Leon I genuinely feel spoiled that you share all this information freely and openly with all of the factory literature and years of experience to back it up thank you from the bottom of my heart and I truly mean THANK YOU!!!!!
When it comes to sharing information on small engine repairs, I am all for it. As I explained to an old duffer that was being all " Up in the air" about doing that, I explained that there are hundreds of thousands of small engines out there that require repair . No one is stealing business from him or anyone else. There is more work than actual guys qualified to even fix these things. Sharing information doesn't affect anything other than guaranteed that the unit you repaired will be done correctly and not come back. I have NEVER had a come back on anything I repaired other than defective parts. To me, taking pride in my work and not seeing it again for the same issue means more than anything. I share information anytime I can.
I have a small engine shop and love your videos. When I'm replacing the spring, I drop a little WD40 on it and it holds it still enough to get the rest of the assembly together.
That's a great tip on the metering lever spring Leon. I've never seen High Tack in a spray can before, I have the bottle & brush High Tack. Gonna get me some spray. A little dab of red grease works wonders to hold that spring in place, saves a lot of cussing. One other thing, Google Pearson Tools, Salt Lake. They make/made a kick ass screw starter that is magic on those tiny carb screws. Well worth the $10 or so. Great video once again Leon, thanks.
You know what I never even thought of before but on those with the gasket under the circuit plate, theoretically the tightness of the screw and the thickness of the gasket could change the needle height (aside from all the other tomfrickery that was occuring). Kind of a poo poo design in that regard all of those with a gasket under circuit plate that the needle is attached to. I like the point you made about crank seals and running rich too, makes perfect sense. I've had a few that I could totally turn in the low screw on as well before. I've also had ones with crappy carburetors AND bad crank seals, ha.
Great video's, All of them. Thanks. Question: I have the same chainsaw as you have in this video. Homelite super 2. I just picked it up in a yard sale, never started it Had to replace the fuel line. I believe I need a Duck Bill Valve or check valve to place in the hole at the top of my fuel tank. I noticed the 2nd hole while I was replacing the fuel line. Do you know the part # needed for this valve, for this unit? and when placing it in does it just go in the hole from the top straight down into the tank? Anything special I should know? Thanks.
Funny thing, I had this very same phenomena on my Partner R22. It would idle even with the low speed needle turned all the way in. And the error was obvious, a crack in the fuel line. The only thing I did was put a new fuel line in, and it is running and adjusting perfectly. So it is possible in this case that the grey fuel line here played a part in it. It was sitting loose, and it might well have been pulling air in that way. It is a bit curious how they can idle with the needle turned all the way in, but is proven in my case that it was an air leak in the fuel line between carb and tank.
Great video! I have one question - towards the end you mention about oil/gas ratios. I have used an Amsoil oil that claims 100:1 capability in any 2-cycle. Your thoughts? And should I expect to have to retune for that mixture? I used the oil on Poulan and Craftsman chain saws without any negative affects (that I could tell), but now I am working on the older Homelite 240 and expect that it might be different.
For running these old saws on fuel today what should the fuel/oil ratio be? I was told back when they came out they wanted 32:1 or even 16:1 because of the low quality oil and now we have really high quality 2 cycle oil today what should the mix be? Another repair guy on CZcams says he runs 45:1
Leon I am a long time viewer of your channel and I just want you to know that I like old chainsaws just like you I have a yoall Poland 3400 counter vibe chaisaw I really like your videos and I support you and your channel very much
Great video Leon and thank you for sharing your knowledge.. I had almost the exact same problem with a Classic 200 but I already new it was not crank seals as I had just installed new seals and bearings along with a carb kit. But that carb was THE MOST finicky little bugger I have ever come across. Took awhile to get it dialed in but it runs good now on a 40:1 mix. I have a question, is there any better fuel line other than Tygon that wont collapse or pinch on the 200 series fuel feed from the tank ?? I have tried several different brands of Tygon but they all seem to pinch off or collapse a bit making that bend to the carb. Thank you again !!
I haven't had a problem with it pinching...what size were you using? The 3/32" X 3/16" is a good match for this size of saw and this a decently thick hose wall.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Yes sir 3/32 X 3/16 is what I am using. It seems to pinch right where the line comes out of the tank and is actually hitting the carburetor and that is why it is pinching off. Not completely pinching off but definitely collapsing the line enough to restrict the flow. If the hole in the fuel tank was about a 1/8 of an inch over to the left that would take care of the problem. I did however find a remedy, I installed a small piece of brass tubing inside of the fuel line right where the line comes out of the tank. This seems to keep the line open fully with no restriction and makes for a really tight seal.
Leon explain again about the metering lever spring by stretching it helps the needle stop leaking.Doesn't that off set the metering lever and the diaphragm.
It applies more pressure to the needle, keeping it seated tighter. Stretching the spring increases pressure on the arm, but doesn't change where it sits. Obviously you can't go too much or the engine pulse wont actuate the diaphragm, but like anything else, I believe these springs fatigue a bit as they get old.
I have a 262xp that idles up when turned sideways or upside down but idles back down when rightside up. I can tell it runs lean when flipped over due to the hanging idle after revving it. Just looking for a second opinion. Im thinking crank seals.
I was wondering that too. Then it came to me. He's using a blood pressure tester bulb. See how he releases the pressure. I have one of those blood pressure cuffs that's getting parted. Great tool.
Hi. I was able to purchase both Duck Bills from my local small engine shop. I have the Homelite Super 2 chainsaw (Double Trigger Style). The owner (in business at the same location 40 years this year) told me back in the day when this chainsaw was popular he would sell a lot of these Duck Bills, they would just break down over time. He also said he always used the same Duck Bill for Gas or Oil and never had any problems. I'll let you know. For those of you who may not know when you go to replace the Duck Bill in the oil tank you'll notice a small brass fitting inside of the old oil line you are replacing. Do not lose that brass fitting. That fitting goes half way into the new line and the new Duck Bill attaches onto the other half. The fuel Duck Bill just squeezes into the hole near the top of the fuel tank off to the side of the fuel cap (That hole faces to the right of the fuel tank towards the back when facing the body of the chainsaw). The fuel line which is located a bit higher up and is located in front of the fuel cap when in place and facing towards the body of the engine. Duck Bill Part #'s 69451 original, or Steins # 610-345. The owner also showed me how the Husqvarna Duck Bill fit and would work as well. I hope this helped. Leon, you are excellent with all your videos. Please keep them coming. Again, Thanks
I was of course liking the vijayo, but in the back of my mind was this nagging question.. Is he really riding a chicken ? Thanks Leon. Take one for the team.. K
I do not even screw around with second guessing carburetors any more, eather I rebuild them or replace them. After doing carbs for so long now, its automatic for me to just order a rebuild kit or complete carb. I have never had to buy a pressure tester eather. I can usually blow into an inverted carb and hear the leak. The guy that trained me told me he has never used a leak down tool. Old school. I remember on the old 8hp Briggs and stratton engines on snow blowers, the base of the carburetor would warp. We got into the habit of eather using a thicker gasket material( as in make your own) or add two gaskets. Briggs recommended replacing the warped unit but as time went on, they were no longer available. I know on snowmobiles, a lean condition results from bearing seal issues, wouldnt that be the same result on any engine? Honestly I have never heard of tilting an engine causing a problem. My thought was a float pin being worn. No float in that. Chain saws can be picky as hell as far as what works and what doesn't. Weed wackers, leaf blowers all can be picky to work on. I fix them all. Very seldom have I had one not work out.
HDC are my enemy, well compared to the SDC. As far as his settings go even if he was using the same fuel mix as you tuned it at we both know any significant change in altitude (not sure of his vs yours) is going to require a re-tune. Heck I re-tune for temp as well since it may only be around low/mid 60's or so in the summer when I start and by mid day it be in the low/mid 90's.
Leon I genuinely feel spoiled that you share all this information freely and openly with all of the factory literature and years of experience to back it up thank you from the bottom of my heart and I truly mean THANK YOU!!!!!
You are welcome!
When it comes to sharing information on small engine repairs, I am all for it. As I explained to an old duffer that was being all " Up in the air" about doing that, I explained that there are hundreds of thousands of small engines out there that require repair . No one is stealing business from him or anyone else. There is more work than actual guys qualified to even fix these things. Sharing information doesn't affect anything other than guaranteed that the unit you repaired will be done correctly and not come back. I have NEVER had a come back on anything I repaired other than defective parts. To me, taking pride in my work and not seeing it again for the same issue means more than anything. I share information anytime I can.
I have a small engine shop and love your videos. When I'm replacing the spring, I drop a little WD40 on it and it holds it still enough to get the rest of the assembly together.
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
That's a great tip on the metering lever spring Leon. I've never seen High Tack in a spray can before, I have the bottle & brush High Tack. Gonna get me some spray. A little dab of red grease works wonders to hold that spring in place, saves a lot of cussing. One other thing, Google Pearson Tools, Salt Lake. They make/made a kick ass screw starter that is magic on those tiny carb screws. Well worth the $10 or so.
Great video once again Leon, thanks.
Great chain saw mechanic!!
Good video I have one that I don’t know where I got but it’s been sitting for at least 20 year now I will state working on it thanks
You know what I never even thought of before but on those with the gasket under the circuit plate, theoretically the tightness of the screw and the thickness of the gasket could change the needle height (aside from all the other tomfrickery that was occuring). Kind of a poo poo design in that regard all of those with a gasket under circuit plate that the needle is attached to. I like the point you made about crank seals and running rich too, makes perfect sense. I've had a few that I could totally turn in the low screw on as well before. I've also had ones with crappy carburetors AND bad crank seals, ha.
Great video's, All of them. Thanks. Question: I have the same chainsaw as you have in this video. Homelite super 2. I just picked it up in a yard sale, never started it Had to replace the fuel line. I believe I need a Duck Bill Valve or check valve to place in the hole at the top of my fuel tank. I noticed the 2nd hole while I was replacing the fuel line. Do you know the part # needed for this valve, for this unit? and when placing it in does it just go in the hole from the top straight down into the tank? Anything special I should know? Thanks.
Funny thing, I had this very same phenomena on my Partner R22. It would idle even with the low speed needle turned all the way in. And the error was obvious, a crack in the fuel line. The only thing I did was put a new fuel line in, and it is running and adjusting perfectly.
So it is possible in this case that the grey fuel line here played a part in it. It was sitting loose, and it might well have been pulling air in that way.
It is a bit curious how they can idle with the needle turned all the way in, but is proven in my case that it was an air leak in the fuel line between carb and tank.
Solid video
Great video! I have one question - towards the end you mention about oil/gas ratios. I have used an Amsoil oil that claims 100:1 capability in any 2-cycle. Your thoughts? And should I expect to have to retune for that mixture? I used the oil on Poulan and Craftsman chain saws without any negative affects (that I could tell), but now I am working on the older Homelite 240 and expect that it might be different.
For running these old saws on fuel today what should the fuel/oil ratio be? I was told back when they came out they wanted 32:1 or even 16:1 because of the low quality oil and now we have really high quality 2 cycle oil today what should the mix be? Another repair guy on CZcams says he runs 45:1
Leon I am a long time viewer of your channel and I just want you to know that I like old chainsaws just like you I have a yoall Poland 3400 counter vibe chaisaw I really like your videos and I support you and your channel very much
Lol I didn’t know durex made bar oil. I guess they know a thing or two about wood lol
Wrong Durex!
Where do you get a carburetor pressure tester.
Great video Leon and thank you for sharing your knowledge.. I had almost the exact same problem with a Classic 200 but I already new it was not crank seals as I had just installed new seals and bearings along with a carb kit. But that carb was THE MOST finicky little bugger I have ever come across. Took awhile to get it dialed in but it runs good now on a 40:1 mix. I have a question, is there any better fuel line other than Tygon that wont collapse or pinch on the 200 series fuel feed from the tank ?? I have tried several different brands of Tygon but they all seem to pinch off or collapse a bit making that bend to the carb. Thank you again !!
I haven't had a problem with it pinching...what size were you using? The 3/32" X 3/16" is a good match for this size of saw and this a decently thick hose wall.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Yes sir 3/32 X 3/16 is what I am using. It seems to pinch right where the line comes out of the tank and is actually hitting the carburetor and that is why it is pinching off. Not completely pinching off but definitely collapsing the line enough to restrict the flow. If the hole in the fuel tank was about a 1/8 of an inch over to the left that would take care of the problem. I did however find a remedy, I installed a small piece of brass tubing inside of the fuel line right where the line comes out of the tank. This seems to keep the line open fully with no restriction and makes for a really tight seal.
Leon explain again about the metering lever spring by stretching it helps the needle stop leaking.Doesn't that off set the metering lever and the diaphragm.
It applies more pressure to the needle, keeping it seated tighter. Stretching the spring increases pressure on the arm, but doesn't change where it sits. Obviously you can't go too much or the engine pulse wont actuate the diaphragm, but like anything else, I believe these springs fatigue a bit as they get old.
Hi. Can you please tell me where I can find parts for the Homelite XL. I need a membrane on the carburetor.
Please does anyone know where to get one of those bulbs to pressure test?? Leon....????
I have a 262xp that idles up when turned sideways or upside down but idles back down when rightside up. I can tell it runs lean when flipped over due to the hanging idle after revving it. Just looking for a second opinion. Im thinking crank seals.
Where did you get your bulb pump for your pressure tester?
I was wondering that too. Then it came to me. He's using a blood pressure tester bulb. See how he releases the pressure.
I have one of those blood pressure cuffs that's getting parted. Great tool.
I removed the engine mounting bolts on a homelite ranger not knowing they also held the crankcase together.... Oops!
Hi. I was able to purchase both Duck Bills from my local small engine shop. I have the Homelite Super 2 chainsaw (Double Trigger Style). The owner (in business at the same location 40 years this year) told me back in the day when this chainsaw was popular he would sell a lot of these Duck Bills, they would just break down over time. He also said he always used the same Duck Bill for Gas or Oil and never had any problems. I'll let you know. For those of you who may not know when you go to replace the Duck Bill in the oil tank you'll notice a small brass fitting inside of the old oil line you are replacing. Do not lose that brass fitting. That fitting goes half way into the new line and the new Duck Bill attaches onto the other half. The fuel Duck Bill just squeezes into the hole near the top of the fuel tank off to the side of the fuel cap (That hole faces to the right of the fuel tank towards the back when facing the body of the chainsaw). The fuel line which is located a bit higher up and is located in front of the fuel cap when in place and facing towards the body of the engine. Duck Bill Part #'s 69451 original, or Steins # 610-345. The owner also showed me how the Husqvarna Duck Bill fit and would work as well. I hope this helped. Leon, you are excellent with all your videos. Please keep them coming. Again, Thanks
I was of course liking the vijayo, but in the back of my mind was this nagging question.. Is he really riding a chicken ? Thanks Leon. Take one for the team.. K
I do not even screw around with second guessing carburetors any more, eather I rebuild them or replace them. After doing carbs for so long now, its automatic for me to just order a rebuild kit or complete carb. I have never had to buy a pressure tester eather. I can usually blow into an inverted carb and hear the leak. The guy that trained me told me he has never used a leak down tool. Old school. I remember on the old 8hp Briggs and stratton engines on snow blowers, the base of the carburetor would warp. We got into the habit of eather using a thicker gasket material( as in make your own) or add two gaskets. Briggs recommended replacing the warped unit but as time went on, they were no longer available. I know on snowmobiles, a lean condition results from bearing seal issues, wouldnt that be the same result on any engine? Honestly I have never heard of tilting an engine causing a problem. My thought was a float pin being worn. No float in that. Chain saws can be picky as hell as far as what works and what doesn't. Weed wackers, leaf blowers all can be picky to work on. I fix them all. Very seldom have I had one not work out.
HDC are my enemy, well compared to the SDC. As far as his settings go even if he was using the same fuel mix as you tuned it at we both know any significant change in altitude (not sure of his vs yours) is going to require a re-tune. Heck I re-tune for temp as well since it may only be around low/mid 60's or so in the summer when I start and by mid day it be in the low/mid 90's.
Yep, I face the same thing here. We easily have 40 degree swings in the Rogue Valley.