I Rebuilt My Carburetor And My Chainsaw Still Won't Run! What Do I Do Now?
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- Has this happened to you? There's other things that can go wrong in a carburetor or with the other components on the chainsaw. I talk about some of the more common problems and offer some advice if you're chasing a gremlin down!
Thanks Leon. Your videos are always informative and to the point. They have helped in many ways. This is a real good one!
the most in depth video I ever seen in repairs, Thank you ever so much for this total carb video
Great in depth video. Taught me a thing or two for sure.
I keep a couple of different kinds of gasket material around to make new ones if the old gasket is damaged. It can be a little tedious depending on the design, but they cost next to nothing and you can get great results with an exacto knife and a hole punch set. And like anything else, the more you do the more efficient you become.
Thank you for taking the time to do video's like this.
Did
Excellent information!
I have always wondered about the the z pattern gasket,
Thank you!
Hey Leon , just want to say a big thanks for having the Promac 700 piston in stock. You are a life saver. Hopefully I can save another old saw. I know on the P38/P41 saws the reed blocks crack and leak air. My p41 won't run without the choke on, the crack is so small you would think its fixable but no. The moment I spray brake clean around the block she dies.
Excellent video. I learned at least 6 new things. Thank you very much.
Best chainsaw carb video ever! Thanks.
Great info vid Leon. Thx for sharing.
I restored a saw just like this there great. Thanks for the cylinder and piston Leon :)
Outstanding in depth explanation🎉. Thank you!
This is excellent information. I've added it to one of my lists for future reference. Thank you. Glad I'm subscribed.
I download them.
You see that brass colored valve inset in the carb? On Echo 500 VLs there's a valve under that. You have to pull it out w/o damaging it too much. The same carb was used on the 500EVLs also with 1 exception. The hi-speed screw was only backed out about 1/8 turn which sometimes caused the saw to run lean. If you pull that valve, replace the disk below it, it'll run far better. You can make the disk out of any extra flexible diaphragm then put the brass piece back. Make sure you turn that screw out at least 1 turn.
Excellent video!
Thankyou for your detailed explanation on rebuilding these carburetors! I myself rebuilt an almost exact carburetor out of my Stihl 015l and after I got done I could not get it to run. After I found your video I realized that I should have replace the screens. I didn't think I needed to because they looked pretty clean from what I could tell so I figured I would leave them in there. When I watched your video and decided to replace them I pulled the larger one out and believe it or not there was another one down deeper that was really dirty and shouldn't have been there. I put the new screens in and I checked the level on the needle and put it all back together. It now runs like a champ!!! I really appreciate you taking the time to thoroughly explain some of the situations that we could get ourselves into. I'm definitely subscribing thanks again.
One Tillotson carb I pulled apart including the welsh plugs. Someone had put the inlet screen under the bigger welsh plug!
I rebuilt the carb on an older B&S lawnmower this spring. There is a pump spring with a smooth ring that covers one end of the spring and it was in the carb upside down lol The rough end of the spring was against the diaphragm and the smooth ring that was supposed to cover that, was on the bottom against the carb body, and was stuck there too. Curiously, turning it the correct way around, actually improved the performance slightly lol
Very nice video.Thumbs up!
I can't thank you enough for explaining how those circuit plate gaskets work.
Great video
Hey thanks for the awesome video, learned something new today. By the way you have to be related to Nick Offerman your voice is almost identical.
Thank you
Knocking main jet out.
I got it now.
Thanks
I am having issues with fuel delivery on my H365 sp. I am confident that there are no crankcase vacuum/pressure leaks...hence the pulse line to carb is creating both vacuum and pressure to activate/pulse the diaphragm
New fuel/pulse lines, cleaned fuel filter, vents on tank / cap function well
New carb kit.. thoroughly cleaned. Either I am overlooking something...carb kit is Oregon but matches old one And I have studied and examined that carb..air and fuel flows...gaskets... you pointed out that little check valve and needle height...I need to check these
Symptom is no fuel on needle side of diaphragm...hence NO start.
Better re-check the compression...also
Ausome video
Walbro call them "dependent" and "independent" circuits.
From the manual:
Fuel circuits
Walbro's patented circuit plate permits easy repair by eliminating welch plugs. It also provides TWO types of fuel circuits, giving this carburetor great flexibility in achieving precise calibration for each of many different engines.
Dependent
This schematic shows the Low Speed Circuit getting its fuel from the High Speed Circuit. (Using the Z type gasket)
Independent
As shown in this schematic. In some HDC carburetors, the High Speed and Low Speed Circuits both take fuel directly from the Metering Chamber.
Great points! Keep throwing those little factoids at us, e.g., leak in crankshaft seals doesn't cause no-start situation, spark should jump around ¼", etc.
I'm trying to learn more about the check valves in the diaphragm area. I have a WeedEater fx26sce with the 577135902 carburetor and apparently it has two check valves in the diaphragm area. One has a little hole in its top. The other is serviceable and can be tapped out into the carb throat. That part # on mine is A007188.
Can someone please tell me what these two check valves do? How do they function and what's their purpose?
Thank s
How many times that I have experienced this I don’t care to remember. I put a new carb on a Stihl 021 that I am restoring. I put a new fuel and impulse line and still would not run, but I finally got the spark plug wet. Then, I figured it had other problems, which it did - the rings on the piston were slap worn out and the connecting rods roller bearings were sitting in the crankcase. The seals looked like crap and would probably not stop a heavy dew let alone 7# primary compression pressure. The 021 will be getting a new cylinder, piston, rings, seals, oem crank, etc. the connecting rods roller bearings may have come out when I removed the flywheel or opened the crankcase. I could put them back in the rod but if they are as worn as the rest of the engine - it needs a new crank, which it is getting.
You mentioned that the inlet screen can have filter material in it, as well as sawdust. I have been asking around if anyone knew what this blond or white muck is in the inlet screens. This spring I made the mistake of using some regular gas and most of my engines I used got these screens plugged up.
I will assume that better gas with less alcohol will not cause as much deterioration of the tank fuel filters. I was wondering if this muck came from deterioration of the filter, gas line, carb body, of if it comes out of the gas itself. Soooooo......
Why is stuff like sawdust getting past the gas filter? Cheap filter? Are there decent priced tank filters that don't degrade like that, and do a proper job of filtering? I just ordered a pack of filters, likely from China. I selected ones that at least look decent...but maybe they will dissolve in gas ;-( I checked to see what my local hardware stores sell. Apparently they only sell the cheapest worse ones, according to some reviews. It is like they are trying to destroy small engines. The OEM filters are way over priced, IMO. I hope I didn't purchase crap; arriving Monday.
One online mechanic said that the purpose of the inlet screen was just in case the filter came off, or the gas line got a hole. I wrote to say that my screens were getting shit in them and it had nothing to do with a filter coming off nor from gas line holes.
You are the first person I have heard give any explanation of where this muck may come from.
Just sent you an email about my two XL1 saws and I know I didn't check or know about the circuit plate gasket types. That's definitely were I'm going to look. One saw is spitting a bit if fuel, runs but only with the idle screw turned all the way in, with no low speed jet tuning option. The other starts but won't idle and bogs out right away. I was leaning towards seals just like you say in the video but now I'm thinking I have the wrong circuit gasket in both saws. Going to check that out for sure on both saws. I'm thinking they need to be interchanged with each other. One saw is a 1979 the other a 1981. Never even noticed the circuit plate if there are the same or different but I will check it out as well. I'll let you know what I find out between the two years, if there is or not. Great video thanks. TC Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
Ok, so one saw had the right circuit gasket and one did not. Now both XL1's are running but will not tune or idle properly so it has to be seals. I have gone through everything else. Reeds are all good, fuel lines, filters, carb kits, check valves, new gaskets. Only thing left is seals on both saws. So if anyone has a connection for seals for a 1979 and 1981 Homelite XL1 chainsaw let me know. Thanks in advance.
Hey Leon, I have a pineneer 1074 can the recoil spring for the pull cord be replace and where can I get the parts from and how can I get the carburetor kit...thank you
Those two circuit plate gaskets are not the same. I try to match up the old gasket
. I lay the ones one on top of the old gasket and use the one which is an exact match. I sometimes go to the IPL for the saw I am working on and try to match it up that way.
Where can I get a carb to manifold gasket for a Walbro WT 347. I for the life of me can't track one down. Tried making one but not sure it's giving me issues. Appreciate your help.
I'm here cause my poulan 306a carb is giving me issues. It's got fuel, it's getting fuel and it has spark. She just don't like to fire without full throttle or to idle. Looks like I have to fight the carb and cavity again to take it all apart and all.
Sounds like a problem I ran into rebuilding a carb on a Homelite XL2.
I swear I do not have the patience for these, not sure how you do it
The only thing I would like to add with the Tillotson carburettor is the plastic fuel inlet turret if they crack and they start sucking air. And those turrets are hard to find. Cheers everyone
Question Leon XL2 walbro carb is missing high jet screw picked this saw up for 5 bucks what’s the odds of replacing with a another style carburetor any help
do you know if there is a carburator that will replace a walbro hdc17 carburator on a stihl 015av chainsaw
Don't do what I did and mistakenly grab the diesel thinking it's petrol 😬
Question, does the check valve method work for hdb carb as well? I am certainly no expert on these carbs. Viewed some internet posts stating it is a capillary action valve on this type.
Thank you sir.
Thank you Feller, for this information, I have been wondering why this carb does’t accept ordinally check valve method.
my chainsaw has a rebuilt carb and it starts on the choke and dies and then i take it off choke and it starts and dies
its a ignored item that catches a lot of people by surprise , if your machine has a spark arrestor screen, and it's plugged with carbon all the carburetor troubleshooting in the world won't fix that issue . always check for restricted exhaust if its equipped with one .
I have too many videos to go thru but are you the guy who checks check valves w a piece of hose/tubing? If so let me know and i have something you might be interested in. If you are ill give you my email and we will go from there.
PB blaster or wd40 .
Buy a new one