Thank you so much! It worked. We disconnected the battery yesterday for a few minutes to check it in another car and when we put it back in the Yukon the air conditioning was blowing from the vent to defrost. Back and forth. But this reset fixed it. Thank you so much.
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel it went back to blowing out the defrost then the floor. So we did it again and it worked but only for a short time. What do you Suggest?
Thank’s So Much Fran, I’m so glad it worked and saved you time and money😊 I hope you’ll click here to support us by joining our Channel: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin You’ll get Live Appliance help when ever you need it. It’s just $5.00
Thank’s So Much Darian, I’m so glad it worked and saved you time and money😊 I hope you’ll click here to support us by joining our Channel: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin You’ll get Live Appliance help when ever you need it. It’s just $5.00
Hey my man I want to thank you because I just performed this on my 2004 GMC Yukon I fixed everything and you come out with this and it worked like a charm thank you
Thank’s So Much Grant, I’m so glad it worked and saved you time and money😊 I hope you’ll click here to support us by joining our Channel: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin You’ll get Live Appliance help when ever you need it. It’s just $5.00
Thank you so much for the video you are a lifesaver I have a 2008 Yukon denali I was having the same issue you saved me a lot of money lol thanks for the video again
2005 GMC Yukon XL 1500 SLT here - front auto HVAC system with separate driver and passenger temp control knobs and LCD numbers to display the selected temperature; also has rear HVAC system with control knobs above the rearview mirror, but no LCD to show the selected temperature. Our issue seems a little different, but wondering if this MIGHT work. Our issue is only with the front system that I know of: we can only have air blowing that is 60° or 90°, but nothing in between (no matter what number is showing on the driver or passenger control knobs). This is especially annoying in the winter when it is cold outside, but 90° air is frying your feet or your face (even on the lowest fan speed). We do not have any issue with the fan speed control, and the actuator for the output of air location also works fine. It is ONLY the temperature knobs that don't work properly. If I try to adjust it to 72°, it either blows 60° or 90° and will not blow anything in between. (I'm not sure if the rear system has that problem because I never sit back there.) Thoughts? I presume on the front system that is split for driver and passenger, there must be two temperature actuators in order to have different temperatures for the driver and passenger. Is it likely that they both died at the same time, or could this be some type of computer/programming issue? This used to be our "spare" vehicle until my Toyota Sequoia's engine got crashed during a timing belt replacement 😢, so it is now my daily driver for almost a year now.
I tried it twice. My 2001 Yukon only has frthvac and rerhvac both 30 amps. Problem same minimal air comes out of every vent. no a/c and door doesnt change to front , defost ect. Now what?
Will this work if the controls don’t do anything? I went to turn the heater on today in my 05 yukon and nothing turns on. No air nothing. None of the controls do anything. This happened out of nowhere
2006 GMC Yukon that my wife drives gets cold on drivers side but not passenger side. A/C in the rear doesn’t work at all, except occasionally we will hit a bump and it will come on. Won’t come back on after the engine has been turned off. This remedy didn’t work. I only heard one actuator recalibrating. I suppose I need new actuators?
Unfortunately, I have no HVAC/ECAS fuse. There’s an “RR HVAC” fuse (car has dual Aircon) and I there’s an “A/C” (which is a 10 Amp). Ideas? My Yukon is a 2001.
Lol instead of paying 5$ I am having the same problem with my 2001 and I just barely found another fuse box that had an hvac 1 fuse 10amp. Open your drivers door and in the side of the dash there's a fuse panel pull it off and try pulling that fuse. Unfortunately it didn't work for mine but maybe yours it will.
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please see this message, i did the whole process you showed in your video, after i turned it off again for 30-45 seconds, i tried turning it on again and my truck was fully dead and hit the switch again, and truck would turn on but would die out right when it was about to turn on. any solutions?
Good hint, right in time when A/C s better work fine again! The so called smart cars of the recent decades, can really be dumb! or turn their owner even dumber... I have recently got an electrical problem after a weak battery made me to jump the truck, and now my Escalade is just killing me with a dark dash cluster... Worst, seems no one has a clue about this problem and nothing on YT...
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel No Scott. I checked all the fuses. Twice. Not a blown one. I did place this issue on Cadillac forum and got one good respond only from an experienced user that let me share here. But before that: "What my problem is"! Due to the fact that truck is parked often for a long period of time, I have had to jump it, typically without any issues on numerous occasions. Even the clock has mostly survived the low drain of battery with no need to adjust mostly. Then comes one attempt recently, that after jumping, I lost all the backlight in cluster panel (Not even being able to see what gear position car is in!), only the four needles in cluster panel (Speedometer, RAM, Gass, Oil) are flashing blue and off, constantly at the constant rate of 1 sec. No other light in cluster. But then the central consul light is all fine and I can see radio, AC etc in centre console. Now the solution that worked initially, was to remove the fuse #46 (IPC or Instrument Cluster Panel fuse) from engine compartment box (There are more than one fuse boxes in this car). Then turn the engine on, (No flashing blue in cluster - as the fuse is out). Then carefully and as engine is running, puting the fuse back. Yes it worked first and I got my cluster backlight back. However and to my dumbness, when I let the car's battery to drain one more time and after the next jump, again same problem. Only this time nothing works as I did the same manure multiple times, even after disconnecting the battery for overnight and trying all on fresh electrical reset... with no avail. Someone has suggested to change the cluster panel! but I'm pretty sure something must only be resetted BUT what! That is what killing me! I have not given up yet to find the answer as it seems to be a common problem with this model truck (I saw more people putting up a clip of this problem here on YT but not Solved yet), only non has been acknowledge, anywhere. You're smart. Please look into it and tell me if you can find any remedy. Thanks.
I’ll check it out Sam. I wonder if the Chevy Tahoe Forums and The GMC Yukon Forums might have a way to solve it also since their electrical is so similar to Cadillac. It Sounds Like The same circuit that the fuse number 46 is linked to is responsible for the current problem. Might be good to spray some electrical cleaner on the female fuse contacts👍I Hope That You Can Become A Member of Our Channel😊👍 Here’s a Membership Link: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
@@ryanwatson2136 After a series of nightmares found the reason. BTW the official name of my problem is "Blinking blue four-needle in speed cluster and no other light". It was a bad cluster. I had to find one that matches mine (Platinum edition) and replace it. Seems like a very common problem with this age Cadillacs (Escalades of 2007-2015) and still there is no single good YT or Cadillac forum review on this topic!
You help me alot I've done this during work lunch break thank you so much
Wow,
Very impressive 👍😊
I appreciate how you went back over the steps in the end.
Thanks Dana❤️👍😊
Thank you so much! It worked. We disconnected the battery yesterday for a few minutes to check it in another car and when we put it back in the Yukon the air conditioning was blowing from the vent to defrost. Back and forth. But this reset fixed it. Thank you so much.
Awesome, thanks Susan👍😊
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel it went back to blowing out the defrost then the floor. So we did it again and it worked but only for a short time. What do you Suggest?
It’s a 2002 GMC Yukon
Awesome! Worked on my Yukon. Thank you
Glad it helped!😊👍
Thanks it’s working perfectly on my Yukon 2005 like you said
Thank’s So Much Fran, I’m so glad it worked and saved you time and money😊 I hope you’ll click here to support us by joining our Channel: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
You’ll get Live Appliance help when ever you need it.
It’s just $5.00
Thanks a lot you helped me out of a all day problem‼️ Appreciate your help...
Happy to help
Thank you so much, worked for me! 2006 GMC Yukon 2500.
Thank’s So Much Darian, I’m so glad it worked and saved you time and money😊 I hope you’ll click here to support us by joining our Channel: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
You’ll get Live Appliance help when ever you need it.
It’s just $5.00
Great! worked and I have been living with a flukey system for 2 winters because estimate to fix was $600!
Nice job Walt👍
Thanks works like charm
Awesome,
Thanks James 😊
Hey my man I want to thank you because I just performed this on my 2004 GMC Yukon I fixed everything and you come out with this and it worked like a charm thank you
You’re very welcome 👍😊
Worked perfectly on a 2013 Yukon Denali
Thank’s So Much Grant, I’m so glad it worked and saved you time and money😊 I hope you’ll click here to support us by joining our Channel: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
You’ll get Live Appliance help when ever you need it.
It’s just $5.00
I have warm air coming out of same vehicle should I try?
I would it don’t take long to try
Reset worked for driver side AC. 2012 Yukon. Thank you!
You’re very welcome John😊
nice presentation, your explanation was great and simple
Thanks so much😊
Thanks saved my husband! He had heat on his side and mine had the ac😂😂😂
We had the same thing in our 2004 Yukon. Now we’re good😊
Thank you so much for the video you are a lifesaver I have a 2008 Yukon denali I was having the same issue you saved me a lot of money lol thanks for the video again
Awesome News Joe👍😊
Worked perfectly thank you for the video sir
You’re very welcome 😊👍
Hmmm i dunno. You may just have to drive it into a ravine with a full tank of petrol…. it’s the only way to be sure!
2005 GMC Yukon XL 1500 SLT here - front auto HVAC system with separate driver and passenger temp control knobs and LCD numbers to display the selected temperature; also has rear HVAC system with control knobs above the rearview mirror, but no LCD to show the selected temperature.
Our issue seems a little different, but wondering if this MIGHT work. Our issue is only with the front system that I know of: we can only have air blowing that is 60° or 90°, but nothing in between (no matter what number is showing on the driver or passenger control knobs). This is especially annoying in the winter when it is cold outside, but 90° air is frying your feet or your face (even on the lowest fan speed). We do not have any issue with the fan speed control, and the actuator for the output of air location also works fine. It is ONLY the temperature knobs that don't work properly. If I try to adjust it to 72°, it either blows 60° or 90° and will not blow anything in between. (I'm not sure if the rear system has that problem because I never sit back there.)
Thoughts? I presume on the front system that is split for driver and passenger, there must be two temperature actuators in order to have different temperatures for the driver and passenger. Is it likely that they both died at the same time, or could this be some type of computer/programming issue? This used to be our "spare" vehicle until my Toyota Sequoia's engine got crashed during a timing belt replacement 😢, so it is now my daily driver for almost a year now.
I think it will help after you do the reset.
Does this work on a Buick enclave 2011? I changed my alternator and battery now my ac won't blow cold. Is why I ask..
I think you’re right.
It needs to be reset👍
I tried it twice. My 2001 Yukon only has frthvac and rerhvac both 30 amps. Problem same minimal air comes out of every vent. no a/c and door doesnt change to front , defost ect.
Now what?
Same here
Will this work if the controls don’t do anything? I went to turn the heater on today in my 05 yukon and nothing turns on. No air nothing. None of the controls do anything. This happened out of nowhere
Can you try replacing that fuse shown in the video?
I think the fuse blew.
And do the fan need to be on a certain speed or should it be off?
Any speed is ok👍
2006 GMC Yukon that my wife drives gets cold on drivers side but not passenger side. A/C in the rear doesn’t work at all, except occasionally we will hit a bump and it will come on. Won’t come back on after the engine has been turned off.
This remedy didn’t work. I only heard one actuator recalibrating.
I suppose I need new actuators?
I think you’re right. New actuators.
We just dropped a motor in this vehicle I added a can to the system will this help my issue
I think it will help the HVAC system to work like new again👍
Will, this work on a 2018 GMC Yukon XL
I think it will work👍
What’s the correct fuse to pull for 2001 gmc Yukon?
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Hi Susan,
How long does the cure last?
Maybe 20-30 min maybe.
Hi Susan, I would replace that step motor. It’s worn out and the reset will no longer control it.
Thank you!
You’re welcome😊
Unfortunately, I have no HVAC/ECAS fuse. There’s an “RR HVAC” fuse (car has dual Aircon) and I there’s an “A/C” (which is a 10 Amp). Ideas? My Yukon is a 2001.
I would try the A/C👍
Lol instead of paying 5$ I am having the same problem with my 2001 and I just barely found another fuse box that had an hvac 1 fuse 10amp. Open your drivers door and in the side of the dash there's a fuse panel pull it off and try pulling that fuse. Unfortunately it didn't work for mine but maybe yours it will.
Changed both AC actuators and repeated the calibration and still have warm air on my passenger side and cool air on my driver side. 👎
Great Question Brandon👍 Click Here to Get Live Expert Help From Me For Just $5.00: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
We’ll Get It Fixed 👍
does this work for a 2018 Yukon?
I think so but I believe it’s a different fuse.
It should be labeled HVAC
How long does it last for before it starts blowing hot air again? Will it start doing it again when you turn the car off?
Maybe
please see this message, i did the whole process you showed in your video, after i turned it off again for 30-45 seconds, i tried turning it on again and my truck was fully dead and hit the switch again, and truck would turn on but would die out right when it was about to turn on. any solutions?
I think you pulled the fuse for the fuel pump by accident.
Will this work on a 03 GMC Yukon with auto rear too
It will😊
does this work for a 2015 gmc yukon?
Should work the same Joseph👍
This didn't reset for me in a 2015 GMC Yukon. Temp never resets to 74, nor do I hear any actuator recalibration.
Great video, but it didn’t work for me. 2003 Gmc Yukon
What does it mean if the air conditioner makes a clicking sound
The step motor that controls the coil air is moving the air door too far and it’s clicking.
Resetting the HVAC system should fix it👍
2008 gmc yukon ... everything about my car is different i tried to pull a fuse but nothing happened
Tristan,
Can you disconnect the negative terminal from the battery instead of pulling the fuse, but keep everything else the same?
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel I'll try that when I get home
Please let us know how it goes.
It reset but it didn't work .. I may need a recharge
Side note what head unit do you have that you could program the GMC welcome screen and how did ya do it
It’s a PYLE PLBNB78i
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel easy to program the screen?
It’s pretty easy to do👍
It is easy👍
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel nice I've seen some where ya got to do all these codes and weird programming put it on a USB stick and so on
If this doesn’t work what would you suggest to try next?
Can you send that same question to my email at: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
Good hint, right in time when A/C s better work fine again!
The so called smart cars of the recent decades, can really be dumb! or turn their owner even dumber... I have recently got an electrical problem after a weak battery made me to jump the truck, and now my Escalade is just killing me with a dark dash cluster... Worst, seems no one has a clue about this problem and nothing on YT...
Almost sounds like a popped fuse👍
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel No Scott. I checked all the fuses. Twice. Not a blown one.
I did place this issue on Cadillac forum and got one good respond only from an experienced user that let me share here. But before that: "What my problem is"! Due to the fact that truck is parked often for a long period of time, I have had to jump it, typically without any issues on numerous occasions. Even the clock has mostly survived the low drain of battery with no need to adjust mostly. Then comes one attempt recently, that after jumping, I lost all the backlight in cluster panel (Not even being able to see what gear position car is in!), only the four needles in cluster panel (Speedometer, RAM, Gass, Oil) are flashing blue and off, constantly at the constant rate of 1 sec. No other light in cluster. But then the central consul light is all fine and I can see radio, AC etc in centre console.
Now the solution that worked initially, was to remove the fuse #46 (IPC or Instrument Cluster Panel fuse) from engine compartment box (There are more than one fuse boxes in this car). Then turn the engine on, (No flashing blue in cluster - as the fuse is out). Then carefully and as engine is running, puting the fuse back. Yes it worked first and I got my cluster backlight back. However and to my dumbness, when I let the car's battery to drain one more time and after the next jump, again same problem. Only this time nothing works as I did the same manure multiple times, even after disconnecting the battery for overnight and trying all on fresh electrical reset... with no avail. Someone has suggested to change the cluster panel! but I'm pretty sure something must only be resetted BUT what! That is what killing me! I have not given up yet to find the answer as it seems to be a common problem with this model truck (I saw more people putting up a clip of this problem here on YT but not Solved yet), only non has been acknowledge, anywhere.
You're smart. Please look into it and tell me if you can find any remedy. Thanks.
I’ll check it out Sam. I wonder if the Chevy Tahoe Forums and The GMC Yukon Forums might have a way to solve it also since their electrical is so similar to Cadillac.
It Sounds Like The same circuit that the fuse number 46 is linked to is responsible for the current problem. Might be good to spray some electrical cleaner on the female fuse contacts👍I Hope That You Can Become A Member of Our Channel😊👍
Here’s a Membership Link: czcams.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
Plug a obd up it will light up bad ground
@@ryanwatson2136 After a series of nightmares found the reason. BTW the official name of my problem is "Blinking blue four-needle in speed cluster and no other light".
It was a bad cluster. I had to find one that matches mine (Platinum edition) and replace it. Seems like a very common problem with this age Cadillacs (Escalades of 2007-2015) and still there is no single good YT or Cadillac forum review on this topic!
Your correct about that one that is hard to get.
You have to take the whole dash apart.
The recalibration will probably fix it👍
Battery quicker