Very clear and understandable instructions. A great job explaining and demonstrating the installation. Curt had no installation videos for their equivalent hitch. This video sold me on B&W, and mine is coming in 3 days from now!
Thank you for the support! We're glad our video was helpful in your decision. Should you have any additional questions before, during, or after the install, please feel free to reach out to our team at 800.248.6564 (M-F, 8am-5pm cst). We're always happy to help.
@@GrouseHiker Glad to answer this for you! Each bolted connection is designed to create and maintain a specified clamping force between the parts. Due to the complexity between the hitch and the bed, and the need for adjustment, slotted holes are used in many of our parts. Flat washers allow the bolted connections to spread the clamping force over slotted areas or larger holes.
My recommendation to anyone DIY installing, watch this video and lay out the parts on the floor following along, dry fitting bolts, etc. That way you aren't trying to hold up heavy pieces and figure out what direction things go. You'll save so much sanity and many sore muscles, even though it'll take longer to get started installing. Also, I just used a wood 2x4 across the bed and a ratcheting tie down strap to hold up the hitch flush to the bed, just set the hitch in the "locked position" and hook onto the bar inside the hitch.
This video was helpful with installation because the paper instructions aren't always clear and we lost a few hours trying to decipher the paper before referencing this video. In all, the install took way longer than expected, over 10 hours. Without having a lift, getting access to the areas can be awkward on your back. Without having an air or battery torque gun that you can set to a specific torque value, using a torque wrench in those awkward spaces is way worse due to the big rear end, driveshaft, exhaust and other things in the way. I was doing some crazy body contortions to get the 110 and 150 ft lbs of force. It would have been worth it to get the Reese factory style and just remove the bed, or pay someone to install. 2023 crew cab Long bed 350 with the 7.3 and 4.30 gears.
i installed mine 2 weeks ago. I have a lift. If the parts were marked with a peel off sticker, like left front and an arrow, or this side up, it would be very helpful. A $12 hole saw from Amazon made a clean cut in the bed. 2023 F350 6.7 King Ranch CCLB.
Torqueing is DEFINITELY the difficult part of this little project. I'm in the middle of torqueing right now. I bought a set of crows feet with a 15/16 off Amazon, and the jaws flexed so much it wouldn't even turn the 5/8 nut (it was already pretty tight) - returning it tomorrow. I rigged a high-quality open end wrench as a torque adaptor and got 3 of the horizontal 4 1/2" bolts torqued, but the driver's side front one is more difficult due to the ball release bracket. I'm now searching for a higher-quality, 15/16 box-in torque adapter.
I'm a little confused about the "snugging" phase vs the "tightening" phase vs the "torqueing" phase. The basis of this seems to be the torqueing will actually move the parts in relation to one another after they are tightened... I'm not convinced... especially if you interpret "tighten" the way I do. I can see the torqueing phase actually deflecting parts, but not necessarily moving them in shear loading at their contact surfaces. Basically, it seems there should be a "snugging" phase followed by a torqueing phase. So "snugging" would be half compressing the lock washers. Why not go from "snug" to torqueing?
The first steps in the tightening sequence, where bolts are only tightened to the point that the lock washers start to compress, are designed to align the cross members with each other, but not restrict them from moving. This will allow them to shift as needed for proper alignment as the 4 vertical flange bolts are tightened. This is a similar principle to the phases of tightening and the star pattern used when changing a tire on a vehicle. The tightening phases and the star pattern ensure that the wheel is not misaligned due to the first lug nut being tightened too much before the wheel is properly aligned. Like a wheel installation, during the torquing phase of the hitch, we do not expect any of the connections or parts to move. In the torquing step, we are making sure that we have the proper clamping force at each bolted connection.
finally a company that has good tutorial videos. Thanks
Very clear and understandable instructions. A great job explaining and demonstrating the installation. Curt had no installation videos for their equivalent hitch. This video sold me on B&W, and mine is coming in 3 days from now!
Thank you for the support! We're glad our video was helpful in your decision. Should you have any additional questions before, during, or after the install, please feel free to reach out to our team at 800.248.6564 (M-F, 8am-5pm cst). We're always happy to help.
@@BWTrailerHitches it would be good to understand why some bolts get washer and lock washer, some get head washer, etc.
@@GrouseHiker Glad to answer this for you! Each bolted connection is designed to create and maintain a specified clamping force between the parts. Due to the complexity between the hitch and the bed, and the need for adjustment, slotted holes are used in many of our parts. Flat washers allow the bolted connections to spread the clamping force over slotted areas or larger holes.
My recommendation to anyone DIY installing, watch this video and lay out the parts on the floor following along, dry fitting bolts, etc. That way you aren't trying to hold up heavy pieces and figure out what direction things go. You'll save so much sanity and many sore muscles, even though it'll take longer to get started installing. Also, I just used a wood 2x4 across the bed and a ratcheting tie down strap to hold up the hitch flush to the bed, just set the hitch in the "locked position" and hook onto the bar inside the hitch.
very well done instructional video!
Very good and. clear video.
This video was helpful with installation because the paper instructions aren't always clear and we lost a few hours trying to decipher the paper before referencing this video. In all, the install took way longer than expected, over 10 hours. Without having a lift, getting access to the areas can be awkward on your back. Without having an air or battery torque gun that you can set to a specific torque value, using a torque wrench in those awkward spaces is way worse due to the big rear end, driveshaft, exhaust and other things in the way. I was doing some crazy body contortions to get the 110 and 150 ft lbs of force. It would have been worth it to get the Reese factory style and just remove the bed, or pay someone to install. 2023 crew cab Long bed 350 with the 7.3 and 4.30 gears.
i installed mine 2 weeks ago. I have a lift. If the parts were marked with a peel off sticker, like left front and an arrow, or this side up, it would be very helpful. A $12 hole saw from Amazon made a clean cut in the bed. 2023 F350 6.7 King Ranch CCLB.
Torqueing is DEFINITELY the difficult part of this little project. I'm in the middle of torqueing right now. I bought a set of crows feet with a 15/16 off Amazon, and the jaws flexed so much it wouldn't even turn the 5/8 nut (it was already pretty tight) - returning it tomorrow. I rigged a high-quality open end wrench as a torque adaptor and got 3 of the horizontal 4 1/2" bolts torqued, but the driver's side front one is more difficult due to the ball release bracket. I'm now searching for a higher-quality, 15/16 box-in torque adapter.
Update - box-in won't fit over the nut on the front left 5/8 bolt. It's too close to the top plate of the center section.
Take a use a bolt and uss flat washer and ratchet to draw the bushings into the crossmembers
Any recommendation on which toque wrench to use? I’m having a near impossible time fitting my torque wrench in the areas for the 5/8 inch bolts.
We've checked with our install specialists and they've recommended using a Crow's foot style torque wrench for additional clearance.
@@BWTrailerHitchesthank you very much!
I'm a little confused about the "snugging" phase vs the "tightening" phase vs the "torqueing" phase. The basis of this seems to be the torqueing will actually move the parts in relation to one another after they are tightened... I'm not convinced... especially if you interpret "tighten" the way I do. I can see the torqueing phase actually deflecting parts, but not necessarily moving them in shear loading at their contact surfaces. Basically, it seems there should be a "snugging" phase followed by a torqueing phase. So "snugging" would be half compressing the lock washers. Why not go from "snug" to torqueing?
The first steps in the tightening sequence, where bolts are only tightened to the point that the lock washers start to compress, are designed to align the cross members with each other, but not restrict them from moving. This will allow them to shift as needed for proper alignment as the 4 vertical flange bolts are tightened. This is a similar principle to the phases of tightening and the star pattern used when changing a tire on a vehicle. The tightening phases and the star pattern ensure that the wheel is not misaligned due to the first lug nut being tightened too much before the wheel is properly aligned. Like a wheel installation, during the torquing phase of the hitch, we do not expect any of the connections or parts to move. In the torquing step, we are making sure that we have the proper clamping force at each bolted connection.