How does collapsible top hat work? [Jak działa szapoklak?]
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- This short video shows you how collapsible top hats work and explains why they were collapsible. You'll also see a tailcot similar to those which were usually worn with evening top hats.Are you interested in fashion history? Subscribe my channel and leave a comment :)
Jak działa szapoklak? Dlaczego właściwie ten cylinder jest składany i do jakich ubrań był noszony? Trochę o tym w dzisiejszym filmie.
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Katarzyna Andres - Menswear [PL and EN]
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Ever since I saw Captain Picard pop open a top hat in an episode of Star Trek: The Next Generation, I always wondered how it worked. Thanks for showing us!
I'm glad that I solved that riddle for you :)
me too!
@@RSP13 Too funny, I was just watching STNG and when Picard popped that top hat I had to see how it worked. Thank you so much for such a good explanation.
I, too, came here after watching Picard popping his hat open. Worf nearly tore him a new arsehole in the process. I felt compelled to learn about why his hat popped.
I as well. Are we 5 part of the borg?
You speak excellent English. Thank you for showing this information.
Thank you very much :) I do my best for English, hope it will be even better with practice ;)
It is very unusual that with all the shabbiness (wear defects are only visible close up)for many years and owners, it looks very new and beautiful from a distance. So skilfully and conscientiously did things in the old days!
When I bought it I thought it's almost new. And in fact, it may be, but the time gave its sign on it, and that's why the silk ribbon has the signs :)
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
You're welcome :)
I hope to make more of historical costuming videos soon - also in English. I will for sure at least add English subtitles for all the films sooner or later :)
Dla mnie, osoby ciekawskiej z natury, to bardzo dobrze opowiedziane i oczekuję kontynuacji.
Dziękuję bardzo, takie komentarze niesamowicie motywują :) mam nadzieję dodać nowe filmy niedługo 🙂
Eloquently curated in English.....a lovely demonstration...Bravo to YOU!...Nat :)
Thank you :)
Dzięki za poglądową lekcję w materii szapoklacka !
Thank you for the demonstration. I was curious how those worked and why they were used. You answered both questions well.
You are very welcome 🙂 I'm glad that my video satisfied your curiosity ❤️
Subscribed from Brazil!
Thank you for explaining one of life's mysteries.
You're welcome :)
Thank you for the demo.I like your stylish clothes
Wow! That is tremendously cool to see. Thanks for showing it to us.
Surprisingly, these folding hats are very light! ... at size 56, the weight (I specifically measured three different cylindrical hats on the scale)it is no more than 180 grams. This is not a cheap prop for a circus or a magician! ... this was worn by people on the street to the theater and to various ceremonies!... This is very serious. Despite the fact that there is a metal frame. (everything from the amount of shellac inside the edges and top to the size of the thickness of the springs and hoops inside) everything was calculated to the gram. Strong and high-quality steel inside. A real cylinder (folding or regular) is made according to a long-established Canon. What would be comfortable and pleasant to wear on your head. It's always better to buy an antique than a modern fake!... There are workshops where new cylinders are made in compliance with all the rules, but there are very few of them...
Thank you very much for letting me know and sharing this :) You are completely right - we think of top hats as an accesory, but we often forget that they were widely used :) I tried to find the new top hats with good quality (it didn't matter if collapsible or not, because I needed both at that time) and it's not an easy task. But stil, if you know of some places where new hats are available, could you let me know - I'd prefer to have a replica instead of antique if I need to wear it often :)
A friend gave me a similar hat, in very decrepit condition. Rather than silk, the crown and brim had been grosgrain or petersham. (Although in shreds, there was enough material to recognize this.) The stiff parts, brim and top of crown, are made of what is called gossamer. Gossamer was made by soaking layers of stiff interfacing in shellac and curing it for several months. As in yours, there are four mechanisms, front, back and both sides. The springs were in the middle, where the hinge is. They are dual-ply leaf springs, a pair of them, so they make a heart-shaped outline, each dual-leaf spring forming one side of the little heart. Very elegant construction, and still in good working condition (although not with as crisp a pop as yours). It had an odd feature on the inside of the crown, the function of which is mysterious to me--I'm hoping you can enlighten me. It is a thin cord with tiny beads spaced at intervals of about half an inch. One end is attached to the little ribbon at the back of the crown, about an inch below the flat top. The other end is attached to a little horizontal band or strip, about 2 inches by half an inch, which itself was attached to the inner lining at the two ends of the strip, at a similar distance from the top of the crown, and to one side. Some observers speculate that this cord had at one time been elastic, but now completely relaxed and several inches long. Do you have any idea what that was for?
I cannot imagine this featuer you're describing. I didn't see it probably or I would remember... :)
Absolutely fantastic video!
Thank you very much
I want to try to make one of these (but very tall as a joke) and knowing how they work is very useful for me, thank you!
Don't care what anyone thinks. They are cool. I want one.
Very well done and informative!
Thank you very much! More are coming soon :)
i thought it was something in cartoons
this has blown my mind
Hey! I love your videos! Very informative and interesting. I hope you will make some more and show us some of your collection. Thanks for the ones you have done so far, please post something new!
Thank you very much. More of them are comming very soon, maybe even this week :)
@@KatarzynaAndres I love those collapsible top hats I want one of those
@@phaionjosey8728 if you're looking that, what I can recommend is that you should consider some old original hats, becasue I couldn' find any place where they still make them :(
Oh! .. .. I have exactly the same (with the same mechanism ( same hinges and springs as the first one with the broken loop) as the one that is broken) But he's fine. Only slightly faded and worn. I like the fabric on it. Now everywhere synthetics and such a soft and high-quality black satin is almost impossible to find... It is only 15 cm tall, but it is made to appear tall... And the label says it's made in Germany, in lüneburg...I wonder how old he is....
It's quite extraordinary! If you would like to share the picture with me - you're welcome to do so on my instagram @andres.tailoring (if you mention me, I'll certainly check out your profile)
5:31 here you go, you're welcome.
Where's the Pyrovision goggles and mercenary badge
I don't have them. I more acquainted with sewing than finding artefacts ;)
Super!
Bardzo dziękuję
Very informatve.
wow, strong after so many years!
Great
Thank you ❤️
thanks!
You're welcome :)
I was so sad when i read her post.
She had a fluent English accent before developing mercury poisoning from wearing those top hats.
Super 😊😊😊
Dziękuję
Is there any way to make this type of collapsible top hat 1/4 size larger ?
Cut the back strap ? Even if it looks bad ? Does not have to look perfect after enlarging.
Just need to expand it a little. Too tight.
Great video!! What's the height of the crown of the hat?
Nice , thank you for this fact, I was ignorant how it worked. Your video could be somewhat shorter to make it better. Thanks.
Thank you for hint :) This was my first video and I'm still working on making them - I hope to make next ones with more appropriate length ;)
Kupilem niedawno 2 kapelusze, jeden szapolak i jeden bez mechanizmu(zwykly). Chcial bym sie jakos dowiedziec o ich starosci i wartosci.
I don't understand why top hats are not shiny anymore
Neither do I :(
In addition to white tie, top hats were worn with morning attire. Never with black tie though
I think, the morning ones were not collapsible, but (wool or fur) felt 🙂
@@KatarzynaAndres I stand corrected. As for black tie, I was watching a Fred Astaire movie from the 1930s the other day, and was surprised to see him wearing black tie with a top hat, so I suppose that I was doubly wrong.
Some purist say that collapsible hat only was used for white tie,for balls or opera,hence the name opera hat,for morning coat the right top hat is silk plush(the best) then beaver,then rabbit or hares fur,and the last is wool felt,if you have the money better buy silk than fur,and even beaver,they take an brownish apperance after quiet a while,and silk is lighter and more shiny,i have 3 top hats,1 is silk then a gray fur the last one is satin collapsible vintage hats,all of them are vintage,mainly from dunlap and co,except the collapsible one is from germany
@@dylanbonnet2675 being someone with an Astaire profile picture, I was about to mention that. BUT, Astaire wore it as it was a ‘fashion trend’ at the time so if you do wear it today, there are only two possible ensembles you can wear it with:
1. Wing collar, starch shirt, dB dinner suit
Or
2. Wing collar, starch front, SB dinner suit and white tie waistcoat (or black tie if you want, but that makes it slightly less formal)
@@carltrotter7622 What's the difference between an SB and a dB dinner jacket? I'm not familiar with the terms
I have a collapsible top hat but after awhile the mechanism wore thru the inside and scratches the side of your head.
I didn't have such problem. Are you sure you wore proper size? It may be also the issue with this specific copy :)
@@KatarzynaAndres could be .I put a liner in it so I Could wear it but of course that defeats the purpose of the hat. It wasn't an over quality hat .I have many more quality top hats from Christys of London.
Did you change the thumbnail?i thought it was a new video
Yes, I did. Sorry if I misled you, but I wanted to make it more similar to the other ones :)
How do you clean it I have one and its dirty
I do not clean mine, in fact. It was in very good condition and I do not wear it often (photo shoots and some historical events). But first of all notice from which yours is made of. If it's collapsible and it's made of silk like mine, than it's very fragile and you need to threat it like old silk. I'll ask my friend to join the discussion if she has any ideas :)
I checked it out with some of my friends but noone cleaned it. I will keep looking and if I know something more, I'll come back with the answer :)
Hand it out for the professionals who know what they working,sometimes they just rip off the fabrics(satin or grosgrain)then changed with a new one and cleaning the mechanism
You are so smart and beautiful
Thank you :)
As far as I know, the fabric (satin) for cylinders was made in those days in Italy in Naples... Only there was known the secret of the quality and weaving of such fabric. It was sold to different countries. Restorers of these hats (with all the knowledge of the technology of a cylindrical draping) All you have to do is pull the fabric over an old metal frame with springs... (this is the most important part of such a hat. And it is preserved best, even if the entire fabric is very much torn. It would seem that everything is simple. You bought a new Atlas, and that's it... But no!..... many restorers of such cylinders know the technology... I also know how to do it right, and I've had experience working with shellac to make the brim of a hat. Always the difficulty is to find the same fabric. No self-respecting restorer of vintage clothing will use synthetics. But it is not enough to buy just 100% natural satin, you also need exactly the same. That's the problem... But these difficulties are interesting!
I didn't know that! Thank you for all the informations you shared under this video :)
@@KatarzynaAndres In different hats, the mechanisms differ significantly. I may add that the mechanism that was made in your hat at the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't open suddenly. I have the same model. New high-quality mechanisms are difficult to make (although they may seem simple) for this, the hatter needs to get a separate workshop. You should place an order with a separate master (who works with metal and machine tools) or look for a supplier of metal frames. Or take measurements and make drawings using the old frames instead of the template. That is, to make exact copies of old springs. New spring frames for hats are made (for example, in China), but they are quite heavy and rough. They are mostly of poor quality. The best of them are vintage hat springs. For this reason, hatters who make new folding top hats (gibus) now take old ragged hats from antique markets (they only need a frame with springs) and cover them with a new cloth... Pay attention to this!... .When you buy a new top hat, you can find vintage springs inside that are more valuable than the hat itself!.. this may surprise you!
@@KatarzynaAndres @Katarzyna Andres-Męska strona mody When I bought a folding cylinder (gibus), the tape on it immediately broke and gradually completely fell apart. This suggests that the fabric has a completely natural composition. At the previous owners, it was stored for a long time in the sun (on the window) or in a damp room. And he is many years old. I didn't find a suitable replacement fabric. I always have time to make a replacement. The ribbon around the brim of his hat had also faded from black to yellow. this means that he stood in the open for a long time, in direct sunlight.
@@user-pt1in6wk8h if the tape fell apart it was probably silk. Especially if this was lying on the sun for some time. Silk, when improperly stored, may even 'disappear'. Often, you can find the word "tattered", which describes it in some auctions or offers of vintage items. As to the replacement, you can try to look for vintage grossgrain ribbon. I have one in brown and in black and they are very similar to those on the hats :)
@@user-pt1in6wk8h I didn't think that mechanisms can be different, but now I think - why not! Technology changes with passing time :) And using old mechanisms from antique hats - brokes my antique-loving heart :(
I was hoping you would put it on especially with the hair at 0:27. Very beautiful.
Thank you 🙂 before I started making video, I decided it does not suit my outfit, maybe one day I'll make a video in my evening tail coat 😉
@@KatarzynaAndres Your evening tail coat ensemble is amazing, I hope you do this one day :D I've always wanted to learn about the different parts of white tie. (the tailcoat, waistcoat, bow tie for example)
Me too. Woman are so attractive is a top hat and she is adorable.
I want one !
I found one on vintage market and the other one just ordinary auction service. So I can say it's not hard item to find :)
🎩🎩😍😃😄😘☺️