Someone informed me that the military manual on setting focus stop rings calls for you to set the ring slightly behind infinity. The reason for this may be that temperature changes can alter where your infinite focus is. So if you notice it seems like it’s changing over time it could be due to temperature. For now I’m going to leave mine set at the perfect infinite focus that I currently have them at. When the nights start getting colder I’ll be able to see if my infinite focus has changed.
@@bappo1288 on my dtnvs’s it’s a 0.05” Allen wrench. Just use something that fits and DONT over tighten. The set screw barely needs any pressure at all.
I wouldn’t move your stop rings either, they are set where they are so you can attach magnifiers to the objective lens and focus them in, reason I wouldn’t move them is it can warp the end of the of the tube, it will cause friction in the focus adjustments and as you screw that tightening ring higher up on the pod you are tensioning it down to thinner weaker polymer areas, also the set screws are super super easy to over torque and you will destroy the threads. I already made a comment on the diopter lenses, don’t move the white dot ⚪️. The dial the numbers are printed on moves freely by hand... the white dot is your “zero” or reference point. So if you have 20/20 vision you would turn the dial until -.05 is in line with the white dot. A lot of people don’t know the rear eye cup insert are removable and are only there for sacrificial lenses or amber filters or filters of any kind. I don’t run rear eye cup inserts, it makes the IpD much easier because of the bigger eye box. So that was solid information. I’ve never broken a rear lens before, I’ve only broken front lenses and the actual arms the pods connect too.
@@yzhou05 I understand your thought but -0.5 is 20/20. If you buy PVS31 Alphas they come with a fixed -5 diopter because majority of the operators using them all have 20/20 or better. I don’t know why it’s -5 but I’m sure whoever invented optics and diopters had a good reason. Maybe Google has the scientific answer you are seeking. I’m gonna goggle it myself to see what the logic is behind it
Tiny as shit, I think they’re 0.05” Allen. Be very careful when you’re messing with the set screws. You only need to tighten them enough to be barely touching the housing
I took off the eye piece trim ring and then immediately proceeded to break the threads on the back of the eyepiece Those trim rings protect the very thin plastic threads on the eye piece It's literally paper thin plastic and will break if you bump it into a hard object without the sacrificial ring/rubber boot trim ring thing installed
Umm you don’t have to disassemble the eye piece to move it to zero... the ring turns without any tools. So if you are in -2 all you would have to do is grab the part of the eye piece with the serrations and turn it by hand to the 0. Do not take your lock ring off to adjust the diopter, they literally turn by hand without any tools or disassembling
Someone informed me that the military manual on setting focus stop rings calls for you to set the ring slightly behind infinity. The reason for this may be that temperature changes can alter where your infinite focus is. So if you notice it seems like it’s changing over time it could be due to temperature. For now I’m going to leave mine set at the perfect infinite focus that I currently have them at. When the nights start getting colder I’ll be able to see if my infinite focus has changed.
What Allen head or other tool did you use to loosen the set screws? @12gaugeTim
@@bappo1288 on my dtnvs’s it’s a 0.05” Allen wrench. Just use something that fits and DONT over tighten. The set screw barely needs any pressure at all.
@@12gaugeTim okay thank you my good sir!!
Did you notice these changes after colder temperatures?
Good shit!
Would be very interested in more.
That Focus stop is very helpful! :)
This was damn informative!
Amazing how the basics are overlooked and just “assumed” that many know these things.
THANK YOU!!!! you helped me adjust all the OCD issues i had with all my NVG's! All my dots are in 1 position and match across all my devices now!! 😎👍
Good stuff on the diopter white dot tips, but how do you know where is the real 0 is at? I mean what is the easiest way to tell
I use Matbock Eclipse on my NVG's, they devices work amazing for infinite focus!
Try the tarsier eclipse iris attachment you might like it better
hahaha yes! thank you for this
I wouldn’t move your stop rings either, they are set where they are so you can attach magnifiers to the objective lens and focus them in, reason I wouldn’t move them is it can warp the end of the of the tube, it will cause friction in the focus adjustments and as you screw that tightening ring higher up on the pod you are tensioning it down to thinner weaker polymer areas, also the set screws are super super easy to over torque and you will destroy the threads. I already made a comment on the diopter lenses, don’t move the white dot ⚪️. The dial the numbers are printed on moves freely by hand... the white dot is your “zero” or reference point. So if you have 20/20 vision you would turn the dial until -.05 is in line with the white dot. A lot of people don’t know the rear eye cup insert are removable and are only there for sacrificial lenses or amber filters or filters of any kind. I don’t run rear eye cup inserts, it makes the IpD much easier because of the bigger eye box. So that was solid information. I’ve never broken a rear lens before, I’ve only broken front lenses and the actual arms the pods connect too.
He moved the white dot because the "zero" was set at -2. The other one was focused but the one he adjusted was off by 2.
So don’t line up 0 with the dot for 20/20 vision?
@@Youknowwh0iam no, line it up with the -5
The range of visual acuity of average people begins at -4. Most professionally tuned night vision will have a base setting of -4.
So your saying -4 for 20/20 vision?
Typically, yes that is a good starting
Point.
You could always do the 556 mod with some bikini covers
FYI 20/20 vision you would have your diopter set to -5
? Shouldn’t it be 0 for 20/20.
@@yzhou05 I understand your thought but -0.5 is 20/20. If you buy PVS31 Alphas they come with a fixed -5 diopter because majority of the operators using them all have 20/20 or better. I don’t know why it’s -5 but I’m sure whoever invented optics and diopters had a good reason. Maybe Google has the scientific answer you are seeking. I’m gonna goggle it myself to see what the logic is behind it
What size are the set screws in the DTNVS?
Tiny as shit, I think they’re 0.05” Allen. Be very careful when you’re messing with the set screws. You only need to tighten them enough to be barely touching the housing
@@12gaugeTim Will do, thank you
I wish you put more details in the title.
I took off the eye piece trim ring and then immediately proceeded to break the threads on the back of the eyepiece
Those trim rings protect the very thin plastic threads on the eye piece
It's literally paper thin plastic and will break if you bump it into a hard object without the sacrificial ring/rubber boot trim ring thing installed
You just fail
@@pizzasteakphocheeseburgeri2965 nah I use my shit
thanks for this
the dumpster dtnvs
Umm you don’t have to disassemble the eye piece to move it to zero... the ring turns without any tools. So if you are in -2 all you would have to do is grab the part of the eye piece with the serrations and turn it by hand to the 0. Do not take your lock ring off to adjust the diopter, they literally turn by hand without any tools or disassembling
He isnt disassembling it to adjust the diopter, he's making the dials line up so that when it's set, it reads 0.
Scratchy low voice, couldnt really hear him.
hahaha yes! thank you for this