Flex Struggles continue on the Prusa i3 mk3 and CR-10
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- ** Rons Place **
Got in some new Filament from YoYi.. a really cool Red that was clear. I seemed to have my normal struggles.. failed on Prusa i3 mk3 and managed to get a print from Creality cr-10 on the 2nd try. This is just a chat about flexibles and some issues I was having.
YoYi Transparent Red TPU -
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Hi there! I have tricks. I have a business printing only TPU for my customers and I find that hot end at 210, 100% fan speed, retraction set to 4mm at 40 mm/s, and z lifting turned off gives me awesome prints. Also, on the mk3 you need to crank the extrusion multiplier way up to 1.12. I have found that YOYI is the best brand of TPU. I have printed probably 10+spools of it with limited issues.
Thanks for the input.. i've been trying different things. I did bump my multiplier and got a good print.
Make sure your flex filament is dry, bake it in the oven (60C) and keep it in a sealed box with silica
Thanks! I do keep all my filament in boxes with silica. I also use a food drier to dry my filament if I think its bad.
I have the same problem. You have to print very slowly (20-30 mm/s) and about 250 C for TPU. I would leave the cooling fan below 50%.
On the prusa mk/2/s/3 facebook group there was talk about a shim that removes the gap between the gears and the tube. Also there was talk about a different extruder housing that also removes the gap.
Hey Ron, I'm sure you already saw it, but just in case Prusa has a few new extruder parts for the Mk3. Among other things, they redesigned space where the Bontech gears are located to have a tighter clearance and improve the Mk3's ability to feed flexibles! Check it out if you haven't seen it yet.
Thanks! Yes I saw they have the new parts.. I honestly just found building the extruder up annoying lol so have been avoiding printing the new parts to rebuild. Thats on my list though; for sure. I did see some good changes when I assembled the one I bought for my group at work; so certainly will be doing it.
thingiverse has a flex upgrade attachment. 15mm per second or lower, remove retractions and wipes increase first layer width 105%-120%, increase extrusion multiplier if needed mine is 1.20 and print at high temp to make extrusion easier. that is what I use to print the super flexible ninja flex
The trick is hot slow with retraction off
mathu 5033 That’s what I have found as well. Turn off retraction, print hot, and print slow.
I use 0 retraction and print at 25mm/s using the temps the filament recommends. I think I will mess with reducing cooling fan speeds; and raising temps to see if it helps.
@@RonsPlace I use 10mm/s on my MK3 for ninjaflex
Make sure the bondtech isn't too tight, print slow, glue on the printbed and use the temp suggested by the filament manufacturer. I haven't had an issue yet printing with Ninjaflex TPU.
i have not had much luck with it.....but good video ron.....Thanks
Prusa is marketing the “bondtech” name around like It makes a huge difference. In all reality their extruder design is very poor and the tolerances are terrible. It’s not an actually bondtech extruder, it just uses the gears.
It still remains a machine that is not fully flexible friendly. Top that off with the printed extruder body it makes things worse.
With the true bondtech extruder, they are SLS Nylon bodies. The tolerances are much better and most friendly to flexible materials.
Justin L. Hi! That's weird! I realy thinked that with those Bondtech gears mk3 will be friendly with flexibles. So the gap should be the problem!
I have a friend that has a mk2S and it prints flexible flawness... so is it a downgrade? Well, this and others stuffs makes me think that Prusa goes too early to the market with mk3
I have the exact same problem on the mk3, still haven't figured out why, but my filament comes out of the assembly right after the bondtech gears
I think? I have seen/heard mention that you want to make sure you aren't really mashing the layers together. My understanding was along the lines of your layer width shouldn't be as wide as typical with more standard filament so you aren't generating backpressure at the printed object/exit of the hotend.
My comment probably isn't worth the pixels it is written with. Just sharing what I believe I recall hearing.
Your comments are ALWAYS worth the pixels :). Interesting thought about width to reduce pressures. I will have to mess with that
FLEX IS OUR NEMESIS, NOT BIG FAN OF PETG EITHER LOL ANOTHER GOOD VIDEO, THANKS FOR SHARING & HAVE A WONDERFUL DAY. GOD BLESS
I don't mind PETg really.. just strings a bit; but flex is annoying :)
Shameless self-plug: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867249
I designed this part to reduce the gap between the gears and ptfe tube for flexible or softened filaments. Printing just fine at 220C and 35mm/s with 3DSolutech flexible filament. Also a good idea to keep the tension on the idler screws pretty flush against the casing so its not too tight as this reduces pressure on the filament from diverting from the straight path. I use a single speed for all motions, 100% cooling and keep retraction enabled.
Plug away :) I will take a look at what you came up with. I need all the help I can get :) Thanks again
In order to print flexible material on mk3 you also have to loosen the filament feed tension screws. (5 turns on each screw worked for me)
Ive seen that mentioned a few times.. curious if you know the “why”? Does tight clamping cause it to try wrapping around the gear? I’ll test loosening things up.. great input
I don't fully understand it, but in this video: czcams.com/video/pysK-l3PTWY/video.html Maker's Muse explains that the ability to set the tension on the filament in Flexion Extrude is part of the reason why flexion extruder is so good for flexible filaments.I also had similar experience with E3D Titan extruder.
If you compare the bondtech mk2 extruder stl vs the Prusa you will see that they have nearly no gap between the gears and hotend ptfe. If I am not wrong somebody combined the bondtech and mk3 extruder