This was extremely helpful. I really like how he starts with getting out of the vehicle and showing us the tools he’s going to start with; it really got my attention. Knowing where everything plugs up to the new board just by looking at the wires is impressive.
"Fountain pen" cracks me up. Im so old, the school desks had a hole for a bottle of ink. The pens had a lever to suck up the ink. Thanks for the video.
Ted I have done that same thing on the drain. Here in Florida where we have high humidity, poor duct designs by previous companies with high static and a positive pressure drain you can get blow by on the overflow. Adding that elbow makes enough of a trap to stop the blow by eventually tripping the overflow switch in the pan.
Very neat work - I thought you where trying to trick us as when you made it into the roof space the unit was already open and there where tools on it - looks like the owner had a try at fixing it before he called you - I do agree with swapping out the board but I would have run a soldering iron over the board side of the molex (??) and retinned all of it's solder pads - I have done this on my own board as there is no direct easy replacement. In any event great work as usual.
That little screwdriver you were looking at towards the end of the video is an eyeglass repair kit. The screws that attach the ear pieces to the lens frame come loose and fall out. That was a nice kit, it had plastic holders on the replacement screws to make it easier to start them.
Hey, thank you for the video, I could troubleshoot the board on mine, it was a cold solder point on pin12 of the molex, which sends 24V to the gas valve, fixed it and it’s back on operation. It was an intermittent issue for more than a year and only last week it failed good.
That board is $50-$60. The time and effort it would take me to solder the joints make it not worth it(or at least a pass-through). In addition you still have an old board that other solder joints could fail on. Great choice just swapping it out!
Excellent video and I like the way your work. You proceed through the troubleshooting process in a very logical way. I do wish however, that there was a guitar in this video that you picked up and you treated us to a little song as you did in a previous video that I watched. I am a guitarist myself (and did audio recording full time in my studio) for many years and always nice to see people that can't resist picking up a guitar... On a serious note, your videos are very well done and explained. I have this same exact board likely to replace as the multi-pin Molex does the same thing if you wiggle the wires. The pins on the connector and board look fine and it's really hard to see if there's a cold solder joint on the PCB as you mentioned. All the best. Phil
"You can just remember where that all goes, or you can just know," I think you are about 100 board change-outs in before that happens lol. I still shoot a pic in case I miss a jumper setting or something just in case, you have mad skills.
I've soldered the pins on that exact model board before. It was throwing a code for a high limit switch. Couldn't afford a new board at the time but ended up having to buy a new one ~8yrs later. I was chasing an issue where it took it multiple attempts to light. Turns out it had more bad solder joints and they were for the igniter.
Those Molex connectors will crack the solder joint right where the pins go through the circuit board. I've seen them do it many times . Just resolder the pins and it will be fine.
Saw the cold solder connections immediately on back of the board during your inspection of board(holes in solder next to pins). Then heard you explain to customer that board looked visibly good and knew you didn’t see it. Great job diagnosing and finding issue Ted!
Hey Ted, I was at the supply house the other day and asked for some Jimmy Wiggler connectors and surprisingly they had no clue what I was talking about. Lol !!
Pin 5 didnt look good, If I was a tech that noticed this issue I would've just reflowed all those connections. Quickier and easier than installing a new part. And with soldering irons like the TS100 it is easy to do.
My friend worked as an HVAC Tech. He would replace control boards and power supplies in electronic air cleaners. He would save them up and let me look at them. Was almost always bad solder joints, relays, or electrolytic capacitors that failed.
I'm pretty sure I could see bad solder joints on the back of the molex connector. At 2:36, look at the pin with a small "y" near it. I would go over all 12 of those solder joints.
What sort of weather are you seeing out there right now? It has been getting down to the high 40s / low 50s here in Utah overnight and I've been really enjoying just throwing the windows open.
Thanks, this video helped me notice the killswitch under my cover wasnt being pressed hard enough. Must have jostled the panel replacing an air filter that was shoved in too far. I like to see what is owner level before bothering a professional for something as trivial as a pannel screw that was too loose
Those AMP connectors are high poor solder failures. A good 60-100 watt iron, some flux and new solder will fix them right up. As you move them, you will see the movement on the solder side of the PCB.
The new boards on a variable speed goodman is blutooth, kinda cool. B4 u even get down by furnace u link your phone n I know whats wrong b4 stepping foot in basement.
Depending on who you go to it will be. People who stay in business in this industry know their worth. Because mister do it all Daniel says he can find it online for $150 means nothing to me. Middle aged/old people complain so much about pricing but when the technology changes so does the equipment and training and expertises. You pay for what you get.
@@IIUzzymanII I get really disgusted with my generation. None of them ever realize how much an employee with a new well stocked truck cost, nor do they look at the whole picture of how much they cost their employers. I'm only looking at the parking space our companies provide and you can keep adding from there. Inflation is something they only see from their own perspective.
I have a similar issue with my Goodman right now in a rental. I found that the 24VAC transformer was working. From there the 24V goes into the control board, back out of the control board to the safety thermostat near the burner, and back into the board and down to the screw terminals for the thermostat. I had no 24V leaving the board for the safety thermostat, and therefor had no power going up to the thermostat. I removed that big molex connector, inspected it, found nothing wrong, plugged it back in and boom, the furnace turned on. Now, a few days later, the tenant says it's not working again. I suspected a bad board, but generally circuit boards are reliable enough I was second guessing myself. Your video, and your particular attention to that connector, has confirmed my diagnosis. THANK YOU!!!
Yep , i Bought a Bunch of 12” Husky tool bags 💼 at Home Depot for $5.00 each on sale. I use one of them as an initial Go in Bag. I Put a Meter in it , stripper tool , Klein crimpers , a Ziplock Bag with a Few Wire nuts in it. It’s Pretty Much all that’s needed for most service calls. Really nice not dragging my 35lb backpack 🎒 into every call.
Ted, wondered what your opinion on the new Runtru by Trane. It appears to be no different than Trane except for cosmetic changes and less selection basically builder option but furnaces and air conditioners appear same except no dura tuff pan on the ac. Is this right or is there any differences i am missing? Also are you going to carry Runtru as a second lower cost option?
This makes some sense with what I'm going through. I've tested all the voltages and it all seems normal. The ignitor heats up occasionally on its own, but when it doesn't I found if I constantly tap on the control board when the second click for the ignitor kicks in it heats up every single time. Guess I'll try a new board.
It's pointed up like that to make a secondary mild trap, theory is to keep bugs and such from crawling up the drain into the system, and building nests.
The board went bad in my Goodman furnace after 17 years. It would work intermittently. According to others on CZcams, the relays start to fail so it’s best to replace the board to avoid callbacks.
yeah, they fail, as well as the solder joints at large plug on those( mounted on blower housing which does the "shake shake shake, shake your booty" :)))
I have a board with no molex, and the “new replacement” does use that. The seller states that there are no instructions with the board so I am hesitant to attempt replacing with NEW, or just trying a “used” one off eBay that matches mine
Get yourself a ts80 and a quick charge powerbank it will give you a few hours run time depending on how big of a powerbamk you run I recommend loctite solder if you want to do field soldering if you want any links and info let me know
How come Service Tech’s do not look for code thru sight glass before removing doors? As this video started I saw the code light blinking but camera was not on it long enough to count how many blinks. It may not give the full story but it is a starting point when you approach a service problem. Just me opinion.
2:37 Almost looks like the large solder joint on the bottom far right might have a crack. It connects to 3 terminals in the molex connector. Hard to say for sure though.
I had a problem with a heater where it would start up but turn off after several minutes. I had a service guy come out and charge me money and said he didn't see anything wrong. I ended up finding that a solder joint would open up after the unit heated up and turn off. Cost me $0 to fix it.
My Goodman Furnace was in a building shut down for the Winter. When I did want to use the building the water was frozen in unit. I guess I didn't know I needed a Lennox furnace to turn on first to warm up my Goodman so it would run.. Very Poor setup. Only have one.....only be One.
I suggest you clean up that rats nest of the alert wiring Houston tie wraps for your hot side and your neutral side and set everything aside above and to the side of the board
21:55 eyeglasses repair kit LOL screws, little plastic/rubber holders to keep the screws on the blade to put them in, etc. yeah, only worn glasses for 35+ years and relatives longer.
He's replacing a board it be easier just to move one wire at a time over to the new board that way you don't get those mixed up and everything is plugged in properly! Chances are you going to get two wires mixed up by unplugging everything rather than just transferring one at a time over which you could have already done instead of spending twice the amount of time unplugging and replugging
Peter. 100% agree. Would not train anyone to follow this procedure. It’s unnecessary and if it was, I would label wires. This may be a simple And you could justify by claiming familiarity to it but not a good teaching procedure.
I've had so much trouble with my goodman unit that I now loath them so much. Im get a new central heat and air unit next. I told the heating and air guys that I want it to die a violent death. Pack it full on tannerite and touch it off.
how many heat anticipators have you burn up on old Mercury stats jumping those wires out like that hahaha 😉 I know I did a plenty before I learned you can't do that on Mercury stats and magnaflex stats
Best practice is to never remove wires from board. Remove board with wires. Install new board then transfer wires one at a time. I recommend more tools then those 3. Doesn’t have to be an overkill heavy pack pack. My thoughts. Not gospel. At the end it’s your choice.
This was extremely helpful. I really like how he starts with getting out of the vehicle and showing us the tools he’s going to start with; it really got my attention. Knowing where everything plugs up to the new board just by looking at the wires is impressive.
"Fountain pen" cracks me up. Im so old, the school desks had a hole for a bottle of ink. The pens had a lever to suck up the ink. Thanks for the video.
Love the vids ted they’re super helpful as I am new in the field
It’s speaks volumes when a guy puts it back together looking better than you found it. Good at ya Ted!
Ted I have done that same thing on the drain. Here in Florida where we have high humidity, poor duct designs by previous companies with high static and a positive pressure drain you can get blow by on the overflow. Adding that elbow makes enough of a trap to stop the blow by eventually tripping the overflow switch in the pan.
Very neat work - I thought you where trying to trick us as when you made it into the roof space the unit was already open and there where tools on it - looks like the owner had a try at fixing it before he called you - I do agree with swapping out the board but I would have run a soldering iron over the board side of the molex (??) and retinned all of it's solder pads - I have done this on my own board as there is no direct easy replacement. In any event great work as usual.
A piece of 1/4” tubing pressed over the retainer clips works like a champ. Thanks for the
Video ted.. cannot wait for the boiler vids :)
Great tip!
That little screwdriver you were looking at towards the end of the video is an eyeglass repair kit. The screws that attach the ear pieces to the lens frame come loose and fall out. That was a nice kit, it had plastic holders on the replacement screws to make it easier to start them.
Hey, thank you for the video, I could troubleshoot the board on mine, it was a cold solder point on pin12 of the molex, which sends 24V to the gas valve, fixed it and it’s back on operation.
It was an intermittent issue for more than a year and only last week it failed good.
That board is $50-$60. The time and effort it would take me to solder the joints make it not worth it(or at least a pass-through). In addition you still have an old board that other solder joints could fail on. Great choice just swapping it out!
$50 to $60 for a control board? Where can you find that price?
@@UltraHydrophobiccoat I bet $300 is more like it.
Who still solders boards anyways lol??? You don't make money by soldering lol
Excellent video and I like the way your work. You proceed through the troubleshooting process in a very logical way.
I do wish however, that there was a guitar in this video that you picked up and you treated us to a little song as you did in a previous video that I watched. I am a guitarist myself (and did audio recording full time in my studio) for many years and always nice to see people that can't resist picking up a guitar...
On a serious note, your videos are very well done and explained. I have this same exact board likely to replace as the multi-pin Molex does the same thing if you wiggle the wires. The pins on the connector and board look fine and it's really hard to see if there's a cold solder joint on the PCB as you mentioned.
All the best.
Phil
I had the same problem all it was were cold solder joints resoldered the joints and been working fine for a couple of years
I like it when Ted is "nosey"
Interesting seeing extra content lol
"You can just remember where that all goes, or you can just know," I think you are about 100 board change-outs in before that happens lol. I still shoot a pic in case I miss a jumper setting or something just in case, you have mad skills.
I've soldered the pins on that exact model board before. It was throwing a code for a high limit switch. Couldn't afford a new board at the time but ended up having to buy a new one ~8yrs later. I was chasing an issue where it took it multiple attempts to light. Turns out it had more bad solder joints and they were for the igniter.
I got a costumer with a rheem 4 ton package unit and his board giving code for open high limit switch can it be the circuit board
Those Molex connectors will crack the solder joint right where the pins go through the circuit board. I've seen them do it many times . Just resolder the pins and it will be fine.
Saw the cold solder connections immediately on back of the board during your inspection of board(holes in solder next to pins). Then heard you explain to customer that board looked visibly good and knew you didn’t see it. Great job diagnosing and finding issue Ted!
some looked suspicious, but hard to tell via video, needs high res photo's or perhaps very stable close-up.
Hey Ted, I was at the supply house the other day and asked for some Jimmy Wiggler connectors and surprisingly they had no clue what I was talking about. Lol !!
I'd change supply houses, all the good ones keep it right next to the blinker fluid.
Absolutely could see the cold solder joints on the board. There's usb soldering pens that work great for this.
Yeah I seen that too. Probably couldn't see it in person though.
Pin 5 didnt look good, If I was a tech that noticed this issue I would've just reflowed all those connections.
Quickier and easier than installing a new part.
And with soldering irons like the TS100 it is easy to do.
My friend worked as an HVAC Tech. He would replace control boards and power supplies in electronic air cleaners. He would save them up and let me look at them. Was almost always bad solder joints, relays, or electrolytic capacitors that failed.
@@kingpins9 Do you replace your car when the seatbelt gets loose?
The worst is trying to find a short or break in the wires from molex plug..maybe just me lol i hate shorted out calls.
First! You do good work sir- appreciate your videos. Not a whole lot one good suggest 👍🏻
You certainly helped me. Now need to add a wire for my nest from 4 to 5:)
I'm pretty sure I could see bad solder joints on the back of the molex connector. At 2:36, look at the pin with a small "y" near it. I would go over all 12 of those solder joints.
You ain't the only one. I seen them too. Unfortunately teddy has lost his voice but his eyes too.
What sort of weather are you seeing out there right now? It has been getting down to the high 40s / low 50s here in Utah overnight and I've been really enjoying just throwing the windows open.
Apprecitate the fountain pen removal tool talk, Gentleman Ted
Thanks, this video helped me notice the killswitch under my cover wasnt being pressed hard enough. Must have jostled the panel replacing an air filter that was shoved in too far.
I like to see what is owner level before bothering a professional for something as trivial as a pannel screw that was too loose
Keep them coming ted!
Those AMP connectors are high poor solder failures. A good 60-100 watt iron, some flux and new solder will fix them right up. As you move them, you will see the movement on the solder side of the PCB.
The new boards on a variable speed goodman is blutooth, kinda cool. B4 u even get down by furnace u link your phone n I know whats wrong b4 stepping foot in basement.
9:23 "jimmy wiggler" 🤣
That connector is full of dry joints, fixable but probably more cost effective to replace the board.
When you took that board off looked like the solder joints were gone where the plug attaches.
Mounting an electronic board onto a vibrating unit is an engineering concept to sell more parts.
No..its job security lol
That knowledge should be worth about $600 at today’s standard!
It should be worth an hour diagnostics time, period.
Depending on who you go to it will be. People who stay in business in this industry know their worth. Because mister do it all Daniel says he can find it online for $150 means nothing to me. Middle aged/old people complain so much about pricing but when the technology changes so does the equipment and training and expertises. You pay for what you get.
@@IIUzzymanII I get really disgusted with my generation. None of them ever realize how much an employee with a new well stocked truck cost, nor do they look at the whole picture of how much they cost their employers. I'm only looking at the parking space our companies provide and you can keep adding from there. Inflation is something they only see from their own perspective.
very good work thanks for importan info vry professional
I have a similar issue with my Goodman right now in a rental. I found that the 24VAC transformer was working. From there the 24V goes into the control board, back out of the control board to the safety thermostat near the burner, and back into the board and down to the screw terminals for the thermostat. I had no 24V leaving the board for the safety thermostat, and therefor had no power going up to the thermostat. I removed that big molex connector, inspected it, found nothing wrong, plugged it back in and boom, the furnace turned on. Now, a few days later, the tenant says it's not working again. I suspected a bad board, but generally circuit boards are reliable enough I was second guessing myself. Your video, and your particular attention to that connector, has confirmed my diagnosis. THANK YOU!!!
I need to start being a 'G' and just carrying my 8n1, pliers, and meter into calls.
Lol sure beats carrying a 50lb backpack loaded with tools
after watching Ted's videos for the past few years now, those are the only tools i take with me.
Yep , i Bought a Bunch of 12” Husky tool bags 💼 at Home Depot for $5.00 each on sale. I use one of them as an initial Go in Bag. I Put a Meter in it , stripper tool , Klein crimpers , a Ziplock Bag with a Few Wire nuts in it. It’s Pretty Much all that’s needed for most service calls. Really nice not dragging my 35lb backpack 🎒 into every call.
Ted, wondered what your opinion on the new Runtru by Trane. It appears to be no different than Trane except for cosmetic changes and less selection basically builder option but furnaces and air conditioners appear same except no dura tuff pan on the ac. Is this right or is there any differences i am missing? Also are you going to carry Runtru as a second lower cost option?
Ted is the best !!
Geeze- how this fellow handled the wires during the board change...wow.
This makes some sense with what I'm going through. I've tested all the voltages and it all seems normal. The ignitor heats up occasionally on its own, but when it doesn't I found if I constantly tap on the control board when the second click for the ignitor kicks in it heats up every single time. Guess I'll try a new board.
Maybe tapping on it constantly vibrates a broken solder joint enough to keep the contact
It's pointed up like that to make a secondary mild trap, theory is to keep bugs and such from crawling up the drain into the system, and building nests.
But it wouldn’t have water in the secondary to fill the trap if the primary is working properly....
The board went bad in my Goodman furnace after 17 years. It would work intermittently. According to others on CZcams, the relays start to fail so it’s best to replace the board to avoid callbacks.
yeah, they fail, as well as the solder joints at large plug on those( mounted on blower housing which does the "shake shake shake, shake your booty" :)))
I have a board with no molex, and the “new replacement” does use that. The seller states that there are no instructions with the board so I am hesitant to attempt replacing with NEW, or just trying a “used” one off eBay that matches mine
Butane soldering Ben and surprising core solder would be able to get him by in a pinch
"Change the Board out Bandit" strikes again...🤣😆🤣
Dumb question you may have answered before. What camera set up you use?
The twelve Molex connector solder points at 2:35 appear to be the source of the problem.
The orange wire??
Get yourself a ts80 and a quick charge powerbank it will give you a few hours run time depending on how big of a powerbamk you run I recommend loctite solder if you want to do field soldering if you want any links and info let me know
Nice job and video
How come Service Tech’s do not look for code thru sight glass before removing doors? As this video started I saw the code light blinking but camera was not on it long enough to count how many blinks. It may not give the full story but it is a starting point when you approach a service problem. Just me opinion.
Need to Show the jumper wires for testing the fan, furnace start up and so forth?
Dudes a True American
looks to me like bad solder joint or two on the big board plug, hard to tell by video alone, high res photo snap inserted would help :)
Ten minutes with a soldering iron is probably worth it, but I'd never repair anything on a furnace control board for reason of liability.
Yeah, if it was for my personal furnace. But never for a customer.
Was there a float switch on that system?
Pan float switch
It was tied into the Y wire. I always hook mine into the R wire then nothing is going to operate and you get the service call earlier.
Breaking yellow?
Tom Burson I thought the same thing. I always break red.
Cuts condenser and stops refrigerant flow. No refrigerant, no freezing coil.
Showing your age, Ted...a fountain pen ?
Good to watch
I see you're still using that Swyvl, crap magnet and all.
You can see the burn spot right away on the board
2:37 Almost looks like the large solder joint on the bottom far right might have a crack. It connects to 3 terminals in the molex connector. Hard to say for sure though.
I see 2 maybe 3 bad solder joints in that area where the big molex comes in
I had a problem with a heater where it would start up but turn off after several minutes. I had a service guy come out and charge me money and said he didn't see anything wrong. I ended up finding that a solder joint would open up after the unit heated up and turn off. Cost me $0 to fix it.
The combustion blower don’t sound to good either
My Goodman Furnace was in a building shut down for the Winter. When I did want to use the building the water was frozen in unit. I guess I didn't know I needed a Lennox furnace to turn on first to warm up my Goodman so it would run.. Very Poor setup. Only have one.....only be One.
I suggest you clean up that rats nest of the alert wiring Houston tie wraps for your hot side and your neutral side and set everything aside above and to the side of the board
At 2:32 you can see exactly where the board is burnt bottom/middle little to right
21:55 eyeglasses repair kit LOL
screws, little plastic/rubber holders to keep the screws on the blade to put them in, etc. yeah, only worn glasses for 35+ years and relatives longer.
Thx.
I love troubleshooting videos where you have to use telepathy.
Looks like someone else did some tinkering on it befor you got there
The solder connections on the board for those plugs did not look good to me. Maybe I need some glasses lol
He's replacing a board it be easier just to move one wire at a time over to the new board that way you don't get those mixed up and everything is plugged in properly! Chances are you going to get two wires mixed up by unplugging everything rather than just transferring one at a time over which you could have already done instead of spending twice the amount of time unplugging and replugging
After u been doing it for awhile u know where the wires go, plus u can always use the schematic
Peter. 100% agree. Would not train anyone to follow this procedure. It’s unnecessary and if it was, I would label wires. This may be a simple And you could justify by claiming familiarity to it but not a good teaching procedure.
The key words..should be good to go
Must be PCB week. Replace a Carrier one on Monday, and a Trane one on Tuesday. Who would have thunk ?? lol
That's for eyeglasses
Maybe Louis Rossman could expand his business
Thank
I've had so much trouble with my goodman unit that I now loath them so much. Im get a new central heat and air unit next. I told the heating and air guys that I want it to die a violent death. Pack it full on tannerite and touch it off.
how many heat anticipators have you burn up on old Mercury stats jumping those wires out like that hahaha 😉 I know I did a plenty before I learned you can't do that on Mercury stats and magnaflex stats
Eyeglass repair kit
Good ol Janitrol , i mean Goodman
Good Find on the Board. 99% of all boards are made in Mexico and you end up periodically with bad manufacturing issues.
Best practice is to never remove wires from board. Remove board with wires. Install new board then transfer wires one at a time. I recommend more tools then those 3. Doesn’t have to be an overkill heavy pack pack. My thoughts. Not gospel. At the end it’s your choice.
Thats how I'd do it. I would never remember where they went to.
I promise if I ever call you ill stay out ur way put to bad u don't work in NC
Sound was Very low to hear.
All in all I give it a 5.
Hiya
Soldering is bad. Causeur by expanding and shrinking because of hebt. Solder thru and then it probably will work fine
Volume to low.
Helicopter
Lame. All he had to do was spend 10 minutes touching up the solder joints to see if that fixed the intermittent connection.
I do not like Goodman