How To Use The Radial Arm Saw As A Jointer And Planer
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- Welcome back to the Northland Workshop! Being able to thickness wood and true up a boards edge unlocks many possibilities for woodworking. This usually requires a jointer and a planer which are expensive and take up valuable shop space. The good news is that with a couple accessories you can turn your radial arm saw into a jointer and a thickness planer! In this video Iain will show you how to do just that.
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The real surprise is the expanded capabilities of the saw that I was not aware of. Nice video. Thank you!
It can also be a full on router if there's a protruding shaft at the back of the motor, or at least, in some models.
The more I watch these videos showcasing the many talents of the RAS, the more I realize it may end up being one of the only tools in my shop. My bandsaw being the other. And my lathe. That’s quite a minimalist shop.
More room for hand tools. 😄
I love your understated humor - treating a board like one's cat is funny and true!
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives czcams.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Great instructional. You give a thorough lesson on using this tool.
Nice ❗ The Radial arm saw rules, and no need for even a table saw , but you have to have a quality saw . I have a Delta commercial 12" in my shop . I love it and even OSHA . Nice saw . Old Dewalts, Deltas and even some Sears are great. 😎
I assure you table saws still have a use over this in a shop 😂 you cannot cut large pieces on a RAS and they’re dangerous as fuck compared to a modern table saw. Useful? Why yes very much so! I want a RAS for my shop, but it wouldn’t replace my compound miter or table saw. Tbh it would probably just stay setup as a shaper jointer since I don’t have one, only a planer and that can’t do sides.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I have a Dewalt 10" with all those accessories but have never used them. Time to try them out.
Great job! thanks for your time doing this! Radial arm saws are great when you know how to use them. It is so easy to learn. We need more videos of how capable these saws are.
Thanks!
great video! i haven't done any wood working since high school and just starting to get back into it. i got ahold of a used radial arm saw and had no idea that they were so capable! thanks for the extra info on observing the wood grain.
Thanks! What kind of radial arm saw did you get?
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop it's an old Sears Craftsman 113.19771. I gave a guy like $25 for it and it works! Any idea if I can set this model up as a jointer and planer?
I believe I remember my Craftsman book showing using the rotary planer going across the wood. I think it’s a matter of personal preference and the width of the board. A narrower board two passes with your method. A wide board could go either way. Respectfully, Kevin
That could be. I only have the instruction sheet that came with this Craftsman rotary planer to go by and it said to do it the way I show in the video. If yours says differently I would go with what the instructions that came with your particular planer tell you to do.
I'm keeping an eye out for ebay auctions for one of those rotary planer attachments. They sell for a surprisingly high price.
I noticed that the board you were planing is warped and has a rock to it. Each time you pass the piece under the planer it's likely that it's tilted differently from the previous pass and the result wouldn't be a flat surface. I would suggest attaching a shim to one corner or securing the board to a piece of plywood or MDF to guarantee that each time the workpiece is run under the planer there isn't a question about which corner is raised up.
Yes, it was rocking pretty good. Usually I have a scrap piece of melamine that I hot glue shims and the work piece to so it doesn’t rock but I’m couldn’t find any hot glue sticks.
This was a great video. Thanks for putting in the effort to post it.
Thanks for watching!
really enjoyed this....very informative, cheers from Orlando, Florida, Paul
Excellent video. Learned a lot, all the nessisary safety tips were included, and it was very straight foreword. Thanks for making it.
Thanks!
Good show, Iain. I planed a glued up RAS table with the planer before you became the owner. I used good quality plywood on edge and kept the table narrow enough so the planer could reach the outermost edge. It created a little bit of chip out on the edge grain layers of the plywood, but it took out the irregularities and got it flat. It's quite versatile.
I really like that planer. The instruction sheet that came with it talks about using it to raise panels. I think I’m going to have try that.
Thanks! I was looking for both, planer and jointer, but now considering this with the correct accessories. Thanks a lot!
Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing!
I enjoy your videos. They are very informative. I have an old Sears Craftsman RAS. I followed the instructions regarding greasing and lubricating. Can't get bevel to work. Took the bevel mechanism apart and put it back on saw but can't get it to work. Do you have a video where you re-assembled the RAS? Thank you.
Thanks, I have a video on aligning a radial arm saw and I go over the bevel adjustment. Maybe that would help?
thanks for sharing! there is not very many videos on radial are accessories
Wow Phil ! I have never heard of cork oak ? That's another beauty . The rays on the ends are outstanding . Al
For planing... why not use a sled with the piece shimmed and just slide that along as you slide the rotary planer back and forth???
Hellos. I was wondering, is there an online site, that shows all the different modifications, parts, and tasks the craftsman radial arm saw is capable of using, and doing?
I am a total novice to any table saws. Watching you feed the piece through the joiner attachment, would a wide push block with a handle on top, held across from the out feed point help keep the correct position you reference?
So, the jointer pass is “planing” the height of the board? I assumed squaring all four sides of a board is “planing” the board, but I am questioning that now.
Apologies for the basic question. I appreciate your tone and delivery and your competence and skill comes through.
If the arm of the RAS has a rectangular profile, it is easier to use a U-shaped clamp as a stop and use U-shaped spacer for this kind of operations, such as jointing. You can move the motor by 1/16 inch with a 1/16 inch spacer.
After you have set the infeed with the saw pushed toward the stop, build the outfeed by gluing a 1/16 flat skin onto the fence as the outfeed, and then insert the 1/16 U-shaped spacer on the arm. Use the same material for both spacer and the flat skin, even if not precisely 1/16.
Use an automotive valve feeler gauge for fine adjustment on the arm if necessary.
Great video.....really enjoy the content. Well done.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I found this very informative!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video
Very informative, thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
this a nice, clear explanation, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Please, where did you found the Rotary planer attachment?
I have the first item but i am completely unable to find the Rotary planer neither in Amazon, eBay o AliExpress... Even nothing similar... 😢
Hey Iain, I used your planing method yesterday. I altered the method slightly because rotating the board resulted in the wood splintering quite a bit. I just kept the orientation the same and worked the planer head out all the way. I just used a push stick to complete the last pass.
That’s a good point sometimes the grain doesn’t work with the flipping method.
Thank you for the video and the clear explanation. It's a new world for me and I hope to find an used machine to start practicing. A new machine is very expensive for me. I am a mechanical engineer and even if some work is needed to recuperate some parts It will be nice for me. Many thanks.💚💛🇧🇷
I'm thinking if you use 2 fence set up can you use the whole blade?
Love the old RASs and all their crazy attachments. Amazing, versatile machines. A safety nazis wet dream. But if you follow the procedures and know what your doing, they are as safe to use as any power tool. There is just more to be aware of with a RAS. Be careful with those severely cupped boards. Something that bad is worth ripping in half, jointing and gluing back together. If you planed that down until both sides were flat and parallel, it'd only be 3/8" thick. You can save a lot of lumber that way.
where can I have that adjustable back fence
Really helpful.
Thanks!
I love these accessory videos. Great job!
Thanks!
Great video man, I wonder if you used a flat board to set your board to be planed on, shim the board so it doesn't move and hold it down with hot glue. Then after you've flattened one side remove the board, flip it over flat side down and run it through the planer and you'll have 2 flat faces! I used to use this method before I had a jointer and planer. I dig how you actually use those old school tools, a lot of people collect them and don't use them keep up the great work big dog!
Thanks, yes I actually have a piece of melamine that I use a a sled for just such occasions but I was out of hot glue sticks.
Thank you for making me safer with my RAS! Cant wait for the moulding video. I have the DeWalt infeed fence but only just finished my Mr Sawdust table and haven't had a chance to try it out. Interesting you comment re Triple chip blades.
I’m glad I can help. TCG blades leave little uncut corners in the bottom of the kerf that is strike 1 against them. Strike 2 is that they have more tear out during cross cuts than alternate top bevel raker combo blades. The modern combo blade beats the tcg blades in both those categories.
1
Mick, Do you have the guard? I have one somewhere I dont have need for.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshopI thought combo blades leave some kerf in for corners? Since they’re not true on the cutter all the way across the edge.
God Job !
Hello. Really like your workshop videos. Just subscribed. My saw is a Rockwell Deluxe 10" turret arm, 1970s, great saw.
I have some questions about the rotary planer ...
Is that a Craftsman planer? I'm thinking of buying one on eBay, but the seller knows nothing about it and can't answer questions.
What is the mounting hole diameter? 5/8 inch?
What is the distance across the opening for the hex arbor nut? To make sure my Rockwell arbor nut fits.
What should I use as spacers between the planer and the motor? To ensure the arbor doesn't stick out.
I saw a video where a guy was using a rotary planer in crosscut mode, cutting from front to back. Have you ever tried that?
Thanks.
I love the cat analogy 😂😹😹
Thanks
Great video. Did you ever end up doing an instruction about using the Craftsman radial planer that you set aside at the beginning of this video?
Question: Why did you have the cup section set the way you did?
Are these parts fairly universal and where would you recommend purchasing them?
You crack me up with your examples which make sense but are funny as in the cats hair...and wood grain
I read the cat hair example in a book once and it stuck with me.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Keep up with the videos when you can. I have 3 Dewalts and your tips help out with setup. I spent the last hour eyeballing my new sawdust table placement. The PO installed the old 1030 SA table using some non factory method and I am trying to sort out how it I supposed to go on.
I have a mint condition DeWalt 14” GR 54, 3 phase 3 hp radial with a 1” diameter arbor. Do you know of any planer attachment was ever made available that had a 1” arbor? The only shaper guards and planar attachment’s I’ve ever seen fit smaller arbors and smaller DeWalt’s only.
I have an old craftsman jointer, small one but it’s all cast iron and very heavy
The best jointers have lots of cast iron in them.
is it easy to sharpen the blades of the Planer? i have been looking at them and am curious.
That’s a good question. The blades on this particular one is carbide so I would touch them up with a diamond hone like what Rockler sells for touching up router bits. If the carbide is too far gone or chipped you might be able to get a saw blade sharpener braze new carbides on but I would bet that would be pricy.
Thanks again, I've tried the jointer and it works fine however when trying to use the other moulding cutters and the double glue joint cutters I am having problems setting it up so the wood does not jam against the left hand fence. Would be great if you could do a video on the glue joint or moulding cutters setup and use. Thank you
For a reason. These were phased out for a reason people they’re not very accurate and a bitch to keep adjusted and in spec. They cannot replace a proper jointer, planer table saw.. they can only truly replace a compound miter and I’d never waste my money doing so. I want a RAS for the historical value of having one.
Hi can I ask you where I can buy the planner cutting head, so far I haven’t been able find anything on the internet?
Thanks
Darrell Curr with Darona Designs
I’m enjoying the videos. This one left me with a question. You mentioned that you’ve decided to set the triple chip blades aside, but didn’t say what you don’t like about them. Would you please elaborate?
The I’ve tried two triple chip grind blades over the past year. One was a Freud and the other was a Forrest Woodworker I. Both blades had more tear out than the alternate top bevel raker tooth combination blades I usually use. In fact my new Forrest Woodworker I did so badly I took it off and put my 10 year old combo blade back and the cut was much improved. The other thing I don’t like about the triple chip grind blades is the little corners they leave in the bottom of the kerf. I can use my combo blades to make fairly flat bottom grooves, not so with the triple chip grind.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop You're opinion and. comparison of blades on a RAS would be a good topic for a video. I was considering a WoodWorker I however given your opinion will probably hold off.
It’s on my list of videos to make. I can only imagine the blow back I’ll get from it. The Woodworker I blade has a strong cult following, that is more than a little creepy, and they don’t like it when somebody says something even slightly less than positive about the blade.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Thats fair, although the Anti-RAS people haven't showed up to tell everyone how you're going to loose all your fingers and lower your credit score by turning the RAS on. I'm guessing the woodworker blade is on hollowed ground because Wally Kunkel sold it with his name on it. To be fair, blade technology has changed a lot since these old cast iron beasts were birthed in the 20's. I don't see why it would be so crazy that blade preference has changed, especially if you demonstrate why. Either way I eagerly await that particular video.
@@JustFixIt99 I’m not too worried about upsetting the Woodworker I fanboys, I just need to be in the right mood to kick that hornet’s nest. If you watch the desktop organizer video you’ll actually see the Woodworker I on my Rockwell saw for several cuts.
The guard is a simple device that can easily be shop-made. Does not have to be attached to the saw but can be attached to the table and/or fence.
The fact is that in this mode of operation parallelism is not a factor. The jointing and moulding are linear (one edge) cutting (like a router bit), not two-dimensional cutting with a circular blade.
Great video! I also liked the updated RAS set-up video and have subscribed to the channel. There aren't many old DeWalt RAS in our part of the country. Any ideas on where to find an infeed fence? I have checked E-Bay, but no luck :(
Thanks, the infeed fences show up on eBay every now and then. If you like RAS videos you’ll like the one I’m currently working on. I’m building a Shaker sewing table using the RAS and it’s accessories including the DeWalt lathe attachment.
Steve, I believe there’s an infeed fence on eBay now.
An off set dato blade for planing will work just off set the blade passed the nut
make more videos. I like you.
Thanks! That’s the plan.
watching for a second time.....always good tp refresh this' old memory, cheers from Florida...Paul
Where do I find all the attachments?
People send them to me but you can find them on eBay.
I search e-bay and other online markets for radial-arm saw accessories. I am always ready to have to clean and sharpen whatever I get, but so far everything I have bought has been great. Planer head, single-blade shaper head, other parts, and even a replacement motor when mine failed.
I also regularly search the "Habitat for Humanity Re-store" location in the nearby town. My recent finds there for my saw were a 10" dado set and a 6" single-blade shaper head. Both in new condition and in the original Sears packaging - and both items for $10.00!
My saw is a Sears Craftsman 10" Radial Arm Saw that I bought new in the late 1970's. Until three years ago, it was my only stationary power tool. Now it is accompanied by a lathe, a drill press and a bandsaw.
Note that, based on experiences in high school (mid-1960's) and when shopping for my saw, I decided that a table saw is far too dangerous for me to use, and I will not have one.
WHY are you attempting to PLANE or Edge with a "WARPED " Bowed board ? Why not use a FLAT board ? Just curious
Because lumber is expensive. I save the good wood for actual projects. If you would like to buy me lumber I use whatever you buy me otherwise I’ll keep using scrap pieces for these types of videos.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop
Hey
I hear Ya ....
Just thought it may be a better introduction to show lumber better suited to instruct with :)
No worries &
Have a Great Day
cool vid
did you see the other planing vid? I forgot the youtuber's name - he didn't use a guard and swiped it over using the arm. It's not as safe but it seemed to work well for fast work
I don't see how this can work. Using a jointer, one flat face should be jointed first, then the edge jointed with the flat face
against the fence. That ensures a true 90° between the flat and the edge. This method will make all the surface flat but not necessarily perpendicular or parallel to each other.
Looks far safer than a jointer . I knew a cabinet maker that lost the tips of his fingers on a jointer . I really don't know why you couldn't have an Aluminum fence on a Radial. Not much different than a fence on a table saw .
When I was in high school (mid-1960's) one of the wood shop instructors sacrificed his right thumb to a jointer. He was in a hurry, just making a quick cut on a short piece, - basically violating every safety rule and procedure they had taught us!
Aluminum fence on a radial arm saw - technically it could be done, but in over 46 years I have never seen a need for one. Any woodworking saw blade will cut aluminum just fine.
Because I did have a problem with wood fence straightness many years ago, I now add a 3/4" aluminum "U" channel to the bottom of fences that I make, to keep them straight.
I regularly make a new fence when needed, generally using poplar 1x2 lumber. My main ones are a crosscut fence (of course) and a rip fence that has one-way anti-kickback holddown rollers on it. Sometimes others are needed for special purposes. The edge jointer fence and planer fence are examples.
The jointer fence is two pieces. (I don't have one of those fancy cast-iron ones shown in the video.) The right half (the infeed side) is just a normal fence. The right (outfeed) can be set backwards as needed using metal shim stock of various thicknesses. (The shims are cut short enough to stay below the table surface.)
The planer fence is as shown in the video, one piece with a cutout for the planer head to pass through.
I don't normally use a miter fence; I almost always use a jig for that.
"it doesn't know this is a DeWalt saw" ... lol
Sorry, that planer function is terrifying. I'll just get a lunchbox planer and skip the captain hook cosplay award.
I have used the planer head on my saw a lot and have had no problems yet. Of course, I always re-check measurements and wear proper personal safety equipment. For using the planer head, I mount the board being planed on a sled, and push the sled through. That keeps my hand much farther away from the blades than if I was pushing the workpiece. I didn't get this old by being careless!
You have excellent information but horrible sound. Get some help! Cork sound boards or drapes on the walls at least.
It’s a workshop not a sound studio. You get what you get and you like it.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop I understand all that. However, if you take a few minutes to watch other workshop videos, you will notice a big difference in sound.
It can be done.
Idee altamente pericolose! In totale contrasto con le NORMATIVE DI SICUREZZA!