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Turbo K24 Ferrari: First Dyno Session!... And Now I Have to Pull My Motor....
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- Learn more about Pennzoil at bit.ly/MikeSta... #Pennzoil #TheProofIsInThePennzoil #sponsored
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Be sure to support our friends at H&R Springs for helping bring this Honda-swapped Ferrari project to life:
www.hrsprings.com
Last but not least, check out the rest of the gang that helps to make this project happen:
www.nittotire.com
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www.rywire.com
www.rsfuture.com
www.csfrace.com
www.garrettmotion.com
www.turbosmart.com
www.vibrantperformance.com
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:22 - I Had to Pull the Motor....
00:59 - Everyone likes Jugs... of Water: IC System Bleed
02:23 - Brake Reservoir Fix, Reverse Light Switch, VSS
04:03 - Spark Plugs, Fuel System Check
05:53 - Oil Check
06:59 - On the Dyno at Animal Auto!
07:49 - Hurdles: Oil and Cooling System
09:22 - The Real Problem: Clutch Slip
11:08 - Back to the Shop to Pull the Engine
12:15 - What's Wrong with the Clutch?
13:26 - What's Next?
15:52 - Outro
Because I know some of you will be curious, and I didn't take the time to explain: Why would a slipping clutch yield the WAH-WAH-WAH surging and not a typical slip-rev? Well, it has to do with the dyno. Because we're bolted to a hub dyno, the dyno responds by providing more or less resistance as the clutch begins to slip. We're hearing the "call and response" between the engine and the dyno itself. It may sound odd, but it's a tell-tale sign of a clutch issue on a dyno like this one.
Thanks for the update. I'm really invested in this build.
Just part of the process the refinement process. Take your time we can wait.
That's the exact question I had when you said it was the clutch... thank you for answering.
Thanks for clearing that up 👍 I wasn't sure and I had questions.
G'day from Wst Australia,😉
Just a point of interest to consider:
1. With twin clutch set ups over my 40yrs trade life, every now and then I see the pins that the assembly is guided by not allow free movement.
2. Fix can and has been to open up slots ever so slightly to allow free movement of clutch plates and intermediate friction plate.
3. A fine build regardless of a few hick ups.🙂👍👍
The highest point of this build series was not the SEMA reveal, it's all the work needed to make it drive properly, we're here for the long run with you, for sure!
I love how you went back to the idea of a functional NACA duct, thrilled to see that come alive.
You’re such an inspiration dude. Problem solving while maintaining a positive attitude in a completely unique and groundbreaking platform is something to aspire to for sure. Well done man!
Thanks a ton my friend!
I love your transparency in things not going 'CZcams smoothly', this troubleshooting's just as exciting as the initial build videos, new, exciting, and educational. 🤘
The failures are half the fun!
Definitely expected to hit bumps like this on the road to perfection. You basically built the car again from the ground up, even if you did everything correct the sheer number of new parts on this thing gives you a high chance of something just being defective from the factory.
Either way, just means more episodes for us!
“There’s always a chance I messed up”, the way he says this shows how humble he is. He can do all this work and be this smart, and still make little mistakes that cost a lot like the rest of us
You should use a vacuum coolant filler. Never had air lock using one.
I've watched this build from the very beginning and I can't wait to see this beautiful piece of art on a track. Full confession? I HATED the engine swap and didn't fully understand why you would go with a 4 cylinder. As a gen xer and a drag racer, I couldn't see the potential of that little K motor, but now I get excited every time I see a Stance Works video on my feed. This thing takes what was a very beautiful poser and turns it in to a legitimate superstar! Bravo.
Amazing...what a facinating oddessy this has become. The perfect definition of an oddessy in fact..."a long and complicated journey marked by many changes of fortune".
Mad respect for your efforts and patience getting to this point Michael.
Looking forward, with interest, to the results from the clutch gurus.
That plenum on the intake side would have Ferrari engineers swooning. Impeccable engineering.
Once again great content and flow of the video. As far as your bleeding issues go, buy yourself a cooling system vacuum filler. It will fill the system with no bleeding needed. The clutch issue sucks, but it too could be a bleeding issue. With a small amount of air in the system, the expansion of the air with heat can cause a problem. Also, make sure you have some pedal free play. if the fill port on the master is covered by the plunger, it will pump up with usage.
Hope you get it all sorted. Great to see your positive attitude with all of these stumbling blocks. "Just keep swimming".
Gordo.
love the @StuffMadeHere quote lol
Lots of lesson to be learned for someone like me who is a shadetree wrencher. Especially the way you deal with setbacks. You make it seem like its an opportunity to learn vs being something negative. Thats definitely a mindset I need to adopt.
@6:43 - those wheels are so dope!
Perfect look!
Yeah. Dyno time!
I’ve seen K-series on both Ferrari and Porsche now. My life is complete
Enclosed trailer, one word: Aerovault. Easy for one person to load and unload. Ask me how I know. Like me, you’ll say what took so long messing with too many other lesser trailers and their faults. Worth every penny. Designed and built by none other than Peter Brock who really understood what he wanted for his personal car trailer. Peter is famously known for the design of Shelby’s Daytona Cobra Coupe and much more. Btw I’m not a paid shill just a very happy owner of my own Aerovault.
Sounds great too! The full rips are going to be next level stuff!
Enjoying every second of this journey = Thanks Mike 😎
Love how choppy k series sound with locked VTEC 🤘
Looks So Awesome, Sounds even better. I didn't see a Coolant Burp Bottle, you'll need that to remove all the air over a few hot cold cycles. Water, and air does not make a good heat remover. Learned this on my 68 440 built Charger, once the air was finally completely removed from the system it was like the engine woke up HP wise and stopped running hotter than the thermostat.
nice to see what boils down to crossing t's and dotting i's.
All those changes are a learning experience. You the only one doing this with a Ferrari. This is a unique build that commits sacrilege to the Ferrari Comunity. Double fingers up to them! Those old Ferrari V8 were junk!
those white Wheels look amazing
Lol yeah! StuffMadeHere reference.
So waiting for your intro to end and then seeing your face I knew it wasn't devastating news. Whew!
Love the white wheels!
Get a hydraulic front lift systems like KW HLS system… this would make getting on to trailers or up step drives, kerbs, speed bumps etc a breeze, just makes life easy.
Totally agree with new radiator location for the water-intercooler...
The heat load on water intercooler unit at operation wast as big as the engine coolant system...
U can getaway with that naca duct, smaller radiator (probably x2 unit, 1 for each side) and ice tank anyway...
Also able to give more direct air flow to engine radiator up front..means better cooling efficiency for the most important things, the engine itself
Clutch stop setup correctly - possibly over extended the fingers if not.
Just stumbled across your channel. Love the idea of a k motor in an older Ferrari! The content is fantastic and the attention to detail of the problem and how it was resolved is very educational for any audience builds. I'm a fan and just hit the sub button! Now I'm off to bleed my 400hp turbo Miata NA coolant system.
Check out futura trailers, they make single person loading a simple safe process by lowering to the ground, and they have an enclosed version.
11:58 just like a Ferrari
I fell behind on watching your videos. So I'm just trying to catch up now. I like the idea of locating the heat exchanger/s for the intercooler in the lower rear 1/4's. The louvers are there might as well use them. That's the idea I mentioned back when I saw the video for your oil cooler.
And if you don't have one, it might be wise to add some kind of degas bottle/fill cap for the cooling system up front under the hood. Make it the high point up front to help bleed air out of the system.
Idle sounds sick.
The trailer you want/need is a "Super Tourer" by Futura Trailers
That bucking could very well be caused by the inlet pressure working against the throttle blade, forcing it to shut, releasing boost pressure by activating the blow off valve, to then open the throttle blade again under the then lower intake pressure, and the cycle continues. Should be easy to see in the data log if the TPS at the throttle body fluctuates at load, and if so, at what level of boost pressure.
I recall Tom Bailey having this problem on his "street car" during dragweek.
Really appreciate the way you walk us through the issues as well as when things go perfectly 😎
Interesting and great episode!
This is such a sick build, will be awesome once it's finished.
I recently subscribed and I'm close to having watched every video you've uploaded now. Just wanted to say I love the content so much. You're incredibly skilled, have amazing attention to detail and design, and always have such a great attitude to everything. The fact that it only took you two years to build this car while working full time, doing it on your own most of the time, and maintaining such amazing quality is so impressive. I know lots of people have complained but they simply don't understand how long real work takes. I also love how you address the comments, whether it's admitting when they were helpful, or just saying I hear you but you're wrong, you always do it with class. I'm here to follow whatever you work on going forward, I've learned so much and I'm always in awe of your work.
Im glad to see you taking your time making it right! They didn't just design the SR-71 and send it off when it was first built! How long did it take from the drawing board in 1957-58 til they got what we know of today as the Full Blown Blackbird?? Im proud of you man! I'd love to do something like this myself!! Good Job!
god i love this youtube channel... i CAN NOT WAIT to see that Audi mang
Bearing on a race clutch need to be set at a "set up height worn!" you need to check on the clutch drawing that height ! because with each wear, the springs from the clutch will move forward to the bearing and you need a higher gap from what I saw there.
I grew up on Miami Vice in the 80s and always wanted a white Ferrari! This thing is epic 🙌🏼
My sanctioning body specifically bands water wetter as well.
it could also be a oil pressure problem form the clutch master when the car is running. if the clutch pedal is not adjusted properly it could be applying pressure ever so slightly even if your foot if off of it. that could be worth checking just to make sure...ive ran into this problem before on a twin disc setup.
Air in your cooling system ?
I have two words for you:
Air Lift
Air Lift will apply a vacuum to your cooling system and even the most stubborn setup will bow to its power.
Worthwhile even if you have to make an adapter to fit your setup. Go check one out.
I have one! But a vac system has trouble fully compressing AN lines.
FINALLY! the answer i've been looking for..
wtf is a PLUMBUS?? apparently its the hydraulic throwout bearing part of a clutch.
neat
Keep up the awesome work. Looking forward to seeing updates on the other projects and the next merch drop! 🤞🏼
The intercooler will accumulate air the way you've got it.
Take the bleed plugs out and run some small bore pipes to the header. Speaking from experience here.
Every little bump will create air bubbles and these get drawn into the system. They'll stop in the cooler and reduce its efficiency. Its much better to have a self bleeding system anyway. Just fill and go, no messing about. Much better for rush jobs on race day too.
To the header?
What a result......!
Best regards, Frank from germany 🙋♂️🇩🇪
What is the suggested "bed in" procedure for the clutch? Any chance you just need to bed in prior to hitting the dyno?
I’m thinking this also? Most clutches ask for 1000km
Was wondering the same. Most clutches slip after replacing them and putting power on it. That's why they always recommend bedding it in for at least 500 miles.
Look into a brian James race trailer, i don't know if they have dealers in America or not but definitely worth checking out
Your car has come along way. Like most of your long time subscribers I’m well invested in your build. Thank for the update. Remember there is no success with out failure on the way. Keep up the great work and content. Really looking forward to the next dyno session and some “BIG” numbers.
Awesome video Mike what are you doing about the mirrors? I have mirrors that would fit your build perfect
If you're gonna put a radiator at the rear, you might need more airflow inside the engine bay.
Most of the cooling of factory 308 is at the front.
The rear only needs air for engine bay cooling and engine air intake.
That's why the air ducts on the 308 are much smaller than the NACA ducts on a F40.
The F40's turbo V8 makes around 450hp.
If you're gonna make more horsepower than a F40, you're gonna need more cooling ducts to direct air into the engine bay.
Almost certain that's not enough clearance on the release bearing. Go on the slack side to take into account bedding and heat expansion.
Cool, breakaway testing.
That hand tool rescue wrench for the fuel filter thooo
Such a cool car!!
By the way... if the clutch fingers aren't resting perfectly flat, i.e. their presentation as a unit is conical, then the visible air gap you have is false and there is contact on the inner part of the TO bearing surface. You'd have to cram a piece of .001 shim stock in there all the way to the shaft without any drag to verify that.
I love this car so much. What a beauty.
Big power comes with little bugs. this thing is gonna absolutely scream though!
What Fun!
You have the patience of a saint!
I'll be honest I was initially a hater with this build but it's pretty sick. It's still sacrilege though ;)
What is the turbo using for a oil restrictor? If your not using a TurboSmart OPR please install one. Your turbo will thank you
I thought it before, but now I'm positive: the profile looks SO much hotter without the rear decklid's trailing "pillar".
Thanks for keeping it real and keep us updated. Can't wait till you work out the bugs and get to send this thing on track!
When I ran rear mount rads on my RX7 I had ALL the bleeding issues until I added air bleeds to both ends of the car on both lines. Real pain.
I could see u buildin a air ride trailer for content with just the front covor for tires n road protection
I hope, hope, hope this car gets a chance to be digitized into Gran Turismo like that 240Z did from the guy from Tokyo Drift (Sung Kang). Good luck! I followed your build in the beginning then got burned out with the minutiae videos. But it is great seeing it in almost fighting condition! I'm back in the audience 🤪
Any reason you don’t use a vacuum bleeder for the cooling system? Usually required for mid/rear engine front radiator cars.
LOVE your attitude bud!
you should check out the cooling system route on Mike day from ecstuning on his v8 rwd swapped golf
Best series of YT vids ever!
Don't ever stop getting this perfect Bro'.
Hey, what about a vacuum pump to fill the water radiator?
Why don't you guys make metal brackets or like heatshields around the exhaust to protect the paint from the heat, because everytime you can wipe the rear because of the fumes turn the paint brown, or am i missing something?
Papo thats nothing for being the first time on dyno keep up the good work 👏 💪💪
Is there a gap present when the engines hot though… That’s a very tight throw out gap. Expansion might be making it connect.
Awesome video, no preliminary dyno numbers?
Vacuum bleed is best bleed. If it were me I'd vacuum bleed each cooling system then bleed each cooling system as normal using the bleeder ports as nessacary. Looking forward to the impovements.
5:16 is that a hand tool rescue wrench !?
u got someone to do some mock ups for color combinations? i mean like wrap variations? i could do it, i see this car with semi dark blue candy, bronze wheels,
@stanceworks check out the futura super tourer. Would be a sick trailer deserving of this build.
Isn’t the whole bonnet and duct for the front radiator cooling system?
Thought it was a fuel pressure problem. But i guess the logs would show that.
Atta boy Mike!
I'm learning things through this channel, one of the reasons I keep coming back. Keep at it bro, you've created a beautiful monster, you don't need me to tell you that. I'm thankful for coming along on this ride with you ✌️💙☮️💜
this is an awesome car and channel, thanks
I wouldn’t use that oil to break in a new motor. Either dyno oil or actual break in oil would be best. It’s for a small amount of time only once everything has warn in back to good oil.
I thought no one will notice this
keep it going. nice work
sounds like a 2-stroke!
Throwout bearing measured cold, but what is the gap measured hot?
If it was easy, someone would have already done it. At least the motor didn't implode (ha). Nice to see you working through the issues.
06:40 - I'm seeing a closed bagged trailer in the future!!!!
@Stancework You know that scammers will suffer a stroke in 2023, right?! Be safe!!! Stop scamming.
You need a Brian James trailer from Scotland lol
Slow and steady (on the build) will win this race. Great video.
we have similar issues bleeding lotus' - jack up the nose of the car as high as you can to bleed it from the nipple at the front ... another option is to vacuum bleed / fill it ...