How to port a chainsaw part 5: How to lay out your portwork so you hit your numbers..
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- čas přidán 12. 01. 2021
- In this part I show how to lay out your port heights so that you can hit your numbers easily and not go to far!!
Thanks for watching!!
Bless you Tinman for sharing your wisdom with us.
Slowing down and taking your time explaining to us the procedure's and methods you follow to stay out of trouble.
Thank you for the close up shots and the How To do each step.
Jesus I just saw a new video from buckin and he bucked some firewood with your homelite. My god that saw amazes me every time I watch it. That is no doubt my dream saw. That thing would be perfect. Super light weight and super Balls!!! Great video wild man!!!take care!!!
Thabks buddy, that little Homie is a stout little package for sure.
Currently building a moped and these are some of the most informative videos ive found on 2 stroke engines. Will be using this info to create a 70cc 60mph+ beast of a puch maxi
This was the best episode I’ve seen on CZcams for how to basic port. Hands down the best for setup and then the next video on execution. Damn fine work.
Thanks so much for a straight forward and well explained video series! I think I'm ready to port my 031av!
Good stuff tinman! We’re all still learning so it’s always nice to see new ways to do things!!!
Great info as always Tinman. I’m glued to this series!
I learned the ring trick watchin Harvey's vids, been but your attention to detail here is top-notch. Great vid on timing it to the nail point.
This is great stuff Tinman!
Your content is appreciated.
Super nice job explaining port work! Thank you Tinman!ALOHA! 🤙🏻🤙🏾🤗
Awesome vid. You clarified alot for me... Ready to mark out my layout now and start grinding. Cheers
Excellent tutorial Tinman, tons of good info.
Good stuff!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!
Another great video! With guys like you and Ironhorse and others helping with teaching. You take the scary unknown out of rebuilding your chainsaws. On a side note, with these great videos that you all have been doing, I have started to notice that the price of old turd saw have increased quite a bit. Anyways be kind folks.
Almost late to class looking forward to the next installment. Keep up the good work 👍
Awesome stuff there Tinman I can't wait to port my first saw thanks for sharing this info with us.
Tinman, Great info, Seen Buckin running your super sweet Homelite again today that saw is nice .
That is 100% the funnest saw I've ever run. Couldn't of gone to a better man.
Wooohooo part 5 great video Tinman 👍👍
Super excited for next part, love to see other people's designs, I use the sink to make stuff go exactly where I want it to go and watch the flow, good content buddy, keep it up
Yep, the sink can tell you amazing things
Awesome series of videos. I was gave a echo 500vl. I’m pondering on porting it for my first try.
Great video Tinman! Thanks for the help and info, it's greatly appreciated! Keep up the awesome work 👍👍💪💪😁😎!
Tinmaaaaaannn! When you said I've got too many saws. Hahahahahaha that cracked me up, Buckin' just might have too many saws, ok not really. When this series is over I'll be binge watching until more of this knowledge sinks in. This series and The Ironhorse's current series are 2 of my favorite and I'm learning soooo much thanks Tinman. Be safe.....
Ok your right I need more saws. Variety is the spice of life as they say.
Always apreciate your comments, thabks for being here.
The amount of movement vs degrees of crank travel changes as you move away from the center/ends of the stroke.
Very correct.
To be accurate you would have to measure the vertical movement of the piston for each position requiring a measurement.
The piston can move significantly more (or less) depending on where it is in the stroke
Piston moves faster/further towards bdc
good video Tinman. I clip the big end off a set of calipers to measure inside the cylinder to see how much I've cut.
Dig it
Thank you for the knowledge
I’m just starting
this is awesome
Another great vid, glad I haven’t started porting yet 🙂, thanks Tinman
More great info! Thanks for sharing buddy! You are the real deal! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Haha stop you're making me blush ☺
Thanks for your knowledge
this is great, did just watch ironhorse video about porting too. great to see bouth of you porting
Instead of dykem a sharpie is sharpem, that's a Keith Fenner ism. Thanks for another informative video!
thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge
''Turn the saw backwards'', Tinman opens a portal to chainsaw hell. Hey mate, best info yet. You're a good man. I'm guessing thats a Mac shaped grin on your face, I couldn't spy any Mac bits on the bench. That AM homelite cylinder still hasn't come in, I'm not ignoring you. I'll get you pics when I can. Cheers
Awesome video man. I've bought a couple of cheap Chinese saws just to try this. Cylinders are removable unlike a poulan and only like 15 bucks for a new piston, cylinder, rings, bearing and gaskets. It's great like 60 bucks i have 4 top ends to experiment with. The first one i bought was a 62cc coochear and was definitely cheap and not worth the 135 i paid for it, and it's only a 58cc cylinder and they charge more for the 62cc version. The second saw i got on sale is a 58cc garwinner... 107 bucks and worth every penny 😂 everything interchanges between the two and the engine is designed after a shawinda. Timing numbers and port designs are a bit funky and the 25:1 oil ratio is a bit much but I don't have to worry about mosquitos when im cutting lol. A base gasket delete in itself woke the saw up alot and the bar is just a k095 Husqvarna mount, coupled with a new 3/8 drive ring and you have a decent saw that's cheap to fix and experiment with. Eventually I'll have the confidence to do one of my Husqvarna or maybe one of my 056's but for now this little garwinner is impressing and crap out of me.
Not sure how many times I’ll watch these before I actually port one but it will be numerous! Thinking the Dolmar will go on the block first. The pioneer and Homelite’s might be harder to get parts for if I screw up🤣😛 Thanks for sharing bud!
Good vid. Methods make sense. Thanks fella
Tinman buddy always good info in the vids..
One day I may work up the courage to port my old Dolmar 116 just for fun; it still cuts very well but after watching Buckin' with that Homelite you ported for him I started dreaming.
Very informative sir. If you knew someone at Yamaha Racing you could get the paper sleeve for the cylinder you were talking about with pre-proven port locations, you just ground to the template. no degree wheels just grind and they always worked great on their bikes. Someone else did all the experimenting for you. Takes a bit of the fun out but when you are dealing with pricey multicylinder 2 strokes that may not have individual jugs it could save a costly disaster.
Thanks Tinman!
Watching Buckin' play with that Homelite makes me giggle!
Haha me to buddy!!
What a great video! 👍 Thanks buddy! Found some interesting videos and some freeware to make tuned pipes, done by auMecanic.
Good show!
Damn Good Stuff Brother!
Calculating piston movement can be done with math or online calculators. Some online calculators you can set them up to calculate every degree if you want. Just need stroke and rod length. Piston movement follows a sinusoidal curve if you graph it out. Just don't know if it is possible to find rod lengths.
Did I just find a fellow Manitoban building saws? Thank you for all the info by the way be cracking into my first saw soon! Got bit by the chainsaw bug by a couple old mccullochs and homelites we found in the dump and got running.
Well brother I'm the 4th one to day..lol..nice video
I'm a machinist, and use layout fluid, but use permanent marker a lot too, cause it's so convenient. It works out to right around .010" thick, which can be real useful, if you are cleaning up stuff on a lathe, it lets you know, oh, if it left the marker over there, it's .010" lower than where it cut the ink off.
So are you referring to the thickness of the scratches?
REALLY GOOD EXPLANATION
Thanks Oldtimer!!
I'll be there 👌
Freeporting usually happens when you go crazy with popups and cutting cylinder bases, or like tinman said, when you do piston swaps.
Tiiiiiiiinmaaaaaaaan.....💚🌳💚🌳👊👍
You do sound like a broken record. That’s what a lot of us need to remember what you’re teaching. The more you teach it the better of a chance that we’ll remember it. Please play that record some more.
Tinman you rock I came across a pair of 365 xtorks one runs fantastic but has every bolt hole striped the other saw ran straight gas and roasted big end but case bearings seem smooth do you know of any bearings I can use instead of the nylon cages? I am buying after market cylinder kit for my first port job just in case shtf I have fixed and collected a had a ball doing it but now I just have to start porting thank God you are going slow we all appreciate it congratulations on how fast your channel is growing I for one am not surprised.
Videos have been awesome. Really appreciate the time and effort you put in them. You may have touched on this,but what is your feelings on ignition timing( moving key in fly wheel to advance)? Also when using ring method to measure for numbers, will a domed piston changed your numbers compared to a flat top? Im talking about the curvature of the piston pushing up the inside of the ring to raise it slightly? Thought of it when you was talking about " seeing first light" compared to ring measurement on the exhaust port. Awesome sauce goin on there, keep it up 👍
A domed piston wont usually effect where the ring stops I find. Timimg advanaces are not usually necessary in my experienece.
Another great one! Why clean??? Can’t find nothing if it’s clean? 😂😂😂
Not Bad , Tinman , Just a little confusing!
Good day, I once herd Harv mention using the crank to scoop air and I imagined blower motor of a furnace style, or even similar to the rotor . Could you use that, what about a expansion chamber pipe out of ductwork tin and self-piercing screws, clamshell airbox cover with some crimping tool marks? Belhopper has one on alcohol with a mini moto-cross pipe. Could we see the “Tinman Special” in the future? I hope this got ya smiling just imagining things
I'd like to see some of your work on the old L65
I have to ask Tinman , when you discovered the 102 deg timing from your book and the 105 you were getting using the ring holding the cylinder down with your hand . Was the ring on the piston in the ring groove when you took the first ray of light reading and now you are pushing it with the piston crown ? So you can not possibly get a repeatable reading if thats the case
The distance the piston moves changes with every degree- it’s constantly accelerating an decelerating...
How well does smoothing and polishing the ports help on a saw? I polished out a LawnBoy years ago and it ripped, but its also only a 3600 RPM limit engine. No timing changes just casting flash and smoothing
Grind the ports to nearly where you want them and finish off the last half millimetre ( 20 thou ) with hand files. Any mistakes are tiny and easily blended in.
Love the port in videos but what if your transfers open at a 132ﾟ and u move them to 120 to 125 what are you gaining
Tinman, at @20:35 you said the reason we turn the wheel backward to verify intake timing is because it is measured ATDC and if we went forward we would have to go all the way around, pushing the ring to the squish-band. I am having a hard time visualizing this, it seems to me that if you turned the wheel forward and stopped at 122° BTDC you would be in the same spot?
How do you allow for the gasket between the cylinder and the crank case?
Funny how less and less people (likes) lived to Part 5 :)
Hello tinman . I have a question if I take .025 off the bottom of my 038 cylinder witch way wood the timing numbers go ?
I was thinking , after grinding the port , is it possible to mask off the cylinder and just have the part you grinded, then using grinding paste ,
Polish the the grind you did to really smooth it out ?.
I have an '89 Husqvarna 61. My cylinder and piston need replaced as they are scored fairly decent. This has been a workhorse of a saw for me for a lot of years but recently have been running the hound out of it. I am interested in replacing both of those and am curious if you'd be interested in selling me a cylinder and piston that has been slightly ported (or just cleaned up for better than stock performance)?
Make it giggly!!!!! tee hee hee
I looked at the first cylinder I did that day WTF did I do, but it works. Lines are NOT straight but they are close to my numbers.
I know this video is a bit old, so i dont know if youll see this question. When you thought the exhaust roof was 102, you planned to raise it 2 degrees to 100 to play it safe, and suggested no more than 4. When you used the ring and realized the exhaust was actually 105, shouldn't you have raised it by 2 to 103 (or 101 if raising 4deg)? Just curious why u stuck to 100 after finding out your initial number was off by 3deg.
so, do you not want your intake timing to be that low? I missed something.
Tinman, You move things around to much or to fast to actually see what you want us to see. Thanks
hi tinman do you have a green pioneer p-62 rebuilt and ported good runner, pulls chian real good plenty power for sale price reasonable cutting big wood need more power let me know ASAP 12 26 2021
bang a S /and S carb on there she be good
Another simple method to measure how far the piston moves per degree is to divide 180 by the stroke.
I may be wrong but the math on that comes to around .0075 per degree on this saw. Tinman measures .015, I'm curious on why that is?
I'm wondering about how many .001" per degree? I'm thinking at 90* before and after TDC/BDC you would get a higher measurement per degree of timing. For instance at 30* you might only get .007" instead of .015" at 90*. Just like you have several degree's of dwell at TDC/BDC. Think I'll check next time I tear down a saw. I've only ported one, so what do I know LOL. Thanks again for the video series.
Correct
I have done a base gasket delete on one of my saws. If it is cold it runs fine, but as soon as it gets warm it starts getting very fat at the low jet. Then it gets boggy and turns off. I checked the squish. It is at about 13 thou. Could this be the problem? In addition it doesn't start again once it turned off. Maybe you can help me with that.
Yeah .013 is pretty low I have always been told .20 I did .017 before and the cylinder left marks in the crown of the piston
ring don't lie...trumps anything.........hmmmm I tought it was the other way around
free port during med and high rpms set crankcase on fire 660 kits said improved ports more power , squish was terrible, no power kick back so hard . Like to broke my fingers ,
102 was with the gasket in
So off of your numbers grinding down too 100 and transfers open at 122 then thats 22 degrees of blowdown?
Yep
Which brand of carbide burrs would you recommend?
Why did you deside on 2 deg for you intake grind?
An educated guess is all
What is your thought on timing advance?
Some saws like it, most dont need it I find
We May Need Some More Help!!!!
If you want more power why not just buy a bigger saw?
Weight mainly. Bigger saws get very heavy
Also you talk about people e-mailing you? Haven't come across an e-mail address, hoping you are reading the comments. I want to port another 350, 359, and a 262.
Sorry I was sitting watching your video and it hit me that Canada and most other countries use the metric system. With that being said your measuring in thousandths of an inch! Why? Are there Metric calipers? Tim Horton's is in the Northern part of the U.S. at least New York it's just lich Dunkin only a slight difference between them. My home brew is better.
Why port a saw that is about blow up? Put a colder spark plug in and get to work.