I like seeing this done by one person because this is how I work. None of my guy friends that own cars work on them or get work done until things go wrong. I'm doing all of these things on my MK4 GLI...great work and info!
It's a bit annoying how the actual bushing removal and installation parts are omitted, I guess that's the part I wanted to see. But great info about the brake lines etc, thanks for even trying to show us what to do.
This is the next thing i have to do with my jetta,recently got the bushings and hardware and the tool to get the bushings in,definitely nit looking forward to doing it,but as always seeing the steps on your videos gives me a better understanding and some confidence, so thanks dude!!!!
Thanks dude, i can use my shop lift for this. This seems easy enough. I have this most annoying clack at my rear over small bumps that annoy TF outta me as i like to drive with my windows down when i cruise an all i hear is that irritating clak clack clak over any lil bump. I thought it was my shocks or the brake pads of the BBK but they were all solid. So im gonna change these bushings to solid ones. I got Stop Techs rear steel braided lines which are long AF an allowed me to eliminate the middle lines, so no need to bleed the brakes again. I will do when i decide which rear sway bar to get an install my coil overs all at once. I have the front Audi TT that goes under and debating on the top sway bar with the solid engine mounts. Deciding on the control arms, should be the stiffest ride ever lol.
I did this on my 2002 TDI Golf and Jwagon. Also steel braided brake lines and an ADDCO Rear Anti-sway bar Bar Diameter: (0.875in). The bushings and anti-sway helped tighten up the tracking. This gave the car neutral steering in corners. Best mods after getting better tires.
Use your jack in the middle of the beam and lift it slowly once your close enough to the mounting holes thread in a bolt by hand one on the left and right. Your jack will be doing all the heavy lifting all you do is ligb up the holes.
Out of all the different versions of the rear beam bushings, which do you think would be best for a mildly tuned daily? (was also looking at those rubber upper shock mounts ecs has) how long did the grease last til it started to sqeak again?
You must think you are working on a Corvair...LOL!!!...3/8 and 7/16 wrenches....Duh...VW has always been metric...11mm...12mm. You have 16mm socket... so go buy some metric wrenches so that you don't destroy your nuts!!!
What are the symptoms of these bushings needing changing. I ask because recently I had a bump stop fall through the rear coil and I wondering if movement in the rear axle caused this. I have a vw Bora or in America it's know as a vw Jetta.
You get very odd tail movements also bad tire wear in the rear. Some people call it a floaty rear end because the bushing keep the rear straight once worn our the rear tends to move a lot
@@PincheALsGarage my AGU rear axel has 21mm 1j0500051j roll bar but many new ones seem to have the 18mm 1j0500051k not sure how much difference it would make
I like seeing this done by one person because this is how I work. None of my guy friends that own cars work on them or get work done until things go wrong. I'm doing all of these things on my MK4 GLI...great work and info!
go go power ranger! 165k miles on my Golf 2.0L. New bushings, springs, mounts, seats, and struts. Thank you for the motivation
It's a bit annoying how the actual bushing removal and installation parts are omitted, I guess that's the part I wanted to see. But great info about the brake lines etc, thanks for even trying to show us what to do.
This is the next thing i have to do with my jetta,recently got the bushings and hardware and the tool to get the bushings in,definitely nit looking forward to doing it,but as always seeing the steps on your videos gives me a better understanding and some confidence, so thanks dude!!!!
anytime man its what we do here to show that anyone can do this work.
Dude this videos needs more love saved me the mess of going into my rear beam removal blind…. Love the content brotha! Keep it comin!
Glad I could help
thanks I had always thought of not completely removing the
rear bridge but now seen your video you have removed all doubts
Before you even cleaned it. I could see that's the cleanest rear beam I've seen....period
Thanks dude, i can use my shop lift for this. This seems easy enough. I have this most annoying clack at my rear over small bumps that annoy TF outta me as i like to drive with my windows down when i cruise an all i hear is that irritating clak clack clak over any lil bump. I thought it was my shocks or the brake pads of the BBK but they were all solid. So im gonna change these bushings to solid ones. I got Stop Techs rear steel braided lines which are long AF an allowed me to eliminate the middle lines, so no need to bleed the brakes again. I will do when i decide which rear sway bar to get an install my coil overs all at once. I have the front Audi TT that goes under and debating on the top sway bar with the solid engine mounts. Deciding on the control arms, should be the stiffest ride ever lol.
This is technician style walkthrough. well done. love it
Actual removal and installation of bushes should be shown all the way through.
I did this on my 2002 TDI Golf and Jwagon. Also steel braided brake lines and an ADDCO Rear Anti-sway bar Bar Diameter: (0.875in). The bushings and anti-sway helped tighten up the tracking. This gave the car neutral steering in corners. Best mods after getting better tires.
The rubber just came out of mine. Don't have any goo in there at all. Just was flakey rust chunks
Awesome walk through! Need to tackle these on my wagon. How hard is it to get the beam back in afterwards! Again Awesome video!
Use your jack in the middle of the beam and lift it slowly once your close enough to the mounting holes thread in a bolt by hand one on the left and right. Your jack will be doing all the heavy lifting all you do is ligb up the holes.
Out of all the different versions of the rear beam bushings, which do you think would be best for a mildly tuned daily? (was also looking at those rubber upper shock mounts ecs has) how long did the grease last til it started to sqeak again?
I can’t find any videos of someone using an extractor tool
I bought one but don’t know how to put it together to press it out
Hi did your wheel go out when bushing crack?
Did you wheel go out when bushing is crack?
You must think you are working on a Corvair...LOL!!!...3/8 and 7/16 wrenches....Duh...VW has always been metric...11mm...12mm. You have 16mm socket... so go buy some metric wrenches so that you don't destroy your nuts!!!
By George your right!
What are the symptoms of these bushings needing changing. I ask because recently I had a bump stop fall through the rear coil and I wondering if movement in the rear axle caused this. I have a vw Bora or in America it's know as a vw Jetta.
You get very odd tail movements also bad tire wear in the rear.
Some people call it a floaty rear end because the bushing keep the rear straight once worn our the rear tends to move a lot
What's the name of this rubber cups. Looking for them on Google and don't know what to type.
Hello you say all the same in the back but there is a one with 21mm sway bar and one with 18mm sway roll bar what size did you use is your gti
That is for the front sway not the rear beam
@@PincheALsGarage my AGU rear axel has 21mm 1j0500051j roll bar but many new ones seem to have the 18mm 1j0500051k not sure how much difference it would make
I need to know how much it's going to cost me to have this job done?... 😅
If you want a shop to do it they might charge about 2 to 4 hrs of labor plus parts. So you looking around $300 to $600