Duramax Overheating Issues SOLVED: Top 5 Cooling Mods
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2024
- Once you've reached the upper echelons of work truck stress, you will inevitably experience overheating issues. In this video I give you the top 5 cooling mods I've personally done to my LB7 Duramax "Pig the Alaskan Overland Rig" that have helped me bring my engine and transmission temps down to a manageable level.
-Aftermarket transmission cooler: amzn.to/3JzUMaw
- Intercooler Pipe Kit: https: //amzn.to/3vXyAnH
- Cold Air Intake: amzn.to/4a84MTn
- Down Pipe: httpsamzn.to/4b4lgwV
-Turbo Horn: amzn.to/3JAFZMU
-BD Full Bore Exhaust Manifold: amzn.to/49QvZJV - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Bacon... 🥓 😋 ... saved
Hey there Koosh, hope you're doing well way up there in the great far North!! I finally got my LB7 going again, after it sat for almost 3 years due to getting a lot of fuel leaking into the oil. I just installed the sac 45 over injectors. Whoever did the previous work shouldn't be allowed to turn a wrench!! I found lots of f- ups before and after the valve covers were removed and most likely why the truck was up for sale. I've been wrenching for over 50 years, but this was my first time doing any diesel injectors. What a pain to take apart, much easier going back together! A couple examples of problems I found... Most nuts and bolts, WAY over tight including rear valve cover bolts was the biggest time consumption, HP fuel lines, return lines and the injectors. Bottom valve cover gasket on DS was sagging inside the cover close to the valve springs leaving a gap across most of the topside. This BS is exactly why I never want to pay someone else to repair anything.
Anyway, I wanted to ask a few questions because I didn't find any of your videos about it.
Keep in mind, my truck is still bone stock except these new sac injectors and the intake resonator delete.
What, if any improvement did you notice after you installed your same injectors and what is the typical (not heavy footed) mpg you get?
Also, when you removed the intake heater element and installed that light bulb, have you had any issues tripping any codes since then?
About that boost valve, any knowledge about all the cheaper aftermarket brands compared to PPE?
And finally, I bought the PPE standard excellorator for diagnostics and hopefully a tune. But everytime I check balance rates, the screen freezes after a couple minutes. Has yours ever done that?
My ABS light is always on, probably due to solder joints in the EBCM that I need to fix yet. PPE says thats probably why the screen freezes up.
Im thinking its a faulty PPE Excellorator.
Sorry if this was too much at one time.
I appreciate the time you take to make your videos. It really helps out a lot of people when it comes to doing repairs and also getting to see all that beautiful Alaskan scenery too. 👍👍
Cheers from Texas!!
Hello in Texas! Good to hear from ya. Man, sounds like whoever worked on your truck before you didn't pay attention to the torque specs, and that seems to be a very common problem. Those rear valve covers were an absolute pain the arse, too. At least you got er put back together how it should be and she's in good hands.
To your questions: MPG after SAC 45s. You know, I had a slight bump in MPG after I did the exhaust porting, then a drop in mpg after I installed the injectors. It seems like the absolute best route to even that back out is to get an EFI live tuned for those specific injectors which will account for the larger nozzles, and pull back the fuel throughout the entire map. My guess is a big savings would be made especially during idle. I have a full time cabover camper bolted onto the bed of my truck. Town driving with lots of starts and stops, I see 12-13mpg. When I'm overlanding and driving long distances, I see up to 16mpg. If I dumped the camper, I'd probably see a couple mpg bump, and even more if I had a custom tune, accounting for all the mods Pig has.
Air intake light bulb mod: no codes for it after the bulb install! Such an easy and slick mod to do if you delete the heater plug. Make sure to use an incandescent bulb, and not an LED. The LED's don't provide enough resistance to pass the ecm check.
PPE Boost Valve: You know, they are such a simple design that I think you'd be just fine using one of the cheaper brands. I think you can find the cheaper brands on amazon for somewhere around $15 vs $30 for the PPE.
PPE Xcelerator: Such a sweet tuner. I have not had screen freeze issues at all, and I'm suspicious of that having anything to do with the ABS system. That tuner doesn't read or interact with the ABS system to my knowledge? I had to buy a completely different scan unit to troubleshoot my ABS issues. Did PPE provide a logical conclusion as to why they think that's the issue? If not, then I'm with you in thinking that the PPE unit is faulty.
Hey man, thank you for taking the time to watch my videos and ask questions, got me in the right mindset to tackle these ball joints today! Cheers 🍻
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Hey, thanks for the reply. You're always willing to take time respond 👍👍.
Yeah, whoever worked on this truck before I bought it was definitely not a mechanic. Even the seals on the fuel return lines were not installed correctly and twisted when over tightened. Most likely why it was leaking fuel into the oil. All is good so far, runs great and the dipstick level stays the same. So I must have done something right, lol.
It's a yes on the incandescent bulb. I'm slowly upgrading things as money allows. Just got a new airdog 5g 165 to install, that was Cha Ching, not cheap!! Then the intake and exhaust downpipe swap in a couple months. Will probably go with the EFI live after that. Maybe upgrade the turbo sometime down the road, unless it fails sooner for some reason. Just trying to have reliability and the best mpg. Mine is a 2500hd, so I should get a bit better mpg than your 1 ton dually.
PPE kind of gave me an explanation but that was almost 3 years ago and I can't really remember what he said now. They did say they tested it before they sent it and had no issues. I've never had any code reader/scanner screen freeze up like this one does. The ABS light was on when I bought the truck and sometimes the brake light randomly is on and off too. That's why I believe it's the EBCM solder joints. A very common issue with Chevy/ GMC trucks. Should've been a recall just like the factory LB7 injector issues.
I try to keep comments short but sometimes its hard to do.
Keep up the good and informative video's and everyone appreciates your replies!! Always looking forward to what's next!!
Cheers 🍻
@UnitedWeStand2020 glad it's runnin good for you now! I've heard of some lb7 guys with the extended cab short bed get some crazy mpg like around 19-22 mpg. I'm shooting for as high of mpg as I can get. I imagine when I finally retire my oem transmission and move my camper to a different truck, ill be able to squeeze a few more out of it. Longer I can stay on the road the longer i can stay out campin!
As always, great info, great explanations. Appreciate your videos. Thanks man
Thank you brudda! 🍻
The Down pipe is a cold air intake on your description
Doh! I'll update that. Thank you for telling me 🍻
Alright, I fixed it. Thanks again for letting me know!
Wow..... I've never seen my last lb7 motor go over 205 and trans over 165. This one i just bought, drove 6 hours on I95 @80+ mph non stop, motor never got over 183, and trans barely touched 110.
Heck yeah man, sounds like you had a good runnin machine! Those old mountain logging roads in the dead of summer with my camper on the back used to give me some trouble, but not anymore! 🍻
@@KooshdaakaaGaragehey, have you done anything with the pcv lines? What's your thoughts on a catch can closed loop "venting" to the drain pan? The mess venting to atmosphere leaves is atrocious
@@mariocorleone106 You know, I haven't put too much thought into pcv routing until mentioned it. So i've spent some time this morning wrapping my head around it and here are my initial thoughts: the pcv system is there prevent excessive pressure build up in the crankcase. Venting back into the crankcase could have negative adverse effects such as over pressurizing the crankcase and popping the rear main seal and such. Also, I'm not sure how keen I would be venting those gases back into my oil. When the gas cools it becomes hardened which could paste up your oil. All that said, my question is, why is it leaking so much oil? I mean, I have other oil leaks so maybe I just don't notice it coming out the pcv vent hose 😬 I've heard of some guys extending the vent hose and that seemed to help. Also, if you haven't already, I'd verify there isn't excessive blow by coming out the oil fill which would indicate excessive crankcase pressure. I'd also check the oil to make sure its not over filled, and make sure you aren't "making oil"/ filling the crankcase with diesel, which of course indicates other issues. Before I changed my injectors I had excessive crankcase pressure due to an incorrectly installed injector, so that might be another consideration. I think the last thing I'd check is the pcv valve, that is supposed to limit oil flow out the vent tube. If all of those things are in working order, and you are still leaking oil out the vent tube, then we can go back to the drawing board to see if we can figure something else out. Thanks for the question! That woke me right up 🍻 Alright, time for me to change ball joints.
My last lb7 had a SB cold air intake with an oiled filter, was going to do the same, but what's your reason for a dry filter? Getting the down pipe off.... OMFG what apita.
The dry filter, I like those for the dusty logging roads. They have a lower micron rating and don't get clogged up quite as quick. When I'm talking dust clouds I mean it looks like a sand storm when driving the dually down some of these roads! Lol. So for me it's just simpler to get a dry filter, blow it out with the air compressor every once in a while and swap it out with a fresh one every so often.
Fuel cooler 🙃
🙂
uh huhuh huhuh you said unit
Lol 🤣