Yamaha V Star 650 Simple Oil and Filter Change
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- As well as regular servicing, changing the oil on a new bike is always a good idea unless you have well documented service history showing it was done right and recently.
Engine Oil and Filter Change On Yamaha XVS 650 Drag Star V Star
ASE Master mechanic, clicked on your vid just to see where the filter is, YOU MADE THIS THE MOST COMPLICATED OIL CHANG i HAVE EVER SEEN ...... EVER ! AS long as the pickup is covered their is no danger, two quarts, run it, then top it off. SIMPLE.
Simple, maybe. But what I'm showing is exactly how Yamaha prescribe the process.
put 3 quarts in with a filter change and you are done, there is no where else the oil can go
@@MsHooper101 no it's not as simple as that is it supposed to be halfway up the sight glass all the way to the very top what
@@kenwittlief255 I'll know when I change the oil now my bike is leaking oil out the cover didn't do that before I changed the oil everybody's telling me I'm over full of oil well we're in the hell on that sight glasses at all levels supposed to be
the cover over the filter uses a gasket, if didnt leak before, logic tells me you made a mistke, retrace and you will figire it out,, if you are not savey to the ways of re-sealing oil filled part,s, some research may help, these junks are easily injured, if you are not mechanically at leastt a novice, get someone els to do it or help you,
Great video! Would love to see more of these for the XVS650. Well done!
Thanks for that. More will be coming as I work through the bike. Skäl. David
A neat tip is I use aluminum foil over exhaust pipe so no oil cleanup. Great video. I have 08 Midnight Custom Raven I also recommend orings be replaced for safety imo. Cheers👍
Great tip David. Ah the good old o ring discussion! Some people change them, some don't. Both camps can be very vocal about it. I fall somewhere between the two camps. Skäl David
Had some smoke coming from my oil filter housing took a look and saw a small leak dripping onto my pipes. Gonna use this video to do my first oil change tomorrow. Thanks for the full walk through and explanations.
Good luck!
Clymer manual states 32 ft lbs for drain plug. Side covers @8 ft lbs. I have same bike. Never thought of starting bike off and on to load filter. Great tip. Brilliant🔧
That sort of tip is why I try and search for the factory manuals when I can. Skäl. David
I always use the torque wrench, esp for the side covers and other 8 ft lb fasteners, becaue its way easier to strip those than a 32 ft lb plug
I looked for a smaller torque wrench, just for those - you can get little ones rated in inch-pounds, some are like screwdrivers.... still looking
Hi just a little tip, If you leave the filler cap on until after the sump bung is removed the first rush of oil will be slightly less and then you can remove the filler cap and let air in speed up the flow out the sump. I like your style of presentation very watch able, you should have many more subs than you do. keep up good work, Cheers John
Cheers John. A great practical tip. I must admit that I usually forget to take it off until after anyway 🙄. Skäl. David
A little fiddly but still simple enough, great stuff Dave 👍🏻
Cheers. Always a new challenge on a new bike
Really enjoy your video. Great presentation. You made my first oil change on my v star go easy. Thank you.
Cheers Shane. Great to hear that you succeeded with that. Well done 👍 Skäl. David
Nicely done video. Kudos for the torque wrench!
you dont need to check the level when you fill it.
With a new filter it always needs 3.0 quarts.
on every other change when you dont change the filter it needs 2.8 quarts.
Just pour it in. Check the level after riding it if you want, it will always be correct.
this eliminates the need to put the bike on a jack too, you can change the oil just fine with the bike on the kick stand.
Thanks. Running by quantity works 99% of the time - why wouldn't it? But never can be relied on with a new bike or if your bike has developed a problem. Always best procedure to not make assumptions because it will always bite you sooner or later. BUT! It's your bike so do what works for you. Sometimes what I do and what I show are not the same, because I take responsibility for my own risks.
@@MotoMirius I dont see your logic
when you drain the oil there is no place for it to be trapped, causing you to over fill it
if you buy three 1 quart bottles you dont have to measure anything, you put all three bottles next to the bike, and you make sure you did not forget one...or two
when you put the oil in there is no where else it can go - what problem can an engine have where it absorbs oil?
Ok... while typing this, I guess if this is the first time you change the oil, or if you are filling it from a 5 quart bottle, or the phone rings in the middle and you wander off to do something else and come back later, yes there is the possibility of making a mistake, and checking the level when you are all done doesnt hurt anything.
BTW, you have one of the better oil change videos here, a lot of people make videos when they dont really know what they are doing.
When taking an oil drain plug out I find its easier to tap the wrench handle with a small hammer to break it loose - they are torqued on pretty good, and using brute force you can mash your knuckles when it lets go.
I have that same oil drain pan, I hate it, its an ordeal to pour the oil out into a waste oil can.
I have 50k miles on my 650, and I have never checked for oil flow to the top of the front head. These bikes will normally last 100,000 miles. I guess the question is, if you check the flow at the top of the cylinder every time you change your oil, and one day it doesnt flow... you are looking at what? breaking the case and replacing the oil pump, the bearings, the crank shaft? It seems that if the engine is worn enough that the oil doesnt reach the top, what are the odds that you will happen to just catch it at a 4000 mile oil change?
100,000 miles is 25 oil changes - if you check it at each one seems like you are likely to bugger up that 14mm plug.
This is the process that the Yamaha engineers dictate for this bike. Can you do it other ways, yes of course, but that is not what this video is for. @@kenwittlief255
Nice one. Wish I'd found it before I did my change as I just found the washer as I was pouring the old oil out of the pan. And already filled it up with new oil. No leakage yet...😅
Lol. Fingers crossed then! Thanks
yeah the yamaha oil change challenge !! on the singles its even more faffage...
I think my xjr is just normal but I haven't looked closely got the manual though just in case ..
good job Dave great advice buddy .👍
Thanks Springy. The XT600 was a pain too, but largely because it was dry sump and they are always a challenge to get the oil level right.
Hello there! New subscriber here. So, how did you get that 650 to sound so good? I would LOVE my bike, a 2011 xv650 , to sound like that.
Hi Michael and thanks for subscribing. The bike came with the exhaust so I can’t claim credit. But it’s running drag pipes with baffles. The baffles are key to good sound. Too many people just look for loud but tone is far more important and anyway open drag pipes are terrible for performance. Skäl. David
Are you a teacher by profession by any chance ? That was very informative and concise as well as entertaining.
Thanks Marty. Well I'm glad it was entertaining, that is all I ever hope for! Nope, not a teacher, though I did spend quite a bit of time teaching when I was younger, I guess it carries over in your style.
Another bike in the stable? Looks great and sounds tasty
Cheers GT. Yup, making some changes to suit my current riding needs - that and looking to making some mods.
Great sound!! Which pipes kind are you using?? Really luv them
Thanks. I’m not sure of the make. Previous owner fitted them and there are no markings, but I love the sound. Like a lot of drag pipes you need a baffle otherwise they sound horrible. Skäl. David
Did you know if you use a Box wrench you can get the Oil drain bolt from the bottom. I also use a small amount of RTV gasket maker to make a good seal to the oil cover. Also don't forget to change the Rear-ended Def oil too (you'll need 80w-90)
Difficult to torque with a box wrench but yes otherwise. Yes, diff oil also has a replacement cycle just like the fork oil. Thanks
@@MotoMirius
@@MotoMirius crows-foot
Awesome video man. Keep it up
Thanks. Much appreciated. Skäl. David
Sounds like a stupid question but I'm trying to find the main fuse for the exact bike here this is a great series thank you for what you do I'm downloading it right now and God bless you Godspeed You wouldn't believe the problems I was having with the battery change and I'm part Grease Monkey ,laugh my effing ass off!(lmfao)!thanks!😆😅🥰psHey, hey since I brought up the battery whilst I was struggling finding the right bolts and tightening them down with all them damn words that were on there on the positive side I sparked at a couple times hitting it with my brunch don't you think that that's probably why now all the sudden my bike is just completely dead because I blew the main fuse I mean that's my guess I hope that's what it is I just can't find the damn mean one I found it one on the compartment side that holds the spare ones I think they're spare ones but I'm looking for that mean big one mean not mean stupid microphone sorry thank you God bless godspeed too haha
Ha yes, that might have done it. They can be found in different places on different years, but since you haven't seen it under the seat then they often hide under the side covers. Good luck and thanks!
Hi David, great video, well done!!!
But let me ask you a question...
I've been changing the oil of my motorcycle (XVS650) directly on Yamaha, but this time I've decided to change by my own hands and I have a doubt about the oil filter, you mentioned on video that you have used a K&N oil filter (Is that right?), so, have you the code of this filter or the link on internet that you bought it?
Because here in Brazil all people that I have talked about this filter, they said that is the same that is used on XVS 250 (Virago)... Had you heard about it? Sounds a bit awkward for me...
Thanks in advanced!
Hi Jerônimo and thanks. Oil filters are quite generic and often fit a range of bikes. The KN-145
www.knfilters.co.uk/yamaha/xvs650-v-star-classic/650/2005/
also fits other bikes as you can see by clicking on vehicle applications
www.knfilters.com/kn-145-oil-filter
I would always recommend double checking filters against the year of your bike to avoid issues. Skäl. David
Great video, David! Just a quick question though; is it absolutely necessary to check the oil pressure if the bike has been running smoothly for the past 1000km or so? Thanks!
Thanks. That’s a great question. The point of servicing is to catch problems before they become things you need to repair. Just because the bike has been running smoothly doesn’t mean that it will continue to do so. Skäl. David
Moto Mirius that makes sense. I’m learning a lot from your videos. Great work and thanks for the reply.
Moto Mirius just watched the segment again and noticed that your fins are not uniform in color. I have the same issue with mine. Any method to make them shine again? Thanks.
@@teh1owner If you mean the edges of the fins? The alloy needs cleaning. The simplest way is to use a small foam block with some say 400 grit emery and carefully rub side to side, or you can use one of those blocks you can buy. This is a job I need to do on this bike but the black paint on the barrels and heads could do with being redone at the same time. It will happen when I get some other jobs out of the way.
Moto Mirius thanks for the tip! Have a great week.
Hello!
What is the brand of the socket that you are using. I've been having real difficulties finding a tool to get a firm grip on the drain bolt. I've been searching for the floppy socket and so far have turned up no results for it. It's such a tight space, the extension on the ratchet doesn't allow a snug fit onto the drain bolt either. Thank you!
From memory it's Sealy, but you need a short six sided socket and a wobble bar extension so that you can get past the frame tube.
Excellent video. Pretty complicated to change oil in the XV650 that is for sure. I think I'll pay to have it done. But I wonder if at a dealer they are as careful as he is to do the job right?
If the dealer follows the factory manual then they will do it right. If it's not a dealer you take your chances. Skäll David
the 650 is actually pretty easy, esp if you are not doing the filter (only need to on every other oil change)
the 1100 requires pulling part of the exhaust off
the Royal Star V4 1300 is really easy, it uses an exterior screw on oil filter (like a car), and you only have to change the oil every 8000 miles (water cooled)
the bike is designed for road trips, you can go NYC to LA and back without having to change your oil
S U P E R Video, danke und mach weiter so
Thank you and you are very welcome.
I had my vstar650 custom 2016 model re jetted and and new air filter with a Dyno tune and it has since started blowing blue flames out of the top exhaust pipe and it pops when idol. It has V&H short shots. Can anyone help me with what's wrong with my bike please?
Why do you think something is wrong with your bike if the bike has been on the Dyno? Short shots look and sound great, but my engine builder advised me against them on my Sportster.
Really Good Video! Easy to understand, even for Guys from Germany!
Thanks for a lot of Tipps, of Real experience.
Thanks Erik, that is really much appreciated! 👍. Skäl. David
Thank you for good video!
Thank you Denis. Much appreciated. Skäl. David
Will point out from a bike mechanic perspective, K&N Filters, Oil or Air are garbage, you're better off with OEM Filters as they are half the price and do the same job as all you're paying for are Brand Names.... A Friend of mine doesn't stock K&N Filters in his shop and the amount of young fools coming in wanting K&N filters because they've been told they are 'Better' .... Not worth it at all.
EDIT: Also great video, my nephew showed me this as he just bought a 650 Vstar Classic and pointed out the K&N Filter.. heh.
Thanks. To be honest I rarely use K&N, just happened to have one for this oil change. Nothing wrong with stock filters.
When you were sneaking up on the torque value for the drain plug you failed to mention the number. You mentioned the 8 n-m for the oil pressure bolt or plug but nothing about how much torque for the drain plug.
Thanks for spotting that. I will pull the manual and see if I can put a note into the video. 👍. Skäl. David
Wow, well done thx 👍
You are welcome
Hello, I'm little concern. In servise they change oil on my dragstar 650 classic 2001. They fill with IPhone 15w50 full sintetic! Is that bad for motorcycle? Please some advice. Thanks in advance
So long as it’s a motorcycle specific oil then there should be no issue with modern fully synthetic oils. I would be more concerned as to the quality of the oil and manufacturer than whether it was synthetic or not. It is an oil recommended for the dragstar by Ipone. Whether it is the right grade will depend on the temperatures where you live. Skäl. David
Tnx for answer. In Serbia is Mediterranean climate. When they change oil, when is engine cold and start it i hear some rattle noise in front of engine, later when engine is warm up noise disappear. No one know what it is. Someone tell is chain tensioner.....?!? Milage on motorcycle is 9000 miles.
@@MrSalepetrovic Hard to diagnose engine noises remotely. I assume it started after the service - but could be related to something they did during the service and may not relate to the oil. Bear in mind that Harly make and recommend a 20w50 fully synthetic oil for their V Twin engines when reading my comments. If a manufacturer like Ipone or Harley recommends an oil for your bike, they are admitting liability if it were wrong. Personally I find 15w50 to be quite a thick oil and I worry about its ability to flow to the heads when the bike is cold. Harley claim their oil has good cling properties which allows it to remain in place until the oil pumps properly again. The oil used when building engines also has this property, so it's a reasonable claim. I don't know if Ipone also claim this property but I recognise that they recommend 15w50 Katana in the Dragstar for temperature ranges 5 to 45 C. For where you live this seems OK for summer but I would have chosen 10w30 or 10w40 as this is recommended down to -10C. I don't recall the head design and oil feed system in the Dragstar but it could be that there isn't enough oil getting to the heads when they are cold - as the bike warms up and the oil thins out, this changes and the noise goes away. Or it could be unrelated to oil. Still it seems an odd choice of grade unless the temperatures where you are exceed 35C in the Summer when they changed the oil. In which case it would be the right oil.
Thank you for this vid sir...I have dragstar 400 2004 model, how many liters of oil i need for oil change sir? Thanks
Hi, I don't have that information although I think that the later models have a 3.2l capacity. However, you don't need to measure it - you just need to refill it to the correct level and to check it after running the engine, especially if you have changed the filter. Hope this helps. Skäl DAvid
And if you are still unsure, then make sure the oil level is correct before you start working on the bike. Then drain and measure the oil that you remove. You will lose a little in the process, but you will be close enough that you can be confident that you will be close to the right level.
Great stuff, have you ever experienced after oli change that its as if the clutch stiks when the engine is off? And do you have a video on cluch cabel adjustment
Thanks. I’ve not had that issue. Did you use a motorcycle grade oil? Car grade oils can have additives which can cause issues. I don’t have a clutch adjustment video yet but I will consider doing one. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius yes I went full synthetic 15w-50 recommended by a yamaha shop here.
If your oil is ok then it suggests clutch issue most likely is a coincidence.
@@MotoMirius tested it today on a long drive, while driving and when standing still with engine on cluch works perfectly, no slipping or non engaging. But as soon as engine is off it won't roll in gear with the clutch in. Thank you so much for youre time. Will you do suzuki vzr1800 at some point?
I don’t have that bike so that won’t happen. Sounds like you might need to pull the clutch apart and see why it’s sticking. Plate teeth might be wearing.
Yes more videos I have a leak under my motor I think it’s a oil leak wanna know how to change it myself
It’s in the part your working on idk if the person j let work on it didn’t tighten my bolt
Without knowing which bit I was working on I can't help but - yes, if something isnt properly tightened then it could be an issue. You would really need to take it apart and check it - for example it might be a gasket. Good luck
Ok you say the oil levels full where on that side glasses oil is supposed to be you don't show that
Side glass has marks on to indicate where the level is supposed to be. Apologies, I made an assumption that this would be obvious - but of course it isn't.
Thanks
Welcome. Skäl David
How long does it take to drain out?
Just a couple of minutes. Don't over think it.
so to go to a class like this would be about two or three hundred bucks...thx
Thanks, you are welcome!
Where'd you find the O-Ring?
Yamaha dealer. If you find the part number from the online parts diagrams you can just do a search online.
@@MotoMirius awesome thanks! And any recommendation of how to prevent flash rust on a tank after flushing it with distilled water? (Besides refilling it with fuel)
@@pmarkpmark Almost impossible to stop bare steel flashing to rust in an enclosed damp environment. Try and dry it out - compressed air, hot air, put it somewhere warm etc
What kind of oil should I put in my 99 650 v star classic I keep seeing 10w-40 then another video will say 20w-50 or 40
Oil selection will depend on where you live but standard for the XVS is 10-40. Very few bikes, and I don't think any Japanese, just some like older Harleys run 20-50 which is a car weight oil because they are running a 1940's technology engine.
@@MotoMirius thank you👍👍
@@MotoMirius I have a cv-twin I live in Massachusetts so it doesn’t get incredibly hot during the spring woukd u recommend 10w-40 or the v twin 20w-40
@@MotoMirius I just really wanna make sure I don’t put in the wrong oil
Or sorry 10w-30
Can you tell us what torque wrench you are using?
Hi Dean, apologies for the delay. That is a Norbar torque wrench, don't recall the model off hand. Skäl David
Wow this bike is an absolute prick to get the sump bolt out. Had no idea did my 250 in 40 mins I thought the 650 would be the same.. boy was I wrong. Took 3 hours to get it all sorted
Great positioning of that frame rail isn't it?
you just need the right socket and extension... just like in the video
How manny foot pounds did you usted to tigth the oil screw???
Which screw are you referring to? The drain or the filter?
@@MotoMirius the drain screw
Oil drain is 43Nm which according to the online converter is 32ft lb
What's happening with your Lomax build?
Hi Mark. It was supposed to be a winter build last year. I’m still waiting for my broken arm to finish healing as all the Lomax bits are too heavy to lift with one arm. It will come soon! Skäl. David
Sorry to hear that, hope it heals quickly and stronger than ever.
Thanks for the video I should have watched this before I started it. Lol the 250 was much easier
Glad you figured it out anyway! Skäl. David
Just use a wrench for the drain plug
You can do that. I just don't have any 6 sided wrenches which I prefer for undoing what might be a tight bolt. Skäl David
Its too easy to strip out bolts in an aluminum engine if you dont use a torque wrench and the proper setting
if you dont have a socket and extension (3/8 drive) that fits then you cant use a torque wrench
Jeeze dude can you drag this out any longer ?
I see you don't understand how to use CZcams. Go to settings, choose playback speed - I recommend 1.5 as a starting point.
Sell me that tank on your shelf for the 1200 Custom HD :D
One day maybe, Still considering putting it on the XVS. Skäl David
@@MotoMirius i accept that, i just love the color scheme on it, got a 1200 custom myself, had the xvs650 before, i'm currenly helping a friend with his 650, and one thing made me wonder, isnt the oil suppose to 'cycle' like crazy when looking at the sight glass and turning on the engine and letting it idle?
@@filmfreaken Wouldn't normally expect to see much oil movement in a sight glass, often it drops out of sight while it's being pumped around the engine. It's only on dry sump engines that you see the oil being pumped.
@@MotoMirius that makes me so happy to hear :)
Get a torque wrench but I am not going to tell you what the torque should be. 300 lbs? 😂😂
So much unnecessary talk, it's good to talk about the details but...
Oil and filter changes are a common starting point for people new to working on bikes. They need more hand holding than the more experienced. If a video is too slow I recommend using the speed feature to run it a bit faster. Skäl. David
It's nice to have a little more knowledge than needed when you have no mechanical experience ! Found the video very informative and easy to follow , cheers !
David.
Looks like you used a 3/8” drive on you shallow 17mm 6point socket?
Was the extension a swivel head or the 17mm socket ?
I spent 3 hrs and then gave up cause I was nervous about rounding the bolt head with the spanner.
I watched your video again and might give it another go.
If I understand your question correctly, it’s a wobble extension bar which allows you a small angle into the back of the socket. Or use a spanner with six sides.