Peter , you should make a part list for this modifications or make a " kit " to sell , i know already a few guys would would gladly invest to get this for their bike .
Awesome Peter. Thanks for detailed explanation. HONDA LOOK AT THIS - IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN COME SO STOCK!!! Who will do exercises with 50 pounds or more on a brake when two fingers can do the same?!!?
Great job, Peter. I made the same modification on my Africa Twin 2016 but i completely removed the parking brake system and brought the parking brake (hydraulic lock) from Bullet Brake LLC. Everyone can install this simple item on both brake levers to lock front and rear wheels. Only one thing thing is need to change, after removing parking brake system is the rear brake carrier, i took shorter one from standard manual Africa Twin. And without OEM parking brake caliper it is easy to remove and install the rear wheel.
You got a part number for the Africa twin? They don't have it under the dropdown menus. I wouldn't mind doing that mod in the future when I have a few extra bucks.
Amazing job bro, if you could've done a detalied parts shop list & step by step install & setup, that would've been gold 🤩 Yet again, thanks for the insight.
BTW I love the BnB skid plate and tail rack. Once I get around to it I will be doing the same skid plate with HEED crash bars....actually HEED isn't shipping to the states right now. So Ill have to wait till after the pandemic. AUS has a lot strong great gear for the Africa twin, I went with the Motoz tires.
I ended up using the Hepco Becker Tank Guards (Upper Crash Bars) with the reinforcing bar that runs across in front of the radiators. I'm still waiting for the reinforcement bar. The BB Bash Plate/engine crash guard is compatable to fit the Hepco Becker. I had the Hepco Becker fitted when they did the design and manufacture of the bash plate/engine protection guard. BBOffRoad do a great job. This is the best engine protection I've had. All BBOffRoad aluminum plating is 5mm thickness. It's not cheap Chinese aluminium, it's good quality.
hello Peter, many thanks for this presentation. I was really long time looking for such a solution, is great to know that one could actually use Honda's own product to do this. Could you please post the X-ADV's P/N that you used and how long was the new hose length that you required. I have 2017 DCT and would like very much to use your system. Great job!
Peter this is GENIUS! I have been wondering why Honda did not put the left brake on the handlebars, it would make slow handling of the DCT SO MUCH easier. Thanks for filming this, I'm doing it.
Great Video Peter!! I just picked up the same bike yesterday. Did you post all the part numbers for the mod here somewhere? I looked through all the posts and don't see them. Maybe I missed it? The LHRB mod works amazing on my dirt bike so it's a must for this beast....
Thank you for posting this! I am starting that mod tomorrow and unfortunately will be piecing it together. I am using a specific CNC block at the foot master cylinder instead of tapping a bolt, and now I’m thinking I’d rather tap the bolt in. Lol. I’ll see how the block works and will let you know if I decide to use that method. Thanks again man!
For my 2017 model, I originally sourced a HoHey fitting but, it only attached to the rear foot master cylinder with 1 screw. The pressure applied from the front left master cylinder forces the fluid out around the HoHey fitting.
Here is a link to the HoHey fitting. www.hoheydesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=popup_image_additional&pID=199&pic=1&products_image_large_additional=images/kjv_joined_2.png
Peter Mansbridge well crap. That is the one I bought, and it looks to be the same as the sic shop one. Guess I will have to tap the foot MC. You are the first person who has given me any feedback for that part.
@@petermansbridge1 I got the project done and it works better than I expected. So I took the adapter to a couple machine shops and pipe fitting places and picked their brains the other day. The machinist were hesitant to suggest tapping the cylinder and the pipe-fitters suggested a larger/thicker o-ring. I found a larger o-ring that I really had to force on there and I sealed the flat surface with JB-Welds gasket maker, clamped it, and let it set. HoHey designs also added a safety wire slot on the opposite side as the screw. I currently have a ziptie holding pressure on the system for 24hrs to test it and help with the bleeding process. My test ride in the neighborhood was definitely an eye opener on how useful this mod is going to be. Ill be doing a write up and youtube video on my process and items used. Ill let you know when its done.
Great video. I have the new NT 1100 (I think it is very similar to Africa Twin) and I would love to make that modification on it. Could you please post the X-ADV's P/N that you used and how long was the new hose length that you required?
Peter, great video. Three questions: 1- how much did this entire mod cost you? 2- would you consider leaving a list of exact quantity and part numbers rather than a link to the parts page? 3- because some of the parts are not available to order to the US, would you consider putting a kit together and sell it directly? I am new to the AT and have already met quite a few people who would buy it from you directly. Thanks Peter!
Peter, love ur fix for left hand, I just got a 2020 ARSA, I need the modification a would appreciated if you can send a part list or if you already posted to link, I live in Thailand. Thanks
Peter, does the X-ADV LH master cylinder setup come with the wiring that you spliced into the front brake's MC, or did you have to make your own? If you did make your own, what did you use for connectors?
I know this is an older video but do you remember the dimensions of the brake line. I want to have this done to my dct bit the shop won't make the brake line.
Hi Peter. Can I first say this is a great video, explaining the mods necessary (indeed essential) which Honda should have done in the first place. I have a question. You said in your video on the conversion of your earlier AT that you could have connected the new left hand master cylinder hose directly into the ABS controller (presumably into the hole into which the hose from the foot brake master cylinder). I know you decided instead to take the new brake hose to the original RB re-threaded master cylinder. If I was to elect to use the ABS connection method (and dispense with the foot brake and master cylinder completely) will the new stock hose connection go straight into the ABS unit without modification. Also is there a downside to direct connection directly into the ABS controller ? I know your video is quite old now but if you could reply I would very grateful. Thanks.
G'day Ian, You can connect directly from the left-hand master cylinder to the ABS Servo unit. You can delete the rear barske foot pedal and master cylinder. The only problem of using the existing OEM rear brake hose that runs from the rear mastercylinder to ghe ABS Servo unit is that, i don't think it wouldn't be long enough to reach from the left-hand master cylinder on the handlbar down to the ABS Servo unit.
Hi Peter mod looks great … thank you. Also could you tell me what make is you sump guard with the attached engine bars and what upper bars do you use ?
Very professionally done! You should submit for a patent. What do you think of just utilizing the parking brake with a lever replacement to handle low speed technical situations? Would you see a problem there?
The parking brake us not strong enough to pull the weight of Bike up even in slow conditions such as descending down hill plus, the parking brake does work in with any of the electronic aides eg the Rear ABS in off road mode etc.. I have never had any issue with my system. It works!
Excellent Mod. thanks so much for sharing this Peter. With no feeling in my right foot slippery downhills have proved a little hit and miss so this mod will make the world of difference. I have all the parts on order now and just waiting for them to get here. Just one question. Did you get a custom brake line made up or did you find a stock one that was the right length. (if so which one?) Thanks once again for taking the time to share this
I had the brake hose made to length by my local bike mechanic. You should get a measurement to suit, as depending on bar risers etc.. the length can vary,
That wheel looking thing near the seat is commonly called Steg Pegs. These I made myself from rubber door stops. I made a bracket to bolt into the lower treaded hole for the rear foot pegs. They assist in allowing you to lock your legs in better for technical riding.
I want to take this one step further and have the front on the left and rear on the right... comming from a DH/enduro MTB background this is whats natural for me.. any reason why not? and yes, I do now regret not riding a UK-setup on mye MTB-bikes....
Yes you can. Also, with regard to rear wheel ABS, If you are in Off road mode, the ABS will allow the rear to lock up, it will sense the action of the brake force via the ABS Servo. It's called intuitive ABS, it's bloody good.
Nicely done. What about using the rear brake as a parking brake and getting rid all the parking brake components ? You've engineered a nice lock mechanism for parking brake, why not do the same on rear brake ?
G’day Sven, Two reasons, Firstly, I like having the park brake where it is, as it’s easy to operate in difficult terrain. Secondly, as the bike is still under manufacturers warranty, if I remove the park brake completely, the dealer has advised that I would void the warranty.
@@petermansbridge1 The Parking break could be an elektro hydraulic one on the rear master cylinder operated with a bottom like the one on modern 🚗 cars 👍
I'm not sure if you will see this or not but I am wondering what the piece/fitting is that sits in between the brake line you had made and the rear master cylinder metal body, down at the bottom. You point to it in your video, and say that it is threaded, but my bike does not have that piece and I have no idea what it is!
The original setup doesn't have a thread inside the rear master cylinder where the brake fluid does into the master cylinder from the rear brake fluid reservoir. In order to run the brake hose from the left hand rear on the handle bar into the rear brake master cylinder, you require to thread the inside of the rear master cylinder and a bolt to be able to screw into the rear master cylinder to hold the Banjo bolt from the hose running from the left hand front master cylinder into the rear brake master cylinder.
@@petermansbridge1 I understand that completely BUT, in your video, there appears to be a piece (which is metal...looks like it has some stamped numbers or letters on it) in between the rear master cylinder and the brake line you have attached to it. My '22 ATAS ES has the rear reservoir brake line spring-clamped to a black plastic nipple, held on by a single screw and it then has an o-ring between it and the master cylinder opening. When that plastic piece is removed, the large opening of the master cylinder is fully exposed. It appears you have something directly in between that I cannot identify.
Can you clarify how you spliced the wiring? The left-hand brake switch only has 2 wires and the right-hand side has 4 wires coming out of the brake switch. Thanks!
I’d be interested too… with the current model having Cruise control does it pick up the signal from just the rear brake light wiring or do you splice into all 4?
Hi Peter almost completed the installation but one small stumbling block. The OEM seal between the part newly threaded for the banjo bolt and the master cylinder will no longer seal because of the added stresses of the attached brake hose and the fact that the fitment is just a piece of plastic held on with a VERY small screw at the bottom. I notice in your video this OEM plastic part has been replaced with what appears to be a nut. Can you please tell me how you got that to seal? Thanks
You have to tap a thread into the mastercyinder so, that banjo bolt can be screwed into that mastercylinder. If you don't tap a thread into the mastercylinder the bolt won't hold.
Sorry to hassle you again Peter but I'm scratching my head here. If I tap directly into the master cylinder which is a 15mm hole I will need a 16mm banjo bolt which apparently you cant get for a bike hose. You video shows what appears to be in order the head of the banjo bolt, brass seal, hose eye, brass seal then what looks like a nut instead of the OEM plastic fittings, rubber oring then master cylinder. It's that extra nut looking thing that is my missing piece. What is that?
Yes there is, however, the left hand rear brake requires to be able to do the same, and this method is the same way the Honda X-ADV Scooter is actuated.
@@petermansbridge1 I must be missing something. Aren't you pressurizing the line from the stock rear master cylinder and won't that activate the stock hydraulic switch? The scooter wouldn't have that hydraulic switch if it doesn't have a rear brake pedal.
EDIT, I got to examine a bike and found that the rear brake switch is mechanical, not hydraulic, explaining the need for a switch on the new master cylinder. I have to wonder why Honda used a 70's technology switch rather than a current hydraulic switch though.
Hi, great video. Did you have any trouble with the teardrop pushing out when the brake is operated? I have done the mod, but the brake is soft and when I look at the teardrop I can see the pressure pushing it out. Any thoughts?
G'day Nick, The banjo bolt that is being screwed into the rear mastercylinder at the foot brake requires that master cylinder to gaveca thread cut into it so that, you can secure the banjo bolt into the the rear foot mastercylinder.
@@petermansbridge1 Thanks for the reply. I'll have a go at getting someone to add a thread to it. I'm assuming I need a longer banjo bolt as well. For the moment I have it secured with a hose clamp, seems to be doing the job.
The Bash plate and rear top luggage plates are from BBOFFROAD in Australia. As my bike was used to make the templates etc.. these are a Prototype. Here is a link to their website. You can make contact with them direct. bboffroad.com.au/shop-by-bike/honda-products?p=5
@@petermansbridge1 In B&B Off Road Shop say that Bash Plate it is for CRF 1000 L ! Can i put it on CRF 1100 L i mean if that fits on both models without having to change anything ?
On a DCT the rear brake is stupidly important. You need to use it to load the transmission in technical terrain for steady power delivery. Otherwise DCTs can be a little sketch at low speeds. You don't have a mechanical clutch for low speed maneuvers to smooth out power. So you use the rear brake.
Here is a link to the parts list. www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-SCOOTER/X-ADV/2017/ADV750LH/Frame/REAR-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER/93002/F_15/2/28742
I don't know if you guys are finding better deals than this but checking online here from the US as that scooter isn't available here in the US. I found this site that looks promising to me especially due to free shipping to the US for this amount of money. Hope this helps someone. 👍 www.cmsnl.com/
Sorry, but I simply don't see the point of all this. it is clear peter has gone ot a lot of trouble and should be commended for the engineering of it BUT . . . why?? So much trouble for what - I don't understand why go to all this trouble. Why move the master cylinder is one question. What's wrong with using it like it came from the factory. I just don't get it.
Peter , you should make a part list for this modifications or make a " kit " to sell , i know already a few guys would would gladly invest to get this for their bike .
There is only 1 question that no 1 can answer , what part was used to tap into the rear master cylinder ?what bolt was it
This is absolutely brilliant, and I'm going to be looking at the possibility of performing this modification on my Rebel 1100 DCT
Awesome job. Very clean, and I like that you can use either. Thats one good looking motorcycle. Thanks for your time Peter
Awesome Peter. Thanks for detailed explanation.
HONDA LOOK AT THIS - IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN COME SO STOCK!!!
Who will do exercises with 50 pounds or more on a brake when two fingers can do the same?!!?
Coming from a Vespa GTS I am going to do this on my future bike. Its really handy to have these break options :-)
Amazing job!
this is a great build! love the factory look but id like to see a better parking brake relocation. excellent work!
Great job, Peter. I made the same modification on my Africa Twin 2016 but i completely removed the parking brake system and brought the parking brake (hydraulic lock) from Bullet Brake LLC. Everyone can install this simple item on both brake levers to lock front and rear wheels. Only one thing thing is need to change, after removing parking brake system is the rear brake carrier, i took shorter one from standard manual Africa Twin. And without OEM parking brake caliper it is easy to remove and install the rear wheel.
You got a part number for the Africa twin? They don't have it under the dropdown menus. I wouldn't mind doing that mod in the future when I have a few extra bucks.
Bullet Brake Model - BB-05
Standart Honda OIL (banjo) BOLT - 90145MS9612 (10X22)
Amazing job bro, if you could've done a detalied parts shop list & step by step install & setup, that would've been gold 🤩
Yet again, thanks for the insight.
WOW !! clever man , some of us have most don't ... I don't !! should patent that Peter , you would make a fortune
Great job!
BTW I love the BnB skid plate and tail rack. Once I get around to it I will be doing the same skid plate with HEED crash bars....actually HEED isn't shipping to the states right now. So Ill have to wait till after the pandemic. AUS has a lot strong great gear for the Africa twin, I went with the Motoz tires.
I ended up using the Hepco Becker Tank Guards (Upper Crash Bars) with the reinforcing bar that runs across in front of the radiators.
I'm still waiting for the reinforcement bar.
The BB Bash Plate/engine crash guard is compatable to fit the Hepco Becker. I had the Hepco Becker fitted when they did the design and manufacture of the bash plate/engine protection guard.
BBOffRoad do a great job. This is the best engine protection I've had.
All BBOffRoad aluminum plating is 5mm thickness. It's not cheap Chinese aluminium, it's good quality.
hello Peter, many thanks for this presentation. I was really long time looking for such a solution, is great to know that one could actually use Honda's own product to do this. Could you please post the X-ADV's P/N that you used and how long was the new hose length that you required. I have 2017 DCT and would like very much to use your system. Great job!
Hawk Eye, did anyone ever post all the part numbers needed for this mod? I don't see them in any of the posts below?
Peter this is GENIUS! I have been wondering why Honda did not put the left brake on the handlebars, it would make slow handling of the DCT SO MUCH easier. Thanks for filming this, I'm doing it.
Good job thanks
Great Video Peter!! I just picked up the same bike yesterday. Did you post all the part numbers for the mod here somewhere? I looked through all the posts and don't see them. Maybe I missed it? The LHRB mod works amazing on my dirt bike so it's a must for this beast....
Thank you for posting this! I am starting that mod tomorrow and unfortunately will be piecing it together. I am using a specific CNC block at the foot master cylinder instead of tapping a bolt, and now I’m thinking I’d rather tap the bolt in. Lol. I’ll see how the block works and will let you know if I decide to use that method. Thanks again man!
For my 2017 model, I originally sourced a HoHey fitting but, it only attached to the rear foot master cylinder with 1 screw. The pressure applied from the front left master cylinder forces the fluid out around the HoHey fitting.
Here is a link to the HoHey fitting.
www.hoheydesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=popup_image_additional&pID=199&pic=1&products_image_large_additional=images/kjv_joined_2.png
Peter Mansbridge well crap. That is the one I bought, and it looks to be the same as the sic shop one. Guess I will have to tap the foot MC. You are the first person who has given me any feedback for that part.
@@petermansbridge1 I got the project done and it works better than I expected. So I took the adapter to a couple machine shops and pipe fitting places and picked their brains the other day. The machinist were hesitant to suggest tapping the cylinder and the pipe-fitters suggested a larger/thicker o-ring. I found a larger o-ring that I really had to force on there and I sealed the flat surface with JB-Welds gasket maker, clamped it, and let it set. HoHey designs also added a safety wire slot on the opposite side as the screw. I currently have a ziptie holding pressure on the system for 24hrs to test it and help with the bleeding process. My test ride in the neighborhood was definitely an eye opener on how useful this mod is going to be.
Ill be doing a write up and youtube video on my process and items used. Ill let you know when its done.
@petermansbridge1 what part eg bolt was used to tap into the master cylinder please I really need to do this mod 🙏
Great video. I have the new NT 1100 (I think it is very similar to Africa Twin) and I would love to make that modification on it. Could you please post the X-ADV's P/N that you used and how long was the new hose length that you required?
Great video! Please tell me where you got that rear luggage rack extention that goes over the pillion seat.
Hi Peter, could you tell me about the parking brake level you've used instead of OEM item? Was you able to mount it without any changes?
nice job.can you give me the part numbers for all the bits i will need
Hi Pete I would love to tap my rear master cylinder just don't know what part I need to get it topped into
Awesome mate I've followed your guide and set mine up the same thanks. Now can we have a video about your "steg pegz" setup please. 👍
Yes, ok, I’ll do a video and include “Steg pegs”😀
What part was used to tap into the master cylinder?
Peter, great video. Three questions: 1- how much did this entire mod cost you? 2- would you consider leaving a list of exact quantity and part numbers rather than a link to the parts page? 3- because some of the parts are not available to order to the US, would you consider putting a kit together and sell it directly? I am new to the AT and have already met quite a few people who would buy it from you directly. Thanks Peter!
Peter, love ur fix for left hand, I just got a 2020 ARSA, I need the modification a would appreciated if you can send a part list or if you already posted to link, I live in Thailand. Thanks
How long is the new brake line to the masterbrake box? I have to order the line, but I need the correct length. Thanks.
Hi, sry for my Englisch. It Was a Problem to fit the skidplate from bb offroad... or the luggageplate? Can you pls make a video from it? Thank you
What year of scooter are the mod parts taken from? Or better still, what are the part numbers?
Thanks for the video, I love your setup. Also which high fender kit did you go with?
Altrider.
Excellent idea ...I like it ..gr8 job..do you have the part numbers so I could order this ..many thanks 😊
Peter, does the X-ADV LH master cylinder setup come with the wiring that you spliced into the front brake's MC, or did you have to make your own? If you did make your own, what did you use for connectors?
You'll need some your own wire and it only requires small blade type female connectors to join to switch block.
what foot pegs are those and will they work with the 2017 non dct model?
I know this is an older video but do you remember the dimensions of the brake line. I want to have this done to my dct bit the shop won't make the brake line.
Hi Peter. Can I first say this is a great video, explaining the mods necessary (indeed essential) which Honda should have done in the first place.
I have a question. You said in your video on the conversion of your earlier AT that you could have connected the new left hand master cylinder hose directly into the ABS controller (presumably into the hole into which the hose from the foot brake master cylinder).
I know you decided instead to take the new brake hose to the original RB re-threaded master cylinder.
If I was to elect to use the ABS connection method (and dispense with the foot brake and master cylinder completely) will the new stock hose connection go straight into the ABS unit without modification.
Also is there a downside to direct connection directly into the ABS controller ?
I know your video is quite old now but if you could reply I would very grateful. Thanks.
G'day Ian,
You can connect directly from the left-hand master cylinder to the ABS Servo unit.
You can delete the rear barske foot pedal and master cylinder.
The only problem of using the existing OEM rear brake hose that runs from the rear mastercylinder to ghe ABS Servo unit is that, i don't think it wouldn't be long enough to reach from the left-hand master cylinder on the handlbar down to the ABS Servo unit.
Hi Peter mod looks great … thank you. Also could you tell me what make is you sump guard with the attached engine bars and what upper bars do you use ?
The bash plate/lower crash bars was a B&B Off-road prototype however, try now have them in. Production.
The upper crash bars were Hepco Becker.
Very professionally done! You should submit for a patent. What do you think of just utilizing the parking brake with a lever replacement to handle low speed technical situations? Would you see a problem there?
The parking brake us not strong enough to pull the weight of Bike up even in slow conditions such as descending down hill plus, the parking brake does work in with any of the electronic aides eg the Rear ABS in off road mode etc..
I have never had any issue with my system.
It works!
Excellent Mod. thanks so much for sharing this Peter. With no feeling in my right foot slippery downhills have proved a little hit and miss so this mod will make the world of difference. I have all the parts on order now and just waiting for them to get here. Just one question. Did you get a custom brake line made up or did you find a stock one that was the right length. (if so which one?) Thanks once again for taking the time to share this
I had the brake hose made to length by my local bike mechanic.
You should get a measurement to suit, as depending on bar risers etc.. the length can vary,
@@petermansbridge1 thanks for that Peter
Hi ,i have the master cylinder i need a link to the break pip banjo bolts washers and the part i need to tap into my old master cylinder
Can you send me a list of all the parts? I don’t know if I can get them in America.
Hi Peter, any chance you’ve got a list of the OEM part numbers you used?
Thanks
Best wishes
Pete
www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-SCOOTER/X-ADV/2017/ADV750LH/Frame/REAR-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER/93002/F_15/2/28742
Hi Peter, Thanks for this... Can you please tell me, what the the wheel under the seat is for ?
Best.
Francisco (From Chile, South America)
That wheel looking thing near the seat is commonly called Steg Pegs. These I made myself from rubber door stops.
I made a bracket to bolt into the lower treaded hole for the rear foot pegs.
They assist in allowing you to lock your legs in better for technical riding.
@@petermansbridge1Thank You !!
I want to take this one step further and have the front on the left and rear on the right... comming from a DH/enduro MTB background this is whats natural for me.. any reason why not? and yes, I do now regret not riding a UK-setup on mye MTB-bikes....
I don't see any reason why you can't do that.
Just change the brake fluid lines over that run from the levers.
Hi peter, I have a technical question, does the brake light signal work properly when braking is started with the left hand only?
Yes it does.
Watch the video from 8minutes 20seconds.
Can you lock up your rear tire using this left hand brake. Of course aftet disabling the ABS. Thanks.
Yes you can.
Also, with regard to rear wheel ABS, If you are in Off road mode, the ABS will allow the rear to lock up, it will sense the action of the brake force via the ABS Servo. It's called intuitive ABS, it's bloody good.
Nicely done. What about using the rear brake as a parking brake and getting rid all the parking brake components ? You've engineered a nice lock mechanism for parking brake, why not do the same on rear brake ?
G’day Sven,
Two reasons,
Firstly, I like having the park brake where it is, as it’s easy to operate in difficult terrain.
Secondly, as the bike is still under manufacturers warranty, if I remove the park brake completely, the dealer has advised that I would void the warranty.
@@petermansbridge1 The Parking break could be an elektro hydraulic one on the rear master cylinder operated with a bottom like the one on modern 🚗 cars 👍
I'm not sure if you will see this or not but I am wondering what the piece/fitting is that sits in between the brake line you had made and the rear master cylinder metal body, down at the bottom. You point to it in your video, and say that it is threaded, but my bike does not have that piece and I have no idea what it is!
The original setup doesn't have a thread inside the rear master cylinder where the brake fluid does into the master cylinder from the rear brake fluid reservoir.
In order to run the brake hose from the left hand rear on the handle bar into the rear brake master cylinder, you require to thread the inside of the rear master cylinder and a bolt to be able to screw into the rear master cylinder to hold the Banjo bolt from the hose running from the left hand front master cylinder into the rear brake master cylinder.
@@petermansbridge1 I understand that completely BUT, in your video, there appears to be a piece (which is metal...looks like it has some stamped numbers or letters on it) in between the rear master cylinder and the brake line you have attached to it. My '22 ATAS ES has the rear reservoir brake line spring-clamped to a black plastic nipple, held on by a single screw and it then has an o-ring between it and the master cylinder opening. When that plastic piece is removed, the large opening of the master cylinder is fully exposed. It appears you have something directly in between that I cannot identify.
Can you clarify how you spliced the wiring? The left-hand brake switch only has 2 wires and the right-hand side has 4 wires coming out of the brake switch. Thanks!
Yes, I'm curious how you spliced wires too. I just bought a 2021 AT AS and can't wait to do this mod!
I’d be interested too… with the current model having Cruise control does it pick up the signal from just the rear brake light wiring or do you splice into all 4?
Looking at the right hand brake, from the front of the bike. The set of terminal on the left side is where you tap the two wires coming from the LHB.
Hi Peter almost completed the installation but one small stumbling block. The OEM seal between the part newly threaded for the banjo bolt and the master cylinder will no longer seal because of the added stresses of the attached brake hose and the fact that the fitment is just a piece of plastic held on with a VERY small screw at the bottom. I notice in your video this OEM plastic part has been replaced with what appears to be a nut. Can you please tell me how you got that to seal? Thanks
You have to tap a thread into the mastercyinder so, that banjo bolt can be screwed into that mastercylinder.
If you don't tap a thread into the mastercylinder the bolt won't hold.
That makes sense. I've taped into the wrong component and thanks for the swift reply
Sorry to hassle you again Peter but I'm scratching my head here. If I tap directly into the master cylinder which is a 15mm hole I will need a 16mm banjo bolt which apparently you cant get for a bike hose. You video shows what appears to be in order the head of the banjo bolt, brass seal, hose eye, brass seal then what looks like a nut instead of the OEM plastic fittings, rubber oring then master cylinder. It's that extra nut looking thing that is my missing piece. What is that?
But what is the part used
Is there not an existing hydraulic switch on the rear brake to activate the brake light and cancel cruise control?
Yes there is, however, the left hand rear brake requires to be able to do the same, and this method is the same way the Honda X-ADV Scooter is actuated.
@@petermansbridge1 I must be missing something. Aren't you pressurizing the line from the stock rear master cylinder and won't that activate the stock hydraulic switch? The scooter wouldn't have that hydraulic switch if it doesn't have a rear brake pedal.
EDIT, I got to examine a bike and found that the rear brake switch is mechanical, not hydraulic, explaining the need for a switch on the new master cylinder. I have to wonder why Honda used a 70's technology switch rather than a current hydraulic switch though.
Hi, great video. Did you have any trouble with the teardrop pushing out when the brake is operated? I have done the mod, but the brake is soft and when I look at the teardrop I can see the pressure pushing it out. Any thoughts?
G'day Nick,
The banjo bolt that is being screwed into the rear mastercylinder at the foot brake requires that master cylinder to gaveca thread cut into it so that, you can secure the banjo bolt into the the rear foot mastercylinder.
@@petermansbridge1 Thanks for the reply. I'll have a go at getting someone to add a thread to it. I'm assuming I need a longer banjo bolt as well. For the moment I have it secured with a hose clamp, seems to be doing the job.
@@flyBwire hey,
I’m having the same problem,
Would you able to fix it ? And how , because i’m using a teardrop and ikeep having leaks
@@anasahajjout4326 I fixed a Hose Clip around the whole unit, that holds it in place.
@@flyBwire did you also get a longer banjo bolt ?
Thanks, good job. But as I saw the partslist, this mode isnt cheap...:-(
It cost me $366 AUD
@@petermansbridge1 I was wondering if they ship parts to US. Yes, this not a cheap modification.
Its the 'nut' you are pointing to at 2.23 mins
Can send me Preise the link for the skidplate and the luggageplate? Thanks
The Bash plate and rear top luggage plates are from BBOFFROAD in Australia.
As my bike was used to make the templates etc.. these are a Prototype.
Here is a link to their website. You can make contact with them direct.
bboffroad.com.au/shop-by-bike/honda-products?p=5
@@petermansbridge1 In B&B Off Road Shop say that Bash Plate it is for CRF 1000 L ! Can i put it on CRF 1100 L i mean if that fits on both models without having to change anything ?
Only one question.....why? What is the reason for this?
On a DCT the rear brake is stupidly important. You need to use it to load the transmission in technical terrain for steady power delivery. Otherwise DCTs can be a little sketch at low speeds. You don't have a mechanical clutch for low speed maneuvers to smooth out power. So you use the rear brake.
1
Here is a link to the parts list.
www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-SCOOTER/X-ADV/2017/ADV750LH/Frame/REAR-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER/93002/F_15/2/28742
Great, thanks!!
I don't know if you guys are finding better deals than this but checking online here from the US as that scooter isn't available here in the US. I found this site that looks promising to me especially due to free shipping to the US for this amount of money. Hope this helps someone. 👍
www.cmsnl.com/
Hi so I need to buy all this parts? Something additional ? Thank you for answer
Do we have to all 26 parts? Thank in advance
Hi Peter there is no mention for the part that u tapped into the cylinder
Sorry, but I simply don't see the point of all this. it is clear peter has gone ot a lot of trouble and should be commended for the engineering of it BUT . . . why?? So much trouble for what - I don't understand why go to all this trouble. Why move the master cylinder is one question. What's wrong with using it like it came from the factory. I just don't get it.