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Motorcycle Oil: The Good, The Bad, The Ugly.
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- čas přidán 22. 04. 2018
- In this video I wanted to take some time to sit down and go over some fundamental principles that you can use when it comes to understanding your bikes need for that oil change you have been putting off.
Want your bike to last? Feed it oil and filters. It will be worth every dollar spent and every mile reached.
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I recommend using "OIL". So far it has worked out for me as opposed to using "NO OIL".
I use canola oil in my scooter to save money I can spend on beer
Bdrift10 you are 100% right , never take advice from a guy wearing kitchen gloves and works on Handa .
@@matowixunplugged7927 if you put some salt in the gas, it makes salad dressing come out the exhaust.
Good call. That's advice I can USE!
I go with what the engine manufacturer recommends. Never listen to the oil manufacturer, or idiots in the youtube comment section....
BAM!
Bought my first bike 2 months ago... Can't wait to start taking it apart and learning how to do maintenance on it myself. Until then, very grateful for these videos to teach me what I need to know. Glad I found a trustworthy source.
Valvoline Dura Blend The best 4T motorcycle oil
TheMotorcycleMD I sure appreciate your time and effort and sharing the knowledge. Thank you very much Cody. You do a great job on these videos. I have learned so much from you and used the lessons with great success. You have helped give me the confidence to make sure my 93 F2 is going to be more reliable. My F2 is working the best it ever has since I bought a few years ago. I ride it almost every day at least long enough for a "love my bike run". True Story Man, Thanks.
I use Rotella on my $50,000.00 500 Cat and if it is good enough for that it will work on anything. Mine lasted 500,00 miles not problem. Also we used diesel generators in the oil field and on marine applications that never shut off and life forever by just keeping the oil filters changed regularly without changing oil at all.
I would trust anyone that has a Cat that cost $50,000.00 because you watch every penny
thanks Cody , I'm a backyard motorcycle-mechanic-wannabe , taking in every tutorial you put out , awaiting your next lesson.
You r right on brother. I have a Suzuki DL 1000 with 180,000 on it. Have serviced it dead on to your video. Never been in the shop a DAY! If people would treat their cycle to your advice, it would seriously financially hurt the motorcycle industry. Bikes would last 200k plus. Great video and ABSOLUTELY correct!
Thanks SID!! Your absolutely right! Unfortunately, people won’t listen. Budgets get tight and life gets busy. Keep up the great work brother! Ride safe!
Great job cody!! Thank you for such informations.
Watching every video.
I got a vlx 600 1996, almost did the carb settings with your help now it runs like a beast!!
The Rotella runners are a lost cause. "I run it in my earth mover so it must be the best oil for everything!" Frick'n hilarious!
A great "Oil" video, Cody, without getting into an "oil thread" endless discussion.
Great content, brother.
Thanks man!
One of the best informative videos on the effects of engine oil and motorcycle engine wear and tear. It also proves my point that you can never "over change" your engine oil and filters. I do not believe in extended oil drain intervals.
Learned a bit……. Did not know engines burn a quart per thousand miles!!!! Explains several questions I had on my vt1100. Thanks
Great video, not only this one. Very helpful and clear to understand, I will keep watching your channel. Greetings from Poland.
Thanks man! Greetings from Norfolk, VA!
Another great video, Cody. Thanks!
Thanks for all the info and tips you share! Definitely a great help to make sure I do a great maintenance to my Honda Tornado XR250 ;)
Greetings from Costa Rica buddy, keep it up!
Thank you for this very good explanation. I ride a Honda Transalp XL 600 V, 1999. It has just passed 120.000km / 75.000 miles. Has never been opened other than valve adjustment and oil / filter change within specs. I use the specified oil as in the manual, shift brands now and then, whatever is on sale of known brands.
Runs very good.
As long as you keep the oil fresh, you are doing better than most! Keep it going man! Good job!
I promise to change the oil more often than specs. At minimum once a year or 4000km what comes first. It is so easy to do and the cost is low.
Hey! You're videos are great man! Super informational in a very straight forward and understandable way. I also like that you aren't trying to sell anything you're just givin the facts as they are🤘. I just found my passion for motor bikes this last summer as I bought a 74 Honda and now I am intrigued to work in a repair shop. I am curious to know what steps you made in order to get where you are today. I want to one day soon be in a shop working on old bikes, it seems like a rewarding career. Thanks again for your videos and info to keep my bike tip top. ✌️
An older but invaluable video!
Very Good video Cody.. you explained exactly what dirty and long over-do oil change can do to the internal parts.
Stumbled onto your channel today......Great info,thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great video, Cody. Thank you.
Thanks man!
Great video. Very insightful
Good info. Never realized how dirt gets in the oil thru the intake valves. I ride alot of dirt roads. I will change my oil more often now. Thanks!
Absolutely!
Spacerider i would also keep a good quality and good seal around your airbox. Thats where most dirt gets in.
Chris B thanks for that tip. I will check that.
great, this video gives me lots of tips when it comes to maintaining my engine. thanks
Great job Cody! Thank you.
Thanks Chadd! 🤙
Just discovered your channel,wish I found it when I had my zrx1100. Those carbs gave me so much shit it had to go. You have me subscribed fella.
I love your videos. The knowledge you share is great. Thank you
Thanks man! Glad you enjoy info! I enjoy sharing!
Great topic - important stuff for those who want to get the most out of bikes.
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed it
Great and informative video.
Keep up the great.
My first bike was a 1978 xs 400 o bought from my neighbor. I sold that and bought my 80s nighthawk and have had nothing but Honda's since Go Honda.
Always quality video with some deep extras
Great video Cody I have a very basic thought process in life, listen to the professionals who you trust and go with it. I'm not a mechanic so grav knowledge where you can you are a great wealth of information!
i have buddies that change their oil in the off season and thats it. Gets a phone call and they ask whats ya up to. I say doing an oil change on the bike. Them...didn't ya just do that last week or 2 weeks ago.... Me yep but we did that 6hr run the other day and I have been driving it back and forth to work and a few 50 k unwind runs lol. I give the used oil (from my cars and trucks as well) to a company that cuts the brush for powerlines and highways etc etc to use for chain oil. They appreciate it and every xmas I get a bottle of whisky and a case my gf's fav wine. Oil is cheap. I can do an oil change cheaper than a bottle of whisky or a case of beer and neither of those last as long as the oil change. So good money spent.
Very interesting . New-bikes (with wet-clutches ) will 'shed' a large-amount of fibrous-particles until the clutch settles-down and 'beds-in' so an early-service is best . After watching an Aussie dirt-bike-racer , I now set-up all my tools etc for my oil-change Before I head-out for a ride. On returning, I change the-oil 'Instantly' to stop particulates dropping into crevices etc (requires rubber-gloves as oil is scalding-hot ) . After doing this for two-consecutive oil-changes my oil now looks nothing like it used-to . It remains so-clean compared to my previous 'regimen' of draining-it while it had 'some' heat . Clutch-particles are one of the-main-culprits for blocking filters and causing the valve to 'bypass' (where your engine circulates unfiltered-oil ) so I'd recommend changing-oil 300ks after a new clutch . My results have been the-same with : W650, GN250, XV1000 ( the XV was always the-dirtiest ) . If my eyes can see a huge-difference , imagine what a microscope would show . Dave nz
Cody ur the best. I wish i could work with you. Im a former Toyota and Honda tech. But i work on scotters. And now sell Honda parts. Your info is so informative for the noobs out there.
Glad you enjoy the content man! 🙌 Thank you for your Kind words!
You do a very good job teaching and explaining things. Happy New Year brother:)
Superb explantion of the types of oil and why changing it often is a very good idea.
Great video, thanks for the info.
I knew already what you said, but you explained it very well...
I finished this video. THANKS very informative.
First time I have watched your channel.... very well explained, I subscribed and I’ll check in to watch more ! Very well done.
Excellent video mate.Ride safe and have fun.
Hi there Cody,thank you again, for a great explanation ,of why we need to take precautions, with our oil usage,a crucial part of maintenance, thank you friend,Extremely Important !!😊😊😊
Great info. Can't tell you how often I see people who want to ride those 8k on their oil. Agree with you 100% 4k should be the absolute most for a bike you love and sooner if you can. Here in cali those miles go by so quick .. had to do changes 4 times last year.
Informative & useful. Thanx!
great video thanks for sharing and big love from saudi arabia 🇸🇦.
tatuksa Awesome to see the World wide love. Ride fast and ride safe my brother.
my 2007 small bike suggests 1500 mile changes, if i was an unaware person listening to you id go through 4000 miles...
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Pro Honda motorcycle oil (GN4, HP4 and HP4S) is made by IDEMITSU KOSAN. Head office is in Tokyo Japan. Idemitsu Lubricants America ( formerly known as Idemitsu Apollo) is located in Torrance CA. I called and spoke with their represetative and verified this. It's NOT made by Mobil 1 or anyone else. In fact, LCR Honda has a MotoGP Idemitsu sponsored bike that's riden by Takaaki Nakagami #30. Hope this clears up the myth about Pro Honda oil once and for all.
Great videos .. I've learned a lot. Thank you
love the way you explain these concepts!
Years ago I bought a new MV F1000. The dealer told me that the UK importer told them to onlu use Rock Oil Synthesis 10W60. I have only used Rock Oil in my bikes ever since, currently the 10W/40 grade for my Triumph Street Triple. This oil is a true full synthetic. Unlike some others, Rock don't bring out a new product with a new silly name every few years. I change the oil every 2000 miles or less.
Better go change the oil ha, great stuff mate , you explained it in layman's terms. Most people should get it excellent.
Cody I hope you don't mind Me passing on some knowledge I got in the 80's , I raced motocross , and raced 4 strokes at a time 2 strokes dominated the sport . I was lucky enough to finish my racing on a Mitsui Works Yamaha TT-600 that had be converted from its Enduro trim into a full motocross bike , The Engine is just like a XT-600 but it had a lightweight crome liner and used soft rings and the XT- had a soft liner and used chrome rings , The problem was the Transmission would over heat Oil would break down and Third gear would go soft and explode, Mitsui Yamaha contracted a university to go through and test every available Oil on the market at the time , and they found the Only oil that stood upto pressure and temperature was Shell Rimula X Diesel Oil . they tested expensive oils like Bell Ray and they all broke down with the exception of the Shell, They Raced the Bike for 3 years before I got it and I raced it another 3 with no gearbox failures and virtually no Engine wear , I used too change the Oil after every 2 meetings and the filter every meeting . Excessive I know but the Oil I drained was used doing Oil changes in My families cars ;-) . Just thought I would pass this on , I know Oil Tech has moved on a lot since then
Ryan, thank you so much for that input. The best information is tested and proven. Thank you for sharing that! Really love hearing info like this!
Thanks for the info there is always more I can learn 😃
I'm with you Honda is awesome!
Thanks man, good advice
Thank you for this video
Your welcome!
Great information
This is a awesome video - great stuff!
I use Rotella t-4 15w40 diesel oil in my Yamaha Roadliner.It calls for 20w50, but it shifts better on the Rotella
Shell Rotella T6 5W40 is the best oil on the markett,for bike tractor mower and all because i take some test with all synthetic oil and the T6 Rotella is the best in a World for me.
This was a great video...
These poor sods! Honda is a MOTOR company!!! I have owned all the Japanese brands over 45 years of riding. I even campaigned a 94 XR250R for 11 years for GNCC cross country and have scrambles. I never made it to the ISDN but that XR never coughed once and still had the original clutch when I sold it which I shouldn't have done, but life gets in the way. You are correct my man as far as engine oil there is none better than Honda pro engine oil!!!! In the gold bottle. And bless you for the resurrections to come. Peace
It's called total base number of the oil, the number the new oil starts with is the good addition of additives which help your engine, towards the end of the oils life the "TBN" drops off, and when it starts to drop off it goes exponentially. Hence the old saying as you yourself pointing out change your oil early rather than late. Hope this helps.
Won't use a grade other than the manual says but will not go 8k miles if it says so. Why?
Thanks for explaining
LOL on my 1984 VT750C Shadow...I don't have to CHANGE my oil EVER...I burn it enough I just ADD and ADD and ADD.... I'm about to take er on a long 1100km ride down into the States (I'm from Northern Ontario). I'm definitely burning a quart under 1000 miles so here goes nothing! Wish me luck I'm leaving Sunday!
Ram the point home. Good tutorials.
👍
86 Honda rebel 450 using Honda oil, However in maryland it's cold so I will switch to 5-20 for the winter synthetic oil till spring generally warm weather I go back to 10-40
Excellent explaintion
One of the best explanations on oil I have ever heard. Learned a couple things I didn't know. I have a question. I have a 2005 Shadow Aero vt750c. I've googled which weight of oil do I need. I've gotten 2 answers. 10w30 or 10w40. Does it matter which weight of oil I need?
This guy knows his sh*t. Very informative and accurate. Good video.
The main reason about high engine wear is overheating. Such situation happens mostly on air cooled engines because high temperatures reduce the clearance on moving parts leading to friction and severe wear. The radiator on a liquid cooled engine is the effective solution that improves the heat extraction avoiding premature engine wear caused by overheating.
The piston in your thumbnail needs higher octane gas. That piston is damaged by detonation
Good Demo. Most people should know this but it's surprising how many have no Clue.
No truer words have been said brother!
Also? Not trying to knock You whatsoever here TheMotorcycleMD.........BUT.............please,Please,PLEASE...........STOP referring to an Internal-combustion "ENGINE"..........as a "Motor"!!! That's all I ever heard growing up,UNTIL I found out,that a "motor" is NOTHING MORE than an electrically-powered device!!! NOTHING MORE!!! So to help You out.........since I learned the difference between the two.............from then on (many,MANY years),ANYONE who uses the term "motor" to refer to an "ENGINE".............I don't believe ONE SINGLE WORD of what they say regarding ANYTHING within that "Engine",due to their lackadaisical term-usage!!! Other than that,Great video my Friend!!! Am now a subscriber!!! ~Peace~
menom7
Really not trying to start anything but I'm 67, Raced motorcycles, and cars. My whole life I've heard Motor. Yes, technically a Motor is a Baldor, or other brand elec. motor but, all I've heard is Motor for a car engine. Maybe it's just a USA thing, or a Slang term. Either way we know what he's talking about. Take-Care.
Haha,All Respect given To You Garry,in your reply!!! And believe it or NOT,I DO fully understand where your coming from!!! Despite me being raised in the northeastern part of this country,I moved about a decade ago,to a much more,shall we say "southern" part of this country,where EVERYONE (and yes,I mean that almost literally) uses the term "motor" for Engine!!! Lol. Believe me,I do my best to ACCEPT that term,but it's sometimes difficult,when these guys truly think "motor" means ENGINE,when it's nothing of the sort!!! Lol. Anyway........I appreciate your comment and You take care as well!!! :)
www.etymonline.com/word/motor
Good advice here! But only thing I would like to mention is that Honda or any other manufacture do not make their own oil!! The petroleum companies make the oil but every brand of oil has their own additive, minerals added/ blended in their oil to their specs. With that saying that some brands may be better than others. Dirty oil/ lack there of is what destroys any engine. Other than that keep on keeping on!
Good content and common sense.
I use real salted butter in dirtbike. It wotks great. Also use veg or canola oil.
Awesome Brother Good show
Very interesting!
Im 60 and started riding at 16 and have NEVER had an oil failure problem. I use regular motorcycle oil, and any brand so long as it meets your bikes specs.
I guess I better check my oil. I use synthetic so, i just change it every 5k . Thanks for the insight into the motor parts. Awesome video. Nice drawing, you could do tattoos on the side. LOL!
You should honestly change it every spring IMO but I deal with winters so it sits for a few months. Plus it's good practice and she appreciates me more then most women 🤣
What's your take on oil grade versus aged and rattly motor? Do you change to a thicker oil or add some oil additive or just let it rattle itself to bits? Engine is a K1 BMW so dry clutch and separate gearbox with nearly 200K on the clock.
I would probably use a little thicker oil on an old clunker. Clearances are looser and such. It will possibly prolong the rattling itself to bits part lol
My book says SAE 10 40 or SAE 30 for my 1980 honda cb750k 4. Would you please do a video of the starter clutch. Thanks.
whyte dub this is the best information you can get. SAE is what you need to know. Society of automotive engineers. They establish the standard for all oils. When you buy oil, it has an SAE rating. It doesn’t matter if it says it’s motorcycle oil or not. All the other marks tell you the additives and detergents the manufacturer has added to the oil. The viscosity is measured in two numbers. One is how it behaves when cold, the other when warm or hot. This guy is trying to sell motorcycle oil but there is no such thing.
good stuff.
I change my oil to 100% synthetic Amsoil Metric and original filter for my Fireblade, per 4.000 kilometers not miles. And I use a small strong neodimium magnet on the filter.
I have a 2014 Honda GL 1800C Valkyrie that I bought used in 2020, with only 100 miles on it. So while the oil was barely used, it is now 7 years old. I've decided to do an oil change to get fresh oil in and eliminate any break-in metal shavings, as the bike now has 1,000 miles on it.
I spoke with the Honda dealer and they asked me whether I preferred conventional or synthetic. I asked their recommendation, and after telling them my bike's maintenance history, he said I should use conventional, because that's what they put in at the factory, and it isn't good to change. Yet, tons of guys on the forum use synthetic and report no issues, and at some point, every one of them switched from conventional. I told the dealer then to use conventional. He then said I could save $20 by using non-Honda brand oil as opposed to Honda brand, I don't know if there IS a difference, but it makes sense to me to use the Honda brand in a Honda engine. It's specifically formulated for a Honda motorcycle.
Curious as to your thoughts on switching to synthetic, and if I stay with conventional whether I should use Honda or other brand. Based on your video, I think I know the answer to the latter. Thanks! 🛢
Thank you for the great no bullshit video. Have a brand new Honda xr 650 l . There are so many rumors and marketing B.s it nice just to see and hear the truth . Getting ready to do first change . Toughest decision for me is Honda full synthetic or conventional Honda 10w 30 . Any advice from you would be greatly appreciated. I’m in Florida and very hot in summer months . Leaning towards synthetic? Drive bike very conservatively . Oil will be changed regularly. Thank you
I agree with you on all that
I love watching your videos and I'm from India. Recently i replaced my cylinder and piston. After this a ticking or taping noise is coming from the engine. This happens only after the engine become hot. When it is started from cold there is no noise and is running smooth. The noise is there only when engine become warm. Please help me with this
Understand shear as a metric in oil thinning under heat and friction. Conventional oils will "shear" (thin) as their properties are depleted and they have absorbed the maximum contaminants. Oil serves three functions, cool the engine, lubricate and absorb contaminants.
i can't understand how a multigrade viscosity index can rise as the oilheats up but at same time the oil is getting thinner, do you know what the best lubricant is ?
I’ve been using Astroglide since I was 15...never had a problem.
😂🤣
Hi Cody,
What about my 1989 Honda Africa Twin,
In the manual it says to use “good quality motor oil” rating SL/CF .
It doesn’t mention motorcycle oil.
Back in 1989 did motorcycle oil exists ?
Is there a exception with car oils in older bikes ?
Back in 79 GN4 Honda motorcycle oil existed. No exceptions. Cars still used two different oils. Bikes still had clutches encased in the motor.
DHealy91 The "SL" standard has been replaced with the "SN" industry standard. And the "CF" has been replaced with the "CJ-4" industry standard. The new standards also meet the old standards. You need an oil that is API certified for both SN AND CJ-4 standards. Brand doesn't matter.
In Australia, some Penrite oils can be used in both cars & bikes. You just have to look for the motorcycle symbol on the bottle. Motorcycle oils usually are a better quality oil than car oils because of the more extreme conditions inside a motorcycle engine compared to a car engine. However some car oils are of a high enough quality with the right additive package that they can be used in motorcycles. It is safer to buy motorcycle branded oils, but with a little research you could find a number of suitable car oils as well.
If an oil is the correct viscosity, has good hths, anti wear and detergent properties, the only other aspect to consider is the debatable topic of whether moly causes clutch slippage. Shell Rotella is a great motorcycle oil that exceeds Jaso ma2 standards. It's priced great so one can afford to change it out at shorter intervals if so desired.
Some current motorcycle oils are running lower levels of phosphorus and zinc due to emmision and catalytic converters. Unknown whether this will have a negative effect on long term wear.
Great point! Time will tell! I have heard great results from Rotella during long interval chemical analysis!
My 87 kawasaki voyager loves rotella 15/40. 1200cc. These go over 100,000 miles easily. I change it and filter every 3000 miles. Oil takes a beating in motorcycles.
I too noticed all my Honda’s recommend oil changes every eight thousand miles and filter change every other oil change. I use Amsoil synthetic in both my Honda’s and one is 25 years old. No leaks and does not use any oil between oil changes. I normally change around 5000 miles or end of riding season which ever comes first. I either use Honda oil filters or Purolator motorcycle filters. Both of my bikes are liquid cooled and have V4 engines. Best advice, use what your manufacturer recommends, not what your buddy recommends.
Just changed the oil & filter in my 2001 gl1800. Was going to use full synthetic but the Honda dealer said they did not recommend that but to use their standard oil. Something about transmission slipping with full synthetic, thought I was doing something good but actually I was about to do the opposite.
Randy
Randy Hickman Fake news, don’t drink the kool aid, they’re only gonna tell u what they know or believe, it could be biased based on their limited knowledge or financial interests.
Right on. The API or JASO classifications say it all.. Motorcycle, outboard, small engine etc. are all different than automotive oil. (Use what you're suppose to)
When oil companies like Shell (just an example) make oil for the engine companies they blend it with base oils and additive packages according to their specifications. Many companies like Honda, John Deere have very high standards of specific additive blends and quality control.
Valvoline Dura Blend The best 4T motorcycle oil
Any chance you would be willing to help someone with advice on an 87 Honda shadow 1100 I just got the bike and replaced the clutches but I used automotive oil being an automotive mechanic I readily have access to that oil what kind of damage could I be doing the bike did sit for 3 years before I got it
In short : stick to the manual for oil type. Put enough but not too much. And change it frequently...
My two cents is :
- if you ride less than 4000 miles a year, change the oil every year
- if you ride more than 4000 and less than 8000 change it twice a year
- (and so on if 8000 to 12000 change 3 time...)
The idea is that it is better to PLAN the change at a given date / time than making forecast for an accurate milage...
If you are grosly worng in your yearly milage estimate it is easy to skip an oil change or ad one.
If the oil change scheduling is bothering you too mush... go for a two stroke...
Hello thanks for your work. I have a question: this oil can you advise me for my virago 1000. I live in the hot climate.e.