Only 20mins in and the common sense explained on the overlap cam stuff is the best I have ever heard.. every person in the world looking at a camshaft should watch this!
Low-end torque cams energize the turbo sooner, allowing the turbo itself to increase the power levels up high, as opposed to losing it up high compared to n/a. The torque curve for a big rig would be a torque "spike" without the turbo. Gobs of torque at 1000 RPM, falling on its face the further up the RPM range it went, I theorize. The key to turbos and any motor is for them to have the power you want at the RPM you want, and ignore whatever happens outside of that desired or required RPM range. You don't care what a motor will do at 13,500 RPM. You are driving 99 percent of the time from idle to 3000 RPM, and some fun times from 3000 to around 6000 RPM. You have to decide what is the priority: where you drive most of the time or the occasional rip in the upper RPM ranges.
Thoroughly admire the entirety of your life's study in this most intriguing body of work. Your inquiring mind, your research, reporting and discoveries enthusiastically presented so generously to all of us fans. Mister H, Professor and Friend 👌🎓👍
Been thinking about a turbo on the Windsor I'm building. Got so much Windsor stuff all I need is set of headers! Going old school with a carb. I think I'll just use the 100hp power shot I already have! Just a Sunday ride around the country side project! Love the way you really take time to explain in layman terms the results of modifications!
I wish that the people commenting would look back into Richards previous videos before asking questions that have already been answered. No flack but it's common sense at this point if you're subscribed.
It would be a great help if they were organized by more than just upload date. I spent 10 hours looking for a sbf combo video a couple months ago. Just on his channel. Didn't find it. Ended up seeing it in a daily driver combo this week.
Thanks. Just bought a BTR Truck Norris for my 72 maverick 5.3 turbo swap. They are supposed to be opening an 1/8th mile track a few miles from the house.
Love your vids Richard, you cover ALL aspects of engine building and certainly for someone selecting parts one by one makes it much easier to make the right choice or at least narrow it down a lot depending on their needs. I will be 66 soon and when i barely turned 20 worked at a full service Shell station with a few fellow wanna be motorheads. A few had GTO's and back then these idiots would throw an 850 on a stock 389/400 and all they got was a HUGE bog. I built a 67 Camaro Yenko clone so it was a 427/425 with 456 gears in a 12 bolt and a 4 speed, with some 25 inch slicks 12.7 at 110 using a JUNK 780 Holley and with no tuning, just drive up to New England dragway in Epping NH and only a few runs made. Some guy who raced weekends told me an EASY 12.4 or better with an 800/850 and Tarantula Single plane. One of my buddies brought up his 65 GTO and got EXTREMELY high 14's like 14.9 at 96 mph, back then they had 'Grudge night' and entrance fee was $2.00 bucks. That Chevy factory solid cam worked well, it idled decent and revved high, i think it was 520 lift, it had the Chevy 7/8 quart oil pan too so looked impressive from the front with it hanging down and the Lakewood scattershield. Fastest and the most fun car i ever owned but 456 gears on the street is hard to live with, had to drive back and forth to work at 40 mph.
02 Rcsb 4.8 daily driver S475 (7575) t4 1.10 Jfr 212/212 112 127# injectors walbro 400 4.10 eaton lsd My silvy has been boosted for last 5 years and it was awesome cam only. My wife drives it when she needs to hell my mother in law even uses it when she needs to move stuff. Best mod for a daily is a gear set. Big cams with stock gears and verter just don't make for a quick fun daily but sound cool
I can listen to you talk all day long. engines are bad ass and you make perfect sense.turbo and nitrous for every motor.my father before he died used to say when we build a motor if it's going to come on glued it's going to come on glued and he would make me rip it flat shift the hell out of it.
This is why for Honda's (B series) skunk2 tuner series cams are great for boosting. the low cam is near stock and the high cam is more "racey". For example my tuner3s have 196°@ 0.50 on low profile and 270°@0.50 on high intake cam profile. The exhausts are the same+10°degrees the lift on both is somewhere between 12.5-13.5mm.
2:30 is what I've been telling people for 25 years .. proved it back in the 90s with big overlap and high compression with boost while EVERYONE was going the exact opposite 🤣
Great show I’m new to the turbo world and would like to hear more about plumbing sizes and blow off valves . How do you know your using the right stuff for your app. And boost controllers vs no controllers… maybe invite a guess on that may know more about where to start with out blowing up your engine the first test drive… maybe tips on where to buy plumbing on A budget
I just got mine done and idling. I'm running pig ass rich until I get everything dialed in just for this reason. I don't want to blow it up before I even have it ready to rip. I have no dyno access. This has all been done in my driveway. I'm running a gen 4 5.3 with a Sum-8701 from summit and a gt45 turbo. I don't even have a boost pressure hose ran to the waste gate. It's a cheap ass wastegate that has probably a 10lb spring. I'm not really sure if that is accurate because it was cheap ebay chinese waste gate. I don't even have a boost gauge but I am data logging with hptuners and I know I've hit 155kpa on map pressure at around 4k rpm. My EQ ratio n wideband was around .76 with 12 degrees of timing. Like I said very rich, low timing, until you get shit dialed in. I haven't even had it over 4800rpm yet. Before I put the turbo on and it was just cammed I had it shifting at 6400rpm and still had pull. Not even running a blow off valve. Just do it and not worry about sizes of piping or BOV or Waste gates. Just throw it together cheaply, get it tuned good and have fun.
@@eflanagan1921 Unless its absolute pressure which is about 8 PSI. Still, disconnecting a wastegate on a properly sized turbo is usually not a good idea. Usually people that do that and tell about it on internet forums are rebuilding their engines in a couple months, for some reason.
Rick, the overlap uses kinetic energy of the airmass too .. Just like a NA motor.. it's very significant how much power of unseen physics outside of pure psi is at work with a high velocity airmass and trying to stop it .. that intake charge effect gets stronger with boost and with rpm as flow rates and volumes increase so does the mass/energy
I mentioned it before. but I'm planning on putting twin S256 T3 on a 2005 6.0 out of a truck. that's in my chevelle, T56 close ratio magnum 3:55 gears I know I need 3:08 or 3:30, Z06 clutch and quick time bell house. Stage 1 trick flow 216/220, 550 lift. and running tail wastegate and bov. I want 7 psi and about 15psi max. should be a fun street car.
So under turbo boost more than likely the exhaust back pressure will be higher than the boost pressure. We're talking manifold pressure on both. So during overlap the flow will be from the exh. to the int., I'm with you a good N/A cam is a good turbo cam.
One has to remember that be it boost, manifold, back or whatever pressure: do not mix pressure with flow. You can have high backpressure within the flow, but if the flow has enough inertia, which it has loads of in the case of exhaust evacuation, it will flow out of the cylinder no matter what. It might be inefficient, but it'll flow out. Except in the case of the banana trick. Also the backpressure right outside the cylinder, near the valve is not the same as general backpressure. Local backpressure in the exhaust manifold is not uniform and even, it will fluctuate depending the stroke.
It’s an expensive experiment but a good way to prove your point and shut people up is to just test a “turbo” cam VS your choice of cam that’s similar and show just how small of a difference in power there is in the same motor at the same PSI.
I see your point on the camshaft not making much of a difference unless you get to the extreme levels of precision. What are your thoughts on heads? Do higher quality heads (meaning port design and channel porting. Not the valvetrain.) matter in a boosted setup?
Hi Richard, great info and I'm new to your channel. I notice a lot of your work is done Aaron's the LS engine platform but if like to know if you've done any turbos on the newer LT versions and even more specific the C8 LT2 ? Would like to do a twin turbo daily driver. Thanks
I have a request. Would you do a single turbo build with an edelbrock carb? Specifically would you go into the carb build? Thank you. Love your channel.
Daily drove a Silverado with a small isky turbo cam in a LQ4 with a S475/83 turbo for several years. Towed with it every weekend. 330,000 miles later a stock lifter took out a cam lobe. 6-8psi at 2000 rpms hauling heavy trailer made a huge difference on being able to keep the transmission in 4th gear with the torque converter locked up. Might have even out run some mustangs and camaros on highway pulls while towing a loaded trailer....
@@kevinmcquitery4543 Towed a 18,000 ditchwitch a few times. It did very good with having airbags on the truck but ended up bending the frame. I wasn't scared to hook up to a 28' enclosed that weighed 12,000# loaded and go anywhere. I had water/air IC and a large heat exchanger along with water/meth injection so IATs were never a issue even staying in boost for miles. I'm building a similar setup now but with a 370ci and S476/96 in a 2500HD. Just waiting on parts.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 I have a 07.5 Silverado 2500HD with 3:73 gears and wanting to turbo it with 6-8 psi. You think 14,000lbs would be too much with that setup?
@@kevinmcquitery4543 the newer GMT 900 trucks are rated to tow more the older GMT800's so as long as your trailer setup is good I would do air bags to help the truck handle the load and then get the biggest intercooler you can fit. Also don't cheap out on the turbo. Go Borg Warner at minimum. Being 07.5+ and having the 6L90E you should be able to keep your RPMs low and let the turbo do the work. Don't expect spectacular fuel mileage neither. You can get it in the mid single digits if your using that throttle pedal alot. Is the truck completely stock?
@@kevinmcquitery4543 I forgot to mention mine was a 1500 truck. I'm doing a similar setup in my 2500hd now. Just waiting on parts. Instead of the cast S475/83 I'm going with the billet S476/96 to try and free up the exhaust side and see how it acts. Also going with a 370ci vs the 6.0L. And a cam motion 214/214 cam vs the isky 215/215. Large Water/Air IC below the radiator and a large heat exchanger. I'm gonna give it a try on 87 octane and get a feel for it. I've tuned a few turbo trucks on 87 and they did ok. Nothing great but being able to put 93 in it and flip a switch for the added timing is nice. Also ran Water/methanol injection on my old truck with -30* WWF and 2 nozzles. IATs never got high or become a problem towing really heavy. And back then WWF was $1.50 a gallon for the Peak brand and it was 38% methanol by the MSDS data sheet.
Dang you make me want to cancel my order, been watching you for years and finally decided to go turbo and build my own kit gen 4 ls rect port t56 240sx, 700whp or more goal after turbo was going to run comp cam Lsr 243/259 until Im ready for boost (single s475) but after seeing the video I'm thinking too much cam for daily driver/longevity? Advertised Intake Duration:293 Advertised Exhaust Duration:309 Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift:243 Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift:259 Intake Valve Lift:0.624 Exhaust Valve Lift:0.624 Lobe Lift Intake:0.367 Lobe Lift Exhaust:0.367 Lobe Separation:114 Intake Centerline:111 Exhaust Close ATDC:38 Intake Open BTDC:34 Exhaust Open BBDC:90 Intake Close ABDC:78
5.3 s366 216/220 cam. Works great on the street. Fast spool up, lots of tq. Will probably only make upper 5’s on pump gas but 500whp in a 3300 lb truck is plenty. This is with a 5spd too.
Is that s366 a newer billet sxe model or the older one? I ask cause I’m thinking of using a s364sxe on my 6.0 LS and wonder if it’s too small. .96 hotside and 80mm turbine…..
@@or-ian6973 yea I figure it’s super small but it’s rated for more flow than the older s366 and I’m just going for down low truck power, something that’ll spool quick for climbing these Rocky Mountains. I figure maybe jump up from the .96 a/r to a 1.10 or bigger….but maybe I shouldn’t try to use old parts from my supra just to save money lol
I was wondering if you've ever considered doing a test on a max torque built 6.2 LS boosted to the limit of the stock bottom end? Like maybe cathedral port 706, truck norris cam, trailblazer SS intake. Boosted to the 3 bar map limit just to see what that torque curve would look like before it blows up. I think it would make a killer street engine.
Richard, admittedly I haven't listened to the whole show yet. But I've wanted to ask you for a bit. What is your daily? Love your dyno videos and the price of the information ; ). Would you indulge us and daily drive a turbo LS combo daily and keep us updated on how it's performing with the ups and downs? Thanks and I will continue to watch.
I put 300,000+ miles on a turbo 6.0. It was problem free. I changed the oil and filter often as well as keeping air filter clean. It was a LQ4 and 4L80E with a S475/83 turbo. 60# injectors, dual walbro 255 pumps, water/air intercooler and Water/methanol injection. Stock 4l80 with a trucool 40k cooler, 3.42 gears and 30" tires. It would chug along at 70mph hauling a trailer in overdrive with converter locked thru the hills.
⭐Please compare S476 with 87mm Turbine T4 vs a S476 with 96mm Turbine T6 🙏 Back pressure vs response vs power improvement with the 96 turbine from better back pressure ratio
A camshaft cannot be properly specced for a turbo engine without knowing the back pressure and the boost pressure.reversion happens in N A. Engines.in the 70d and early 80s we gained power with nitrous engines by opening the ex valve earlier with the same shot.
What's the most you can get out of a Vortec 4200 NA without going to extremes? Like only the air handler, cams, exhaust manifold, and maybe the Pistons.
@@richardholdener1727 yeah I was thinking that might be the case, but for a daily with a manual trans where you can get away with a narrow power band I was wondering if it would help spool up, bring power on faster etc.
Richard. I would like to see what you need theoretically like parts wise for a boosted v8 build for instance and where to place things as a general rule, etc. I have a low compression forged bottom end 355 carbed lt1 that is gapped for boost. Been driving around n/a for over a year. I have a 78 mm on3 turbo. My plan is to go blow through. Would like to know the reality of daily driving a blow through carb setup.
@@richardholdener1727 yes, I was looking at offerings from CSU and C&S, they both have 750 cfm offerings which is a little big CFM wise but that seems to be the only carb size that is sold. I was going to pick one, and start trying to fabricate a hot side. It seems too easy to be true, once the hot side is done and you figure out the placement of the turbo, oiling, etc. car in question is a 92 camaro. Will be using a mig welder.
Running a 219 dur and 108 lobe sep on a turboed slant six. Guess what, sounds cool and immediately spoils to 8 lbs with a CT26. It’s very fun to drive.
I been looking around at cams to swap in a 85 truck 350. Was looking at some circle track low lift cams. Or maybe something alittle bigger. But was wondering if you ever did like couple different sized performance cams with a standard stock heads. Swap heads for combustion size to see what 8to1, 9 to1 or 10to1 had a difference in power. How much power per point in compression.
Although I've never owned a Turbocharged vehicle, I've always wanted the almost free increase in power and performance that turbocharging provides. I've also always thought that turbocharging a daily driver, and not for maximum hp, if done properly, should also provide improved mpg. I just replaced my 1997 5.7L/350cu.in. GMC engine in my K1500 pickup with a stroker 383cu.in. engine in hopes of giving me enough power and torque to tow a 10,000lb or less trailer up freeway grades without slowing to a crawl, but after about 2,000 break-in miles, I was greatly disappointed in the results this new engine provided with the stock Vortec spider injection system, so now I'm searching for alternative modifications that will give me the power and torque I need for my towing needs. I've already spent about $6,000 on the stroker engine and install, so on my retirement income, I don't want to spend over $2,500 to $3,500 in additional parts and labor to reach my goal. Do you think I can get a turbocharged intake system (and any needed ignition improvements) for that amount for this engine, and could I expect to see 400+ hp and 475+ torque from a turbocharged 383 GMC/Chevy engine on a budget? Edit: I've also already spent about $2,000 upgrading my suspension and brakes to equal a 3/4 ton truck, and added a brake controller, to make towing up to 10,000lbs safe.
Speaking of "free power," using a programmable boost controller would allow you to just dump much of your exhaust for efficiency until you needed power, then you could flip on the boost and go for it, much like the "boost screw" between the seats on the Porsche 930 turbo.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 thanks for the reply, but I’m willing to replace my stock injection system with an aftermarket version that works well with a turbocharger or even switch to a carburetor plus turbocharger. I’m just not knowledgeable about hot-rodding small block Chevy engines and how you can manipulate their engine computer modules that control the injection system, timing and I suppose the transmission shift points. I’m willing to modify all of it, but need advice from someone who knows what to do and what parts to get.
This is an old conversation but just wanted to mention 17psi for a diesel is nothing, most stock diesels hit 30psi when loaded and 60-80psi is common with tuned up compound setups, diesels are built way better running 17-22:1 compression ratios and detonation is not a problem
G'day there Rich, I have a lm7 with summit pro ls +2cc dome pistons+rods, stock 799 heads with crower dual valve springs and a comp cams 224/230 @ .050 114 lsa .581 .589 lift. What sort of na power would you expect from this on the engine dyno? Planning on feeding it e85 and around 28 psi through a g42-1450. Cheers for any feedback and love your videos mate, keep up the good work 👍
Just curious about recommendations for a torquey cam that's very responsive in a 5.3 based 383 stroker with a compound GT45/GT35. This would be going into a vehicle weighing than 4000lb that doesn't do much or no towing? Which 'Truck Style' cam would work best. Or would there be better camshaft and turbo combinations than the GT45/GT35 that I mentioned for responsiveness and torque. Thanks
I thought that by using a compound turbo setup that I would lose less torque on the low end while increasing power at the high end. I'm new to turbos and camshafts and my inexperience obviously shows. I'm basically looking to maximize torque on low end and increase responsiveness of the turbos. Or would a more aggressive camshaft and a correctly sized single turbo work better. Just thought that more aggressive camshafts lose significant torque on the low end.
Have you done any compound setups on Subaru 2.5L? I am busy with a setup for a street track car. 286 cams, rev kit, Manley pistons, turbo tuff rods, 625+ rod bolts, 14mm 625+ head bolts, 2000 casing bolts, +1 valves, ported heads. The problem I have is the turbo combination as compounding is not a thing in my country so no one can really offer assistance. I have considered to supercharge compound with a GT35. Motor will be capable of 1200hp but will only be running it at 800hp. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Richard I currently have a ly6 6.0 out of a 3500 van that I will be putting in a truck and I want to do twin turbos I am a welder instructor and can’t wait to fabricate the piping definitely go to do titanium because I think it would be so much fun I do not want to go to small on them but I also want to make sure they they work well at lower rpms just seeing what size you recommend and I would really like to make 1000 hp +
@@richardholdener1727 The advantage of fancy Ti headers is in heat retention, and if they have relatively identical and long primary tubes, then scavenging and cylinder-to-cylinder balance. Ti is a very poor conductor of heat.
So I'm running forged with factory displacement on 6.1 hemi with ported heads and intake manifold, valve spring kit and 600 lift cam, and supporting fuel mods. My question is what would be the ideal turbo/turbos combo? Power goals around 6-700rwhp capable of 4 digit hp numbers with just switching maps and load a 1,000hp tune. With all that said and done all while being located in Las Vegas with that crazy Vegas weather like 115 ° degrees every summer to almost snowing temps in the winter...
Richard has a lot of videos on that subject and your particular brand of engine isn't a major factor. Watch and share a bunch of his videos that he has and it'll answer this question
You were saying the high lift cam would be unstable. I'm currently gathering parts for my pre eagle 5.7 hemi stroker with ported 6.1 heads and the cam I have spec's are 229/239 lsa 111, 635/613 but actually comes out 230/240 when entering the valve events in a cam calculator. This will be an NA build with possible small shot of nitrous in the future mainly for street use. Should I be concerned with the lift of my cam? The .635 is higher than I was planning on but??
Why do people always focus on cylinder head flow and forget or ignore port energy? Or was David Vizard just talking out the side of his head? 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️ And can I improve a mid 2000s Toyota 4 valve head?
Whelp, I went 11.5:1 pistons and 7500rpm cams in a 5.4 4v, will piston ring gap hurt my NA hp while I save up for a turbo? It'll be mounted under the back seat area where the first muffler goes, I have forged connecting rods and was thinking a G35 or G42 Garrett turbo, my car is a t56 manual with a twin plate
A much better way to relate the valve overlap period is as a percentage of an entire revolution. 6000 rpm is a small fraction of time by itself so you a4e making tge overlap period sound even shorter than it is. Consider the time for 1 Revatio 6k rpmnrate being the base time. Ninnthat casebthe over lap period is not nearly as short as you make it in your examplel 6000 rpms is one rev or 1/100 of a sec or 10 milseconds. So that equals 100 % of a rev. That is of 360 degrees. Take a 228/232 110 lsa 108 icl cam. It has 10 degrees of overlap. So that is 2.78% of a rev. So out of ab10 milsec of 1 rev at 6k rpm its 2.78 milsec. That's a jeasursable amount. Something under 1% would be small not almost 3%. The issue us nit loosing boost as in fresh air coming into the cyl. It's having the exhaust from drive pressure which is almost alwa7ys higher than boost back filling the cyl. That is an issue with pressurized systems Both valves are open and exhaust that has already left the cyl is not pushed back in for 3% of each cycle. So yes its small period vs human time but high rpm tengine time it's much more almost 3%. Still as you sta5e it's not a big deal for street. But if your gonna put a new cam in anyways why not have its specs optimized for a turbo. Some stock cams have overlap separation or negative overlap. What you want from a cam and head is a engine that cyl flows very well on the exhaust side. It helps lower cyl pressure .
I'm wanting to twin turbo my 94 mustang gt that I'm building a 289 to drop in it. What I want to know is what turbos to use. I'm running a engine pro flat tappet hyd. stage 3 camshaft. Forged pistons afr 165cc renegade heads , msd 6al and a gear drive. What turbos do I recommend?
What truck cam would you recommend like the one you mentioned at about 29:15 ? Do you have a dyno video with it? 2008 5.3 in a suburban with turbo goals in the future.
But does this in its own right help with scavenging with the valve over lap due to the LAS of say 110* over let’s say 114* to expense the Knox gas and unburnt exhaust gasses? Please correct me if I’m wrong.
hey Richard I have a important question I have a 6.0 I gapped the rings and I’m putting the rods back on and I bought the Arp rod bolts 2346301 but I keep reading about you have to resize the rod with new bolts so I’m thinking about returning the bolts what’s your thought it’s been driving me crazy I haven’t taken off the old stock bolts yet
awesome I will use the stock bolts thank you Richard for replying so quickly I can’t even imagine how many comments you get for you to reply back so fast means so much to me thank you i’m going to watch a couple of your new videos right now
Dart a little M block 383 Forged internals AFR 220 Eliminator heads Solid Roller .238/.243 w .579” lift 112 LSA AFR single plain intake Twin VSR 6782 turbos Does this combo seem good. I was thinking I may need more displacement, something like a 400 or 406.
I'm building a turbocharged Chevy 355 with a T-76 turbo backed up by a T-56 manual transmission. I'm having a bit of an issue with fuel injectors sizing and picking an intercooler I'll be running only 5psi max and my car doesn't have an open grill so I'm thinking air to water but I don't know what size I need .
@@richardholdener1727 it's a 1986 trans am with Air conditioning I'm leaving in so I'm thinking about a smaller air to water intercooler. Would 60lb injectors work or can I get away with 42lb/hr injectors
Hey I have a 2005 GMC Yukon Denali and I put a 05 6.0 408 stroker crank in it with a BTR V2 stage 4 cam and a throttle body spacer cold air intake and I'm wanting to know how much horsepower I'm making the vehicle runs great though
I'm late. But, what would be a proper cam for a 5.3 that has twin 5865's, 6 speed manual, 3.73 gears, 9.7-9.75CR, weights probably 34-3500lbs without driver, is a street car but also does autocross and track day events? The current cam is WAY to big. Thanks.
@@nathanhamilton5078 BTR appears to have dumped their St 1-3 truck cams for their new truck norris. The truck norris dyno graph made me order it. Check it out.
Hello! I have a 5.3 with 706 ported and polished heads gen 4 rods and was wondering if VS racing 7875 twin turbos be okay with a BTR stage 3 twin turbo cam and spring kit. Trying to make 1200+ hp. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
You think 2 gt45s would be sufficient. I just don't want to buy to small and then later on down the road decide to go for 1500. Also running the Holley low rise intake.
Doesn't the camshaft play a very major roll in Dynamic cylinder pressure? And Isn't Dynamic cylinder pressure the most important factor in how much boost you are able to run? I don't understand the notion that which camshaft you choose is trivial when applying boost.
what about marine high perf cams? marine cams have the big overlap....so not a good choice for turbo application A? 400 small block t application? no one seems to have any real insight on this as its not common........ help...
A MARINE HIGH PERFORMANCE CAM IS USUALLY A VERY MILD CAM COMPRED TO ANY AFTER MARKET CAM. AND OVERLAP IS NOT BAD FOR A TURBO MOTOR-IF IT MAKES MORE NA POWER, IT MAKES MORE POWER UNDER BOOST
@@richardholdener1727 Thanks for the reply. I really liked the power curve on your dyno video. Whats your opinion on trunion upgrades? ill see if you have a video on that too.
Just sell a book with all the combos you've done with turbo/cam/nitrous and I'd buy that.
with the dyno graphs for each one pictured.
I'd buy
same...friggin same
If Richard made any book. I'd buy it to support him. I've been reading his articles in magazines for decades.
He did publish a book
Only 20mins in and the common sense explained on the overlap cam stuff is the best I have ever heard.. every person in the world looking at a camshaft should watch this!
Richard is gonna have “yes, that is also a boost cam” on his grave stone 😂😂😂 love it. Keep on spreading good info!
Low-end torque cams energize the turbo sooner, allowing the turbo itself to increase the power levels up high, as opposed to losing it up high compared to n/a. The torque curve for a big rig would be a torque "spike" without the turbo. Gobs of torque at 1000 RPM, falling on its face the further up the RPM range it went, I theorize.
The key to turbos and any motor is for them to have the power you want at the RPM you want, and ignore whatever happens outside of that desired or required RPM range.
You don't care what a motor will do at 13,500 RPM. You are driving 99 percent of the time from idle to 3000 RPM, and some fun times from 3000 to around 6000 RPM. You have to decide what is the priority: where you drive most of the time or the occasional rip in the upper RPM ranges.
Thoroughly admire the entirety of your life's study in this most intriguing body of work. Your inquiring mind, your research, reporting and discoveries enthusiastically presented so generously to all of us fans. Mister H, Professor and Friend 👌🎓👍
Been thinking about a turbo on the Windsor I'm building. Got so much Windsor stuff all I need is set of headers! Going old school with a carb. I think I'll just use the 100hp power shot I already have! Just a Sunday ride around the country side project! Love the way you really take time to explain in layman terms the results of modifications!
Thanks Richard, this is all I needed to hear to convince me that my old cam with 110°LSA is my new turbo cam in my 4.8TT build.
I'm glad you mentioned this, I saw a plenty of stock cam turbo cars beat custom cam turbo cars
Two weeks late to this party, but I learned something! Thanks, man.
As always,well presented knowledge,I loved the q and a section more content creators need to be doing this!!
You answered all my questions, thank you so much!😂
I wish that the people commenting would look back into Richards previous videos before asking questions that have already been answered. No flack but it's common sense at this point if you're subscribed.
New generation, know nothing about research… they just want everyone to tell them cause it’s to hard to do it yourself, ..snowflakes ❄️
It would be a great help if they were organized by more than just upload date. I spent 10 hours looking for a sbf combo video a couple months ago. Just on his channel. Didn't find it. Ended up seeing it in a daily driver combo this week.
It's "flak."
Good job brother explaining exactly how things work in a simple way. God bless.
29:35 Richard great pitch for a truck cam 😎👍 easy to understand for the masses
I highly agree what you discussed about camshafts...
Thanks. Just bought a BTR Truck Norris for my 72 maverick 5.3 turbo swap. They are supposed to be opening an 1/8th mile track a few miles from the house.
Love your vids Richard, you cover ALL aspects of engine building and certainly for someone selecting parts one by one makes it much easier to make the right choice or at least narrow it down a lot depending on their needs.
I will be 66 soon and when i barely turned 20 worked at a full service Shell station with a few fellow wanna be motorheads. A few had GTO's and back then these idiots would throw an 850 on a stock 389/400 and all they got was a HUGE bog. I built a 67 Camaro Yenko clone so it was a 427/425 with 456 gears in a 12 bolt and a 4 speed, with some 25 inch slicks 12.7 at 110 using a JUNK 780 Holley and with no tuning, just drive up to New England dragway in Epping NH and only a few runs made. Some guy who raced weekends told me an EASY 12.4 or better with an 800/850 and Tarantula Single plane. One of my buddies brought up his 65 GTO and got EXTREMELY high 14's like 14.9 at 96 mph, back then they had 'Grudge night' and entrance fee was $2.00 bucks. That Chevy factory solid cam worked well, it idled decent and revved high, i think it was 520 lift, it had the Chevy 7/8 quart oil pan too so looked impressive from the front with it hanging down and the Lakewood scattershield. Fastest and the most fun car i ever owned but 456 gears on the street is hard to live with, had to drive back and forth to work at 40 mph.
Thank you for sharing this info!
Good listening to you 👍
Based on Richard's advice I chose a Lil John stage 1 turbo cam for my 5.3 222/227@.050. Also sticking with a stock style long runner intake.
02 Rcsb 4.8 daily driver
S475 (7575) t4 1.10
Jfr 212/212 112
127# injectors walbro 400
4.10 eaton lsd
My silvy has been boosted for last 5 years and it was awesome cam only. My wife drives it when she needs to hell my mother in law even uses it when she needs to move stuff. Best mod for a daily is a gear set. Big cams with stock gears and verter just don't make for a quick fun daily but sound cool
I can listen to you talk all day long. engines are bad ass and you make perfect sense.turbo and nitrous for every motor.my father before he died used to say when we build a motor if it's going to come on glued it's going to come on glued and he would make me rip it flat shift the hell out of it.
"Turbo cam" is like a "race" muffler 😂😂
This is why for Honda's (B series) skunk2 tuner series cams are great for boosting. the low cam is near stock and the high cam is more "racey". For example my tuner3s have 196°@ 0.50 on low profile and 270°@0.50 on high intake cam profile. The exhausts are the same+10°degrees the lift on both is somewhere between 12.5-13.5mm.
That's the difference between pushrod, single overhead cam, and dual overhead cam engines.
2:30 is what I've been telling people for 25 years .. proved it back in the 90s with big overlap and high compression with boost while EVERYONE was going the exact opposite 🤣
Great show I’m new to the turbo world and would like to hear more about plumbing sizes and blow off valves . How do you know your using the right stuff for your app. And boost controllers vs no controllers… maybe invite a guess on that may know more about where to start with out blowing up your engine the first test drive… maybe tips on where to buy plumbing on A budget
THE FIRST TIME YOU GO INTO BOOST ON A NEW BUILD SHOULD BE ON A CHASSIS DYNO WITH RACE FUEL, LOW TIMING AND A RICH MIXTURE
I just got mine done and idling. I'm running pig ass rich until I get everything dialed in just for this reason. I don't want to blow it up before I even have it ready to rip. I have no dyno access. This has all been done in my driveway. I'm running a gen 4 5.3 with a Sum-8701 from summit and a gt45 turbo. I don't even have a boost pressure hose ran to the waste gate. It's a cheap ass wastegate that has probably a 10lb spring. I'm not really sure if that is accurate because it was cheap ebay chinese waste gate.
I don't even have a boost gauge but I am data logging with hptuners and I know I've hit 155kpa on map pressure at around 4k rpm. My EQ ratio n wideband was around .76 with 12 degrees of timing. Like I said very rich, low timing, until you get shit dialed in. I haven't even had it over 4800rpm yet. Before I put the turbo on and it was just cammed I had it shifting at 6400rpm and still had pull. Not even running a blow off valve. Just do it and not worry about sizes of piping or BOV or Waste gates. Just throw it together cheaply, get it tuned good and have fun.
@@donnie1581 155 KPA?
Time to hook that funny little hose up.
@@2lotusman851 22 psi ?
@@eflanagan1921 Unless its absolute pressure which is about 8 PSI.
Still, disconnecting a wastegate on a properly sized turbo is usually not a good idea.
Usually people that do that and tell about it on internet forums are rebuilding their engines in a couple months, for some reason.
Rick, the overlap uses kinetic energy of the airmass too .. Just like a NA motor.. it's very significant how much power of unseen physics outside of pure psi is at work with a high velocity airmass and trying to stop it .. that intake charge effect gets stronger with boost and with rpm as flow rates and volumes increase so does the mass/energy
Almost quantum..
Shock waves and volume velocity, seems to be something a test comparison or CFD simulation would help with.
I mentioned it before. but I'm planning on putting twin S256 T3 on a 2005 6.0 out of a truck. that's in my chevelle, T56 close ratio magnum 3:55 gears I know I need 3:08 or 3:30, Z06 clutch and quick time bell house. Stage 1 trick flow 216/220, 550 lift. and running tail wastegate and bov. I want 7 psi and about 15psi max. should be a fun street car.
You need to put these into podcasts! Matt Happels podcasts have been a wealth of information on the long drives to work
I hope to
This basically is a podcast… put it on and listen for an hour + for some of the best information available
@@richardholdener1727 ever get tge pod?
20 minutes into this video is almost solidifying my confidence I want a chopacobra or truck Norris cam for my ls1 gto
I have some avail $169 shipped
@@richardholdener1727 how do I get in contact with
@@richardholdener1727 u still have any need one for my 5.3
turbos are the way to go. thats why the OEM guys like them.
So under turbo boost more than likely the exhaust back pressure will be higher than the boost pressure. We're talking manifold pressure on both. So during overlap the flow will be from the exh. to the int., I'm with you a good N/A cam is a good turbo cam.
One has to remember that be it boost, manifold, back or whatever pressure: do not mix pressure with flow. You can have high backpressure within the flow, but if the flow has enough inertia, which it has loads of in the case of exhaust evacuation, it will flow out of the cylinder no matter what. It might be inefficient, but it'll flow out. Except in the case of the banana trick.
Also the backpressure right outside the cylinder, near the valve is not the same as general backpressure. Local backpressure in the exhaust manifold is not uniform and even, it will fluctuate depending the stroke.
It’s an expensive experiment but a good way to prove your point and shut people up is to just test a “turbo” cam VS your choice of cam that’s similar and show just how small of a difference in power there is in the same motor at the same PSI.
the one that makes the most na will make the most at any given boost level
I see your point on the camshaft not making much of a difference unless you get to the extreme levels of precision. What are your thoughts on heads? Do higher quality heads (meaning port design and channel porting. Not the valvetrain.) matter in a boosted setup?
Hi Richard, great info and I'm new to your channel. I notice a lot of your work is done Aaron's the LS engine platform but if like to know if you've done any turbos on the newer LT versions and even more specific the C8 LT2 ? Would like to do a twin turbo daily driver. Thanks
have not done an LT2
0823 head came stock on my L76 Pontiac G8 GT
Please do a daily driver twin turbo 7.3L (445 Cubic inches) Godzilla gas engine. So far on a TVS Supercharger? It's crazy on power on pump gas.
I have a request. Would you do a single turbo build with an edelbrock carb? Specifically would you go into the carb build? Thank you. Love your channel.
You want to convert an Edelbrock carb to blow through-best way is to run a complete carb enclosure
Rich is awesome
Daily drove a Silverado with a small isky turbo cam in a LQ4 with a S475/83 turbo for several years. Towed with it every weekend. 330,000 miles later a stock lifter took out a cam lobe.
6-8psi at 2000 rpms hauling heavy trailer made a huge difference on being able to keep the transmission in 4th gear with the torque converter locked up.
Might have even out run some mustangs and camaros on highway pulls while towing a loaded trailer....
What's the most you towed with that setup and how did it handle that much weight?
@@kevinmcquitery4543 Towed a 18,000 ditchwitch a few times. It did very good with having airbags on the truck but ended up bending the frame. I wasn't scared to hook up to a 28' enclosed that weighed 12,000# loaded and go anywhere.
I had water/air IC and a large heat exchanger along with water/meth injection so IATs were never a issue even staying in boost for miles.
I'm building a similar setup now but with a 370ci and S476/96 in a 2500HD. Just waiting on parts.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 I have a 07.5 Silverado 2500HD with 3:73 gears and wanting to turbo it with 6-8 psi. You think 14,000lbs would be too much with that setup?
@@kevinmcquitery4543 the newer GMT 900 trucks are rated to tow more the older GMT800's so as long as your trailer setup is good I would do air bags to help the truck handle the load and then get the biggest intercooler you can fit. Also don't cheap out on the turbo. Go Borg Warner at minimum.
Being 07.5+ and having the 6L90E you should be able to keep your RPMs low and let the turbo do the work.
Don't expect spectacular fuel mileage neither. You can get it in the mid single digits if your using that throttle pedal alot.
Is the truck completely stock?
@@kevinmcquitery4543 I forgot to mention mine was a 1500 truck.
I'm doing a similar setup in my 2500hd now. Just waiting on parts.
Instead of the cast S475/83 I'm going with the billet S476/96 to try and free up the exhaust side and see how it acts.
Also going with a 370ci vs the 6.0L.
And a cam motion 214/214 cam vs the isky 215/215.
Large Water/Air IC below the radiator and a large heat exchanger.
I'm gonna give it a try on 87 octane and get a feel for it. I've tuned a few turbo trucks on 87 and they did ok. Nothing great but being able to put 93 in it and flip a switch for the added timing is nice. Also ran Water/methanol injection on my old truck with -30* WWF and 2 nozzles.
IATs never got high or become a problem towing really heavy. And back then WWF was $1.50 a gallon for the Peak brand and it was 38% methanol by the MSDS data sheet.
Dang you make me want to cancel my order, been watching you for years and finally decided to go turbo and build my own kit gen 4 ls rect port t56 240sx, 700whp or more goal after turbo was going to run comp cam Lsr 243/259 until Im ready for boost (single s475) but after seeing the video I'm thinking too much cam for daily driver/longevity? Advertised Intake Duration:293
Advertised Exhaust Duration:309
Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift:243
Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift:259
Intake Valve Lift:0.624
Exhaust Valve Lift:0.624
Lobe Lift Intake:0.367
Lobe Lift Exhaust:0.367
Lobe Separation:114
Intake Centerline:111
Exhaust Close ATDC:38
Intake Open BTDC:34
Exhaust Open BBDC:90
Intake Close ABDC:78
5.3 s366 216/220 cam. Works great on the street. Fast spool up, lots of tq. Will probably only make upper 5’s on pump gas but 500whp in a 3300 lb truck is plenty. This is with a 5spd too.
Good stuff
@@richardholdener1727learned from the best.
Is that s366 a newer billet sxe model or the older one? I ask cause I’m thinking of using a s364sxe on my 6.0 LS and wonder if it’s too small. .96 hotside and 80mm turbine…..
@@Toojz4u older. S364 is way too small for a 6l. Even the s366 is pretty small for a 5.3.
@@or-ian6973 yea I figure it’s super small but it’s rated for more flow than the older s366 and I’m just going for down low truck power, something that’ll spool quick for climbing these Rocky Mountains. I figure maybe jump up from the .96 a/r to a 1.10 or bigger….but maybe I shouldn’t try to use old parts from my supra just to save money lol
I was wondering if you've ever considered doing a test on a max torque built 6.2 LS boosted to the limit of the stock bottom end? Like maybe cathedral port 706, truck norris cam, trailblazer SS intake. Boosted to the 3 bar map limit just to see what that torque curve would look like before it blows up. I think it would make a killer street engine.
All I have left is the turbo hotside on my daily driver and it's a boosted 09sierra flex fuel daily driver.
I had a valve event this morning. It was violent. And stinky
Did I miss the part where you talk about when & if we need forged internals?
Richard, admittedly I haven't listened to the whole show yet. But I've wanted to ask you for a bit. What is your daily? Love your dyno videos and the price of the information ; ). Would you indulge us and daily drive a turbo LS combo daily and keep us updated on how it's performing with the ups and downs? Thanks and I will continue to watch.
2002 Chevy Silverado-all stock 5.3l
Thanks man. I appreciate you.
I put 300,000+ miles on a turbo 6.0. It was problem free. I changed the oil and filter often as well as keeping air filter clean.
It was a LQ4 and 4L80E with a S475/83 turbo. 60# injectors, dual walbro 255 pumps, water/air intercooler and Water/methanol injection. Stock 4l80 with a trucool 40k cooler, 3.42 gears and 30" tires.
It would chug along at 70mph hauling a trailer in overdrive with converter locked thru the hills.
⭐Please compare S476 with 87mm Turbine T4 vs a S476 with 96mm Turbine T6 🙏 Back pressure vs response vs power improvement with the 96 turbine from better back pressure ratio
In todays world we have multiple turbos and variable timing.
Just keep complicating the inner works until it all comes crashing down.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
A camshaft cannot be properly specced for a turbo engine without knowing the back pressure and the boost pressure.reversion happens in N
A. Engines.in the 70d and early 80s we gained power with nitrous engines by opening the ex valve earlier with the same shot.
What's the most you can get out of a Vortec 4200 NA without going to extremes? Like only the air handler, cams, exhaust manifold, and maybe the Pistons.
Hello please tell us the viewers if you have any engines that you sell after using for on line dinos??? Thanks! Looking for a good drag race engine??
I wish he had corn juice up here in Canada hahaha
3/4 full race
Haha hahaha 😁😉
I'd love to see a single pattern sbc boosted. Even something easy like the 280ar
it works-they just usually make less than a dual pattern
@@richardholdener1727 yeah I was thinking that might be the case, but for a daily with a manual trans where you can get away with a narrow power band I was wondering if it would help spool up, bring power on faster etc.
What are your thoughts on turbo with a manual trans for daily driving?
Please talk about what lt takes to turbo a non turbo engine im tryn to turbo a 1998 pontiac firebird 3.8 it dont work well
Journal bearing last longer. Most OE turbos are journal
Richard. I would like to see what you need theoretically like parts wise for a boosted v8 build for instance and where to place things as a general rule, etc. I have a low compression forged bottom end 355 carbed lt1 that is gapped for boost. Been driving around n/a for over a year. I have a 78 mm on3 turbo. My plan is to go blow through. Would like to know the reality of daily driving a blow through carb setup.
YOU NEED TO START WITH THE RIGHT CARB
@@richardholdener1727 yes, I was looking at offerings from CSU and C&S, they both have 750 cfm offerings which is a little big CFM wise but that seems to be the only carb size that is sold. I was going to pick one, and start trying to fabricate a hot side. It seems too easy to be true, once the hot side is done and you figure out the placement of the turbo, oiling, etc. car in question is a 92 camaro. Will be using a mig welder.
Is to single 63 mm trubo small for a 355 with factory you with elderbrock performers and a comp efi 232 242 at 50 535/573
FOR WHAT POWER LEVEL?
Running a 219 dur and 108 lobe sep on a turboed slant six. Guess what, sounds cool and immediately spoils to 8 lbs with a CT26. It’s very fun to drive.
I been looking around at cams to swap in a 85 truck 350. Was looking at some circle track low lift cams. Or maybe something alittle bigger. But was wondering if you ever did like couple different sized performance cams with a standard stock heads. Swap heads for combustion size to see what 8to1, 9 to1 or 10to1 had a difference in power. How much power per point in compression.
IT'S 3-4% per full point?
@@richardholdener1727 thanks for the that. I'm on a crazy budget trying to get 70 monte carlo back on the road.
What about a Stock vortec 350 that has been swapped to carb?
How do you keep boost up in between shifts?
Although I've never owned a Turbocharged vehicle, I've always wanted the almost free increase in power and performance that turbocharging provides. I've also always thought that turbocharging a daily driver, and not for maximum hp, if done properly, should also provide improved mpg. I just replaced my 1997 5.7L/350cu.in. GMC engine in my K1500 pickup with a stroker 383cu.in. engine in hopes of giving me enough power and torque to tow a 10,000lb or less trailer up freeway grades without slowing to a crawl, but after about 2,000 break-in miles, I was greatly disappointed in the results this new engine provided with the stock Vortec spider injection system, so now I'm searching for alternative modifications that will give me the power and torque I need for my towing needs. I've already spent about $6,000 on the stroker engine and install, so on my retirement income, I don't want to spend over $2,500 to $3,500 in additional parts and labor to reach my goal. Do you think I can get a turbocharged intake system (and any needed ignition improvements) for that amount for this engine, and could I expect to see 400+ hp and 475+ torque from a turbocharged 383 GMC/Chevy engine on a budget? Edit: I've also already spent about $2,000 upgrading my suspension and brakes to equal a 3/4 ton truck, and added a brake controller, to make towing up to 10,000lbs safe.
Speaking of "free power," using a programmable boost controller would allow you to just dump much of your exhaust for efficiency until you needed power, then you could flip on the boost and go for it, much like the "boost screw" between the seats on the Porsche 930 turbo.
you would be better off getting a diesel truck
@@TurtlelooTheTurtle I know getting a diesel truck would be the best option, but that is out of my price range.
@@traveling.down.the.road56 your main issue with adding a turbo to your truck will be that your spider injection will be the limit.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 thanks for the reply, but I’m willing to replace my stock injection system with an aftermarket version that works well with a turbocharger or even switch to a carburetor plus turbocharger. I’m just not knowledgeable about hot-rodding small block Chevy engines and how you can manipulate their engine computer modules that control the injection system, timing and I suppose the transmission shift points. I’m willing to modify all of it, but need advice from someone who knows what to do and what parts to get.
This is an old conversation but just wanted to mention 17psi for a diesel is nothing, most stock diesels hit 30psi when loaded and 60-80psi is common with tuned up compound setups, diesels are built way better running 17-22:1 compression ratios and detonation is not a problem
G'day there Rich, I have a lm7 with summit pro ls +2cc dome pistons+rods, stock 799 heads with crower dual valve springs and a comp cams 224/230 @ .050 114 lsa .581 .589 lift. What sort of na power would you expect from this on the engine dyno? Planning on feeding it e85 and around 28 psi through a g42-1450. Cheers for any feedback and love your videos mate, keep up the good work 👍
430-440 HP OR SO
@@richardholdener1727 thank you sir 👍
Just curious about recommendations for a torquey cam that's very responsive in a 5.3 based 383 stroker with a compound GT45/GT35. This would be going into a vehicle weighing than 4000lb that doesn't do much or no towing? Which 'Truck Style' cam would work best. Or would there be better camshaft and turbo combinations than the GT45/GT35 that I mentioned for responsiveness and torque. Thanks
WHY COMPOUND AND A MILD STAGE 1 OR TRUCK, OR STAGE 1 NA CAM
I thought that by using a compound turbo setup that I would lose less torque on the low end while increasing power at the high end. I'm new to turbos and camshafts and my inexperience obviously shows. I'm basically looking to maximize torque on low end and increase responsiveness of the turbos. Or would a more aggressive camshaft and a correctly sized single turbo work better. Just thought that more aggressive camshafts lose significant torque on the low end.
Have you done any compound setups on Subaru 2.5L? I am busy with a setup for a street track car. 286 cams, rev kit, Manley pistons, turbo tuff rods, 625+ rod bolts, 14mm 625+ head bolts, 2000 casing bolts, +1 valves, ported heads. The problem I have is the turbo combination as compounding is not a thing in my country so no one can really offer assistance. I have considered to supercharge compound with a GT35.
Motor will be capable of 1200hp but will only be running it at 800hp.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Richard I currently have a ly6 6.0 out of a 3500 van that I will be putting in a truck and I want to do twin turbos I am a welder instructor and can’t wait to fabricate the piping definitely go to do titanium because I think it would be so much fun I do not want to go to small on them but I also want to make sure they they work well at lower rpms just seeing what size you recommend and I would really like to make 1000 hp +
1000 hp can be easily done with stock truck manifolds
@@richardholdener1727 The advantage of fancy Ti headers is in heat retention, and if they have relatively identical and long primary tubes, then scavenging and cylinder-to-cylinder balance.
Ti is a very poor conductor of heat.
I want to see u do a video on when to upgrade fuel meaning... when 91 or 93 is no longer sufficient..
Depends on way too many things to ever test it for the crowd. Compression ratio, fuel type, boost level, IAT, timing, end goal…
Went from daily turbo to cam talk quick
So I'm running forged with factory displacement on 6.1 hemi with ported heads and intake manifold, valve spring kit and 600 lift cam, and supporting fuel mods. My question is what would be the ideal turbo/turbos combo? Power goals around 6-700rwhp capable of 4 digit hp numbers with just switching maps and load a 1,000hp tune. With all that said and done all while being located in Las Vegas with that crazy Vegas weather like 115 ° degrees every summer to almost snowing temps in the winter...
a single s480 will work
@@richardholdener1727 is that a specific brand or size/spec turbo
Richard has a lot of videos on that subject and your particular brand of engine isn't a major factor. Watch and share a bunch of his videos that he has and it'll answer this question
You were saying the high lift cam would be unstable. I'm currently gathering parts for my pre eagle 5.7 hemi stroker with ported 6.1 heads and the cam I have spec's are 229/239 lsa 111, 635/613 but actually comes out 230/240 when entering the valve events in a cam calculator. This will be an NA build with possible small shot of nitrous in the future mainly for street use. Should I be concerned with the lift of my cam? The .635 is higher than I was planning on but??
CAN YOUR SPRINGS HANDLE THAT LIFT
@@richardholdener1727 My Manley 221431-16 springs are rated at .650 lift and my coil bind will be in the .060 range on the intake.
Why do people always focus on cylinder head flow and forget or ignore port energy?
Or was David Vizard just talking out the side of his head? 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
And can I improve a mid 2000s Toyota 4 valve head?
Whelp, I went 11.5:1 pistons and 7500rpm cams in a 5.4 4v, will piston ring gap hurt my NA hp while I save up for a turbo? It'll be mounted under the back seat area where the first muffler goes, I have forged connecting rods and was thinking a G35 or G42 Garrett turbo, my car is a t56 manual with a twin plate
IT WILL BE FINE
Hey Richard I have a vsr 7875, is that to big for a 4.8 I want around 550-600hp. Also have a 218/224 cam with 600 lift and 660 lift springs
THAT TURBO WORKS, BUT THERE ARE BETTER CHOICES FOR 500-600 HP
A much better way to relate the valve overlap period is as a percentage of an entire revolution. 6000 rpm is a small fraction of time by itself so you a4e making tge overlap period sound even shorter than it is. Consider the time for 1 Revatio 6k rpmnrate being the base time. Ninnthat casebthe over lap period is not nearly as short as you make it in your examplel 6000 rpms is one rev or 1/100 of a sec or 10 milseconds. So that equals 100 % of a rev. That is of 360 degrees. Take a 228/232 110 lsa 108 icl cam. It has 10 degrees of overlap. So that is 2.78% of a rev. So out of ab10 milsec of 1 rev at 6k rpm its 2.78 milsec. That's a jeasursable amount. Something under 1% would be small not almost 3%.
The issue us nit loosing boost as in fresh air coming into the cyl. It's having the exhaust from drive pressure which is almost alwa7ys higher than boost back filling the cyl. That is an issue with pressurized systems Both valves are open and exhaust that has already left the cyl is not pushed back in for 3% of each cycle.
So yes its small period vs human time but high rpm tengine time it's much more almost 3%. Still as you sta5e it's not a big deal for street. But if your gonna put a new cam in anyways why not have its specs optimized for a turbo. Some stock cams have overlap separation or negative overlap.
What you want from a cam and head is a engine that cyl flows very well on the exhaust side. It helps lower cyl pressure .
overlap is not the enemy of turbo motors-do more testing
I'm wanting to twin turbo my 94 mustang gt that I'm building a 289 to drop in it. What I want to know is what turbos to use. I'm running a engine pro flat tappet hyd. stage 3 camshaft. Forged pistons afr 165cc renegade heads , msd 6al and a gear drive. What turbos do I recommend?
289?
What truck cam would you recommend like the one you mentioned at about 29:15 ? Do you have a dyno video with it? 2008 5.3 in a suburban with turbo goals in the future.
btr truck norris
@@richardholdener1727 Thank you. I have efi live. Is the tuning close to stock for that cam or do I need a dyno tuner?
But does this in its own right help with scavenging with the valve over lap due to the LAS of say 110* over let’s say 114* to expense the Knox gas and unburnt exhaust gasses? Please correct me if I’m wrong.
does what?
Should turbo have seperate oil supply and pump? Electric pump? Might solve lot of relibility problems.
YOU WANT A SEPARATE OIL TANK FOR THE TURBO?
Turbo been blowing up engines, at least if separate it toasts only tubo
Is CX Racing still in business? They don't answer the phone or emails. 🤷🏽♂️
hey Richard I have a important question I have a 6.0 I gapped the rings and I’m putting the rods back on and I bought the Arp rod bolts 2346301 but I keep reading about you have to resize the rod with new bolts so I’m thinking about returning the bolts what’s your thought it’s been driving me crazy I haven’t taken off the old stock bolts yet
use stock bolts
awesome I will use the stock bolts thank you Richard for replying so quickly I can’t even imagine how many comments you get for you to reply back so fast means so much to me thank you i’m going to watch a couple of your new videos right now
would a gt45 turbo be a good choice for a 1988 fiero formula with an ls and 4t80e transmission.
YES FOR 700 HP
Have you dynoed Tri-Y headers on BBC
I am building a single turbo BBC Alum 582ci big block.
My goal is big midrange and top end for drag racing.
I don't think so
Dart a little M block 383
Forged internals
AFR 220 Eliminator heads
Solid Roller .238/.243 w .579” lift 112 LSA
AFR single plain intake
Twin VSR 6782 turbos
Does this combo seem good. I was thinking I may need more displacement, something like a 400 or 406.
displacement is fine-i would use a smaller cam
@@richardholdener1727 Smaller? I am guessing duration, especially on the exhaust side?
I'm building a turbocharged Chevy 355 with a T-76 turbo backed up by a T-56 manual transmission. I'm having a bit of an issue with fuel injectors sizing and picking an intercooler I'll be running only 5psi max and my car doesn't have an open grill so I'm thinking air to water but I don't know what size I need .
LOOK AT THE POWER RATINGS OF THE COOLERS-5 PSI IN A SBC WILL BE EASY TO INTERCOOL
@@richardholdener1727 it's a 1986 trans am with Air conditioning I'm leaving in so I'm thinking about a smaller air to water intercooler. Would 60lb injectors work or can I get away with 42lb/hr injectors
You're putting a Chevy in a Tesla, aren't you?
@@exploranator good lord no I'm a purest Chevy with Chevy Ford with Ford the only time it's okay to mix it up is with a Ford 9 inch diff in a Chevy
Hey I have a 2005 GMC Yukon Denali and I put a 05 6.0 408 stroker crank in it with a BTR V2 stage 4 cam and a throttle body spacer cold air intake and I'm wanting to know how much horsepower I'm making the vehicle runs great though
need more info
I'm late. But, what would be a proper cam for a 5.3 that has twin 5865's, 6 speed manual, 3.73 gears, 9.7-9.75CR, weights probably 34-3500lbs without driver, is a street car but also does autocross and track day events? The current cam is WAY to big. Thanks.
SOMETHING VERY MILD AND THOSE TURBOS SEEM A LITTLE BIG FOR WHAT YOU ARE DOING
@@richardholdener1727 thanks for the reply. Something like a 212/218? I hadn't considered the turbos were too big. How would you size them?
@@nathanhamilton5078 BTR appears to have dumped their St 1-3 truck cams for their new truck norris. The truck norris dyno graph made me order it. Check it out.
Hello! I have a 5.3 with 706 ported and polished heads gen 4 rods and was wondering if VS racing 7875 twin turbos be okay with a BTR stage 3 twin turbo cam and spring kit. Trying to make 1200+ hp. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
THOSE WOULD BE WAY TOO BIG AS TWINS FOR 1200 HP
@@richardholdener1727 what would be your recommended choice?
You think 2 gt45s would be sufficient. I just don't want to buy to small and then later on down the road decide to go for 1500. Also running the Holley low rise intake.
WILL THE GT45 MAKE 600 WHP ON A 3GEN 5.3 SUMIT STAGE 2 TURBO CAM ?
yes-and with almost any other
What do you suggest on a 440 build up
for what power level
Im curious at what boost level does a stock ring gap need to be adjusted?
it's not a boost level-it's a ring temp level
I'm beginning to think all cams are turbo cams
That's the spirit. Just put some boost to it.
They are..
Doesn't the camshaft play a very major roll in Dynamic cylinder pressure? And Isn't Dynamic cylinder pressure the most important factor in how much boost you are able to run?
I don't understand the notion that which camshaft you choose is trivial when applying boost.
dynamic compression is not the most important factor in determining how much boost you can run
Has anyone used stock cam but change valve springs and added 1.6 or 1.7 rocker arms?
that video is up
@@richardholdener1727
Hi
ty
What’s the name of that vid if you recall?
Ty
what about marine high perf cams? marine cams have the big overlap....so not a good choice for turbo application A?
400 small block t application? no one seems to have any real insight on this as its not common........
help...
A MARINE HIGH PERFORMANCE CAM IS USUALLY A VERY MILD CAM COMPRED TO ANY AFTER MARKET CAM. AND OVERLAP IS NOT BAD FOR A TURBO MOTOR-IF IT MAKES MORE NA POWER, IT MAKES MORE POWER UNDER BOOST
How about the BTR hid rod cam and turbo?
YES-THAT CAM WORKS TOO
@@richardholdener1727 Thanks for the reply. I really liked the power curve on your dyno video. Whats your opinion on trunion upgrades? ill see if you have a video on that too.