There's one camp that says you shouldn't caulk around the toilet. If there's caulking all the way around it, and the wax ring leaks, you'll never know it's leaking. That could potentially force the water to leak into the wooden subflooring and we all know what happens next, over a period of time. Of course, if the house and toilet are sitting on a concrete pad, it might not be a major problem. If you don't caulk around the toilet, and the wax ring leaks, you should see it pretty quickly. Maybe caulk around the toilet, but leave a small area uncaulked at the back of the toilet? Sort of like a weep hole.
Properly installing the wax ring and flushing the toilet few times prior to caulking should tell you if it's leaking or not, but it's recommended to check and re caulk every once in a while!
When I tiled the floor and replaced the toilet, I filled the gap with grout. It supports the toilet firmly. I also used a flexible plastic seal instead of a wax ring. If it ever leaks, I'll see it in the basement on top of a chest freezer.
There are much better caulks around than silicon ( which sticks to nothing ) these days - my favourite is CT-1 which will even set underwater, and it will stick to literally anything. It sticks like glue to even glazed ceramic and remains flexible. I would also wipe around the base of toilet with methylated spirit before caulking because you need to make sure no grease is present. You can even use CT-1 to grout the gaps in tiles, especially in the lower half of shower cubicle because normal grout is always likely to crack and loose water behind the tiles
What are you are talking about? Silicone sticks fine when installed correctly. There are thousands of hi rise buildings world wide,with all types of cladding ,that use silicone to seal their exteriors. Many have functioned perfectly for 20-30 years or more.It is routinely used in biotech and industrial clean rooms globally. YOU WILL NEVER SEE CT-1 used in critical applications outside of the UK. I always laugh when someone thinks that a sealant that is not even marketed to the global industrial trade( because it is an inferior product) but only to the home building market ( who only use a fraction of the material) is superior. I have installed well over 100 miles of sealant on everything from hi rises, to multi million dollar homes to biotech and industrial clean rooms. To many other applications. Silicone bonds fine as long as you clean well and don’t do something stupid like using a liquid, especially water or worse soapy water to tool with.It does require primer from time to time. Of course when you use inferior brands of silicone you well get inferior results no matter what you do. And for the claim of installing over 100 miles of sealant. Our base contract is for 300 lineal feet a day.1500’ a week.6000’ a month, 72000’ a year. In 10 years that is over 130 miles. I have been installing sealants professionally for over 45 years. The a large percentage of that is on high rises and the vast majority( not all) are silicone. Silicone has a globally proven track record.
@@tbewin1z143 Why do you hate it? Silicone is not right for every situation. In fact for the typical homeowner I only recommend silicone in wet interior areas ( bathrooms, kitchens) and only in places that will never need to be painted. For most Exterior applications on typical houses I recommend polyurethane, because it can be painted if necessary. But both have to be installed correctly. And both are much more difficult to use than acrylic latex. But acrylic latex is the lowest quality caulk available and should never be used for any area susceptible to water infiltration. ( kitchen sink areas, bathrooms, or exteriors)
This is exactly why you should never let a handyman do caulking. It ABSOLUTELY has to be cleaned with solvent. NOT a magic eraser that contaminates the bonding surface.And if you look closely there is a huge gap at the first grout joint. It HAS TO BE tooled in both directions to achieve a proper bond, especially on tile.Guaranteed to fail prematurely.
@@Nahhhhhhson no never use any chemicals like that. I should have been more clear. Clean with alcohol or acetone and wipe it dry with a clean cloth. Don’t let it dry on its own.They can leave a film too but it is easily removed by drying it with a clean cloth.
1 have been a professional caulker for over 45 years and you are exactly right. This is what most amateurs get wrong. Using silicone is first and foremost about water infiltration and the minimum joint size is 1/4”
There's one camp that says you shouldn't caulk around the toilet. If there's caulking all the way around it, and the wax ring leaks, you'll never know it's leaking. That could potentially force the water to leak into the wooden subflooring and we all know what happens next, over a period of time. Of course, if the house and toilet are sitting on a concrete pad, it might not be a major problem. If you don't caulk around the toilet, and the wax ring leaks, you should see it pretty quickly. Maybe caulk around the toilet, but leave a small area uncaulked at the back of the toilet? Sort of like a weep hole.
Properly installing the wax ring and flushing the toilet few times prior to caulking should tell you if it's leaking or not, but it's recommended to check and re caulk every once in a while!
Seems you need to check if the waxring is 100% sealing between toilet and flange.
Simple and clear, assumes you know nothing, very helpful
When I tiled the floor and replaced the toilet, I filled the gap with grout. It supports the toilet firmly. I also used a flexible plastic seal instead of a wax ring.
If it ever leaks, I'll see it in the basement on top of a chest freezer.
Eeewwww😜😂 move the freezer 😂😂😂😂LOL
Very helpful. Thank you
Thank you!
There are much better caulks around than silicon ( which sticks to nothing ) these days - my favourite is CT-1 which will even set underwater, and it will stick to literally anything. It sticks like glue to even glazed ceramic and remains flexible. I would also wipe around the base of toilet with methylated spirit before caulking because you need to make sure no grease is present. You can even use CT-1 to grout the gaps in tiles, especially in the lower half of shower cubicle because normal grout is always likely to crack and loose water behind the tiles
What are you are talking about? Silicone sticks fine when installed correctly. There are thousands of hi rise buildings world wide,with all types of cladding ,that use silicone to seal their exteriors. Many have functioned perfectly for 20-30 years or more.It is routinely used in biotech and industrial clean rooms globally. YOU WILL NEVER SEE CT-1 used in critical applications outside of the UK.
I always laugh when someone thinks that a sealant that is not even marketed to the global industrial trade( because it is an inferior product) but only to the home building market ( who only use a fraction of the material) is superior. I have installed well over 100 miles of sealant on everything from hi rises, to multi million dollar homes to biotech and industrial clean rooms. To many other applications. Silicone bonds fine as long as you clean well and don’t do something stupid like using a liquid, especially water or worse soapy water to tool with.It does require primer from time to time. Of course when you use inferior brands of silicone you well get inferior results no matter what you do.
And for the claim of installing over 100 miles of sealant. Our base contract is for 300 lineal feet a day.1500’ a week.6000’ a month, 72000’ a year. In 10 years that is over 130 miles. I have been installing sealants professionally for over 45 years. The a large percentage of that is on high rises and the vast majority( not all) are silicone. Silicone has a globally proven track record.
@@genecarden780 LOL....if you say so.
@@genecarden780found the silicone salesman, i hate the stuff
@@tbewin1z143 Why do you hate it? Silicone is not right for every situation. In fact for the typical homeowner I only recommend silicone in wet interior areas ( bathrooms, kitchens) and only in places that will never need to be painted. For most Exterior applications on typical houses I recommend polyurethane, because it can be painted if necessary. But both have to be installed correctly. And both are much more difficult to use than acrylic latex. But acrylic latex is the lowest quality caulk available and should never be used for any area susceptible to water infiltration. ( kitchen sink areas, bathrooms, or exteriors)
@@genecarden780 because it sucks and looks like crap
Thanks l am a widow and l need to get it done thank you so very much 😊
This is exactly why you should never let a handyman do caulking. It ABSOLUTELY has to be cleaned with solvent. NOT a magic eraser that contaminates the bonding surface.And if you look closely there is a huge gap at the first grout joint. It HAS TO BE tooled in both directions to achieve a proper bond, especially on tile.Guaranteed to fail prematurely.
So use something like goo gone to clean the old grime and caulk off before applying the new?
@@Nahhhhhhson no never use any chemicals like that. I should have been more clear. Clean with alcohol or acetone and wipe it dry with a clean cloth. Don’t let it dry on its own.They can leave a film too but it is easily removed by drying it with a clean cloth.
ale jak tak będziiesz walił mocno kawałkiem ostrej blachy to co to będzie z powierzchnią płytek?
It may leave a scratch mark but it can easily be polished off.
Not as clean looking as I would do it. Plus, a slightly larger bead of silicone to insure longer lasting coverage with less cracking.
1 have been a professional caulker for over 45 years and you are exactly right. This is what most amateurs get wrong. Using silicone is first and foremost about water infiltration and the minimum joint size is 1/4”
Nice clean what ?
I need to scrape this to add a new wax less seal in my toilet it's old n it stinks