FiTech Timing Control Setup- 1969 Camaro
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- čas přidán 29. 11. 2020
- In this video I show how to set up an engine to use the timing control feature of the FiTech EFI system. You would also use this same setup on any aftermarket EFI system like the Holley Sniper.
In this video perform the following:
4:58 Install an MSD 6AL ignition box
15:52 Install an MSD Pro Billet distributor and show you how to lock it out.
28:09 Wire the 6AL box
36:05 Mount an MSD Blaster2 Ignition coil
41:35 Make a coil wire
44:49 Setup the FiTech timing features
______________________________________________________________________ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Hi Pete, I came across your FiTech video on the 69 Camaro looking for fixes for what I think is EMI issues. TRied almost everything to tame it. Runs best with the battery wire disconnected from the alternator. The RPM signal all over the map and stalls, disconnected the RPM's acts normal and stabilizes. Won't run long without the alt./ voltage. Tried direct alternator to battery ground, tried twisting the bat. power & ground...pulled the harness away from the intake toward the right fender. Put clip on noise suppressors ( I think called farrans ) I checked the TPS liked you showed, its fine. The coolant temp. is wacky ambient showed 66 degrees, started engine and jumped to 107, also it stops at 185 and doesn't get any higher...all readings are from the hand held controller. By the way, Chevy ZZ4, removed Holley 4bbl and put on the FiTech 36203 throttle body kit, less the hi pressure tank fuel pump, used the FiTech Fuel Force 50004 ( already had MSD dist. #8360 and Blaster 2 Ign. coil. I think EMI is the real issue 63amp single wire GM alt. ( already replaced it per FiTech guys. ) Thinking of dropping to a 37amp. Any thoughts??
My Man Pete! Always a good day when Pete has a New Video!
It’s a long one!
Nice 👌
Great video
Thank you. Hope it helps if you’re installing an EFI system.
So Wished I lived out by ya,would definitely be the Camera man.lol
If you don’t mind sharing what is your loop rate up and loop rate down numbers set at? The idle doesn’t hang when you revved it
I have put a fitech on a 1887 5.8 I don't have rpm signal from tachmy tack wire is connected to the ecm did hook it up right
Hey, I had a question about fitech, I bought a truck with fitech system but I was told it was tuned for e85 you have any idea how to go back to 91 octane or higher what I need to adjust? Thanks in advance
They either changed the AFR tables or I have heard of some people fudging the Cubic Inch Displacement (CID) to trick it into adding extra fuel.
@@PetesGarageandperformance ok I see thank you for your response your video was very helpful btw, does the afr need to be higher for 91 octane? That’s what I’ve heard but not entirely sure
The octane of the fuel doesn’t affect the required AFR. The type of fuel does. Pure gasoline (no ethanol) has a Stoichiometric AFR of 14.7. That means for most idle and cruise situations you’d get the best balance of economy and power with 14.7. You need more fuel for power enrichment when the load goes up. So at WOT you’ll probably want to command 12.5 or so. Sometimes idle needs to be slightly richer to have a stable idle depending on how rowdy the cam is.
You should probably have numbers like this in the afr tables even if it’s tuned to e85 which has a stoich afr of about 9.3. This is because the o2 sensor doesn’t know or care what fuel you are running and is just showing the extra oxygen content in the exhaust. Which is why the CID trick works to get it to add more fuel.
The higher the octane, the more resistant the fuel is to knock or ping. You can get away with more timing with higher octane fuel. Which is one of the advantages of e85 because it’s octane rating is 108. So you’d probably have to reduce your timing if you go with 91 octane.
@@PetesGarageandperformance thanks for the information it’s been very helpful, the reason I was thinking of switching is if it’s below 35 degrees its just really hard start but I might try adding more fuel during cranking
Usually the fitech is overly rich on startups. If you have to give it throttle to get it to start and it starts, add IAC airflow. If that doesn’t help then maybe it does need more fuel.
I know this is a really late reply, but when you install the distributor don't you want to line up the reluctor wheel with the trigger magnet?
The reluctor wheel is just an RPM pickup for the computer. The computer then pulses the ignition coil based on what you have the timing set to in the computer. There is also an indexable rotor if you need it, but I’ve never needed it.
Great video, what rivet nut tool are you using. I need this tool
I bought it at harbor freight. www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html
Who's the good looking guy in the car?!
Where?! All I see is John Weaver in there!
@@PetesGarageandperformance that's him!
Great videos BTW! I watched the last 2 to catch up!
So Is An Adjustable Rotor Not Needed?
I’ve installed a handful of these and haven’t had to use an adjustable rotor.
Stupid question why did you not use Fitech CDI? Be gentle if this is an obvious stupid question and I completely do not get it??😀
When we installed this system FiTech did not yet have their own CDI box.
@@PetesGarageandperformance so can I now use the GM distributor that you removed from your small block Chevy?
@@PetesGarageandperformance Thank you for the reply!!
@@mikeloomis2091 you’d need to have a way to lock it out because you’re no longer using the mechanical advance or vacuum advance.
@@PetesGarageandperformance I want to switch this as you did? I have a small block Chevy 350 crate engine I already have the FiTech EFI...I am fairly mechanical and want to do this myself.. your suggestions on a Distributor I am leaning towards A Mallory but unsure which one thank you for any advice you can offer me!
Sorry this is for a e 250 coachman