Leather Seat Cushion Upholstery Tutorial Stickley
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- čas přidán 19. 10. 2021
- Make and upholster a leather spring seat cushion for a Stickley # 319 mission rocking chair or Morris Chair. The focus is leather upholstery for the spring seat cushion in this episode, including making a half lap seat frame, bending and installing zig zag springs, layering the foam in different densities, and sewing a leather cover with blind seam and topstitch detail. The result is a classic sprung seat that's as comfortable as it is good looking. These are perfect techniques to try for arts and crafts style furniture restoration.
Stickley Wood Repair Video... • Gustav Stickley Rocker...
Stickley Backrest Cushion Video... • Stickley #319 Leather ...
Morris / Rocker Seat Cushion w/ piping... • Leather Upholstery Tut...
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#upholstery - Jak na to + styl
I have the almost identical chair. HOMELAND CALIFORNIA 6-13 -24, ,THANK YOU FOR SHARING
That's cool Warren. These classic forms are definitely worth preserving.
Great Great video! Thank you.
Thanks for your nice words. Glad you liked the upholstery topic!
Wow, this was exactly the tutorial I needed!
That's cool Peter! Thanks for letting me know. I still have that chair and it's very comfortable.
Best of luck with your projects.
Awesome inspiration. Thank you . Beautiful stitching.
Thanks Jon!
Thank you so much I am trying to repair a chair I was given but didn't know the term "jute webbing" and you helped me out enormously!!
Hey that's great! Glad some of the info was helpful.
Best
Thank you very informative videos about rocking chairs restorations.
My pleasure. This Stickley rocker was a fun project.
Great video. Very informative. Always wanted to do some upholstery,now I feel a little more confident . Thanks
Great! Good luck if you decide to tackle some upholstery projects.
Any advice on sourcing that carpet runner material? Thanks for the great work!
I get the carpet runners at Walmart. Or I buy deck padding from Fabric Farm Interiors (about 1/2" thick). Thanks for the kind words!
This is great. Fantastic video. One question: What do you look for in an upholstery leather. In other words, what weight (thickness), types of leathers to look for/avoid...and perhaps a good source for us DIYers. I'm about to make a set of chairs for a friend and this will be the first time I'm going to be dealing with leather working on a woodworking project of mine.
Hi David, 2-3oz leather works well for chair upholstery. You'll be buying chrome tanned upholstery leather, not tooling leather or rawhide. I buy all my hides from leatherhidestore.com and overall price and shipping is the best around. I look for medium or low sheen, and supple or very soft feel. Thinner leather is generally easier to sew. 3-3.5oz leather gets pretty thick if you have piping and 4+ layers at the seams.
Best of luck!
Hello. It is possible to purchase a ready-made leather seat cushion for a Stickley Chair like the one you made in the video? I need to replace both seat and back cushions.
I think you would need to take the chair into an upholstery shop. Especially if the seat cushion is attached to the frame. Best of luck! New upholstery makes all the difference.
This is so helpful! Thanks! I have two teak mid-century style living room chairs I want to do this to. One thing I noticed is that they both have cushions separate from the frame and only have stretched material like the carpet you used. No springs or twine. The cushions are currently covered in a really coarse fabric almost like burlap, and I want to move to leather. Could/ should I work in all the springs and other features you put in, or should I just do a foam and dacron and cover it with a leather slip case? I'm worried that it'll get too thick to be the right height if I put in the springs, but I bet it feels better and it may be necessary with leather. Thanks again! I'd love any advice if you have time!
If your chairs have adequate support, and currently use loose cushions, you should be able to redo them in leather. Many of my chairs don't have springs, and use a jute webbing base instead. It can be comfy as long as the foam is soft enough and good quality.
Best of luck!
Thanks so much for these videos! I've decided to try my hand at sewing for my Morris chair. I plan to practice quite a bit with "regular" fabrics before I dig into the leather. In fact, I plan to do an entire dry run with muslin. I was wondering if you have a minute to answer more of my questions:
- any recommendations for a "leather analog" material that would be good to practice with but on the cheaper side?
- I know it depends largely on the leather, but do you have any needle size recommendations?
- can you share your source for quality bonded nylon thread? I see some on Amazon but the reviews indicate that they aren't the best quality.
Thanks again so much for all you do.
That's great you're going for it on the Morris Chair. Any upholstery weight fabric would be good for practicing. Vinyl would be good too, but honestly it's cheaper to just order a $105 hide right now from Leather Hide Store. I just ordered one that was supposedly green, but it's actually a beautiful brown. Full hides and top quality too, just in random colors.
As far as thread, order #92 weight bonded thread from eBay. I've had good.luck from multiple eBay sellers, thread exchange, cowboy sewing etc etc. Needle size should be a #19 or #20 leather point. You didn't mention what machine you're using, but for a Consew or Juki walking foot it's a 135x16 needle in a #19 or #20.
Good luck!!!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you for the quick reply. I priced out getting the work done by a pro near me and, at the quotes and waiting lists I was seeing, I opted to use the budget on the materials + extra for practice and start working toward another skill that'll help my furniture making in the future, too. That's a great idea to just order a less expensive hide from leatherhidestore. That's where I'm planning to order the leather, anyway, but I'm still debating between a few samples. Thanks for the rest of the info. I only have a brother 6100 right now but I've been told I will work alright for leather, just not the ideal machine by far.
Thank you for the video. This is awesome information. Can you tell me how the notches in the frame fit around the legs? Is it a tight fit or do you leave some room for the leather (like an 1/8" or a 1/4" for example)? Thanks again!
Thanks! Leave plenty of room for leather and batting. Nothing worse than a newly upholstered seat that won't fit into the chair. Usually I leave 1/4" gap (minimum) around the perimeter of the seat frame. The corners need at least that much room. Good luck with all your upholstery projects!
Thank you for the excellent explanation
Thanks for sharing these excellent quality videos Willie. Can you please share what thread size you used? And ;have you been able to run T-135 on your Consew 226? or your 206?
I use 92 weight thread for all my upholstery projects. The Consew 206 can handle 135 thread on top. The top loading machines like the Consew 206 and Juki 562 don't seem to like the heavy thread.
Thanks
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thanks for your reply. I really enjoy your content. I built a Morris chair with leather cushions, but had to get help finishing the sewing as my old Singer 66 couldn't hack it. Now I'm building a matching Ottoman and want to repair the cushions on our leather couch, so I'm shopping for a machine. Your doing excellent work with your 206, so I'm leaning in that direction.
@@tektoneng Can't go wrong with a 206rb.
I had trouble running 135 on my 206. Had to run a lighter thread on bottom and even then it frequently hung up.
That is, until I brought it to my (not so) local repair shop for a tuneup and general timing. I mentioned it to this quite skilled tech and he made some finger clearance adjustments, changed a few minor parts springs and the like, smoothed and opened the hole in my presser foot and viola! It sews like a dream with even 170 on top and 135 in the bob. Amazing what a skilled pro can do to improve your machine, best $160 I ever spent in upholstery.@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
Thank you, sorry for the newbie’s question, but is your ash frame 2 or 3” wide?
I usually make the ash seat frame 2-1/2" wide. That way I can cut the angle to make it fit in the chair, and still leave plenty of wood for a solid frame.
Best
Is there any offset rule to dimensioning/sizing your seat frames in terms of how much allowance you should give when building a leather seat cushion like this? Thanks
Hi Paul, I like to size the seat frame so there's at least 1/4" gap on all sides. The corners often need to be notched around the legs of the chair too. The padded seat frame should fit in pretty easily before you add the leather cover.
Good luck with it!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Sorry, I have one more question for you. at 3:12 , how big a notch did you take out of the frames? 1/2", 3/4" ?
@@yoyopg123 I cut 1/2" x 1/2" notches minimum. Maybe a little more if the legs of the chair are particularly bulky or intrude on the space for the seat frame.
Good luck with it!