Hydraulic Clutch 101: Correctly Mounting the Master Cylinder to Maintain the Correct Pedal Ratio
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- It seams like mounting the master cylinder for a hydraulic clutch would be simple enough but given limited space to put it in and a need to connect it to the clutch pedal at a specific point tit quickly become more complicated.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for this video it helped a lot.
You're welcome!
Thanks for that info. What is the pedal ratio for the cars you nominated? I have a 70 Torino thats had a home made setup and there is too much pedal travel. It works out at about 6.6:1. Ive now made it 5:1 whilst keeping the alignment as good as possible and it feels right travel wise but its pretty heavy. Is that about right?
so pedal ratio and hydraulic ratio work together to effect release point and pedal effort. I never actually calculated my pedal ratios as I was trying to have near max stroke of the pedal result in max stroke of the master. I go over pedal ratio and hydraulic ratio in this video czcams.com/video/Q3rGUSIjd_k/video.html I would guess your hydraulic ratio is a little off but that is just a guess. I would need to know required stroke at the slave as well as SC bore and then the bore and stroke of the master to get a better idea what you have going on.
@DazeCars On a 65 Mustang, do you still need to use the Clutch pedal spring, that goes from the pedal to the bracket on the pedal support?
It is not required but some still choose to run it
Have a old toyota rav 4 2001 and yesterday noticed a oil leak in a aluminium block that sits between main and relay cylinder, it has a disk that is sealed with a square gasket, didnt find in the internet its function, do you have any ideia of what is does? best regards
Sorry but I do not know what that is for. My expertise is older domestic vehicles.
I have a 1987 GMCs15 4x4 and looking to switch it to 5speed what’s my best option in your opinion
I have not looked into what 4X4 5 speed options there are so I really don't know
Dang, those Texans are crafty! 🤣
I know right
Have you ever looked into a slave cylinder bracket for a Toploader in a 65 Mustang? I am building a road race car with a set back seat and it looks like a hydraulic clutch system will be the best way to go. I have been planning on designing my own but I am open to saving some time. I want to keep the slave cylinder on the outside of the bellhousing and not use a transmission input shaft mounted slave. Thanks
I do not currently have anything but have been looking at a couple different options to make somthing work.
Thanks for getting back. No big deal, just looking to save a bit of time if you had something. I will figure something out (I am a retired mechanical engineer and have been playing with cars for over 40 years). Most likely I will be working with the stock bellhousing and clutch fork. I will let you know what I come up with if you are interested.
@@kimbarron And right there is why I never designed this system to produce. Attaching to the bellhousing and pushing from the front makes the most sense. A push slave is way better than a pull slave. Problem is there are at least 8 different OEM bellhousing and they are all slightly different. I could never come up with a kit that was one size fits all. I am looking into a system that might work using a modern bellhousing but have not had a chance to test it yet.
@@dazecarsI do agree that a push slave would be the best way to do it. I can see the issues. I forgot about all the different bell housing/clutch fork options that Ford used. I am guessing this is why I have not seen much out there for Toploader options. I am working with just one combination of parts, which will make it a bit easier. An adjustable mounting bracket could be done to help with different bell housings and clutch forks but then there will still be the issue with getting the required stroke length correct do to the different clutch fork lengths (lots of math to do). I may decide to look at the throw out bearing slave option but what a pain if and when you get a fluid leak in the bearing. At least with an externally mounted slave it is something that can be changed out at the track without too much issue. Again thanks!
@@kimbarron I personally can't stand a hydraulic throw out bearing. If not set up correctly usually within .035" they are prone to failure. Easy fix shim it properly. The bigger issue for me is the way they feel... or the lack there of. On a slave system you can still feel what the pressureplate is doing as you engage the clutch just like you can with mechanical linkage. For what ever reason that feeling goes away with a hydraulic TO bearing. Email me through my website and I will let you in on my toploader idea. Not ready to make it public yet until I flesh a few things out but I don't mind sharing in a less public form.