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You may be a retired electronics technician but you are completely incorrect. The voltage coming out of an SCR is NOT DC. It is pulsed AC and the rectifier IS required every time! I have measured the AC with my meter and ALL the aftermarket SCR power supplies available are labeled AC in AC out. This is not to say you can not have an AC to DC SCR type power supply but it’s not a function of the SCR component that makes the power coming out DC. The MC 60 is an SCR type power supply and the voltage coming out of it is in fact DC. But that is because it has rectifying components on board. An SCR chip is designed to only work on AC and it has no other components with in it that convert AC to DC. Unless it is a specifically built DC power supply an SCR voltage controller will require a rectifier EVERY TIME. As to placement of the chokes close to the motor that is a true statement EXCEPT the type of choke/inductor I use after the SCR but before the rectifier is more effective with AC current than DC current so it is used as the very last component before the AC is converted to DC at the rectifier.

Very true. I never expected this video to have this kind of viewership

set it up, breake it in, and make some chips

if they are rubber and structurally sound, it should work

yes the upper can be faced either direction

@@dazecars thank you!

My pleasure

My pleasure

You're welcome

Thanks!

its 1 minute on 5 minutes off

I do have a circuit breaker there as well luckily.

Now it's on and the fan is running we got no sparks or anything but I'm still not getting a reading out of the output

Did I fry my circuit breaker cuz I'm not getting a reading there but I thought their job was to trip and then be reset

fireworks show indicates something is not hooked up correctly. Contact me through my website and send me pix of how you have it wired and I will see if I can spot an obvious issue.

👍

think of it like this with 2:1 gearing. If 1 foot pound is created per revolution at max RPM and at 2:1 you are now getting 2 revolutions from the motor at 1 revolution at the final pout put you have doubled the torque. This is how gearing works in everything. You can convert torque into RPM or the other way around by gearing.

I can not speak to the HP limitations of your lathe as it does not seam to be a good spec to pick a motor by. Max RPM of the lathe and the torque the machine can handle are what is important. I can answer the other question. You are assuming HP is constant but it is not. HP is a function of torque. The HP stat on a motor is at the RPM stated on the motor. DC motors have constant torque so if you have 2 HP at 4000 RPM you will have 1 HP at 2000 RPM. The opposite is also true if you run that same motor at 8000 RPM you will have 4 HP. HP con not actually be measured. All we can measure is torque and RPM and we use those two numbers to calculate HP. This is how every dyno works everywhere. In most cases AC motors are designed to run at one speed so a constant RPM. If the motor is designed properly torque is maxed out at that speed which would also be max HP. Also AC and DC motors play by different rules so you can not take the specs of one and assume it will apply to the other. This is exactly why I created this video so people can create a common denomination and accurately compare an AC motor to a DC motor.

Thanks for the comment. I have heard this argument a lot and at first glance it makes sense but once you look at an MSD distributor cap which is the same size as the smaller cap and is very high energy the argument falls flat. Crossfire and tracing is a potential issue on any ignition and there are a tone of factors that effect it including lower quality OEM cap and rotor, spark plug gap, plug wire quality and most importantly RPM. This cap on an all stock Ford ignition set to factory specs is like to have issues but an upgraded system spending most of its time below 6000 RPM should work without issue. czcams.com/video/uF4pwvYv9Go/video.html

Glad it was helpful!

Pine sol is a joke. Sanitary engineer

@sixtyfourchebby4507 Not a joke, I have used it to restore tones of brittle rubber parts, and they are as soft any plyable today as they were when I restored them 15 years ago. Thanks for the comment

I honestly don't know how it is made or what it is in it that makes it work.

Very!

Good to know! never tried it

My experience with brake fluid is it can cause the rubber to expand significantly bigger than original shape but with the pine sol the rubber does not expand beyond the original form.

I totally agree on "my choice of rubber" for the demonstration. I spent two days scouring the shop and old parts trying to find anything better but no luck. There were definitely still results and the rubber was more flexible after the soak, not that that was easy to see on the video. Not sure what compounds in the pine sol cause the change. My guess is it is the same chemicals that make pine sole a good carb dip.

glad I could help

My pleasure

My pleasure

The problem there is it will tend to dry before is has the opportunity to soak in. The thinner parts of the seal (which are likely to be the most dried out parts) mat benefit but I do not know how effective it will be over all.

lots of ways to do it 😁

based on other boards that use a potentiometer a 5K is probably about right but a 2K on some boards is a little better I would get both and try it. Its a good board and will get it done just make sure to use the choke.

Glad you liked it!

excellent point!

It depends, I don't know what kind of speed range and torque you are currently getting from the motor you have so I have no way of knowing if a treadmill setup would be better or not. that is such I a small lathe a treadmill motor might be too much for it.

@@dazecars based on the calculation you suggested it’s about 1.5 ftlbs of torque 2400 RPM. Mostly wondering if doing the dual speed nobs would be worth it

Most treadmill motors will have more torque than that. I love the two knob system. I can adjust it within a few RPM.

@@dazecars awesome think I’m going to go for it. What size was the lathe you used in your video? The red one that didn’t have an ELS?

the mill lathe combo in my videos does have ELS. The unit is a 16X18. It may look like two different lathes because in some videos there is no mill but in other videos the millhead is attached. Same lathe either way just different configurations.

excellent points

thanks for the shout out I will try and watch it

This should help czcams.com/video/m0cLqKg1byI/video.htmlsi=cIXEHlRjKakgykni

I did reassemble my combo and the result is I no longer have z axis height adjustment. I ended up getting a stand alone mill. Love the chuck, here is the link amzn.to/4edFGFV and then requires a little machine shop backing plate 2961

should smooth things out

My pleasure

contact me through my website

I sent you photos and descriptions. Thank you

👍

in quality there is no comparison. 3 phase and a VFD are the absolute BEST way to go BUT given the cost differences and how well a treadmill motor can be made to work when set up correctly the total value goes to the treadmill setup hands down and is good enough for most applications.

@@dazecars I'm looking on Surplus Center's site right now, and they have ~1HP right-angle gear reducers in 1:5; 1:10; 1:15, and higher for $146. Wondering about choosing the correct ratio model of something like these, and make a purely mechanical setup where a gear box can swap in/out by changing belts - direct drive for wood, as now, and through the reducer for metal - driving the same 4-step pulley for speed change.

Couple issues here. The problem you will run into with those gear boxes is most of them have a lower max RPM than what you will be dealing with. Treadmill motors are typically 3500-7000 RPM. Most of those gear boxes have a 1500 RPM max. And then wood vs metal you are over thinking it. When I set mine up the AC motor I removed was bout 1500 RPM, the motor I replaced it with was 4500 RPM so I geared it as close to 3:1 that way all I needed to do is simply adjust the speed to to the specific material I am cutting.

@@dazecars In this concept, I keep my existing motor - it's 1725 rpm, as is the gearbox maximum input speed - cool there. I think I'll go ahead and get a gearbox and play with it

that makes a whole lot more sense but seams like a lot of $$ for something that is not as user friendly in the end IMHO You can go treadmill for under $100 and then the only thing that ever needs to be changed is the speed @@mccanlessdesign

It did not have the same torque… it has way more 😂 and 50-1500 rpm with the turn of a knob. This should help let me know if you have any questions. czcams.com/video/ZQbyAHPLf5A/video.htmlsi=5eSBcK9M-P-ZnL4Y

here is a playlist with everything I have done to this machine czcams.com/play/PLg4j6XzBdSY9_ut_7jzX7JJktNzLsVyyz.html

Thanks for sharing your experience

my pleasure

best meter I have even had. I managed to pick up a few of that exact same model off ebay but they are hard to find and people want way to much for them.

glad you liked it!!

Thanks 👍 I am giving it the once over because I have ordered a stand alone lathe and this unit will be sold

I have not looked into what 4X4 5 speed options there are so I really don't know

these glasses make all the difference in the world

thanks

email me pix of your board through my website with specific attention to the connecter with a clear image of the writing on the board near the connector.

@@dazecars sent. Also included the included wiring diagram (which did not match this board version). Those diagram can be golden!

That wires up the same as all other MC2100 boards. Make sure you go with pin location not wire color from the harnis and also confirm your PWM is set to the correct hz

Not sure in the real world but with the mild cam I picked the computer was estimating over 450 in torque and just under 400 in HP

I would not mix them. they are totally different chemicals and could react adversely.

@@dazecars I thought about that but wanted you to be the "guinea pig" : )

I think I will stick to one or the other 😂

@@dazecars Agree... but having read the post by JohnThawley...Pine Soll with caution.

That is exactly why I did this video: czcams.com/video/9nCAZA6HThU/video.html

I do not all my kits are designed to work with 5-speeds and their corresponding bellhousings. The only option I know of for a toploader is to use a hydraulic throw out bearing

It is not very affective with corrosion. Most soap based chemicals are not going to tackle corrosion. If the carb body is for sure aluminum the white corrosion power is aluminum oxidize and is very resilient however something lye based will dissolve it BUT it will also etch the aluminum so you need to be very carful not to damage your part. 9do this at your own risk) Purple power is a lye based soap and may cut through the corrosion. lastly many carb bodies are not aluminum but rather pot metal so be extremely carful not to damage the metal as the main ingredient in pot metal is zinc and zinc is easily dissolvable in a verity of chemicals

I personally have not but I have sold lots of kits to F100 guys not sure the years. usually they buy the universal kit specific to their transmission, the master cylinder and the line kit with the 36" upgrade. Not sure what was involved in mounting the master to the firewall and connecting it to the pedal but I know it can be done.

@@dazecars I’ll definitely be in touch then the 83’s have an outline where the clutch master goes on the firewall. I’ll just need a pedal assembly and a kit. I was just curious. I appreciate the reply !

sounds good, I also am good at trouble shooting should the any issues arise.

glad I could help!!!