Sir. This is hands down the best Weber guide given to date. I am now considered the Weber wizard in my area as so many shops have no clue how to dial these in. Alot of shops just throw these on, truck smelling like a gas station at idle. Your video guide is a blessing, much Thanks. Helped with Toyota 22r, Nissan 2.4l, Raider 2.4l, and mazda 12a Carbed. This is the video fellow mechanics, worth a full watch and take notes.
Your video helped me understand so much. I was adjusting all those screws blindly before on my 1986 Suzuki Samuria, but now I feel confident I can restore everything to the way it should be. Thanks a million for the guidance!
Awesome, thanks!! I did the tuning in 8 minutes on my '77 Corolla. Someone had put a clone Weber some time ago, pulled the timing chain, and never finished. I put the car back together and deleted all of the emissions, added a header exhaust, and converted it to electronic ignition. It fired right up but kept back firing and sputtering. I reset the timing and still very unhappy. I reset the the carb tune as per your video and voila!! I ended backing up the mixture screw a half turn after it was set at 2 full turns and it runs like a champ now!! Thank you sir!!
Really helpful - Just bought a 1975 VW T2 1800cc with a Weber 32 36 on it. Not mentioned in Bentley or Haynes manuals, thank goodness for people like you, with thanks, Dave.
Weber Carburetor 32/36 Tuning. This is a video to help share information to our Facebook group. This information favors the 86-93 Mazda Pickups. Join the discussion over on Facebook. facebook.com/groups/mazdaminitrucking/ Contents by time: H:MM:SS 0:01:05 Tuning in 8 minutes 0:10:00 Full Video starts 0:12:35 Genuine vs Clone how to tell 0:19:00 Choke pull off 7 mm gap 0:21:00 Poor Quality of the clones 0:24:33 Float Adjustment 0:34:35 Fast Idle Adjustment 0:42:30 Bowl Vent Discussion 0:43:20 Idle Mixture Adjustment 0:49:00 Choke Adjustment 0:52:52 Choke Pull Off Explained 1:04:30 Engine Idle Speed Adjustment
RE: UPDATED FLOAT ADJUSTMENT - I just got off the phone with Weber. The reason behind the floats needing to be adjusted differently in current day is due to the alcohol content in modern gasoline. The early specs were written when alcohol content in gasoline was around 5%. It's now between 15-20%. This affects the buoyancy of the floats, making them less buoyant, which means the floats need to be adjusted 2-3 degrees further into the float bowl than previous spec. In other words, you want to be adjusting the floats 2-3 degrees in the direction that will make the needle push TIGHTER into the seat. My 32/36 has brass floats. The tech told me what he uses as a frame of reference is the tiny white plastic washer at the end of the accel. pump spring that sticks up between the floats (seen at 29:50). The top of the floats should line up with that white washer when they are adjusted to that 2-3 degree change, without any load on the float spring (like you mention). Again, that washer trick is for the brass floats, I'm not sure about the black foam floats. Call them. They are very helpful!
Truly appreciate the time you took to do this video. I just happened to pick up an old Jeep with this carburetor and it's definitely been many decades since I've had a mess with carbs. Not only good explanations but good videography also
@@williamchase5698 it could be that the idle speed screw is too far in, opening the bottom throttle plate, or the seat is damaged on the mixture screw, or that is a vacuum leak somewhere
One second in and I thought I was about to watch Matt from demolition ranch explain cars to me lol. Glad I took a longer look because this video was really helpful
And... Rebuilt the Weber on my midget. After the very basic breakdown, ultrasonic cleaning, rebuild and somehow miraculously it worked. But then headed right back here to rewatch and relearn everything you taught me last summer.
MazdaMitch. Thanks for this video. It was super helpful. My car was running really rich and come to find out it was set (by previous owner) 2.5 turns out. I adjusted the carb to just beyond 1.75 turns.
Thank you thank you for sharing that knowledge! I'm Working on a 73 baja bug with Weber a Progressive 32 36 DF AV. I know nothing about carburetors (im used used to ecotec 2.0 / FI) but i'm learning and gathering info to keep this air cooled engine running. I like it. It just smells really really rich though.
Had to mess with it 3 times, but the idler jet had a little bugger in it that apparently I could not see. Wire brush hair was the only thing that got it! THX MITCH
Great video- and great message about why you did this. I have an '84 CJ7 -258-4.2L- (Not a Mazda Guy--- but I love my rig just the same)- Wanted to install and adjust a Webber 32/36 to replace the stock - yes-'84 stock carb. -- Thank-you for all the info- calm, clear and concise- - loved the rain on the roof too.
Excellent video thanks. I’m more confident to work on my 1960 Morris Minor running a 12a Nissan motor with a 32/36 Weber now. Thanks for making such an informative video.
Thank you for your video sir, I know your video is for Mazda 32/36 but I purchased a genuine Weber for my 85 Nissan 720 this helped a lot on tuning my carb, my old OEM carb was on its way out dieseling really bad, put the Weber on after operating temp was good idle amazing but when I took it for a spin she continued to diesel not as bad and is hesitating to start have to pump the pedal but if I let it sit over night she’ll start and idle just fine with no issues without pumping the throttle but once it gets to temp it starts to mess up, but like you said in your video I’ll check timing next 👍
Just got a 32/36 for my 1980 VW Dasher, watching this to prepare. Love the video, high quality close ups and simple explanations plus a few amusing edits.
Just wanted to say thank you for the great video, I have a 87 Jeep and I use this same carb on it, when I got the jeep the carb was loose, so I had to readjust everything, this made was a great help.
pro tip about that choke linkage circlip: I just took it off ages ago. Unless you pry that linkage, its not coming off that pin or binding. Never had any issues since then. Makes tuning much easier.
Thank you!! I’m Setting and resetting an older Weber 32/36 on a 22r Toyota. With your videos i am starting to learn this carb and all it’s parts. Im trying to dial in the choke still. Keep the settings and tuning videos coming! Just subscribed.
I learned a lot actually within the first few minutes so thank you because everytime I’m pushing slightly on the throttle it sounds like there’s a lot of air going through so I’ll adjust the mixture screw and see if that changes anything! Also I didn’t wire the choke so that could be a possible problem as well
This was very helpful thanks! I’ve been so nervous about setting up my Weber this year that I’ve held up the progress on my 92 Going to have it running soon!
Thank you so much for such a detailed video. I never thought I'd sit through an hour long video on carbs but it was really helpful the way you explained everything. Thanks for the jibber-jabbering. Really appreciate it. Looking forward to (attempting) to adjust the weber on my 1979 ford escort. Thanks from New Zealand!
Tip - choke gets "warm" simply by the power being supplied, so you can bench "warm up" the choke just by applying voltage to it, if you want to adjust the choke at "full warm", just leave it connected to 12v for a while before setting rotation.
I have twin Weber’s on my Triumph TR7 ... so double the trouble. Thanks for explaining that capping the vent will prevent gas from evaporating out of the bowl. I only drive this car on the weekends, and it always takes a lot of cranking to get going. I thought maybe somehow my manual fuel pump was letting fuel seep backwards. This makes way more sense. Thanks
These are great videos - I appreciate it. I’m not familiar with this at all and my new boat has this carb on a Volvo penta marine engine. I start right up but after hot died on idle - so based on your video I’m thinking I need to play with the choke.
I'm about ten mins in and thanks alot I've learned alot .... but I have a 86 b2000 was running fine and one day it started cutting out going down the road but would ideal perfect I've cleaned and opened it up but everything looks good .. could u do a full rebuild video
45 years ago, the idle jet would clog up on mine. I would back down a hill, turn off the engine, shift to second, close the choke, and release the clutch. Boom idleing again! For a month or two. I miss that 850!
@32:47 they probably used a different float for the initial instructions (Brass) Plastic is the new norm. Only 2mm of float travel from closed to open? Wow, that is tight. Great video!
2 thumbs up ! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, my mom has a Mk2 Escort 1600 auto, and suddenly its just running extremely rough, I've cleaned the carb, bought new boogie cords, new spark plugs new coil, but it is running so rich, the spark plugs are black like charcoal, and the car is giving me about 7 miles /gallon. It's funny how a car can untune itself, but now I think I know exactly what my problem is.
Great video! Thanks for the deep dive. Pretty sure you've solved my problem on my 38/38 DGES that I have in my '64 F100. Need to adjust that choke so the choke valves stay open when the throttle is pressed. Dang thing is stuck in fast idle mode. I'll find out tomorrow!
I've set the idle screw to 1.5 turns, set the idle mixture screw to 2-2.5, set the primary screw to 2 turns out, and it still won't start on its own, I have to feather the gas to get it to start idling,then it'll idle at like 3-400rpm. I'll turn the mixture screw richer and it'll die, I'll turn it leaner and it'll die. All the timing is zeroed out, ignition timing is advanced a few degrees. All new intake and carburetor gaskets. When it does run it's very lean, but i try to give it more gas and it dies
I’ve been having nonstop problems with the Weber I put in my 87 Toyota pickup. Most of that was vacuum leaks, but I’m confident this video just pointed me in the right direction. Thank you. Only thing that’s throwing me off is that I had the fuel mixture screw turned all the way in and it was still running. Maybe I did something wrong somewhere.
You probably had the idle speed screw turned in too much and the plates at the base of the carb were opened up some because of that. Idle speed screw and idle mixture screw are two different things.
@@MazdaMitch yeah I get that they’re different, but you’re saying that the idle speed screw being too high would allow fuel to get in even when the fuel mixture screw is turned all the way in?
@@MazdaMitch appreciate it. I adjusted the choke, and it seems to shift better now. Not great though. If I’m trying to go uphill in first gear, I need to get a running start, and it pops like crazy from the carb. That’s my biggest issue right now. The popping, and the inability to go uphill easily. Fuel regulator is set to 1psi, but I’ve played with that a little and can’t find a sweet spot. Just constant popping when I start off in first, and when I get the rpms too high. I’m really leaning towards a vacuum leak that I’ve missed somewhere, but I was hoping carb/ fuel adjustment would fix it. Either way, your video did help me understand my carb better, and I thank you for that.
One PSI seems extremely low I don't even run a fuel pressure regulator why don't you remove your fuel pressure regulator and increase your timing to about 12°, it'll probably solve all your problems.
This video has been a huge help. Thanks so much for sharing it. I don't know about everyone else, but I don't give a damn how long a video is if it's full of useful information like this one was.
Tons of useful info. Thanks a bunch. Unfortunately the probpem ive been having wasnt addressed that i could tell. My mixtures good, start up choke works good, but heres my problem: genuine weber on an old subaru ea81 in place of the stock hitachi. 4 speed, no od, quite low gearing for a car. So when im pulling 55 im around 3000 rpm, and when i do that for any sustained period, like 2 mins or more, if i take it out of gear to downshift or stop, ill be anywhere from 1300 to 2000 rpm with no load, no foot on the gas, but it idles back down with a tap of the gas. Unfortunately sometimes it goes to the proper 800, but often it wont go lower than 1100 which my unsynchroed 1st and reverse hates, theyre very picky. This can get very nasty in stop and go conditions as there can be grinding and all sort of unpleasantness because it just wont idle down. The only thing i can spot is my throttle linkage seems to have a ton of play in it, it really jangles around in there. Id appreciate a weighin from anyone with carb experience, is this a vacuum issue? It feels to me that theres gas building up in the bowl as i drive thats gotta be burnt off to run right. The issue seems to be worse when its real hot out. I am at high altitude.
I’m guessing Weber 38 about the same. I’m having trouble with mine on cold days. Starts fine then after few minutes idle drops a s I need to stay on the gas to keep in running. After watching your video sounds like my high idle adjustment or choke adjustment.
Thank you so much for this video. I have the same Weber carburetor on my 92 isuzu pup, I took a trip from Houston to San Antonio and back to Houston, went I got home my carburetor is making a loud whinging noise and back fire through out the carb and runs bad and stalls, any suggestions? I checked everything to see if I had a vacuum line busted, I added a new distributor cab, rotor, new cables , and new spark plugs.
Sounds like a vacuum leak, could be at the base of the carb, Check it to see if its loose or take it of and reapply new gaskets and use permatex high tack like I did in the how to install a weber video
I got my Weber carb from LCE performance a toyota parts maker and it doesnt have any country of origin in the spot where it ACTUALLY DOES SAY "made in ______" with a actual blank that looks like was filed and smoothed out. I have a playlist I like to add these type of videos into and added this 1 as well =)
Thanks for all of your videos. All well done and helpful! I have an 87 B2200 Automatic with electric fuel pump and Weber carb. It runs great. The only issue I have is that when the truck is parked for a week or more it takes a while to get it started. Any ideas what the issue could be?
Thanks for the video, great information! I am trying to adjust the idle speed screw with the carburetor installed on my J10 Jeep FS 1974 but it is hard to get to it. Any suggestions? Thanks
Awesome job with the video I just got a truck with the same carb and I’m going to check the idle and choke Can you tell me the best way to run the wire for the electric choke I know it needs to be fused but since it’s a power cable I should run it from the ignition switch cable ? Thanks
What air cleaner you runnin on your 32/36, you try any interesting ones? Getting ready to upgrade the air cleaner (or buy a new filter if I figure the one I have is the best setup), wanted your thoughts thanks for the video, big service to a longtime mechanic but carb newbie
I am running the two in tall k&n style filter thats cleanable. I once ran the ramflo, but I gave it to my buddy Jason. The Ramflo allowed air in at all angles including the top.
Hey, I’m stuck, idle mix all dialed in. Problem is it won’t throttle up. 2 carbs I’ve tried and both die when I throttle up. One is new one is used, same issue
Maybe you mean bog down when you give it a lot of gas? And it's happened on two different carburetors so the problem probably is somewhere else. You could have clogged up exhaust or your distributor may have the vacuum advance disconnected or connected in the wrong place
Sir. This is hands down the best Weber guide given to date. I am now considered the Weber wizard in my area as so many shops have no clue how to dial these in. Alot of shops just throw these on, truck smelling like a gas station at idle. Your video guide is a blessing, much Thanks. Helped with Toyota 22r, Nissan 2.4l, Raider 2.4l, and mazda 12a Carbed. This is the video fellow mechanics, worth a full watch and take notes.
Spread the word, share the videos
@@MazdaMitch Will do. Seems its a lost art
Your video helped me understand so much. I was adjusting all those screws blindly before on my 1986 Suzuki Samuria, but now I feel confident I can restore everything to the way it should be. Thanks a million for the guidance!
Awesome, thanks!! I did the tuning in 8 minutes on my '77 Corolla. Someone had put a clone Weber some time ago, pulled the timing chain, and never finished. I put the car back together and deleted all of the emissions, added a header exhaust, and converted it to electronic ignition. It fired right up but kept back firing and sputtering. I reset the timing and still very unhappy. I reset the the carb tune as per your video and voila!! I ended backing up the mixture screw a half turn after it was set at 2 full turns and it runs like a champ now!! Thank you sir!!
I run a Weber on my 77 celica but I live on cali so I cant get rid of all the emission crap. I mean I already fail smog with the Weber lol
@@jonbertocchi173 ohh, wow. I wouldn't have thought they'd be checking for emission equipment from the 70's.
Really helpful - Just bought a 1975 VW T2 1800cc with a Weber 32 36 on it. Not mentioned in Bentley or Haynes manuals, thank goodness for people like you, with thanks, Dave.
I just watched the whole thing dude, and honestly thanks. This helped me understand everything I needed to know about my weber
Weber Carburetor 32/36 Tuning.
This is a video to help share information to our Facebook group.
This information favors the 86-93 Mazda Pickups.
Join the discussion over on Facebook.
facebook.com/groups/mazdaminitrucking/
Contents by time: H:MM:SS
0:01:05 Tuning in 8 minutes
0:10:00 Full Video starts
0:12:35 Genuine vs Clone how to tell
0:19:00 Choke pull off 7 mm gap
0:21:00 Poor Quality of the clones
0:24:33 Float Adjustment
0:34:35 Fast Idle Adjustment
0:42:30 Bowl Vent Discussion
0:43:20 Idle Mixture Adjustment
0:49:00 Choke Adjustment
0:52:52 Choke Pull Off Explained
1:04:30 Engine Idle Speed Adjustment
Thanks! I recently converted my MG to a 32/36 Weber, and your video helped me to understand it a lot better.
RE: UPDATED FLOAT ADJUSTMENT - I just got off the phone with Weber. The reason behind the floats needing to be adjusted differently in current day is due to the alcohol content in modern gasoline. The early specs were written when alcohol content in gasoline was around 5%. It's now between 15-20%. This affects the buoyancy of the floats, making them less buoyant, which means the floats need to be adjusted 2-3 degrees further into the float bowl than previous spec. In other words, you want to be adjusting the floats 2-3 degrees in the direction that will make the needle push TIGHTER into the seat. My 32/36 has brass floats. The tech told me what he uses as a frame of reference is the tiny white plastic washer at the end of the accel. pump spring that sticks up between the floats (seen at 29:50). The top of the floats should line up with that white washer when they are adjusted to that 2-3 degree change, without any load on the float spring (like you mention). Again, that washer trick is for the brass floats, I'm not sure about the black foam floats. Call them. They are very helpful!
I buy Non Eth whenever I can.
Does non ethanol make a difference?
I took the bait and clicked and learned a few things 😂
This was super helpful and thorough. The visual was a lot better than the block text instructions you usually see.
Great resource man! I need to absorb all of this for my 83 Toyota. I appreciate the time it took. Hope y'all are getting through this virus
Truly appreciate the time you took to do this video. I just happened to pick up an old Jeep with this carburetor and it's definitely been many decades since I've had a mess with carbs. Not only good explanations but good videography also
Very welcome thanks
@@MazdaMitchso if you turn the idle mixture screw all the way in and it doesn't affect the idling at all. What would that indicate?
@@williamchase5698 it could be that the idle speed screw is too far in, opening the bottom throttle plate, or the seat is damaged on the mixture screw, or that is a vacuum leak somewhere
@@MazdaMitch it was the idle speed screw...... you're a lifesaver! Thanks.
One second in and I thought I was about to watch Matt from demolition ranch explain cars to me lol. Glad I took a longer look because this video was really helpful
Good video. My Midget is running rich, had a Weber conversion years ago, and I have no idea how to tune a Weber and this cleared it up.
And... Rebuilt the Weber on my midget. After the very basic breakdown, ultrasonic cleaning, rebuild and somehow miraculously it worked. But then headed right back here to rewatch and relearn everything you taught me last summer.
MazdaMitch. Thanks for this video. It was super helpful. My car was running really rich and come to find out it was set (by previous owner) 2.5 turns out. I adjusted the carb to just beyond 1.75 turns.
Possibly the most useful video I've seen on the matter
Thank you thank you for sharing that knowledge! I'm Working on a 73 baja bug with Weber a Progressive 32 36 DF AV.
I know nothing about carburetors (im used used to ecotec 2.0 / FI) but i'm learning and gathering info to keep this air cooled engine running. I like it.
It just smells really really rich though.
Glad to help
Mitch, brother. I can't appreciate enough of your time and coaching. I'm a huge fan. Thank you.
I appreciate that!
Had to mess with it 3 times, but the idler jet had a little bugger in it that apparently I could not see. Wire brush hair was the only thing that got it! THX MITCH
Great video- and great message about why you did this. I have an '84 CJ7 -258-4.2L- (Not a Mazda Guy--- but I love my rig just the same)- Wanted to install and adjust a Webber 32/36 to replace the stock - yes-'84 stock carb. -- Thank-you for all the info- calm, clear and concise- - loved the rain on the roof too.
Thanks for sharing this video I learned a lot by just watching and picked up some key things on why my Weber is running a bit rich
You just solved my ram 50 issues!! Thank you for all you’ve done!
Excellent video thanks. I’m more confident to work on my 1960 Morris Minor running a 12a Nissan motor with a 32/36 Weber now. Thanks for making such an informative video.
Thank you for your video sir, I know your video is for Mazda 32/36 but I purchased a genuine Weber for my 85 Nissan 720 this helped a lot on tuning my carb, my old OEM carb was on its way out dieseling really bad, put the Weber on after operating temp was good idle amazing but when I took it for a spin she continued to diesel not as bad and is hesitating to start have to pump the pedal but if I let it sit over night she’ll start and idle just fine with no issues without pumping the throttle but once it gets to temp it starts to mess up, but like you said in your video I’ll check timing next 👍
Just got a 32/36 for my 1980 VW Dasher, watching this to prepare. Love the video, high quality close ups and simple explanations plus a few amusing edits.
Wow what a great video thanks for all the detailed explanations, now I can figure out why I have no idle and tons of fuel dropping in the primary, 🙏
Just wanted to say thank you for the great video, I have a 87 Jeep and I use this same carb on it, when I got the jeep the carb was loose, so I had to readjust everything, this made was a great help.
So glad this exists. Working on the carb on my 720.
pro tip about that choke linkage circlip: I just took it off ages ago. Unless you pry that linkage, its not coming off that pin or binding. Never had any issues since then. Makes tuning much easier.
No sir not doing that my look something would bind up.
The only thing missing in this video is when you have dual carbs, but thats me. I'll do my best as is. Great information. Simple and to the point.
Not a lot of mazda b series guys are running dual carbs.
It certainly helped me for when I unbox my DFEV to install in my '71 Fiat 124 Spider! Thanks!
Thank you!! I’m Setting and resetting an older Weber 32/36 on a 22r Toyota. With your videos i am starting to learn this carb and all it’s parts. Im trying to dial in the choke still. Keep the settings and tuning videos coming! Just subscribed.
Hey buddy I just installed one on my toyota pickup, having problems keeping it running. Any advice
Thanks, I deleted emissions on my 90 isuzu. Runs great with the stock carb, but I ordered a Weber 32 36 as they are far less complicated.
I learned a lot actually within the first few minutes so thank you because everytime I’m pushing slightly on the throttle it sounds like there’s a lot of air going through so I’ll adjust the mixture screw and see if that changes anything! Also I didn’t wire the choke so that could be a possible problem as well
Thank you so much. Started watching this video not knowing anything about carburetors. My 76 datsun 620 will run way better now.
This was very helpful thanks! I’ve been so nervous about setting up my Weber this year that I’ve held up the progress on my 92 Going to have it running soon!
This video helped me immensely. Thanks from Australia!
Thank you so much for such a detailed video. I never thought I'd sit through an hour long video on carbs but it was really helpful the way you explained everything. Thanks for the jibber-jabbering. Really appreciate it. Looking forward to (attempting) to adjust the weber on my 1979 ford escort. Thanks from New Zealand!
Thanks for the insight, I'll be trying this on my 4AC after work to hopefully mitigate the problem I have. I'm running wayyyy too rich
So i own a volvo with the same carb, hopefully get mine tuned decently for 2 liter. Great vid
Tip - choke gets "warm" simply by the power being supplied, so you can bench "warm up" the choke just by applying voltage to it, if you want to adjust the choke at "full warm", just leave it connected to 12v for a while before setting rotation.
I have twin Weber’s on my Triumph TR7 ... so double the trouble. Thanks for explaining that capping the vent will prevent gas from evaporating out of the bowl. I only drive this car on the weekends, and it always takes a lot of cranking to get going. I thought maybe somehow my manual fuel pump was letting fuel seep backwards. This makes way more sense. Thanks
Thank you so much! This helped so much! My carb started to idle high!
Best video I've seen for my 83 Toyota 4x4, Thanks
These are great videos - I appreciate it. I’m not familiar with this at all and my new boat has this carb on a Volvo penta marine engine.
I start right up but after hot died on idle - so based on your video I’m thinking I need to play with the choke.
Share with your friends
THANK YOU! And thanks for the timestamps in the description!
Thanks a lot for this mate you went above and beyond
Glad it helped, Thanks for watching.
I'm about ten mins in and thanks alot I've learned alot .... but I have a 86 b2000 was running fine and one day it started cutting out going down the road but would ideal perfect I've cleaned and opened it up but everything looks good .. could u do a full rebuild video
You are a genius 👏!! Thank you for the tip of double cleaning the idling jet , it works on my weber 30 DIC on Fiat 850 coupe
45 years ago, the idle jet would clog up on mine. I would back down a hill, turn off the engine, shift to second, close the choke, and release the clutch. Boom idleing again! For a month or two. I miss that 850!
@32:47 they probably used a different float for the initial instructions (Brass) Plastic is the new norm. Only 2mm of float travel from closed to open? Wow, that is tight. Great video!
Gonna have a look at my mk2 Ford Fiesta Popular 957cc it has this Webber 32TLM carb thanks so much dude
Just bought an 85 nissan pickup. It has a weber that doesn't idle. Gonna try this. Thanks for the video.
I changed the jets in my Weber carb for high altitude jets. My truck is running amazingly better now
2 thumbs up ! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, my mom has a Mk2 Escort 1600 auto, and suddenly its just running extremely rough, I've cleaned the carb, bought new boogie cords, new spark plugs new coil, but it is running so rich, the spark plugs are black like charcoal, and the car is giving me about 7 miles /gallon. It's funny how a car can untune itself, but now I think I know exactly what my problem is.
Great video! Thanks for the deep dive. Pretty sure you've solved my problem on my 38/38 DGES that I have in my '64 F100. Need to adjust that choke so the choke valves stay open when the throttle is pressed. Dang thing is stuck in fast idle mode. I'll find out tomorrow!
I clicked for the thumbnail and stayed for the tuning.
Thank you for all the informations that you provide and help us rookies. Respect brother🤙
I've set the idle screw to 1.5 turns, set the idle mixture screw to 2-2.5, set the primary screw to 2 turns out, and it still won't start on its own, I have to feather the gas to get it to start idling,then it'll idle at like 3-400rpm. I'll turn the mixture screw richer and it'll die, I'll turn it leaner and it'll die. All the timing is zeroed out, ignition timing is advanced a few degrees. All new intake and carburetor gaskets. When it does run it's very lean, but i try to give it more gas and it dies
Thank you sir. Great informational video. I appreciate you taking the time to put all this information out there.
dude, thanks so much for the info
Thanks for taking the time to do this
Thankyou, very helpful!
Thank you for your Gift
I’ve been having nonstop problems with the Weber I put in my 87 Toyota pickup. Most of that was vacuum leaks, but I’m confident this video just pointed me in the right direction. Thank you.
Only thing that’s throwing me off is that I had the fuel mixture screw turned all the way in and it was still running. Maybe I did something wrong somewhere.
You probably had the idle speed screw turned in too much and the plates at the base of the carb were opened up some because of that. Idle speed screw and idle mixture screw are two different things.
@@MazdaMitch yeah I get that they’re different, but you’re saying that the idle speed screw being too high would allow fuel to get in even when the fuel mixture screw is turned all the way in?
Possibly.
@@MazdaMitch appreciate it. I adjusted the choke, and it seems to shift better now. Not great though. If I’m trying to go uphill in first gear, I need to get a running start, and it pops like crazy from the carb. That’s my biggest issue right now. The popping, and the inability to go uphill easily. Fuel regulator is set to 1psi, but I’ve played with that a little and can’t find a sweet spot. Just constant popping when I start off in first, and when I get the rpms too high. I’m really leaning towards a vacuum leak that I’ve missed somewhere, but I was hoping carb/ fuel adjustment would fix it.
Either way, your video did help me understand my carb better, and I thank you for that.
One PSI seems extremely low I don't even run a fuel pressure regulator why don't you remove your fuel pressure regulator and increase your timing to about 12°, it'll probably solve all your problems.
Video was mint man, helped me loads getting ready for my own 32/36 Weber on my 1.6 suzuki vitara
Cheers
Excellent description and break down. Thanks a bunch for the video
Thanks a lot for this useful information. I got my car running a bit nicer because of this =)
Glad it helped!
This video has been a huge help. Thanks so much for sharing it. I don't know about everyone else, but I don't give a damn how long a video is if it's full of useful information like this one was.
Tons of useful info. Thanks a bunch. Unfortunately the probpem ive been having wasnt addressed that i could tell. My mixtures good, start up choke works good, but heres my problem: genuine weber on an old subaru ea81 in place of the stock hitachi. 4 speed, no od, quite low gearing for a car. So when im pulling 55 im around 3000 rpm, and when i do that for any sustained period, like 2 mins or more, if i take it out of gear to downshift or stop, ill be anywhere from 1300 to 2000 rpm with no load, no foot on the gas, but it idles back down with a tap of the gas. Unfortunately sometimes it goes to the proper 800, but often it wont go lower than 1100 which my unsynchroed 1st and reverse hates, theyre very picky. This can get very nasty in stop and go conditions as there can be grinding and all sort of unpleasantness because it just wont idle down. The only thing i can spot is my throttle linkage seems to have a ton of play in it, it really jangles around in there. Id appreciate a weighin from anyone with carb experience, is this a vacuum issue? It feels to me that theres gas building up in the bowl as i drive thats gotta be burnt off to run right. The issue seems to be worse when its real hot out. I am at high altitude.
The linkages. Spray some silicone spray on it to lubricate them. They sound like it's hanging up.
@@MazdaMitch thanks for the reply man! Ill give that a shot. You ever run into one that all loosey goosey like that?
Thank you for your help generousity in sharing your wisdom and skill. Thank you so much again.
S’good! I needed this video, thanks! Mine is on a 1973 VW Bus 1.7 engine
Damn good video. Loads of info that I previously didn't know. 1992 Isuzu pickup.
This guy is the shit he makes it easy for regular people to understand what’s going on keep up the vids !🤙🏾
Very helpful wanna change my Hitachi for a weber dgv not a mazda but a Subaru thanks
Thanks for the info! Now I feel like I have some clue as to what I’m doing.
Actually enjoyed the rain in the back 😂
Thanks for Posting this ! Helped me a lot !
A cheap vacume gauge for $15 sure makes tuning so simple as you adjust timing, idle, & mix off of strongest stable vacuum.
I have one and tried that and it didn't make it any easier.
Many thanks bro, tell ur dog I said hi 👋
Ok 👍
Thank you so much for these video bought a hoodie and a shirt. Wish I could do more.
You can! My videos now have the Super Thanks under the video for tips!
That M16 bolt face tattoo is what's up.
Thanks for noticing.
Thank you for your videos!
Excelente video unfortunately I am not Ebla to fix my back fire I’m timed but I don’t know what I’m doing wrong
I’m guessing Weber 38 about the same.
I’m having trouble with mine on cold days. Starts fine then after few minutes idle drops a s I need to stay on the gas to keep in running. After watching your video sounds like my high idle adjustment or choke adjustment.
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. I have the same Weber carburetor on my 92 isuzu pup, I took a trip from Houston to San Antonio and back to Houston, went I got home my carburetor is making a loud whinging noise and back fire through out the carb and runs bad and stalls, any suggestions? I checked everything to see if I had a vacuum line busted, I added a new distributor cab, rotor, new cables , and new spark plugs.
Sounds like a vacuum leak, could be at the base of the carb, Check it to see if its loose or take it of and reapply new gaskets and use permatex high tack like I did in the how to install a weber video
Thank you for making this video!!
Thanks for the help. Got my itchypussy 2.6l motor purring in the Raider
Lol that autocorrect though (Mitsubishi)
@@MazdaMitch buddy called it that once and it made me laugh so it kinda is its nickname now. Problems every weather change
My weber says weber North America.I done my swap on my Mazda b2000 and never did a Egr block off.Could this effect tuning?
You could have a vacuum leak somewhere like near the EGR. Any leak will affect tuning.
I got my Weber carb from LCE performance a toyota parts maker and it doesnt have any country of origin in the spot where it ACTUALLY DOES SAY "made in ______" with a actual blank that looks like was filed and smoothed out. I have a playlist I like to add these type of videos into and added this 1 as well =)
Thanks for all of your videos. All well done and helpful! I have an 87 B2200 Automatic with electric fuel pump and Weber carb. It runs great. The only issue I have is that when the truck is parked for a week or more it takes a while to get it started. Any ideas what the issue could be?
The fuel is evaporating out of the bowl.
Great job
Thanks for the video, great information! I am trying to adjust the idle speed screw with the carburetor installed on my J10 Jeep FS 1974 but it is hard to get to it. Any suggestions? Thanks
I don't have one on a Jeep so I can't help you. All I can say is try harder?? Maybe use a different screwdriver??
Awesome job with the video I just got a truck with the same carb and I’m going to check the idle and choke
Can you tell me the best way to run the wire for the electric choke I know it needs to be fused but since it’s a power cable I should run it from the ignition switch cable ?
Thanks
It needs a 12v keyed on source . I find and use one from one of the plugs left over on the passenger fender well
Excellent video. Thank you
Thank you 🙏 brother!
if there is no wire to the choke will it run at all. thanks for the video. showmehow
The choke will never open up and it will stay choked starving the engine of air. Find you a 12 volt source on the passenger fender well and hook it up
Thank you for making such an informative video. Why does my rpm stay the same no matter if the choke is open or closed?
Float or too much fuel pressure?
Awesome video brother
What air cleaner you runnin on your 32/36, you try any interesting ones? Getting ready to upgrade the air cleaner (or buy a new filter if I figure the one I have is the best setup), wanted your thoughts
thanks for the video, big service to a longtime mechanic but carb newbie
I am running the two in tall k&n style filter thats cleanable. I once ran the ramflo, but I gave it to my buddy Jason. The Ramflo allowed air in at all angles including the top.
Hey, I’m stuck, idle mix all dialed in. Problem is it won’t throttle up. 2 carbs I’ve tried and both die when I throttle up. One is new one is used, same issue
Maybe you mean bog down when you give it a lot of gas? And it's happened on two different carburetors so the problem probably is somewhere else. You could have clogged up exhaust or your distributor may have the vacuum advance disconnected or connected in the wrong place