OMC fix jet carburetors part 1 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)
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- čas přidán 21. 02. 2014
- General information, cleaning and carburetor kit application of OMC, Johnson and Evinrude outboards from 1964 to 1970's. Some of this information can apply to OMC, Gale, Johnson and Evinrude motors from mid 1950's to 1960's outboards that have a low speed and high speed needles.
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Your video was great. Helped me do my first ever carburetor clean and tune. It’s running great now. 1974 6hp Johnson.
Barry Blodgett
Awesome!!! It's a great feeling to get these old motors running and back on the water. Cheers buddy!
Nevermind on my carb uninstall question. I saw how you did it in the next video. Nice job. Thanks for posting these vids!
On the 18hp, did you have to remove the rubber boot to get the low speed adjustment knob and rod to slide out the front? Mine would'nt come out that way and it was really difficult to pull it forward just far enough to get the carb out with the rubber boot in still in place. I couldn't see how to remove the boot and I didn't want to chance ripping it by pulling on it.
does that motor have a restrictor plate on it and if so does a 1970 Johnson 6hp have one too thanks
Do you have anything carb related for a 1970 evinrude 40 hp with electric choke, model 40072A? Thanks.
what is the point of the orifice plug? i have the same type of motor as you (1964 18hp 18402) and I'm currently rebuilding the carb. i couldn't get that thing open cause i don't have that special tool…It looks just like a drain plug? anyways. will my carb not run right if i don't get in there and clean that bitch out?
Your motor has a low speed/idle needle that control fuel and air mix at low speed to idling. The fix jet orifice is a precise meter opening that controls fuel and air mixture for mid to high speed running. If you do not have the correct bit/tool to remove the jet, then try and cleaning it with carb cleaner spray.
Please do not try to clean it out with a drill bit or wire. Those brass jets can be damaged and then the fuel/air mixture is altered and then motor will run poorly.
Porque motor everrude tiene buena chspa i no quier entender qué pasa hai
My 1964 Evinrude 28 HP has a high speed adjustment but the needle is rounded off. It had a little tit on it like the needle was broken off. I researched and it actually is made like that. What is the starting point setting on this?
These are going to be the initial settings for the carburetor for starting purposes. Your will later fine tune the settings.
Facing the carburetor you will notice (top) slow speed/idle knob and the (bottom) high speed needle and knob
- Top needle is your slow idle needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 1 1/2 turns. Leave it there for the time being.
- Bottom needle is your high speed needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 1 turn. Leave it there for the time being.
Second part for adjustements once you have it on the boat running.
Setting the high and low needle valves properly:
NOTE: These settings should be done a large test barrel or on the boat in the water/lake!! It best to do these adjustment on the boat in the lake or on commercial size test tank. (You can damage your motor running it wide open in a small test barrel.)
(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out (counter clockwise) the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.
(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn (counter clockwise). Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway
3rd. Have a buddy steer and drive while you make the adjustments. On large motors that is the safe way, especially when the steering and throttle are several feet way!!! :)
@@cajuncookone Thanks got it set in a barrel. The low speed seems intermittent. Getting surging. Im assuming its filthy after sitting 11 yrs. Had flushed the lines and seafoamed the float bowl prior. Maybe throw some in the tank to see if it cleans out. This never idled good anyway so I suspect maybe points and or timing. Seems a lot of unburned fuel as the water barrel got stinky fast
@@L2fish yes, seafoam decarbons the powerhead. You may want to remove your plugs and clean them well with sand paper. Reclean to remove the grit and make sure they are gapped to 0.030 with a feeler gauge. Seafoam will cause the old sludge to cake up on the spark plugs in the beginning, but should not be problem after that.