Here are the best ways to contact JD Larrabee at Edgewright: Email: edgewrightusa@gmail.com Phone: 928-234-8778 Facebook (Mohave Mann): profile.php?...
Good luck with your work! Regarding the slurry dripping down Rob was talking about - perhaps V-grooves routed along the edges of the board mid-height would help to catch it. And then an occasional wipe would take care of it.
Just bought one. This guy is great to deal with. Very friendly. Veteran, loves his country. Couldn't help myself. Bought the unit that goes on the sink to. Would rather a good guy that loves what he does get my $ than most of these faceless corporations.
Happy to say mine is ordered. Didn't even know a thing about convex blades till last night. Look forward to learning to sharpen them, gosh I own enough of them. I spent a lot of time on Google today and am ready to get my feet wet. Thanks as always, great video
how many people do u think have their 50$ kitchen set, never sharpened it, and still have the same set for 10 years, and Rob over here is my hero spending at least an hour on one kitchen knife
It looks like a well made piece of sharpening equipment. As a side note, it might be worthwhile for the viewers to show what maintenance sharpening could / can be on such a system when the goal is just practical sharpness, not blade aesthetics. If someone just wants a knife to carve wood (or whatever) how to use this system to keep the knife sharp, and restore nicks/damage, within a short time, comparable to v-ground edges on flat stones. In any case, nice to see people working together to produce quality equipment. There is enough import copy/junk coming in, putting money back into native economies for quality products is always a good idea.
thanks nice review and i am working on some satin blades and very intrested. just a thought maybe line the sides with masking tape or even painters tape so when the slurry gets much one can renew the tape and then would be no build up
I like it! It's a simple machine, but making something everything that it needs to be, but nothing that it doesn't is more difficult than building something overly complex and expensive. If you are going to do this kind of sharpening on a regular basis, its worth investing into a roll of adhesive-backed sandpaper. It's what auto-body / professional metal finishers use. I've used the "Gator Grit" stuff and have been very happy with it. Oblivious you need a different roll for each grit, so the initial investment is a bit higher, but the price per sq inch is much lower. I also find that it cuts better and lasts longer than the auto-zone/ home depot generic black wet/dry stuff. The Gator Grit is also yellow so it makes it easier to see where it's loading / if you are using the sheet unevenly.
I've made something similar out of three pieces of quarter inch MDF glued together with a mouse pad on top. On the ends of the middle piece of MDF I cut a notch big enough to a bind clip to fit in. This lets me keep the sand paper stationary while on the mouse pad.
@@convex7456 Hi, sorry this has been a while and I did not get a notification. I looked on Amazon for a very firm mousepad until I found one with good reviews. If you have an electronics store near you I would ask there first.
interested in this sharpener , i will email and i would ask and i would like to know the measured thickness of the rubber, i think a pad of rubber under sharpener would keep it more steady
TubieMcTubington I'm just not a fan of trying to form a convex edge on a flat stone or plate. I prefer the way that a compliant surface forms the curve. It's much more consistent. There's no way he rocking motion of your stroke on a hard medium will generate a consistent profile over the entire length of an edge. A leather or rubber substrate, along with tailoring the angle and pressure of your stroke, does a much better job.
Is this still a good system if I've never put a convex edge on a knife (but want to learn)? Would you ever put a convex edge on one of your Sebenza? What are the pros and cons of doing this on an EDC blade?
Patrick Ester Its a great system to learn with -- much more so than a slack belt or hard stones. I do own one Sebenza that I've kept convex, and I sharpened it on this system.
What exactly forms the convex edge? Something that you are doing with your hands, or the give of the rubber and the leather of the honing surfaces? Thank you.
Great question! The answer is yes, and yes. The compliance of the substrates, the pressure of the hands and the angle of attack all combine to form the shape of the convex edge. For me, it’s the most zen-like form of sharpening.
@@TheApostleP 1) Are you twisting the knife as you stroke (to make the convex) or holding a fixed angle? 2) Using the same equipment, how do you keep from convexing every edge (flat grind, hollow grind, scandi)? I'm trying to get started with sharpening, but this question baffles me.
@@samspade2104 I keep a relatively consistent angle with each stroke. You can’t really traverse the length of an edge and change the angle at the same time. Instead, I gradually change the angle of each individual stroke on most knives, when the compliance of the substrate doesn’t provide enough curvature. I do v-bevels on most flat and hollow ground blades, for which I use an Edgepro Professional system.
A question for you: I usually sharpen on water stones, and I pride myself on my precise, even tips. I've given convex sharpening on a soft backing a spin a few times, and every time I've rounded my tip something awful. Is this a trouble you've run into while learning this skill? And if so, do you have any advice to mitigate it?
Matthew Bernier Yes. It's really quite alarming when it happens starting out. I've learned not to elevate the handle much when working the tip, and also to keep the tip leading away from the stroke, to keep the pressure off.
TheApostleP Thanks! Both for the advice, and for the morale boost of hearing you had trouble with it too. Everyone talks about how much easier it is than stones, but I guess whatever you're used to is what's easy. I'll give it a shot with an Opinel that's thickening with use.
Update: Thanks to you, I just applied my first two successful zero convex bevels ever, no tip rounding, no change to edge profile, no unecessary loss of metal. I did my GEC 74, and my Western of Boulder, CO shark knife. 400 grit satin for the side of the blades, 1500 and then a strop for the edge and the lead-up to it. They look amazing and cut amazing. Thanks so much for all the education you put out for free.
Thank you Rob! You were a tremendous part of this dream of mine coming to fruition!
Congrats on the launch buddy, it looks great!
Good luck with your work!
Regarding the slurry dripping down Rob was talking about - perhaps V-grooves routed along the edges of the board mid-height would help to catch it. And then an occasional wipe would take care of it.
Just bought one. This guy is great to deal with. Very friendly. Veteran, loves his country. Couldn't help myself. Bought the unit that goes on the sink to. Would rather a good guy that loves what he does get my $ than most of these faceless corporations.
Thank you for the review Mr. Rob. I greatly appreciation for the product information.
Happy to say mine is ordered. Didn't even know a thing about convex blades till last night. Look forward to learning to sharpen them, gosh I own enough of them. I spent a lot of time on Google today and am ready to get my feet wet. Thanks as always, great video
Because of your video Rob I made a purchase of one of JD's standard and can't wait for it to arrive!
how many people do u think have their 50$ kitchen set, never sharpened it, and still have the same set for 10 years, and Rob over here is my hero spending at least an hour on one kitchen knife
It looks like a well made piece of sharpening equipment. As a side note, it might be worthwhile for the viewers to show what maintenance sharpening could / can be on such a system when the goal is just practical sharpness, not blade aesthetics.
If someone just wants a knife to carve wood (or whatever) how to use this system to keep the knife sharp, and restore nicks/damage, within a short time, comparable to v-ground edges on flat stones.
In any case, nice to see people working together to produce quality equipment. There is enough import copy/junk coming in, putting money back into native economies for quality products is always a good idea.
Thank you so very much...you'll know that I am taking about. God bless you.
Nice camp councilor short shorts there rob lol funnies aside love your videos man
I will definitely be purchasing 1 or 2 units in the morning.
thanks nice review and i am working on some satin blades and very intrested. just a thought maybe line the sides with masking tape or even painters tape so when the slurry gets much one can renew the tape and then would be no build up
I'd love to see a video showing how you maintain and recondition your strops.
I like it! It's a simple machine, but making something everything that it needs to be, but nothing that it doesn't is more difficult than building something overly complex and expensive.
If you are going to do this kind of sharpening on a regular basis, its worth investing into a roll of adhesive-backed sandpaper. It's what auto-body / professional metal finishers use. I've used the "Gator Grit" stuff and have been very happy with it. Oblivious you need a different roll for each grit, so the initial investment is a bit higher, but the price per sq inch is much lower. I also find that it cuts better and lasts longer than the auto-zone/ home depot generic black wet/dry stuff. The Gator Grit is also yellow so it makes it easier to see where it's loading / if you are using the sheet unevenly.
Nice product. Simple and effective. I'll bet that could also be used for refinishing certain types of hand rubbed satin.
Chris Allison Absolutely.
nice job brother
the finger nail tip is great for feeling a micro chip
Nice. Thank you
thats scary sharp
I've made something similar out of three pieces of quarter inch MDF glued together with a mouse pad on top. On the ends of the middle piece of MDF I cut a notch big enough to a bind clip to fit in. This lets me keep the sand paper stationary while on the mouse pad.
Lenny where do u find the old school mousepads that have enough give to them??
@@convex7456 Hi, sorry this has been a while and I did not get a notification. I looked on Amazon for a very firm mousepad until I found one with good reviews. If you have an electronics store near you I would ask there first.
Where can I get in touch twitch Mohave man to buy one of his systems? The contact information provided dos not produce a response.
Just put a small channel around the edge to catch any slurry. Could even put some rubber in there or something
interested in this sharpener , i will email and i would ask and i would like to know the measured thickness of the rubber, i think a pad of rubber under sharpener would keep it more steady
What is the maximum grit for sharpening a bushcraft knife?
Hi Rob. Maybe a dumb question, but why sandpaper instead of say, a ceramic stone or diamond plate? Love the videos, BTW!
TubieMcTubington I'm just not a fan of trying to form a convex edge on a flat stone or plate. I prefer the way that a compliant surface forms the curve. It's much more consistent. There's no way he rocking motion of your stroke on a hard medium will generate a consistent profile over the entire length of an edge. A leather or rubber substrate, along with tailoring the angle and pressure of your stroke, does a much better job.
You just need to spend twenty years doing it like Murray Carter and then you can tell everyone how easy it is with flat stones.
Cliff Stamp ... Although I did have to resharpen my brand new Murray Carter Neck Knife 😱😜
Is this for convex edge knives only ?
Is this still a good system if I've never put a convex edge on a knife (but want to learn)? Would you ever put a convex edge on one of your Sebenza? What are the pros and cons of doing this on an EDC blade?
Patrick Ester Its a great system to learn with -- much more so than a slack belt or hard stones. I do own one Sebenza that I've kept convex, and I sharpened it on this system.
Dou you prefer this 'freehand' kind of sharpening or the more easily controlled Edge-Pro method.?
paul greenwood For v-grinds, a fixtured system Is far more precise, and I prefer it. But I enjoy freehand convex sharpening much more.
I thought you were enjoying the Edge-Wright system a bit too much...Haha! Thanks for responding Rob.
What exactly forms the convex edge? Something that you are doing with your hands, or the give of the rubber and the leather of the honing surfaces? Thank you.
Great question! The answer is yes, and yes. The compliance of the substrates, the pressure of the hands and the angle of attack all combine to form the shape of the convex edge. For me, it’s the most zen-like form of sharpening.
@@TheApostleP 1) Are you twisting the knife as you stroke (to make the convex) or holding a fixed angle? 2) Using the same equipment, how do you keep from convexing every edge (flat grind, hollow grind, scandi)? I'm trying to get started with sharpening, but this question baffles me.
@@samspade2104 I keep a relatively consistent angle with each stroke. You can’t really traverse the length of an edge and change the angle at the same time. Instead, I gradually change the angle of each individual stroke on most knives, when the compliance of the substrate doesn’t provide enough curvature.
I do v-bevels on most flat and hollow ground blades, for which I use an Edgepro Professional system.
A question for you: I usually sharpen on water stones, and I pride myself on my precise, even tips. I've given convex sharpening on a soft backing a spin a few times, and every time I've rounded my tip something awful. Is this a trouble you've run into while learning this skill? And if so, do you have any advice to mitigate it?
Matthew Bernier Yes. It's really quite alarming when it happens starting out. I've learned not to elevate the handle much when working the tip, and also to keep the tip leading away from the stroke, to keep the pressure off.
TheApostleP Thanks! Both for the advice, and for the morale boost of hearing you had trouble with it too. Everyone talks about how much easier it is than stones, but I guess whatever you're used to is what's easy. I'll give it a shot with an Opinel that's thickening with use.
Update: Thanks to you, I just applied my first two successful zero convex bevels ever, no tip rounding, no change to edge profile, no unecessary loss of metal. I did my GEC 74, and my Western of Boulder, CO shark knife. 400 grit satin for the side of the blades, 1500 and then a strop for the edge and the lead-up to it.
They look amazing and cut amazing.
Thanks so much for all the education you put out for free.
Rob, how do I contact you? I really would like to talk to you...its important to me.
ive sharpened with windex for years, but you don't wanna use it longer then two hours other wise is makes ya sick to the stomach.
maybe good tape around sides for now
like you are do a lot of nerves and I believe in 2 peace set would work better so that the slurry did not work its way into the strap
that was supposed to say I do a lot of knives
hello
Why don't you just use a whetstone? Its quite easy.
Because sandpaper is "cheaper" and after using it for so long they lost the point and then this sort of thing came along.
Lmao :D Really
Oh no way! This generic system endorsed by you was "invented" by him? Whoopee