Your review is spot on. I wish you could have identified the power gates and did a current test. I have 2 of these units just recently purchased. one of them will not output more than 3 amps on a 28 volt setting inputting from a 12 volt 21 amp supply. The other one instantly melted the solder trace from the T3 transistor to the R13 current sensor as soon as it was connected to the battery. I Because i did not see any certification markings anywhere on the device, i would not recommend this item for sale to the general end user. If the manufacturing company would put just a little bit revisions into this unit they would have a really competitive product. Just my opinion...
This is the first review I've read that explains this controller correctly. This enables me to use one 12v solar panel to charge the battery from my electric trike. When I travel I pull the battery our of my trike and use it in my RV to run the fridge and other devices. The solar panel is on the top of my RV.
Thank you so much, glad I found this one after watching a couple of others this made it much clearer what was going on with this unit. I have things configured correctly now and my 2 20 volt panels are in parallel charging a 24 volt battery Bank.
It's possible to combine this with step down buck converter for 12v. People say you should cut the fan cover and flip the fan to make it more quiet. Many people also say that the fan adjustment is working on some of them, but not for others.
I slowly begin to understand what these units do and what to use it for. I own a big UPS Server Backup Power Rack wit 8 old 12v-7A LA batteries arranged to be 48v (84Wh), i can replace them with a 13S Li-Ion Pack + BMS and charge it correctly with a 100-200 Watt 12v-24v Solar Panel. This way you can charge and discharge a 13S battery to run the 1600 Watt Inverter to use 220v stuff for a longer time if needed. The output current is rated (Fuse) at 100 amps, so BMS and wires have to be thick.
I use mpt7210a on my 9.6kWh power wall. scontent.fcmb4-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/20626264_10155817188596833_7023609640699453535_o.jpg?oh=c25e030c547564088f677c45bd43c836&oe=5A2B8B79
My application is to charge a 48V battery bank using a solar panel (or several solar panels in parallel), that have a Vmpp of about 39V and an Impp of about 9.25A. This solar charge controller (scc) is also useful for a golf cart in which you put a single panel on the roof of the cart and charge the batteries. Since golf is normally played on sunny days and there is a lot of waiting, a solar golf setup would be beneficial, possibly allowing you to slightly undersize your battery bank and reduce significant weight. I also tested this with a single 210W panel in the winter (low angle) non optimal sun and saw a peak reported output of 160 watts but with an average of only about 105 watts (half power). Overall I like this unit however I do have a few gripes... 1. It seems to go to 0 watts output occasionally and I am not sure why. It happens both when it is cloudy but occasionally when it is sunny too. Perhaps when the light transitions abruptly it gets "confused" and needs time to "think" of what to do next. 2. The screws for attaching the bare wires are down deep inside the case. This does NOT allow probes from a multitester to get down in there from the top (at least mine don't). It would have been nicer if they put those screws much shallower to allow it. 3. The red color on the display is hard to see outdoors on a bright day. 4. The menu navigation requires some oddball keypresses. Why didn't they just make it simple and cycle thru all the icons and have an exit button when you want to get out of the menu? 5. The current limiting sorta kinda works but not 100%. If (for example) you have a solar panel and voltage combination that can output 5A max to the battery and you set it for 1A max, it will actually go a bit past 1A so it might be better if you really want a hard limit of 1A, to set it to even less, such as 0.75A, to give it more time to react and adjust the output current. 6. It would be nice if there was a fan speed button so it can be adjusted without having to go thru the menu system.
For people that want to use this to charge a 12V battery, it is not really designed for that. However, suppose you had one large 12V battery you wanted to charge with this controller. Why not just add 3 small cheap 12Ah "scooter" batteries to make it a 48V system, but put a load on the 36V such as a 36V input inverter to "burn off" the extra charge the batteries cannot handle? Perhaps run a box fan or some other reasonable load from the 36V setup. When there is no solar (like at night), you could turn off the load on the small 36V subbank of batteries but continue to use the load on the large 12V battery (in moderation of course). Personally, I much prefer a matched set of large 12V batteries making it 48V and I run a 1600W max sine wave output inverter and I use this solar charge controller set at 40.0V Vmpp and 54V maximum charge voltage. It seems to work fairly well.
Will this charge 'under', the 100amp? I have four 18v 2.5amp panels on the way and was wondering if i wire then in series will they be 'seen', by this?
I have one, you cannot put in more than 10A before they’ll puke their tracks off... I accidentally put 70 OCV (open circuit voltage)... the tracks on solar input blew everywhere rendering it inoperable... it can do up to 15A if your supply can provide it... these can only handle 60V in max. While they can handle up to 60v in, you can set it to whatever output you desire... 100A is too excessive for these little guys... you’d essentially make a bomb unintentionally (it’ll just blow arcs everywhere)... but if you’re looking to charge a 100AH battery, this can do it, it’ll be slow though.
It was looking like a good deal to charge my 48v pack from my two 100w solar panels, but manually having to start it is a deal breaker. I wan the thing to start charging the moment the sunlight is bright enough to start generating power.
Manual: "Long-term use, it is recommended to save in the ON state to set parameters to 00 positions, so that you can work automatically after the sun rises."
You can swap displays between the same units... same as the boards, they’ll keep the information you last saved on it when you swap... I’ve had a few of these on hand for parts as majority of said parts aren’t available.
I have 2 solars on the roof of my motorhome Kyocera 2x120W KC 120-1 Details Maximum Power 120 W Maximum Power Voltage 16.9 V Maximum Power Current 7.1 A Open Circuit Voltage 21.5 V Short Circuit Current 7.45 A and the MPPT controller that loads two batteries from these two panels in series to give a 12V output. Can I use this controller to recharge these batteries. What voltage should I set for charging?
You can use it, just make sure your voltage doesn’t exceed the units’ max input of 60v OCV, they can handle up to 15A, but is only capable of being set to 10A as the name tag states.... charging voltage, I wouldn’t recommend going higher than 12.8 if in parallel... the unfortunate thing about these units, they don’t like charging batteries under 24v, so you might have to consider paying for the Epever MPPT since those can be capable of charging 12v batteries.
You can, but make sure you don’t get any sort of “shade” on your panel... these little “mppts” HATE fluctuations in power input, so I’d recommend at least 2 in parallel.
@@BeezyKing99 My question was 2 years ago! You know, the time when we weren't locked up underground. Meantime I have 2x18volt 100Watt panels on my solar trike. It works. Could be better. I get 30km extra range out of it on a good day. So I still need to charge at camp sites or hotels. Ideally I wouldn't need wall charging for say 80km daily distance.
Abel Jerson to much panel. it is only a 10 amp controller. it may work . I'd watch the current. it don't start up the next day. I'd get a epever tracer A 10 amp. or larger. for a little more money. this works more like a bench top power supply/ universal battery charger. than a actual charge controller. you will have to restart it every day!
Thanos, Or if you put in buck converters downstream of the 7210A. Mine is keeping a 12v string happy. The string is soon to be a 24v string so the buck converters can go away.
gravelydon if you adjust the fan speed to a lower setting, screen readings become irrational. This is a know big with these units: czcams.com/video/_219JrlbNxg/video.html
Thanos, Maybe I got a good one as mine does not have that problem. Mine is set with the fan at about 3/4 of the setting available. A second one arrived Monday but haven't gotten it hooked up yet. It runs at 8-22 volts in and 28.80 max volts out at up to 9.5 amps.
You’ll essentially cook your battery... this unit is not a buck/boost converter... so if you want to drop it down to 24v.. you’ll need a buck converter as the guy prior to me said.
So, if I understand correctly - you are saying I can charge my 48v, 17.5Ah Li-ion ebike battery with this device and a 20watt solar panel? If so, that's exactly what I need for long distance ebike touring. Please advise. Can I then perhaps connect this unit via a converter to charge USB items, i.e., phone, etc. Please advise. Thanks.
20W is nothing but it would work. Problem is that your battery has roughly 840Wh which means that nominally it would charge it in about 42 hours. In real life this module has around 70% efficiency, sun is not always shining on the same side of the globe and your panel won't able to put out constant 20W. That said if you managed to top it up using this setup within a week would by great achievement :) You'd be better off topping your powerbank or small devices directly with solar panel, which probably has higher efficiency usb output.
I have several of these. They would be accurately described as "programmable charge pumps" which is how I use them to charge LiFePO4 packs.
Your review is spot on. I wish you could have identified the power gates and did a current test.
I have 2 of these units just recently purchased. one of them will not output more than 3 amps on a 28 volt setting inputting from a 12 volt 21 amp supply. The other one instantly melted the solder trace from the T3 transistor to the R13 current sensor as soon as it was connected to the battery.
I Because i did not see any certification markings anywhere on the device, i would not recommend this item for sale to the general end user. If the manufacturing company would put just a little bit revisions into this unit they would have a really competitive product. Just my opinion...
This is the first review I've read that explains this controller correctly. This enables me to use one 12v solar panel to charge the battery from my electric trike. When I travel I pull the battery our of my trike and use it in my RV to run the fridge and other devices. The solar panel is on the top of my RV.
You wont get much power from a single 12V solar panel.
How many watts of your 12V solar panel on RV roof? Thanks.
What 12 volt wattage solar panel is recommended for using this?
Thank you so much, glad I found this one after watching a couple of others this made it much clearer what was going on with this unit. I have things configured correctly now and my 2 20 volt panels are in parallel charging a 24 volt battery Bank.
It's possible to combine this with step down buck converter for 12v. People say you should cut the fan cover and flip the fan to make it more quiet. Many people also say that the fan adjustment is working on some of them, but not for others.
thanks for the video
I slowly begin to understand what these units do and what to use it for. I own a big UPS Server Backup Power Rack wit 8 old 12v-7A LA batteries arranged to be 48v (84Wh), i can replace them with a 13S Li-Ion Pack + BMS and charge it correctly with a 100-200 Watt 12v-24v Solar Panel. This way you can charge and discharge a 13S battery to run the 1600 Watt Inverter to use 220v stuff for a longer time if needed. The output current is rated (Fuse) at 100 amps, so BMS and wires have to be thick.
Yes , you are right.. it is only usable if battery voltage is higher then solarpanel volatage.. otherwise it orvercharges the battery..
Germo Lepp it is a boost converter.
This is a good controller especially for lithium-ion
Hi Thiwanka, I absolutely agree. Since you can set the output voltage and it seems to be accurate. Thanks for watching!
I use mpt7210a on my 9.6kWh power wall. scontent.fcmb4-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/20626264_10155817188596833_7023609640699453535_o.jpg?oh=c25e030c547564088f677c45bd43c836&oe=5A2B8B79
What are those flat batteries you're using?
They look like batteries out of a nissan leaf!
My application is to charge a 48V battery bank using a solar panel (or several solar panels in parallel), that have a Vmpp of about 39V and an Impp of about 9.25A. This solar charge controller (scc) is also useful for a golf cart in which you put a single panel on the roof of the cart and charge the batteries. Since golf is normally played on sunny days and there is a lot of waiting, a solar golf setup would be beneficial, possibly allowing you to slightly undersize your battery bank and reduce significant weight.
I also tested this with a single 210W panel in the winter (low angle) non optimal sun and saw a peak reported output of 160 watts but with an average of only about 105 watts (half power).
Overall I like this unit however I do have a few gripes...
1. It seems to go to 0 watts output occasionally and I am not sure why. It happens both when it is cloudy but occasionally when it is sunny too. Perhaps when the light transitions abruptly it gets "confused" and needs time to "think" of what to do next.
2. The screws for attaching the bare wires are down deep inside the case. This does NOT allow probes from a multitester to get down in there from the top (at least mine don't). It would have been nicer if they put those screws much shallower to allow it.
3. The red color on the display is hard to see outdoors on a bright day.
4. The menu navigation requires some oddball keypresses. Why didn't they just make it simple and cycle thru all the icons and have an exit button when you want to get out of the menu?
5. The current limiting sorta kinda works but not 100%. If (for example) you have a solar panel and voltage combination that can output 5A max to the battery and you set it for 1A max, it will actually go a bit past 1A so it might be better if you really want a hard limit of 1A, to set it to even less, such as 0.75A, to give it more time to react and adjust the output current.
6. It would be nice if there was a fan speed button so it can be adjusted without having to go thru the menu system.
Ditto, same use and even tested mine in winter on my cart with similiar results. I just purchased a different model for comparison.
Great, just what i need. to charge my 52ah 60V 6700w scooter. 3 of them in combination with 3x 300wp solarpanels schould do the job.
You can limit the power in from your solar pannel to 12v
고맙습니다~~~!!!!
---> thank you very much~~~!!!!
For people that want to use this to charge a 12V battery, it is not really designed for that. However, suppose you had one large 12V battery you wanted to charge with this controller. Why not just add 3 small cheap 12Ah "scooter" batteries to make it a 48V system, but put a load on the 36V such as a 36V input inverter to "burn off" the extra charge the batteries cannot handle? Perhaps run a box fan or some other reasonable load from the 36V setup.
When there is no solar (like at night), you could turn off the load on the small 36V subbank of batteries but continue to use the load on the large 12V battery (in moderation of course).
Personally, I much prefer a matched set of large 12V batteries making it 48V and I run a 1600W max sine wave output inverter and I use this solar charge controller set at 40.0V Vmpp and 54V maximum charge voltage. It seems to work fairly well.
What happened to your window? Guano?Good work.
@GreenCave - at 1:39, I think you mean the minimum voltage of the batteries, not maximum.
Will this charge 'under', the 100amp? I have four 18v 2.5amp panels on the way and was wondering if i wire then in series will they be 'seen', by this?
I have one, you cannot put in more than 10A before they’ll puke their tracks off... I accidentally put 70 OCV (open circuit voltage)... the tracks on solar input blew everywhere rendering it inoperable... it can do up to 15A if your supply can provide it... these can only handle 60V in max. While they can handle up to 60v in, you can set it to whatever output you desire... 100A is too excessive for these little guys... you’d essentially make a bomb unintentionally (it’ll just blow arcs everywhere)... but if you’re looking to charge a 100AH battery, this can do it, it’ll be slow though.
It was looking like a good deal to charge my 48v pack from my two 100w solar panels, but manually having to start it is a deal breaker. I wan the thing to start charging the moment the sunlight is bright enough to start generating power.
Manual: "Long-term use, it is recommended to save in the ON state to set parameters to 00
positions, so that you can work automatically after the sun rises."
Can you exchange the LCD screen in case its broken? Or do you need to replace the whole controller?
You can swap displays between the same units... same as the boards, they’ll keep the information you last saved on it when you swap... I’ve had a few of these on hand for parts as majority of said parts aren’t available.
Hola, mpt 7210 sirve para cargar una batería de litio de 36v 12,8Ah con una placa solar de 12/24V de 160W??? muchas gracias
I have 2 solars on the roof of my motorhome
Kyocera 2x120W
KC 120-1
Details Maximum Power 120 W
Maximum Power Voltage 16.9 V
Maximum Power Current 7.1 A
Open Circuit Voltage 21.5 V
Short Circuit Current 7.45 A
and the MPPT controller that loads two batteries from these two panels in series to give a 12V output. Can I use this controller to recharge these batteries. What voltage should I set for charging?
You can use it, just make sure your voltage doesn’t exceed the units’ max input of 60v OCV, they can handle up to 15A, but is only capable of being set to 10A as the name tag states.... charging voltage, I wouldn’t recommend going higher than 12.8 if in parallel... the unfortunate thing about these units, they don’t like charging batteries under 24v, so you might have to consider paying for the Epever MPPT since those can be capable of charging 12v batteries.
Can I charge a 36V battery with one 18V solat panel?
Yes
You can, but make sure you don’t get any sort of “shade” on your panel... these little “mppts” HATE fluctuations in power input, so I’d recommend at least 2 in parallel.
@@BeezyKing99 My question was 2 years ago! You know, the time when we weren't locked up underground. Meantime I have 2x18volt 100Watt panels on my solar trike. It works. Could be better. I get 30km extra range out of it on a good day. So I still need to charge at camp sites or hotels. Ideally I wouldn't need wall charging for say 80km daily distance.
48v battery with one 12v 325w solar panel
Hello is it possible to connect 24v 320w solar panel with this charge controller
Abel Jerson to much panel. it is only a 10 amp controller. it may work . I'd watch the current. it don't start up the next day. I'd get a epever tracer A 10 amp. or larger. for a little more money. this works more like a bench top power supply/ universal battery charger. than a actual charge controller. you will have to restart it every day!
See Vuaeco's video on this. He shows a way to have it come on automatically when it restarts.
Only if your batteries are of a higher voltage.
Thanos, Or if you put in buck converters downstream of the 7210A. Mine is keeping a 12v string happy. The string is soon to be a 24v string so the buck converters can go away.
Is this boost or buck converter
Does it have to be that noisy? Are other charge controllers that noisy?
Stephen Hadik, You can adjust the fan speed. Most other controllers do not make that kind of noise.
gravelydon if you adjust the fan speed to a lower setting, screen readings become irrational. This is a know big with these units: czcams.com/video/_219JrlbNxg/video.html
Thanos, Maybe I got a good one as mine does not have that problem. Mine is set with the fan at about 3/4 of the setting available. A second one arrived Monday but haven't gotten it hooked up yet. It runs at 8-22 volts in and 28.80 max volts out at up to 9.5 amps.
Does this controller have a low voltage cutoff (from the solar panel) and a high voltage cutoff (from the battery)?
Elwood Anderson it has a low voltage cut off of around 11V. Higher voltage it can output is around 90V (72V in theory)
It becomes inoperable once it drops below 10.5v... the voltage cutoff is set via the battery charging parameters.
Can I use a 36v solar panel with a 24v battery pack with this mppt controller?
no, u need a buck converter
You’ll essentially cook your battery... this unit is not a buck/boost converter... so if you want to drop it down to 24v.. you’ll need a buck converter as the guy prior to me said.
So, if I understand correctly - you are saying I can charge my 48v, 17.5Ah Li-ion ebike battery with this device and a 20watt solar panel? If so, that's exactly what I need for long distance ebike touring. Please advise. Can I then perhaps connect this unit via a converter to charge USB items, i.e., phone, etc. Please advise. Thanks.
20W is nothing but it would work. Problem is that your battery has roughly 840Wh which means that nominally it would charge it in about 42 hours. In real life this module has around 70% efficiency, sun is not always shining on the same side of the globe and your panel won't able to put out constant 20W. That said if you managed to top it up using this setup within a week would by great achievement :) You'd be better off topping your powerbank or small devices directly with solar panel, which probably has higher efficiency usb output.
Its only a pwm with caps added
Dylan Desmond it does MPPT just fine, but takes a while to recover if there’s too much of a voltage drop at the input