Pro Climber Hung Ying Lee Coaches Me For a Day! | 造訪台灣攀岩國手李虹瑩！
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- čas přidán 10. 12. 2023
- Check out the collab I did with 日光山石: • 日光山石 | EP.14 | 大咖來訪，Ge...
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The part about Americans grading boulder problems V9-V12 and Taiwanese being hesitant to grade anything beyond V8-V9 makes so much sense!!😅😅
jazz and chinese climbing commentary is unexpectedly quite cozy and homey
I went to this gym when I was in Taiwan. It was awesome. In US gyms I climb “V8/9”. Even in European gyms I max around “V7/8”. In this Taiwanese gym I got my ass kicked by V5’s lol. No quotation marks around their grades. Amazing and humbling afternoon.
Great to see her featured! She placed well at the asian games this year, so to still be at the top level is really impressive. I'll be sure to check it out next time I'm home ~
Yes, it's incredible, but it will be a sad day when she eventually retires.
Oh yes, classic V3 lâché.
Hehe, jokes aside, I could watch ten videos of this format with this gentle woman.
Great addition!
V2 in Taiwan, V5 in America
It looks about a grade harder, not 3 grades ;-)
@@avokedesigns2109 it can be 3 grades apart. I know some Taiwan V4 climbers flashes V7s here. In terms of physical strength/power, the requirement is definitely higher here. But in terms of technical/body tension Asia gym has higher standard
Probably depends upon the gym. But they definitely look more difficult, just not 3 grades based upon Geek’s (Jason) finger positions etc. on the V3. That same climb would definitely not be a V6 at my gym. Not even a V5.
@@avokedesigns2109 I mean you are kinda right there. But why people experiencing "3 grades difference" is that the gym problems style are different. The box of the problems are also different. Imagine you are 6ft tall trying to do 5'2" climb. Limited feet option is a factor too. There are climbs can look like a V0 but can be legit V6 under those conditions. Geek has a lot of power but he lacks flexibility and has been climbing too stiff which ends up sucking up more energy. You should go to Japan once, it's just different there. If you go to Austin gym in Texas you would say 6 grades difference lol
Very true.
So glad to see different professional climbers and climbing cultures featured! Well done, Geek Climber!
Thank you!
Agreed!
Love a climbing video in chinese! Also "Use your hips" vs "屁股用力点“ hits different! I had a good chuckle there.
This is my favourite gym!! The routes are thought provoking, I learnt new things every time when I visit this gym. Also Hung Ying is an amazing pro climber! Nice collaboration!
Great video and cool change up. Epic coaching and challenging sets. 😮
Wow! Routes are so beautiful and different! Route setters awesome work! Even in v1-v3 it so cool❤
Grading in Taiwanese gyms are no joke. I climbed in 3 bouldering gyms in Taipei (including this one) and ALL OF THEM are solidly 2 grades sandbagged compared to American gyms. Even compared to Japanese gyms, they're about a grade stiffer. Grading difficulty is on par with the B-pump gyms in Japan which are notorious for being stupidly sandbagged
That explains why I feel so frustrated when I just started climbing lol (I'm a rookie Taiwanese climber). I do feel like we start to introduce all kinds of weird and interesting movements in V2-V3s.
I went to UK this autumn and sense the huge different as well (I'm from Taiwan). Looks to me that dynamic moves will only be introduced around V4-5 in EU but in Taiwan it starts from V2-3. It's fun even it's a bit frustrated sometimes. And the slab here can be really scary and crazy as well.
I went to this T-Up outlet during summer this year and the grades are quite sandbagged to me. Routes for even lower gradings like v2-v3 arent very straight forward too. It is giving me the vides of a B-pump gym
Thank you all for giving me the confidence to blame the route setters instead of myself haha
i mean gadings are harder in no matter TW, JP or HK
That yellow V3 you worked out looked so cool and creative. I hope I can convince a route setter at my gym to do it.
Enjoyed the video a lot, thanks! 🙃
The sets in TW look really fun!
I know chinese and it's very interesting to hear the two of you talk about climbing technical terms in the language, really cool 😄
第一次聽你講中文太有趣了吧XD
台灣粉絲報到~~ 第一次聽到Geek Climber說中文好親切🙂🙂🙂
This looks super interesting. The route setting surprisingly reminds me a bit of my gym. Especially on slab you did. Also kind of cool to listen to you speaking more in your native language and getting comfortable lol. Hung Ying Lee seems like she was a fun coach to work with.
Yes, no way I am finishing that slab if she weren't coach me 😆.
that no-tex foodhold in a V2 got me 😂
This video shows exactly why people keep saying "that's a v2 in my gym". V2-3 are tough in a lot of gyms outside of USA
the commercial gym gradeflation is real. I think in an attempt to set more varied beginner/intermediate routes for newer/casual climbers they’ve spread the v0-v4 range over more levels
I've seen V7s in San francisco that were easier than V0s in Fontainebleau lol.
Nice video!
the yellow V3 is really cool! also that swinging V3 would tear up my skin. definitely easier if you have lower BMI.
I think that's true of all climbing
I also went back to taiwan for the holidays, and realised that it was so much harder to climb in taiwan not just because of the difficulty difference, but also the humidity; it made me sweat a lot more and my skin was gone after like an hour. Mad respect to taiwanese climbers!
Perfect chill climbing video. When do you think you'll climb V7 again, or are you not pushing the grade lately?
Continue your front lever progress man
Nice video. Nice music
Nice!
歡迎geek climber來台灣攀岩啊！
期待下次再回去攀岩！
Are you back working on the planche now that you've improved your bent arm strength from the handstand press?
If you are still here come to 新竹紅石 or the one in 士林 I really wanna join!
your english got a lot better
🗽 Grading.... it's same in Austria in my gym. We grade everything above 7b (V7) as a 7b+ (V8). 👍
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在攀岩的大頻道裡看到熟悉的岩館!感覺好奇妙
bruh, that V2 slab looking like V4-5 over here in the Netherlands 😂
我第一次聽說李虹瑩，是從我住日本的親戚那邊，真的是很厲害。
come back!!
Hey Geek Climber, I just watched your video and I must say that it was really informative and well-made.
I was wondering if I could help you edit your videos and repurpose your long videos into highly engaging shorts? I can also make high CTR thumbnails for your channel
17:45 "you seem tired on that v3. lets climb this soft v6 instead" that better be a soft ass v6
yo was that really a V2...
crazy how the v2 slab is taiwan is like a v6 in my gym
Next stop Europe. Make it a full blown meta-analysis!
i spot one of the routes I climbed back in september! (v4 green next to the 2nd v2 yellow) when did you film this?
This was exactly filmed back in September!
when is the next learning calisthenics skill vid
US V grade much softer than TW i guess?
Asia in general has much stiffer grading, across the board compared to mega-gym grading in the US
From what I've seen, that definitely seems to be the case. I think a big part of that is more complicated/coordinated route setting, though. Most of the gyms I've been to here in the US have relatively simple setting with chest-to-wall positions 95% of the time, and are more specific to physical strength than coordinated movements. Because of that, I'd imagine (as Geek Climber seems to have found) that the broader range of styles is very humbling.
I first started climbing in Taiwan at this gym actually! I finished one V4 route (mainly did V3's) after about 1 year into climbing. I moved back to the states and I send V5-6's. So it's probably about 2+ grades harder in Taiwan.
It’s so hard lol, I boulder v4 in the US and frequently failed v1s in Taiwan.
Must be! That slab looked like a V4 in my UK gym! Looks humbling haha.
try learning one arm hand stand
No waaay, you came to Taiwan??!
哇居然看到李虹瑩，這間看起來是萬華原岩
對，是萬華原岩
哇靠，你會說中文!
我在学校学中文，所以如果有更多视频在中文，我将不胜感激! 很棒的视频！
（我中文说得不好，对不起）
之後還會有一個中文的影片!
汉语的习惯通常是“中文（的）视频”，而不是“视频In中文”
谢谢！@@vincent4254
V1 in Japan v5 in America 😂
哇 来大陆哪个馆爬啦
us v5 = eu v4 = Taiwan v3 = hong kong v2 = japan v0
First
she look like shes on 9 cups of coffee
More calisthenics please
ZAMN