How To: Nock Tuning "A to Z"
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- čas přidán 13. 06. 2020
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I appreciate that you gave a detailed explanation of WHY nock tuning makes a difference and not just HOW to nock tune. The other guys on CZcams don’t.
Dude, hands down great video. Easy to understand, concise and informative. Can't thank you enough., for improving the knowledge for everyone myself included. Goes to show that there's always room for improvement and more to learn no matter how long you've been in a sport.
One of the best explanations on how to nock tune> didn't over complicate it kept it to the point. Thank you so much.
Like that you mention to have fun, first and foremost it is meant to be something that we do to enjoy the time spent outdoors 😉
Thanks man, I'm fairly new to archery and you and a couple of other channels have been hugely helpful (inside out precision, and for recurve, Jake kaminski).
Much appreciated.
Exactly the simple “don’t panic” video I needed after my first attempt knock tuning tonight. Thank you.
And in an hour and a half all 6 are knock tuned!! 🤘🏼🤘🏼
I Fletch my Arrows with, LIGHT Colored ( Lime green, White, Orange or, Pink, vanes ) Shield or, Parabolic cut 2.6" to 3" x .500 Tall, Vanes, 3* Helical , then, "Nock Tune", THRU Paper, the Fletched Arrows at, 10-12 Yards and Re-mark, the NEW, Top "Cock" Vane with, a small ^ up Arrow ^ in 2 places,. DONE and, my average sized B-H's,..
Fly like, Bullets ( Flat / Fast ) with, Lighter Arrows ( 390 - 440 Grains ) and 7% to 10 %, FOC !
Another super helpful video... thanks so much! Tomorrow I start nock tuning my arrow build. You have a great way of explaining things!
Remember, this isn't meant to be done with aluminum, it is not the same construction process. Aluminum arrows are made of the same aluminum from end to end and therefore react the same. The reason you're doing nock tuning with carbon arrows is to get them all reacting the same, you're not tuning the arrows to the bow, you're not tuning the bow to the arrows, you're tuning the arrows to your other arrows. This way you can toss the vanes/feathers on the shafts and try to adjust to get bullet holes.
Wish I lived closer to this guys shop
Good video and advice,,,you hit on alot of key issues. I've been into archery for 41 years, helped alot of people out with their set up. Easy to tune a bow to shoot bullet holes through paper,,,,,harder to teach people proper stance and not to put a death grip on the bow.
One of the best, simplest and practically effective videos on the subject I've ever seen. Great work. Allegedly, the Easton axis 4mm match grade are made in a different process similar to aluminum with no seem. Can you or anyone else verify this...???
brilliant and very helpful, thanks Nate!
Quality content and great explanations! Well done
Fantastic stuff. Thank you for making what little free time I had dissapear because I have to do all this crap now. Seriously though, thank you!
I quit paper tuning about 25 years ago because if I took a big step forward or backward the knock tears would change so I never knew which was the right tear. I just chalked it up to the arrow oscillation out of the bow & gave up. I don't know how guys get this to work & suspect many don't.
I got a bow press 2 years ago and spent a entire winter learning paper tuning in garage. Once my new strings settled and after chasing it around all over...I learned how my grip was the culprit more than anything!! It was a good learning process. Where are you located? Franklin County(Shippensburg) here!!! Love your vids!
Nice detective work! Grip plays a HUGE part. More than most folks give credit. I'm in Clearfield County.
@@averagejackarchery I should say repeatability of grip/release. I upgraded to a hamskea and spot hogg XL...Tomorrow my brother gets a new for him bare bow. So I will be trying to figure out how to time the QAD I originally had problems with on mine. Take Care!!!
Great info and great advice - don't over stress yourself if you're not getting bullet holes right away! :-)
"...and by the fun part, I mean the monotonous time consuming one", AMEN! This is laborious. I'm trying for the first time and I am chasing bad.
I’m confused about your 90 degree rotation…. After 4 turns your back at your starting point.. what am I missing?
Awesome video!
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for taking time to make video, but I’m kind of confused? On the 1st arrow you knock tuned. You shot 5 times, rotating 90 degrees at a time. On the 5th shot it tore correctly, wouldn’t that be same position as the first shot you took and original position? Just looking for clarification, I’m new to this.
Man there is alot of tuning in archery :p im starting to learn now, and it's quite alot.
I’ve nock tuned hundreds of arrows and never had tears this bad unless the rest is off. Most arrows will shoot ok. So I pick an arrow and tune the bow/rest/arrow to a bullet hole and then check the other arrows. You’ll find assuming your form is decent that your form is gonna drive tears far more than the minor spine differences. If you’re talking shooting 70+ yards at spots buy high spec target arrows. For 50 yard shots at deer nock tuning is a fun but minimally affective tool. Of course shoot all your arrows because there may be one that just doesn’t behave regardless what you do.
Good info and well done!! 👌🏹
Absolutely right, 15 to 20 feet into a stiff target so u can see the arrows angle going into a target. Bag targets r totally useless @ this step if the process.
So what should you tune first? Your rest so it doesn't tear or your knock? (in the case of having a new rest and a new batch of arrows)
Set rest to manufacturer specs for center shot and nock height. Then nock tune so all arrows tear the same. Then move the rest to get bullet holes.
I second this. I'm getting confused with the order all of these tunings should take place (nock, torque, paper, etc). Right now I have a new set up with brand new arrows and completely new draw # and arrow length. If I shoot a bare shaft arrow and it tears the paper, I can correct that by either nock tuning or paper tuning my rest. Correct? So how do I know which one to do first or if the other method is even important?
So are you saying after the center shot, I nock tune to get as close to bullet holes as possible? If bullet holes, then I'm done, but if not, I just get them close and then move the rest to fine tune?
Thanks.
i third this. someone please answer him
I’ve read of checking your shaft stiffness first, determining the stiffest side of shaft, marking it, and aligning Nick with that line. Same purpose?
I have an issue. no matter how much I turn the nock, im still shooting perfect holes. What should i do?
Wow watched this video and decided to go down in my basement and play with a bare shaft test arrow. 5 shots and bullet hole. Thanks!
Bingo!!! Awesome!
can i send a video of me shooting so you can comment on my form and why does my bareshaft tear 5* inches to the right, when other guy shot a bullet hole with the same setup
Another great video thanks!
This is amazing video thank you.
So after re watching, it seems that you should do a knock tune first before messing with shimming or arrow rest adjustment. Since different arrows won't fly straight consistently enough to properly tune a bow?
Nicely done...
The turkey 🦃🦃 woods--da fake homey!
excellent video thanks.
Super useful,
Thanks
Nice 2 see the EZV sight, did u flip it yet 2 get rid of those dreaded tick marks?
Well presented Jack . Very informative and to the point. A little LOL for you and I don’t mean to be picky . You said shoot your arrow perpendicular to the target 🎯 and in your 3 sec clip you were shooting downhill . I’m 6’ 3” and I am with you . Think I’m being too finite, Sorry!!
Do as the giant says, not as the giant does... ;)
Touché pussy cat 🐈
Do I need to nock tune arrows that are pre-fletched from factory? If so, do I just disregard the off-color fletch if it’s not facing up?
That's correct. If the clearance of your rest will allow it, just ignore fletch orientation!
how do i know if im shooting right spine if every bow is different and poundage and draw length
i started tuning my bare shaft 300 spines my first shot was a horrible right tear (LH shooter) so i turned knock counter clockwise and it took half of it out but its still 2” slanted out to the right. but i noticed i hit in the same place very consistently top left amazingly accurate just right tear how do it get it out? i already tried adjusting my rest; just moved where i hit still does the tear. and my old 340 fletched arrows shoot bottom right after rest adjustment for the 300s
Great video as always with great tips but how come you don't just float test dem in a tub, where the strongest side turns itself down? Is it not precise enough ?
Float test is very unreliable in my experience, not to mention a pain to put together and use to just find the stiff side of an arrow.
Super helpful. Why do you rotate knocks 90 degrees? Would it be helpful (Although more time consuming) to do something that would give you more granularity?
It would be most likely, yes. But I've done this for over a decade with 90deg and just feel very comfortable with that process.
Can you nock tune with stock nocks, mark the arrow at the index point, then install a lighted nock with the same orientation, and get the arrows to fly the same? I use Nock Out lighted nocks. They fit so tight, that I can’t turn them without wrecking them, so I have to install them in right orientation. Let me know what you think.
It's all about the arrow getting flexed from the same point. In my opinion (no testing, just thought based here) it's not about the nock, just the orientation of the arrow. Now maybe if one switched to a bushing type nock system it'd change, but that's not your concern here even though the nock out has that plug system. It's not as much of a necking down as with a pin bushing system for example.
Average Jack Archery thanks man. That was my assumption. I’m building my setup with Element Storms, which are .166 ID, so I’m a little bit limited on lighted nock options. I absolutely love my setup though. 250 spine with Ethics stainless steel outserts, 125 grain points, and Zinger Fletches. 550 grain total arrow weight and still managed 19% FOC. Pair it with some stropped Cutthroat 125 grains and I’ll be ready for elk season.
Nice!!!!!
Same thing can be achieved by bow pressing your arrows slightly. The arrow will flex to the weak side. Put a mark on the shaft which way it flexes and fletch your arrows accordingly. Every arrow will leave the bow the same way. I can do a dozen arrows in 15 minutes. 👍
Great idea.
I'm a sucker 4 anyone with a quiver full of bare shafts. I'm going to be doing it for the 3rd time this year very soon. 🤔
That is a lot of information. I hope you can do a more in-depth with the build from start to finish... Thank you again...
czcams.com/video/vL_Cff6f_BA/video.html
@@averagejackarchery hey man i really love your videos! I have a question though. Watching the 25 tips for arrow building by bowmar, I noticed none of this was covered. Was that becuase those things in the video negated the need to bare shaft and knock tune an arrow, as opposed to this info being more for the average hunter that doesn't build the complete arrow? Thanl you!
So what's the use in knock tuning if your going to change the rest? Also once you put vanes and b.hds. on your going to have to knock tune again
The point of nock tuning is to get them all tearing the same. Rest movement is pointless if they're not all tearing the same.
@C C You can't nock tune a bareshaft with a broadhead. It'll fly sideways and backwards. Nock tuning is to get the "tube" part of a finished arrow to act exactly the same way as the next "tube" in the batch. So adding fletchings doesn't change how the tube part of a finished arrow behaves. Broadhead tuning becomes a mute point if your arrows are tuned correctly in my experience. I have many videos on shooting well tuned arrows then controlling fixed blades perfectly. I even have a video of me shooting my wife's bow that isn't tuned and still shooting a fixed blade accurately.
Thanks for the good info! So, I’m kicking up the FOC. I just got my bow restrung and they set everything up for me. I’m shooting a bear anarchy 60 pounds with 28.5 draw. I’m shooting a 300 grain axis match grade with 122 grain insert and 125 grain tip. I cannot for the life of me get rid of a nock right tear bareshaft. I get the same thing from a 340 spine and even my old 400.......except with fletchings. We tweaked the yoke a bit per the specs. It made it a little better but the bow shop says we shouldn’t do anymore. I’ve spun the shaft multiple times to nock tune but that doesn’t help. Do you have any input for me?
Check out my Playlist section for a playlist called "When Tuning Hits the Fan". First video is a video I have on grip and torque tuning. I'll wager that's 99% of your problem.
@@averagejackarchery wow, thanks so much for responding so fast. I’ll check it out right now
Does fletching orientation matter if you are shooting through a whisker biscuit?
Yes. Always shoot cock vane up in a Biscuit.
@@averagejackarchery vane up took me from 5" group to 3" group at 30 yards!!! You're awesome
Easton says that I should shoot a Axis 340, but I was thinking about adding added weight to the front of my arrow. Will the added weight change the spine that I will need to shoot?
Depends on how much weight you want to add. If you're going to build a bell curve arrow and stick with maybe 125-150 up front, you'll probably be alright. But if you're on the edge of two spines and want to go stupid heavy then I'd bump to 300.
The confusing part is some say move rest towards point and some say move rest opposite to bring point inline with nock 🙇🤔🤔
ALWAYS CHASE THE POINT for left or right tears!!! Always always. :) Vertical bring the point inline with nock.
A LOT of conflicting information out there. I've gotten SO frustrated in the past. This year I just made up my mind to go both ways and see the results for myself. Took some time, but I'm shooting 32" Easton Hexx, 200 grain bareshaft with a perfect bullet hole. At 40 yards bareshaft is plumb and plumb. I'm so stoked!
Should the bow be tuned before or after doing nock tuning?
Always before.
Question: What if you made a spine tester and used it to find the side with the least deflection? Sure you would still want to test the arrows out, but wouldn't that cut the "monotonous time consuming" part way down? Or if you buy your shafts spine indexed?
Great question. Spine testers test static spine. Or the simple flex of the arrow at 28" with a standard weight applied. What this is doing is testing dynamic spine. Or what happens when your bow with your arrow specs reacts when it's shot. So, yes, spine alignment is all well and good for static alignment. But dynamic alignment is a totally different ballgame and best tested under such circumstances.
@@averagejackarchery Now that I have done my own shooting, nock tuning and paper... It now makes much more sense.
An aside: all the paper tuning I did had an added bonus. I REALLY was forced to concentrate on my form and what a difference!!
21 feet right? Dr. Ashby?
So, this is generally more important for hunting arrows, not target arrows? … pardon me if I am mistaken
Nope. It's important for both!
@@averagejackarchery so since I have prefletched arrows, a full container whisker biscuit rest or a drop-away rest are better suited than the 3-brush rest, right?
After nock/bareshaft tuning, should you paper tune to have a bullet holes with the bareshaft or fletched arrow? I just started tuning my bow on my own this year and I became super frustrated when I spent so much time getting to a perfect bullet hole with a bare shaft and then had about a 1 inch tear with a fletched shaft. Full disclosure, it wasn't the same shaft and they weren't nock tuned. Is what I was seeing normal or is it likely that much variability between the fletched and unfletched shafts? BTW, I did try multiple fletched shafts and they tore identically, but I only have one bare shaft.
Edit - After writing this, I realized that later on down the road I found that my fletchings were hitting my drop away rest. I've since resolved that issue after checking with some foot powder. I never put 2 and 2 together. I bet of I checked it now they would probably shoot the same 🤦♂️
Great question: in a nutshell, here's my method...
1. Nock tune all arrows to tear the same though paper. Or very close to the same.
2. Move rest to get as close to bullet hole as your abilities allow.
3. Fletch arrows.
4. Shoot through paper again to confirm. The fletchings should HELP. If your tearing again, check Fletch contact with rest and face.
5. No Fletch contact should mean bareshafts and fletched should shoot bullet holes.
@@averagejackarchery Thanks! It must have been the contact issue. I was very puzzled how fletchings could make it worse other than the roughly 18gn difference from the weight of the fletchings I'll have to get back into the lab and do some testing!
Okay man...question! Which do you think is more effective: nock tuning or spine indexing? Fantastic video!
Great question! Spine indexing with like an actual spine tester is definitely the closest you can get to complete consistency. However, it's not a guarantee that's what your dynamic spine is going to want for the arrow build you're making. Since that's the case, I'd rather just nock tune in the long run.
@@averagejackarchery Thanks man! Keep up the solid videos!
Im shooting a drop away QAD Rest. I ended up having to move it towards the riser 3/16" of an inch to get bullet holes. Is 3/16" an acceptable distance to be off center shot in your opinion?
What bow?
@@averagejackarchery Matthew V3. I know recommended center shot is 13/16" + - 1/16" per Matthews. The bow is brand new, so I assume, (maybe I shouldn't), that the timing/etc is all good the way it's supposed to be. I have 28.5 inch draw length and shooting approx 64 lbs. I'm shooting 300 spined Easton Axis. I went through the Ranch Fairy Test kit with field points, (100 grains thru 300 grains), and started off with massive tears with bareshafts. The Ranch Fairy refereed me to one of your videos where you talk about form/torque, and that helped a bunch. I was definitely NOT griping my bow properly, so that helped get rid of the massive tears right away. However, as I played with different point weights, and also adjusted draw weights slightly, the best I could get was approx 1 1/2" straight left tears, pretty consistently. I went up as high as the 300 grain point, and that actually shot pretty well, but after I made maybe a 1/16" of an inch adjustment towards the riser. I eventually ended up moving the rest a total of 3/16" of an inch towards the riser, and as long as my grip and form are good, I can shoot 200 grains to 300 grains with fairly good bullet holes, with 250 grains being the best so far. I don't think there's any issue, but just wanted to know your opinion on what should be "acceptable" as far as how far off center shot a guy can go.
And what about fletching after nock tune has been achieved?
czcams.com/video/_NxrTFI7a8g/video.html Troy has a great video on that! I still have to do my own. 🙄
Can you nock tune after fletchings have been applied?
Yes! Hope to have a video about that this Spring...
@@averagejackarchery cant wait!
Do you think it’s a good idea to nick tune fmj’s?
I'd tune any arrow that has carbon as a main component!
Average Jack Archery awesome thanks man!
If you get victory arrows you don't have to go through all that,because they spine align all there arrows.
This is something I want to put to the test no doubt!
I use the vap too 300
@@doncaruso1949 The Victory marks can be very inconsistent. People that use spine testers rarely come up with the same spine. I think it can be called close at best.
Don’t trust that spine align on those victories, had to nock tune all of mine because it wasn’t right, shooting the RIP XV.
@@zhickman338 All depends on how they are tested. lots of people test the bare shafts, with no nocks, inserts/etc. I have found if you put the nock in and the inserts(non glued) that my bend int eh shaft seems to change position of the dynamic bend/spine. Also people tend to find one bend/spine and call it good, when there tends to be more than one. Key is to find the one that has the deepest valley.
I have never had to nock tune my aluminum arrows because there is no seem in it . I don't waste my time . If my bow is tuned I'm good more time scouting and killing game. Now days people waste time do this . I get more time to practice to .
If you're just beginning in archery do not do this! Get your grip, form, and release figured out first then start doing this. If youre not consistent youll wanna throw your bow on the roof😂
The brick is not red!!!!
Muwahaha! Though, there is still red in the video haha. Not done yet!
....what?
Когда не нашел хребет в шафте то начинаю заниматься уйнёй.
Guy talks way too much and says little. If he cut out the unnecessary chatter he would have a 5 minute video at most.
I'm sorry you feel that way! Unfortunately, my videos are directed with beginners in mind, and they might not know all the ins and outs that us more experienced archers take for granted. Things like making sure our arrows are correctly spined, bow is appropriately tuned, etc. Hence the longer videos!
Average Jack Archery thank you for taking your time (and ours 🤣) to elaborate!