Bare Shaft Tuning | BRUTALLY HONEST CONVERSATION
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 24. 06. 2020
- Bare Shaft Tuning | BRUTALLY HONEST CONVERSATION Archery Shop owner Josh Jones takes us through his method for tuning arrows and broadhead(s). This was a great discussion about bareshaft tuning and how it applies to us as hunters and archers. #archery #keepyourhshafttoyourself
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JJ kind of blew our minds here.. what do you all think? thumbs up if you think SVA should start a CZcams channel đ€
Elk Shape keep him on yalls channel, I like Dan and Joshâs back and forth cracks
I think he should!
Hell yes JJ should have his own channel I love the no Bull shit talk.
đđŒ
JJ & Cousins could be a show if he teamed up with the Cousins guy from G5Prime. They remind me alot of each other.
In my experience, broadheads can appear to fly pretty well even when bare shafts are not flying well. But every time I get a bare shaft to fly perfect, the broadheads also fly perfect. So IMO a bare shaft shows the flaws in your tune better than just broadhead tuning. I don't like paper tuning because I don't feel like I'm shooting the same shot when I'm not aiming and trying to hit something. I bare shaft tune then verify with broadheads.
word - if it works for you and you have the time.. keep on keeping on - tC
williambilse I agree
Well said my friend. Great info in the video no doubt, but I am also a believer that the bare shaft getting tuned with the bow is a great start to getting everything else right. Its as if the shaft tuning is the foundation, so if its good and straight, then add your variables, but also be very sure to shoot your broadheads plenty to ensure you get the best possible outcome. Good stuff all around!
While I don't agree 100% with MFJJ, he obviously knows what he is talking about. I would say, however, that where I find bare shaft tuning has the most value is during set up. If you can shoot a perfect bullet hole with a bare shaft at 10 feet then you know your arrow is coming out of the bow straight. This will mean, hopefully, all the leverage that your fletching applies to the shaft will go towards compensating for the broadhead. He is 100% right about making sure you add some weight to the rear of the arrow when bare shaft tuning though.
Thanks for the video, very informative. I'd love to see some more tech videos from him and this shop.
I agree, I'm sure he knows but adjust yokes or shim if needed as well.
Every bow shop owner I've talked to about this says the same thing, in the same arrogant I-know-better-than-anyone way and it's wrong, plain and simple. Ranch Fairy said it best - "the proof is in the penetration" - you get a bareshaft arrow to shoot perfectly straight, your broadhead flight will be all the better for it. You know he's wrong when he says "the whole purpose of what we're trying to do is get your broadhead and field point to hit in the same spot. Why does it matter where your shaft goes at that point?" That's target archery, where penetration doesn't matter. In bow hunting, if your broadhead hits the right spot, but your arrow is flying sideways, you aren't getting much penetration and you'll end up injuring and losing an animal or spend hours tracking it on a minimal blood trail. You'll be scratching your head wondering what the hell went wrong - "But it hit perfectly!"
That's an interesting sentence that you quoted. The funny thing is that if one's broadheads and field points are hitting the same spot at all ranges, then one can assume that they are both flying straight. That's just physics.
Exactly what I thought when I watched the first few minutes of this video. His reasoning is backwards.
Last time I did bare shaft tuning I ended up paying child support
lol was waiting for one of these comments đ
It was there for the taking
Lol. đđ That's Str8 Hilarias!!
I'm calling bare shaft tunning Raw dogging now! Lol
What if I shoot a super stuff arrow buy a test kit from ethics and follow the ranch Fairy?lol
I had two out of a dozen arrows shooting consistently low. Flip them over and they shoot high. They spin true. Cut the fletching off, bare shaft tuned at 15 yards and they now hit center using the same broad head. It appears to me that it might matter.
This is caused by the spine tolerances between shafts, it helps if you shoot every arrow as a bare shaft and clock them.
Dan, Iâve watched endless vids on several of these topics. JJ is a one stop shop. Got âer done in under 14 minutes. Exactly the info Iâve needed all wrapped up without any fluff or bs. Thanks for taking the time to get this together and posted, much appreciated!
Right on - appreciate that đ€
From my experiences and Iâm shooting traditional so it is a little bit different. But bareshaft tuning is to try to get the arrows to fly as near perfect as possible before adding the rudder on the back. The fletching steers the arrow more than the broadhead because of basic physics. Unless you have more weight at the tail end of your arrow which nobody does. After I group my bareshafts with my fletched shafts and have a good straight arrow in the target ill shoot my broadhead and if my aim is true then 9.9 times out of 10 my broad heads hit right with my field points.
yessir!!
Yep, the guy doesn't understand that the fletching covers up flaws in arrow flight of a field tip. If you bareshaft tune your dozen arrows before you fletch. The broadheads should fly with your field tips. If you use wooden arrows. You cut off a little bit of an arrow until you find the correct spline. With carbon arrows. Most arrows will fly right. If they are are all off. Paper tune. If you have issues with 2 or 3 arrows Turn the knock in 15o or less increments until the arrow flies right. Then you know your arrow has perfect arrow flight. You can now proceed to fletch the arrows.
Bare shaft tuning started in traditional archery It will also tell you the spine of your arrow before even putting a broad head on if your arrows improperly spined with the field point it's still not gonna work with broadhead there are a programs to give you a dood idea on spine of your arrows bare shaft helps verify that
Awesome knowledge. Helps to confirm logic of what is going on when setting up bow/arrows and how to fix / confirm what is the fix.
Interesting vid, not that I disagree with all of that but I never, ever move my rest off center-shot. If itâs not in tune make the appropriate bow adjustment, top hat or yoke twist. I personally shoot Victory VAPs which mark their spine BUT I still verify every single bare shaft by shooting through paper. The reason is simple, not all bows like the spine in the same spot, for instance my RX-1 likes the spine at the 9 oâclock position and my SR6 likes it directly on top at 12 oâclock. So I bareshaft/nock tune to ensure my arrows are all built the same. It takes me maybe 15 minutes to do a dozen BUT my bows are always in tune because my garage is basically a bow shop and I own all of the necessary equipment. If you truly wanna be a good archer, build your own arrows, tune your own bows! Youâll learn a lot! Iâve never had a (only only shoot 2, Exodux and Slick Trick) broadhead not shoot like my fieldtips.
My ss likes it at 12 o'clock too. I also have a at home bow shop. The bowtech realm series is the most tunable bow to the shooter I've ever worked on
Damn, how awesome would it be to be your guy's neighbour... Crab walk living down the road on my right and J Huntly on the left.. Have some tuned gear that's forsure.. Not that my stuff isn't bad but I aspire to have the space and home one day to have a bow shop in my garage..
@@Skelstoolbox how big is your apartment, or living space, you can shoot, blank bail, paper rune etc in most living rooms. Only hurdle is a good target and a bow press.
Good info. I think the point of bare shaft tuning is that it helps tune the bow correctly without potentially losing or damaging expensive broadheads.
Thank you so much that was a lot of help. I have been going to the bow shops in my city asking why my broadheads are shooting lower and no one could give me a straight answer, I finally came across your video adjusted my rest and I'm now within half of an inch of each other thank you so much
After watching 20 videos on tuning your bow⊠this is by far the best video. MFJJ is spot on with whatever he is saying. So easy to follow along. Thanks guys
Wow, thanks!
Loved this info. As a newer bow hunter I didn't realize all that goes into an arrow and tuning. Thanks for the video!
Read Dr Ed Ashbyâs studies before listening to this guyâŠ
Thanks for this video, this is pure gold for a beginner like myself, love that you're helping others to learn
we're trying đ
Read Dr ED Ashbyâs actual scientific studies before listening to these guys
Great video Josh ! I've been shooting bows for 53 years and never stop learning or teaching.
Thanks for the watch!
Probably some of the Best tuning tips I've ever heard! Man he is a Archery Encyclopedia!! He definitely needs a CZcams channel!! Awesome Intel, Keep up the great work guys!! O yea I 4got to mention too that out of all my years of being a bow tech I've never once had to Bareshaft to tune an Arrow!!
very cool - thanks for sharing
Best tunning video ive watched. And ive seen plenty. Will share this for sure. Thanks great job. And thorough
appreciate that
For what its worth I have been in this stuff for a bit and there is a lot of good perspectives and suggestion here. If you are looking for be negative you will find it. Thank you for taking the time to post this video it will help many people have a better understanding of what steps they can take to make thing the best they can be.
Thanks for that!
Yes they should have there own channel and yeah that's awesome I like seeing the break down and it helps me eliminate things from my own process and make it simpler
Seriously going to watch this again. The knowledge is incredible.
appreciate that
So true JJ. I start with my bow which is true @ 58 pounds. My results tell me I'm getting good arrow flight but need to turn my 65 lb. bow up about 5 lbs. I shoot bare shafts with a field point to give me my nock tuning spine. I mark the top of the nock with a sharpie. Then I fletch, usually 6 out of 12 so I can proceed & focus w/o having the burden of having to do it with 12 shafts which tends to take the fun out of it. Usually the papertune goes very fast so I walk back & shoot these 6 arrows @ 20 & 30 yards. Then b4 I mount broadheads on them I shoot the field points from above onto 3D targets. The last round I use the target as a backstop so I can shoot twigs hanging down between my position in the đł & the target. I'm shooting a 20% FOC so it actually helps with another step in the process which comes in handy in a hunting scenario. Then I shoot broadheads into my new SEVR targets which r very handy also during the bareshaft process.
awesome
I agree. Put a wrap on the shaft or shoot feathers to negate FOC differences so you can learn a LOT from shooting bare shafts. Learn what? How straight your arrows want to fly off the bow, which directly reflects how close broadheads and field points will impact.
For sure đ€
I've just bought a new bunch of shafts and was thinking about the daunting task of nock tuning them all (I have never did it before).
Not now!! Awesome vid, makes so much sence.
Keep them coming! And yes SVA should def start a no bullshit CZcams channel!
No BS for the WIN
Wow! Awesome stuff. Really appreciate the in-depth on broad head tuning!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Dan and MFJJ!
This one is a keeper!
MFJJ
Thanks for all the great videos and insight!
I agree a bareshaft and broadhead will impact in the same or very similar spot. One great reason not to ignore the bareshaft, they don't eat up expensive targets like fixed blades do. Do 99% of the work with a bareshaft then double check with a fixed blade to save $$$
I agree! bare shaft tuning makes sure your arrow is flying as close to perfect as possible. Then do all the steps ik showed in this video. One more layer of control.
I gave up paper tuning with a fletched arrow a looonnggg time ago. As mentioned, I just compensate for the loss of weight due to the vanes not being there. I do it because a bareshaft doesn't lie. Ever. That just lets me focus on my centershot and yoke (provided you have one). I've had zero problems in achieving bullet holes out to 8-10 yards (doing it in the basement).
JJ is 200% correct. All your tuning is for naught if you don't pay HUGE attention to the shaft-insert-broadhead fit. If it doesn't spin like a top with no wobble ..... forget it. And even then it's not an absolute guarantee. Many do not realize, your $1,500 bow is being defeated by a $0.20 insert because it wasn't tapped straight. I've wound up making each hunting arrow.......and I will go through 20-30 inserts to find the right arrow/broadhead match.....and THEN glue it up. BTW a really tight fitting $0.10 nock can be just as damaging.....learned that one the hard way.
Results? The worst year I had was broadheads were hitting 1" left of field points at 30 yards. Most years there is no neglible difference between the two. Great knowledge being shared in the video, kudos!
This all makes a lot of sense. Thank you for putting this info out. A question, does this principle apply to the stick bow?
Assuming so - TC
Just shot my broadheads yesterday and was getting a consistent 2" broadhead right. Definitely thought i would be over spined shooting 75 lbs 27"dl. Easton Axis 260 with 210 grain up front and 580 grain taw. Carbon to carbon its 28". I guess im going to have to shorten them up to see if it tightens up any since from what he said i was under spined. AWESOME VIDEO!
Glad it's helping đ€
Great stuff, the demos on the target really help! Once again top notch!!
RUEBEN
Elk Shape whatâs up homies!!
That was great info to share!! SVA definitely needs a channel
Yes it does!
So much juice, will have to see it again. Thanks Dan and Josh.
I had to watch several times - TC
This video just blew my mind Iâm gonna have to watch a few more times to remember all this archery school work session thank you gentlemen
đ€
Take it with a grain of salt and watch Ranch Fairy for a different perspective. Then make your decision.
Awesome video very informative. Saw a 150 spine arrow available the other day, not for me but surprised to see it.
Oh wow! More and more stiffer spines becoming available, it's trending for sure.
super informative and timely. Thanks again.
What about feathers JJ??
I like the method you use, seems quick easy and effective. I think some of the comments may be confusing this as a nock or arrow tuning video. Do you guys mess with nock tuning your arrows at all?
The biggest reason I still bareshaft tune is that from my testing, once my bows(this is with multiple bows from different manufacturers) are bareshaft tuned, I have more options for fixed blades that I can just screw on and more often than not, that head will fly. On top of that, you have your rest movements backward, you always chase your broadhead/bareshaft with the rest. Meaning, if your broadhead is left of field points, move the rest to the left.
If you have time and it works for you that is great.. Just confirmed with JJ that the fix is as he explained in the video.. Not sure where the discrepancy comes from - TC
Elk Shape the rest movements come from paper tuning. If your broadheads hit to the left of your field points, itâs the same as having a tail right tear, which you fix by move your rest toward the broadhead.
Nope, you always steer the broadhead to the field point to find the common impact point, the field point is already hitting good, now you're (for lack of a better term) adding fletching to the front of your arrow, plus making your arrow longer by adding the broadhead, which will change the dynamics of the shaft flight, but you should still always bareshaft tune as you already stated.
You Sir are correct. You follow the BH and not the FP. Paper tear nock left for right hand shooters move rest right. If you shot BH it would impact right of FP with a left tear. Soooo many people now are being misguided by this video. Go to archery talk and look into tuning and you will see that YOU MUST FOLLOW THE BH.
Agree agree agree but, Iâm knew and always learning. This a a great straight forward informative video. Thanks
Interesting video. One of the most importent things is said @ the end of the video. Unless you are a shooting machine, execute every shot sequence multiple times with the same arrows. So verifying differences between the arrows before making adjustments to your setup. Otherwise you will be chasing ghost.
Worth the time to shoot groups
Glad I watched this Iâve been losing my mind trying to bareshaft tune Iâve given up. Constant nock low tear no matter what. Iâve had a hell of a time trying to tune my VXR 28 and this damn thing will not tune. Iâve tried everything spent countless hours in the shop. Just going to fletch all my arrows and broadhead tune. If I canât get this thing to tune going to gravel tune this damn bow.
Like the video guys! There are more ways than one to kill elk đ. I agree with almost everything stated except the left/right issues due to spine. Yes, you can change your poundage and make the arrow hit left or right, but, you can also change that impact by moving your cam lean. This is made extremely easy with Eliteâs SET technology. Also, bareshaft tuning is HUGE for getting more than one arrow to impact the same at distance. If short range is your game then there is no need to bare shaft tune each arrow. But for ultimate accuracy (and yes I am a hunter and a target shooter that shoots long range) bare shaft tuning each arrow is extremely important to have a complete quiver full of arrows that impact equally. But there is no doubt you are laying down some good info! Great job!
Exactly so. The big question (in my mind) is why not prove the arrow(s) are leaving the bow perfectly straight? A good starting point, broadhead tuning to follow.
Perfect! Awesome video. This is exactly the stuff needed to get dialed in this September.
Would never let this guy touch my bow! Bareshaft tuning is the only way to guarantee results.
you do you - TC
Curious as to when to accept the grouping. With all of the variables like grip, facial pressure, etc.. what would you say is an acceptable grouping distance? 1/2" @ 20 yards? Of course making sure you shoot multiple groups to ensure the same groups.
You guys should check out The Ranch Fairy CZcams channel. He has some great videos on the subject of bare shaft tuning.
It looks to me like this video is a sort of damage control, since the Ashbury method has gained popularity. Archery shops aren't generally stocked up for individual needs in diverse applications and it's easier to make a video to try to convince people to abandon physics, than it is to become educated and maybe create a new business model that will be helpful in a greater level.
@@pizzahunter808 if you're hunting pizza, then maybe those twizzler stock arrows with an expandable blade could work. For those of us that hunt animals with a skeletal system made of BONE, a much greater penetration set up is desirable...lol
@@pizzahunter808 Stick with hunting pizzas. You apparently don't know much about hunting animals. Animals almost always MOVE between the time you launch the arrow and the time the arrow impacts its body. I guess if you can accurately predict every inch and direction of the animals movement and slide that arrow between the rib bones, then you can rely on your twizzlers. I've shot and killed nearly 100 deer in 12 seasons and maybe three or four deer stood still for the arrow fight.
Great video ! Thanks guys!
đ€
Well dang that made a ton of sense.
I had this same question today. Someone sent me this video. After spending so much time with bareshaft tuning I realized I still had to tune my broadheads. Although Bh tuning wasnât as tedious. Still I wondered why bare shaft if my end goal is the broad head which Iâm still going to tune. I had my cousin shooting his Bh and I made adjustments to group them with his field points. Then I had him shoot a bs and that impacted perfectly. So now I honestly feel bs is a waste of time. Now I do like bs shooting mainly to get my nock in the best position before I fletch them. So either way Iâll probably still keep doing it.
Yeah it certainly has it place.. but can be skipped if you're tuning fixed BH's
JJ - is 15yds the ideal distance for this testing? Should the target be as close to level with my rest as possible, or lower than my rest height, like youâre doing with the target on the stool?
Iâve always thought the bare shaft was BS.
Seems tuning the bow to bullet holes with the center shot within manufacturers spec, then making sure the Broadhead was spinning perfectly, was all that was needed to get broadheads to fly with field points out to about 60-70 yards.
GREAT info in here about the relation of spine to left and right hits as well as the cam timing and nock point. Very well done.
Thanks Dre đ€
There are many ways to tune a bow. If you get a bare shaft to hit with s fletched, you will be very close when you screw that fixed broad head on. You are recommending shooting fletched thru paper to get it close, both methods require actually shooting broad heads at long distance. Some broad heads will also hit exactly in the same place, others might need a very small tweek to get them perfect. You have not discovered anything new, all experienced tuners know this. The real problem with bare shaft tuning is it takes an experienced archer with very good form, where a fixed head with generous fletching is more forgiving than a bare shaft.
As for the weight on the back, you will find that a bare shaft without the fletching weight will hit 1/4" to 3/8" above the fletched, it actually has more to do with drag than weight.
You do not need to waste time shooting through paper, it is the beginning step that some people use, but a good hole with a fletched arrow means that you are close, but the fletches are correcting the flight before it goes through paper masking exactly what is going on. I have found that spine consistency from arrow to arrow should be corrected by clocking all your arrows (bare shafts) prior to fletching for maximum accuracy. So, there is a lot of good reasons to shoot bare shafts. Another one that I use every day is to practice with bare shafts to work on consistent form. When you can shoot a 300 with bare shafts, your form is good. You may use any method you like, but you are doing a disservice to archers telling then that there are no good reasons to shoot bare shafts.
Very good info. Thank you
appreciate that
This was very detailed and Josh covered a ton. What're your thoughts on nock tuning and French tuning? It seems like you'd still want to nock tune those fliers that won't quite group.
Be a good question for JJ
Bare shaft tuning matters because itâs the lowest common denominator, and it will determine the angle at target impact. The angle can be different even if both tips are hitting the same point. Why is this important?
1) if youâre arrows are impacting on axis (centreline of the arrow) you will protect your arrow and broad heads, reducing wear on the edge and or likelihood of breaking equipment when impacting bone.
2) if the arrows are impacting on axis, the broad head will cut symmetrically as itâs designed, which will increase penetration and therefore lethality of the shot which all hunters should aspire to.
3) whether itâs tangible or not, the arrow that flies straight will be flying faster, as it will not experience as much energy loss at release and in flight. Furthermore, you tune for perfect conditions. In the outdoors, variables such as wind etc will amplify any fine tuning issues
4) fletchings were used back in the day BECAUSE arrow rests, plungers etc etc didnât exist. They were necessary to counteract the aerodynamic forces imparted by the broad heads. Now we understand that, we can use fletchings (in acknowledgment of FOC) to refine flight rather than macro correct it.
Thanks for bestowing your knowledge on us Adam.. Maybe you misunderstood Josh. Josh is saying that bareshaft tuning is great, but it is an unnecessary step in the process if you plan to shoot fixed broadheads. Because tuning fixed broadheads is essentially the same thing, and all of our arrows shoot bullet holes through paper. At least that is my interpretation of his words. Also Josh also says if you have the time, go ahead and bareshaft tune - TC
@@ElkShape thatâs not what he said at all
Thanks for the video very helpful
No problem!
Hell yes SVA should start a CZcams channel, even if itâs just filming bow setups or shop life.
word
In my case I broke a fletch with the field point and the biggest separation was 1/4â higher. I used Annihilator 100 grain broadheads.
Edit: Congrats on 15K guys đđ»
Thank you so much
Ranch Fairy. Thatâs all Iâm going to say.
Yep! Crushing the industry indoctrination!
As the the ranch fairy says the proofs in the penetration. Could you imagine the money these bow shop owners would lose if people realized once a bow is square itâs fine
Ranch Fairy!!! On point!
Seriously - impact paradox! Where the shaft goes matters with regard to losing energy and momentum.
Right!
This information is golden
Great info đđ»
appreciate that đ€
This is the way I've been tuning for more than 20 years hasn't let me down yet. Can't believe the comments are so positive with all the people that throw a big hoopla about bare shaft tuning. I've watched friends of mine just kicking themselves trying to bare shaft tune and scratching their heads and getting ticked off during the process. Then I step up and tune my way and they just get even more mad as I'm laughing. Great info here.
Josh would kill it if he had his own CZcams channel. Would probably irritate a few just from being real.
Agreed - we're working on getting him one. Glad to hear this system has worked for you. Don't worry, there will be negative comments lol - TC
I like those AAE Max Stealth vanes but boy are they HEAVY. Trying some Q2i's now. Nice video !
Thank you! - shoot what works best for you đ€
Best common sense tuning video out there, great job.
Thank you - glad it helped
WE GOT 15k!!!!!!!!!!! Heck yeah!!!!! Great job guys!!!
appreciate that brother đ
Awesome video, you really no your stuff! I would like to say though. I agree you dont necessarily need to bareshaft tune. As you said bareshafts will typically hit where broadheads would go. But you didnt account for the fact that braodheads tear the crap out of your targets. That is why i bareshaft/nock tune. Then when im all done with a set of arrows i just shoot each one with a broadhead and ive never had an issue. Just a though. Keep the videos coming always look forward to the ones with josh in them
do what works for you - TC
I want to bring my broadhead impact up slightly. I was thinking of moving my rest up, but now youâve got me thinking cams. So how would I adjust the cams? Add a twist to the bottom cam?
so instead of bareshaft tuning (with a field point), you should just do all the same things but shooting a broadhead? I enjoyed doing the bareshaft tuning, and it helped me figure out I was torquing my bow, which I got fixed. The big plus for me, is that I know the arrows are coming off the bow properly, and are entering the target (or animal) as efficiently as possible. But then again, I'm also shooting adult arrows and single bevels, so what do I know?
According to the rage shooters we donât know anything đ€Łđ€Ł
I'm impressed with the sheer volume of keyboard archery professionals weighing in on your video JJ.
Maybe they should open their own bow shops and do the testing with literally hundreds of bows each year since (I think you said your were a shop rat at age 12?) they were old enough to work... like you and many other professionals operating shops...
For the guys tagging RF Troy in the comments, my dad was an actual NASA engineer and we did the kE, momentum, some dynamics, front-of-center, energy loss over time and distance, etc tests 25 years ago that RF is doing now, and I've continued to do those tests since on an annual basis.
All Iâm going to say is Ranch Fairy, Ashby bow hunting foundation, check it out. If it doesnât make you question your current opinion then you werenât paying attention.
Very familiar with both of them.. And based on my interpretation of their findings.. very in line with what MFJJ believes - TC
cant wait to build my own arrows. gonna be interesting for my first time lol
excited for you đ
So if your broad head wobbled which in his situation it did not, how do you fix that? Do you need to square up the cuts on the arrow? What if your arrow is already cut to length? Thank you
Is that broadhead tuning rest adjustment correct? BH impacts right move rest left? I believe when a bh tipped arrow comes of the bow nock left it will point the bh in the opposite direction, to the right. Where the fixed blade âwingsâ will catch air and they will plane in that direction. Moving your rest to the right (to the bh) will correct the nock left bow exit causing the bh to fly straighter, impacting with your FP. Coincidentally those are the same adjustments for bare shaft tuning. Hmm. The rest adjustment is not one of those things where it depends on the person or the bow. âWhatever works for youâ does not apply. Itâs physics and itâs consistent.
That is correct broadhead impacting right of field point requires same adjustment as left paper tear which is move rest to the right
Ty for keeping the tech talk real and very understandable! As mentioned previous, the "Ranch Fairy" has some interesting info. His "Adult Arrow" concept works for certain applications, like pigs or whitetails hunted from a treestand where you will most likely get a chance to range the deer/pig. Elk hUK nting from the ground is an entirely dofferent scenario and as s such, flat trajectory of arrows becomes really important, thus "Adult arrows" are not best usdd in the Elk application. As humans, we all want a "fix all" or "works best 4 everything" solution, but in reality, individual solutions snd applications work best for each individual scenario. For where Dan n Josh n I are from, the "Western" style of archery hunting is the norm. Thus, a flat shooting, hard hitting arrow os what I want. IF I somehow mis guess yardage by 5 yards, I want my arrows inside an acceptable grouping so it is still a kill shot, not a sounding shot. Finding the balance is what is most important to me so Im consistently I'm n the kill zone! Thx Elk shape guys and "MFJJ"- (M.F. stands for Master Fletcher) I think....... or was it "Mandingo Fantastico"? I cant remember- regardless that MoFo knows his Archery stuff and is ALWAYS Awesome to work with.
Read Dr Ed Ashbyâs studies⊠Your statement isnât even close to being correct at all
Itâs not about where they hit, itâs the quality of the flight that counts. If the broadheads and field points are hitting the same spot but flying like crap then itâs not right.
Move the field point toward the broadhead, not broadhead toward field point.
Not true
Ya, he said it himself âbroadheads fly where bareshafts goâ stick with bareshaft tuning it WILL work! If you are getting inconsistent results go back to the bareshaft or you have a bad arrow or broadhead. Shoot the best flying arrows and critters.
I like the points he made but my man reason to bare shaft tune is to get close with broad heads without tearing up my target as much.
that works too đ€
What arrow stops (targets) are you using in the shop on this video , arrow targets look modular and great for a basement setup in the house.
Good informationâđđŸđč
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Awesome info. So many " hunter?" have no clue as to what you are explaining. Especially the ones that buy Walmart arrows at whatever length and then screw on heads and call it good. I would hopeevery new bow hunter could see this and other arrow instruction videos. đđ
How much do you suggest shorting the arrow to stiffen up slightly. 1/4"?
Josh and SVA need a channel...and Iâm still anxious to see his press if he comes out with it.
word!
So question I have about my bow is, I just had the timing adjusted. My broadheads are hitting 10 yards low (my 30 pin is on at 20). I can't move my rest up any more as the top bar is making contact with the cable guard so it is maxed out as far up as it can go. How do you suggest I correct this?
how old are strings and cables
I first stated with getting my F.O.C between 12-19%. Then I insert tune with a broadhead, then bare shaft each arrow/nock tune. After that it dont matter what fixed blade or what distance. My broadheads hit where my field points do. Also got ride of the Microdiameter arrows. As long as the arrow is less that 5% of the diameter of the broadhead feral. Anything less than that doesn't have any more penetration.
I'm with a lot of guys in this thread. I rarely paper tune anymore but always bareshaft tune. With that said I never shoot bare shafts through paper either. You immediately can tell if your spine is weak or stiff, rest is high or low, etc. Rarely more than a few micro adjustments as long as the bow was set up properly and your spine is on. Yeah, I still finalize this at distance with broadheads but again, rarely make more than a few micro adjustments.
I will add that all the info he mentions I agree with minus the no need to bareshaft. It's not that I totally disagree either but simply that I see it as "6 in one, half dozen in the other". He mentions your shafts and broadheads should hit together on a timed bow set up correctly, or atleast I feel like that's what I heard. I just opt to shoot the bareshaft during my setup/arrow build process then verifying with a broadhead, which generally is on with no to very little added adjustments. Great video! Feel sorry for anyone buying in to the ranch fairy as written gospel!
So, if a bare shaft tuned arrow hit the same place when they are âstraightâ, it would seem that bare shaft tuning would at the very least, would be a great first step before finishing with broadheads.
Paper tuning bareshaft and with fletching is important because fletchings mask imperfect arrow flight. Your field point and your broadhead and can hit the same and both come in crooked screwing up penatration.
Your fixed broadhead will do the same.. but we encourage everyone to bareshaft if they want to. ABT
use a bare shaft when you paper tune. When I get a perfect bullet hole in the paper. I noticed my bow is faster and quieter. Then you go out and sight it in on a Target with a fletched arrow.
Buenos dĂas!!!!
Hacéis un trabajo brutal compartiendo vuestro saber.
Pero muy ha gente de la que os sigue, solo lo hacemos por las imĂĄgenes y es una pena no entender todo lo que hablĂĄis.
AquĂ desde España te seguimos mucha gente y nos gustarĂa bien hiciĂ©semos algĂșn vĂdeo que otro en español o se pudiese traducir en subtĂtulos.
Muchas gracias!!!
Saludos!!!!!!
Y buena caza!!!!!!!
I dont use fixed blade broadheads. I use a lead weight in the back to mimic the weight of the fletxhings down to .1 of a grain. Then i bareshaft tune and it works every single time.
I wish I found this video before my deer season began last week!!!
the thing i never got about trying to get them both to hit the same spot is that if you change one thing on your bow it should have an effect that is equal to both the broadhead and the field point. you might get them to align for a few yards, but eventually they will be off. i only worry about 20 to 30 yards. trying to figure this out to get out past 50 but then there is always the question about form.
Yeah just earlier this year Dan was shooting longer distances and had variance.. had to micro tune his rest to get it there - TC
@@ElkShape hehe, i live in the city, i have to drive 2 hours just to shoot my bow with a broadhead past 20 yards for longer than a few shots. i really need to move so i can micro tune at longer distance lol
Should you do a dynamic spine test bare shaft? Before fletching
I thought you want to move the rest to the opposite direction when broadhead tuning. For example if the broadhead hits left, that means your rest is left relative to the string, causing the arrow to plane left. So, you'd move the rest to the right a bit and try again.
Just confirmed with JJ it is as he said it - TC
@@ElkShape Thanks for the reply. Re-watched and yes, he is saying exactly that.
This is wrong, you have to move arrow rest TOWARDS to bareshaft/broadhead if it hits left or right of field point. Gold tip tuning guide: uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190514/494ca6dcddb590b56552643989c65d2d.jpg
I just wrap the back end with electric tape to match the weight, then bareshaft tune out to 40 then broad head tune.
nice!
That's the method I figured out on my own years ago, it works great. I'm kind of surprised how many people are arguing for bare shaft tuning anyways, that time is probably better spent shooting your bow and staying in elk shape...
It takes 40 minutes tops to nock tune a dozen arrows. Youâre pulling the bow back and working the release. How is that not helpful in improving your shot process? And you get straight flying arrows at the end.
I agree with you. However, I bareshaft tune so I donât destroy my foam target as fast. When the bareshaft and field points are together, the broadheads will hit there too.
sensible đ€
I always thought the purpose of bare shaft tuning was to find the stiff side of the shaft on all of your arrows