How to fix to an insulated wall
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- čas přidán 24. 03. 2016
- Fixing to an insulated wall can be very difficult. In this demonstration I use space-plugs to bridge the gap between the item being fixed and the external wall. Fixing to an insulated wall is much easier if you use the space plugs. Some insulated plasterboard can be as think as 90mm, making it difficult to get a good fixing but by using the space plugs you are guaranteed to get a good fixing. Thanks to Rob from Colour republic as he has been posting about using these for years. Here is a forum post showing space plugs in use-
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/for...
Space plugs on Amazon- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/for...
Here is a link to Colour Republic’s website- www.colourrepublic.co.uk/ - Jak na to + styl
That's got to be one of the most challenging things to come across when fixing things to a wall
Great Demo :)
+Liam
Thanks Liam ;-)
I always like your videos for the practical examples you give. Great video as always pal
+Junior J
I'm glad you find the videos useful ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Nice tip. Have never seen those before. I had that problem in my house. I used an extra long drill bit to go through plasterboard, insulation and into the solid wall. Then simply took a 4 inch long screw, threaded a wall plug on the end and pushed it through the hole. It sometimes took a bit of finding.to get it into the hole, but once in.would usually tighten up
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great tips! Solved my headache as just insulated an outhouse and we want worktop installing and need batons fixing! Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thank you very much, knight to the rescue :). it wasn't until after the builder finished the insulated wall I realised we/he should have put a wood 2x4 batten flat across the brick over the french doors and windows, that would come to the front of the insulated plasterboard, then after plastering over it, I could have just screwed the curtain pole fixings through the layer of plaster into solid wood backed by brick. Would have been easier than this method, but I'm glad I found this video, so I can finally get the curtain poles up (heavy curtains). Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent tip and I will log that away with the rest of the great tips and how to's you give, thanks.
+camohoj
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Nice tip that chez , i have always used a bit of 22mm copper pipe cut to size and fitted very similar to what you did using a hole saw and it works ok , but those space plugs look like the real deal and i will give them a try , cheers and happy easter..... : )
+yensabi
Thanks, space plugs have been out for years and have lots of uses. To be honest I did think about using some galvanised steel pipe myself for this application but the space plugs are much easier.
Thanks for the comment and Happy Easter ;-)
I use a bit of broom handle / dowel.
:o at 2:43 you called masking tape 'insulation tape'. I've informed the 'DIY Police' (all 11 of them who have 'disliked' this vid) so you should be receiving a summons in the mail. ;)
Superb concise and enjoyable video as always, cheers!
+Paul T
LOL, I didn't even notice even when editing it.
Thanks for the comment
I use a small length of 15mm JG pipe when I’ve needed to do this. Those fixtures are clearly better.
Copper pipe works just as well or heavy duty electrical conduit cut to length which I better for heavy loads .smaller hole needed and it can be tightened up a lot more .
Great video, I've never had to fix like this, but now I know! Brilliant idea!
+Faisal Y
Thanks Faisal
Another excellent video Will try them space plugs next time they look the real deal thanks man .
Thanks for the comment
Great tip. I would suggest using thunderbolt concrete anchors so you don't have the hassle of rawlplugs.
👍
Had this problem myself on recent new build garages when mounting garage door control gear.
Ive ended up using a product I fluked coming across at a trade fair called CoreFix by a firm called Metex. Highly recommended and I promise I'm not an agent!!
It's a will plug (so not as big a hole in the insulation required) but has a steel reinforced core.
I don't have a link but I'm pretty sure if you just Google the product I said they'll appear.
Maybe they would supply you some stuff to do a video as I think they are a relatively new setup and you seem switched in enough 😌
Good example in this video though 👍👌
Corefix are great for dot and dabbed walls, but won't work on insulated walls like the one in the demo.
I've used them a couple of times- czcams.com/video/7xLhIPoO5gQ/video.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for the reply. Very helpful video.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comments 👍
I used off cuts of 15mm copper cut to size for each hole. Holes are much smaller in diameter if you’re needing to hide them behind a bracket of some sort.
Thanks for the comment 👍
wonders never cease
Thanks, looks like I will be buying a cordless reciprocating saw after all. thanks for replying
+scott mclean The cordless reciprocating saw is one of my favourite tools and is a real time saver!Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the great video. i'm planning to build my house using ICF. do you have any experience with method? do you have insights?
+Niskov Sorry, I don't have a clue about ICF
Hi C. would this work for fixing an ODB3 flat roof with external insulation, meaning the insulation sheet typically 25 mm is between the joists and the ODB3 so you have to drill through the insulation.
Insulation seems to make everything a lot more hassle! Nice video
+Aman A
Absolutely.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great Idea, beats cutting out the plasterboard and fixing a batten to the wall.
+Michael Tricker
Yes, a few people have asked recently about fixing through insulation so these should work well.
Thanks for the comment
Nice video as usual. I have never seen any of those plugs before. I just wonder how much torque those plugs can handle before breaking into pieces. Did I just give you an idea for another video? ;-) Have a nice Easter.
+Rui Nunes
Thanks, they should be able to take the pressure from most screws/items being fixed.
I have so many videos to edit and upload that I'm never going to catch up LOL
Happy Easter and thanks for the comment
Thanks for the tip. When you drilled out the plasterboard and insulation with the holesaw and you made a pilot into the block won't that make the holesaw and pilot bit (which I assume is an hss) blunt? tks
+Lee W Yes, it will eventually dull the pilot bit, so best to use an old one- unless you are good at sharpening drill bits.Thanks for the comment
plus most hole saws allow you to change the bit, so you could just use a masonary bit?
I have I think that is 100mm insulation on the outside of my 1920 house, do you think this or any other way, driving us nuts as want to fix stuff on outside that is heavy ish. Thanks and love all your videos. Cheers.
I have never done this before, but this might help-
hardhouseblog.wordpress.com/tag/external-wall-insulation/
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, helping me work out how to get around my issue. Could a 160mm wallplug and screw do the same job?
It depends what you are fixing.
The issue is, that some items are pulled tightly to the wall, that can compress the insulation, making the item go loose.
@@ultimatehandyman it's a Ring floodlight camera only about 1.5kg. any advice on what would be the best option?
@@sirtajvirdee5150 the 160mm wall plugs and screws should be fine for that 👍
Interesting video. I see a number of people have mentioned rigifix. Why would you not use rigifix in this situation? Thanks.
Rigifix are designed for dot and dab walls, not insulated dot and dab walls. If the insulation is thin, like insulated plasterboard you might get away with using Rigifix.
very clever idea!
+TomTheBricki Thanks Tom ;-)
Quick question, would insulation be that tight against the brick and plaster board?? i was told there should be a gap to prevent moisture transfer?
+Graham Reid (Grizzle)
It depends what type of insulation it is and how it's fixed. I do know someone that used loft insulation, which was held between the studs using netting. You can get some insulated plasterboard that is 40mm thick, if that is direct bonded to the bricks/block then you could end up with a small gap- which is why the space plugs would be perfect.
This has probably been answered already, but is this the best method to use for installing kitchen wall cupboards to insulation backed plasterboard? Or would it be easier to screw in 100x22 timbers to the wall and then fixing brackets to that?
I'm assuming that the wall behind the plasterboard is a solid wall?
It depends on the thickness of the insulation, sometimes you can use something like the corefix fixings- czcams.com/video/7xLhIPoO5gQ/video.html
But some kitchen cabinets use brackets with the holes close together, so the best option might be to use the timbers 👍
Hey this is great stuff - I’m converting my garage into an office but I have one problem! Behind the insulation board there’s just dead space for about 30mm until the breeze block. Any ideas ?
You could get some steel conduit and cut that to the correct length, then use long screws, perhaps?
Conduit is easy to cut with the correct cutter- czcams.com/video/zzK76BSQRt8/video.html
Cut out the area you want to screw into and attach backing board. Replaster over if required
When doing internal insulation backed plasterboard, Is there a recommended method of re-fitting electrical sockets ?
The cabling has to come through the PIR & plasterboard. If the PIR has its foil vapour barrier, cabling will break this, then how to avoid or minimise risk of internal condensation between foil insulation & wall for the cabling ?
I’m not sure about that, sorry.
I’ve only ever installed sockets on walls that have had 15mm of insulation bonded to the plasterboard, without a vapour barrier 🤔
Good video! Would all external walls in the UK require these fixings then?
+Spudgun88 No, only if they have insulation between the plasterboard and the walls.Most walls in the UK don't have insulation between the plasterboard and the wall, but when you come across it you often struggle to get a suitable fixing. Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman - Ok great, thanks!
only walls with Internal Wall Insulation. (IE: Solid Brick Walls). Proper stud walls should have regular studwork to screw to. If insulated internally you try to install full sheets of plasterboard with minimal studwork to prevent thermal bridging - and therefore studwork is need impossible to find - and sometimes non existent. (sometimes people just put studs to create an airgap with plasterboard/insulation (IE celotex) screwed to this battens (which are 50mm+ below the surface of the wall.
you could use rigifix dryline fixings also
+Aaron Rothwell
Rigifix are good, but not when there is so much insulation. You can get some insulated plasterboard now that is 90mm thick.
Thanks for the comment
Hi can you use anchor bolts?
Want to fit awning on insulated wall do I cut the insulation, fit plank flush with insulation and then drill awning brackets through wood using anchor bolts in breeze block?
Externally insulated walls are a pain in the backside.
This might help- hardhouseblog.wordpress.com/tag/external-wall-insulation/
Can you do the same the other where you want to fix something on the outside of the wall where the insulation is? Is the same process minus the plasterboard?
I don’t see why not, just make sure you use external grade screw though 👍
What would you use for a curtain rail through insulated boards (38mm thermaline) where a 30mm fixing would show past the edges of the rail wall fittings? The boards are dabbed to the wall and also screw and plugged in places as secondary fixings. Do you think something like Core fix fittings would be suitable?
I think corefix are only recommended where the gap behind the plasterboard is 25mm or less.
What I normally do is fix a piece of timber, such as 4-inch bull-nosed skirting board (painted white)above the window, then screw the curtain rail to the skirting board. Because of the size of the curtain rail fixings, it is often impossible to fix them to dot and dabbed walls.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Cheers mate. Used grip-its in the end (15mm ones). Bought the drill bit for use with insulated boards. You set the depth and it basically cuts a groove where the little pop out "wings" go, so you're only compressing against plasterboard when you're tightening up. They fitted perfectly behind the curtain pole brackets.
Isn't there supposed to be a moisture barrier on the inside of the insulation? I've always wondered whether drilling holes through the insulation could lead to moisture problem when warm humid air from inside the room gets to the cold masonry on the other side of the insulation layer.
Not sure, I've not come across a house with a vapour barrier yet!
Can you use these for wall cabinets for this type of wall?
Yes, it should work, providing you use decent fixings.
Thanks for the comment
So the orange plug is just acting as a guide for the screw? The foam insulation that you cut out with the holesaw should do the same thing right?
The space plug (orange thing) prevents the screw from compressing the insulation when the screw is tightened.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Is the required hole saw 30mm or 38mm? The audio sounds like 30mm but the video shows 38mm.
It's 30mm
The captions on this video are auto-generated (I'm trying to manually change them all, but it's very time consuming)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Clever spacer trick
Thanks 👍
Great video and a very useful looking product, would these be strong enough to hold a heavy shelf in a insulated wall? (20kg) thanks
They should be, but to be 100% certain you could cut some metal pipe to the correct length and use that (steel would be strongest, but copper might do)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman.
Thanks for the reply, thanks to your videos I’ve now identified that the block behind the insulation is a thermalite block so I’m stuck again. Do you know if the plastic plugs for thermalite are strong enough? Thanks again
@@themechanicaladvantage3697 Dewalt Gasbeton are designed for Thermalite, I would use those- czcams.com/video/YwAMQcbJS0U/video.html
now that's improvisation. reminds me of the a-team
+TheJeremyevans
Ha Ha, I used to love the A team ;-)
Thanks for the comment
how do you get the 2nd fixing
as the bearer is on the wall
Sorry, I am not sure what you mean?
Once you've got the first one on, and levelled, your item (not so important for kitchen kitchen wall units etc which use levelling hangers - but important for open shelves etc) you spot the holes through to mark the plasterboard. Once you have the holes spotted, remove the screw, and repeat steps, before actual fitting... - Hope that helps.
are these available in the states? I've never seen them. then again I've never looked for them either. good video as usual.
+cory0814
I have just asked and they have said that they will ship to the US if you send them an email via their website- www.space-plug.com/
Thanks for the comment
Hy, do you know if a metal jig saw blade will cut through nails in pallets?
+scott mclean
Yes it will, but it will be really slow at cutting the wood as the teeth are so small.
use an OLD chisel to part the boards before cutting. and don't cheap out on metal blades. I use my metal blades and jigsaw all the time - if I cant be arsed to dig to the back of the shed for the angle grinder ;)
How can you fix to an externally insulated wall items such as gutter downpipes, security lights, alarm bellboxes?
I'm not familiar with externally insulated walls, but perhaps you could use a piece of rustproof metal pipe to stand the item from the wall and use long screws?
Would something like a Fischer plasterboard anchor work?
It would work for fixing to the plasterboard only, but this video is for when you want to fix to the solid wall.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman I was thinking about if you wanted to fix something to insulated plasterboard and wondered if the "umbrella" would be able to open up in the insulation.
Why would this not work without the spacer? As long is you can get the fixing into the blockwork won't it be solid? I'm not trying to call anyone out, I just don't get it.
Is it more applicable if the thing you're fixing is smaller and doesn't have much to brace against when you screw it on?
Without the spacer you could not pull the item that you are fixing tight to the wall, as it would compress the insulation which would result in a weak fixing.
Thanks for the comment
awesome quick reply on a 1yr+ old vid. Thanks!
You are welcome ;-)
So what do you do when the insulation is 25cm wide and you need to support 20kg+wind?
You could try adjustable kitchen unit legs?
Battens etc... - Hopefully before insulating, people would consider what heavy items need fitting. When I came to my kitchen refit (partially insulated internally) I had to change my plans from wall units to tallboy style (floor to wall) as the weight i intended to install. The other option was to remove insulation and batten it out properly before using expanding foam to fix the insulation and VCL (something this video doesn't seem to consider...) and then replaster skim.
I dont think kitchen legs would take the sidewards (downwards on the wall but the legs would be installed sidewards) pressure... Remember that the spacer needs to keep the screw horizontal as well as stopping the item compressing the plasterboard and insulation.
What about insulated internal walls?
Or a cut and glued timber dowel, no?
Yes, you can do that, if you like 👍
into concrete over here for things like i think you are talking about, we use these www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-3-8-in-x-5-in-Kwik-Bolt-3-Long-Thread-Carbon-Steel-Expansion-Anchors-4-Pack-3512304/204993009 and then attach all sorts of things. do you not have these in the uk
+George Gardinier
Yes George we have them in the UK, but not many buildings are made from concrete over here. I made a video on these a few years back- czcams.com/video/hJg0xVb3eAg/video.html
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Good video, however, I think you put the space plug the wrong way around...the small hole is supposed to go against the wall plug to stop the wall plug from coming back out the hole... :)
+Richard Taylor Thanks Richard, I guess it would be better with the space plug the other way but to be honest if your plugs are being pulled out from the holes the hole is either too big in diameter, the plug is too small or the screw is too small in diameter. Thanks for the comment ;-)
but don't forget that the item being installed will be having extra leverage added to it. Richard is correct that the plugs are the wrong way around.
why can't you just drill and plug it looks like a lot of hassle to me 4 holes 4 plugs job done surly? maybe try that in another video I would be interested to see if that works
+jay denniss The screws will pull whatever you are fixing to the wall, causing the screws to loosen eventually.Thanks for the comment
you have to consider the weight you are installing. For my kitchen towel holder I just used normal plasterboard screws and plugs For shelves / hooks etc you have to consider the cost/benefit/risk scenario of somebody hanging a 30kg bag of onions etc to it and ripping the plasterboard apart - fancy fixing the damage?
A job done cheap often needs repairing.
what about how to fix to a plastered over breeze block wall?
+paul1962uk
It depends where you drill into. If you drill into the solid section you can use wall plugs, concrete screws etc. For the hollow section you can use Snap toggles. czcams.com/video/tAIUublenMw/video.html
Modern dilemma
Those are long screws!
+Aman A
I have some that are two feet long LOL
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman All I would say is that if I was using such long screws I would prefer them to have a 6 sided hexagonal head, rather than a "posi" head
+Aman A
Absolutely. The two foot long ones were Torx drive and were used when making this sand pit-
czcams.com/video/M-r8AA-bpE4/video.html
Thanks for the comments
+Aman A I guess Chez would agree seeing as the screw has a hex head on it 😃
+loadsabeeruk was hard to see in video what head it was, so just thought I'd point it out!
Lol what a palaver
😂
Use glue dude!
🤔