I did a 50mm lift on my 105 cruiser using Dobinson, rides pretty good, but make sure your left and right rear springs are marked correct, mine weren't so my drivers rear sits 10mm lower, thanks to the cowboy who installed it for not checking it properly
I snapped one of those upper shock mount bolts. It was super fun getting the last bit out. Luckily my brackets were stamped as well. Oh my God, dude! You're hilarious with the commentary.
As usual, all your videos are really interesting and full of important information. How much was it lifted? also, when do you need longer brackets for the sway bar links (droop)? Thanks!
Thanks I’m going to check my upper and lower trailing arm bushes again as I tightened the bolts before letting the rear down on the ground 🤨 at 22:25 you mentioned Thanks 🙏
I mentioned on your live show a few weeks ago I had a weird nudge in my rear we could have found it as lots of other things were looked at and not the bushings because they were recently replaced
I love the way you do and explain things ... I am curious what is keeping the axel from dropping to the floor when all the shocks and control arms are all removed
What are you doing with the ABS wires that are mounted on the upper control arms with the new adjustable ones, are you just zip tieing them to the new arms?
Hello there nice job explaining all the steps. Can you or someone else in the comments please let me know the torque specification for the rear upper and lower arm screws. I did not see you mention it on the video.
When you get in to the taller lift ranges you get beyond the angles that the drive line is happy with. So adjustable control arms to dial the pinion angle back in. And adjustable panhard bars to get the axle back centered.
HI, great vids. You said you used trig to calculate new panhard length before install. From what points did you measure? Just use new height with original base to get hyp?
@@OTRAMM Hi. Could you elaborate a bit please? I am going to install 2" on my 1991 GXL (which is already factory higher suspension) and not sure how to count that panhard rod. THX ;)
@@ondrejmarko01 I used the pythagorean theorem . I measured the stock panhard length and used an arbitrary length for the vertical (like 5"). you can use A squared plus B squared equals C squared (C is the stock panhard length. to calculate a horizontal length. Now take your lift height and add it to whatever random amount you used for vertical (so a 2" lift would change the 5" to 7") Square that, add the square of the number you calculated as your horizontal and the square root the sum and that should give you a rough length for the panhard. There's probably an easier way but math wasn't my strong point. :)
Wouldn't the lowers line up if you just jack the body up until they do? Better than trying to man handle it into position and risking graunching up the threads on the bolts.
Morning Where did you order your slinky springs from? I can't find anyone online to order from. No caster correction under 2" correct? Should I still look at away bars or other components for this small lift,? I'm looking at the 50mm slinky springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks. Thanks
You can kind of see them between the frame and body from the wheel well so I spray some from there. You can also get a decent shot from underneath the truck between the frame and body. I just hose everything down 😁
I read on the forums that there is a bolt on the top that needs to be removed? They even mention drilling a big hole in the sheet metal above the shock to access this bolt. So basically just remove the 2 shock mount bolts and the shock can be removed correct? Thanks for all the videos!
Thank you so much for your excellent videos. Wouldve never made it through a front axle rebuild without your video.
Otramm videos by far the best you can find !
No one mentions the damn spider while he is taking off those upper shock mounts!!
I did a 50mm lift on my 105 cruiser using Dobinson, rides pretty good, but make sure your left and right rear springs are marked correct, mine weren't so my drivers rear sits 10mm lower, thanks to the cowboy who installed it for not checking it properly
I snapped one of those upper shock mount bolts. It was super fun getting the last bit out. Luckily my brackets were stamped as well. Oh my God, dude! You're hilarious with the commentary.
That was such an excruciating moment.......to watch him ignore and not remove the dead spider at all.
For the lower control arms….couldnt you have jacked up the rear of the cruiser and dropped the axle slightly for the install? Great video.
As usual, all your videos are really interesting and full of important information. How much was it lifted? also, when do you need longer brackets for the sway bar links (droop)? Thanks!
Great video👍🏻
Soy un seguidor de tus vídeos y espero que un día lo puedas traducirlo en español, lo vemos desde República Dominicana.
Thanks I’m going to check my upper and lower trailing arm bushes again as I tightened the bolts before letting the rear down on the ground 🤨 at 22:25 you mentioned
Thanks 🙏
I mentioned on your live show a few weeks ago I had a weird nudge in my rear we could have found it as lots of other things were looked at and not the bushings because they were recently replaced
Videos are very informative. Great content and information.
How to join your patreon?
Do you have email or utilize your Patreon.
Email is otramm@otramm.com. we get so many emails it's hard to answer all of them while still running the shop though.
Thanks I just sent an email to the address you provided.
Thank you for sharing
About to do mine in a couple months...but am going with a dobinsons factory kit
I love the way you do and explain things ... I am curious what is keeping the axel from dropping to the floor when all the shocks and control arms are all removed
he's using a transmission jack.
What are you doing with the ABS wires that are mounted on the upper control arms with the new adjustable ones, are you just zip tieing them to the new arms?
I just got my Lexus LX 450. I'm wanting to go Iceland artic style build.
Hello there nice job explaining all the steps. Can you or someone else in the comments please let me know the torque specification for the rear upper and lower arm screws. I did not see you mention it on the video.
FSM says 130 ft/lbs for the control arm bolts/nuts and 180 ft/lbs for the pan hard bar.
I was cheering lift the truck up so you wouldnt struggle with the rear trailing arm so much. LOL
Editing that video is what made me realize how out of shape I was and got me started running 😂
@@OTRAMM that's great running is a great way to stay in shape make sure you stretch and drink lots of water also buddy.
Dammm Spider!!!
Good job , can I asks why are adjustable rods are needed ? I'm familiar with OME lift's. Thanks.
When you get in to the taller lift ranges you get beyond the angles that the drive line is happy with. So adjustable control arms to dial the pinion angle back in. And adjustable panhard bars to get the axle back centered.
HI, great vids. You said you used trig to calculate new panhard length before install. From what points did you measure? Just use new height with original base to get hyp?
Yep, I used the original hyp, and lift height difference to get the new hyp.
@@OTRAMM Hi. Could you elaborate a bit please? I am going to install 2" on my 1991 GXL (which is already factory higher suspension) and not sure how to count that panhard rod. THX ;)
@@ondrejmarko01 I used the pythagorean theorem . I measured the stock panhard length and used an arbitrary length for the vertical (like 5"). you can use A squared plus B squared equals C squared (C is the stock panhard length. to calculate a horizontal length. Now take your lift height and add it to whatever random amount you used for vertical (so a 2" lift would change the 5" to 7") Square that, add the square of the number you calculated as your horizontal and the square root the sum and that should give you a rough length for the panhard. There's probably an easier way but math wasn't my strong point. :)
Looks like you had eight legged company underneath the truck.
I didn't even notice the spider was there until I went to edit the video!
Which slinky kit did you go with?
I'm on the fence between OME, Dobinson, and Slinky in around a 2"lift
I don't know what the specs we're on it. The customer brought it in with some other work.
OTRAMM
These Slinky kit s looks like its from 4xoaus in Australia.
here‘s the link:
4xoaus.com.au/auto-craft/
Hey mate grate vid but how was your diff held up as you had the shocks removed and I couldn’t see anything holding it up?
The suspension links are holding everything in place.
Wouldn't the lowers line up if you just jack the body up until they do? Better than trying to man handle it into position and risking graunching up the threads on the bolts.
The new rears are longer than stock so things have to shift a bit to get them in.
Morning
Where did you order your slinky springs from? I can't find anyone online to order from.
No caster correction under 2" correct? Should I still look at away bars or other components for this small lift,?
I'm looking at the 50mm slinky springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks.
Thanks
I didn't actually order this one. My customer already had the parts. I think they came from Endless Horizon Outfitters.
How big of a lift is this? Cheers
I think around 3"
You put the upper arm bolt in the opposite direction you remove it
Yes, to make it easier to change in the future.
Is there a good location to get penetrating oil into the upper shock bolts?
You can kind of see them between the frame and body from the wheel well so I spray some from there. You can also get a decent shot from underneath the truck between the frame and body. I just hose everything down 😁
Who needs a gym 🏋️♂️ 💪, just be a mechanic...
can you do this without a lifting the vehicle?
No
You can do it without a 2 post lift, but you'll need at least a jack and some tall Jack stands.
So you don’t know what size lift this is?
I didn't order it. My guess is it's around 3".
My Crash would be my 14 year old daughter and she lacks all manner of strength to push anything.
How did you remove the upper strut bolt? From inside the cargo area?
5:20
I read on the forums that there is a bolt on the top that needs to be removed? They even mention drilling a big hole in the sheet metal above the shock to access this bolt. So basically just remove the 2 shock mount bolts and the shock can be removed correct? Thanks for all the videos!
@@richardkwon6697 when you pull the two bolts the shock plate comes out with the shock. Then you just swap it to the new shock.
What kind of penetrating oil do you recommend?
My current favorite is Freeall from gasoilia. We also keep Kroil around as a back up.
What are the brand on these coils . I need it for my Toyota Landcruiser from 1994? Thanks
They're Slinky coils. I think Endless Horizon Outfitters is the current importer of them.
Thanks so much!!!
Was size lift was this?
How did you do your geometry? Or Plum bob?
I used trig to go from the lift height to the new bar length. That'll get you close. Fine tuned with a plumb bob.
@@OTRAMMcan you explain it like I’m 5 as what measurements to use for the trig?