Plastic or Steel Body Armor? Everything You Need to Know.
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
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Was hoping to see a shooting comparison between the steel and poly in this video
Hes got a video of shooting ceramic, steel, and poly armor to the point of failure
2:12 "I got up [and] strapped on my [plate carrier and] just wore it around for an hour and a half." I felt immediately accepted and that I was no longer alone. Right in the feels.
Lol I have soft And plates in Separate carriers. I feel Extremely safe but can Only use a pistol and am extremely immobile!😢😅
@@Blap552 I run a 3.5 pound III+ in the front and .5 pound IIIA rigid plate in the back of my carrier.
Decent enough protection while not being much of anything weight-wise.
I can't wait until we get polyethylene armor that looks like phase 2 clone trooper armor.
Yes yes yes yes YES... sign me up.
Oooh yeah. Also gives us an excuse to miss a lot lol.
@@ivannamendez8298 What are you talking about Republic Clone Troopers were the best trained soldiers in the galaxy. Bred from the earliest stages of infancy to fulfil their assigned roles within the Grand Army of the Republic. Each clone had at least 10 years of training and simulation training (thanks to the accelerated aging).
The ones that have a reputation for bad aim are the imperial stormtroppers, who are recruits, not clones. Although this reputation is unwarranted because they literally explain in the movie that they were missing on purpose so Han and the others could escape to Hoth and they could follow them there and find the Rebel base.
So in reality they don't have bad aim either.
EDIT: Sorry I'm a Star Wars nerd and I got triggered lol.
@@the-real-zpero that intentional misses make them really good shots
I want Mandalorian Commando Armor or Old Republic armor in Lw Polyethylene layering a iiia body glove.....maybe even some lightweight alloy centered over hdpe on the spots likeliest to get hit. I say that yet all my shit is lw currently for mobility. would be cool to see. at 170lbs the average 30% of bodyweight kit "limit" doesn't leave but 15-18lbs for armor when adding general musette/pack, gunbelt and a rifle with support items :(. Lifting and lifting but cant seem to gain weight back.
South African armed responder here. I wear armor 12 hours a day every day. Have been involved in and seen many many shooting incidents of all kinds. From homemade pipe gun assasinations to heavy hunting rifle self defense shootings to full on small scale war like cash in transit shootouts and everything in between. The comfort factor of carrying less weight for similar or arguably better performance is a no brainer. Trust me a steel based vest will spend most of its time in the car boot. Mobility is also way better with lighter Armour especially when scaling fences etc regularly. Steel also seems to heat up and retain body heat more. A factor in hot climates. Amd once toluose steel ates get some sun on them forget about it. I have also seen a colleague drowned because of steel plates. Furthermore the injuries sustained from bullet fragmentation off of steel is simply catastrophic. And that is with all types of liners. It simply does not work reliably. Remember most tests have bullets hitting at close to 90°. Omqgine a bullet hitting at an angle, fragmenting and then going on throug a limb. Mincemeat is putting bit mildly.I would rather get shot through and through instead in some instances. Best mix for my purposes is ceramic over hdpe with kevlar behind that.
this is most probably the best Input from a user of body armor that I've read since I keep revolving my mind around wether to buy PE/UHMPWE or AR500 steel plates. there's a Swedish company that sells spall covers, but yeah. your Input is invaluable. thank you, good luck and stay safe!
While I can't speak to the adhesives used in it's assembly, the polyethylene core of that body armor won't degrade unless you're storing it in direct sunlight. HDPE is a very stable and chemically resistant plastic.
But it will seriously degrade from taking rounds of any kind or size ! I am inconcerned about the sun light at all and veryu concerned about not getting shot, even once. There is not yet an actaul replacement for steel and yes it is very heavy. Oh well !
As I see it it all depends on the threats you may encounter if known ?
thank you for your input!
you need to hop down the DIY body armor rabbit hole my guy
The buoyancy discussion reminded me of my Fire Acadamey training course where we were supposed to, while wearing a full set of turnouts and a steel training tank/rig, "use our helmet to scoop an air bubble under the surface and place it between your legs and sit on it for flotation...". It worked less well then I imagined when they gave us the instructions LOL. Great content as always mate. Love the channel. Best to you and yours.
The idea of balancing on a helmet bubble in swimming trunks for 5 mins sounds exhausting, much less in full gear.
so you arent old enough to remember the pants sailors wore on the WW1 and 2 ships? the bell bottoms were huge and supposed to hold air if you fell overboard.
@@Davidautofullthey probably did if you were able to take them off and tie them like they taught us in the Army
After watching so many vso vids trying to determine what plate and carrier setup I found myself confused as to what I should go for. While unlikely as hell there are scenarios where 1 setup can be detrimental but that same setup might be perfect for this other scenario. So I've decided to suck it up and invest money into no less than a couple. 1 down, working on the other and am thankful for this channel and the useful info it brings.
Spalling is metal shooting off from the other side of the impacted area. More accurately that coating is anti splatter material.
The use of the world spalling when it comes to body armor has been a personal pet peeve of mine, here and on most youtube channels.
Appreciate the info you provide here.
I'll have to go check out your code for some poly plates! I'm loving the hrt carrier!
Finally found ya. Remember Dallas afew years back? Yeah. You still owe me $20 for arm wrestlin loss. Dont make me call your mom. Pay up
😁🤣😂👍🇺🇸🖖
Great video!!!!!!!
Very informative for someone who is looking for a body armor setup (like myself).
Good info! Thanks Curt!
Thank you for the video man because I just picked up the steel w/spall coating and its awesome bro . Thank you again!!!!
Very valid points al the way through!
For Plates I went with Midwest Armor and Officer Survival Solutions, good high quality plates. Carriers I went Velocity Systems as well as Midwest Armor, I also recently got one from First Spear.
Ijust got my steel 550 plates from Caliber Armor fall sale at 112 each which is awesome and they both came very fast.
Great job as always VSO love the show 👍👍👍👍👍
“I WHIIIISH I WOULDA HAD THIS WHEN I WAS WORKING THE ROAD”
scott is a national treasure
@@trashcompactorYT lmaoo i guess
I appreciate the vid, man.
Both my Veritas and Veritas Lite plate carriers from AR500 Armor does accommodate thicker plates, such as ceramic or polyethylene plates.
I fit hesco l210s in my varitas
Buy one that does? Lol
I’m going to guess that is the plate carrier manufacturer that he didn’t name. Lol
"But what if he shot you in the face?" Lloyd Christmas
“Well that’s a chance we were willing to take.”
@@GGKevin I didn't get a gun. Did you get a gun?
dont worry you will not feel a thing . game over.
That's where devtac comes in to play
I really enjoyed your video very very informative, you just helped me make some decisions when I buy my body armor, thank you
Don’t forget we have discount codes, and those generate a small commission back to VSO
I'd be interested in seeing how the coating on my shellback ar1000 plate does, but I'm not willing to test that yet. But I keep gaurddog spall covers on my plates. Not to mention they're also only 6lbs a plate.
Good video here. Solid info
Fwiw my Veritas carrier from AR500 holds my Hesco level IVs fine.
I would really love to see you test a level 4 ceramic plate on a high caliber
PROBABLY THE MOST HONEST REVIEW, AND TO WHAT MATTERS…. 👍
Glad you did this video....
Do you like RMA's 1155 plates?
very informative, great video
I think both'll last a long time, unless chemicals that-I dunno degrade overtime were used with the "plastic" body armor, maybe it'll react differently in humid areas, dry areas etc? Idk.
So which one would be best for security guard
I bought old Italian surplus poly plates and shot a 556 55grain a 308 150 grain and 45-70 460 grain at 1700fps all in a triangle about 2 or 3 inches apart and stopped all three
I "use" a 4 layer panel of kevlar over my build-up coated CATI steel armor, do you think that is sufficient for projectile fragmentation? I say "use" because I just wear it and luckily haven't found a need for it. . . . . yet..
love your channel
I have purchased the steel caliber plates. I noticed the curves are quite aggressive so I wonder how well it would work against spalling if you flipped the plates. Use the curve to deflect the spalling more. That would make for an interesting video I think. Great customer service also.
Most steel plates have coating on them to reduce spalling so flipping it around would have the steel in the front rather than the coating so spalling would be a huge issue if you choose to do that.
Throw them in the trash or use them as targets. Steel armor will get you killed.
@@bensmith9164 getting shot in the shoulder, exposed stomach or any other unprotected area will also get you killed. the coverage area of the vast majority of these plates is hilarious. But touching on Steel vs others, steel is the only single layer product tested. If you want to prevent fragments, cover the steel in Kevlar or similar materials. It's not often you see ceramic armors tested with multi hits in the same area.
@@FM4AMGV good luck to you I guess.
@Ben Smith You're quite the keyboard warrior arent ya
Dumb question can you fit the poly in front of the steel plate and wear it as double protection? I understand it would weigh more but wouldn't it help with the deformity of the poly plate after being shot several times
I like the comparison. I chose steel over ceramic or poly for the price and my use. I only wear my plate carrier once in a while and not for more than a few hours. So for me I don't find the extra weight too much. For long term wear or specific mission use, I can see the extra investment in poly plates too save on weight. I think for most people who don't wear plate carriers for work or who aren't military, it's all preference at that point.
I hope you like eating shrapnel.
For an extra hundred or so you can go with level 4 ceramic and not deal with spalling
@@SkintSNIPER262 Ahh... so you didn't watch the video or any video on anybody testing these plates. Maybe watch them and you will be surprised at who was eating shrapnel and who wasn't.
Body armor needs to comform to your contors. Center mass protection is great but they side profile wounds are deadlier.
A form of scalemail ballistic armour protection should offer protection while keeping maneuverability.
Consult your local sci fi shooter for armor ideas
Great comparison. Gonna go with the poly armor!
Just for curiosity sake is the pouch in your vest big enough to put both plates in at the same time, both the steel and the other plate
Have you ever done a video on safe Life vests they are unbelievable?
Just bought some man thanks
It’s basically plate vs mail
Can you double plate the "Poly Pocket"?
i got mine from that company. love everything about it
Hey VSO, Actually you only need one plate on the front chest. If you get shot in the back the front plate will still stop the round as it passes through. LOL Great info for the plate buyer.
What about CONDOR MOPC? I know- inexpensive but is it any good?
Expiration dates on armor are there more for insurance purposes than anything else. Secondly, company's can make alot more money by selling more products if they put an expiration date on it.
What kind of plate carrier do you have in this video
what levle plates do you use? do you choose better protection or weight-savings?
Find what your likely to be going against. Factor in typical enemy combatant ammunition and rate your plate needs based on that. But. I personally decided to go with level 4 hesco plates they weigh about 5lbs per plate. But they aren’t cheap. Well worth it.
Regarding warranty it's not just the steel they are covering, the anti-spall and outer coating that holds it all together are part of the equation. Depending on what conditions it is exposed to some things can accelerate the natural breakdown of polymers or the other chemicals that make up the non-steel components of both plates. UV light is known to be a problem for polymers but military testing of body armor includes both extreme temperature testing and chemical immersion testing including (but not limited to) gasoline, motor oil, salt water with an extremely high salt content, and weapon lubricant. The chemical testing may include extended soaks measured in hours or days. I have no doubt that Caliber is only putting 5 years so that if someone's plates accidentally spent months soaking in something in someone's basement they might be able to get out of dealing with an issue they didn't anticipate. In such a case with the steel once the outer layers are gone and the steel is exposed rust is also now a potential issue.
Does anyone make a poly plate with a steel core? If the poly were sealed on the edges, it would hold up longer than a coating, but I've not seen it yet.
That would kind of negate the whole advantage of poly which is weight.
It's not too often that I come across someone that has common sense. Squared away - Sub'd👍
Im working on some armor designs trying to find the hardest and strongest workable materials and combinations of materials i can. So far im thinkin graphene. Only thing known of with more hardness in the known universe is the crystaline crust of a dead stars core. Its practically godlike potential for armor. Im thinking aluminum oxide or aluminum oxynitride over a graphene backwr would be a good lighteight option. It doesnt exist yet but I'd like it too. A full suit of that inspired by both samurai armor systems and german gothic armor systems of old. Over an exoskeleton to help mitigate the felt weight of cours either powered, actuated, or some combination of both.
I was going to buy a set of Steel plates but I don't feel like humping around an additional 26 lb. Add on all the gear you would normally have. Whatever vest and loadout, that's going to be around 30 to 40 lbs, then your ruck another 40 lbs. You're over 100 lbs real quick real easy. I didn't even add in your weapon or sidearm. I've looked into modifications to an M81 flack jacket (7 to 10 lbs) they are level 3A rated, with some modifications you could bump it up to 3+ or 3 depending on the materials used. It would also be alot more cost effective.
Not to mention you get a lot more ballistic coverage area.
CZcamsr: don’t buy steel, it’s too heavy and it’s not level 4
Me: mkay makes sense
Same youtuber: don’t buy ceramic it can’t stop more than a few rounds
Me: oh okay yeah that makes sense
Me:
So wait which one do I get?
Light And Strong whichever it is. Keep asking guys,you definitely don't want to be Weighed down too much. Then Train And Work out,Cardio too. Confident and Lightfooted!!🫡🇺🇸
thickness steel ?
Are either of these plates NIJ certified or are they NIJ "tested" by someone independent?
As far as I know no they arnt
Why are you calling it plastic? Is it different than ceramic? also, how would plastic (ceramic) respond to hit just after being submerged in water? Would being wet reduce it's effectiveness?
I love my poly plates😍, steel is what i give my friends get when shtf
Buoyancy is an interesting factor i didnt consider
If it does keep your head above water thats a big plus imo
You forgot to mention that the more expensive one is also NIJ certified.
Hmm 😂 how do you collect that warranty in the event of a failure?
What type of lifting do you do? Powerlifting or weightlifting?
Super form concentrated weight training focusing on compound movements
@@VSO_Gun_Channel nerd.
Hey boss, like yourself and Tactical Bacon I am a tall very broad-shouldered brother. what are some plate carriers that you would suggest?
Velocity Systems has great XL carriers with XL Cummerbunds, Midwest Armor is great too, they have lots of big guys sizes and they both have great customer service. I would hit them up and see what you like.
UARM has four sizes of plates AND carriers. Not cheap though
Having a fucked-up back can be very expensive and very unpleasant. I say go lightweight if you can.
I run 3+ and 3+ soft and one trauma pad
Why don't they put a lip directing outwards on the top of the steel plate? Even a large weld bead on the edges? Something to direct blast at least from your neck if the coating fails.. How about you test it
If it was a flat plate that might work a little bit. With any type of curve? Nope. Trade offs
I agree I think the design of the plate as is, very solid but IMO a good switch these armor company’s should be doing is putting at least a quarter inch increased strength barrier on the outside edge. If you take a shot to the edge of the plate.. without reinforcement.. hope you bought a decent ifak.
I have both types and would say the AR 500 has longevity the polymer does not, or anythting other than steel. Yes they are heavy but you can train for the weight as it helps off set the weight tremendously
Remember once the poly takes a few rounds it is toast or worse and the entire purpose is to avoid getting shot for any reason. Therefore it would have to be replaced if you are not seriously wounded. So all of that defeats the orginal purpose. I use an early military intercetor carrier/vest because it has all the hook ups for gear and with no plates is level II protection. That woll stop all pistol rounds but how do we know there will only be postil rounds coming at you ? Well we simply have to use the best judgement we can muster up for every potentiality . It does not get any better than that. I prefer the steel
the price of Freedom is constant alertness and willingness to fight back.
our patriots defending Ukraine and fighting for Freedom.
many people joining territorial defense forces without any basic protective gear and body armor ...
is anyone willing to help with SAPI plates level 4 to protect people's lives???
How about a hybrid with some polyurethane and a layer of ceramic on top of it?
Those are becoming more common. That way they can easily stop 5.56 green tip which poly struggles with by itself.
We use to wear armor with something like a parachute rip cord on the upper chest. One pull, and the armor just melts off your body...Very useful for unexpected deep water submersion, being on fire from an IED, or treating a casuality...Most important part though is pulling your buddies after a "you got a spider on your plate" gag and watching him have to put a Rubiks cube back together hehe...Anyone know if they still make that kind?
Thats a design in the plate carrier itself and not the armor. Standard issue carriers in the Army are all 'quick release' where you yank on a pull tab the carrier falls off of you or a buddy. Just search quick release and you'll find plenty
@@danielbabcock7004 Wasn't sure if present day military still use that kind or not. I served when those designs were just coming into the Army
@@50StichesSteel i was 2013-2016, and keeping up with friends still serving and such, its generally the standard nowadays
@@danielbabcock7004 Awesome to hear it's still used..I was 05 to 2011
The UHMWPE model doesn't have a strike face per say. All of its layers of UHMWPE that when pressed together and autoclaved, essentially become it's "strike face/core/fragmentation containment. Bullet enters plastic, melts the plastic, then it rehardens and catches the bullet. Jacket fragments and other material that shed from the bullet get contained in the many layers.
A pure UHWMPE I would say is very robust. Falling on it, taking non ballistic threat strikes to it, will be fine. It's biggest determinant is heat. They supposedly don't like prolonged heat, and a lot of internet myth seems to imply if you leave it in your car trunk for quite some time, will cause the layers to delaminate. Likely a bit of truth to that, but a time here or there isn't going to kill a UHWMPE plate.
I think the biggest downside to pure UHMWPE plates is their inability to stop M855. They have the reverse problem of steel armor. PE is very good at stopping lead core speed such as M193, but hardened materials even at slower speeds present a problem. Steel on the other hand, can stop M855 and even M855A1 (under 3000 fps so SBR), but it has trouble with true spec M193 (typically over 3000 fps).
Hybrid (ceramic/pe) seem to offer a good compromise to being able to stop a wide threat profile, and in some cases, an NIJ Level IV Certified plate can be as cheap as the steel offering. Most of those are single curve however at that price point. They can still take a good beating (most good NIJ 06 will have a foam strike face protector, as well as a ring on the outer perimeter of the plate edge), but some care should be applied.
thats a great post.
if we could just have the best and the lightest and the cheapest combined.
i want to know what, added behind, will help UHMWPE stop the APs.
shelf life is for insurance reasons.. if you die using it after 5 years, their not liable.....
My only concern is what about the belly or sides or upper body with a plate like that and Half of you back also is exposed. most armor that I have been looking at is more of a feel good and not really protective
They aren’t really designed to do that.you have to be able to bend in the middle
The plates are meant from keeping you from dying until you can get medical attention. If you take a rifle round through the heart of major arteries you're not gonna make it. If you catch one in the gut, with proper first aid you can tough through that ride to the ER.
Full body coverage from rifle threats lead to less mobility
I'll be honest. AR500 (for what it is, using the proper coatings) was the cheapest lvl3 on the market (during their sales)
100% on the gigachad levels of fitness you need to perform in long duration applications with steel.
I didnt go with steel because of the price point... I went with steel because my kit is for SHTF and I'd rather have something with longevity over light weight... ceramics and shit like that are useless after a few rounds hitting it while steel can keep going... I dont ever plan on getting shot but if I somehow take 1 round then I want to be able to have a plate that wont need to be replaced
With God's help and my military training, I'll be fine with level 3 steel amor with anti spalling sleeve and trauma pad ! A Veteran.
Bearded man, "I work out 6 days a week"
Also Bearded man "My thin shouldies ouchy after an hour wearing my baby vest" 🤣🤣🤣
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Looks fine to me
After years, I ditched my plates. Would rather be lighter especially in the terrain in my area.
👍
How can they afford to sell the steal plate for $130? I just Googled the cost of 550 steel and it's going for $744.50/ton which works out to $0.37/pound so all said, I'm betting the coating probably costs more than the steel plate itself and that's even factoring in the cost of cutting and forming the plate.
so essentially 3$ for just the steel for a single plate, and then automation to form curves, spall layer, and logo. They probably make more money off a single plate than you think...
Gucci plates for comfort, economy plates for backup?
Shelf life is a big factor to me
There is a reason we use AR 500 steel for targets. Hoever, I don't need to be a walking tank . Let me survive a round or two, move to cover. In theatre, sure. Steel. Anywhere else,... PE
I like my ceramic plate 🤙
Steel with a bed liner sprayed on it. It better be cheep
In 20 years the steel plate will still stop bullets. But in 20 years I would NOT trust the anti-spall coating on the steel plate. Without spall protection, the steel would only be marginally better that the synthetic plate.
You can always buy a new anti-spall cover.
I'm just throwing mine in my backpack. I don't think I need a carrier.
Spalling is spalling; spatter is what your thinking of and testing here. ;)
Spatter is a spray of liquid deflecting off a surface. Spalling is fragmentation or the breaking into smaller piece from a larger piece.
You spall needs are so fucking dumb.
Let me guess, you cry when someone says clip instead of magazine?
FINALLY!!!! Lol I’ve been saying that shit about the term “spalling” for years yet everybody says I’m delusional haha THANK YOU!!! Atleast you and I were taught what the Webster’s dictionary is 🧐🥸😂👍🏼 I’m also glad to see you showed the INSANE price variation on the plates!! Atleast with steel you know you’ll be in better shape if you are dumb enough to take multiple shots in the same spot lol I do hate the bullshit 5 year nonsense!!! There’s no logical way either of these would degrade that fast haha thanks Curtis, the one thumbed man Lol temporarily!! Haha 😉👍🏼
I don’t think the price is insane, it’s just expensive. There is a difference
@@VSO_Gun_Channel Did not think that would be the response I got haha come on now man, $400 bucks for one plate! That if dropped incorrectly could be rendered useless!! Versus a $100 plate you could sled on and then take a round to the chest haha you don’t think the price is insane tho? What would insane in your terms? Lol the safelite $2000 dollar soft armor/rifle rated armor is expensive!! Yet that’s a whole other bag of worms but it’s top quality. Still insanely priced tho
@@VSO_Gun_Channel it catches rifle rounds and you can wear it all day comfortably. So about 1k for two of these and a vest. Worth every penny.
There's a reason why militaries don't use steel for personal body armor, granted its intent is for daily wear for many hours but its more than just weight.
No its absolutely weight. A soldier is already carrying quite a bit of weight and it is unnecessary to have a heavier plate when you can carry a lighter one with a higher expense.
@@dthompsont3796 If you can show me a steel plate that can stop Armor piercing rounds, let me know.
@@noneyabusiness8065 level IV steel armor is rated against 30 caliber armor piercing rounds. Anything else?🤦♂️
@@dthompsont3796 and who sells lvl 4 steel armor?
@@dthompsont3796 I'll just answer for you, no one sells lvl 4 steel armor plates. You need AR 600+ plates to defeat some armor piercing rounds, problem is AR 600+ is very prone to cracking because it is so hard it is very brittle; so putting even one curve in it can cause it to break, and a flat plate might survive one shot before breaking.
You wear armor while duck hunting?
Shelf life is main decider between the two for me
how could you possible know how long the coating will survive? it will NEVER last forever! maybe 20-40 years.
Every single video I have seen with plate carriers and how they handle spall is a slick carrier. How may people walk around in a slick carrier? I have mag pouches on mine and any rounds would have to go through them..and ruin them in the process..but how would that effect the spall? You want to do a real test shot a full kit and not just a carrier with plates.
I hate the misuse of the word spalling too, but I blame the body armor companies for starting the misuse of the word. Armor can spall, but bullets FRAGMENT. I also hate the misuse of the word smelting. It does not mean melting or casting metal. It means extracting metal from it's ore.
its*
Smelting could also mean the act of catching little fish. Lol