TLDW: Change some carbs around such as: rice or sweet potatoes/potatoes instead of pasta 20-25 grams of protein have enough leucine to trigger muscle recovery, want 30 gms of protein per meal Creatine provides quicker muscle recovery, a normal daily dose of 5 mgs per day, no need to do a creatine load for climbers Beta-alanine counters muscle fatigue Protein powder is a way to receive rich protein to ensure proper muscle recovery Collagen use 30 mins before training to help grow and recovery ligaments and tendons, a normal daily dose of 15 gms per day Glycine before bed improves quality of sleep and helps produce collagen, 5 to 15 gms nightly Tart cherry extract is a super antioxidant which can be used before bed to maximize recovery and improve sleep when not training hard MCT oil during fasted periods or in the morning to help reduce energy without feeling lethargic from low food
This video is unbelievably detailed and informative. While being not very entertaining (as one could tell from the number of views compared to other videos), it is directly helpful. Can't believe I just sat through the 50min video chat of two men and learned a ton :) Thank you very much for creating contents like this.
Thank you for posting this! Seems like a lot of dietary advice comes directly from climbers, so it’s nice to hear from someone who focuses on this for a living.
Fantastic information! Can you do another video with Tom about whether Keto is worth it and/or safe (pros and cons basically) for climbers? You touched on it in this video but more info would be great! Also, Tom suggests to take collagen daily in OJ but also says later that taking Vitamin C regularly can inhibit the body's adaptation to stressors. Are there only certain things this applies (that we currently are aware of) like NSAIDs and anti-oxidants?
Tom recommends having a certain amount of carbs for training. I've done keto before and I have to say it's not sustainable. Tom's strategy had great results for me and was far easier to maintain and follow. I'm not sure about second part of your question- I'll have to flag Tom or you can shoot him a question on Instagram @usefulcoach
When Tom said that there is no vegan source of collagen, I ran to grab the collagen supplement I take. It was vegan, but I was surprised to see that it's not actually a direct supplement of collagen, it's a lysine hydrochloride supplement which supposedly promotes the body's own manufacture of collagen. I'd be interested to know whether this can be useful in the same way as directly supplementing collagen. Any thoughts Andrew? I'd love to hear what Tom thinks about this as well! I'd also be interested to know whether there are synthetic collagen supplements. For example rennet is only naturally found in cows but these days most rennet comes from yeast genetically modified to turn into rennet. Can we do this with collagen?
@@AndrewMacFarlane I messaged Tom and they got back to me with a pretty comprehensive response! They said that lysine is part of the amino acid composition of the collagen protein, but the primary amino acids are glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. Proline is easily found in plant-based/whole foods, but they recommended supplementing glycine (which is synthesised so is vegan). They suggested 5g of glycine before bed and 5g in the morning, which I think you discussed in your video. I'm considering trying that.
Hey Andrew, in the video Tom mentions there are two downsides to creatine but then only says one of them: the extra muscle hydration. Any chance he told you what the second downside is?
Funny how the more we learn, the more, if we listen to our bodies, the less supplements we should take. I think the mindset of even the supplements are just food the better we will be. And don't forget sardines, the perfect food for protein, collagen, omega 3, calcium and low in mercury at 88 cents a can!
@@AndrewMacFarlane thanks for taking the time to respond. Have you continued with creatine each day? If so, I presume you've benefited in terms of enhanced performance?
Hey I noticed the guitar behind you. How did you manage to balance both activities? Everybody keeps saying that one hinders the other and I play guitar and started climbing very recently and it would hurt to drop either.
Unfortunately, I don't play my guitar these days, which is mostly because of time, but I didn't have that issue. Maybe people are worried about finger dexterity, but I was never playing at a level that needed extremely fast finger movements so I'm not sure. Hopefully you can make both work!
Andrew MacFarlane thanks for the quick replies! I'll definitely be getting some of these through your links and I hope you do more videos like this because it's super helpful!
Creatine is bad for some people (me). After using it off and on for a long time I can say it’s not worth it even without the side effects I get... spend that money on better chalk it’ll make you better 😂
No hate, but the format of this video makes it unwatchable. Sitting through a 50 min videochat is definitely not the way for presenting an exposition on a topic. I'm sure there'll be plenty of usefull advice here, but I'm not going through this.
TLDW:
Change some carbs around such as: rice or sweet potatoes/potatoes instead of pasta
20-25 grams of protein have enough leucine to trigger muscle recovery, want 30 gms of protein per meal
Creatine provides quicker muscle recovery, a normal daily dose of 5 mgs per day, no need to do a creatine load for climbers
Beta-alanine counters muscle fatigue
Protein powder is a way to receive rich protein to ensure proper muscle recovery
Collagen use 30 mins before training to help grow and recovery ligaments and tendons, a normal daily dose of 15 gms per day
Glycine before bed improves quality of sleep and helps produce collagen, 5 to 15 gms nightly
Tart cherry extract is a super antioxidant which can be used before bed to maximize recovery and improve sleep when not training hard
MCT oil during fasted periods or in the morning to help reduce energy without feeling lethargic from low food
This video is unbelievably detailed and informative. While being not very entertaining (as one could tell from the number of views compared to other videos), it is directly helpful. Can't believe I just sat through the 50min video chat of two men and learned a ton :) Thank you very much for creating contents like this.
Thank you for posting this! Seems like a lot of dietary advice comes directly from climbers, so it’s nice to hear from someone who focuses on this for a living.
One of my favorite climbing youtubers, keep it man!
That nutritionist is the real deal! Thank you for posting this.
Yessss thank you for the eating issue awareness at the beginning. Way to de-stigmatize an omnipresent issue!
Do you mind adding "chapters" for each supplement mentioned?
This is so wonderfully detailed and informative, thanks for posting this
Fantastic information! Can you do another video with Tom about whether Keto is worth it and/or safe (pros and cons basically) for climbers? You touched on it in this video but more info would be great! Also, Tom suggests to take collagen daily in OJ but also says later that taking Vitamin C regularly can inhibit the body's adaptation to stressors. Are there only certain things this applies (that we currently are aware of) like NSAIDs and anti-oxidants?
No. Keto is bullshit. Fasting ftw.
Tom recommends having a certain amount of carbs for training. I've done keto before and I have to say it's not sustainable. Tom's strategy had great results for me and was far easier to maintain and follow. I'm not sure about second part of your question- I'll have to flag Tom or you can shoot him a question on Instagram @usefulcoach
Hi, search for my podcast "ClimbSci" and we have a whole show dedicated to discussing keto for climbers
Taurine is listed in the description as one of the supplements to get but it isn't discussed. How is it used and for what?
When Tom said that there is no vegan source of collagen, I ran to grab the collagen supplement I take. It was vegan, but I was surprised to see that it's not actually a direct supplement of collagen, it's a lysine hydrochloride supplement which supposedly promotes the body's own manufacture of collagen. I'd be interested to know whether this can be useful in the same way as directly supplementing collagen. Any thoughts Andrew? I'd love to hear what Tom thinks about this as well!
I'd also be interested to know whether there are synthetic collagen supplements. For example rennet is only naturally found in cows but these days most rennet comes from yeast genetically modified to turn into rennet. Can we do this with collagen?
Great question- you should message Tom on instagram. He's a great resource and will probably know the answer @usefulcoach Hope you enjoyed the talk!
@@AndrewMacFarlane Thanks I will! I did, it was packed with information.
@@AndrewMacFarlane I messaged Tom and they got back to me with a pretty comprehensive response!
They said that lysine is part of the amino acid composition of the collagen protein, but the primary amino acids are glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. Proline is easily found in plant-based/whole foods, but they recommended supplementing glycine (which is synthesised so is vegan). They suggested 5g of glycine before bed and 5g in the morning, which I think you discussed in your video. I'm considering trying that.
Is there any chance of getting a summary of this?
Been dying to see this since you posted your month video to v7 please post the training you did during that time too id love to try it
Huge thanks for sharing this. Really thankful for getting this information :)
Thank you so much for this video it helped me out so much!
Thanks for an awesome video!
Thank you so much for sharing! He seems wise af
In my "Up Next" queue next to this one: "Louis Eats a Comp Wall for Breakfast".
How much bet-alanine? Can you start at 2g to avoid the tingling sensation?
How much beta alanine per day?
Are there any good brands/specific products that Tom had in mind for collagen and glycine?
So can we get a follow-up video about whether it helped! AND about the spain trip, did you send!?
Hey, ya I released that video months ago. It's called 'Climb V7 in a Month'
At what time during the day, and how much MCT oil is recommended?
How tall are you .?.
Hey Andrew, in the video Tom mentions there are two downsides to creatine but then only says one of them: the extra muscle hydration. Any chance he told you what the second downside is?
Audible testicular deformation
Funny how the more we learn, the more, if we listen to our bodies, the less supplements we should take. I think the mindset of even the supplements are just food the better we will be. And don't forget sardines, the perfect food for protein, collagen, omega 3, calcium and low in mercury at 88 cents a can!
So when it comes to protein powder and creatine.
Protein after each workout but when it comes to creatine when to take?
You can take creatine daily but it's not time dependent, so anytime.
@@AndrewMacFarlane thanks for taking the time to respond.
Have you continued with creatine each day? If so, I presume you've benefited in terms of enhanced performance?
Is it just me, or Tom looks like Adam Levine
Hey I noticed the guitar behind you. How did you manage to balance both activities? Everybody keeps saying that one hinders the other and I play guitar and started climbing very recently and it would hurt to drop either.
Unfortunately, I don't play my guitar these days, which is mostly because of time, but I didn't have that issue. Maybe people are worried about finger dexterity, but I was never playing at a level that needed extremely fast finger movements so I'm not sure. Hopefully you can make both work!
Do you discuss Taurine in the video? I don't remember hearing it but I may have missed it... Or if anyone else know, what is that beneficial for?
You're right, we don't go over it in the conversation, but he did recommend I take 1g per day, so I included it in the links.
Andrew MacFarlane thanks for the quick replies! I'll definitely be getting some of these through your links and I hope you do more videos like this because it's super helpful!
I'd be interested in hearing more about the science behind taurine and its benefits.
Creatine is bad for some people (me). After using it off and on for a long time I can say it’s not worth it even without the side effects I get... spend that money on better chalk it’ll make you better 😂
what side affects?
@@silenthicks bad farts
@@SimplyRockZone you get that with protein no biggy
The vigorous mayonnaise scully buzz because giraffe sequently punch inside a rare lip. auspicious, magical ounce
V6? And already trying to optimize through diet. This seems premature. I say put on some climbing specific muscle. Gains get sends.
No hate, but the format of this video makes it unwatchable. Sitting through a 50 min videochat is definitely not the way for presenting an exposition on a topic. I'm sure there'll be plenty of usefull advice here, but I'm not going through this.
well it was a really good podcast!!!