As someone who has been using this aiming system for awhile I’d like to point out some limitations. First of all, a shot which is completely straight warrants aiming with the center of the shaft. This much is clear, but it becomes more complicated when you consider that shots ranging between 0-45 degrees require less compensation for the size of the cue ball the less cut angle you have. As a result, you might need to aim slightly more right on a shot to the left or slightly more left on a shot to the right if the angle is pretty thick. The same is true of excessive cut angle. When shooting a ball from a large cut angle, generally larger than 70 degrees in my experience, it becomes less helpful to aim with the edge of the ferule. Eventually, you are even aiming at air, so it is helpful to utilize other aiming systems more fine tuned for this type of shot or rely on experience. This aiming system is best used when shooting a ball at a 45 degree angle, and becomes less viable for very thick and very thin shots. In addition, you still might not pot the ball if your stroke is off, so it’s very important to work on that too!
Hi Ed Thanks for putting together a revised method of the ferrule aiming system, 3 years on your looking Fit and Dangerous at the table, Thanks Heaps, from Middle Earth, New Zealand, I hope you and your Family are Safe from this Covid 19 Thing, Take Care. William.
This is something I have been chatting about for a while!!! I even made the diagrams explaining how the contact point is slightly to one side etc!!! You have explained this perfectly. This vid is great. Its how I aim. Look forward to more vids!!!
I will never forget this video because of the scary robot girls! haha! Great video, I've been using touch of inside for 2 years now and I'm experimenting with this and it seems it pretty much works a lot of the same way. The real advantage of touch of inside is there are only 2 aiming points on the object ball, either the center or the edge of the object ball is your target, so touch of inside does work darn good. The disadvantage of touch of inside in my opinion is lots of variation based on stroke speed, etc, but also touch of inside does not allow you to really move the cue around the table with english b/c it's all inside english.
I would say angles from 0 to 45 are very reliable. Note that object ball on spot and cue ball on head spot is a 45 degree cut. This system alone will undercut that shot because that sight line produces a slightly undercut contact point. You need an extra adjustment like touch of inside or just aim with more cut that you see.
Me too. Raised my Fargo about 40 points - which is about a 35% improvement in skill level. (Fargo system defines a 100 point difference to be a 100% improvement, or a doubling of your skill level.
Thanks for this aiming system,its improved my pocketing,but there after ferule aiming,next angle is center to edge,and next angle is shaft of cue stick
It took some digging but I found an old VHS tape from 1996 called "The Missing Link - The Ultimate Aiming System". The guys name was Dave Mullen. He has a Kindle book version that is free to Kindle subscribers. The VHS tape was very short - probably not more than 1/8" thick on the reel. The book is also a very short read with some pictures from the tape used as illustrations. Your video and description of the technique is much better than the tape that I remember seeing 24 years ago.
I have a challenge for you, incorporate a ghost ball in your demonstration. Tape a 13mm strip on top of the ghost ball to demonstrate width and edge of the ferrule alignment to the contact point of object ball. Place the ghost ball frozen to the object ball from a variety of angles up to 90 degrees. Edge of the ferrule alignment only pockets the ball at 38 degrees. No other angle is even close
My Diamond is one of the hardest ever produced. It was manufactured in 1999 when Diamond was briefly experimenting with a wider facing angle. It spits out everything that has not arrived cleanly. Amused by those who are obsessed with the size of pocket openings when shelf and facing angle are equally or more important factors in table difficulty.
Great explanation! The animated girls are so strange and way louder than you are but at least now I understand was SVB was talking about in the video where he claims to do this.
Eddie, I don't comment much on videos but I have to really thank you for this. I've been working with it for 3 days now and yes it does work...."guaranteed". It is one of a few aiming systems I use but for I'd say maybe 90-95% this is the way to go. For very thin cuts I use edge to edge. Currently, I use "feel" for shots with heavy english. But I'm playing around trying to work the ferrule edge system to work for me with english. Again, thank you for good explanation. But please do stay down on your shots......LOL
Glad to hear you like it. Most people hate it for first 3 days because it is unnatural. Yes indeed I jump up. But I think I got it under control and may post a new video showing how I attached the string.
Aiming inside edge of ferrule can cause an undercut. One half tip of backhand english will make these shots much more accurate. He even fades with outside as you see his body english steering. Go spot to spot and use this and you will undercut it by a diamond. Our eye sees this and we steer outside english and say “seee! It works!! “ Photography shows the player isn’t aiming where they think. That said, its close enough for our eyes to make subconscious adjustments. Overall... this is a good intro to the EOF method.
What a great video Scott! Just a quick question, so with either outside or inside english, we still use the edge of the ferule the same way as we normally aim? Coz when we use english, there is one tip two tip three tip away from the centre of the cueball, how do I implement this with edge of ferrule? Thanks so much beforehand :)
When using english (any left or right of center shot) I still use and do not change the edge of the ferrule sight line. This is because although the ferrule is changing position so is the aim line getting adjusted back toward the contact point. But what is most important in my opinion- and I think this is much more important than the edge of ferrule position at the cue ball - is adjusting for squirt. If you are using outside english you must increase the cut (so aim a little more outside the contact point). If inside english, reduce the amount of cut because the squirt (deflection) will increase the cut an unwanted amount. Dr. Dave's videos on squirt tell us the amount of deflection can be anywhere from tiny (say 1/16") to incredible (as much as 2.5"!) depending on shaft type, stroke, and distance. I guess the great players have a natural ability to make these adjustments by feel!
The pockets are larger than the object balls, so there is play in the pocket to allow for english on most shots. So for most shots adjusting for the english isn't needed, the OB will just cheat the pocket one way or the other. Using extreme english WILL affect the shot line just as in any other aiming method.
When your finding your contact point on the OB, you put your cue behind the ob. My question is with the shaft of the cue pointed at the OB, are you using the Center of the shaft OR the Edge of the shaft pointed at the OB to find the contact point on the OB ?
I studied aiming techniques for 10 years, including this. Thank you for sharing. One of the downsides of such systems is both 'steering balls" and standing up on shots. The stroke isn't a natural stroke so I'm not sure if our minds make a correction or not (We have played the game for a long time so our brains may take over - but we do begin steering the cue stick to finish the shot). For me to have a natural stroke using this technique I actually have to hit slightly inside of the edge (not due to squirt - which occurs at slower speeds, but cut induced throw, which occurs on all cut shots). Reviewing shots in the video, when you compensated for squirt you mentioned that you aimed thinner, but on slowing the shot down, it actually appears to be a normal stroke (your cue stick finishes aimed at the object ball as opposed to not). It actually appears to hit the object ball fuller on that shot. You would of course know better because camera angles can be deceiving. But would be curious to see if you find the same... than you can actually aim 1 or 2 dime widths inside of the edge of the ferrule line. It of course also works because the pockets are bigger than the balls so there is "play". As you say, it's a technique that works 80-85% of the time. But wondering if it truly works, why the need to steer the ball? An effective technique, but throws fundamentals way off.
steering the shaft seems to creep into your game when you are not conscious of it happening . i prefer a natural stroke but it's so easy to want to ''steer'' or ''push'' the ball into the center of the pocket . there's a lot of little things that up to the total summation of one's game .its a game that i don't have a natural talent for ,i have managed to improve my game somewhat but i don't think its a game i can truly master. i've been playing around 20 years now and one day i wake up and can't miss ,the next day my game is out of alignment .i noticed your recent comment on this site .maybe you have a suggestion or two that will help me . thank you .
@@rapanui222I think he's asking why extra is required to make this program work - barely noticeable even to the intent viewer, because of jumping up immediately from the shot.
Thanks for taking the time to generate this update. I like the several overlays of " I Gurarantee it" as it reminded me of the many dumb comments made by several viewers who cannot appreciate the humor. I have been using this methodology for a while since viewing your previous video and it has helped give me confidence in my shot taking. I wonder what are the scenarios that represent the 15% or so where this aiming method fails?
This system can be applied anytime you can actually see the contact point on the cue ball. As the contact point moves out of view there are two problems. First you have to "visualize" where it is, and second, now the cut is large enough (I'd say 80% or more - which in degrees would be >70) that the aimed spot on the cue ball created by the edge of ferrule aim line is not enough cut. In other words, you need a cue ball contact point closer to the edge of the ball. In these cases, we are making these very thin cuts with good "old school feel."
@@oneballeddie What I do is simply use a lower part of my shaft to aim really hard cuts. I find that it compensates for the lack of cut from the upper part of the shaft
Thanks for the post Sir. I’ve just spent some time trying your system. I set up a laser to identify the contact point. Then I line up the left or right edge of the farrel to that laser point. I’m using short distances so as to insure accuracy. What I’ve found is that that I’m missing by a couple inches either left or right. However, lining up the left or right edge of the cue ball to that laser centre and then striking centre cue ball with proper stance and cueing action sends the OB to the middle of the pocket. Anyway, just an observation I thought I’d share with you.
I think the reason is that Shane changes his contact point at different angles and furthermore divides his shaft into more than 5 segments. Therefore just using the left and right edges of the cue aimed at the contact point will break down at certain angles. As the individual player we all have to play around with it and recognize those angles. Center cue ball to object ball edge sounds like a half ball hit which is usually around 30 degrees. Try using your method and see if it works for a wider range of angles. If you search you tube for "edge of ferrule aiming" there are other videos that may help you build upon what this gentleman kindly posted. Appreciate you Eddie for taking time to try and help other players.
It is very interesting that you report such a discrepancy between center-to-edge aiming and edge of the ferrule aiming. In those cases where center to edge applies (which in my experience is only for cuts of about 45-60 degrees or less) I find the two aim lines converge nicely. In fact when lining up a shot I initially align a center ball aim at the edge of the object ball. Then I fine tune this initial set up with edge of the ferrule and any adjustments for squirt. Since you are experiencing a marked difference in results I wonder if there is something going on in your stance or stroke or dominant eye position that contributes to the difference. For me, center to edge only applies to about half the shots on the table while edge of the ferrule applies to 75-80% (but not all when the cut becomes extreme or deflection is dominant.)
I teach some of the worlds greatest players. I secretly post so I don’t get hammered by a zillion texts. Your question is a common one. When you use the edge of you’re ferrule at the contact you can physically take the tip close to the object ball ( while keeping back of stick OVER cueball and notice where the middle of tip is pointed IN RELATION TO THE EDGE OF OBJECT BALL. This is much easier to see when you go down on the shot. If you would like to discuss more send me your face book messenger contact.
Ed....3 questions. 1) Is your vision center over cb center and aim off ferrule or visa versa. 2) Are warm up strokes the same. 3) When you pull the trigger is your last eye contact with cb center or ob contact point. I was using this system more or less before coming across your excellent videos. My vision center has always been cb center with aim parallel from ferrule edge to contact point with eye on cb last. nter
Uh, are you the famous pro? 1) My head and nose are over the center of the stick but my sight line is down the edge of the ferrule. So I guess I would answer vice-versa. 2) Warm up strokes exactly the same to make sure the sight line is lined up with the contact spot. 3) Last thing we all should look at when pulling the trigger is the object ball. Nothing different with this aiming method. Thanks for your good questions.
this teaching iz correct ferrule left and right edge mets you locate the same point of contact object vall and mother ball.frm edgd to the helf of thd mother ball u can find the correct point of aim to thd ibject ball
If you’re using the edge of he ferrule to aim to the contact point, are you still using center cue call or is the edge of the ferrule striking center cue ball. Also if the edge of the ferrule is striking center cue ball aren’t you imparting English on the cue ball?
People are so bad at explaining these systems. I think he's still hitting center CB. Basically, this seems like a way to aim at the center of the ghost ball, but using a visual reference. Like, first aim at the contact point of the OB, then pivot your cue around the center point of the CB until the edge of the cue lines up with the contact point. It's just adjusting your aim to be a little thinner. That's the best I can do without an illustration. I can't really trust that someone with 50 years of experience isn't subconsciously adjusting their aim or their sighting to make it work. These types of videos seem fishy to me.
As i was browsing through the billiards i ran across your video. I am always in favor of anyone helping our young players today. Your video on ferrule aiming i thought good and explained well . The one thing i would have like t heard was where n the cue ball are you putting the edge of the ferrule, If the cue is center ball then the ferrule is outside of center. If the ferrule is outside of center then u have some added english which would make a difference in the shot. So where exactly is the ferrule your aiming with? Thank you in advance! Linda Moss An old friend of Hal Houle
Thanks for the question it's a good one. When using english (any left or right off center shot) I still use and do not change the edge of the ferrule aim line. This is because although the ferrule is changing position so is the aim line adjusting back to the contact point. But - and I think this is much more important than the edge of ferrule position - is adjusting for squirt. If you are using outside english you must increase the cut (so aim outside the contact point). If inside english, reduce the amount of cut because the squirt (deflection) will increase the cut an unwanted amount. I guess the great players have a natural ability to make these adjustments by feel! I always enjoyed Hal Houle's books from years ago.
I am not following your question about where "are you putting the edge of the ferrule." You are not putting the edge of the ferrule anywhere. You are putting your cue tip in front of the spot on the cue ball you want to hit. Then you are looking down the edge of the shaft/ferrule to sight the contact point on the object ball.
@@edscott1528 now u r right back to the ghost ball and if aiming with your feral edge u would need to have the center of the tip in the center of the cue ball which is exactly how players aim center ball
@@oneballeddie I had to read that twice to get it, I like it, same aiming system. I'm trying to get away from English to get more consistent, and only use it when there is no other way, with top or draw. Thanks.
Applying english is a separate consideration and is neither helped not hindered by edge of the ferrule aiming. With english you are introducing throw and deflection, where deflection is paramount. I suggest watching Dr. Dave's videos on deflection to help.
I heard SVB say in an interview, started off at 12.75mm and now about 12mm. In truth, I don't think it matters. Your brain/eye coordination gets used to whatever you have. This method works great for me. Thanks Ed
Where you hit the cue ball is decided by what english you are applying. This does not affect the aiming method of using the edge of your shaft as the aim line. However, if you hit the cue ball left or right of center, then you must of course account for any squirt (right or left respectively) that results. This deflection is not related to the eof aiming system and must be accounted for in all aiming systems.
Hey Ed, I am having a problem with this system and hoping you can help me. When I use your system, I am over cutting every shot. Do you have any idea what I am doing wrong? Thanks
Well if this means you do not overcut when you do not use the system, then I would say your natural ability to aim has already compensated for the undercut error in center ball aiming. This system is for correcting the error in center ball aiming - sounds like you don't need it.
The diagram with the woman in it shows the cue ball not aimed at the object ball's contact, point, but at some other undefined point. So what are you saying?
Really appreciate your effort for the video. Takes a lot to put that together. Any chance you could redo the diagrams and repost possibly? There's a lot of excellent information here but the diagrams aren't doing it justice..
Not sure I would call this an aiming system. You are still using the ghost ball method to determine your contact point/angle/aim. What I think is happening, and many new players get tripped up on this, is that you can't aim straight through center cue to the contact point because of the colliding objects being round. By aligning your left/right ferrule to contact point is an aim adjustment which compensates for the round object issue.
Presumably using the "wrong" side of the shaft for aiming with english is to offset the deflection caused with a high deflection shaft? Sounds unreliable.
just my two cents here.. when learning a particular aiming system.. just flw the system to pot the balls and not worry about scratching or non position.. just focus to pot the balls for the moment.. once you get complete accuracy then only you worry about positioning and avoidance of scratching.. you'll get accuracy much faster this way
There is a much simpler aiming system. Found on you tube. Line outside of cue with outside of cue ball and outside of object ball, hit cue ball in the center. Works 98% time. 100% open table. Very simple. I tryed to disprove it and I couldn’t it works every time.
I would like to see a diagram if how that adjust for differant angle cut shots, seems like you would only get one angle out of that. In this he is targeting what ever the angle is by changing his point of aim.
Ron Vitello 90/90 system which is a reverse CTE. Line up Edge to Edge on very shallow angles and then pivot to center from the edge. The OB is still divided into 5 parts and you line up Edge of CB to the particular line on OB depending on angle
Dont listen to this guy sayin "line up the outside edges, thats backwards...if u use this method, you have to line the INSIDE edges up then move your back hand only to pivot to the center of the cue ball and its not 98% accurate either, no where near that unless the balls are close together and close to the pocket. No aiming system is gonna be highly accurate, it all depends on how hard or soft u hit the shot, how clean or dirty the balls are (dirty balls cause more collision induced throw and sidespin) how new or old the felt is etc. You need to KNOW several different aiming methods very well and use them as a REFERENCE ONLY then practice, practice, and practice some more to develop a "feel" for the shots based on whatever speed or spin u need to use for each shot. Start with one of your aiming systems to identify the contact point, then use "feel" and knowledge to make the small adjustments for whatever speed u gonna hit the shot. Rule number one for pool is YOU MUST HAVE A GOOD STANCE, A SOLID BRIDGE, FIND YOUR VISION CENTER, AND DEVELOP A STRAIGHT, SMOOTH STROKE THAT HITS DEAD CENTER ON THE CUE BALL EVERY TIME. SHOOT STRAIGHT IN STOP SHOTS UNTIL THE BALL GOES IN AND THE CUE BALL DOES NOT SPIN OR MOVE OFF THE SHOT LINE. If u cant do that every time, theres no need to move on til u can cause you will not understand WHY u are missing shots.
For reference note that the object ball on the spot and the cue ball on the head spot is a 45 degree cut into either corner pocket. If we can handle any shot up to any including that one I think we have covered about 90% of the shots required to excel. And if we play better shape up to 99%.
Lmao at the Asian insert with the Godzilla movie Asian to English lips I like the video and advice, but like lingerie on wedding night, Asian girl not necessary 🤪 I like the concept. You blew through the English portion of this video. How did your aiming change while using the system? You said you changed the cut, but you didn’t tie it to the system. Did you change the aim point with the edge of shaft or something else? I do like the advice. I just got lost a bit at the English portion as you didn’t fully explain.
Yes having these fembots explain the diagrams in a booming voice is not what I had in mind. Suggest you hit mute when they come on. But the explanation should be straightforward: when cutting to the left aim the left edge of your ferrule at the contact point; right edge when cutting right.
His outside had almost no outside, same with his inside. Pretty grug brained take on a double-the-distance compensation method... (the fact that we don't aim the Center-CB at the contact point). Here's my video using more advanced shooting methods: czcams.com/video/keznf66dSHE/video.html
This ABSOLUTELY does not work for me !! Ive tried and tried. Our leagues and local tournaments are only on bar boxes , valleys and shelti's. I started using a make shift shish kabob aiming sys and now i cant miss , but making balls does not translate into wins. Speed and cue ball shapes is the common denominator for wins !! Forever working on it. Thanks for the Vid !!
Did you try a full two week experiment? I does not work for most people when they first try it. It is unclear why some people absolutely do not find it helpful because it is essentially geometry. I have thought it is just the mind's inability to accept the unnatural feel (at first) or inability to undo learned habits. Keep trying! And report back after two weeks with what is going wrong.
If you tried it for two weeks and it still doesn't work it is not for you. I hated it for first two weeks because it was unnatural and opposed to everything I had learned about aiming. But after two weeks it raised my game 50 Fargo points. Make sure you give it a full learning period.
All aiming systems have the same problem. At the point you start using english you have to start dealing with serve and throw and all the environmental factors dirty cloth, humidity etc this become a matter of feel especially when generating a angle for leave. As far as the promise of any aiming system the reality is making balls is about practice. The more you practice the better you will be. All my students over the years tend to have the same problem inconsistent pre and post shot. And in most cases can't even step into the line of the shot 3 times in a row and they wonder why they aren't getting any better. Aim is one of the least important factors in shooting well.
What does it mean, "Use the right side of your shaft as your aim line"? Aiming at what? Did it ever occur to you to think of plain, simple words that will explain your system?
You mentioned that you didn’t like CTE because you thought you shouldn’t move your body while setting up a shot. I agree that moving your body during a shot is bad technique. But the set up has room for adjustment before the stroke. However , your demo shows a flaw in “your”technique that suggests that it is good technique to jump up and steer the cueball instead of staying down with a good follow through. A straight follow thru guarantees you a straight stroke from beginning to end with no jumping up. Correctly using CTE causes you to deliver the stroke with a straight finish and better accuracy and no jumping up.
Good observation. I do a lot of jumping and steering after the stroke which is a real bad habit. Of course there is no suggestion here that anyone should do this!
he is using edge to ferrule and CTE at the same time 😂😂😂🤣 in CTE there is no need to sweep or move to the shot, I personally use CTE with traditional approach and angle cue but mostly traditional approach no need to do the Stan shuffet pro one sweep
The diagram at 1:14 isn't actually aiming at the contact point, so it's confusing that it doesn't match what you're saying. The aiming line in the diagram at 3:46 is worse, nowhere close to the contact point, and then there's an extra line going to the contact point that makes absolutely no sense whatsoever, with no explanation. I'd really recommend doing another version -- just edit out those confusing diagrams.
Nope ...... use the edge of ferrule THAT IS CLOSEST TO CENTER OF CUE BALL...... left side of shaft to shoot to left is a joke because you may be using LEFT OR RIGHT ENGLISH.....trust me
Exactly what I see at :47 seconds into the video. True that the "Why it works" graphic comes up too early but the video does exactly what you recommend in consideration of the audience.
As someone who has been using this aiming system for awhile I’d like to point out some limitations. First of all, a shot which is completely straight warrants aiming with the center of the shaft. This much is clear, but it becomes more complicated when you consider that shots ranging between 0-45 degrees require less compensation for the size of the cue ball the less cut angle you have. As a result, you might need to aim slightly more right on a shot to the left or slightly more left on a shot to the right if the angle is pretty thick. The same is true of excessive cut angle. When shooting a ball from a large cut angle, generally larger than 70 degrees in my experience, it becomes less helpful to aim with the edge of the ferule. Eventually, you are even aiming at air, so it is helpful to utilize other aiming systems more fine tuned for this type of shot or rely on experience. This aiming system is best used when shooting a ball at a 45 degree angle, and becomes less viable for very thick and very thin shots. In addition, you still might not pot the ball if your stroke is off, so it’s very important to work on that too!
Hi Ed Thanks for putting together a revised method of the ferrule aiming system, 3 years on your looking Fit and Dangerous at the table, Thanks Heaps, from Middle Earth, New Zealand, I hope you and your Family are Safe from this Covid 19 Thing, Take Care. William.
Thanks for the positive thoughts!
Chur kuzzy
This is something I have been chatting about for a while!!! I even made the diagrams explaining how the contact point is slightly to one side etc!!! You have explained this perfectly. This vid is great. Its how I aim. Look forward to more vids!!!
I will never forget this video because of the scary robot girls! haha! Great video, I've been using touch of inside for 2 years now and I'm experimenting with this and it seems it pretty much works a lot of the same way. The real advantage of touch of inside is there are only 2 aiming points on the object ball, either the center or the edge of the object ball is your target, so touch of inside does work darn good. The disadvantage of touch of inside in my opinion is lots of variation based on stroke speed, etc, but also touch of inside does not allow you to really move the cue around the table with english b/c it's all inside english.
That,'s the most simple effective aiming system I learned from the net!
Wow, much appreciated
Looking forward for more video
Great video! I like the diagrams as well as the explanations. Thanks for posting. I'll have to try this!
Just watched your presentation and it makes logical sense to me. Thanks!
Thanks for video. I can see also how this can help with focus.
Good job, the graphics / geometry speaks volumes. I believe VanBoening uses EoF. Thanks!
This system is very effective . I tried this already . Angles from 77.5 degree to 45 degree are very easy ,,
I would say angles from 0 to 45 are very reliable. Note that object ball on spot and cue ball on head spot is a 45 degree cut. This system alone will undercut that shot because that sight line produces a slightly undercut contact point. You need an extra adjustment like touch of inside or just aim with more cut that you see.
This upped my game by at least 35%. Thank you, Sir!
Me too. Raised my Fargo about 40 points - which is about a 35% improvement in skill level. (Fargo system defines a 100 point difference to be a 100% improvement, or a doubling of your skill level.
Thanks for this aiming system,its improved my pocketing,but there after ferule aiming,next angle is center to edge,and next angle is shaft of cue stick
It took some digging but I found an old VHS tape from 1996 called "The Missing Link - The Ultimate Aiming System". The guys name was Dave Mullen. He has a Kindle book version that is free to Kindle subscribers. The VHS tape was very short - probably not more than 1/8" thick on the reel. The book is also a very short read with some pictures from the tape used as illustrations. Your video and description of the technique is much better than the tape that I remember seeing 24 years ago.
This very well could be the original video. If so my hat's off to Dave Mullen!
Good video, the diagram animation cleared up some confusion I was seeing as soon as the edge of cue lined up with the object ball contact point.
Glad it helped!
Will try this soon. Thanks for this!
I'm going to try this out, great explanation.
First time aiming made easy for a change...will give it a try now that I see how to aim......thanks....
Top!!Clear and understandable explained.Works for me.
THX
Good to hear
Finally your 2nd video came up... i'm using your method sir.
Great video!!! Thank you! This helped me out sooo much.
Glad it helped!
Great. Thank you. I find it for a long time :). I will try it soon.
Did it work?
I have a challenge for you, incorporate a ghost ball in your demonstration. Tape a 13mm strip on top of the ghost ball to
demonstrate width and edge of the ferrule alignment to the contact point of object ball. Place the ghost ball frozen to the object
ball from a variety of angles up to 90 degrees.
Edge of the ferrule alignment only pockets the ball at 38 degrees. No other angle is even close
thx for this video, greetings from germany !
Excellent video, marvelous technique. Regardless of your aiming system invest in a set of pocket reducers to really fine tune your game.
what are pocket reducers?
My Diamond is one of the hardest ever produced. It was manufactured in 1999 when Diamond was briefly experimenting with a wider facing angle. It spits out everything that has not arrived cleanly. Amused by those who are obsessed with the size of pocket openings when shelf and facing angle are equally or more important factors in table difficulty.
Great explanation! The animated girls are so strange and way louder than you are but at least now I understand was SVB was talking about in the video where he claims to do this.
really strange lol
Great information thank you
Thank you
Perfectly explained.
Eddie, I don't comment much on videos but I have to really thank you for this. I've been working with it for 3 days now and yes it does work...."guaranteed". It is one of a few aiming systems I use but for I'd say maybe 90-95% this is the way to go. For very thin cuts I use edge to edge. Currently, I use "feel" for shots with heavy english. But I'm playing around trying to work the ferrule edge system to work for me with english. Again, thank you for good explanation. But please do stay down on your shots......LOL
Glad to hear you like it. Most people hate it for first 3 days because it is unnatural. Yes indeed I jump up. But I think I got it under control and may post a new video showing how I attached the string.
Thank you that helps me to understand.
Aiming inside edge of ferrule can cause an undercut. One half tip of backhand english will make these shots much more accurate. He even fades with outside as you see his body english steering. Go spot to spot and use this and you will undercut it by a diamond. Our eye sees this and we steer outside english and say “seee! It works!! “ Photography shows the player isn’t aiming where they think. That said, its close enough for our eyes to make subconscious adjustments. Overall... this is a good intro to the EOF method.
I noticed that pull too
My issue is that some videos say contact point and some say the edge of the object ball.
What a great video Scott! Just a quick question, so with either outside or inside english, we still use the edge of the ferule the same way as we normally aim? Coz when we use english, there is one tip two tip three tip away from the centre of the cueball, how do I implement this with edge of ferrule? Thanks so much beforehand :)
When using english (any left or right of center shot) I still use and do not change the edge of the ferrule sight line. This is because although the ferrule is changing position so is the aim line getting adjusted back toward the contact point. But what is most important in my opinion- and I think this is much more important than the edge of ferrule position at the cue ball - is adjusting for squirt. If you are using outside english you must increase the cut (so aim a little more outside the contact point). If inside english, reduce the amount of cut because the squirt (deflection) will increase the cut an unwanted amount. Dr. Dave's videos on squirt tell us the amount of deflection can be anywhere from tiny (say 1/16") to incredible (as much as 2.5"!) depending on shaft type, stroke, and distance. I guess the great players have a natural ability to make these adjustments by feel!
The pockets are larger than the object balls, so there is play in the pocket to allow for english on most shots. So for most shots adjusting for the english isn't needed, the OB will just cheat the pocket one way or the other. Using extreme english WILL affect the shot line just as in any other aiming method.
Never thought of it but it was great for me thanks a lot
Most welcome 😊
You should post videos of you playing more. You're a real sharp shooter
Thanks! I am basically a 600 Fargo shooter with room for a lot of improvement, but if I ever learn something else worth sharing I definitely will!
That is nice explanations po
When your finding your contact point on the OB, you put your cue behind the ob. My question is with the shaft of the cue pointed at the OB, are you using the Center of the shaft OR the Edge of the shaft pointed at the OB to find the contact point on the OB ?
Center of shaft to find contact point on object ball
Thanks
is it using the ferrule tip or the shaft like the middle of the cue stick?
I studied aiming techniques for 10 years, including this. Thank you for sharing. One of the downsides of such systems is both 'steering balls" and standing up on shots. The stroke isn't a natural stroke so I'm not sure if our minds make a correction or not (We have played the game for a long time so our brains may take over - but we do begin steering the cue stick to finish the shot). For me to have a natural stroke using this technique I actually have to hit slightly inside of the edge (not due to squirt - which occurs at slower speeds, but cut induced throw, which occurs on all cut shots). Reviewing shots in the video, when you compensated for squirt you mentioned that you aimed thinner, but on slowing the shot down, it actually appears to be a normal stroke (your cue stick finishes aimed at the object ball as opposed to not). It actually appears to hit the object ball fuller on that shot. You would of course know better because camera angles can be deceiving. But would be curious to see if you find the same... than you can actually aim 1 or 2 dime widths inside of the edge of the ferrule line. It of course also works because the pockets are bigger than the balls so there is "play". As you say, it's a technique that works 80-85% of the time. But wondering if it truly works, why the need to steer the ball? An effective technique, but throws fundamentals way off.
steering the shaft seems to creep into your game when you are not conscious of it happening . i prefer a natural stroke but it's so easy to want to ''steer'' or ''push'' the ball into the center of the pocket . there's a lot of little things that up to the total summation of one's game .its a game that i don't have a natural talent for ,i have managed to improve my game somewhat but i don't think its a game i can truly master. i've been playing around 20 years now and one day i wake up and can't miss ,the next day my game is out of alignment .i noticed your recent comment on this site .maybe you have a suggestion or two that will help me . thank you .
He is trying to diplomatically ask why you jump up at the end of your shots?
@@rapanui222I think he's asking why extra is required to make this program work - barely noticeable even to the intent viewer, because of jumping up immediately from the shot.
Thanks for taking the time to generate this update. I like the several overlays of " I Gurarantee it" as it reminded me of the many dumb comments made by several viewers who cannot appreciate the humor. I have been using this methodology for a while since viewing your previous video and it has helped give me confidence in my shot taking. I wonder what are the scenarios that represent the 15% or so where this aiming method fails?
This system can be applied anytime you can actually see the contact point on the cue ball. As the contact point moves out of view there are two problems. First you have to "visualize" where it is, and second, now the cut is large enough (I'd say 80% or more - which in degrees would be >70) that the aimed spot on the cue ball created by the edge of ferrule aim line is not enough cut. In other words, you need a cue ball contact point closer to the edge of the ball. In these cases, we are making these very thin cuts with good "old school feel."
@@oneballeddie What I do is simply use a lower part of my shaft to aim really hard cuts. I find that it compensates for the lack of cut from the upper part of the shaft
Great Job!!!!!!!
right on the money !! thank you !!
Ed, what type of pool cue and shaft are you using?
Thanks Ed... nice👍🇳🇿
Thanks for the post Sir. I’ve just spent some time trying your system. I set up a laser to identify the contact point. Then I line up the left or right edge of the farrel to that laser point. I’m using short distances so as to insure accuracy. What I’ve found is that that I’m missing by a couple inches either left or right. However, lining up the left or right edge of the cue ball to that laser centre and then striking centre cue ball with proper stance and cueing action sends the OB to the middle of the pocket. Anyway, just an observation I thought I’d share with you.
I think the reason is that Shane changes his contact point at different angles and furthermore divides his shaft into more than 5 segments. Therefore just using the left and right edges of the cue aimed at the contact point will break down at certain angles. As the individual player we all have to play around with it and recognize those angles. Center cue ball to object ball edge sounds like a half ball hit which is usually around 30 degrees. Try using your method and see if it works for a wider range of angles. If you search you tube for "edge of ferrule aiming" there are other videos that may help you build upon what this gentleman kindly posted. Appreciate you Eddie for taking time to try and help other players.
It is very interesting that you report such a discrepancy between center-to-edge aiming and edge of the ferrule aiming. In those cases where center to edge applies (which in my experience is only for cuts of about 45-60 degrees or less) I find the two aim lines converge nicely. In fact when lining up a shot I initially align a center ball aim at the edge of the object ball. Then I fine tune this initial set up with edge of the ferrule and any adjustments for squirt. Since you are experiencing a marked difference in results I wonder if there is something going on in your stance or stroke or dominant eye position that contributes to the difference. For me, center to edge only applies to about half the shots on the table while edge of the ferrule applies to 75-80% (but not all when the cut becomes extreme or deflection is dominant.)
Thank you eddie
Sure. Thank you
Those glasses are nice....do they help with seeing the edge of the ball? where did you get them if you dont mind me asking?
Decot HyWyd, Phoenix AZ
@@edscott1528 thank you kindly.
good explanation
I like this system but I find it very hard to look at the exact aming point when I'm down the shot.(especially in long shorts) . Any advice?
I teach some of the worlds greatest players. I secretly post so I don’t get hammered by a zillion texts. Your question is a common one. When you use the edge of you’re ferrule at the contact you can physically take the tip close to the object ball ( while keeping back of stick OVER cueball and notice where the middle of tip is pointed IN RELATION TO THE EDGE OF OBJECT BALL. This is much easier to see when you go down on the shot. If you would like to discuss more send me your face book messenger contact.
Ed....3 questions. 1) Is your vision center over cb center and aim off ferrule or visa versa. 2) Are warm up strokes the same. 3) When you pull the trigger is your last eye contact with cb center or ob contact point. I was using this system more or less before coming across your excellent videos. My vision center has always been cb center with aim parallel from ferrule edge to contact point with eye on cb last.
nter
Uh, are you the famous pro? 1) My head and nose are over the center of the stick but my sight line is down the edge of the ferrule. So I guess I would answer vice-versa. 2) Warm up strokes exactly the same to make sure the sight line is lined up with the contact spot. 3) Last thing we all should look at when pulling the trigger is the object ball. Nothing different with this aiming method. Thanks for your good questions.
this teaching iz correct ferrule left and right edge mets you locate the same point of contact object vall and mother ball.frm edgd to the helf of thd mother ball u can find the correct point of aim to thd ibject ball
Thanks great
If you’re using the edge of he ferrule to aim to the contact point, are you still using center cue call or is the edge of the ferrule striking center cue ball. Also if the edge of the ferrule is striking center cue ball aren’t you imparting English on the cue ball?
People are so bad at explaining these systems.
I think he's still hitting center CB. Basically, this seems like a way to aim at the center of the ghost ball, but using a visual reference. Like, first aim at the contact point of the OB, then pivot your cue around the center point of the CB until the edge of the cue lines up with the contact point. It's just adjusting your aim to be a little thinner. That's the best I can do without an illustration.
I can't really trust that someone with 50 years of experience isn't subconsciously adjusting their aim or their sighting to make it work. These types of videos seem fishy to me.
As i was browsing through the billiards i ran across your video. I am always in favor of anyone helping our young players today. Your video on ferrule aiming i thought good and explained well . The one thing i would have like t heard was where n the cue ball are you putting the edge of the ferrule, If the cue is center ball then the ferrule is outside of center. If the ferrule is outside of center then u have some added english which would make a difference in the shot. So where exactly is the ferrule your aiming with? Thank you in advance!
Linda Moss
An old friend of Hal Houle
Thanks for the question it's a good one. When using english (any left or right off center shot) I still use and do not change the edge of the ferrule aim line. This is because although the ferrule is changing position so is the aim line adjusting back to the contact point. But - and I think this is much more important than the edge of ferrule position - is adjusting for squirt. If you are using outside english you must increase the cut (so aim outside the contact point). If inside english, reduce the amount of cut because the squirt (deflection) will increase the cut an unwanted amount. I guess the great players have a natural ability to make these adjustments by feel! I always enjoyed Hal Houle's books from years ago.
I am not following your question about where "are you putting the edge of the ferrule." You are not putting the edge of the ferrule anywhere. You are putting your cue tip in front of the spot on the cue ball you want to hit. Then you are looking down the edge of the shaft/ferrule to sight the contact point on the object ball.
@@edscott1528 now u r right back to the ghost ball and if aiming with your feral edge u would need to have the center of the tip in the center of the cue ball which is exactly how players aim center ball
@@oneballeddie I had to read that twice to get it, I like it, same aiming system. I'm trying to get away from English to get more consistent, and only use it when there is no other way, with top or draw. Thanks.
Great detailed video.Can you do a more detailed video on how to add the English?
Applying english is a separate consideration and is neither helped not hindered by edge of the ferrule aiming. With english you are introducing throw and deflection, where deflection is paramount. I suggest watching Dr. Dave's videos on deflection to help.
Beautiful Cue Eddie! What is it? Great instruction here.
Thanks
Are you still hitting center cue ball ?
What is the mm diameter of Shane's shaft? Doesn't that make a big difference? Just from watching on TV his shaft looks pretty thin.
I heard SVB say in an interview, started off at 12.75mm and now about 12mm. In truth, I don't think it matters. Your brain/eye coordination gets used to whatever you have. This method works great for me. Thanks Ed
Are you hitting center cue ball but aiming with the side of the ferrule?
Where you hit the cue ball is decided by what english you are applying. This does not affect the aiming method of using the edge of your shaft as the aim line. However, if you hit the cue ball left or right of center, then you must of course account for any squirt (right or left respectively) that results. This deflection is not related to the eof aiming system and must be accounted for in all aiming systems.
When using English do you have to account for spin induced throw? Thanks.
Hey Ed, I am having a problem with this system and hoping you can help me. When I use your system, I am over cutting every shot. Do you have any idea what I am doing wrong? Thanks
Well if this means you do not overcut when you do not use the system, then I would say your natural ability to aim has already compensated for the undercut error in center ball aiming. This system is for correcting the error in center ball aiming - sounds like you don't need it.
The diagram with the woman in it shows the cue ball not aimed at the object ball's contact, point, but at some other undefined point. So what are you saying?
What is best way to find practice partners
Edge of shaft or ferule..is that like a pivot?
Really appreciate your effort for the video. Takes a lot to put that together. Any chance you could redo the diagrams and repost possibly? There's a lot of excellent information here but the diagrams aren't doing it justice..
Not sure I would call this an aiming system. You are still using the ghost ball method to determine your contact point/angle/aim. What I think is happening, and many new players get tripped up on this, is that you can't aim straight through center cue to the contact point because of the colliding objects being round. By aligning your left/right ferrule to contact point is an aim adjustment which compensates for the round object issue.
Are you hitting center cue ball?
Trying to.
I did see another video, (should have saved it) but for inside English, say cutting to left, Now use right side of ferrule to line contact point.
Presumably using the "wrong" side of the shaft for aiming with english is to offset the deflection caused with a high deflection shaft? Sounds unreliable.
It seems you don’t stay down after contact?
I have tried this and I am potting more balls. A problem I am having, however, is that I am scratching more. Darned if I can figure it out.
@KK C Thanks, I will try those hints.
I scratch a lot too but unfortunately cannot blame it on this method of aiming. Maybe thinking too hard on aiming and forgetting position?
just my two cents here.. when learning a particular aiming system.. just flw the system to pot the balls and not worry about scratching or non position.. just focus to pot the balls for the moment.. once you get complete accuracy then only you worry about positioning and avoidance of scratching.. you'll get accuracy much faster this way
There is a much simpler aiming system. Found on you tube. Line outside of cue with outside of cue ball and outside of object ball, hit cue ball in the center. Works 98% time. 100% open table. Very simple. I tryed to disprove it and I couldn’t it works every time.
Can you post a link to that aiming system or explain it a bit in more detail? Tnx!
I would like to see a diagram if how that adjust for differant angle cut shots, seems like you would only get one angle out of that.
In this he is targeting what ever the angle is by changing his point of aim.
Ron Vitello 90/90 system which is a reverse CTE. Line up Edge to Edge on very shallow angles and then pivot to center from the edge. The OB is still divided into 5 parts and you line up Edge of CB to the particular line on OB depending on angle
Dont listen to this guy sayin "line up the outside edges, thats backwards...if u use this method, you have to line the INSIDE edges up then move your back hand only to pivot to the center of the cue ball and its not 98% accurate either, no where near that unless the balls are close together and close to the pocket. No aiming system is gonna be highly accurate, it all depends on how hard or soft u hit the shot, how clean or dirty the balls are (dirty balls cause more collision induced throw and sidespin) how new or old the felt is etc. You need to KNOW several different aiming methods very well and use them as a REFERENCE ONLY then practice, practice, and practice some more to develop a "feel" for the shots based on whatever speed or spin u need to use for each shot. Start with one of your aiming systems to identify the contact point, then use "feel" and knowledge to make the small adjustments for whatever speed u gonna hit the shot. Rule number one for pool is YOU MUST HAVE A GOOD STANCE, A SOLID BRIDGE, FIND YOUR VISION CENTER, AND DEVELOP A STRAIGHT, SMOOTH STROKE THAT HITS DEAD CENTER ON THE CUE BALL EVERY TIME. SHOOT STRAIGHT IN STOP SHOTS UNTIL THE BALL GOES IN AND THE CUE BALL DOES NOT SPIN OR MOVE OFF THE SHOT LINE. If u cant do that every time, theres no need to move on til u can cause you will not understand WHY u are missing shots.
It works until 50 degrees after that you have to find something different
For reference note that the object ball on the spot and the cue ball on the head spot is a 45 degree cut into either corner pocket. If we can handle any shot up to any including that one I think we have covered about 90% of the shots required to excel. And if we play better shape up to 99%.
I can only say there is so many aiming systems
I can run 20 to 25 before I lose control of my train of thought can you help with some advice
Thanks
Hard to give any advice without watching you play. Make a video, upload on youtube and send me the link.
Lmao at the Asian insert with the Godzilla movie Asian to English lips
I like the video and advice, but like lingerie on wedding night, Asian girl not necessary 🤪
I like the concept. You blew through the English portion of this video. How did your aiming change while using the system? You said you changed the cut, but you didn’t tie it to the system. Did you change the aim point with the edge of shaft or something else?
I do like the advice. I just got lost a bit at the English portion as you didn’t fully explain.
Yes having these fembots explain the diagrams in a booming voice is not what I had in mind. Suggest you hit mute when they come on. But the explanation should be straightforward: when cutting to the left aim the left edge of your ferrule at the contact point; right edge when cutting right.
His outside had almost no outside, same with his inside. Pretty grug brained take on a double-the-distance compensation method... (the fact that we don't aim the Center-CB at the contact point). Here's my video using more advanced shooting methods: czcams.com/video/keznf66dSHE/video.html
All well and good if you could see it whats the resolution 144p
This ABSOLUTELY does not work for me !!
Ive tried and tried.
Our leagues and local tournaments are only on bar boxes , valleys and shelti's.
I started using a make shift shish kabob aiming sys and now i cant miss , but making balls does not translate into wins.
Speed and cue ball shapes is the common denominator for wins !!
Forever working on it.
Thanks for the Vid !!
Did you try a full two week experiment? I does not work for most people when they first try it. It is unclear why some people absolutely do not find it helpful because it is essentially geometry. I have thought it is just the mind's inability to accept the unnatural feel (at first) or inability to undo learned habits. Keep trying! And report back after two weeks with what is going wrong.
So has it worked?
For.some.reason this doesnt work for me.
I must be not doing it correctly !!
What happens when you try it? Do you overcut or undercut? Do you miss the same way whether cutting left or right?
Ok thanks, see u in three years
Anything new?
Its not work I tried it
If you tried it for two weeks and it still doesn't work it is not for you. I hated it for first two weeks because it was unnatural and opposed to everything I had learned about aiming. But after two weeks it raised my game 50 Fargo points. Make sure you give it a full learning period.
All aiming systems have the same problem. At the point you start using english you have to start dealing with serve and throw and all the environmental factors dirty cloth, humidity etc this become a matter of feel especially when generating a angle for leave. As far as the promise of any aiming system the reality is making balls is about practice. The more you practice the better you will be. All my students over the years tend to have the same problem inconsistent pre and post shot. And in most cases can't even step into the line of the shot 3 times in a row and they wonder why they aren't getting any better. Aim is one of the least important factors in shooting well.
What does it mean, "Use the right side of your shaft as your aim line"? Aiming at what? Did it ever occur to you to think of plain, simple words that will explain your system?
Did you have the sound on? Like in all pocket billiards you aim at a specific contact point on the object ball.
You mentioned that you didn’t like CTE because you thought you shouldn’t move your body while setting up a shot. I agree that moving your body during a shot is bad technique. But the set up has room for adjustment before the stroke. However , your demo shows a flaw in “your”technique that suggests that it is good technique to jump up and steer the cueball instead of staying down with a good follow through. A straight follow thru guarantees you a straight stroke from beginning to end with no jumping up. Correctly using CTE causes you to deliver the stroke with a straight finish and better accuracy and no jumping up.
Good observation. I do a lot of jumping and steering after the stroke which is a real bad habit. Of course there is no suggestion here that anyone should do this!
he is using edge to ferrule and CTE at the same time 😂😂😂🤣 in CTE there is no need to sweep or move to the shot, I personally use CTE with traditional approach and angle cue but mostly traditional approach no need to do the Stan shuffet pro one sweep
The diagram at 1:14 isn't actually aiming at the contact point, so it's confusing that it doesn't match what you're saying. The aiming line in the diagram at 3:46 is worse, nowhere close to the contact point, and then there's an extra line going to the contact point that makes absolutely no sense whatsoever, with no explanation. I'd really recommend doing another version -- just edit out those confusing diagrams.
The animated chicks are really creepy.
Trust me. I had to work with the live models we used. Even creepier.
Nope ...... use the edge of ferrule THAT IS CLOSEST TO CENTER OF CUE BALL...... left side of shaft to shoot to left is a joke because you may be using LEFT OR RIGHT ENGLISH.....trust me
Why don't you explain what it is before you explain why it works. Is it asking too much for you to have that consideration for your audience?
Exactly what I see at :47 seconds into the video. True that the "Why it works" graphic comes up too early but the video does exactly what you recommend in consideration of the audience.