Yes. We should go to their gallery before getting a burl handle. It is the best place where we decide to get the one or not. I always stey there for a couple of days before the purchase. If my greed burns up, I need to get it. If not, it is not mine. Alcohol always pushes the buy button, and next morning I regret it a bit. Generally regular wood is less regrettable in my case. Thank you.
I had used the big green carbide #220 stone for a long time. It was extremely soft and soon took a deep hollow shape. Then I upgraded it to Shapton #120 and Naniwa Super #220. Thanks.
Totally ZEN. Months ago I made some strops for myself and gave a few away to some friends that also share my knife addiction. Last week I just tried sharpening on water stones for the first time. I have found that much like the peace and solitude that I have while deer hunting, I am finding the same type of zen feeling while sharpening and stropping my knives. I totally love it. And I do enjoy watching you and the DBK guys bring a good knife to hair popping sharpness. I was thinking that it would be totally cool to see a blade under the microscope after sharpening on each of the stones and then after stropping with black and again with white compounds. I wonder if you already have a video such as this.
Thank you for taking the trouble to find out. Thank you, as well, for remembering to check the line. I had assumed that Shapton only made one type of stone but there was no reason for that assumption, particulaly as Naniwa make several. Thanks again Doc.
It is Nagura stone which entirely makes slurry which comprises something like 5.000 grit abrasive particles. It makes sharpening feel better and its speed a bit faster. Thanks.
Wako San: if you are going through 5 sheets of paper just to profile one knife ,I will start investing in fujistar and Niken , tomorrow morning! A suggestion is to first cut with an super large grit size. Anything under 120 grit. Will do the job. Just that you will have to use many grits to erase that heavy a grit size. I reprofile other sharp tools that require much more convexing than a knife blade. One or two sheets would be the maximum to use.
I am a dedicated deer hunter and always do field dressing. So my top 5 knives are all for that purpose. Bark River Rampless Gunny, Fox River, Classic Drop Point Hunter, BlackJack M-125, Fallkniven TK2 almost definitely.
I completely understand wanting to buy more then one knife... I'm currently going crazy for Fallkniven... But have wanted to start my BR craze... Yes burl is a beautiful and damaging it is not my idea... I will definitely be buying more then one BR... Thank you...
I’ve recently subbed your channel. I agree with re-profiling the grind. If you really want to finish it out keep going up the grits 6000; 8000; 10000 & 12000. Only do 10K & 12K for a mirror shine. All the previous scratches will be gone. My only regret is seeing the makers mark get removed. In the end I’m all about the edge. It’s a tool and I want my knives to perform. My favorites are A2 followed by O1. Just not sold on super steels like 3V. Love the Bark River and LT Wright knives.Love your vids.
I think a buffing wheel and some polish compound would put a like new factory look back into the metal. It can also be used as a power strop. I think you would like it.
I have experienced King, regular Naniwa, Shapton, Naniwa Super, and Naniwa Chosera stones. The geometry of the F1 is very fat and if you need thin geometry like Bark River A2 Gunny on it, Naniwa Super Stone #220 will be needed. To polish the bevel and sharpen the edge, we need Chosera #800 and #3000. Chosera #2000 seems a bit coarse for hard steels like 3G for before stropping. By the way I think 3G F1 is for the same purpose as 3V Bravo1. They primarily need fat geometry for a survival purpose.
Thank you... With your advice I'm debating on which knife to buy next... Believe me this will not be an easy choice cause you have a lot of excellent knives and reviews... Thank you...
Sandpapers get flat soon. I remember I needed 5 sheets or more of coarse papers to reprofile a 1095 carbon steel bevel. Thinking of the 3V hardness, the paper amount will go huge. Thanks.
320 will not do aggressive reprofiling from a high line while it will do regular convexing from a V edge. 1000 is needed between 600 and 1500 to polish up the bevel like a mirror. White compound is needed to make a razor edge. Thanks.
If you ever decide you don't like one of your fox rivers just let me know. Love the design of that knife. I would also love to compare your edges to my own.
Your observation is very precise. All of my 3V Fox River have a slight recurve from the factory. So I cannot make a zero grind edge on the handle side of the recurve. I won't use that portion in the field and don't take it seriously. Thanks.
120 and 240 paper are coarser than Chosera 400. After 1500 paper you need the black compound because the black compound is around 3000 grit. The white compound is over 5000 grit apparently but polishes the bevel extremely fast. Thanks.
One of the Corpsmen in my Recon unit here in Alaska was a professional guide. He carried an easy half-dozen knives plus, of varying sizes, for caping out trophies. Your usual hunting selection isn't large at all, considering. :)
I ever owned the S1. Its grind is starting from a low line and its edge angle is too large for game dressing. It's a survival knife or chopper angle. And it has no choil for choking up and its blade is too long for efficient power transfer and precise cutting needed in game dressing. BJ125 has a generous choil and works like a 4 inch blade by choke up pinch holding same as Fox River. Thank you.
In my experience, with the same refinement of the edge, 3V is significantly tougher than A2 & isn't that much harder to resharpen than A2 (that's right, resharpen & not just strop a still sharp blade). Consider the additional abrasion resistance of 3V over A2 and ask yourself if a manufacturer who makes both will spend the extra time needed to refine the edge on a 3V compared to a A2 blade? Might explain the difference Wako continues to notice between the A2 & 3V versions of the same knife.
thats true. I can't seem to find it anywhere else apart from american websites. But anyways. Ken (guy on the youtube link) seems to have quite liked this stone. I think its worth checking out
I already confirmed 3V stands against bone touching of my fiedl deer dressing in this small angle. I don't assume the edge will take micro chips. I also confiemed that the factory angle is uselessly dull for my field deer dressing. I am sure that 3V Fox River needs total bevel reprofiling before using it in the field. I assume Its factory angle is larger than 30 degrees while A2 factory angle is smaller than 25 degrees. I made around 25 degrees in this video.Thanks.
Sandpapers make a convex bevel even with hard backing. If you always need a convex bevel, sandpapers do the same thing as water stones do. 120/240/320/600/1000/1500 will do everything we need to do. Naniwa Chosera 3000 stone is harder and finer than 2000 and better for making a flat bevel to hard steels. We don't need to use the black compound after 3000. The white compound is enough to polish up the bevel after 3000. The white compound doesn't make the bevel convex. Thanks.
You must have 50 knives and 10 water-stones by now... maybe more. You have probably spent more than $10k for your hobby, I am amazed at that alone. Love your videos tho.
Very nice top five... I noticed that the BJ 125 is a 5" blade... Have you tried the Fallkniven S1 which is 5.18 of a inch long... Fallkniven says its their best hunting knife... I value your master knowledge when it comes to these beautiful knives and I would like to see a review on the S1... Thank you...
Now I use Shapton #120 for total bevel reprofiling unless I need to use a belt sander. And even after a belt sander I use Shapton #120. It makes decent scratches and I use Naniwa Super #220 to reduce them. I have Shapton #5000 and natural Shouhonzann #10k but have never used them yet. Anyway I will use those fine stones to polish up bevels not to make the sharpest edge. Thanks.
Hanokuromaku line has the largest variety of grits of all their lines. But they are provided all in 15mm thickness even in Japan. I suspect Hanokuromaku line will have better quality than the other lines because a dealer explains Hanokuromaku is the top line in Shapton. Thanks.
I love your work. Thankyou for sharing it with us, you are truly a master sir. I don't know where you get your stones from, but I live in Wales and can't get them. Thankyou again.
Hello Jason, Thanks for info. One thing I would offer is the actual color of the BRK photos of wood almost never match the real daylight color of handle do to digital photography metering etc. Just changing background color from white to black completely changes photo with no adjustments to camera. Im sure you know. But true color is very important.
KSF and DLT have many pieces of Gunny in Desert Ironwood. BRKT seems like having supplied them recently. The photos on KSF shows the square handle more clearly. You will need to ask DLT about it before the purchase. It can be an illusion of photography. Take care!
The maple burl is beautiful. But as a matter of fact, if you get a burl handle at first, you will get to need another regular wood handle soon. The other order will also happen anyway. They have a new batch of Classic Drop Point Huner of which handle has great ergonomics as Gunny. Regular wood and burl wood are different to me. Regular wood seems more on user side to me. I am addicted to Bark River wood handles. Thanks.
You are right. Only removing its factory made micro bevel doesn't make it as sharp as Bark River knives. If you want to regrind the whole bevel, 120 or 220 grit will be needed. But just for getting rid of its factory made micro bevel 400 grit is the best not to ruin its beautiful edge line. I think using #80 or #120 sandpapers only to reduce the back convex bevel just before the edge line will save your money. Only the edge line should be done carefully with 400/800/2000 stones. Thanks.
G10 is 172 grams. Micarta is 154 grams. Wood is 140 grams. Wood feels light. Micarta feels just right. G10 feels heavy. I personally love the warmness and the beauty of wood for my Bark River knives. But wood shrinks after years and sometimes takes cracks. Birch wood bends and detaches in high probability. So generally speaking Micarta will be the most preferable. But please take a look at Osage Orange at KSF, Cocobolo#4 ad DLT, Cocobolo#4 at TKC. I personally like those grain.Thanks.
I learn alot watching your videos, I bought a new knife Sykco 511 the steel is SR101 and it says it has Slightly Convex Saber Grind but I don't know what this means or how to sharpen it myself. I like the idea of the water stones and will buy some. Thank You
Definitely Convex in a quality steel. I assume a large earthquake will attack us and the electricity supply will go down. I will need to make firewood from a broken house in coldness. Convex splits wood much better. Bark River's 3V steel and convex geometry is the best for that purpose I believe. So I have a 3V Bravo1 not for hunting but for survival purpose. Thanks.
Fallkniven TK2 has nice bevel geometry and just removing its micro bevel is enough to give it the keenest edge. In Bark River knives Rampless Gunny in A2 tool steel will be the best hunting/camping knife which doesn't have fat geometry and won't have a micro bevel in high probability. A2 is on tough side and not on hard side. So its regrinding/sharpening/stropping is very easy and keeps its edge pretty long. DLT and KSF will give you the ramp removal for free. Bravo1 is a bit too large. Thanks.
Have you considered a worksharp Ken Onion sharpener for sharpening? It uses different grit belts to make a convex edge, it also has a blade grinding attachment you might find interesting. Though to be honest, I also love sharpening with stones, though I use oil stones.
Naniwa Chosera 400/800/3000 stones will satisfy all your needs. When you need to restore major chips or do aggressive bevel reprofiling, you will need Shapton Hano Kuromaku #120 stone for that. Thanks.
Jearamie1980-THE Bark River hunting knife master brings up excellent point of picture resolution. Confirm your choice with "brkgallery 2012" or ...2013 for bark river knife gallery and best detail resolution. But the best advice may be to not do it unless you can hide your crazy and control addictions. Thank you Wako for use of your channel. Its better than satellite.
Yes, Wako sir, very good and so very true that this is relaxing. I enjoy very much as well. Thanks for all the correspondence through email. It is appreciated. This is Mark in Kentucky, USA, and I just wanted to know if the 220 was better than the other small grit ? Plus, what was total time again ? Oh, and one more thing sir, is it hard to make micro-bevel ? Thanks Wako my friend. Very beautiful job.
Shapton says the 24mm thick version is only for domestic market. I think the stone quality of 24mm is the same as Hanokuromaku 15mm thick stone. Thanks.
I think the small re-curve portion near the handle /after your water sharpening/ can be a problem in future sharpening - is making a groove with a round file an option for you to make sharpening easier or this re-curve does not bother you?
@yokohamalion haha, if he made knives,he wouldn't use a belt sander and he wouldn't forge them. He would just go out and shape them with low grit waterstones and sandpaper.
Just as a general question, how is the knife community in Japan? Hunters and outdoorsmen, or a lot of general enthusiasts? I know the law is very strict, but one can enjoy a knife very much in the comfort of his own home.
I am afraid I cannot understand DI#3. Anyway I once owned a swedged Bravo1. It looked cooler at first but soon I changed my mind and I prefered a regular version for its cleaner design. I now have many rampless Gunnys and every single one has no swedge. Bravo1's swedge has a flat top and it is just aesthetic. I don't think I need a false back edge on my practical Bark River knives at all. Take care!
Trial and error is the best way. can't go wrong with Norton and Shapton water stones 1000 and 8000 is all you need don't buy the lower water stones like 120 220 400. sand paper is what you need if you want to regrind a bevel that's what lower grits are for. no need to go past 8000 grit water stones. use a strop for final polish and green compound sold for 5 bucks on eBay buy the small compound because that will last you a year by its self. The only way to learn to sharpen is to just jump in to you stone if you mess up you can always fix what you messed up. A great stone is 1000 8000. Double sided Norton water stone then the strop
I have the Fallkniven F1 and A1 hence the question. I have also some other pocket knives, but no need to list them all. I do like the Bark River knives as well. They are very beautiful and seem to hold up very well, even doing the tough job you put them through. But they are expensive like most beautiful and very well performing knives having high end steels. I hope you will make a list of suggested sharpening stones. Naniwa Chosera stones are sold in The Netherlands, but what grits?
Beautiful knives, I must say. I have looked at purchasing one for myself and while not in my budget at this time I plan to get one with black/white ebony handles. I think I like the Fox River model as well. Any recommendations for a model that could fulfill everyday use as well as hunting tasks?
Hello, I like your videos a lot they are always useful. I just have one quesstion about sharpening stones: If you can take only 2-3 sharpening stones what grids will you chose to be most universal (180#,2000#,3000#) ok?
Svetoslav Dimitrov #180 is very coarse and right for relatively large chip restoration or such. For micro chip restoration #400 should be coarse enough.You won't be able to skip #1000. It depends on your preference which you choose #2000 or #3000, or the both for finishing. Thanks.
We have no knife community. Just carrying knives for showing each other is illegal. Knife must be carried for its specific purpose. Chef can carry his knives to his restaurant. But a knife lover cannot carry his knives to show them to his friends. The law is like that, ridiculous. I always carry too many knives for hunting. I was said some times from my friend hunters that it is illegal...LOL.
Thank you... My next Fallkniven will be the TK2 and I want to have high quality stones for a high quality knife but be able to sharpen my other fallkies as well... Also I don't have any Bark Rivers... As a big game hunter and outdoorsman which Bark River would you suggest as my first...
A while ago, a (rather affluent) friend bought me the entire set of naniwa super stones, and I have to agree, getting a great edge on a knife is a pleasure in and of itself. That said, I feel like I am fumbling around with a set of tools which are far better than my experience is capable of using to their full potential. Can you recommend a good way to learn the *right* way to sharpen knives? I don't want to learn bad habits, and I don't mind inventing time learning. Is there a book or something that is considered the authority on water stones I should be looking for or something?
Also, I ordered a Shapton 12-K from Japan, it will arrive November 5th, do you think I will be happy with that 12-K brand ? Or in your opinion good purchase ? And no, I was not bored watching very long video. Like you say, you had something to say. Haha. Thanks for sharing Wako, I enjoy all ur videos. Mark :)
Doc, I have your suggested 400, 800,2000 + strop set. I think it's an excellent all-round compromise but for reprofiling or very blunt / damaged edges you are right again in that we need something coarser. The choices are numerous. Currently, I use a portable belt sander mounted in a vice but I would like to use the 120 Shapton. The one you have is ... BIG! Not available at Global Rakuten & only 15mm thick from Dieter Scmid in Germany. Do you have any suggestions please? Many thanks.
Hello, I am very new to knife sharpening, and I just have an American stone, so I am not experienced in choosing better stones. What would you recommend that isn't too expensive? I have found combination 1000 and 6000 stones for a good price, but would you suggest a smaller jump in grit?
Gwyrion Schiber Less expensive stones have even less performance. If you need to sharpen your outdoor knives, you need to use Chosera #400, Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku #1000, #2000, and Chosera #3000. They sharpen 10 times faster, easier, and better than regular combination stones. Thanks.
@virtuovice, although you liked the Falkniven F1 at first, you didn’t like it that much anymore after extensive use. The problem seems to be it doesn’t have an entirely convex form from the edge to the spine. That makes the edge sharpening difficult, right? Also you have switch over to tougher, harder, finer steel since you use it for Deer hunting having strong bones, that dull the edge. You have much experience with sharpening the F1, what water stone combination would you recommend? Thanks!
This is not sharpening, but devastating a beautiful knife. For destroying, the Bark River should have banned his knives from selling you. Additionally, you should go to jail for deliberately destroying the knife !!!
what a nice video! may i ask: when using sandpaper for sharpening/reprofiling, how often do you chance your sandpaper? i feel like my sandpaper gets 'flat' after very few strokes... thanks!
Wako, What did you rub on the 3000 stone? Also I respectfully retract my request to remove waterstone marks on 3V....it is hard steel who has time for that my side strop worked good enough. Also I picked up the SSH FR ....Rosewood burl just got married. Thank you.
Wako, what is yout opinion of adding swedge? Obviously you have not been doing it while having ramps removed. On the just right gunny what do think? DI#3 @ DLT? Im greedy also. Thanks for your opinions
Hello Wako, is that the LT version Fox River or standard? I am looking at the 3Vs on Knives Ship Free and the knive does not look the same. I prefer the all wood handle that yours has to the ones shown on Knive Ship free with the Steel bolster. Your input would be appreciated. Also can you recommend a good hunting blade that also has a gut hook. I have found them very helpful for skinning wild boar here in Texas. Thank you.
+Evan Macaluso knifejournal.com/showtopic.php?fid%2F11%2Ftid%2F810%2Fpid%2F1806%2Fpost%2F1806%2F#1806 Fox River 3V is now on water jet cutting, so you will need to wait for 4 to 6 months. I have no experience with the gut hook. Thanks.
I have the Shapton 120 Honakurumako, I think I spelled that wrong. But anyway, is there a certain name for your Shapton 120 that you have? Like mine is the Honakurumako, is there a particular place you can recommend I get one like yours? I love the stone it works very good. My 120 Shapton tends to get smoothed and almost polished after I lap it with Sandpaper. Do you have a particular method of lapping your 120, without polishing the working surface? I noticed that my 120 tends to work better for different steels then others, so maybe I just need to spend more time with it and set my natural Omura stone down for a while lol.
The "Shapton Pro" and "Shapton Ha No Kuromaku" are generally regarded to be the same stones. The "Pro" is just the name used on the stones officially imported into America. I believe the thicker 120 stone mounted to the wood base is part of the "M24" series. While these are very similar to the Pro/Kuromaku stones they are not the same.
I see that the face of your knives are now scuffed up. Mine are also scuffed. How can I get the face of the knives scuff free? I have stropped with black and still can not get it out.
Hello virtouv I'm planning on sharpening with whetstones as I think it's superior compared to jigs what grit would u recommend. I was thinking 240,1000,3000? Is that good? Also what brand is good and not too expensive. Thank you and keep up the videos.
+TheFiendRacer If you plan to reprofile a V edge, you need Chosera 400. If you don't, you need Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000, 2000, and Chosera 3000. They are the best stones among choice. Thanks.
My USB Microscope has a clear plastic sleeve in front of the lens to set the distance to the object. My object is always a knife edge and it shaves off the plastic sleeve to make small while fragments like that. Thanks.
Yes. We should go to their gallery before getting a burl handle. It is the best place where we decide to get the one or not. I always stey there for a couple of days before the purchase. If my greed burns up, I need to get it. If not, it is not mine. Alcohol always pushes the buy button, and next morning I regret it a bit. Generally regular wood is less regrettable in my case. Thank you.
I had used the big green carbide #220 stone for a long time. It was extremely soft and soon took a deep hollow shape. Then I upgraded it to Shapton #120 and Naniwa Super #220. Thanks.
Totally ZEN. Months ago I made some strops for myself and gave a few away to some friends that also share my knife addiction. Last week I just tried sharpening on water stones for the first time. I have found that much like the peace and solitude that I have while deer hunting, I am finding the same type of zen feeling while sharpening and stropping my knives.
I totally love it. And I do enjoy watching you and the DBK guys bring a good knife to hair popping sharpness.
I was thinking that it would be totally cool to see a blade under the microscope after sharpening on each of the stones and then after stropping with black and again with white compounds. I wonder if you already have a video such as this.
czcams.com/video/o9VnZ7cETQs/video.html
This might help you.
That's exactly what I was looking for. Very informative. Thank you very much.
I cannot believe how differently you sharpen your knives vs the United States techniques , I am studying your videos , thank you
I try more with water stones.
My oil stones I don't move as fast.
Thank you for taking the trouble to find out. Thank you, as well, for remembering to check the line. I had assumed that Shapton only made one type of stone but there was no reason for that assumption, particulaly as Naniwa make several. Thanks again Doc.
It is Nagura stone which entirely makes slurry which comprises something like 5.000 grit abrasive particles. It makes sharpening feel better and its speed a bit faster. Thanks.
Thank you for a very informative tutorial. I'm going to use water stones exclusively for my sharpening.
Seeing the results of the Naniwa stones on the two 3V knives was valuable. And, yes, the handles are beautiful.
Wako San: if you are going through 5 sheets of paper just to profile one knife ,I will start investing in fujistar and Niken , tomorrow morning!
A suggestion is to first cut with an super large grit size. Anything under 120 grit. Will do the job. Just that you will have to use many grits to erase that heavy a grit size.
I reprofile other sharp tools that require much more convexing than a knife blade. One or two sheets would be the maximum to use.
I am a dedicated deer hunter and always do field dressing. So my top 5 knives are all for that purpose. Bark River Rampless Gunny, Fox River, Classic Drop Point Hunter, BlackJack M-125, Fallkniven TK2 almost definitely.
I completely understand wanting to buy more then one knife... I'm currently going crazy for Fallkniven... But have wanted to start my BR craze... Yes burl is a beautiful and damaging it is not my idea... I will definitely be buying more then one BR... Thank you...
I’ve recently subbed your channel. I agree with re-profiling the grind. If you really want to finish it out keep going up the grits 6000; 8000; 10000 & 12000. Only do 10K & 12K for a mirror shine. All the previous scratches will be gone.
My only regret is seeing the makers mark get removed. In the end I’m all about the edge. It’s a tool and I want my knives to perform. My favorites are A2 followed by O1. Just not sold on super steels like 3V. Love the Bark River and LT Wright knives.Love your vids.
I think a buffing wheel and some polish compound would put a like new factory look back into the metal. It can also be used as a power strop. I think you would like it.
I have experienced King, regular Naniwa, Shapton, Naniwa Super, and Naniwa Chosera stones. The geometry of the F1 is very fat and if you need thin geometry like Bark River A2 Gunny on it, Naniwa Super Stone #220 will be needed. To polish the bevel and sharpen the edge, we need Chosera #800 and #3000. Chosera #2000 seems a bit coarse for hard steels like 3G for before stropping. By the way I think 3G F1 is for the same purpose as 3V Bravo1. They primarily need fat geometry for a survival purpose.
Thank you... I liked the orange and gold maple burl at KSF... But all beautiful knives... I kinda like the desert iron wood also...
Thank you... With your advice I'm debating on which knife to buy next... Believe me this will not be an easy choice cause you have a lot of excellent knives and reviews... Thank you...
Those are some beautiful blades!
If William Shatner were Japanese...
lmfao.... awesome
chemicallust77 BRILLIANT
Also thanks for FR 3V DIB WL BP...
LOVE IT
DLT!!
Sandpapers get flat soon. I remember I needed 5 sheets or more of coarse papers to reprofile a 1095 carbon steel bevel. Thinking of the 3V hardness, the paper amount will go huge. Thanks.
320 will not do aggressive reprofiling from a high line while it will do regular convexing from a V edge. 1000 is needed between 600 and 1500 to polish up the bevel like a mirror. White compound is needed to make a razor edge. Thanks.
If you ever decide you don't like one of your fox rivers just let me know. Love the design of that knife.
I would also love to compare your edges to my own.
I didn't know of Nubatama. I don't see it in Japanese market. Thanks.
Your observation is very precise. All of my 3V Fox River have a slight recurve from the factory. So I cannot make a zero grind edge on the handle side of the recurve. I won't use that portion in the field and don't take it seriously. Thanks.
120 and 240 paper are coarser than Chosera 400. After 1500 paper you need the black compound because the black compound is around 3000 grit. The white compound is over 5000 grit apparently but polishes the bevel extremely fast. Thanks.
One of the Corpsmen in my Recon unit here in Alaska was a professional guide. He carried an easy half-dozen knives plus, of varying sizes, for caping out trophies. Your usual hunting selection isn't large at all, considering. :)
I ever owned the S1. Its grind is starting from a low line and its edge angle is too large for game dressing. It's a survival knife or chopper angle. And it has no choil for choking up and its blade is too long for efficient power transfer and precise cutting needed in game dressing. BJ125 has a generous choil and works like a 4 inch blade by choke up pinch holding same as Fox River. Thank you.
In my experience, with the same refinement of the edge, 3V is significantly tougher than A2 & isn't that much harder to resharpen than A2 (that's right, resharpen & not just strop a still sharp blade).
Consider the additional abrasion resistance of 3V over A2 and ask yourself if a manufacturer who makes both will spend the extra time needed to refine the edge on a 3V compared to a A2 blade?
Might explain the difference Wako continues to notice between the A2 & 3V versions of the same knife.
To grind off half a milli of the steel will be a tough job. You will defintely need to start with Shapton #120. Thanks.
thats true. I can't seem to find it anywhere else apart from american websites. But anyways. Ken (guy on the youtube link) seems to have quite liked this stone. I think its worth checking out
I already confirmed 3V stands against bone touching of my fiedl deer dressing in this small angle. I don't assume the edge will take micro chips. I also confiemed that the factory angle is uselessly dull for my field deer dressing. I am sure that 3V Fox River needs total bevel reprofiling before using it in the field. I assume Its factory angle is larger than 30 degrees while A2 factory angle is smaller than 25 degrees. I made around 25 degrees in this video.Thanks.
The 3V Fox Rivers and FR Recurves may of came from the same blanks. It seems that a lot of that flat spine stayed with the regular Fox Rivers. IMO
Excellent vid!!!
Sandpapers make a convex bevel even with hard backing. If you always need a convex bevel, sandpapers do the same thing as water stones do. 120/240/320/600/1000/1500 will do everything we need to do. Naniwa Chosera 3000 stone is harder and finer than 2000 and better for making a flat bevel to hard steels. We don't need to use the black compound after 3000. The white compound is enough to polish up the bevel after 3000. The white compound doesn't make the bevel convex. Thanks.
I am happy to know it thanks. I hope you also will be happy to know that the exact same thing keeps happening way over here....see you...
You must have 50 knives and 10 water-stones by now... maybe more.
You have probably spent more than $10k for your hobby, I am amazed at that alone.
Love your videos tho.
Very nice top five... I noticed that the BJ 125 is a 5" blade... Have you tried the Fallkniven S1 which is 5.18 of a inch long... Fallkniven says its their best hunting knife... I value your master knowledge when it comes to these beautiful knives and I would like to see a review on the S1... Thank you...
Now I use Shapton #120 for total bevel reprofiling unless I need to use a belt sander. And even after a belt sander I use Shapton #120. It makes decent scratches and I use Naniwa Super #220 to reduce them. I have Shapton #5000 and natural Shouhonzann #10k but have never used them yet. Anyway I will use those fine stones to polish up bevels not to make the sharpest edge. Thanks.
Hanokuromaku line has the largest variety of grits of all their lines. But they are provided all in 15mm thickness even in Japan. I suspect Hanokuromaku line will have better quality than the other lines because a dealer explains Hanokuromaku is the top line in Shapton. Thanks.
I love your work. Thankyou for sharing it with us, you are truly a master sir. I don't know where you get your stones from, but I live in Wales and can't get them. Thankyou again.
Knivesandtools.co.uk
Hello Jason,
Thanks for info. One thing I would offer is the actual color of the BRK photos of wood almost never match the real daylight color of handle do to digital photography metering etc. Just changing background color from white to black completely changes photo with no adjustments to camera. Im sure you know. But true color is very important.
KSF and DLT have many pieces of Gunny in Desert Ironwood. BRKT seems like having supplied them recently. The photos on KSF shows the square handle more clearly. You will need to ask DLT about it before the purchase. It can be an illusion of photography. Take care!
The maple burl is beautiful. But as a matter of fact, if you get a burl handle at first, you will get to need another regular wood handle soon. The other order will also happen anyway. They have a new batch of Classic Drop Point Huner of which handle has great ergonomics as Gunny. Regular wood and burl wood are different to me. Regular wood seems more on user side to me. I am addicted to Bark River wood handles. Thanks.
You are right. Only removing its factory made micro bevel doesn't make it as sharp as Bark River knives. If you want to regrind the whole bevel, 120 or 220 grit will be needed. But just for getting rid of its factory made micro bevel 400 grit is the best not to ruin its beautiful edge line. I think using #80 or #120 sandpapers only to reduce the back convex bevel just before the edge line will save your money. Only the edge line should be done carefully with 400/800/2000 stones. Thanks.
G10 is 172 grams. Micarta is 154 grams. Wood is 140 grams. Wood feels light. Micarta feels just right. G10 feels heavy. I personally love the warmness and the beauty of wood for my Bark River knives. But wood shrinks after years and sometimes takes cracks. Birch wood bends and detaches in high probability. So generally speaking Micarta will be the most preferable. But please take a look at Osage Orange at KSF, Cocobolo#4 ad DLT, Cocobolo#4 at TKC. I personally like those grain.Thanks.
I learn alot watching your videos, I bought a new knife Sykco 511 the steel is SR101 and it says it has Slightly Convex Saber Grind but I don't know what this means or how to sharpen it myself. I like the idea of the water stones and will buy some. Thank You
Definitely Convex in a quality steel. I assume a large earthquake will attack us and the electricity supply will go down. I will need to make firewood from a broken house in coldness. Convex splits wood much better. Bark River's 3V steel and convex geometry is the best for that purpose I believe. So I have a 3V Bravo1 not for hunting but for survival purpose. Thanks.
Fallkniven TK2 has nice bevel geometry and just removing its micro bevel is enough to give it the keenest edge. In Bark River knives Rampless Gunny in A2 tool steel will be the best hunting/camping knife which doesn't have fat geometry and won't have a micro bevel in high probability. A2 is on tough side and not on hard side. So its regrinding/sharpening/stropping is very easy and keeps its edge pretty long. DLT and KSF will give you the ramp removal for free. Bravo1 is a bit too large. Thanks.
I have 25 Bark Rivers and 25 others for field deer dressing.
Have you considered a worksharp Ken Onion sharpener for sharpening? It uses different grit belts to make a convex edge, it also has a blade grinding attachment you might find interesting. Though to be honest, I also love sharpening with stones, though I use oil stones.
Thanks for video, enjoyed very much...
Naniwa Chosera 400/800/3000 stones will satisfy all your needs. When you need to restore major chips or do aggressive bevel reprofiling, you will need Shapton Hano Kuromaku #120 stone for that. Thanks.
Jearamie1980-THE Bark River hunting knife master brings up excellent point of picture resolution. Confirm your choice with "brkgallery 2012" or ...2013 for bark river knife gallery and best detail resolution. But the best advice may be to not do it unless you can hide your crazy and control addictions. Thank you Wako for use of your channel. Its better than satellite.
very clean, Great job.
Great videos
Thank you for a very informative video-arigato gozaimasu
This comment will be kind of dumb but i always think of that when reading the title:
*Serious Series: Serious Water-Stone Sharpening*
Yes, Wako sir, very good and so very true that this is relaxing. I enjoy very much as well. Thanks for all the correspondence through email. It is appreciated. This is Mark in Kentucky, USA, and I just wanted to know if the 220 was better than the other small grit ? Plus, what was total time again ? Oh, and one more thing sir, is it hard to make micro-bevel ? Thanks Wako my friend. Very beautiful job.
Shapton says the 24mm thick version is only for domestic market. I think the stone quality of 24mm is the same as Hanokuromaku 15mm thick stone. Thanks.
I think the small re-curve portion near the handle /after your water sharpening/ can be a problem in future sharpening - is making a groove with a round file an option for you to make sharpening easier or this re-curve does not bother you?
It is 5mm thick hard rubber sheet selling at a home center here.
@yokohamalion haha, if he made knives,he wouldn't use a belt sander and he wouldn't forge them. He would just go out and shape them with low grit waterstones and sandpaper.
Thank you for your thoughts. I have wanted Desert Ironwood #3 at DLT but the picture makes handle look square cornered as you have showm
When will Wako-sama start making his own knives? It is the logical next step.
Thank-you.
Just as a general question, how is the knife community in Japan? Hunters and outdoorsmen, or a lot of general enthusiasts? I know the law is very strict, but one can enjoy a knife very much in the comfort of his own home.
I am afraid I cannot understand DI#3. Anyway I once owned a swedged Bravo1. It looked cooler at first but soon I changed my mind and I prefered a regular version for its cleaner design. I now have many rampless Gunnys and every single one has no swedge. Bravo1's swedge has a flat top and it is just aesthetic. I don't think I need a false back edge on my practical Bark River knives at all. Take care!
Finally the stones are not moving while using them! 'What is the material that you place under the stones?
Trial and error is the best way. can't go wrong with Norton and Shapton water stones 1000 and 8000 is all you need don't buy the lower water stones like 120 220 400. sand paper is what you need if you want to regrind a bevel that's what lower grits are for. no need to go past 8000 grit water stones. use a strop for final polish and green compound sold for 5 bucks on eBay buy the small compound because that will last you a year by its self. The only way to learn to sharpen is to just jump in to you stone if you mess up you can always fix what you messed up. A great stone is 1000 8000. Double sided Norton water stone then the strop
I have the Fallkniven F1 and A1 hence the question. I have also some other pocket knives, but no need to list them all.
I do like the Bark River knives as well. They are very beautiful and seem to hold up very well, even doing the tough job you put them through. But they are expensive like most beautiful and very well performing knives having high end steels.
I hope you will make a list of suggested sharpening stones.
Naniwa Chosera stones are sold in The Netherlands, but what grits?
Beautiful knives, I must say. I have looked at purchasing one for myself and while not in my budget at this time I plan to get one with black/white ebony handles. I think I like the Fox River model as well. Any recommendations for a model that could fulfill everyday use as well as hunting tasks?
What you mean strongly suggests Gunny Elmax the geometry of which is as nice as A2 Gunny the bevel of which is a simple shallow convex plane. Thanks.
Hello, I like your videos a lot they are always useful. I just have one quesstion about sharpening stones:
If you can take only 2-3 sharpening stones what grids will you chose to be most universal (180#,2000#,3000#) ok?
Svetoslav Dimitrov #180 is very coarse and right for relatively large chip restoration or such. For micro chip restoration #400 should be coarse enough.You won't be able to skip #1000. It depends on your preference which you choose #2000 or #3000, or the both for finishing. Thanks.
i need to get some sheaths like that. the ones that came with my fox river dull the blade....
Thank you for the video... What stones would your recommend for reprofiling and sharpening Fallkniven Lam VG 10 and their 3G steel...
They are 3V Fox River.
We have no knife community. Just carrying knives for showing each other is illegal. Knife must be carried for its specific purpose. Chef can carry his knives to his restaurant. But a knife lover cannot carry his knives to show them to his friends. The law is like that, ridiculous. I always carry too many knives for hunting. I was said some times from my friend hunters that it is illegal...LOL.
Forgive my ignorance about this subject, but what is 21:19 is that part a metal shaving? I really enjoy your videos.
Thank you... My next Fallkniven will be the TK2 and I want to have high quality stones for a high quality knife but be able to sharpen my other fallkies as well... Also I don't have any Bark Rivers... As a big game hunter and outdoorsman which Bark River would you suggest as my first...
A while ago, a (rather affluent) friend bought me the entire set of naniwa super stones, and I have to agree, getting a great edge on a knife is a pleasure in and of itself. That said, I feel like I am fumbling around with a set of tools which are far better than my experience is capable of using to their full potential.
Can you recommend a good way to learn the *right* way to sharpen knives? I don't want to learn bad habits, and I don't mind inventing time learning. Is there a book or something that is considered the authority on water stones I should be looking for or something?
I learned my sharpening from a deer hunter whose job for money is a barber. Thanks.
You rebel Doc! :-)
Also, I ordered a Shapton 12-K from Japan, it will arrive November 5th, do you think I will be happy with that 12-K brand ? Or in your opinion good purchase ? And no, I was not bored watching very long video. Like you say, you had something to say. Haha. Thanks for sharing Wako, I enjoy all ur videos. Mark :)
Doc, I have your suggested 400, 800,2000 + strop set. I think it's an excellent all-round compromise but for reprofiling or very blunt / damaged edges you are right again in that we need something coarser. The choices are numerous. Currently, I use a portable belt sander mounted in a vice but I would like to use the 120 Shapton. The one you have is ... BIG! Not available at Global Rakuten & only 15mm thick from Dieter Scmid in Germany. Do you have any suggestions please? Many thanks.
Thank you. Very informative
Hello, I am very new to knife sharpening, and I just have an American stone, so I am not experienced in choosing better stones. What would you recommend that isn't too expensive? I have found combination 1000 and 6000 stones for a good price, but would you suggest a smaller jump in grit?
Gwyrion Schiber Less expensive stones have even less performance. If you need to sharpen your outdoor knives, you need to use Chosera #400, Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku #1000, #2000, and Chosera #3000. They sharpen 10 times faster, easier, and better than regular combination stones. Thanks.
Gwyrion Schiber You should try the Norton water stones. You can find them on sharpeningsupplies.com
Great watch
@virtuovice, although you liked the Falkniven F1 at first, you didn’t like it that much anymore after extensive use. The problem seems to be it doesn’t have an entirely convex form from the edge to the spine. That makes the edge sharpening difficult, right?
Also you have switch over to tougher, harder, finer steel since you use it for Deer hunting having strong bones, that dull the edge.
You have much experience with sharpening the F1, what water stone combination would you recommend? Thanks!
Very good. Thanks.
you know your chosera 400grit stone, did you ever try the naniwa version? the big 'green brick'. Seems to have good reviews on it.
This is not sharpening, but devastating a beautiful knife. For destroying, the Bark River should have banned his knives from selling you. Additionally, you should go to jail for deliberately destroying the knife !!!
what a nice video! may i ask: when using sandpaper for sharpening/reprofiling, how often do you chance your sandpaper? i feel like my sandpaper gets 'flat' after very few strokes...
thanks!
Wako,
What did you rub on the 3000 stone? Also I respectfully retract my request to remove waterstone marks on 3V....it is hard steel who has time for that my side strop worked good enough. Also I picked up the SSH FR ....Rosewood burl just got married.
Thank you.
Wako, what is yout opinion of adding swedge? Obviously you have not been doing it while having ramps removed. On the just right gunny what do think? DI#3 @ DLT? Im greedy also. Thanks for your opinions
Hello Wako, is that the LT version Fox River or standard? I am looking at the 3Vs on Knives Ship Free and the knive does not look the same. I prefer the all wood handle that yours has to the ones shown on Knive Ship free with the Steel bolster. Your input would be appreciated. Also can you recommend a good hunting blade that also has a gut hook. I have found them very helpful for skinning wild boar here in Texas. Thank you.
+Evan Macaluso
knifejournal.com/showtopic.php?fid%2F11%2Ftid%2F810%2Fpid%2F1806%2Fpost%2F1806%2F#1806
Fox River 3V is now on water jet cutting, so you will need to wait for 4 to 6 months. I have no experience with the gut hook. Thanks.
Next field video will be done in 720p.
I have the Shapton 120 Honakurumako, I think I spelled that wrong. But anyway, is there a certain name for your Shapton 120 that you have? Like mine is the Honakurumako, is there a particular place you can recommend I get one like yours? I love the stone it works very good. My 120 Shapton tends to get smoothed and almost polished after I lap it with Sandpaper. Do you have a particular method of lapping your 120, without polishing the working surface? I noticed that my 120 tends to work better for different steels then others, so maybe I just need to spend more time with it and set my natural Omura stone down for a while lol.
The "Shapton Pro" and "Shapton Ha No Kuromaku" are generally regarded to be the same stones. The "Pro" is just the name used on the stones officially imported into America. I believe the thicker 120 stone mounted to the wood base is part of the "M24" series. While these are very similar to the Pro/Kuromaku stones they are not the same.
rockets4kids oh wow thanks for that info. You mean they are not made the same at all?
@@charlescooperderose8872 In the grand scheme of things the Pro/Kuromaku and M24 stones are very close, but they are not the same.
I see that the face of your knives are now scuffed up. Mine are also scuffed. How can I get the face of the knives scuff free? I have stropped with black and still can not get it out.
Hello virtouv I'm planning on sharpening with whetstones as I think it's superior compared to jigs what grit would u recommend. I was thinking 240,1000,3000? Is that good? Also what brand is good and not too expensive. Thank you and keep up the videos.
+TheFiendRacer If you plan to reprofile a V edge, you need Chosera 400. If you don't, you need Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000, 2000, and Chosera 3000. They are the best stones among choice. Thanks.
thanks a lot ill look for those
Thank you... if you don't mind... What's your top 5 knives...
My USB Microscope has a clear plastic sleeve in front of the lens to set the distance to the object. My object is always a knife edge and it shaves off the plastic sleeve to make small while fragments like that. Thanks.
which stones would you recommend me for sharpening my kabar bk24 ? im amateur on sharpening and a lil bit scared of the stones :) thank you in advance
+exmas2006 Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000, and 2000 stones will serve you. Thanks.