How to Replace the Water Pump on a Johnson Evinrude 85-300hp Outboard
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- čas přidán 26. 02. 2014
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Wholesale Marine How To Video Guide. Installing a new water pump impeller kit that fits the following Johnson & Evinrude Outboard engines: 85, 90, 100, 120, 125, 135, 140, 150, 175, 200, 225, 235, 300, V4, V6, V8, and Sea Drives. - Jak na to + styl
I have never worked on an outboard motor in my life. Just successfully changed my impeller with this video. Thank you!
YEAH!!!!!
Thank you for this video. It helped me figure out 1 small thing I was doing wrong and saved me money.
Excellent post/video. Just got through change my water pump on 250 Johnson. Video was spot on. Thanks
I helped my buddy do this today. never worked on a marine engine before...very interesting & fun to try something other than cars & trucks.
Very great video, I feel confident to do this job when my parts come!
Very professional. The manual has you insert the impeller in the housing first. This method is MUCH better
I've installed the impeller both ways, and I think it is easier installing it in the housing first as suggested in the Evinrude instructions. Setting the key in place with grease and then holding it in place with the greased o-ring as you lower the pump housing down to the base works great.
It was easier for me to install the impeller in the cup first.
Great video, helped me out through the whole process on taking my lower unit off my 225 HO
YES. HUGE MISS IN THIS VIDEO! There is an O-ring that goes between the stainless cup and plastic housing that needs to be carefully glued in!
What glue should be used?
@SaltyBrains TY
Can somebody tell me where the top o ring goes above the top grommet!?! It's on the parts blow up but no videos on where to put the Damn thing
Ya I had to take the whole thing back apart because that o ring under the metal
@@sheldonf9267 have you ever found out what type of glue to use on this water pump impeller kit?
First of all, thank you for taking the time to post this video. After watching it and reading some comments I installed a new impeller kit in my 200 today. Problem I'm having is getting the foot back on. Mainly, the shift shaft wants to push back to neutral every time I attempt to reinstall. Maybe I'll get it figured out. Thanks again.
that's why you put it in reverse when installing... so the shift rod doesn't move!
This is a great video. After watching I attempted to replace my water pump. It did not go well. Comments below are the result of my personal experience replacing my water pump on a 130HP year 2000 outboard. First to access the shift rod bolt you need to remove lower cowing on the left side. This is very easy and only requires the removal of 4 bolts. Second the gear case on my motor is a V6 and very heavy for one person. Get help. Removing a SSTL prop really helps with the weight. Third "this is critical" It is possible to install the gear case with the water tube going up to the engine not in alignment with the water pump outlet. This will deform/crush the copper tube that supplies water to the powerhead. (guess how I learned this. I badly crushed and deformed the tube by trying to install the gear case by myself. I spent 2 hours reshaping the water tube. The other option would be to replace the water tube which requires pulling the power head and a weekend) After attempting to get the deformed water tube back to reasonable condition I reinstalled the gearcase with a helper so I was positive that the water tube and pump outlet were in alignment. My unknown at this point was did I get the tube in good enough condition to properly engage the pump outlet grommet so I would maintain water pressure. To answer the question I installed a tee in the water indicator line and ran a small tube outside the motor to a 0-30 PSIG. I took the boat to a local lake and I have 8 psig at 650 RPM and 30 PSIG at anything above 1500 RPM Not sure what it should be but seems to be OK. Hope you can avoid my problems by reading this.
I used a floor jack and some blocks under the gear unit and used a jack stand in front.
I got the shafts in some , lowered the engine tilt until it was kinda strait up and down, got the floor jack with blocks under the unit then I inched it up, used the jack stand in front to help it from falling down. Its alot easier than fighing it in place like young guys like to do.
My outside help would of been more work, alot of insulting and a mean headache.
Very good video, it filled in some questions I still had after watching many other videos, thank you.
Great Video. I did not know how to do the job so I went looking. I also found your site with all the parts I need. Once I take it off tomorrow I can order the parts needed. Excellent find on the internet.
Thank you for the video, a lot better than the manual! Saved me time.
No where in the Service Manual does it say or show HOW TO DISCONNENT THE SHIFT ROD AT THE TOP!!! I guess it must be some inside trade secret.
best how to i have ever watched thank you
TY for this video. My linkage was completely different, but all else is the same. I have a 1989 Johnson 88 SPL....
Apparently (I heard this in another video) there is a difference in shifter linkages between the 90 and 60 degree V engines. I've had a 88SPL before, I think that's a 90 degree v4, I currently have a 06 115, it has a much narrower look so I think that's a 60 degree v4
Excellent video... very well paced and very well filmed. I guess the only thing missing is a list of parts, kits, etc. that we can buy to get this job done. Thanks for taking the time to make this, it's really helpful.
Didn’t add o-ring between housing and cup.
XLNT video - including visuals, text & commentary by Miz Miracle... Thank you all from Oslo, Norway !!
You forgot the O ring between the cup and housing and also the one on top of shaft...made me do the job twice...
Yes I noticed that also when I watched this video. They didn’t take the stainless steel impeller housing apart from the plastic housing and install the o-ring with a small amount of sealer. Then it’s recommended to put some adhesive on the outside of the stainless steel housing before seating it back in the plastic housing. And yes they also forgot to replace the lower o-ring as well. They really need to revise this video or a lot of viewers are going to have water leaks and low water pressure 😕
Lol same thing happened to me over the weekend... now I gotta do it all over again. Fun!
Muppets
… use a gasket scraper to remove the old gasket. Don not use a flathead screwdriver (like we did)
I did the same. Cuz the cup already came glue in the housing & that orgin was around the top peice of the housing.
Nice video. Easy to follow
Be sure to install the little O-ring in the plastic housing before gluing in the stainless steel cup!!!
Also, it is normal for water to come out from the lower engine mount covers on the midsection.
What type of glue should I use
@@adampilkngton8981 3M 847
Salty I’m having same issue… figure it out?
Of all self help videos, this is one of the best. It starts with the issues at hand and finishes. I give this a A+
Very good video, thanks
Excellent!
Very well done.
extremely helpful
Gracias !!!!!
Awesome video!
I am writing this comment on Sept 29, 2023, in order to add some important clarity as to what is involved in changing out the water pump on an OMC V-6 outboard engine. The subject video indicates that it applies to all engines from 85 to 300 hp.
My OMC is a mid 1980s 150hp V-6. If possible I will include a photo of its exact “ID plate”.
This video begins with a very quick comment advising that first you disconnect the “shift rod” LINK so that you can drop the lower gear case, then allowing the new water pump to be installed. They give a very quick 4 seconds of video showing that “disconnect” proceedure.
(See video 18 seconds to 22 seconds for this disconnect)
NOW I WILL TELL YOU that it took me well over one hour just to find that disconnect point TODAY on my 150hp OMC V-6 !!!! It is a slotted head bolt that’s about a 5/16” head. That bolt head faces toward the port side of the engine. It requires a screwdriver that is 12” long just to touch the head of that slotted head bolt, it is so deep within the engine.
Once I found it it was so buried within the interior of the motor that although equipped to photograph the disconnect bolt I was unable to do so. On my motor that bolt is about 10 inches in from the port side cowling’s edge. Further it is in back of and below the lower most carburetor. It CANNOT be reached from either the front of the motor OR from the starboard side of the motor. MY POINT HERE TO YOU READING THIS IS - - IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE THE SUBJECT BOLT EVEN FROM THE PORT SIDE OF THE MOTOR.
I am an experienced mechanic with many decades of having done this kind of work.
IF you do remove the subject shift linkage bolt you will then be tasked with reinstalling that bolt after you replace the relatively easy water pump. Realigning the two pieces of shift rod and then putting the bolt back into that assembly will be the closest thing to “brain surgery” that I can imagine. You will likely drop the bolt int the innards of the motor’s swivel mechanism and that is when your real troubles will begin.
As good as the subject video is as regards the actual water pump change it is terribly flawed in not thoroughly addressing the problem of the shift rod disconnect and reconnect.
I’ll include two important photos if this video allows that. Apparently unable to add photos.
THIS IS A JOB FOR A HIGHLY SKILLED MECHANIC WHO HAS DONE THIS EXACT PROCEDURE MANY. MANY TIMES.
P.S. since this website did not allow me to post the pictures intended above, here is the model and serial number of my above Johnson 1985 V-6 150hp engine.
It is model “J150STLCDC”, serial “R7309958”
At minute 4:20, when you placed the impeller “cup” inside the housing, did you intentionally leave the “O” ring that is supposed to be placed between the cup and the housing off the new pump for a reason? I just rebuilt my pump, and the old pump did not have that “O” ring there neither.
Thank you for the instructional video, it’s been the best one I’ve found for my 1988 Johnson J110TLCCA. Other than that question I have, great job on the “how to”. Thanks.
After all was said and done on this well done video, I count extra O-rings not mentioned. I am betting one goes in to the composite housing before putting on the stainless cup. There appears to be a groove at the center of the housing for it. All throughout the video you see 5 rings and only 3 are mentioned in the installation. When the soap is being rubbed on the wear plate, you can see down inside the housing and still not see an O-ring. I will need to go back and find the diagram of what goes where. I followed this video exactly when I changed out my water pump and had left over o-rings. Water flows, but my motor heats up at high speeds. I have to go back to find out what I did wrong.
did you figure out why it is overheating at high speeds. my does this too
XLNT Video ! Here a note on Disconnection of the Shift rod/shaft from the shifter pin in front of the engine : There is a) the small bolt to be unscrewed & b) a tiny "hair pin" to be pulled that needs to released on the shifter pin before the shift rod/shaft hole is freed from the tiny pin on the shifter bracket. a & b must be released before one can c) push the shift rod from starboard to port (gear side towards center) out of the shift rod/shaft hole - and opposite to reinstall. A head lamp is good for light. No need to dismount the lower cowlings or the carbs. (on OMCs 1993-97 115 HP & 175 HP 60degr.)
I was just about to post on the same thing... 7:50 there was no explanation of HOW to align the shift rod - seems like that is a critical detail!
Where can I get more information (video or manual) on what you are talking about?
Nice Video. I've spent a few days trying to figure something out. I am swapping lower units. The one that I removed has a STRAIGHT shift rod (not even sure it's the correct one. I was Bait & Switched). The replacement one, has a bend at the top. Which is correct? If the bend is no good, do I just remove the straight one, and put it on the replacement? It's a 1994 150 Ocean Pro. I'm using the lower unit, of a 1996 200 Ocean Pro, which I believe to be compatible.
Nice consice thank you.
Thank you for the video, question. What if I install impeller into cup first, is that possible?
Hello, just found the Video. Great Job, superb explanations. Just one ustion: What kind of Glue do you use for the Housing and the O-Rings? Will some 50200 do or do I need something special? Regards from Germany Ulli
I have a 95 Johnson 225hp. I hope it goes as smooth as this vid.
I just got my 1996 Evinrude Ocean Pro 90 V-4 back together after replacing the water pump. I am not sure if this engine is unique, but there is no video on CZcams showing how to disconnect and then reconnect the shift rod. The connecting bracket is in the front/center of the engine held in place by a 3/8ths bolt. Access to the bolt is blocked by a rubber hose and its clamp. Putting the shift in reverse buries the bracket almost completely, so I put it all the way in forward. The only way to get access to the bracket is to remove the air cleaner(?), lower cowling halves, disconnect the shift cable end, and a cotter pin to allow you to move the shift lever linkage shaft to port, which disengages the bracket from the shift rod end. Remove the bracket bolt using an open end wrench to allow you to pull it to port side as far as necessary. My bracket wouldn't come off the shift linkage shaft, but it came far enough to disengage from the shift rod end. Re-installing is a real bear. Raise the shift rod up with a needle nose pliers or vise grip to give you the best chance to be able to rotate the shift linkage shaft up far enough, to line the bracket pin with the hole in the shift rod. Now comes the hardest part. Tap the bracket pin through the hole in the shift rod end, tap the bracket back fully on and flush with the end of the shift rod linkage shaft and re-install the bracket bolt. This last part took me a couple of hours before I finally got the pin in the shift rod end. I suggest you hire someone to do this job on this engine.
For everyone trying to get the lower unit back on and cant get the shifting rod hole to line up w the pin i figured it out, adust the throttle either in forward or reverse till it lines up. Took me hours to figure that out
Also you CANNOT TURN THE SHIFT ROD once lower unit down. Cuz it will change the height of it. That will mess up trying to reconnect and the shifting.
@@aspenrebel ive since given up my boat repairs. Ive taken it to the shop 3 times. Died on the water 4 times. She needs to be in a home where dads passionate for tinkering with the motor.
I need a boat that just works every time as i dont get to go out much.. theyre pricey tho..maybe nexy year. Thanks for the input
@@livelaughlove716 get a sailboat. I bought boat w 90 hp last August to get FREEDOM. from virus BS. I launched all over. Everything fine until early October. Went to small cove edge of lake, got muck clog intakes, alarm went off, overheated. Didn't get fix it before winter, trying now. Bought new thermostat and water pump, got old thermostat out. Where I stand. Need to flush out with hose. Been doing other things on boat. But just now I think I understand how to disconnect shift rod at top!!!! Finally!!!! YEAH!!!
@@aspenrebel my father in law told me the same. Maybe I will ill have to look into it. Thanks man
@@livelaughlove716 No such thing. Boats are relentless problems, maintenance, repairs, and learning. I spend more time fixing mine, and studying how to do that, than I do using it.
For E50TLEOD - 1995 Evinrude 50HP
Is the bolt that holds the shift shaft in place. Location to change the water impeller at the top or bottom.
Another thing that was not covered during the installation of the lower unit back into the outboard. There is an inner water tube that needs to be inserted into the pump housing for the water to get transferred. This is a big deal because that tube sometime will not line up, you have to coax it into the hole.
Great Video..very well explained. May I ask, does this video apply to a 1994 115HP Johnson V-4?
Thank You..very professional!
Yes. Basically all of the OMC's from 1979 and up 2 stroke from 85hp to 235hp, with minor differences in the shift linkage being disconnected if its a 60 or 90 degree v block.
I love how she just blows over the 2 most difficult parts of the job!! 1) disconnecting the Shift Shaft at the top, and 2) Re-connecting the Shift Shaft at the top. I can barely even FIND and SEE it on my engine. Let alone get at it to disconnect it!!! Oi Vay!!! All the rest is easy!!! In this video, the guy gets at it from the left side of the motor.? RIGHT!!!!! I looked from the left side, I can't see it on my engine.
It is the left side. Have a buddy shift it back and forth with the throttle lever while looking in there with the light. You will see/hear it moving. I have found that removing the lower engine cowling on that side helps a great deal with access. Just 4-5 bolts and it opens it up a lot. Good luck with it!!
You missed showing the medium sized oring between the metal can housing and the pump plastic housing before gluing it together. Once I glued the pump housing together with the can you can't get it apart again to put that oring in. I followed this video and don't have the water pressure it should be with an extra oring left over. I thought maybe it was for another motor style or something. It would also be good to note what size oring goes where. Obviously the large one goes on the plastic housing.
i had the same probleme luki emi wos able to take the metal plate back of and put the medium o ring in one more thing there one more ring let i ting is for the water tube not sure
Bro your a life saver
awesome video.. i did my 115 Johnson Ocean Pro just like that... what some ppl need to realize is that, its one thing if ur changing the impeller on a 3 to 5 yr motor, u may not have to do everything u did in this video, unless ;;theres groves'' like u said, which usually will not in a fairly new motor, but any motor 10 + yrs of age, u need to do these steps, its important , fuck its a must !!! grove on the medal or not, those things need to be replace, O'rings, Gaskets , housing etc.. u should have all them replaced... for the cost of the kit, or the cost of replace ur power head due to overheating, , well u pick !!!
i just replace all of it in my 2012 E-Tec 90 the full kit was only $70 for everything and do not have to worry for another 5 years i am happy and feel good knowing it is all new
This is the BEST video I have ever seen, I have searched for weeks. I did all this and it is still not pumping water, any ideas what to do?
Thank you,
Ed.
make sure water pipe went on the water pump as you push the foot onto the bottom of the engine.the pipe will often move enough to miss the pump.hope this helps
custardslastcake123 You will know (like I did) when you start the engine when water is shooting out your exhaust holes like a plume!
If you have a 2006 Johnson the shave does not have a bolt it is a carter pin on the starboard side of the engine.
Do you not have to use a sealer between the upper and lower unit mating surfaces?
no water flows in there to help cool the exhaust manifold
Do you not put the other o ring on the top of the drive shaft,???
What happens if I don't put it in reverse because I have problems getting it to reverse, not if I misassemble the axle ???
at the 4:58 mark, what is that O ring and why don't I see it on the shaft any more????
i know its a little late, but just my opinion: Pull the prop off before you start this job. This will allow you to inspect the prop shaft seal, and remove any debris or fishing line that gets caught in there. It also protects your prop in case of accidentally being dropped....
Agree. Also keeps your from losing a toe, or finger
@@GreggAdventure meh. The risk of digit loss is half the thrill of being a mechanic😂
My SELOC Manual recommends taking the prop off before removing the lower unit. It also recommends draining the gear too.
If you do it like they show, it will be effed up, they did not put O ring inside housing, and some other mistakes, , so glad I watched the "Detailed Evinrude W P" replace ment video brefor all was back together
Where is a good place to buy a pump kit?
I installed it as shown but my gear shaft is impossible to turn once I tighten the impeller kit down. Oh boy!
Good information
I didn't see you use the large/medium o-ring gasket. There are 4 of the o-rings. 1. under the housing. 2. that goes under the impeller. 3 that goes onto the drive shaft up top. and what's the 4th larger one for? Not the one under the housing. But the 2nd largest one. I have it too in my kit but can't seem to figure out where it goes. Maybe it's for another type of motor?
Stephen Phillippo i found out where that medium sized o ring goes,, the video skips a step.. before you put that Cup in the housing you need to put the O Ring in the groove thats inisde the housing... then put the cup in.... they forgot that step and the step why they put an O Ring on the shaft between the Wear plate and the Impeller when in the next shot they removed the O Ring.... and then the fat O Ring goes on top by the splines.. but i did there trick of pushing the cup down and twisting it didnt work i did it 10 times always O Ring came out.. now its stretched..... the trick i will do is you just twist the Impeller with your hand holding the cup.... then put the O Ring on... then slide it down onto the Key... this way you cant wreck the darn O Ring by stretching it
will this work for a evinrude 1982 75 hp?
why can't I find the shift shaft bolt on my 2003 90hp Johnson ?
Is this the same for a 85 150hp evinrude crossfire?
What glue is being used please help. Thanks
Great vid .. but one question. Why so much glue/RTV on the water pump gasket ,O ring..cover and stuff. It seemed that it didn't have as much when it was disassembled. Some people change their water pumps every other year. Figured it would be difficult to scrape the bottom aluminum housing and wear it down or score it because you have to scrape it off.
J-Styga you mast have some serious problems if your changing your water pump every other year...
@@ZobOg420 every 2 years is the normal water pump replacement maintenance schedule for all outboard engines. And even for outdrive units.
You are pushing your luck if your water pump is older than 2 years.
You don't need that adhesive. More to scrape off every time you do it
@@ZobOg420 .. that's normal maintenance on them. If your riding in salt water Alot they recommend to replace the water pump every 2-3 years. Some people leave their boats in all year and some take them out every ride and flush with fresh water with the rabbit ears to get out most of the salt water. Salt water does good damage on rubber and aluminum.
@@saltysteel3996 thanks for the back up reply. Some leave in the water all year and don't flush the motor out with fresh water with the rabbit ears. Salt water is nasty on rubber and aluminum.
what glue do you using?
I followed this video. However I took my pump a part again as I did not install the o ring in the housing.
I put in forward instead of reverse. Now after assembly motor only goes in reverse? How can I fix this?
Great video I have a 2003 Johnson 90 that Iam going to replace the waters pump. But I hear that there is also a cutter pin that I have to remove beside the screw any help please
Humm??? A screw AND a pin??? I have a 1994 90 HP Evinrude. I can barely find and see top of shift rod in my motor. Let alone if there is a screw and/or pin holding it. Nevermind how to get it disconnected.
XLNT Video ! Here a note on Disconnection of the Shift rod/shaft from the shifter pin in front of the engine : There is a) the small bolt to be unscrewed & b) a tiny "hair pin" to be pulled that needs to released on the shifter pin before the shift rod/shaft hole is freed from the tiny pin on the shifter bracket. a & b must be released before one can c) push the shift rod from starboard to port (gear side towards center) out of the shift rod/shaft hole - and opposite to reinstall. A head lamp is good for light. No need to dismount the lower cowlings or the carbs. (on OMCs 1993-97 115 HP & 175 HP 60degr.)
Take the prop off--before you replace the prop grease the shaft
They didnt show the bigger than the fat o ring, I think it goes between the plastic housing and the metal bucket, then the oring in the shaft, the big oblong oring mating the plastic housing to the plate, the molded oring on the tube thing, then the selector seal.
EDIT: n/m I bunch of ya'll noticed it too, my first time rebuilding a water pump, v4 130 TXAUM :D
Is this the same process for 1999 Johnson 90hp?
I assume that on counter rotating engine I would rotate prop counter clockwise when installing lower unit back in place
nope! drive shaft always spins counter clockwise!
i was surprised you didnt pan up with the motor running to show the pisser pissing
Why do I need to disconnect the shifter?
In my case it was a real &*&%$ to get the shift shaft to align and get the bolt in (at 7:48). It is impossible to reach by hand, thus close to impossible to do anything to correct any misalignment. So the only solution was to make room to get my hands there, by removing the whole carburator assembly. After that getting the bolt in was a breeze. And then the whole carb set needs to go back in. But hey, if you can change and service the waterpump, you can also remove the carbs. It may well be worth your while.
The guy at the boat store didn't mention anything about using glue for the disk or the oring that sits in the housing. My kit didn't even come with a gasket. Hmmmm.
I have a friend the is selling me this motor. I want to know if it can be fix and around How much will it coast. 2000 -150 mercury xr6 outboard with 25 inch lower unit
Top two cylinders over heated
i think what happened ..due to inexperience..is, i failed to make sure it had the gear oil...then it filled with water...now the propellor sticks and it does not go into gear at all..someone told me i probably need the lower unit...its a 1976 johnson 115 HP seahorse outboard....would you happen to know what a repair shop would charge?..by the way..this was an awesome video...and it took me a long time to find this with a similar motor as mine..
did u ever get ur motor fixed Spaceguy777 ?
no....lol..mine is a difficult one because the rod goes up thru the center....and i believe u have to take alot of stuff apart just to unhook the main rod...major drag...i may have to take it in...thanks very much for asking
did you make a stand for the lower unit? or, what did you use to hold it up?
It's the back of the boat
It's a lower unit stand.
someone . that can help me Where can I order the parts and where is the model or serial number of my engine thanks
does the fat O ring slide to the bottom side of the impeller or the thing one?
as i did the thing up and i put the fat one under the spline it buts too big in there was that right and i got a bad o ring then
mike vb i have a 1984 115 evinrude... your video shows you put i guess the thin o ring on top of the metal plate and then the next shot of the plate when you add soap that O ring is gone,, where did it go??? as i have an extra big O ring for some reason and the Fat O Ring doesnt fit in the spline groove
Does an o ring not go on top of the impeller aswell?!
Also one more question the grommet where water tube connects is it fat since up or skinny
I found on a 1987 evinrude 90 hp vro there is no bolt for the shifter and you can not release it when in reverse. leave it in neutral. pull the holding pin and push the shifting rod inword to pull the drive down. all the rest of the vid was great. they need to show more on this engine so people dont go crazy trying to figure out how to pull the drive.
+sas spencerport wish i would have seen this last week i spent 4hrs trying to get that damn pin out before i relized how to do it lol
You forgot small oring under cup
I cant find the shift shaft bolt =(
what was the brand of compound and glue used?
www.amazon.com/3M-Nitrile-Performance-Rubber-Adhesive/dp/B008F8WD04/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008F8WD04&pd_rd_r=ZJ52VBR01CX1V0GF80PA&pd_rd_w=Zp78f&pd_rd_wg=HZswh&psc=1&refRID=ZJ52VBR01CX1V0GF80PA
he forgot to install the O ring in the housing before GLUING the cup in! critical mistake! I can't believe Wholesale Marine didn't catch this in the video and correct it.
you guys didnt put larger o ring in impeller housing
Can anyone chime in with pressure readings before and after doing this project? I have a 2000 Johnson 200.
15 lbs pressure.Some prople vac test also,that's 5lbs vac.
What type of glue is used in this video? I have the same engine in the video.
3M black weatherstrip and gasket adhesive work great for the o-ring and it looks like he is using a similar rubber adhesive ....can see what looks like 3M but can not make out the type but most forms i read say a rubber contact adhesive and one recommend the one i named ...just did mine on 5 year old e-tec 90 uses the same pump
i think this is what he was using www.amazon.com/3M-Nitrile-Performance-Rubber-Adhesive/dp/B008F8WD04/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008F8WD04&pd_rd_r=ZJ52VBR01CX1V0GF80PA&pd_rd_w=Zp78f&pd_rd_wg=HZswh&psc=1&refRID=ZJ52VBR01CX1V0GF80PA
Thanks - I bought some to go with my water pump kit. Just waiting for the weather to get a little warmer to install.
what were the sealants and adhesives used? Looking at my manual it states to use OMC Adhesive M where it calls for adhesive, but doesn't state what sealant to use between the lower unit and the stainless plate's gasket..
OMC is out of business and am not finding a BRP equivalent for the adhesive
just use gasket sealer for the cup. all it's doing is stopping the cup from rotating, which it wont do anyway because of the locking tab. don't cover the idle relief hole though or it will run too cool at idle. the gasket just use omc or equivalent sealer as per above.
OMC Adhesive "M" is .....3M 847
So I removed shift shaft linkage bolt and dvery other bolt necessary and the lower unit will drop about an inch but seems to be stuck. Am I missing something? Any tips please? I need help on this.
Did you remove that bolt that it’s hidden under that round shield cover? On the lower unit
@@garbageman1983 the issue I was having was more than just a bolt on the shift shaft linkage. It also has a pin running horizontally that slides directly into the shift shaft. I had to put it in neutral, remove the cotter pin on the bar and then slide it over to release from the shift shaft. 1994 Johnson Fast Strike 175
I’m glad you figured it out,these engines are a little bit of a pain in the rear end
Can I get some of what ever it is your doing? I made a comment like 8 months ago then you send me this VID ? lmao.
i guess dish soap works, but isn't it easier just to use some tcw3 oil?
but that pollutes the ground or lake :-) also some rubber do not agree with oils .......i actuality have no clue and I am just guessing as to why you may not want to use oil or grease in the impeller housing
A Shore why would that be ‘easier’? You’re still putting something on it. Dish soap or oil. Why would one be ‘easier’?
Dish soap washes away and won’t leave a residue you don’t want in there. Depending if your salt or fresh. Salt will crystallize some oils or grease and then can pit your shafts or other parts down there.
@@ZobOg420 wouldn't it just suck everything out under 20 lbs of pressure after a few minutes? ive been using tcw3 for 20 years and no problems, but you have me worried now. i think ill try soap:)
I have a boat when I try to start it up on the lake, it starts up then it makes a very loud popping sound then smoke comes out out of the water exhaust can anyone help me? It's an Johnson evenrude 33hp electric start
More than likely a cylinder misfire. Replace plugs / wires and coils. Use fresh good grade fuel.
He forgot to install the o-ring between the housing and the cup ;)
yes he did luki i notis and pull it back out and put that o ring in
And forgot to mention the vent hole YOU DO NOT PLUG WITH SEALER!
Do anyone know the torque specs on the bolt on the impeller housing and the 4 bolt that holds the gearhousing to the rest of the motor.?
May be different for any motor. If you don't have a Service Manual, it may be in Owner's Manual. Or you should be able to Research it Online. I bought a Kit, it has everything in it, but NO Instructions. I'll have to check Service Manual I have. I haven't tried to put in new Water Pump yet, doing other things on motor first. Plus I can't figure out how to disconnect the Shift Rod at the Top. I can barely see it, find it.
My Evinrude BRP water pump kit instructions state the following:
24 to 36 in. lbs for the Impellor housing cover
60 to 84 in. lbs for the Impellor housing
3/8 gearcase mounting screws are 26 to 28 ft. lbs
7/16 gearcase mounting screws are 45 to 50 ft. lbs
hope this helps.
No gear oil? 🤔
how do i replace water pump on johnson 6.0 model#J6RCDE SERIAL#BO1O6210 out broad marine corp.belgium
chuck in reverse.drop the 4 bolts and tab bolt and pull the lower unit off. super easy. install pump. torque pump housing bolts to 60 in/lbs with locktite (technically threadlocker is optional on these little guys). and done.
Anyone know where I can get a workshop manual for a 1985 120HP Johnson?
Selocmarine.com
@@daasboot81 Thanks. Got it from there.
jabangun no prob. I had to order one today myself.
I had no problem with disassembly however getting the housing up to the motor is impossible.. something keeps getting in the way with a least 5” to go. Spinning the propeller and shaking the tar out of it isn’t helping at all???
It must be the water pipe coming down from the engine. It may have moved a bit out of its centre position and is now not locking properly into the waterpump connection. Just bend it back to the centre and try again.
How often should you replace it?
100 hrs. Or once a year
Riki Rosello I run them 5 years in fresh water. Short season in the Midwest.
What type of glue is it?
3M 847
my boat gets hot and i repleced the water pump what eals could i be
nathan steven your engine may be full of sand or if it was run dry without water it may have burned up the new pump impeller.
What would i take a part to see if there is sand in it
my be the thermostat to!