Thanx for showing and explaining the step 1) releasing/attaching a) Screw & b ) Hair-Pin holding the Shifter Shaft in place, thus, in turn releasing/attaching the c) Shifter Shaft from/to the d) Shifter Rod (usually done in reverse). Several pros skip showing this part - or perhaps just mention that it must be done and that its tricky... :-/ ! :-D !!!
I have a '96 115 unit. I got the water pump replaced---easy---the problem is lining that damn shift linkage back up properly. It's a pain in the ass. I'll get some needle nose pliers today and see if that helps! Great video--just wish there was a bit more video on reinstalling the shift linkage.
There is a quick disconnect feature for shift rod removal/installation that makes this job much easier...Simply pull the clip, and push the shift bellcrank towards the port side of the engine... No carb removal required...
@@thrlllckr6244 Yes, there are different model 150hps. The 60 degree loop V6 this fellow is working on has the clip that is easily removed, allowing the shift rod lever to be pushed in releasing the pin from the shift rod.
@@donk499 what a lot of people don’t know is the Vro 140 looper or v4 &the 120 v4 have v6 gear cases no clip I have the old school pin bolt it’s a pain just laid eyes on mine … they were not thinking about ease of maintenance imo 👍🏻
@@thrlllckr6244 True, but the clevis pin/bolts were accessible without removing the lower carb, you just needed a long 1/4 drive swivel socket. It was necessary to remove the starter on some of the inline models, but that was pretty easy.
@@donk499 I did take it out with extension mine had the 10 millimeter bolt not to bad I will be posting a video because for my particular engine very little info 🙂👍🏻
Great video, but the section where you went into fast forward is the section I would like to see.I bought the same kit but there were no instructions and it looks like there should be a seal between the guide tube & housing, on the drive shaft side and my kit doesn't have one. is there anyway to get pictures of the frames if you cant upload just that section of assembly of the new housing?
Hi. The needles come factory set and I do not mess with them. If you have not replaced the jets I'd start there. Clogged jets will starve the motor of fuel.
Stupid question, but how heavy do you think the lower unit is? I need to do this on my 112 evinrude and I'm concerned about whether I can support the weight.
Thanks for taking the time to show us how to stay in the boating game by fixing our older engines instead of buying new ones ($$$$$). I have two questions before I plunge into this job myself. At 3:30 in your video you say "there is a little fitting that we have to hold onto". Is that anything important? I just don't know what it is that you were talking about and I couldn't see it clearly in the video. Also, Im sure it matters but how do you know which way to put in the impeller? I didn't see its orientation when you removed it. Thanks for responding to an 8 year old thread...
Douglas Ely The little fitting I’m referring to is the key. (Woodruff key) you should get a new one with the kit, if you just by the impeller and you don’t get a new one don’t lose it because you have to install it. I’ve seen a number of ways to keep it in place. Some grease works. I’ve also seen people put a rubber band around it and then once it starts into the impeller break the rubber band off. The worst thing that can happen on this job is your break off a bolt. Outside of that it is pretty simple. Thanks for the comment and the view!
Did I miss something or did you not install the o ring between the cup and housing? I just put mine together and didnt realize I missed it but its glued together already...
I’m pretty sure reverse. Which ever allows better access to screw to release the shaft. It doesn’t matter by the way what gear it’s in just as long as you put it back in the same way.
Nice @ 4:50. Some VH ! Question for you. I have a evinrude 150 2 stroke Ficht. The bottom of the drive has the hole for the speedo but can't find the hose where it would connect for the speedometer. I bought the boat from my neighbor and he got the lower unit replaced ( bran new) he hit something. Maybe they forgot to run the hose? BTW .. Don't believe the hype about the Fitch. (Rumors say that motor was junk) this 150 2 stroke had all the upgrades and runs real strong! Takes out 250 four strokes with ease.
Agreed, a good Fitch will run forever. As far as the speedo tube, start at the hull pass through and follow it through to the motor. The connection is under the cowling at the back of the block. Not near the lower unit like you would think. Btw, if it's missing it would spray water inside the cowling. It's likely just clogged. Unplug it from the speedo on the dash and blow 10/15 lbs of compressed air down it. A can of keyboard dust air works great.
sam zeilman the key only jams in one direction. It’s not a traditional slot key. As long as the indentation on the impeller is close it’ll slide into the correct position. Hope that helps.
Juan Flores parts, westmarine. Serial number is unlikely, evinrude put it on as a sticker... most have fallen off. Model can be determined though. Google parts schematics and match up the drawings to your motor. Good luck!
I thought u had to turn the drive shaft clock wise while pushing the steal cover over the impeller .. this way you know all the impeller blades are turned the right way
Kennard Riley it's either the rod got moved or the shifter did. Likely the rod. Use needle nose pliers to try and work it into alignment. If not working pull the drive and move the rod up or down and reinstall. Good luck.
Hell you didn't show much. Like what it took to get the shift rod bolt out. Or how the o rings went in or how you got the new impeller in. Hell you didn't even show how you got the lower unit off.
Man you make impeller replacement way to hard. slide impeller on then drop housing on top. hold down pressure on housing and twist driveshaft clockwise. it will go on and preload at same time
I don't understand the purpose of making a "how to" video when you fast-forward through a detailed part such as O-rings. That's what I needed to see, a couple of the O-rings are close in size and I wanted to make sure I got them right. Good video otherwise, I suppose.
Thanks for the video. Forgot how to disconnect the shifter rod. This saved me!
Thanks!
Thanx for showing and explaining the step 1) releasing/attaching a) Screw & b ) Hair-Pin holding the Shifter Shaft in place, thus, in turn releasing/attaching the c) Shifter Shaft from/to the d) Shifter Rod (usually done in reverse). Several pros skip showing this part - or perhaps just mention that it must be done and that its tricky... :-/ ! :-D !!!
thank you!
thanks. i had the carbs off from the previous rebuild video already, and the camera sure gets in there better when they are off. thanks for wathcing!!
good videos. I've watched a bunch and this is about the best one.
Thanks!
Yep, I painted and replaced all the stickers 10 years ago and used a Fitch sticker set not really knowing the difference at the time. Good eye!
I have a '96 115 unit. I got the water pump replaced---easy---the problem is lining that damn shift linkage back up properly. It's a pain in the ass. I'll get some needle nose pliers today and see if that helps! Great video--just wish there was a bit more video on reinstalling the shift linkage.
Thanks
There is a quick disconnect feature for shift rod removal/installation that makes this job much easier...Simply pull the clip, and push the shift bellcrank towards the port side of the engine...
No carb removal required...
There are different variations
@@thrlllckr6244 Yes, there are different model 150hps. The 60 degree loop V6 this fellow is working on has the clip that is easily removed, allowing the shift rod lever to be pushed in releasing the pin from the shift rod.
@@donk499 what a lot of people don’t know is the Vro 140 looper or v4 &the 120 v4 have v6 gear cases no clip I have the old school pin bolt it’s a pain just laid eyes on mine … they were not thinking about ease of maintenance imo 👍🏻
@@thrlllckr6244 True, but the clevis pin/bolts were accessible without removing the lower carb, you just needed a long 1/4 drive swivel socket. It was necessary to remove the starter on some of the inline models, but that was pretty easy.
@@donk499 I did take it out with extension mine had the 10 millimeter bolt not to bad I will be posting a video because for my particular engine very little info 🙂👍🏻
Great video, but the section where you went into fast forward is the section I would like to see.I bought the same kit but there were no instructions and it looks like there should be a seal between the guide tube & housing, on the drive shaft side and my kit doesn't have one. is there anyway to get pictures of the frames if you cant upload just that section of assembly of the new housing?
Thanks
Question for you? Did you buy the parts as a kit or individual pieces. And where did you get them from.
frankybeats1 hi. The impeller and gasket come together. The o ring was separate if I remember correctly. Everything came from West Marine.
frankybeats1 oh, pump housing was separate also.
Hi. The needles come factory set and I do not mess with them. If you have not replaced the jets I'd start there. Clogged jets will starve the motor of fuel.
Stupid question, but how heavy do you think the lower unit is? I need to do this on my 112 evinrude and I'm concerned about whether I can support the weight.
40 pounds. If you can lift a bag of concrete, you can easily lift this.
Thanks for taking the time to show us how to stay in the boating game by fixing our older engines instead of buying new ones ($$$$$). I have two questions before I plunge into this job myself. At 3:30 in your video you say "there is a little fitting that we have to hold onto". Is that anything important? I just don't know what it is that you were talking about and I couldn't see it clearly in the video. Also, Im sure it matters but how do you know which way to put in the impeller? I didn't see its orientation when you removed it. Thanks for responding to an 8 year old thread...
Douglas Ely The little fitting I’m referring to is the key. (Woodruff key) you should get a new one with the kit, if you just by the impeller and you don’t get a new one don’t lose it because you have to install it. I’ve seen a number of ways to keep it in place. Some grease works. I’ve also seen people put a rubber band around it and then once it starts into the impeller break the rubber band off. The worst thing that can happen on this job is your break off a bolt. Outside of that it is pretty simple. Thanks for the comment and the view!
Douglas Ely Also the impeller can go on either way there is no up or down the blades will correct them self as you turn the shaft
Did I miss something or did you not install the o ring between the cup and housing? I just put mine together and didnt realize I missed it but its glued together already...
Nvm I think I saw you install I am going to try and remove the cup, if not I guess I'll have to epoxy from the top
What gear position did you have it in neutral forward or reverse?
I’m pretty sure reverse. Which ever allows better access to screw to release the shaft. It doesn’t matter by the way what gear it’s in just as long as you put it back in the same way.
@@bobbygfl thank you for the quick reply 👍🏻
Nice @ 4:50. Some VH ! Question for you. I have a evinrude 150 2 stroke Ficht. The bottom of the drive has the hole for the speedo but can't find the hose where it would connect for the speedometer. I bought the boat from my neighbor and he got the lower unit replaced ( bran new) he hit something. Maybe they forgot to run the hose? BTW .. Don't believe the hype about the Fitch. (Rumors say that motor was junk) this 150 2 stroke had all the upgrades and runs real strong! Takes out 250 four strokes with ease.
Agreed, a good Fitch will run forever. As far as the speedo tube, start at the hull pass through and follow it through to the motor. The connection is under the cowling at the back of the block. Not near the lower unit like you would think. Btw, if it's missing it would spray water inside the cowling. It's likely just clogged. Unplug it from the speedo on the dash and blow 10/15 lbs of compressed air down it. A can of keyboard dust air works great.
I have idle promblem with 90 Johnson boat motor
Is it necessary to drain the oil before or not the same compartment?
bruno cortes nope. Oil is in separate area
YOLOfotos
T kS for the video and answer
Is there a trick to taking the lower Calen off having some trouble thanks
Hope you figured it out
How do you perfectly line up the key with the impeller if putting in cup first
sam zeilman the key only jams in one direction. It’s not a traditional slot key. As long as the indentation on the impeller is close it’ll slide into the correct position. Hope that helps.
Hey man does an o ring go on top of the impeller aswell
And thank you I just learnt that today haha over thinking per usual
sam zeilman nope. Just on the one side
you should wait until prop stops spinning to shift and by the way you don't have to remove all those parts to remove and install shift rod
Michael Murrietta thanks!
I have a 95 130 Johnson, im I better not using gasket sealer or anything and flatout installing what I got in the kit? even tho it suggest it
The kit has always worked for me. My opinion is sealer would be for a scared surface, but I'd likely go with a thicker gasket first.
someone . that can help me Where can I order the parts and where is the model or serial number of my engine thanks
Juan Flores parts, westmarine. Serial number is unlikely, evinrude put it on as a sticker... most have fallen off. Model can be determined though. Google parts schematics and match up the drawings to your motor. Good luck!
I wish you hadn't fast forwarded through the assembly of the pump.
Sorry
Will a 1995 Evinrude 150 V-6 Intruder proceed in the same steps?
Yeas
No glue or gasket sealer? asking for problems.
Cj Summer it's been years. Not a single issue.
these use a spaghetti seal, not a gasket so no need for any sealant.
I thought u had to turn the drive shaft clock wise while pushing the steal cover over the impeller .. this way you know all the impeller blades are turned the right way
It doesn’t matter they will correct themselves
@bobbygfl you replied a decade later.. lol
Having trouble with shifting rod not lining up.
Kennard Riley it's either the rod got moved or the shifter did. Likely the rod. Use needle nose pliers to try and work it into alignment. If not working pull the drive and move the rod up or down and reinstall. Good luck.
wheres your key for shaft?
At 5:30 the o ring on the shaft is holding the key in position. Key is on back of shaft.
I should’ve said water hose
Eddie Spurlock a salt away mixer. Mixes salt away with the water to flush the motor.
Hell you didn't show much. Like what it took to get the shift rod bolt out. Or how the o rings went in or how you got the new impeller in. Hell you didn't even show how you got the lower unit off.
Did you watch all 3?
This is off topic, but need help.. on the head and block I need to install water deflectors.
I don't know which holes get them.
Water deflectors? What is that
Interesting that it says FITCH Direct Injection on it, but its Carbed. lol
Someone told me put a fitch sticker on it and no one will ever steal it lol
My wife said it would be great if I could vacuum the house that quick, I wasn't impressed.
L
Lol
@@bobbygfl LOL I wrote this 10 years ago!
Man you make impeller replacement way to hard. slide impeller on then drop housing on top. hold down pressure on housing and twist driveshaft clockwise. it will go on and preload at same time
Thanks!
you forgot to install keyway
It's on there. Must not be visible
you forget to put the key
word out it’s in there. Just doesn’t show in the video. Thanks for watching!!
I don't understand the purpose of making a "how to" video when you fast-forward through a detailed part such as O-rings. That's what I needed to see, a couple of the O-rings are close in size and I wanted to make sure I got them right. Good video otherwise, I suppose.
Sorry about that!
Slipping impeller omg
Thanks!