Make Custom Handles for Your Tools! (Ax and Hammer Restoration)
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2020
- Make custom hammer and ax handles, perfectly shaped to your hand. Your tools never felt better.
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For anyone feeling nervous about making handles, I've replaced hatchet handles in the middle of the woods while backpacking using only the hatchet head and a Swiss Army knife and had them last decades. If you are using the right wood and proper tools you are practically guaranteed to succeed.
How much would you say the wood type really matters for a carving hatchet? got an opinion on this?
Preferably a broadleaf tree, but use what you have. If you are in a pine forest wishing for ash or maple won't do you much good.
@@finnmcool2 thanks! How about fruit trees like apple or almond?
@@salam.arabic.course Apple would be excellent. It's flexible and tough. I don't have any experience with almond but would expect it to be fine, if only as a temporary handle.
@spartacusnow Elm can make a very good handle!
"but those people are wrong."😂
Perfect.
If ur wood is tearing out, you should probably do something about that 🤣 no truer words have ever been said
First time I ever subscribed to anybody on patreon. Thank you for your work, and for making woodworking affordable, fun and carefree for everyone!
Man you've taught me how to make my own shop, and tools.
Thank you.
My friends have been wondering where I've been learning this stuff but don't believe me when I tell them I learn from this dude on CZcams names rex lol.
They laugh at me sure, but my skills are quickly out growing their taunts and insults lol. Seriously thank you.
Love the video! I have a huge collection of old tools, collecting and restoring antique tools is my main hobby. I've probably hanged over a hundred handled tools and wanted to share a few extra little tips I've picked up.
When you drive the wedge, you can flip the tool upside down and set the wedge on the floor, or on a board, then strike the handle to both seat the head further and drive the wedge in. It's also totally fine if the wedge splits, just drive the individual pieces in as far as they'll go.
This next one is kind of contentious, but I think it isn't a bad idea to leave a tiny bit of wood sticking out the top of the head (called hairwood, since it sticks out the top of the head). Just like an eighth inch. If you wind up needing the metal step-wedge (I never knew my real wedge) and eventually need to take it out, you can saw off the hairwood and the steel wedge will be just a little proud, and then they're easy to walk out with a punch or a cold-chisel.
I have over 50 axes and two-dozen hammers, and I use them, and I've only glued one wedge. I've only ever seen one wooden wedge sneak out after a ton of abuse. The glue definitely doesn't hurt and it can kind of lubricate the wedge going in, but I haven't found it strictly necessary.
A great source of parent stock for hammer handles is sledgehammer handles. Some older hammers, especially handmade, can have absolutely cavernous eyes that a factory hammer handle doesn't fit. You can usually get at least 2 handles from a sledgehammer handle, they're almost always straight-grained hickory, and they're already close to the right dimensions.
Fitting the handle with chisels, planes, and spokeshaves is a totally valid approach, but if you don't have those tools yet the little $12 four-in-hand rasp can do almost all of the handle fitting and shaping. It's definitely work, but I've hanged dozens of tools with one before I furnished my workshop.
Again, loved the video!
Jarod Jones ... Great ideas all you shared especially using old used (long) sledgehammer handles to make new ones for other tools. As you said they’re already close to being shaped to what you’re looking for.
This comment is valuable and interesting all around, but the "(I never knew my real wedge)" joke deserves special recognition 😆 loved it
You have to put a lot of work to make something great with files. But I do sure love working with them.
For the wooden wedge i notched it horizontally, I tink it really is making a good work for my separation for a handle of an old hammer.
And note, I applied glue to that mid part from the wood and the steel
I don't give out idle praise but you can feel free to count yourself among one of the great wood working educators. I'd nominate you for the Norm awards
I have literally just shaped my own carving axe handle and just watched this video and was amazed to see that your axe handle was almost identical to what I have shaped and for the same reasons. So glad I was working in the right direction 😁
Getting back into the swing of things after my shoulder surgery and I have to say, I also have a pile of tools that need to be fixed up and at least half a dozen need handles of some sort. "Hi, my name is Stephen and I'm addicted to wood working with hand tools". I really love the encouragement Rex, I'm honestly still not sure about my shoulder so a positive attitude and instructions like you have here is exactly what I need right now. As always many thanks !!!
Be patient with yourself and follow your therapists instructions. Us men tend to be a bit stubborn.
Can’t stop laughing... just did one for a hammer... this morning !
I've got a lot of black locust growing on my property. I use that a lot for tool handles. It's fantastic. But the down side is that it's harder than the metal (joking of course but not by much).
I too have the locust on mine. I made some handles out of it but it is very hard and i have a feeling it is less elastic than ash, which is not good for an axe, at least.
I don't glue my wedges I just cover them in BLO before installing them, it adds lubrication and really lets the wedge go in farther than it normally would. I also cover the end of the handle with BLO before I install it in the eye to really help it seat down on the flare. Some times the wedge goes in so tight that it squeezes out some of the BLO that had absorbed into the handle. When the BLO dries and polymerizes it tries to swell and tightens the handle even more.
Does the wedge not pop out easier because of the oil? The glue at least binds it in place to a certain extent, one would think. The proof is that it is hard to get the wedge out if it is glued. But oiling of the handle before hanging is a good tip - i will try it the next time i hang an axe, which is soon. thanks.
@@Jack_Schularick A oiled wedge should be just as hard to remove as a dry wedge because you put them both in as far and as tight as they will go so the friction between the handle and the wedge is the same. However, the oiled wedge slides in farther so it creates more pressure out to the head. There probably are slight differences between the actual insertion friction and removal friction with or without oil but I suspect that they are minimal. For my handles I want the absolute tightest fit in the eye that's possible. Once there's some movement things start to loosen up, wedges come out etc and the movement amplifies. It would be interesting to test to see if glue helps or hurts how far you can drive in a wedge. I can see it acting as a lubricant like oil or I can see it getting spread so thin that it starts to set up and hinders how far the wedge goes in.
@@diyVT Thank you for your interesting response, diyVT. I like your points. About the oiled wedge going further. It can be that the oil, as i polymerizes and hardens, creates a gluing effect between the surfaces. Or at least prevents drying locally. "There probably are slight differences between the actual insertion friction and removal friction with or without oil but I suspect that they are minimal" - That's a bold statement! "It would be interesting to test to see if glue helps or hurts how far you can drive in a wedge" - yes. An it should not be too difficult to make a good model for this. But not less interesting, and probably more relevant to real life would be to have a good model for wedges coming out: with or without glue or oil. And this seems very complicated. You can't wait a year or more for the drying and settling to take place. And you can't repeat various mechanical influences in the thousands of repetitions over months and years. Which kinds? Is it going to be like a grandmother making kindling or a 3 meter high Poul Bunyan felling a wood a day with the same ax? One could find a repetitive movement/shock which would approximate something in between in real life, perhaps. But the most relevant experiment would be to visit a professional, preferably intelligent, axe specialist who lives off of not having to rehang the axes he sells, and ask him. Problem is, that nobody is fee from personal bias etc. My idea for a model for wedges coming out would be a block of wood with a wedge (plus/minus glue or oil) kept in vice or clamp for say, a month. Then bang it from the side a fixed number of blows and then try to get the wedge out, measuring the force needed. It migt even be double blind placebo controlled, in three prongs: +glue, +oil and nothing (placebo). What do you say?
@@Jack_Schularick sounds like a good video. You could also make special heads that the handles go in that you can measure the expansion of the actual steel "head" to get a idea of how tight things are. Getting the "head" dimensions right could be difficult but it wouldn't be that hard to actually make.
Interesting idea with just BLO on the wedge. I’ll try on one of my mails and test the theory. (Checking often)
After I fit a head I fill a paper plate with linseed oil and put the tool head down on the plate. Leave it overnight and it will drink a surprising amount of oil through capillary action. Once the blo polymerizes the wood in the eye is well protected. I put a thin coat of oil on the handle before I put the head down in the oil and another after it has done its thing overnight on the paper plate. Been doing this for a few years and it's always worked well for me
Sounds like a great approach!
How much does it take after the fact for all that oil to fully polymerize? It must be a lot considering that one time I unfortunately finished with oil the inside of a box and had to wait almost a month for all the smell to be gone
@@Lagrange00 I would bet it'll take a while but most of the oil will be inside the head so it won't be able to off gas much. The area that is exposed is also small. So it should be fine unless you like taking your freshly handled tools to bed.
when I rehandle, I put the new handled head into a bucket of BLO and leave it at least overnight. Those heads stay put for years.
@@Lagrange00 I'm not sure how long it takes, but I'm also not super worried about it. The key is it won't evaporate so the wood fibers will swell and stay swollen. The stuff exposed to air will polymerize first and seal in the rest. Eventually it will all polymerize and harden up, which is even better, but until it does that head isn't going anywhere. I usually let it drink all it can on the end grains and put pretty light coats on the rest of the handle. I find that if I go really heavy on the rest it gets quite gummy. Many very light coats over time are the way to go on that part imo
I personally do not glue my wedges as in my experience the handle gets loose but is still good , so i put some screws in and yank out the wedge and replace it
You should do a video on a shave pony for tool making!
or an add on to the low roman workbench
was suggested by my father as he recognized it as a schnitzelbank
He did ages ago, didn't he? It was an idea from Jennie Alexander to use a pipe clamp at the bench? No idea what happened to the video...
My first project this year was to build a shave horse (pony). Then I hit some yard sales with old tools and and found a draw knife. Then started looking for info on CZcams on how to use it and that's how I ran into Rex's Channel. Hard not to Binge watch. Hey Rex, any tips on sharpening a Draw knife?
OR, You could Just put in shave pony in the CZcams search window and find, probably 100 videos already made!
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Einfach & Wunderschönes Wochenende
I only had to watch 2 of your videos before subscribing and smashing the entire liver off of that bell icon. Thanks for all your work!
Perfect timing! I just started another axe restoration project. I will definitely watch this video when it is released.
NOTE: making a handle for a scythe is MUCH different than for an axe
since it has major curves you start with a piece that actually has grown in the shape you want, so less spokeshaving is used, and better strength
at least that was the bit I remember, but that was from a document 50-100 years old, new handles are probably not made like that any more
If your handle is 16 to 18 inches or less, the firewood most hardware stores and gas stations sell in my area of Georgia is all mostly hickory and oak. I’ve gotten some awesome stock out of those mesh bags.
Mr. Chickadee has a video on the subject.
Using one is a lost art
@@charlesmay8251 See Mr. Chickadee's vid. He explains how to use it, too..
If you need scythe handle or axe handle for that matter it’s best to start with green stock in the woods and rive to the shape you need whilst green.
I do all my handles this way. Put it in a hot place or even in the oven to dry and final fit it and you have a handle 10x better than anything made from sawn stock.
The best way to learn how to do this is study and make at least one self bow if you don’t like archery you can use it for your lathe 😎
There's a good video on the Skillcult channel about modding the metal wedges so you can get them out later. He undercuts the edges with a file to provide a lip so you can get an edge under it later to help you pry the bugger out.
As always, great video Rex!I learn so much from your channels, but for once perhaps I can return the favor and pass some useful information your way. In your video I was surprised you didn't bring up grain orientation in tool handle construction, especially for high impact tools such as hammers and axes. In short handles its less of an issue, but as you start crafting handles for longer tools, you ideally want the grain to 1) extend continuously from the head to the toe of the handle, and 2) you want the grain orientation to run in parallel with the striking arc (aka in parallel with the cutting edge of an axe). In the two handles you made, the grain is running at a 45 degree to the striking arc. Again, not a huge issue for a small handle, but for a large broad axe, your handle is more likely to split. A perpendicular orientation to the direction of force is the worst, and usually results in the handle splitting along the plane of the grain. Up here in Maine we use Ash for our handles, as hickory is harder to come by, but ash, hickory and white oak all make fine handles. I've also tried Osage orange which is extremely hard and still flexible, but i have never encountered a tougher wood to carve, and I think my tools instantly become dull at the mere sight of that Osage orange timber! Then again, I used it to make your woodworkers mallet, and the buttery yellow handle combined with a dark walnut head is a beautiful tool to look at.
I am delighted to see you put another extremely helpful woodworking video up for newbies!! I am learning so MUCH from you! Thank you Rex! Keep up the stupendous job!
Didn't realize until you brought up the Western Reserve blacksmithing association, that your based out of Ohio! Always cool seeing content creators I like from Ohio.
No drama, straight to point. Beautiful
Yesterday, without even seeing your video, I sat down and made a new handle for a rusty old Ball-Peen hammer I found in a bucket while cleaning out a house. It had a thin piece of conduit with tape and a brass screw hammered in to secure it as a handle.
Turns out, the hammer head seems to have a good quality steel, so i'm double pleased with my efforts.
Did it all with hand tools mostly on a lark as well!
Thx Rex... Didn't know where to start but you pulled me through this completely and I thank you.
PUSH A SPOKE SHAVE!!!!
BRILLIANT!
Why have I never thought of that? I move my body around, or move the work around. Just flipping the tool around and pushing it will be so much quicker!
Thank you.
My wood working plans took a weird turn on the drawing board recently. Always nice to see a new tutorial on this channel. I been thinking a lot and probably too much. Its a blue print. Love how Rex explains things as well. "Don't be a slave to your plans."
"Blacksmithing for Humans" channel in the near future? 😁 I'd sub the heck out of that!
Brilliant Rex, well paced, informative with great humour. You make the whole thing easy to follow and achievable. Thanks, Nev
Thanks for the tutorial on handles. I’m fourteen and learning smithy myself. To forge and anvil soon!
My favorite source for ash for smaller handles is broken shovel handles. Never throw one away.
Thanks for this video. I've been trying to make a handle and keep breaking it while shaping it. Will definitely attack the next one differently using these tips.
Bravo Rex- again a great breakdown of a basic/primary shop skill that is lost on many of today's big box DIY guys... One thing I do on my smithing hammers is soak them in BLO for a few days (just drop them head first in the bucket and let them sit. If you do this BEFORE you do the torch/sand/oil to the longer portion of the handle it will wick up a bit more oil into the head area. Treat the handle and seal the head end with beeswax. The oil will seep through the head area and stabilize over time- but wont readily "dry out" from the head end.
-If they ever look loose or with gaps- just soak them in the bucket a few days- works a treat!
-Be safe and as always- at peace Rex- looking forward to the next adventure!
I have a bunch of old hammer and axe heads, and I just recently acquired some draw knifes and spoke shaves. This seems like the perfect time to give them all a try. Thanks for the inspiration, and the encouragement to take the first step in a new endeavor.
I did it for my hammer and it came out better than i expected! Thank you rex for the inspiration and for teaching cool things
My son and I are definitely going to be putting new handles on a couple things. Thank you Rex!
I would add to your boiled linseed oil finish a trick from an "old timer" blacksmith. He'd rub beeswax over at least where your hand holds the handle and give it a buff with a rag, and that would be over the dried linseed oil. My experience is that if the weather is warmer, and you're swinging a tool a good deal, the beeswax and oil get slightly tacky giving a positive grip that avoids blisters. On the rare occasions I get a new tool or a store bought handle, the first thing I do is scrape the varnish off and apply boiled linseed oil and then rub beeswax on when it's dry. Varnish keeps the wood "shelf stable" at the store but it's hard on the hands when sweat makes your grip slick.
I'm a pretty avid smith and have to say that the last 18 years since I learned that trick the work blisters have pretty much ended.
This is THE BEST, tutorial I have found, your narration is on point, clear, understandable, video quality and everything is awesome>
Don't understand some channels and their lack of massive subscription numbers when they're this good.
Thanks Rex. I really appreciate the hard work that you are putting into making these videos, it’s really good info, and I am so glad to see this one right now. I am super excited to try my hand at making some handles for my tools!
Pretty fantastic work, Rex! Thanks for all the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I have found that if you trim your axe handle down to the point that it will not quite go in the axe head and then pop the axe head in the kitchen oven at around 200F for about 15 minutes they will fit like a glove. This is best done while the wife is out shopping.
Rex. I greatly enjoyed the video. You showed a lot of little bits of knowledge and tricks that I was fortunate enough to have had some highly experienced people (polite way of saying old as history) share their treasure trove of knowledge. I was glad to see your connection to the blacksmiths. My Grandpa was in both those categories and shared so much knowledge.
When going through all this work take the time to make sure the grain runs parallel to the tool head. For shovel/pitch fork handles the grain should be perpendicular to the head.
Ooh I really liked the blackened and oiled finish on the hammer. I have a couple relics laying around that needs handles, so I'm going try this technique for my finish too!
Thanks for the clear explanation. Nice job!
Wow! The trick with the torch is great 👍
Thank you for this video! I was shocked to see the wood burning/oil approach was something that was a thing other people did. I stumbled upon that randomly while in the shop a few years ago and find that it feels great in the hands (I've mostly done it for chisel handles). Thanks for sharing!
My small 2(Canadian cents...): I soak the the head part in BLO for a good hour, and the wedge . I did it like my grandfathers would do in the old days , since there wasn’t hide glue available easily , for carpenters. Naturally in those years they would take any oil/grease available. They idea is to « humidify » the fibres and to make slippery surfaces between the wedges/hammer’s head in order to knock the wedge down and to compress all the wood in the head section . Thank you for all your great videos . That was only my humble technique. Thank you for all your videos !
Another great video, Rex! Love the encouragement.
Just got a bunch of old tools from my grandfather, this will come in handy.
Well explained and encouraging for those wanting to make custom handles. Thanks you. Neil front 🇮🇪
Let me make the bad pun " after watching this video everyone should have a good handle on the subject" let the booing begin. lol
Boo!
ouch...
@@GergC0521 get your mummy to kiss your boo boo. : ) lol
@@clappercl Whoo - no need to cry about it.. : ) lol
I can't handle this play on words. Get a grip.
Excellent video sir! I inherited an old roofing hatchet from my wife's grandpa. It had the original handle and the design was junk! A couple months ago I fit a new handle by buying a replacement hatchet handle and reshaping it to fit the head and my hand. Worked like a charm! FYI, about 3 months ago or so I built your 2xWhatever scrap lumber stool... It's my absolute favorite stool now.
Handles (mostly ergonomic ones) account for about 70% of my wood sales. Last one was a purpleheart bow handle (Personal project) Definitely something more people should learn to make.
Another great video. Glad I found your channel, Rex. Keep doing what you're doing.
Thank you, I have been needing new handles for my tomahawks and was hesitant to try. Thanks for the encouragement
You talked about watching grain direction when shaving, but you forgot to watch grain direction when choosing how the handle was oriented in the head. The grain in the handle you made for the hammer was oriented almost 90 degrees off. When at all possible try to get the grain to line up with the length of the tool as much as possible. Your handles will have less of a tendency to break.
I learned this from my father.
I dont think i understand what you mean. Can you explain?
@@jamesbondo5895 You want the grain to run parallel to the head of the ax or hammer. If the grain of the handle runs perpendicular the flat gain will have a tendency to split especially if there is a curve in the handle that allows for runout.
This is an interesting subject. I have a heavy felling axe with a slender 36 inch ash handle where the grain is in the "wrong" direction. Despite heavy use, it refuses to break. Plus, it is very elastic meaning - shock absorbing, more than any other handle i have or had. The grain works like spring shock absorber, looks like. When splitting wood, it is equally easy to split along the rings as across the rings. Perhaps it is more about fiber runout in the handle which happens maybe easier when the grain is "wrong".
I always enjoy your video's, no matter what the content. Thanks, Rex
Great stuff man
Rex, this an excellent video. I am in the process of making a replacement handle for a small forestry axe. You mention of different woods was exactly what I needed since hickory in the thickness that I need is impossible to obtain in California. I thought about ash, but never considered white oak, which I will now look for.
Great video! Thanks for the sizing tips especially!
Hey Rex, I enjoyed the video! Interesting to see your method.
I recently did a hatchet re-haft for carving, and used a completely different approach. I have two videos about that on my channel, if you're curious. I used black locust, and I roughed in the handle while it was still green, and used an axe and knife for the shaping, and a block plane to fit the eye and shape the shoulder. I finished it with a hemp oil and beeswax paste, which is my favourite finish for handles.
My favorite wedge is beech that I found in a pallet.
Since none of the woods you mentioned grow in northern Norway, I went looking online for alternatives. A few local species suggested are birch, bird cherry and rowan.
Hazelnut...if ya got it.
@@rockdog2584
I live too far north for hazel to be native. There’s said you be some planted hazel trees one place in the village, but I’ve never seen them.
Great video Rex. As always.
Can't wait to find some old tools to make some handles for. Great video :)
Great material just finished my first axe anda pickaroon used WD40 and two stroke motor oil on another giving the wood a red tint, really like the WD40. IN the process of doing a double bit throwing axe,next up is a couple of digging forks.find this work very enjoyable and relaxing.
Very nice video. Thank you.
Great video!!!
Great video
Thank you! I needed that information.
There's a lot of axes with handles put on crooked (very bad for accuracy). This is a good useful skill to have!
My first metal working project was taking an old cheap rust hatchet head and making a viking looking ax out of it. The head cam out beautifully but I have failed on my handle attempts. Can't wait for this video so I can finish that project!
Great video. I did a search for just this and it's for the same head for a hatchet.
If you have a decent handle on your tool, but it's a little loose, you can soak the head in antifreeze overnight. Use the clear kind if you can. This will swell the wood and it won't dry out and shrink again. Hey Rex, can you show us how you would turn a handle using offset centers?
I tried the same thing with Boiled Linseed Oil and it also tightened up the head on my hammer.
Glycol antifreeze sweeps the wood with the liquid and the ‘sugar’ like element remains to keep the cells walls open when it dries. You can do the same with a saturated sugar solution. I used it to return mangle rollers from cracked back to round too.
Hey Rex, great video as ever. I always try to let one or two pre-roll ads run to completion (or to 30s) to give you ad revenue, but I ALWAYS skip mid-roll ads, and if I can’t skip those then I may just skip your video instead. PLEASE disable mid-roll ads for your videos!
There is a film called 'traditional Finnish house building process', here on CZcams. In the film, you see one of the guys using a side axe like yours, but he has a step wedge in the head, so he can tap it out and flip the head over to be used in the other direction. I thought it was interesting, although every one I've seen has the part of the handle that goes in the head steam bent or carved to put the user's knuckles out of line of the swing, and permanently fitted.
I usually put a lock wedge in mine.
Because when it eventually breaks,
It's probably not my problem anymore. 😂
Love your videos I have a few hawks and hatchet I need to replace keep up the good work!
I never planned on doing wood work, but I might do it one day if I can afford it 🤷🏽♂️
Nice job
Great video! Have a couple similar old hammers that I need to re-handle, but wasn't exactly sure how to do it - now I know.
Yes, me too, i have a heap of hammer heads and other tools that need handles. Great lesson here that i will use to
make a few for them. Thanks! i can do it!
Yea… it’s a geter done kinda thing, I made a red cedar hatchet handle and use it all the time for cutting 1.5 inch rope and roughing out other things. It’s a pretty beefy handle though and the purple ish pink knots look cool
Would love to see an update on this as your skills continue to reach godlike😉
I made a bowstaff from a white ash sapling. I tied it to a section of hog fence to straighten while it dried in the sun for a few weeks this summer. When it seemed to be dry enough, I used a hand plane and a scraper to smooth down the knots and reduce the butt end to about an inch and an eighth D. I did not totally eliminate the knot mounds. They help me register my hands when I'm practicing. Running and rotating staffs, walking sticks, etc. through a sacred fire really helps to harden and strengthen the wood. I built a nice fire, got some great coals, and slowly rotated and moved the staff through the heat. It took about an hour on the six foot staff. It got pretty hot. I put on my leather gloves which helped a lot. The finish is black, smooth, and shiny after a couple coats of boiled linseed oil and paste wax. There is a knot mound right at the center point. It swings oh so nice.
I picked up an old carpenter hammer at a yard sale this summer. The striking head is tapered and the claw is fully curved. I modeled a piece of 1" thick maple on the handle of my Stiletto titanium hammer - curved like a hatchet handle. It took me a while (no spoke shave yet) to get it shaped nicely. It looks pretty good and needs a finish.
Thanks for the video. Blessings to you and yours.
Mother good way to get old handles out. 🔥
Thanks for the knowledge , Rex !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im doing lots of axe handles after I get some hardwood so this is super handy!
Well done! Thanks
Wooo excited to see this
Thanks for the video rex I haven't seen it because it hasn't premiered yet but I'm sure it will be great. I kinda taught myself how to do handles I first made some wooden mallets and put handles and them. Then I found a hammer head at the flea market for 2$ and put a handle on that. I even went and put a handle on my grandpa's old hatchet.
Great video. I'm getting ready to convert an old broadaxe head into a Nordic style axe and was wondering how to get the best style handle. You've given me some great ideas. Thanks!
Maybe a piece of horn/cow hoove would work well for a locking wedge as a happy medium? I have a bunch of metal locking wedges that I am hesitant to use for the reasons you already stated.
Perfect timing, I just this week found a beautiful old carpenter's axe that needs a new handle.
I'm gonna buy a bunch of hammer heads and make a few before i replace the handle on my favorite one
Well Rex, I caught up with you.
I came over from uri tuchmans collaboration ( Been fallowing Uri for a long time)
And I liked your contact, so I did what I always do when I find a new creator I like.
I subbed and then watched every single video in chronological order untill I caught up with your most recent video. Which is this one.
Love the videos, keep being you dude.
This is a great video Rex! Though I am having some trouble with sharpening my old axe head by hand. It is very blunt and I'm not sure how to get a sharp and even cutting edge without machine tools. The angle especially is hard to determine and the head is obviously too large to use with a honing guide...
Here in Norway, birch (and ash) is traditionally used a lot for axe handles. Apparently because it absorbs vibrations better than woods like oak and hickory, thus allowing one to work harder/longer with less pain in the arms due to vibrations.