Making MORE POWER for FREE on your Motorized Bike!
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- Motorized bike kits tell you to use a 20:1 mix ratio of gas to oil after the break-in period. Don't. In this video I go over why you should use a 32:1 or 40:1 mix ratio of gas to oil, and why it is beneficial to your engine in every way including power, powerband, RPMs, climbing ability, cruise speed, the longevity off the engine, price, and more. Thanks for watching - feel free to comment feedback or suggestions.
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If you like what you've seen, and wanna see more, you can follow my instagram to see sneak peaks and updates: @everet.janzen - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This video seems to be blowing up, is anyone else interested in more motorized bike content? Like or comment this if you want more
Add a nitro kit.......
@@troy6882 I would!... if they weren’t a sham and they actually did something. czcams.com/video/0q7SSjfKclc/video.html
@@Everatti that's a boost bottle, not nitrous lol
@@mrbanana7167 true lol
you want to go faster take the 10mm tool take muffler baffle. no need to go with this b.s oil mix
I put 16:1 my first tank, then went to 32:1 4 years later still runs great!
That’s awesome haha
Did you only do 1 tank or 2 for the break in period
32:1 exactly what?
oil to gas @@jesusgutierrezgarcia1449
@@jesusgutierrezgarcia1449lol
Good video mate, you can tell you speak straight from the heart, witches a great quality for a person to have, keep up the good work mate 🇦🇺
40 to 1 is totally fine especially for using Lucas Oil
I use 40:1 with a comp head, and banana exhaust, a hp carb with the stock jet from the stock carb, and a lean mixture in a 50cc, and I swear that thing trucks under load if its not in a high rpm range when it goes up a hill. I dont know how much power it makes, but I swear the sucker has 3 or more hp, I also tested this morning full throttle with the clutch out, and it went up to 8 thousand rpm just stationary. and please don't say "your ruining the engine with a lean mixture" because me and my friend diagnosed that it was 4 stroking all the time, and I just leaned it out, it runs so much better now. the problem is, you get it over 5500 rpm and it starts 4 stroking, aswell as idle.
I always use premix 40:1 from the start to finish. I use Husqvarna 95 octane and add oil to it for my mix. I also made a wire bracket to carry an emergency bottle.
I’m making mine soon another guy told me to use 40:1 so I just did some research first. How’s your bike W years later?
Also, Everett here. Thanks for all the great educational videos. You know your stuff. You are going to be my main reference for an upcoming project.
Just got my first start up on mine about 7 hours ago. Good to know and I will keep this in mind after I finish my premixed gas that I got from my neighbor. I do need to find a fuel line though.
The heavy oil mix on the break in is more for the bearings and seals than it is for the piston, rings, and cylinder. Easy way around this for me has always been to use petroleum jelly on the wrist pin needle bearings and a mix of said petroleum jelly and 2 stroke oil in the lower crank and con-rod. Prevents the dry run startup but dissolved away relatively quickly without creating issues once the engine is run. Want to really help the cylinder then take the cylinder off and clean the crap out of it and the piston, lightly chamfer the ring edges (then clean) and then oil everything during assembly with straight 2 stroke oil. Yes, this does mean you have to take the motor apart to do all of the above, but I always do anyway since the case seals are often installed like crap, and the level of fine metal debris inside said engines is disturbing.
agreed, I take er apart, deck her up nice, check for over-hang, etc then coat her good with two stroke oil to help with the first dry start. I have heard mixing a bit of vasoline in there with the two stroke oil, like say on the wrist pin and bearings, etc, works wonders. I have a block rn I got to put a new piston, wrist-pin bearing and rings on, so I will be trying a bit of vasoline with the oil as well. I want to use the old cylinder from the motor when the piston failed but there is a small spot where a peice of the ring scratched the cylinder wall, it's not horrible and as a matter of fact still appears to be plated in that small area. But I can feel it when I rub my finger across it. I suppose I could try the jug, after dremling out the overhang, and just see. I meanI have never seen such nicely done ports from the factory (the over hang was below the port areas), so I really want this cylinder to go to use again. That was the first and last motor I run out of the box. I now always pull the head and jug, deck and Pre-Check, etc.
Thank you for the great video and information! true that! not to mention there will be far less smoke and oil on the ground, so far more environmentally friendly! You take care brother
You made this on my last birthday, thanks!! That's good advice, and in truth, you can tell the quality of the burn, by the color of the spark plug. You can lean out the oil until it has a nice brown color on the inner electrode, you probably won't get away from some oily residue, but as long as it doesn't go white, you won't be too lean. A better carburetor can probably be found in a motorcycle junk yard. Thanks, it's good to see you diving into this, reminds me of many decades ago.
Thanks for the feedback! I’m sure a mikuni off of a an old cr60 or kx60 would work awesome.
@@Everatti Thank you, Everatti, I'm building a small woods bike, for my friend's kids, and a wheel chair for going in the woods, for a friend who is paraplegic, and your video was helpful in seeing how it ran, and the accurate info. I just found a "pull start" for the 80cc two stroke, for about fifteen bucks, on ebay, don't know if you are interested, but saved me from having to make a starter. Keep up the videos, and what ever it is you do that is valuable, and enjoyable. You are in your "glory days", go for it, you sound enthusiastic and professional, you've got a good thing going. My Best.
@@johnmcclain3887 That’s an awesome idea! I’ve heard the pull starts are a good upgrade, but I’ve never needed one as I’ve only had the 80ccs on bikes, so bump starting is easy. The encouragement is very appreciated. Have a great day man 👋
Honestly I found the baofeng carburetor to be one of the best carburetors for these Motors. The only downside to it is it has that restrictive air box on it. Like the original poster did and like I did, drilling a couple of holes in the intake box definitely does not hurt. If you're lucky you'll be able to find one of those low-profile cone filters, that aren't K&N but it's basically the same idea, and there's your high-performance carburetor in my opinion. Because with these high performance carburetors what you're getting is something where you can play around with the Jets as well as eliminating that restricted airflow box which is the main thing. Take that box off your carburetor completely and you will feel a difference. However I wouldn't recommend running it like that for too long. So for me if I can't find one of those low profile cone filters that match to the factory bofang carb. Probably what I'll do is just hack the airbox, use high-quality vacuum hose, hose clamps, and mount the cone filter for the performance carburetor on it. And to me there's your performance carburetor. And if you find yourself really needing the change the Jets out for wide open throttle you can do that to the OEM Bofang. Myself I'm 500 to 1000 ft above sea level and I find the jet that's in the carburetor from the factory to be perfect. That is for my elevation. And talkin about spark plug colour yes the oil may change that but what you're looking for is an nice caramel like colour, regardless of what your oil to fuel mixture is. For example you could be running that ridiculous 16:1 and if you have the C clip on the needle to the leanest setting you will very quickly find out, if you don't blow your motor first, that you're going to get a very lean looking colour on your plug regardless of what you're running for oil ratios. I just want people to keep that in mind and not just think adjusting the oil ratio is going to correct air fuel ratio issues. Those are two different animals altogether. At my elevation using the OEM carburetor with a few holes drilled into the airbox, the clip on the needle set to the third Notch up, (basically right in the middle) works perfect for me. If I go one notch up it runs too lean, if I go one notch down it runs too rich. That 100% tells me that my jet size (70mm, I think) is bang on for the elevation that I'm at. Just something that people should keep in mind before spending money on a performance carburetor, trying to get more performance when there could be other issues causing performance loss. What everyone should do, Imho, is Get your factory one set perfect for your elevation before even thinking about a performance carburetor and like I said I don't you think they're necessary as long as you can get rid of that restrictive airbox and get a cone filter on it. Then that is your performance carburetor, provided your jet size is correct for your elevation. Again that it's just an opinion from educated as well as my personal experience. I would love to know other people's opinions on that🙏
Wow bro! Thank you a ton for this info, awesome video! Picking up a similar looking bike for $175 tomorrow and already looking to mod it out haha but going to start with this tip first 👌
Your good at teaching, keep up the good work!
Great video, looking forward to more, you really explain well.
Thanks so much!! As I’ve seen all of the positive feedback on this vid, I think there’ll be more coming soon 😉
Popular Mechanics did an article explaining the differences in using a lot of oil vs a little. There was actually very little difference. The piston wear was exactly the same. Yet the ring wear was slightly different. The compression was exactly the same. I run 32 to 1 from the day its born to the day it dies.
40:1 is the ratio 2 strokes have been using forever, I see 32:1 I just believe 40:1 was the original calculation to give you the best power and endurance ratio.
50:1
@@nikitamorozov1897 Tiny pp like em dry.
One thing I got to say about the compression ratio being exactly the same when running a richer oil mixture that may be true until the carbon buildup between your piston and your cylinder head starts, at which point your compression will go up. And if it continues to build up enough carbon it will eventually start contacting with your spark plug. So in my opinion, running a very rich oil ratio for a long period of time will eventually cause the compression to go up on your motor until you get a catastrophic failure or really need to rip into it to clean all the carbon out.
I've seen this happen on cars with 4-stroke Motors that had a lot of of carbon build-up due to wearing rings causing "blow-by"
@@nikitamorozov1897I've Heard lots of people say that, I'm not brave enough to go. Lean. I'll stick with 32 to 1 and maybe go to 40 to 1 eventually. Right now on 24:1 cuz I'm still breaking the Motor In. But regardless of everyone's different opinions this is a great discussion because it's discussion that no one can really settle on. But it's good to see the different people's experiences with different oil ratios
32:1 mix and 87 Octane (best for low compression engines).
Thanks Everet, I'll try out your advice !
I know I've made a lot of comments already but another tip I want to toss in there, that I've learned as if you're the type person like me that will tear into these blocks and do a few things before starting them, then you'll have the opportunity to coat the crank in the cylinder walls with 2-stroke oil before reassembling and starting for the first time. In my opinion they helped us so I didn't have such a dry start on its first turnover
Dude thanks a lot my engine would not get to high rpm until it was fully warmed up and the exhaust gasket would splatter oil on my knee when I was driving and I was using 16:1 and now I am going to try 32:1 now and I took the filter out of my intake and it runs a million times better and flows good at high rpm!!!
No problem!! That’s awesome good for you
What is the benefit of taking out the filter? Im having a bike kit aswell🙃
@@maximroos6893 Allows way more air and less 4 stroking
Cool video and thanks for your time man. I enjoyed it
Thanks so much!
i ran 40:1 since day one and its been running great since. its been 2 years
Hi I also live in BC, (Delta) and have a Zeda YT 80/100 (I think) kit. Im rockin' a few performance / QOL aftermarket parts (stinger flex-pipe exhaust, reed-valve intake manifold, and spring-loaded chain tentioner)
What im doing for my break-in period is/was a 16:1 "witches brew" of multiple 2stroke oils, conventional and synthetic blended together. only one 2 liters tank of this mix.
after that (now at the time of this post) im running 25:1 for the next 8L. (this stuff is 1/2 the 16:1 mix from before and 1/2 a double-strength mix of "OPTI-2" oil.
Once I run out of 16:1 to blend in with it, I'll go with just 50:1 OPTI-2 (normal mixing is 100:1 Believe it or not and it will not burn up old chainsaws running it)
As it stands my engine is running quite rich. I hope I can break her out of this phase.
I had an 80 (66) cc, maker unknown, that I ran on 50-1 for a almost two years as a daily driver. It hauled my 200+ lb. ass and large loads of groceries around just fine. Then, one day it missed a stroke and 'tinkled'. Luckily, it was only a few more blocks home. When I tore it down, I discovered that the wrist pin was DEEPLY scored and that had allowed 2 of the needle bearings to escape and do a high speed polka on the head and piston which broke the top ring, which scored the piston and everything nearby. Moral of the story; a higher ratio of oil to fuel is necessary if you are carrying higher loads. I don't think I am going to weigh less any time soon, so I am not going to run less than 40-1 from here on out. Maybe if Royal Purple made a 2 stroke oil...
😁First and foremost Everatti. You are so good breaking down on how to mix the fuel the right way. Excellent job. Im gonna run 40:1 on my new 100cc 2 stroke I'm putting in. Now it's my turn to school you on how to calculate your mpg. First of all you'll need a digital speedometer. Dont matter what kind. Next, Fill the gas all the way up. Now, set your distance, or range to zero. Do not mess with it until you ran out of gas. Now calculate the miles that you put on the bike. For example: if you do 70 on miles on full half of tank, (Actually it really is .60 gallon) do it just like this. 70÷.50=144. And there's you're m.p.g. (144 m.p.g.) Simple isn't it?
Thanks a lot! That’s a helpful tip. I’ll use that. I’ve actually got a digital speedometer on my bike, so that’ll work perfect!
@@Everatti Anytime 😁👍🏼
I accidently broke my engine in using 80 to 1 and checked the cylinder walls and piston and almost no scoring at all! These things a beasts for being Chinna made
Lmao this makes me happy to read
I agree with what you're saying! Solid stuff
Thanks for the video very helpful, I'm on my first build I need about a half a tank on my first starting my full tank and I was confused of how to do it thanks again
No problem!
You have to do it to give lubrication and helping the internals. Giving too much oil, even synthetic will provide the way too much build up inside the engine. 2 stroke engine setups have been rated 40:1 gas oil for a long time and is all it needs for break in. It is not going to soften the break in on the metals providing more oil. The real focus on breaking the engine in is to essentially caress and raise it. Small opening on the throttle and giving it different ranges, not keeping it at the same opening. What's happening is the allow is shaping, givin the amount of force around it. Keep fluctuating throttle, and work it up and she will give you a long life time with reg maintenance. Have a great day bro!
Gurgling is probably 4 stroking. High oil content or maladjusted carb can cause this. Chain saws and weed wackers don’t require break in high oil. I don’t do that. 40:1 start to finish. Never had a problem
Hey man I’m your 500th sub keep it up
Thanks man!!
Nice info man just built my first build its good to have info
Good job buddy! Keep it up.
16:1 ratio is strictly for breaking in your bearings and seals during the break in period... Then you can move it to 40:1...
Wow this video is incredible. Great work man. Stay safe
Thanks!!
@@Everatti I have wanted to make an 80cc motorised bike for a while now.. How do they do up hills? The engine i want to order apparently is 6hp peak..
@@gelentertainment5871 They do fine up hills. I live an a very hilly part of Canada and they do great, especially if you leave the stock 44 tooth sprocket.
I have a 100cc motorized bike kit and it barely reaches 35mph when I try tuning the carb it doesn’t change a thing any Solutions
I broke mine in at 20:1, and now i use 40:1, and yes while I was doing break-in there was tons of oil coming out the muffler.
Use a 16:1 at first on a new engine for the sake of the wear in period (it gives that extra lubrication for the new parts shaving off metal fragments during the first couple hours of operation.). I run 32:1 in mine after break-in period, it works perfectly 😁
Hey man good video thanks for the tip yeah I got two motorized bikes right now one Cruiser one Chopper I use Amsoil and it says it's 100 to 1 but I use a little more keep up the videos Man rob from Vancouver Canada
Heyy awesome!! I’m from Abbotsford
Great video
Very informative
Thank you for sharing
👍👍
I used 16:1 on my first tank just to break in. Then I've been using 32:1 mix for the past 3 years. My engine still runs amazing. I haven't seen a huge difference between name brand oils (Lucas, Castrol etc) however Amsoil seems to work the best for me.
32 what?
@@jesusgutierrezgarcia144932 parts gas 1 part oil or 4oz of oil for 1 gallon of gasoline
is there a two stroke motor for a bicycle that u can ride atleast 80 miles straight through without haven to stop every once in a while
Lived that and have been doing it myself for a year now. I really don't even measure. I just pore a little and go. Works awesome for power and carbon buuld-up but uses more ⛽
very helpful video. very good explanation!
Thanks!
One more comment I want to make a boat how you noticed a difference when you leaned the oil mixture out after your break-in. I wholeheartedly agree with you and I would say that's because you don't have a spark trying to fire off not just the fuel like it's supposed to but whole bunch of excess oil which is definitely like putting low-octane fuel in or adding a little bit of water to your fuel in other words your fule (high octane or not) will simply not burn as good as it has all that oil affecting how it flashes off. When it comes to the oil ratios you very much know what you're talkin about.
I just go 20-1 on break in rhen run 40-1 for life after that....have 3 different setups and none have failed me and are all years old at this point 💯
Good video bro..i use Royal Purple full synthetic at 40:1 currently done 5 builds and trying to not build anymore until I actually break one lol careful they're addictive
Yeah haha! I want like 3 more now. One for racing, one for commuting and hills, and one for trails 😆
@@Everatti my thoughts exactly lol
I wanted to know what petrol number would fit my bike 100cc and oil
Very good informative video my friend. Subscribed. I haven't finished watching the video but I like how you explain how a two-stroke works for people who don't really understand it. And yeah, suck bang, blow...that's what she said 😂. And you're right that Manuel is very much a garbage just toss it in there. Go by people who know what they're doing these types of videos exist for a reason. Its us customers who do the quality control for these guys and figure things out where they went wrong. So the makers of these motors they get all their quality control and Factory testing done on the customer then they listen to customer feedback. Smart and annoying at the same time because it's our money that fixes their issues.
Hey bud just sub cause just came across my feed, so lookin forward to seeing what’s up. I gotta agree don’t hold it wide open for long time but that’s zero fun brother so I def vote to hold it wide open it’s way more fun but that’s also why I’m always fixin mine...
I have been riding mine wide-open every day for several months now and just pour a little in. No measuring. I figured out to use less oil to use increase speed and stay cleaner from less carbon buuld-up
Shit, at $100 for a complete replacement motor...why not beat the shit out of em"
40:1 is good with synthetic or synthetic blend I to use Lucas
50 to 1 is what i have always run 6 years and 13,000 miles still runs great.
Whaaat!!? That’s crazy… I didn’t think these little engines could get even that many miles! 🤯
@@digitalventuremovement7680 they don't 💯
I just got one of these motorized bikes last week and I put 50:1 that I was using in my weedeater 🤣
@@Jarrod_D like any saying if you take care of it it will last quite a while I wound up with 13900 miles before that engine finally gave up the ghost.
@@digitalventuremovement7680 you take care of it it'll get you there this one got me 13900 miles before it died
And the reason why the simple designed motor does work with mixed gas, like many two strokes. Is because it uses a needle bearing which does not require pressure in the crankcase to lubricate. Some two-stroke designs folr say dirt bikes, etc have a splash paddling the crankcase the sloshes the oil up into the cylinder area/crank. These motors are as simple as a two-stroke gets
You would foul the spark plug a lot faster at 16 to 1:00 then you would at 32 or 40 to 1. You will oil fill those spark plugs at 16 to 1 or 20 to 1.. run 40 to 1 from day 1
So what type of gas use with it?
Thank you 32 to 1 on a 80 cc I got a aluminum trek I'm trying to find out how to make it faster
I used to use 26:1 when I had a motorized bike. It was my daily for 3 years. Thing wouldn't die. Biggest problem was going through back wheels like they were chewing gum !
That's exactly the issue I'm having right now. I really need to get Magnums but I can't afford them right now I got too much dumped into trying to work with motors that were being sent to me that were junk. Now I finally got the actual proper motor that will last only the start getting chain derailment issues because of the way my shity rear Rim is as well as the way I mounted the sprocket. Frustrating because I want to get on my two wheels and go
Same
hey man, so i recently just finished building my 2 stroke 80cc bike and i put in what the manuel sugested aka 16:1 for the break in period. I noticed that it eats up a whole tank in under 30 miles, do you know what it does that, also I ordered a smaller sprocket so the rpms will go down when i go 35mph
That’s probably just how much fuel the thing uses. Once you lean it out it might use less.
Thanks for information. Keep it up
Hey is it ok to buy the premixed fuel from home Depot? They have 40:1 and 50:1, and it says it uses 92 or 93 octane in the fuel mix
You can get away with the 40:1 no problem. Don’t use the 50:1 though, in my opinion it’s too lean of an oil mix.
I've ran used motor oil for 4,000 miles in my 66cc kit (Since new about 5 year ago) Around the 3,000 mile mark the spark plug gap started closing up. I found the wrist pin and wrist pin bearing were worn. I replaced the top end (with original cyclinder that I sanded by hand to break the glaze) and it's been fine since. I run a thicker mix, probably 32:1, but I'm not even scientific about it anymore. I'd bet I saved enough on oil to buy another 66cc kit. Never even fouled a spark plug.
Which gas should I use
Thank you for that bc i messed up 3 all ready from not doing the right thing i just put a little bit of oil in in ran it
Informative video! Just built one too.
I use 40:1 2 stroke and it works perfectly fine for me On my motorized bicycle. Makes it run smooth and superfast.
The engine I am getting recommends 16:1 and once its boken in then 25:1, is this good or should I just go to 32:1/40:1 once its broken in.
Yeah just go to 32 or 40 or something in between that once it’s broken in.
I use 50:1 in mine and it’s been fine for the last 2 years
Did you change the C- Clip in the carburetor when you started using a leaner mix? I think that's a necessary step you left out.
Nope I didn’t actually! The clip from the factory was 1 down, and it was too rich. After doing mods to it, it actually runs perfect now! I’ve even got the plug heat range dialled. Good point though, probably should have mentioned something about that
I go 39 how can i make it go faster ?
I use about 25-1 for break-in and 50-1 the rest of the time. Been running that for 1 and 1/2 years with no problems.
I’m using 8 ounces of oil per gallon of gas for the break in period, after the first 200 miles the manual actually says to start using 32:1 or 4 ounces of oil per gallon of gas. 200 miles is 1 gallon of gas or about 1.5 tanks as most of these bikes have 2.5 liter tanks. You’ll also want to tune the idle on your carburetor, and make sure to check the torque on your cylinder head bolts. It should be around 11, as that’s the standard for most of these bike motors. Don’t torque the head bolts more for higher pressure, it creates more strain on the bolts and creates the risk of sending a piston head right into your buttocks.
Sick man 😀💪 subbed 🤙🔥
Thanks for the support!!
Hey I ran my bike that im just breaking in with the gas off on accident and it sputtered out and died after 10 mins of riding and after that i turned the fuel on and the bike started fine but feels like acceleration isn't as good but I may be overthinking it because I still reach top speed I recorded earlier. When someone does that to their bike on accident does it usually make a problem occur or do you think im just imagining things thinking the acceleration is worse? I tend to overthink things lol
You might be overthinking it haha. I wouldn’t worry about it, I’ve ran out of gas before and it’s fine. No problems would occur unless you repeatedly tried to start it with no fuel and gas mixture to lubricate the cylinder and piston.
I have a motorized bicycle i have been using 20:1 mix ratio. How much oil do you use for the 32:1 mix ratio?
Depends how much gas you have to begin with. For 1 liter of gas, you need 31ml of oil for a 32:1 ratio.
Thank you for that info i think that was awesome advice . Now i can check off that question. My name is Mike
Could you use 50-1 on these bikes. All my 2 stroke engines use it wondering if it’s safe to put that mix on it
Hey there. I’m sure you could use 50:1 but in my opinion it’s a little lean. I personally would stick to 40:1 or less. I’m sure it would run, but in the long run you might prematurely wear your engine from the lack of oil lubrication
Getting my 2 stroke bike build getting built while watching this video 👍🏻
How's things going so far?
@@christianbooker1190 it went great. Only issue I ever had with the bike was the float got stuck open one day and had to push it home like 4 miles. Otherwise I love it.
Where is your c clip at on your needle
You are absolutely right
Awesome video
I had an 80 (66) cc, maker unknown, that I ran on 50-1 for a almost two years as a daily driver. It hauled my 200+ lb. ass and large loads of groceries around just fine. Then, one day it missed a stroke and 'tinkled'. Luckily, it was only a few more blocks home. When I tore it down, I discovered that the wrist pin was DEEPLY scored and that had allowed 2 of the needle bearings to escape and do a high speed polka on the head and piston which broke the top ring, which scored the piston and everything nearby. Moral of the story; a higher ratio of oil to fuel is necessary if you are carrying higher loads. I don't think I am going to weigh less any time soon, so I am not going to run less than 40-1 from here on out. Maybe if Royal Purple made a 2 stroke oil...
Question, my gas scooter calls for 25:1, i believe that would be the break in period. After I can go 32:1 or 40:1. Now if I switch to 32:1 or 40:1 do I have to manually adjust the carburetor idle and fuel mix screws? If I wanted to do a weeks test for each mix and check the plugs for fouling, and do comparisons on temperatures with different fuel mix, isn't it important to adjust the carburetor each time to the correct fuel mix after it warms up??
Yes I would adjust the mix on the carburetor for each time you do that. Generally if your up jet or tube it richer, the idle will get lower. And down jet or tune leaner the idle will raise up. The rest you’ll have to tune based on your own scenario and desired outcome. Hope that helps
How did your tests go using 32:1 or 40:1 mixture on a 25:1 gas scooter? I also have a gas scooter that calls for 25:1, so I'm wondering how it will affect the overall performance of the engine changing to 32:1 or 40:1
@@raidonh9459 I used one of those amazon cups that have the mixture lines for 25:1. If it calls for 25:1, I would put it. Then over time you can increase to 32:1 after putting in lots of hours of use. You will notice that on 25:1 it uses more oil but if you think of it the life span of the engine will be longer because its better lubricated.
@@raidonh9459 I would test 25:1 and 32:1 and make sure to tune the carb with the screw. Test both out and you will notice which one is more consistent. I tried 32:1 on mines and after running it max rpm for like 15 minutes, it stalled after I came to a stop. I noticed that it might not be lubricated well enough and it seizes. Meaning, it needs 25:1 and it has not seized yet on hard running.
@@raidonh9459 Do what the owners manuals states and try to tune the carb. Make sure you get one of those RPM readers that wrap around the spark plug and tells you the RPM. after warm up, you will run at max and when you tune it, you will see where it gives you the max RPM.
I’ve had my bike on 50:1 right out the box and my bike runs perfect
what do you mean? like you bought the one that is already mixed and everything? thanks.
@@El7IncA Naa i mean like after i built it and everything i mixed 50 to 1 and been running off that since
See I just un-pause the video you run 32:1 I think that is a good ratio. And it's a great compromise between the 24:1 the factory reconends and the 40:1 alot of the old school guys swear by. I find 32:1 to be perfect. I run castrol "Go" low carbon deposit formula. Still not synthetic tho. Never run synthetic, imho. But I notice you your semi or full synthetic and you find you have no issues? Do you break in using synthetic oil as far as I know that's a No-No. But hey it worked for you man sweet. I do know this about synthetic oils though once you go synthetic you can't turn back on any motor. At first I was running ever-ready outboard motor oil and it works great. Me personally I'll stay away from the synthetics but if it works for you all the power to you my man
Usually, manufacturers of the motors set it a little richer(more oil in gas) than it needs. They do it because if you run it too lean(less oil in gas) chances are greater that it'll blow-up.
Dudeeee, i dont know if you will see this but thank you sooooo much. When i got my engine i was 13 (it was in the winter because i was bored) and in 2 months im 15... I was running 15:1 the whole time because the instructions said it and there was black oil every where also the cylinder head and all us complete full of oil. I thought maybe i had to much fuel and to low air, than i changed the fuelfilter and nothing helped... A few days ago my bike broke down and now i wanna build a gokart with the same engine.
I collectet a lot of experience in the past two years and made an apprenticeship as an mechanic so maybe i could even try to supercharge it.
My question is: if the motor will run aqain how do i change the mixture? Can i instant just go from 15:1 to 30:1 or do i have to do small "steps"?
Congrats on your apprenticeship! I’ve researched a bunch on these engines, I don’t think it’s possible to supercharge them, especially being two strokes. But definitely go ahead and try! And for your question, changing the mixture immediately is perfectly fine for it, it won’t hurt anything whatsoever. I’d go anywhere from 32:1 - 40:1, it’s up to you. If you get it running you’ll notice a massive power difference! And it smoke and leak a lot less than what it used to do. Hope that helps!
- Everet
@@Everatti well, thanks very much for your answer. Aight, when its running again imma fuel it up with 32:1 and then ill try to supercharge it, but off course it wont be easy😅
Have a great day!
So 4 oz right ?
More oil means higher viscosity which means it will change how it is jetted into the carb. Thicker liquid means not as much will get jetted into the carb, so it might actually not be getting enough oil even though you are using a strong oil/fuel mix.
What are your thoughts about that, is there any validity?
You are correct
yesterday i used a big 24mm carb with a big manifold, it was alright tbh! it started and idled nice, it was faster but power varied and was just unpredictable, fuel usage was good.
it would not run with a air filter, it was not loud tho.
then i fitted a cheap new 19mm slide carb, to my surprse it ran so rich it just spluttered and smoked, maybe something was wrong, i will check the jet size today, it should be #60.
anyway, it seems the original carb is best so far!
Honestly, I agree. Although they aren’t Mikunis or anything, I think they’ve proven themselves well! Never ever had an issue with the NT speeds.
So 25ml oil for ever 1Liter of petrol enough or 🧐
He’s right I’ve been using Lucas 2 stroke oil for 5 years it’s the best on the market I can get a quart for $9.00 bucks and that’s it’s better than that other crap out there I’ve got a BT 80 electric start 2stroke for 2 years now same one daily driver I use a 36 to 1 mix no problem rpm’s are good a lot of hp , I’ve changed a few carbs out, electrical components on the BT 80 , muffler, a spark plug. But no damage in the engine inside.
How fast should my 80/60cc go after 100 miles and doing 32/1?
Is it completely stock? If so, it should max out at 45-50 km/h
Just got my bike I been had my motor should be riding soon
Nice
40:1 3.2 (ounces of oil to one gallon ) from the cradle to the grave (from brake-in until the end)!!!
Thanks 🙏 that is the simple answer I was searching for My goodness it took 2yrs🤨
I use 40:1 but how long is brake in period?
@@colevisuals111 2 tanks is a safe bet
Use an oil that’s JASO FD rated. That’s the highest rating for air cooled 2 stroke oil.
So a gallon how many oz’s of 2cycle oil do I use
4 ounces of oil for 1 gallon of gas at a 32:1 mix.
Is it ok to use 1on 50 or is that to less
That’s a little lean in my opinion. I wouldn’t run leaner than 40:1
Just blew up my bike, and now I’m here
Wow that sucks haha
so i just bought my first kit, i have not even run a full tank of 16:1 yet and it will not start without me pouring some gas down the spark plug hole, after i do that it runs fine, does anyone know whats going on?
If it only does that from a cold start there’s nothing wrong. You just need to put the choke on haha. Check your plug color as well, and see what it tells you. I could probably narrow the issue down a bit if you were a bit more specific
@@Everatti it does that even after 20 to 30 mins of riding even with the choke on but thanks for the help
@@978_danny5 okay, take the spark plug out. What color is it? If it’s brownish then the mix is perfect and it’s not the issue. If the plug is whitish, it’s running too lean, which explains it only wanting to run on choke. If it’s black, it’s running too rich, which is probably because of the 16:1 break in ratio.
@@Everatti so should i go straight to 32:1 or 40:1?
@@978_danny5 If you’ve gone through a full tank, then sure. Go easy on it though. I’d only do 32:1 to start. If that doesn’t fix anything, come back here and I can try to help. Oh yeah, with 32:1 it’s gonna feel way faster too lol. Good luck
dope vid I subbed
50 to 1 will make more power and is far from hurting the bike u can run 100 to 1 with amsoil and I know a lot of people who do for chainsaws and they keep them tapped out for long periods of time while milling and bucking big logs
Although I think these would run on 50:1, I don’t think it’s good for them long term. They are very horribly machined and manufactured engines and they need every fighting chance to run for a very long time. I wouldn’t run anything leaner than 40:1 on these engines. The performance difference between 40 and 50:1 is going to be very negligible but most likely shorten your engine’s life long term.
So to me the reason the manufacturer wants you to use really heavy oil at first is because the engines are full of burrs dirt and metal chips and with the excess oil it's should help clean it out without too much damage. Atleast that's what I think the manufacturer thinks.lol
My first tank (technically second because I added way too much oil) Im doing 24:1 for the break in