This is a very cool tool. Just received mine and along with the tips from the video, it's making a huge difference already. Yes of course, all the reed adjustments are doable with a Stanley knife blade, (as my dad taught me 40 years ago), but this tool just makes it very easy and far safer. I find I can make simple adjustments quickly that actually make a difference immediately to my sound.
First night with the ReedGeek, and wow, it really does work. And this video lesson really made the difference, as far as getting the techniques, and the theory of what you're doing. I had 3 reeds that definitely had NOT been playable, and after a few minutes with the ReedGeek, they played great. By the way, before this, I had been using the Vandoren Glass Reed Resurfacer and Reed Stick, to do the same type of adjustments. But the results with the ReedGeek were quicker and easier to do. Thanks.
Michael, Thanks so much for your Feedback!...It always makes me happy when players are learning and experiencing the benefits of balancing and 'Geekin' their reeds!!...Mauro
Thanks again. I understand we have a mutual friend, Kurt Heisig, of Monterey. Kurt was the person who convinced me to try the ReedGeek. Just tonight I pulled out a new reed from a box I had put away years ago, and in less than a couple minutes with ReedGeek I was recording with it.
Best advice I have seen from a dozen tutorials. I use a stanley blade. (Please don't copy) putting a very light pencil mark is great, you can take of the pencil and remove very little cane.
Hi Tom....as per the reed diagram on the video and which can be downloaded at ReedGeek.com, I would do a little bit of scraping/blending with the ‘Geeks profile tip. This would be on the “ears of the reed” section C and working towards the spine in a circular motion lightly using the profile rounded section of the ReedGeek’s tip like a pencil eraser. Lastly, use the flat planing edges of the ‘Geek perpendicular across the nose/ tip of the spine to flatten the tip area lightly scraping up and off the tip to promote a quicker vibration to the tip....I hope this helps as these are the area to help the final voicing of the higher notes (F). I will try to post another video of this very soon! Mauro
ReedGeek The VanDoren ground-glass tool make some incremental scrapings easily and, if done on a moist read, will shave the kapok from the underside. Giving closer, flatter reed contact. Done under running water prevents the glass from clogging with reed debris. And testing the reed pliability against the tongue is much more sensitive than fingers.
Just bought the G4, and it's just great ! I am a beginner, in my first year of learning saxophone, and I have almost 2/3 of my reeds that are difficult to play, and it cost me a lot. Today I first try the G4 to work on them with the gauge set, and I already saved 6 reeds that was hard to play and now they are pretty good ! Already saved money on the first day :D Great tool !!!! (For now I work only on the back of the reed and it's already good for me :)) ... I thought about your "boom" when I used the gauge set haha
Hello Mauro. Where would you work on a reed as per your digram, to bring back note High F. I loose high notes when the rest of the reed is still great? Tom
Hi Warren, Both the Classic and G4 will work on all synthetics. The Bullet was designed to not only excel on cane reeds but work extremely well on the Legere polymer. ...Mauro
This tool really works fine, good work, I have one since some years. It is ok that you want to have a good price to generate enough income. But 60 Euros/70 US$ for a simple small piece of metal seems very overpriced to me comparing the production costs, sorry. 30 Euros would be more than enough.
Dear Ruediger, ReedGeek's are very costly to produce (higher than the cost to produce many vital woodwind accessories--I'm often amazed that players have no problem spending 60-200 Euro on ligatures) .Don't be fooled by ReedGeek's simplicity and size; 18 procedures from start to finish with very precise machining. We use very costly aerospace grade alloy sheet that provides the ReedGeeks with ultimate precision and extremely long wear. With an accuracy of .0005 on all edges it is truly the Best reed tool in the world.I am so happy you and many players are achieving years of better reed performance!! Mauro
![How To Make ALL Your Reeds Work Using A Reed Geek Tool [#37]](/img/n.gif)
This is a very cool tool. Just received mine and along with the tips from the video, it's making a huge difference already. Yes of course, all the reed adjustments are doable with a Stanley knife blade, (as my dad taught me 40 years ago), but this tool just makes it very easy and far safer. I find I can make simple adjustments quickly that actually make a difference immediately to my sound.
Thank you! Much LOVE!
Great video, thank you!
First night with the ReedGeek, and wow, it really does work. And this video lesson really made the difference, as far as getting the techniques, and the theory of what you're doing. I had 3 reeds that definitely had NOT been playable, and after a few minutes with the ReedGeek, they played great. By the way, before this, I had been using the Vandoren Glass Reed Resurfacer and Reed Stick, to do the same type of adjustments. But the results with the ReedGeek were quicker and easier to do.
Thanks.
Michael, Thanks so much for your Feedback!...It always makes me happy when players are learning and experiencing the benefits of balancing and 'Geekin' their reeds!!...Mauro
Thanks again. I understand we have a mutual friend, Kurt Heisig, of Monterey. Kurt was the person who convinced me to try the ReedGeek. Just tonight I pulled out a new reed from a box I had put away years ago, and in less than a couple minutes with ReedGeek I was recording with it.
Awesome Mike! ..Give "Crazy" Kurt my best and thank him for the referral...He possesses a lot of knowledge also!
Thanks Mauro!
thank you very much sir.
Best advice I have seen from a dozen tutorials. I use a stanley blade. (Please don't copy) putting a very light pencil mark is great, you can take of the pencil and remove very little cane.
I tried Stanley blades too (trying to save money) i found they aren’t so flat. Something about that 90 degree angle of metal works better
Hi Tom....as per the reed diagram on the video and which can be downloaded at ReedGeek.com, I would do a little bit of scraping/blending with the ‘Geeks profile tip. This would be on the “ears of the reed” section C and working towards the spine in a circular motion lightly using the profile rounded section of the ReedGeek’s tip like a pencil eraser. Lastly, use the flat planing edges of the ‘Geek perpendicular across the nose/ tip of the spine to flatten the tip area lightly scraping up and off the tip to promote a quicker vibration to the tip....I hope this helps as these are the area to help the final voicing of the higher notes (F). I will try to post another video of this very soon!
Mauro
ReedGeek
The VanDoren ground-glass tool make some incremental scrapings easily and, if done on a moist read, will shave the kapok from the underside. Giving closer, flatter reed contact. Done under running water prevents the glass from clogging with reed debris. And testing the reed pliability against the tongue is much more sensitive than fingers.
I just bought a G4 for my clarinet and sax reeds.
The V shape that you drew on the reed -how close to the tip of the reed is the point of the V?
Just bought the G4, and it's just great ! I am a beginner, in my first year of learning saxophone, and I have almost 2/3 of my reeds that are difficult to play, and it cost me a lot. Today I first try the G4 to work on them with the gauge set, and I already saved 6 reeds that was hard to play and now they are pretty good ! Already saved money on the first day :D Great tool !!!! (For now I work only on the back of the reed and it's already good for me :)) ... I thought about your "boom" when I used the gauge set haha
Hello Mauro. Where would you work on a reed as per your digram, to bring back note High F. I loose high notes when the rest of the reed is still great? Tom
I have one and use it daily. Sometimes I wonder should we just buy softer reeds?
I never touch flat part of reed, but use razor blade on curved area with awesome results
The flat part of the Reed is the number 1 operation. Cheap razor blades are not even close to a ReedGeek Gerald.
How about the Rico Plastic cover reed and Legeré synthetic reed sir???
I noticed you have some synthetic oboe reeds there- do you happen to know how to get some synthetic American scrape oboe reeds?
Can ReedGeek improve reeds that are too soft?
Hello, are you shipping the products to Serbia? Or, is there any country near Serbia where I can buy a product? Best regards.
Mauro, do I need a Bullet for synthetic reeds or can the Classic or G4 work well? Thanks
Hi Warren, Both the Classic and G4 will work on all synthetics. The Bullet was designed to not only excel on cane reeds but work extremely well on the Legere polymer.
...Mauro
Razor blade works just as well
No they don’t Gerald!...Mauro
This tool really works fine, good work, I have one since some years. It is ok that you want to have a good price to generate enough income. But 60 Euros/70 US$ for a simple small piece of metal seems very overpriced to me comparing the production costs, sorry. 30 Euros would be more than enough.
Dear Ruediger, ReedGeek's are very costly to produce (higher than the cost to produce many vital woodwind accessories--I'm often amazed that players have no problem spending 60-200 Euro on ligatures) .Don't be fooled by ReedGeek's simplicity and size; 18 procedures from start to finish with very precise machining. We use very costly aerospace grade alloy sheet that provides the ReedGeeks with ultimate precision and extremely long wear. With an accuracy of .0005 on all edges it is truly the Best reed tool in the world.I am so happy you and many players are achieving years of better reed performance!! Mauro
Their must be an easier way!
A person can't see squat what you are doing. Please film closer with light from behind not blinding everything. Thax