Roller Blind Tubular Motor Disassembled

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Komentáře • 34

  • @ytrew9717
    @ytrew9717 Před 4 měsíci +1

    very interesting video, thanks for your work ! Greeting from France

  • @jeucedahn
    @jeucedahn Před 2 lety +2

    Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain step by step what you find

  • @andyracksthecams
    @andyracksthecams Před 3 měsíci +1

    Thank you

  • @patmat.
    @patmat. Před rokem

    Thank you so much. You're saving a lot of time and trouble to a lot of DIY people.

  • @whitefields5595
    @whitefields5595 Před rokem

    Thanks for this. Mine is making a grinding noise. Looking at those nylon gears, that you cannot easily get to probably means a new unit

  •  Před 6 měsíci

    Amazing engineering

  • @Mrlugino1
    @Mrlugino1 Před 2 měsíci

    so, the only way to disassembly the motor is to cut-out the carcaza with a grinder, as he did?

  • @robertlongoria765
    @robertlongoria765 Před 3 lety

    Thanks very complete. You did a good job of explaining it.
    I think this is entirely too much engineering and could be simplified. The thing looks like it could cost $400 whenit was new. So many reduction gears and press fitings!

    • @apached343
      @apached343  Před 2 lety

      Thanks. Yes, they are very sturdy and over engineered. Actually cost around $1000 AUD.

  • @a360d7
    @a360d7 Před 3 lety

    Hi, how can connect fibaro gate shutter controller module to 3 wires blinds motor? Is there any possibility to do so? Thank you

  • @jamesbell554
    @jamesbell554 Před 4 lety +3

    Did you test the capacitor I am finding that is the major source of the motor failure in tube blind motors.

  • @joedelmare5505
    @joedelmare5505 Před rokem

    Good video! I am wondering if the windings inside this motor size are pure copper or CCA?

  • @tuantranthanh1439
    @tuantranthanh1439 Před 4 lety

    Hello! let me ask what is the encoder

  • @paulbridgeman
    @paulbridgeman Před 10 měsíci

    Can you show us where the dowel holes locate with the internals of the motor?

  • @dakikpunomatik732
    @dakikpunomatik732 Před 2 lety

    thaks

  • @galaviel
    @galaviel Před rokem

    Very helpful.
    I was wondering how switching between up and down is performed.
    looking at the motor it only has 2 wires.
    The electronics assembly you show has 2 large black boxes which look like two Relays.
    is that how the switching is done?
    one wire has to be connected LINE and the other to NEUTRAL.
    right?

    • @heipers6828
      @heipers6828 Před rokem

      I will try to switch it up and down by using a smart-home-device (Shelly 2PM). For that, I ordered a used Motor on eBay to disamble it and to figure out, how the RTS / wireless up-down-switching ist working. I will do a Video of that, I think you're right with the relay-block. I will measure it and if it works, I'll show in the Video.

  • @fernandorobles4626
    @fernandorobles4626 Před 2 lety

    Donde puedo comprar repuestos para esros motores

  • @reginaldo.c.melgacomelgaco2172

    Meu motor parou se eu trocar a bobina ele valta a funcionar

  • @AKFisken89
    @AKFisken89 Před 2 lety

    Very nice video :D
    I bought a budget blind, but am having issues with the battery going flat too often.
    Opened it op into the tubular roller blind motor assembly, which is taken apart here, but could not go further, because I was missing the rigth torque bit.
    I found that the tubular roller blind motor assembly is a "am25-1.2/30-es-ez" witch goes for 80$ online.
    Now I'm wondering if I should replace the hole thing or see if I can find a better 7.4V lithium battery that will fit.
    Am missing the internal diameter of the assembly in order to find a fitting battery and do not know how long I can allow it to be.
    Given I find a 7.4V battery that fits is there any reason it would not work?
    Edit: corrected battery Voltage

  • @joeshmoe7899
    @joeshmoe7899 Před rokem

    Looking for: "how to repair somfy 40 rts motor."

  • @javiertisera355
    @javiertisera355 Před rokem

    Hi, the motor is an AC Motor, isn’t it? Thanks!

    • @patmat.
      @patmat. Před rokem

      No it's DC. The big white capacitor is precisely to rectify the AC power supply into DC for the motor.

  • @AlpeshPatelp87
    @AlpeshPatelp87 Před 2 lety

    i m thinking of manufacturer tubular Motor in India... Can u guide who can provide us Large scale manufacturing machinery for this ??

    • @apached343
      @apached343  Před 2 lety

      You need to begin with design.
      Then contact tube manufacturers, electronics suppliers and plastics injection moulders. Then you will need Engineers to setup Assembly plant

    • @AlpeshPatelp87
      @AlpeshPatelp87 Před 2 lety

      @@apached343 i have AutoCAD team which can work on design as well as moulding partners who can work on making specific moulds... But i think the core part which is Inside Motor needs to be made properly...

    • @apached343
      @apached343  Před 2 lety

      @@AlpeshPatelp87 You could try to contact local electric motor manufacturers to design and supply the tubular motor,

    • @AlpeshPatelp87
      @AlpeshPatelp87 Před 2 lety

      @@apached343 ya so to local Motor manufacturer what specifications i need to give him to make Inside Motor.....
      if u know please let me know...

    • @AlpeshPatelp87
      @AlpeshPatelp87 Před 2 lety

      @@apached343 Also for different Nm Motor are they using different types of inside Motor?

  • @NoferTrunions
    @NoferTrunions Před rokem

    BRAKE/MOTOR PROBLEM: I have a 30 year old SIMU which is the same company. It is a mechanical system w/o any electronics. My problem appears to be there is too much Brake and the motor will not break free and start. The brake is a fiber disc that appears to be impregnated with silicone rubber with a constant pressure spring loaded pressure plate. The brake appears to be a constant drag perhaps to stop the rotor quickly when desired blind position is reached. I don't know what the breakaway torque is supposed to be, but I believe it is massively too great: the friction surface of the disc is "grippy" as if the impregnated rubber has gotten gummy. It cannot be sanded away since impregnated.
    I'm looking into the possibility the motor torque is below spec: I checked the field winding resistances and they are both 25 ohms. I am in the process of getting the capacitor tested.
    I'm also looking on McMaster.com to see if friction material can be purchased. They sell 7x7" pieces of 1/8" material for a whopping $30 which I would buy if I knew it would solve the problem.
    Thank you so much for your video!!!