Whirlpool/Kenmore Top-Load Washer Leaking? Tub Seal
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- čas přidán 17. 05. 2010
- This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the tub seal on a Whirlpool/Kenmore top-loading washing machine. The most common reason for replacing the tub seal is when the washer is leaking water.
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All of the information for this tub seal replacement video is applicable to the following brands:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Estate, Inglis, Crosley, Amana, Admiral
Tools needed: flathead screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16 socket, spanner wrench, hammer
The model displayed: Whirlpool/Kenmore Washer 11022622100
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So doing this to my 28 year old Kenmore 80 Series washer and using this video was my weekend project. Things I learned.
Nothing will go as smooth as it is shown in this video.
You will need the spanner wrench. $12 on Amazon. Even with the wrench, you will be banging the crap out of it to get it off.
You will need a 6 inch gear puller (not a 3 inch or 4 inch). Harbor Freight has a 3 pack for $22, which I thought, Ill never use these again. But I could not have done this job without it in fact it was the toughest part of the job. Save yourself from trying anything else. Spend the money and get the 6 inch gear puller.
You will also need some silicone spray and a cheap wire brush (for cleaning)
To get the center inner tub off, using the 6 inch gear puller, this took me over an hour as the puller kept popping off. You have to turn your Bolt (that you took off with the spanner wrench) upside down and screw it back on. While your torqueing the ratchet to pull this thing off, ever few turns, tap on the hooks with your hammer to make sure they are secure in place. Also, (Very important) take an adjustable wrench and hold the gear puller in place (left hand) while you are turning your ratchet with our other hand. If you dont, the torque will will spin the gear puller a little causing the hooks to pop off. (The hooks on the gear puller have little to grab onto and hold it in place)
Once you get it all off, you will have to pop out the center metal piece with a 2x4 and hammer. You will NOT be able to get the washer back together if you leave it on.
Plan on spending some time cleaning both your interior tub and outer plastic tub once they are off. 28 years of stuff its pretty caked on.
In this video, the rubber replacement seal just pops right in. No such luck. Took me and the wife pushing on both sides of it with the butt end of hammers to finally get it to pop in and had to use some silicone spray to grease the way.
In another comment, there was a note that a guy found a little cup with a cotter pin in it, which he didnt recall ever taking off. I found that as well laying on the floor. Apparently, there are a couple of them and the cup is just attached to the bottom of the frame with the pin in it. Has no appearant purpose and may have something to do with shipping. But if you find this, dont spend any time trying to figure out where it goes. Throw it away.
When all done, fixed my leak. If it hadn't, then likely would have been either one of the transmission seals (there are 2 on the center shaft) that you will see when you get this thing apart.
Thats a whole other more complicated job to fix that.
Lastly, while you have this all apart and are spending hours to replace a $5 seal, go ahead and replace the agitator dogs. They are cheap and will likely need replacing anyhow.
Thanks for the information.
This video is great. I hope any of you out there like me who think you can do this without the spanner wrench get really lucky and/or don’t disfigure the nut too much trying to get it off. I tried a lot and had no luck, then bought a 12$ wrench off amazon and two days later it popped off really really easy, totally worth the 12$.
This video was great, the only thing I would add is that the drive shaft will most likely be corroded pretty badly (my old tub seal didn’t look bad at all, but there was just enough corrosion on the shaft and between the shaft and the seal that water must have been getting through) so be sure to clean that up. I just used a piece of sand paper to clean it up, probably should have put a dab of grease on it to help seal it up. Hopefully it won’t be an issue for me, planning on having a new machine by the time this corrodes again. Also, getting the outside tub off the shaft was difficult, if you aren’t flexible enough to get your foot up on top of the drive shaft while pulling the tub up then you should have a friend to help pry that off.
Otherwise this went pretty well, great video.
I removed mine by using a hammer 🔨 and a chisel and knock it around . Didn't take much.
@@michaell3711 hahahaha boom
Thank you so much. You've just saved me more than $150 dollars worth of professional services for something relatively easy like changing a rubber plug or seal. I couldn't have done it without these intructions.
Thank you for making these videos. They are really well done and have helped me a ton.
Quick tip... my washer started leaking from underneath. I was prepared for it to be leaking from the agitator seal since it would leak if you just poured a jug of water into it without it actually being run. After pulling the casing off I tested it by pouring water into the drum and found the drain hose had sprung a leak. A hose bracket was missing which had left the hose rubbing against the mount which in turn created a hole in the hose. I'm a firm believer in using what I have on hand to jerry rig, if it will work :0). That said, I took a cheap plastic pencil, removed the lead and lit the tip on fire. As it was melting I rubbed the melted plastic over the hole in the hose to seal it. I then put a few layers of duct tape and a piece of packing cushion sheet and taped it over the hose where it was rubbing against the mount. Worked like a charm.
Congrats on the repair!
The best washer repair video. Thanks,
Wish every video was this clear!
Washer repair made simple. Thank you, great vid
Thanks for the DIY video, very helpful, and yes it was the tub seal that was bad. My basket stuck also when trying to pull it out, used WD40, and a flat head screwdriver to pry between basket , and drive block to allow WD40 to get down in there. Drive block was really corroded.
very, very helpful. saved me a service call. Finding the spanner wrench was a bit of an ordeal though. Had to order one as nothing else I tried had enough torque.
I'd think the first repair step would be to determine where the unit is leaking from. Just because its leaking from underneath doesn't mean its leaking from the agitator seal, it could be from hoses, pump, etc.. This video is great to see all the different parts and how to remove/replace them, but as someone else pointed out, figuring out where the leak occurs is first and foremost. Thanks for the video though!
No sh*t. But, it’s easy to determine. The video didn’t say, if it’s leaking, then it’s the tub seal. It’s just showing you how to do it.
We have one of these old models, thank you for the repair video!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Replaced the seal and all went well. When the machine started to spin however it seemed to be a little off. Also, Is there a gold cotter pin somewhere in the machine parts? I dont recall removing it, but it was on the cellar floor after the repair. Does this pin belong in the washer ??
Unfortunately we don't have a video for that. I'm sure if you do a search online you'll be able to find some assistance on a blog or repair forum.
Thank so much for this video
Helped a ton
Good luck!
+Magic Mark, the sealant pricing is set based on the manufacturer's pricing to us; since it's a major manufacturer's product, pricing may be slightly higher than products not made by the appliance manufacturer. Some technicians will use silicone on the tub seals to help prevent a leak. It is usually not necessary to use silicone on a new seal; it should seal properly without it.
***** Just did this repair on a Samsung front-loader, so a slightly different beast. There was a small divot and a protruding seam (that you can catch your fingernail on) that appears to be from the manufacturing process. Are the seals usually good enough to seal around deformities like these? I'm not digging the idea of pulling the whole thing apart again just to smear some goop around the seal. :(
I performed this repair. If your machine is 10 or more years old soap and additives will have stuck the compression fitting to the metal tub. You will not be able to just reach in and lift out the metal tub; too much force needed. You will need a 6 inch gear puller, like those you can buy from Harbor Freight, to remove separate the metal tub from the shaft and compression fitting will remain in the metal tub. Install the tub nut upside down on the shaft so that gear pulller has something to grab against. You can push/pound the compression fitting back into the tub housing after it is removed. Otherwise this repair worked as described in the video.
I tried this with the harbor freight tool described and I failed. I tried it with a hydraulic puller from harbor freight and I broke the spanner nut. The video was great but my washer was just too far gone.
@@motorcyclemike1299 you can use a car jack and a piece wood cut to fit the spin basket.
Do you have a video over diagnosing top load water dripping water into tub when not turned on?
For anyone else that has a problem with the inner tub sticking, I removed the spanner nut and put it back on about half way and used a gear puller attached to the spanner nut and centered in the threaded hole of the agitator shaft to pull the inner and outer tub free from the agitator shaft at the same time. Once they were both free I put the tubs on the ground and hammered the drive nut through. Was much easier than trying to pull the inner tub free from the drive nut. After 20 years of service there was some serious build up on the drive nut. Just make sure you do everything you need to free the outer tub before you use the gear puller, i.e. removing clips and springs.
Lee Lancaster Thanks for the tips!
Lee, what size gear puller do you use. I dont want to damage the agitator threads
Magic .Mark Hey I think it was a 6" bearing/gear puller. It was a piece of junk harbor freight puller like this.
www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/three-jaw-puller-set-4-pc-69104.html
I put the spanner nut back on the agitator shaft about half way and set the puller jaws on that. I should have taken some pics but by that point I was pretty.......consumed with the process, lol. I had tried all kinds of tricks, hot water, jumping in the tub, hammers, 2x4's and probably a couple other things that I can't remember.
Lee line does not have a swivel so when it makes contact with the Center gear shaft it just turns the entire gear shaft enough seemed to lift anything
Magic .Mark It is not working for me. What actually should be happening. Could it be possible the Series 70 from I assume 1988 have something else holding it on? Yes I dont have a gear puller with a swivel so when it gets tight the shaft starts to turn. But I thought I would see a little movement. Nothing. I have a little play up and down but not sure what is moving . I have been messingwith it for an hour. I hate to buy another setof pullers for 30 bucks if might not work. I cant see how gear pulling on the threaded part is going to lift the drum. . Wow I think I wasted $50 in parts since if I cant get this off I cant stop the leak so the new clutch and other parts really arent going to do a darn. Any other ideas how to free this, is appreciated.
If I need to remove the inner tub/barrel, but not the outer tub, for cleaning, do i need to replace the seal? As far as I know, the seal is still good. Thank you, also how tight is the large retainer (tub) nut to be? Is there any special cleaner that should be used? I wouldnt use a harsh cleaner. Thanks
Thanks for the step by step instructions. I only wish there were tips included on how to determine exactly where the unit is leaking from. In my case I know it isn't the inlet hoses... it starts leaking from underneath the second it begins to fill. I think its coming from towards the front, so my guess is the water pump... which I'm guessing at from watching a different repair video.That video didn't show disassembly of the unit though... so between the two video's I believe I got what I needed to know.
Did you remove the tub ring?
I, too, had trouble pulling the inner tub. I tried everything I saw in the first few comments here WRT that problem. As I was trying the torch the second time my friend showed up and suggested reversing the spud nut to pull the tub. That worked, but of course after I had tried the heat, WD 40, vinegar, hammering with a wood block, prying and tapping.
great video thank you
I don’t know what that part could be besides part of the tub that may have melted if the seal was loose and spinning on it. If the part was plastic it was most likely a part of the tub and the whole tub will need to be replaced. If it was black rubber it may just be a part of the rubber seal that came off. The center part of the tub has about a ½ inch lip that protrudes up into the tub that the seal sits on.
Is there a need to grease up the drive shaft or drive block?
That was great!
My husband and I did this repair, it wasn't super easy but i now have a really clean washer that doesn't leak from the outer tub gasket, yay! And I probably saved a few hundred dollars.
If I had to pay a few hundred bucks to fix the washer, I would replace it. I normally keep cars and appliances 15-20 years (my Audi is a 1996 and still running strong), but I could be convinced to make an exception with this thing.
Great video!! Thank you. Just did this on a Kenmore. Getting the inner drum off was a pain. I held the tub in the air while my wife tapped the shaft with a hammer. Used a little white grease on the inside of the seal for easier installation. No leaks!
Mark Mullarky Congrats on the successful repair!
I use the car jack and 21" 2x4 method to lift the tub / inner drum out. This time I am labeling my 2x4 "Whirlpool tool -- do not toss," to make sure someone doesn't throw out or repurpose this one.
thanks very much for your video , it is so useful.
i could save some mony for changing a hose.
My machine has 4 push-in buttons that need to be pushed in in order to remove the spin basket. Anybody have a good idea how to accomplish that trick?
I just happened to find that same exact spanner in the bottom of my tool box. LOL!
I see some one sells a special grease for these seals but none are mentioned on any of these repair sites, so is it necessary as this grease is very expensive.
Very helpful video and great quality.
I was able to remove and replace the cabinet to locate a leak in the tub caused by a broken tab/fin on the bottom of the tub. I attempted to repair the leak with waterproof epoxy putty. The patch is holding, but now, there is a loud thumping sound during the last few seconds of the spin cycle. Is this related to the patch? I pressed it into the hole to get a good seal, could the putty could be coming in contact with the inner drum and causing noise? The cost of the tub seems too high to replace it in a ten year old machine.
Thanks again for the video.
britup1 What is your washer's model number?
Is that the only seal? Is there also a seal between the drive block and transmission shaft?
What the screws. Mine had one the head stripped from the factory. The screws are cheaply made and the heads strip easily. Line up the cabinet when you put back together with two tabs on each side that stick up from the bottom frame. How do you know it is the tub seal or the pump, hoses, water pressure tub, or other?
Hi Andrew, you'll find our free troubleshooting and repair help information to be helpful. Enter your washer's model number in the Repair Help section of our website. There is a link to it in the description of this video. We wish you a fast and successful repair.
I was able to get everything apart and removed tub. Wanting to clean this part up we poped out the gasket and found a lip or bearing of sorts that appears to have melted apart. I'm going to assume that this was an intrigal part of the tub? Only fix is to replace tub? Or am I wrong in my assumptions. Do you have a video showing this part intact. My diagram I found online does not show this part of the tub or as an aux part, any info in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Mach is over 21yrs
Helpful, bought a used washer got screwed it leaks everywhere, bought a new Maytag 18 months ago, the piece of crap quit, of course warranty and it ran out, disgusted.
Would this bad seal cause premature clutch failure?
Pro review,subscribed.
jerry Slunkskin Thanks!
for anyone reading, this video also applies to the old Whirlpool Design2000 LA6500XP washers from the 1980s.
Outstanding.... Found my leak, CRACKED SHAFT! Rusted out completely. Anyone need a 6month old 200buck timer?
thats some serious work
It really is not bad. (OK, I have done four Audi timing belts, tie rod ends, and various other car repairs with my sons. :) ) The toughest part (for me) was lifting out the inner tub / basket, but the car jack and 2x4 method works pretty well.
If you get a spanner wrench online make sure it's like the one in the video. Mine was like a box end wrench trying to take off a nut from a bolt that had already been loosened an inch. I got one that worked but I had to hold it the whole time (40 minutes) and hammer. If you can get a friend to help with the holding the tub while hitting it it would help.
Also use plenty of penetrating oil around fittings and on shaft over which plastic tub liner gasket slides. After applying the oil I was able to lift out the plastic liner and gasket by hand but had to lift with a lot of force, practically lifting the carriage and motor into the air until the rubber gasket started to slide on the metal shaft.
I bought tub seal from you hope this works taking apart washer based on your video
+aaron jay We hope it works too.
+RepairClinic.com So the tub seal worked great product. Now the washer is unbalanced. The springs seem to be alright. I've narrowed it down to not enough fluid in the inner tub or the pads being out of place I guess I have more work to do.
Lol, all I see are washers with a drive block that needs to come off but mine doesn’t have one. This is my exact model…and it has a drive block. Soooo, what do you know? Mine came off with the inner tub! Lol. There it is! Thanks!
What if it keeps leaking after you replace the gasket?
when the machine starts to fill water the drain starts to leak water i was about to replace the water pump any ideas?
Why do you have to remove the spring mounting brackets.... they seem like you could leave them on their.
It is more difficult than this video. There is corrosion and stuck tubs. The spanner is tighter. I used a 10 inch pipe wrench opened up and hooked in the slot. Inner tub was stuck so I turned the spanner nut upside down put it back on and used a gear puller to pull the tub. Bottom tub was stuck too but running around it with a screwdriver loosened it up. I used O Lube around the gasket and on the shaft.
Thanks for the tip of reinstalling the spanner nut and using a gear puller.
I have a question. the pastic ring that sits at the top of my washer's tub has water or some kind of liquid inside, is that normal? oh, and I can't seem to make the porcelan tub come out, it's stuck, stuck, stuck. Any pointers? yes, I used qd40 but it doesn't budge.
How did you make out?
Repair Clinic staff, our family has a 2010 Speed Queen washer, nothing has broken on it, which is why I am asking, do you folks have filming Speed Queen repair videos in the works?
Unfortunately we do not have any Speed Queen videos in the schedule. Sorry about that!
are there any other parts that commonly wear out at the same time?
Yeah -- the whole thing. :( This is my fourth major repair in 6 years of ownership: 1) lid switch; 2) pump motor; 3) suspension rods; 4) bottom seal.
Help! Hubby has Been trying to remove that spanner ring with the spanner tool and it just won’t move. Been doing it counter clockwise but also tried clockwise. Which is the correct direction? We have a Maytag legacy model #mtw5870tw0 pls help .no washer for weeks now
RepairClinic.com ok thx for replying ,appreciate it
Thanks for the great video! Like others have commented, I also ran into trouble at the part where you "pull straight up to remove the inner tub." Ha - didn't budge. I couldn't get any leverage. I used WD-40, Vinegar, boiling water, tapping with a hammer, then harder with a wood block, then hammered a thin flathead screwdriver down between the drive block and the inner tub, all the way around. Finally figured out I could actually get some leverage by putting my foot on top of the agitator post to push down on that while lifting up on the tub. That did it. Don't know if that would have worked at first without all the other stuff I did, but as the drive block came out with the inner tub, I kind of think so.
TubularMag We're sorry it was so hard to accomplish! Congrats on getting it done though.
Mine is stuck. I wish you tried your idea first since it sounds like you could have loosen it up with all that other stuff. but how did you put your food on the gear shaft and where your hands on the tub? I hope your input will help.
Magic .Mark
Left foot on the ground and lifted my right foot all the way up on top of the shaft. I can't remember for sure where I grabbed on with my hands, but it was probably just inside the rim around the top of the tub (palms out.) Push down with the leg and pull up with the arms. I'm a little taller than average and it was a bit of a stretch.
TubularMag Thanks. that was not going to happen with mine. I commented above that I finally got it and had a fused drive block on the shaft side and the tub side. 25 years is just too long to expect it to come apart like the video.
I might use some anti seize but who knows if it is worth it since I dont expect to need to take it apart again before everything rusts out....
It had to have been part of the tub, now no such lip is intact. Funny though what appeared to be small ball bearings were found attached to this plastic piece; maybe something in the form of a key chain or the like.
cool
What about when the tub doesn't budge
My washer is leaking water .what's wrong?
im trying to remove pieces from the tub I have a Low Water HE Kenmore washer it looks different than this washer its just tub with now stick in the middle the problem is im trying to remove small pieces that fell on the bottom and makes noise while spinning.
What is your washer's complete model number?
Mod think its 110. 26002010 were looking for the manual but no luck but im sure this is it.
Awesome In Black You can remove the wash plate (the white agitator at the bottom of the tub) by popping off the white cap in the middle of the plate and removing the bolt securing the plate to the tub. If this doesn't work out for you email us at jhull@repairclinic.com and we'll see if we can help out further.
Help, please! What wrench is that, the one used to remove the nut from the axle after the agitator is taken off? I went to the tool store today and they showed me a 60$ "spanner wrench", as is stated in the video, that looked like nothing more than a pair of pliers. Can anyone tell me what tool to use to remove the nut? I tried setting a chisel against it and wanging on it with a rubber mallet, however there is just not much room to swing, and now I am at a loss. Anyone?
+TheUpGrayed www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?TLSID=1773
+RepairClinic.com Perfect, I actually was able to show that page to my uncle and he had one at the bottom of some tool chest from years ago! Thanks so much for the video and reply!
After I removed Spanner Nut. The Basket is Stuck will not come up, Used WD40 still not coming up. any help.
I had to use a gear puller. I put the spanner nut back on upside down and put the fingers under it. Worked great.
I had one repair guy said to put some silicone rubber sealant around the outside base before pushing in the gasket.. I have not seen anyone recommend this before. They listed www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Silicone-Sealant/279368/469523?ss=b5-x73696c69636f6e65207365616c616e74&mr=0
First off why is this silicone so expensive and t second why would he have recommended to do this? I assume it is to help prevent any minor leaks from any deformity? Seems too expensive for a tube of that and not shown in any video. Thoughts?
I agree with using the Silicone rubber sealant. I replaced my tub seal a couple years ago and it is leaking again. This time I cleaned the shaft where the inside of the tub seal rests and applied silicone rubber sealant in this area also. The rust pitting on the shaft broke the seal & let the water out between the shaft & inner seal surface. I also used never-sieze on the spanner threads when I reassembled because I had to use a propane torch on the outer edges all around the spanner nut to get it to release. Good as new. Thanks RepairClinic!!
How do you replace a seal on a 50-year-old lady Kenmore washing machine?
My inner tub was FUSED to the drive block. No amount of liquid wrench/WD-40 would loosen it. Heat didn't work either. Since I knew the drive block had to come off in the next step, I put a lock wrench on the drive block and hammered on the handle until it finally moved. The inner tube came out WITH the drive block still fused to it. (so I noticed they forgot to turn the water back on in the video ;-)
+coryart Thank you for sharing.
how did you put a "lock wrench" on the drive block? The only thing sticking out with the inner tub still in are the threads. Did you put the "lock wrench" on the threads or put the nut back on the clamp to it? If it will come off this way, what is the purpose of the spanner nut? Sounds like you could leave the spanner nut on, skip that step and just whack the nut until the whole thing comes off. Interesting..(by "lock wrench" do you mean vise grips, or channel locks pliers)
Good lord
Has anyone ever seen the inner tub cut a long hole in the outside of the outer tub? Worn tub bearings?
Can you please clarify your question?
*****
I recently handled a whirlpool that a long circumferential cut covering almost 25% of a circle in the outer tub. I had never seen this before, and the tub bearings were not worn out. Also the drive block was ok. Since I posted that question, I have surmised that a nail or something probably worked its way into one of the holes of the rotating tub and cut the gash into the outer plastic tub.
Hiruit Nguyse Aah, yes, a nail or other sharp object is most likely the cause of the damage.
Motor shield Part 3362089
Click en 3:18
Se ve como va instalada esta parte que ni el plano de ensamble original la trae bien ubicada.
Ver parte 18:
Viene en dos presentaciones blanca y negra.
c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0102138-00004.png
www.searspartsdirect.com/Whirlpool-Washer-Parts/Model-LSR5132JQ1/1198/0153200/P0102138/00004.html
Gusdelfin G Gracias por tu comentario. Si tiene alguna pregunta, por favor llame al 1-800-269-2609 en de los 50 estados De Los Estados Unidos y Canadá.1-734-495-3079 para las llamadas de los territorios de los E.E.U.U., de Puerto Rico y de las bases de APO/FPO.
You used the scanner wrench the wrong way
looks all easy to do until you actually try to remove the inner tub. Good luck, call a service tech.
sandra kohler I just did it....Granted, it took most of the day, as well as a few expletives and cigarette breaks BUT I got it done. Service techs in NYC cost $150 just to come and look at your appliance. You can do it!
@@dawnconnors8205 how? Many thanks!!!