THIS Fixes the Creality K1 Max
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- čas přidán 7. 11. 2023
- The Creality K1 Max works well, but HAS A FLAW. Changing nozzles is difficult. This new Flow Tech hot end aims to make it easier. Let's see how well it works.
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It feels like we are entering a new era of 3d printers. quality is going up and price is going down so fast the last few years.
I feel the same way! I'm a big 3d printer enthusiast and seeing how printers are becoming more affordable and plug-and-play makes me very excited for the future.
More Companies coming out competing for the evolving potentially new untapped marketing of in home innovation with New Printers and not just that but somewhat Feature packed with improved Quality makes for increased commercial competition, making the retail market very competitive for us the buyer. In 5 years time I think we will have Printers that we don't even have to touch possibly with auto spool loading which is a Win Win lol
@@CHRIS_CREATIONS Well, bambulab ams already have the auto spool load and unload
It pretty wild how much the fire gets lit when the community will just do it themselves or walk away from companies that dont step up. I can't wait for corexy to take over the space im tired of cartisian bs
its because they are charging a subscription to use everything $100 a year, and their camera set up is very faulty and crashes and all of their site and app are really bad, slow response and buggy.
I decided to eventually get a K1 Max once I found out that Micro Swiss was going to build products for it. I have a "fully" upgraded CR10S PRO which is a fantastic printer after upgrades, many Micro Swiss parts including their hot end and direct drive extruder. Thick cast aluminum plate, AC bed heater, linear rails on x and y, elostomer springs on build table. Printer is solid as anything. But I want a faster core xy printer and the K1 Max seems to be evolving quickly and Micro Swiss support seals the deal for me.
Glad to hear it worked for you - mine was HOT garbage from day one. No amount of calibration could get a good print, ended up with the bed mesh issues and eventually it offed itself by trying to ram the nozzle through the printer bed until it snapped the whole hotend off… 🤷♂️
Had one for a week now....its...perfect. A must buy!! Prints everything perfectly
This is the absolutely best prototyping machine. I have been printing with this thing non-stop from day one without issues! (knock on wood). ASA, TPU, everything. Awesome machine.
you've had good luck with tpu? i do a fairly production style printing for some industrial stuff and have been curious about this one
I appreciate the detailed review of the Flow Tech hot end. Very informative!
I picked up a K1 a little over a month ago at a store with a $200 off coupon. I had an Ender 3 in a box that would have cost me about the same to upgrade that way I wanted so I decided to buy the K1 instead (I donated the Ender to our HS where my friend teaches Engineering). I have had the exact same out of the box experience as Joel and this K1Max. It has been a transformative tool for me. I bought an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max around the same time which has also been a great experience, it's got some teething pains but is loads easier to operate than an Ender 3. Between these 2 printers I feel like I've been freed from being a 3D printer and can focus on being a maker.
im thinking of buying the elegoo 4 max/plus and close it with perspex or the k1 max. whih one do you recommend?
Can you tell me the issues with the EN4 Max? I have one coming but thinking of canceling due to the many bad reviews on Ama.
How did you get a $200 coupon though ? That would be insane
Microcenter does some crazy deals, I got it for $380US with the coupon, on Black Friday they were selling them for $350US, I should have grabbed a 2nd@@ahmadilyas5736
how has the print bed been I've seen people saying it's been warping after some use. been looking at picking one up but still iffy on it
Best printer I've worked with. In the 50th of a 60 hour print, prints beautifully and quickly. I haven't had any of the problems commonly attributed to it on the CZcamss. Feel bad for everyone who hasn't enjoyed it.
Mine was junk out of the box
Just received my K1 Max Thursday, started to perform the Quick Start procedure Friday. Got to the point of installing the glass top, and much to my dismay, the frame and enclosure was twisted about 3/16" so the glass would not seat properly. In posting this issue on the Creallity K1 Max forum, the feedback was significantly populated with other new owners facing the same issue. The majority were quite specific to send it back for a replacement as the path of attempting repairing it with factory supplied parts is frought with disappointment and frustration. I had high hopes of an easier path and near immediate productivity. Am waiting on the support team to return to work so my warranty request might be processed.
Hi, thanks for your great video!
What increase in speed do you have with the 0.6 and 0.8 mm nozzles?
I just see the K1 Max print very slow in the background ...
I am also missing a video sequence to see how easy it is to change the nozzles with the Micro Swiss FlowTech Hotend.
Here's why I think the 0.4 mm nozzle is good, actually: the nozzle diameter doesn't restrict the maximum flow rate very much, it will happily print wider and thicker lines for inner walls and infill, and it still allows for detailed surface layers.
I just printed a bunch of parts with 1 mm line width and 0.4 mm layer height, on a 0.4 mm nozzle. I have maximum flow rate pegged for the entire print, yielding the shortest possible print time. I've even gone up to 2 mm wide by 0.6 mm high for vase mode prints.
The bottleneck is the hotend and material, not so much nozzle diameter.
Of course things change with "filled" filaments.
I rather use a 0.3mm Nozzle on mine, so I can print ultra fine details when needed but also 0.6mm line width on default. I basically have a couple of profiles from "Course" which is 0.8mm width to extra fine with 0.3mm. This makes the machine incredibly versitile and I don´t need to change any nozzles or any other nonsense.
0.6 is better because it's Faster for the same quality.
@@AlbertoMartinez765 the whole point of my comment is that it's not the nozzle diameter that matters. It's all about maximizing flow rate. A 0.6 mm nozzle is not faster than 0.4 mm nozzle, because 0.4 does not significantly limit the flow rate. You can do bigger extrusions just fine with 0.4 mm nozzle.
@@AlbertoMartinez765 Did you even read the comment at all ? Did you understand why the 0,4mm nozzle makes more sense acc. to him ?
@@Dave_the_Dave You are absolutely right, I do the same thing and even go down to 0,3mm nozzle. I don´t want to keep changing nozzle sizes and this way I am way more versatile. With the new Cura and Prusa slicer with Arachne using 0,6mm nozzle does not make any sense.
This hot end upgrade is exactly what I needed for my K1 Max, Can't wait to improve my prints!
Did you watch the video? Print results were same lol only pro with it is faster nozzle changing
Great video. I might be checking out this hotend for the k1 series because I truly think creality has something wonderful on their hands. Now they need to make an AMS
Just ordered this hot end. Thanks Joel!
just ordered one of these 30 mins ago and looking up more videos for it ^^ love the video ^^
Nice video brother! Glad to see you review this printer. I just got it myself earlier this week. I was also glad to see you mention the MicroSwiss hotend as I just purchased one prior to seeing your video so it was good to see I made the right move! I was hoping I could hook my Sonic Pad up to the K1 Max though. I know it already runs clipper I just like all of the information and mid print controllability that the Sonic Pad gives you. #1 current layer and #2 extrusion adjustments. Is there a way I can have access to that without the Sonic Pad? And should I familiarize myself with Orca? I have Simplify 3D and I do like it a d have gotten used to it but I'm very annoyed as I don't know how to do pause at layer for a filament color change. Any tips?
I had a similar nozzle swapping issue with another printer. Glad that's improving.
I have a K1 with a new extruder and it's such a wonderful machine. I love it. I feel bad for all the people who beta tested the machine for creality.
To be clear, this ships with a better extruder now?
@@theguyonyoutube4826 yes the K1 ships with a new extruder (and maybe you will get a new hot end of your nozzle sock is red). You can tell if you have the new extruder if the knob on top is magnetic. If you don't have a magnet you can visually inspect it and if it's textured (not shiny) it's the new one. I believe that the K1 Max has the new Extruder and Hot end.
At least they've set up the K1 Power Boost Kit to get the new extruder / Camera out to the beta testers as a sorry, a fair move on their side ;)
Does the new extruder still has plastic gears?@@mvaluk
@@adammichoo2930 I haven't opened it up to look
It's great video. I have only one concern. If you have 0.8 nozzle, I assume your minimum layer width is 0.8. If we will keep 0.2 layer height and get max flow rate from MicroSwiss website (35mm3/s) then... Max speed is 212.5 mm/s. So... how is it with extruder skipping/under extrusion issues with normal speed (I think creality is going with over 300mm/s per default)?
Always loved Creality for 2 screws that run through their hotends that allowed me to change nozzle with one hand without supporting heatblock with a wrench
I'd recommend you still support the heat block. Depending how tight the nozzle is you can bend those screws. I did this exact thing on my s1 pro
@@bruddaozzonozzle shouldn't be that tight. If so it's over torqued.
The hyper PLA from creality was awesome tbh. Was able to push my sv06 to nearly 200mms with a .6 nozzle and 5k acceleration without any underextrusion though I was printing a bit hotter
Downside to the K1 Max: You might randomly get an issue when leveling the bed where it just sort of decides "Ya know what? When probing the bed, I'm just going to slam the hardened tool steel nozzle into the bed, keep trying to raise the bed, and then finally give up and jet off to the side from where I'm at, gouging the top coating and destroying the bed!" and it'll do that over... And over... And over... For every single test point on the bed. At least, that's what happened with mine >.> And also, sometimes it has really poopy first layers and no amount of playing with the slicer settings will fix it, but for whatever reason a firmware restore will (which is also the only way to fix previously mentioned gouging of the bed while leveling issue)
Sounds like Creality alright 😂🫠
happened to me yesterday. for no reason the auto leveling rammed my bondtech cht into my bed, scratched half of it. nozzle and bed broken. 80€ wasted. must be a bug somewhere. better turn printer off and on before leveling, maybe some gcode wasnt handled properly, like relative movement
@@tek9058 Not entirely sure, I know turning it off and back on didn't fix the issue for me. Did you set the z-offset in your slicer by any chance? It happened to me after I ran a few prints after setting the z-offset in my slicer and my theory is that *maybe* send it runs the gcode for the z-offset, it's updating the global z-offset by that amount every time, causing it to slowly start getting closer (or if you're using a positive offset, further) to the bed every run until it eventually slams into the bed during auto level.
They fixed that in the latest firmware.
@@OscarOliu Just curious, when was that firmware update released? I was on the latest when it happened to me, which was only maybe 2 weeks ago?
Awesome Video, Thanks for the great content and just in case do you know how to connect the K1 Max with Orca Slicer??
Very nice!! What about pressure advance and resonance compensation? There is some ghosting on the edges of that knitted basket. The pressure advance i saw that it should calibrate itself with the lidar but most users in forums say it is not working properly. Maybe it works now? Or is it possible to calibrate it manually? Cheers
When I noticed Joel not mentioning the ghosting AND using pliers on the nozzle, I had to look for another channel for a review on this printer.
Hey there, I did the microswiss .06 set up you mentioned here but I'm having issue with it and was wondering if you could tell me your set up on the temperature and speed and all that. Using PLA, I've tried multiple brands of filament, even different textures like matte or silk. I'm getting some prints to go well but none of them have been up to snuff, if you may. I'm hoping maybe i just need the right settings. Thanks ❤
Thanks for the video it was a really nice review. Question I am thinking of upgrading from an old Ender 3 Pro. What is the best route to go? Bambu Labs X1c or the K1 Max (with the hot end upgrade) Other than AMS printing are there any other advantages that the X1c offers?
Actually working AI and Lidar. :D I'm sure Creality will get there in the end, but right now they're still very much at the beginning of their learning curve, where the AI/Lidar system on the X1C has become absolutely nice as feature (but it took Bambu 6+ months to get there too). And regardless how nice the K1Max is, I simply can't get myself to invest in a new machine anymore which doesn't have any capabilites in terms of multimaterial anymore, be it in stock condition or after an addon. (and no, Mosaïc Palette or ERCF are not to be considered "prime time ready" solutions in my experiences with them)
This is encouraging. I'm looking at purchasing a Creality K1C. Thanks Joel
Btw, thanks for the great job, you are awesome, I appreciate every video you posted. You rock!!!!
Curious to what firmware you are using? Thanks in advance! I appreciate your work!
Great review and I really enjoyed it not sure if you’re aware but Creality do have a horned upgrade pack that gives you 2 different metals and includes one of each material in .4 .6 &.8 sizes also I have the k1 speedy and am loving it as a printer
Subscribed. Finally a 3d printed channel I can get behind. Tks. Gilles
HOT DIGGITY, THANK YOU!
Ooh good to see this video. I’m going to check out my printer nozzle though, I had an blockage in the beginning due to the plastic getting stuck around the spoolholder (stupid me) and I installed the nozzle back together but without realizing it needs to be tight. Had several prints with it without any problems
NOTE as update to my post: I am probably thinking to install a new nozzle complete though, but after the mistake i made in the begin, i did tighten the nozzle to my feeling, and don't have any issue's there. No plastic clogging up, printer works fine, only problem i have is the Ai function.
So, I bought this Micro Swiss Flow Tech hot end, and I have to say I like it.... the prints so far have been beautiful. BUT.... changing out the hot end that came installed on the printer was a bit of a pain. My particular problem was that the two hot end connectors that need to be removed were GLUED in place and didn't come out easily. After yanking on them for a while with needle-nosed pliers they finally loosened, but in the process the wire leads inside those receptacles got bent. Thankfully I noticed all that before I tried to plug in the Flow Tech.... if I had tried to plug in the Flow Tech with those bent connectors I would not have made proper contact and I probably would not have known later what went wrong.
I had some issues with my K1 Max, but this upgrade might solve them. Excited!
Which issues?
I've heard great things about the Micro Swiss products. Excited to see them for the K1 Max
This video hits home. My Ender 2 Pro just lost a nozzle to rPLA from a local supplier. It totally buggered up the heater block also. So yeh. A few hours of twiddling with it to fix it.
Thank you for your video but what about the tolerance? I'd like to buy one 3d printer for my business but I need a good building precision; thank you
you can expect tolerances od +-0.1mm with 3d printing .... wich is precise enough for hobby woodworking, but nothing compared to machining, cncs or anything like that
@@moron_with_a_voron thank you very much 🙂
I use it to print parts for a product as wide as 295 mm. They must fit a PCB that is cut to 0.2mm resolution. It fits. I had problems with my Prusa XL with dimensional accuracy (it was off by 1%) so I had to expand the model in the 3D modeling program (Shapr3D) by 1% to compensate. I never got to try that, however, because the K1 MAX arrived, and I am a happy camper. I can print one part of the product overnight (7 hours in normal speed mode), and the rest of the parts in 6 hours (fast mode) and get one product completed per day per machine. That is 20/month. Pays for a new machine every month, because it would cost me over $100 to get the parts printed outside.
what is great about buying printer and upgrading it as always with creality you have? have you seend bambu lab nozzle change? plug and play
I like my triangle labs hotend I got for this not too long ago, but honestly I think the extruder is a much bigger problem on this machine. Hoping some 3rd party steps up and fixes it soon
Question - You have many spools of filament stored openly, do you ever dry them before use or is your room kept at low humidity?
@3Dpritingnerd have you tried the MK4 3D chameleon ? I’m looking for a good printer with multicolor printing and at least 300mm build plate. Thoughts ?
Great video about the Creality K1 Max and the upgrade with the Microswiss hotend
Holy.... This is what I've been waiting for. So true about the. 04. And swapping out hardened nozzles.
I'm thrilled about the K1 Max's potential for faster core xy printing. That's exactly what I need.
Can you compare flow rate to stock hotend + CHT? Can you measure the resistance in Ohms ? Formula to calculate watts is: 24v² / measured resistance = watts. It should be 60 watts or more. Stock hotends can vary, saw few around 56 watts some at 65 watts.
Great observations Joel. Looking forward to getting my K1 “upgraded” with the kit Creality sent me so I can finally print on it! 😊
i just got mine a week ago today...was able to print a benchy. kept clogging at the heatbreak/nozzle section. Had to remove extruder in order to yank out of that mess. This part came today. Just fighting with the connectors now that are glued in 4 life.
I mean I'm not saying this is a bad printer, but i did see quite some ghosting on the ABS basket. Maybe i am being overly critical, but for a perfect part, I'd expect this not to be an issue. It looks like the printer does have some quality issues around sharp corners at the very least. I'd love to be convinced of the contrary btw. If that one issue weren't there I'd buy this machine immediately.
I’ll look again once back in the studio. While looking at the basket I was more paying attention to the ropes than the body as I was surprised that even printed well.
@@3DPrintingNerd and with no delamination on these small cross sections! This is definitely a competent machine, I'm just worried the input shaping might not be up to the task. Unless ofc belt tension is off or something. Thanks for your content and answer btw, much appreciated!
Hi! Thanks for a video! Please tell me where I can find such a beautiful model of the Tiny Dragon that you printed in the video?
I am reading through the comments for that too!! He's so cute!!
I snagged the Hotend+0.4mm kit and the same 0.6 & 0.8 that Joel has during a Black Friday special. I'm really looking forward to sitting down with my K1 Max and doing the swap since right now the stock hotend is all clogged up with schmoo.
They have really gotten their act together recently, does make buying a printer in 2023 a little bit harder of a decision.
No they haven't, using a ripped off Fluidd interface violating GPL, making the extruder out of copper for some reason and half the features they advertise not working, it's typical creality in a new slicker design.
@@anonymousperson7861 to act like all that means they haven’t IMPROVED their machines is a little short sighted
@@stevekorzeniewski6895 it's better than the ender 3 capability wise but everyone has moved on since 2015, they continue making the same mistakes, technical progress is easy when you make clones.
Thinking of getting the K1 max instead of the Bambu P1S, whats the noise and vibration like on the K1 max?
Were those prints using stock creality profiles or did you have to tune those filaments first?
Stock profiles on Orca Slicer
Nice Work Joel......I have the V3 K1 Max & I'm going to order the MicroSwiss hotend upgrade thanks mate. Awesome Job
but why ....isnt the standart one just fine, and i have had a prusa mini for over 2 years, changed the nozzle exactly once......seems kinda expensive for nothing
@@moron_with_a_voron if you the latest K1 nozzle it is fine. But I'm a sucker for upgrades especially when you swap out the nozzle for larger nozzles without worrying about making sure it's tensioned enough to press against the inner cold end preventing filament bleeding aka the dreaded bubble gum gew explosion that you can have when you get a filament blockage during a print. This swiss hot end all abit pricey does Fix this issue for good so to me it's worth the trouble free cost in the long run. As when a leak occurs it can be catastrophic to say the least.
the only trouble i ran into swapping to the microswiss was the yellow glue creality placed on the electricals connections. the one with the two thing copper wires was the hardest to remove
How do you know when to use supports? I see you don't have any supports on those during the printing. I know they are not standing straight up but wondering when is it best ?
Just got my k1 max and haven’t even set it up yet. Looking forward to learning with it as this is my first 3D printer. Where did you get the dragon files?
Would really like a video on what you do with the support settings for the K1/K1 Max and other recommended settings that you change from the profile provided in Creality Print
I didn't use Creality Print.
Creality Print isn't so bad after all if you don't want to include a pause. Orca Slicer is really great, but out of curiosity, did you add any tweaks to the default K1 Profiles?@@3DPrintingNerd
See the thing about creality, is they offer you cheap hardware, but their software is 100% of the time, absolute garbage. They rely on other companies making software that works, which is why Joel was using OrcaSlicer, which has work from the Orca Slicer devs, Bambu Studio devs and Prusa devs doing a lot of the heavy lifting.
Heck, the printer firmware is klipper, which they initially stole and simply locked down before being forced under pressure to release it and honour the license of klipper.
Creality just isnt a good company. Their products often offer good value especially when you avoid their software, but they just arent a company you want to support because they arent really doing the innovation nor improving software.
See the thing about creality, is they offer you cheap hardware, but their software is 100% of the time, absolute garbage. They rely on other companies making software that works, which is why Joel was using OrcaSlicer, which has work from the Orca Slicer devs, Bambu Studio devs and Prusa devs doing a lot of the heavy lifting.
Heck, the printer firmware is klipper, which they initially stole and simply locked down before being forced under pressure to release it and honour the license of klipper.
Creality just isnt a good company. Their products often offer good value especially when you avoid their software, but they just arent a company you want to support because they arent really doing the innovation nor improving software.
Just grabbed one. I hate the current method of changing nozzles on my K1. I was hoping there was gonna be a revo nozzle for it at some point lol
After the hotend installation, can you use the original extruder? or do you have to buy a different type of extruder to fit the hotend? thank you
You can use original extruder - that’s what I did!
Micro Swiss support seals the deal for me. It's reassuring to have their products available.
so um i've never really had the leakage problems more than the first time i had a printer, and with a proper nozzle wrench you will never have an issue installing a nozzle but yes i do understand the need/want for easier nozzle swaps, def not enough Quick swap mechanisms for 3d printers. If i ever pick up a K1 i cant say i'll ever need it but it might be a super awesome thing to have in the long run.
Joel would you recommend this over a Diamondback Volcano nozzle? The diamondback would still need to be torqued into place, and not be able to hotswap. But the Tip on the Diamondback being a non-stick surface and potentially better printing quality. What would be your pick?
now here's a question, will that same hot end also fit a ender 3 s1 pro or any printer with a hot end similar to that of a ender 3 s1 pro?
Man, I'm so glad to hear you talk about how unbelievably terrible swapping nozzles on machines like the Prusa Mini is. It was *so* easy to damage things while manipulating two wrenches around a heater block and I'm so glad that dark age is behind us.
whole prusa mini was a terrible machine, I hate mine, tear down the extruder every 10 minutes, flimsy, terrible v6 knockoff hotend, what were they thinking? idk
Great vid. SO ... what's the nozzle size of the new Flow Tech nozzle? .6? I looked and can't seem to find it. Got it .08. That's great. I'm jumping up sizes on the hot tips on my FlashForge Creator 3 Pro. Baby steps this time. .06 to start and maybe .08. soon! Thank you for the knowledge!
Comes with a 0.4 but they have all the sizes for it
My only concern is will future Creality firmware upgrades work with the new nozzles? For example on a Prusa MK3S+ the REVO6 so called easy swap nozzles are not supported and therefore firmware after 3.11 doesn’t work.
i got this printer as an upgrade from the Ender 3 and holy cow its amazing. straight out of the box its been awesome but now i gotta upgrade to this.
Joel a plated brass nozzle will wear out quickly with abrasives,...the plating won't do a lot to stop this. What you really want is is a hardened steel or ruby or diamond or tungsten carbide nozzle.
Well, this absolutely cinches it for me. I was teetering on getting a K1 Max, and an overwhelmingly positive endorsement from the Nerd himself? Well that's good enough for me. Gonna go pick one up tomorrow on sale. Thanks a ton for your videos and time, man. You're a huge help.
Wish you would have tried TPU and compared a benchy printed using both nozzles.
Is there a CHT option? I'd imagine a high flow nozzle would help with a larger nozzle at higher speeds. I find a 0.6mm the best point between thickness, overhang compensation, speed, and weight.
Bricked my printer trying to torque my nozzle/hotend after it leaked.
Currently waiting on Creality support/Replacement parts from China to (hopefully) fix my printer.
Has been a complete nightmare - I've just recently purchased the bambu labs a1 mini since I'm tired of the issues with Creality printers and really just need something that works out of the box.
I'd love to try that hotend as I think his would change everything!! no more broken hotends ftw!!!!!!
Joel your gonna get alot of heat for this video, alot of people have been having issues with their k1's to the point where people are returning them
Yup. I know. I’m not. Is it cherry picked? Is it just a proper machine? I don’t know.
@@3DPrintingNerd At least it could've been mentioned though, the video did sound overly positive. Which is your experience I'm sure, but I think a bit of context is always a good idea to avoid people saying this was "totally paid for".
just looking out for you, from one creator to another, you dont want it to come off like Creality is paying you under the table for promotion when there is a whole community of people having issues with this machine, iam a big fan of you btw just giving you an opinion@@3DPrintingNerd
@@VincentGroenewold You think he wasn't?
I don't believe the guy at all. He'll say whatever the company paying him wants said.
Wow, so does the latest K1 Speedy have the same capability, apart from volume?
Man I wish more people would mention VFA on CoreXY printers. You can see it on the Candy Corn. Coming from a well dialed bed slinger, my K1 Max has terrible VFA in comparison. If I had known this was an issue I would not have purchased this unit and stayed with my caveman printer that bangs out quality prints.
Also, my other new printer Neptune 4 Plus, has its own issues (Zoffset) but the quality prints it pumps out (and faster than the K1 in some aspects) are pretty amazing for just a "bed slinger".
I wish i had a good experience with my K1 Max. Purchased directly from Creality.
Right off the bat, the printer bashed itself into the bed on initial calibration and ripped the build plate sheet. The bed was installed incorrectly from the factory with the front left side much higher. It also dug itself into the back centre while nozzle cleaning.
All messages to the support were auto responded but no tech help called. I managed to tram the bed myself. And was able to get some prints off.
Then came the first firmware update. All seemed to go well, until the unit recalibrated. Throwing error 3000 and error 2522, sensor errors. Printer would not calibrate, or print. Eventually got someone to respond. All they did was email to say i will get a new bed sent to me. Hope i get it. Hope it solves it.
Downgraded the firmware with less than helpful instructions from “live” support. Seriously, took me four times to get them to tell me how. The instructions they went through were incomplete at first missing vital info, then they were incorrect, was like pulling teeth.
I doubt i will ever buy a Creality product ever again. Had less problems with the cheap AliEx Prusia clone i had for almost a decade.
Your review is awesome, and it almost made me move off of a Bambu but then, the comments below. "Weird 5cm layer shifting...maybe this hot end will solve my problems...etc. Then I went back and watched the hotend being installed which is arguably simple but not as simple as the Bambu clip in nozzle. I dunno. My only experience is with Resin printing but I'm back to thinking that the Bambu is the way to go. I feel like Creality was rushed getting this to market. I'm going to get an A1 to start and see where all these vendors land on catching up to Bambu features and revisit when I need a larger format, enclosed printer.
That hotend looks great por TPU! If you have some would be a great video!
Why is the model that is being printed towards the end of the video printing so slow? And what speeds were all your samples printed at?
Just installed mine a few moments ago. Man I hope you're right. I have not had a great experience so far by any means.
I swapped my ender 3 0.4mm nozzle out and always use a 0.8mm nozzle. For the type of prints I do the speed benefit outweighs any quality issue of which there aren’t really any 👍
It's November and I plan to buy my 1st printer at the end of the month for my bday. I already decided on the P1S Combo over the K1 Max but now you are making me hesitate. I already missed the cheapest price of the Co Print KCM Set that will compliment this machine. I backed out because of the combined prices and risks vs the P1S Combo. But if you say the K1 Max is good especially for larger single material prints, I really need to thing what is my priority - cosplay or fun colorful prints in the near future. (CoPrint doesn't ship until March 2024).
I'd say it depends on what you want from your printer. If you're looking for more of a tool to print things, the Bambu might be the right choice, as they have much better quality control and customer support, and you might not mind their more closed off ecosystem. If you're more interested in 3d printing as a hobby, the Creality might be the right choice as it runs more open software and has a much wider support for customization and mods, but has worse quality control, so you might have issues if you get unlucky. The larger build volume of the k1 max might be a big deal, especially for cosplay, being able to print things like helmets in one piece is really nice.
My experience with K1 MAX: it just works. Fast, accurate, even at the "fast" setting. I am using their slicer. I have the Prusa slicer, a Prusa i3MK3+ (great machine, just small and slow, but very good), the Prusa XL (big, needs some work, but like the MK4 only bigger). Since I have problems with the XL, bought the K1 MAX, not expecting anything great, anticipating a return after 2 weeks or 30 days (whichever was the return policy). I was amazed by the print quality, and the speed is beyond awesome. I print PETG only, so that makes things easy - for me and the printer. Only setup problem is getting someone to lift it out of the box for you... :)
Musta got a golden sample lol! My K1 has been troubles upon troubles.
How does plated brass nozzle grant you the ability to print CF and even glow-in-the-dark filament? The latter one is usually the most abrasive filament of them all and would require something like obxidian/tungsten or at least hardened steel to survive an acceptable amount of time, isn't it?
Good question, the filler will abrade the plating off and then the heat transfer to the filament will be back to whatever was plated, probably steel for abrasion resistance. I suppose that as long as you know the flow rate will be reduced you will be ok, it is a lot longer in this case so lots of time to heat the filament.
mpressive upgrade for the K1 Max!
I put revos on my printers and love it. I hope that microswiss option is cheaper.
Me too, I've loved Microswiss since I was learning the ropes on my Ender 5+ and love their products.
I hope they get hardened steel options as well, because while "plated brass" sounds like it's abrasion resistant, it's really not enough for when you're printing TONS of glow-in-the-dark (strontium aluminate), white (with titanium dioxide), and of course the infamous fibers like glass fiber and carbon fiber filaments.
Maybe they can even split the difference with a swaged hardened steel insert into the brass nozzle to get almost "the best of both worlds".
I've submitted an inquiry to the sales department at Micro Swiss but I haven't heard back from them yet... maybe you know the answer.... is there a hardened steel version of their nozzle? And can I get nozzles with different diameters other than the .4mm one included with the hot end?
Ok I gotta ask what torch that is, it looks cool as heck.
So glad you’re finally a member of the big nozzle boys
I picked up my first 3d printer (and ender 5 s1) last year and....it left a realllly bad taste in my mouth. I have basically spent all my time leveling, re-leveling and re-leveling the printer and still cannot get consistent prints.
I'm glad to see this one is a huge improvement...I'm just really hesitant after my 5 s1 experience.
I keep telling people if it has those giant knobs under it don't waste your time. The new ender 3 v3 se is the only ender I'd recommend. Then there is the creality cr10-se and of course this printer as well. A year ago I'd tell people don't waste your time with creality.
Some of the early Ender 5 S1 machines had a slight twist in the X axis extrusion which causes those leveling issues.
is there a link to your K1 max review/unboxing?
No, it was recorded as a just in case. I didn't record for publish, just as a record in case something bad happened.
Considering how expensive nozzles are here from stores (not counting aliexpress) i do not like nozzle and heatbreak combo, nozzle for ender 3 at the only 3d printer related things supplier in serbia is like $10 and the heatbreak is around $22 so how much would this kind of thing be? $30 per nozzle? I would save money to order custom machined nozzles
This is the printer I'm leaning towards the most, but I wish there was an option for multi material printing, that's the only thing this printer is missing for me. I don't want to cave into Bambu and get locked into their ecosystem, but it does have everything except for the huge print bed, which is at least better than my Prusa mini
Get a Prusa then 👍
@@WerHatDieKokosnuss Prusa's CoreXY printer is too expensive and that's my number 1 requirement if I'm going to spend money on a new printer. $1000 more than a fully kitted Bambu X1C for just two nozzles. If I could afford it I would though.
Bambulab doesnt lock you in... its a printer. You can use a different one if you want.
But K1 Max printers also have custom parts, no?But at least for Bambu you can buy most of the parts already for same or cheaper price than regular stores. Im in search of a printer to upgrade to and right now settling on Bambu P1S with filament switch box. What bothers me in K1 Max is what many youtubers reported , like poor design choices, filament enters into head unit at sharp angle, which can produce wear, the tube can also unlock the extruder at some angles, the head belts are not running in parallel (more of esthetic issue it seems but still) , questionable firmware (people reporting here that nozzle can smash into bed), ai features not doing much. The bed size is nice and the usb port for print files if you want to go offline. But everything else is questionable. Judging from other video neither printer is truly locked, and you can swap every part you want, its more of a question if it will fit in the enclosed body constraints.
With Bambu it seems it will just work and for K1 it will just work ... after you change nozzle, after you change extruder, after you put clean klipper on , after.... and so on :/
@@Alexander_Of_Pines All good points. I ended up caving in and going with the X1 Carbon with the AMS. It's just too good and now $150 off plus filament discounts. I was originally thinking if I did get the X1 Carbon I would wait to buy the AMS later, but I ended up deciding to go for it because it saves me an extra $100 later by getting the combo and I can pay for it over 6 months through PayPal interest free. I know I cohave done what you did with the P1S, but I don't plan on buying another printer for a long time and I want it to have all the features I'm looking for. The build volume is honestly enough for now and if I really need something bigger I can get the Neptune 4 Max for not that much in comparison.
i havent even got through the first 1/2 of the oem spool they send... it keeps clogging, the hotend has died and stpped heating consistantly, got a new one then the extruder stopped working..... had this 4 months waiting for repair parts for 3/4 of that time....
I love how the models are well known, tuned models. Because not everyone will print those constantly and have no issues. A lot of people will print other models.
But that's just on that. Micro Swiss is awesome
Is this Dragon slt a selled model? Please, would send the link to buy? Thanks
A lot of people saying .4 should come instead of .6
.4 IS great, but with a .4 out of the box you can print anything, as long as it's not glow in the dark, sparkles, carbon fiber, glass fiber, wood, marble etc
.6 you can print anything out of the box.
Its just a better option for out of the box because it covers more materials.
So far I didn't have any issues with glow in the dark filament using the .4 hardened steel nozzle on the K1 :)
@@McOldwolf It's the glow in the dark that has flakes, like Captubes Firefly blue or Amolen Starry Sky
Hello. If you have to choose between X1C and K1 MAX which will be your choice?
X1C.