I love videos like this. Simple and to the point. I walk away from this having a better understanding of how to replace my Kias ball joints. Thank you sir!
Say what you will about KIA and Hyundai quality, but they sure do make their cars easy to work on. Most cars you have to remove the CV shaft and then press it out of the knuckle. This is easy. I have had similiar experiences with allot of these cars. Simple, logical, and thoughful of the end user construction coupled with easy accessibility. The price of parts are good as well. Great daily drivers!
Being as the ball joint is no good, you could use a pickle fork to remove the ball joint from the control arm before you unbolt the ball joint from the knuckle, that way you don’t have to fight with it.
Thanks for posting this. It really helps me. I do have a question though: Are the torque specs a "dry" value or "lubricated"? In the past I have snapped off bolts when using the dry value on lubricated bolts. The anti seize will definitely change the K-factor.
What’s your experience with the stabilizer links? The nut of the lower bolt is inaccessible with a impact wrench, because he’s reversed mounted. When he’s over tightened it’s a real pain in the .ss
I'm scoping out this vid as I have to do this on an 07 Kia Sportage. I just kinda cringed a little bit as you were jacking up the suspension on the brake rotor bending the shield a little bit. I know it's an extra step, but wouldn't it be better to actually remove the caliper and rotor first?
I love videos like this. Simple and to the point. I walk away from this having a better understanding of how to replace my Kias ball joints. Thank you sir!
Say what you will about KIA and Hyundai quality, but they sure do make their cars easy to work on. Most cars you have to remove the CV shaft and then press it out of the knuckle. This is easy. I have had similiar experiences with allot of these cars. Simple, logical, and thoughful of the end user construction coupled with easy accessibility. The price of parts are good as well. Great daily drivers!
Being as the ball joint is no good, you could use a pickle fork to remove the ball joint from the control arm before you unbolt the ball joint from the knuckle, that way you don’t have to fight with it.
Thanks for posting this. It really helps me. I do have a question though: Are the torque specs a "dry" value or "lubricated"? In the past I have snapped off bolts when using the dry value on lubricated bolts. The anti seize will definitely change the K-factor.
The spec on dry
What’s your experience with the stabilizer links? The nut of the lower bolt is inaccessible with a impact wrench, because he’s reversed mounted. When he’s over tightened it’s a real pain in the .ss
You could have just put pressure on the balljoint with floor jack and used a pneumatic chisel instead of a sledge.
Muy buen video. Gracias
Nice looking car 👌👌
I'm scoping out this vid as I have to do this on an 07 Kia Sportage. I just kinda cringed a little bit as you were jacking up the suspension on the brake rotor bending the shield a little bit. I know it's an extra step, but wouldn't it be better to actually remove the caliper and rotor first?
So is it 65 or 55 on the center