Harmonic Balancer Removal/Installation
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2016
- Today we show you how to remove and install a harmonic balancer. This video will apply to just about any engine as most harmonic balancers are tightly fitted to a crank snout and attached with one bolt in the center and they will all have a key way. We show you how to pull off a balancer and in this case we created our own tool to install the balancer with some automotive grade all thread rod and three nuts and a washer. Amazon purchase links below.
Tyler,
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Video Equipment:
GoPro7: amzn.to/33FWCAW
GoPro Accessory Kit: amzn.to/2Uehig4
GoPro Stabilizer Gimbal: amzn.to/2UvX5Bz
Harmonic Balancer Tools:
Puller & Installer Kit: amzn.to/2Ka2qcZ
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BUY THE ITEMS IN THIS VIDEO (AMAZON.CA):
Video Equipment:
GoPro7: amzn.to/2UdHtnk
GoPro Accessory Kit: amzn.to/3bl9wXy
GoPro Stabilizer Gimbal: amzn.to/3dlBt3r
Harmonic Balancer Tools:
Puller & Installer Kit: amzn.to/2XHvpg7
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CONTACT ME:
E-Mail: tylerovens@me.com - Auta a dopravní prostředky
that you for making this video
i was having problems getting mine back on, because the instal kit that i rented wouldn't work
haha.... but your video should make it work
thanks
i appreciate it
Jeff Fuehr No problem! Sometimes things can be tricky that's why I like to put these videos on so it can help people out. Thanks.
thanks for posting!
My thought on heating up balancer is that it might heat up distort melt new seal on the way in.
It will, DO NOT do that ever.
joseph puchel summit Racing recommends the same procedure also
this procedure is different than anything I have ever done.. One I don't preheat it, second you should but a small amount of silicone in the keyway slot.. Also that blue packet that came with the ARP bolt is not thread locker.. is moly lube so that you get a true torque spec.
What gets torqued?
@@yeudsiegal5285 tighten down. There is a specification to how tight the bolt should be
@@Saleen85111 yes 90 ft. Lbs.? Also your comment on how the balancer may only go in one way? Does this mean one cannot put it on wrong? When the balancer is removed must it be at TDC?
@@yeudsiegal5285 the crank has a keyway and the balancer has a cut out for that keyway.. so as long as it's the correct balancer for that engine, it should go on with no issues.. and the bolt is torqued to 120ft-lbs
@@Saleen85111 i am simply taking and putting the the same balancer back on, for i want to put on a chrome timing gear cover. My engine is a SBC 350. I will torque the 5/8 bolt to 120 ft lbs? What about the other three bolts on the pulley?
I got the rod and removed my whole front end just to install the harmonic balancer. Jk, great video!
Cut rod to length of course ;)
And the degree marks line up well at TDC on 0*?
i was also wondering if they had to time it? another guy on youtube did
hey guy i have the same engine in a boat do you think this damper would work on it ?
whats the part number? thank you .
fishing big hits Yeah it should work! Got it from summit racing. Forget the part number. It's for a 347 stroker motor
No, you have to get the right balance for your engine if it's a 50 or 20 ounce balance crank. Without the right one your engine will shake to high hell and damage Alot in the process. Hope you got the right one.
So you were using the timing marks that had the white powder or whatever it was on them correct? Also was the engine at tdc when you installed the balancer ?
For timing yeah, and it doesn't matter, there's a key way slot for the balancer it can only go on one way.
@@OvensGarage i know but was you at tdc on that engine when you installed it ?
@@OvensGarage im asking because i have small block Ford 306 that I just got put back together and I can't get the timing right on it and I think it's because we're going off of the wrong timing marks on the balancer my timing indicator is in the same place that yours is in and I'm using the timing marks that are in front of the ones that you're using that's why I was asking if you were using the ones with white powder on them because that tells me that I'm using the wrong one
what type of grease do you use to grease it?
Darren Stevens Doesn't really matter, anything to make it slide in easier. I think we put a bit of wheel bearing grease on there
When you say 5/8 18 the 18 is the TPI ??
Yes,
This wont mess up your front main seal?
No
If heated, yes. A slight bit of motor oil on the snout and some RTV on the keyways is the correct way to do it
OGskunkMASTA no it won’t, engines get hot so do the seals. He didn’t over heat it. By the way he followed instructions for the new harmonic balancer.
Did i hear the balancer may only go in one way?
It has a key-way so it can only be installed in one location.
I HATE the goddamned shiny HB that came on my 427 ford racing crate motor...timing light strobe on a shiny thing in the dark...markings on that seem a bit better.
Where can I get this washer????? Someone please help
Got it from profasco, a local fastener store, like fastenal.
Tyler Ovens what size is the washer?
???
It’s just a big thick washer. You can probably get one at Home Depot or any hardware store. I just used a washer so the large nut wouldn’t tear up the balancer.
the correct torque for that has to be more than 90 ft pounds
because some of the bolts around the front brakes are 90, and they're only 1/4 of the size of the balancer bolt
Bolt size means nothing on torque specs. There are many variables such as material composition, gasket material, thread pitch etc... When in dount look up the torque specs and dont base it upon what you "think" it should be regardless of size.
LOL appears that you finished the install with the bolt that stays in there. i dont see why this can't be the way you install it.
When you rip the threads out of your crank snout from pulling in on with only 2/3 threads biting come back and tell me why you shouldn't do that.
@@OGskunkMASTA if you can get 2/3 of the thread engaged before tightening then you would not strip any threads. The reason is that in many applications the bolt is not long enough to reach any threads before it is pressed on so you simply cant press it with the stock bolt. If you can get a bolt that is 1" longer and the same thread pitch then you can use that to tighten it until it bottoms out then use washers to take up any slack and tighten again before installing the original crank bolt.
@@Erklzanderz Or, have all the threats biting from a install kit you can rent for free or get a nice install/removal kit for $75-85. Not worth a chance because the bolt is harder than the crank threads and too much stress and you're yanking the nice engine you built or pulling your stock engine right out for a rebuild at that point. Not worth it.
@@OGskunkMASTA if you are going to be doing this type of thing on a regular basis then I agree, but for the average DIY guy that is watching a video like this, then the method I mentioned earlier is absolutely efficient. The crank is heat treated and hardened steel so the threads are plenty strong. We are not talking about cast aluminum here that will strip out by just thinking about tightening it. To each his own but my original statement stands as a fact that if you have 2/3 of your bolt threads engaged then crank it down because the only way you would strip the crank threads (which worst case scenario, could even be retapped instead of pulling the crank) is if you dont have the keyway aligned and just keep reefing on it like an idiot. In that case you probably shouldnt be working on any motor let alone a race engine. But, If you have access to a puller and installer tool, and they happen to have the right pitch hardware, then that is definitely the fool proof way to go! Cheers bud