How Big and how Fast can this print!? - NEW Affordable LONGER LK5 3D printer - full review
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- čas přidán 27. 11. 2022
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LK5 Pro 3D printer: s.zbanx.com/r/l0Ft5oFNxHZt
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Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his welded and hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.
In this episode we review the new LONGER LK5 3D printer. We'll look at what's new about this machine such as the no filament detection feature and the bed levelling assist and also the potential limitations of this machine
Check out CHEPs channel for information on 3D print settings:
• Extra Fast 0.6 Nozzle ...
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These failures are caused by the material cooling down before it's properly fused with the underlying layers. This can be caused by too low ambient temperature, draft, or your cooling fan running to high. Lower your part cooling fan setting or put a box around your printer to provide a more stable ambient temperature. Also moist filament can cause issues, so I recommend buying or building a filament dryer.
Yea, no. He doesn't need an enclosure. Nor is it part cooling being excessive. So you even own a printer?
@@saltwaterrook4638 Care to explain why you think that or you just want to say no? Yes I "even own a printer", I have two low end printers and a Voron 2.4.
@@sgroef6068 if he was using ABS or nilon or similar, then yes an enclosure will help, if you can't print PLA with out an enclosure, you have something wrong.
Just turn up the heat,
@@mikejh6551 he never said he need an enclosure, he just said it can help with too low ambient temp, especially with this high prints
Increase the head temp to 237, that what I print PLA at and at high speed as well and never had problems. Why do ppl never increase the temp to see if that is the problem?! Gees.
Great video! I have the same printer and love it. I didn't know anything about 3d printing when I bought it and I'm still learning a lot. I've had good success with the printer, but I'm still learning how to change the settings and how to slice. I was printing a spiral planter, which was is similar to a vase. The bottom of the planter is small and then it gets "big" rather quickly. Once the base was down, I got nothing but stringing! I was using silk PLA and a .04mm nozzle, 130%, 60C bed and the nozzle temp was 200C. The designer told me this: "When you scale the planter make sure that the slicer creates a continuous path around the small wings/ blades of the planter. If the printer has to retract and fill a little gap at every wing it will retract very often and may cause stringing. Also ensure good part cooling with PLA at those overhangs in the beginning. I don't know what he's talking about or how to change the settings he's talking about. Can you PLEASE help??
I am impressed with this machine. I am also agreeing with you that "negative" reviews should be done. Whenever I make a decision to buy equipment like this, I try to find out as much as I can, both positive and negative reviews. Keep coming with the things you find, positives and negatives.
Thank you Wayne I'll do my best. Cheers J
I just started watching the Channel and I believe you! You show NO bias
Thank you. I do my best to do a review I would like to see myself. Cheers J
Great video! I have the LK5 pro and have printed 100’s of hours without any machine failure. I have a printed a giant 400 mm high Christmas ornament in vase mode. I will always be a fan of Longer machines
That's really good to hear that these models pass the test of time. Cheers J
Thanks for the info on this 3D printer, been after one for a while and the black Friday deal is fantastic, so I just got one.
Well done. I hope you have the best time with it. Cheers J
you leave me wanting to see more lad. i will definitely subscribe. i hope to see more of the heater and now more of the printer. i just can't wait
Thank you so much. Lots to come on both, and metalworking, CNC lasers, plasma tables, steam engines, charcoal making, shepherd hut building, sculpture design and more. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle i can not wait. thank you so much :3
Very nice review and information about this 3 D printer. Very nice job. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
Thank you so much for your kind support. God bless you also. Cheers J
I was blown away... And now late for where I should be!
Ive made a few signs on my Ender 5 Plus. Best direct drive extruder for quick by hand swaps during prints is the Creality E-fit with a Spider hotend. Pause the print and release and pull the filament, Theres very little left in the nozzle if you do it quick. Hit print and it does its thing.
My first printer was a FLSUN Delta printer and I wanted a cartesian printer to do comparisons. I spent hours shopping and comparing and I chose the Longer LK5 based on its very low price and its print volume. I really liked the support braces and that swayed me to purchase it.
It has been an excellent value and possibly my best and most refined printer. I have other Core XY and Delta printers now, but this Longer is the standard I use to compare what a proper 3D printer should be. It is most definitely the best for the money and who wants to have an Ender, when everyone else has the same thing?
Thank you that's great to hear. Cheers J
In the States, Amazon has it for $369.99 BUT if you look for it there is a $70 off "coupon". Mine arrives tomorrow so I will be in full learning mode as it is my first one ever.
I like those stabilizer bars on the front. My Artillery II could use a pair of those to stop the wobble at higher print speeds.
SUPER THANKS!!!
Thank you for this info
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Another thing about 3D printed parts on a printer is that they need to take the top temp of the print without weakening or getting soft.
A printer enclosure really helps, ive had 90% fewer failures thanks to it keeping a constant temp.
Printing using 1mm nozzle may cause problems if you print fast as your nozzle may not have enough heating power to properly heat the filament before it's pushed out. You'll have to slow down a bit if this is the case which would negate the faster speed. Bigger isn't usually faster after a certain nozzle diameter.
great review!👍 ...luckily I'm able to outsource my printing needs to my brother - it indeed needs quite some tinkering and practice to have the printers run without failure 😅
Thank you so much. Too right 👍. Cheers J
super Thanks..
Interesting , Thank You
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I haven’t even started watching this yet (ads playing), and I’m eager with anticipation!
I should add, a 3D printer is high on the interest list with teenage design & technology offspring in the household…
They're very cool and fun to tinker with. TPU is challenging but super strong. Cheers J
14:20 I have found that every filament needs an e steps calibration on the sxtruder... color and type of material can be different not to mention temp...
Hey Josh, hope you're well. Checking daily to see if you've posted a new video. Hopefully you'll do a CNC plasma cutter with upgrades video soon. Cheers mate!!
Hi. Thank you. I've been filming lots and been very busy with work. Should have a couple of videos posted soon. I've not upgraded the plasma yet as I haven't got the space currently. All the very best. Cheers J
Super Thanks 👍🏻
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I've been looking at getting a 3D printer for years now but never made the leap. 2 weeks ago a friend gifted me with a very slightly used MP Select Mini V2 that he bought for a video he made for his CZcams channel. It may be used but only has around 1 hour of use on it so I consider it to be brand new. I'm shocked at how quickly the "bug" has bitten me and now I'm searching for one with a much larger build volume. Videos like this sure are helping me figure out what I really want vs what I really need. The single biggest challenge I've encountered is in figuring out all the jargon used in different design programs. I am NO artist by any means and my brain keeps reverting to my drafting classes back in high school...a LONG time ago...so I've settled on FreeCAD for now. For me, everything I print is utilitarian and I won't ever use it for models or decorative stuff so I think I made the correct choice. But build volume is where I'm running short and this printer seems like it will fit the bill nicely. I suspect the way I will use it wouldn't be affected by the issues you encountered. I really appreciate the "real-world" review shown here and especially the side-by-side comparison to the ender 3.
Thank you so much. I like to push things and myself to the limits to see what is realistically achievable in a short amount of time when receiving a new machine. I'll do my best to continue making videos that are valued to new buyers and other makers. Cheers J
Thank you for sharing your experience. I am looking for and evaluating my first 3d printer also. With similar 'CAD' and board experience I will be 'ramping up' my knowledge to learn 3d printing. I'm thinking this is my first printer choice. I previously was confused by the "ender" series and quite honestly looking at the Ender 5 plus. Seems like that printer is a bit old but has similar specs. Does anyone have thoughts on the pros and cons between the Longer and Ender 5 plus? Can I make production parts for Auto and Motorcycle use?
the imperfect vase looks like it could be a lamp shade.
thanks mate.
Thank you. Cheers J
hi
the printer thing
you need to check your extruder gear and if the extruder gear is biting into the filament correctly
also your layers are not consistent ,check the z couplers for flex
also it looks like its a layer adhesion thing so lower your layer height ,a good starting point is half your nozzle diameter
also your not supposed to print the calibration cube with infill !!!
the calibration cube is supposed to have 0 infill and see if your printer can bridge the top of the cube correctly
Ya my e3pros looks tiny next to my lk5 pro. I am a ender guy myself I run a 3d printing business. But I am really liking the longer lk5 pro myself. Was easy to assemble although not my first rodeo. My first print was flawless came out great. I also like the bed leveling option super easy. On my ender I run bed level gcode I have to search the SD to find it. Definitely easier having it built in and it works great. I got this printer for 295 US Definitely worth the price.
Nice one well done. Cheers J
I bought 3 of these for a design idea I have, and they are fantastic for the price, upgrading one with a dual nozzle extruder for filament changes
Nice well done 👍. Cheers J
@Joshua De Lisle I forgot to mention that I disabled the filament runout sensors on these by closing the loop with a little wire for a jumper. The sensor being optical I guess caused some issues for me
Awesome piece of equipment Joshua....maybe something I could invest in....🙂
Thank you. I started with the cheapest $80 one I could find and it was useless. I got the ender 3 shortly after and because of the number of videos around it I learned a lot. this model is definitely good for the money and gives a lot more room for bigger prints. cheers J
Thank you Joshua....🙂
When leveling, for best results and fewer repeats do one diagonal first and then the other diagonal (e.g. front left -> rear right -> front right -> rear left). That's because of how the bed is rocking on diagonals.
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4:50 Emissivity is probably the cause of the different readings.
A very good review. Commenting on videos also helps. Call upon viewers to do so ;)
Thank you. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Cheers!
Hi really interesting Vid…. I have 4 printers but the one I use mostly is the one on my desk
It’s a ender 3 prototype which I purchased from Creality before their launch at £60+ 20 import tax
Worked well until the bed driver died…. Contacted Creality and thy sent me a new board
Now I have had this printer for years with no problem except the ware and tare only extruders
And the PTFE Teflon tube that goes hard and brittle
The rest still working fine….as I use this commercially that’s not bad going .
Thank you. Well done. Cheers J
11:41
You should use rounded G-commands (for such big diameters), so that those vertical edges (lines) you see aren't visible.
E.g. in Cura the Plugin EdgeWelder (or called something similar)
Good tip. Thank you. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Hey Josh. Great Vid Mate. I have a question.. The board on this apparently supports another z port for dual rods. Have you thought of upgrading>
@@EliasAtElijah thank you. Yes that's definitely a possibility. Cheers J
My Longer LK5 Pro is a champ with PLA and PLA+
What is the fastest you've printed PETG? Is there anyway to print ASA on these machines? Thanks for the videos.
I bought my son a CR-10 a few years back so he does all my printing needs, but.....
As for reviews and being paid for them, I value yours no matter the yay or nay.
I'd like to add this. Every product you positively review makes me want to buy it. Good thing I have self control and too many machines already.
You're very kind. Thank you so much. Cheers J
Now get back to smithing !
@@manmachinemake3708 lol you'll love what I have lined up. I hope to start teaching courses at the UKs oldest working water powered forge sometime soon. I'm actually visiting tomorrow to meet the team there doing the restoration. Big power hammers powered by water! Cheers J
That sounds AWESOME ! We don't have much of that here in the States and what there is, is typically part of a government or other organization that is not used for anything other than "show"
I'm almost done with the rehab of my own forge and will be moving metal again in the next few weeks. I hope to have the 1920's 100# Moloch power hammer back in service in the next few months as well (Maybe I'll post a video.... ?)
Cheers !
@@manmachinemake3708 that's great well done 👍. Yeah this forge was built in the 1200s. It had stopped being a working forge just 30 years ago. The kit is insane. All belt driven and working. I had to oil the wheel while it was turning. The shaft is over 4' in girth. It's a beast!
Can't wait for this steam generator!
Me too. it's beginning to come together. It may be a while as I've got several projects to finish first. I've got all the parts mostly. Cheers J
4:57 Glass takes LONGER to heat up: BOOM BOOM!! 🦊🦊🦊🦊
Great video! I have one now based on your reviews and others. Could you share your cura settings for this printer?
Thank you. So much. There should be a link to the channel I copied the settings from in the description. Cheers J
i noticed my prints get bad at the top of the print area i think its because the shell is so thin the jerk can misaligned the nozzle
resin printers also have layer lines, they can be short but they're still there and visible
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This video was very useful to me. I've been thinking about getting a 3D printer. But after watching this video, I can see that it's just too difficult to mess with. Thanks.
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I have the Longer LK4 and it came 80% complete and was really easy to get it up and running.
@@Kekker1944 The problem isn’t getting the machine to squirt out hot plastic. The problem appears to be in designing objects to print. It appears that this is much more complicated than the actual printing process. It looks like there’s a lot more to it than making a 3d model in software.
@@CCoburn3 3d modeling has been a large industry for a while now... You can find or commission anything you want done pretty quickly and relatively cheap. What were you looking to print?
@Aapplesaucee That's what I figured. Unless you're going to print a lot of stuff, it's probably better just to have experts print it.
I would like you to review the new Elegoo Saturn 2 Resin 3D Printer and the Elegoo Mercury Wash & Cure two unit system.
As the Saturn pints very big prints at 8K It be nice to see how you cope with it and the wash & cure system?
Loving the 3D Printer review!
Thank you Colin. I'll look into that. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Cool.. Happy Christmas to you and have a great New Year too. 8 )
i love my LK5 but its not new, got mine a year ago, bed clips are crap, and bed springs leave a lot to be desired. i replaced bed springs with silicone spacers, and got better bed clips. also ended up adding a second z screw to make it duel. makes a huge change in quality. recently my filiment run out sensor has failed, and i have replaced the hot end as a complete unit and its good as new. not really fast but it does great prints
Thank you. Yeah I noticed they gave me a spare sensor. Must wear out over time. Cheers J
I love my longer lk5 pro you can make full helmets on it
More heat will make the filament stick together better, also try PLA+, its stronger that PLA.
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Well, if you just load it behind the initial filament that ran out, you would run into problems if you use retraction
When you use a larger nozzle size the force required to extrude the filament goes up, plus the nozzle temp also must be increased to allow the nozzle to keep at temperature while melting a larger volume of filament/sec. It’s all to do with Bernoulli's principle, don’t ask me in too much detail, I’ve always been useless in fluid dynamics.
In vase mode the diameter variance effects the time taken to print a layer and hence effects the temperature of the layers while being printed and impacts layer adhesion, smaller diameters get printed quicker so material temps differentials between layers is less where larger circumferences cool more between layers and can cause issues with layer adhesion and warping.
Heated or enclosures can help with material temps between layers and improve layer heights. Also dry your filaments, moisture kills filament printing and all filaments will be effected, some worse than others.
Silk pla is weaker than standard pla materials but increasing your temps will help.
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Great video..How about a homemade grinder to recycle the mistakes..and possibly use other plastics like milk jug , laundry detergent jug etc..you would also need a filament maker too.. side note seen a few powered wood log splitters turned into plastic injection machines..perhaps another day project..lol
Thank you that's a great idea I'll look into that. cheers J
Hey. For 3d I use design spark mechanical. It's very capable, and work in many ways like fusion 360, but it's free. I always wonder why I never hear anyone talk about it
I'll take a look. Cheers J
Good video
Thanks Todd. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle 👍🏻
For some reason on my prints i get like little dots of filament and as the print gets smaller they get more common i use pla on the longer lk5 pro upgraded
That may be because you have it set on random seam position. Cheers J
room temp my be put glass box around it keep temp same level.
I am interested in getting a printer to make positives which I can then cast the negative in metal, any recommendations. I'm looking for good surface finish so that I the cast object won't have a rough surface and I am also mainly interested in casting fairly large objects...any suggestions appreciated
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So what about the money? How much did the vase cost?
I print prototype pots for a concrete company on my Sunlu S8 (same print volume) and the average pot dimensions are 600mm dia x 600mm tall. So unfortunately, no vase mode for me because I print the pots in about 12 pieces.
That's interesting. Nice one. Cheers J
Those layer lines are from cheap FDM printers. If you have a high quality machines the layers will be much more consistent and almost match resin. Check out the Wuxn WXR.
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great video thanks, where can I buy in the UK please?
should be a link in the description for you. cheers J
Just curious, but where could I get the part that the filament sensor screws into? It’s also screwed into the extruder, but I can’t seem to find it. The filament has rubbed down the attachment so much to where the filament isn’t even rubbing on the sensor anymore. To be clear, it’s not the sensor and it’s not the extruder, it is the part that the sensor us screwed into. Thanks
I would suggest contacting LONGER directly. Cheers J
ive been at this 3d printing for quite a while now,
and it looks like this printer has come a long way,
since i brought my first 3d printer four years ago.
but i have to say since i brought a resin printer,
i havent used my filament printers since,
i think we all want high detail and smoothness,
in our prints,
some thing i find that filament printers dont truly give,
the resin printer i have is floorless.
thanks for the video
its always good to have a review.☺
all my best
simon
Thank you so much. I'll see if I can review one of LONGERs resin printers. Cheers J
Rather not have to clean a printer out everytime I want to print something and deal with harsh odor and chemicals. Resin printing is inferior in that regard. FDM can get good enough details for anyone as long as the prints aren't too small.
Great printer! Sketch up is still my favorite software, easy to use and create! can still find make 2017 for free! shame they seem to like to price themselves out of the market a bit!.. sketch up is still quite expensive as it is an annual fee...
for a sturdy print reduce later height to around 0.03. this will ensure the layers get a good bond to each other..
@@aidenjohns8248 thank you. Yes I like Sketch up. I got it when it was a fixed fee £230 in 2016. It's all I use and have a good selection of plugins. Definitely getting pricey as you say. I may try learning blender but that's not so good for engineering. Cheers J
hi mate cracking video..do you know of a CAD type program to write printer programs..im a CNC machinist so would like to write programs on my laptop then transfer to printer..cheers buddy
Hi Dave. Any CAD software that can save STL files will work. There are free versions but I use SketchUp pro which you have to pay for. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle thanks a lot for that mate 👍
Recalculate your E-steps since you went with a larger nozzle.
what you should do is a estep calibration buddy ;) thats what u need here. The "build up" u mention can be cured with tuning of the printer sir. What version of marlin is the printer running? I guess its a 8 bit board with a 1.x version of marlin. IF so you need to lower the jerk value and save it to the printer. Alternatively u can enable jerk control in cura if you use that slicer. (and you should) Also reduce the x and y acceleration from what i think is set to 500 on your printer down to 400 at first. keep lowering the jerk incrementally until desired result is reached. The best for the printer is to flash the firmware to 2.1.1
This will give you something called linear advance and j and k values. These are found bu printing a test pattern. they are really fast new ways of tuning retractions and s curves, flow control and much much more. If have any question do not hestitate to contact me.
Keep printing mate!
@JoshuaDeLisle. sure....
@JoshuaDeLisle. thats why u got a . there isnt it?
@JoshuaDeLisle. sure sure... seems legit😂
Critical filament out firmware problem
When the filament runs out the Z topper motor does not recieve holding voltage so you get a drop in Z height while you change the filament. There is absolutely no point in having a filament run out sensor with out making sure the Z axis can hold position for the filament change. This also applies to stopping to change filament color.
I message Longer about it and the customer service said they woul forward it to the engineers
Its not compensated in the firmware?
Sent my ender 3 v2 back after a month. tried everything with it due to wouldn't stick , printing in wrong place. That stupid cat you get as dem0 print .Could carve it out by hand near enough on how long it takes to print . I may try again with a new 3d printer next year due to the blender software is fun.
I got something for you too .
Hi first time viewer here. You mentioned an enclosure I think that would help with your failed prints having a more stable printing environment.
Thank you. Cheers J
I got this printer about 3 or 2 months ago and I love it as it is also my first but after a month and a half it starting having some problems which where simple to fix except the problem that started about 2 weeks ago. My rafts would stick to my prints like if it was part of it. I later found out it could be because the x axis not being even and it was a bit wobbly. "Easy fix, all I need to do is tighten those nuts on the wheels". I have taken it apart and reasibled it I have looked up videos but no matter what I do nothing works. Even though I get rid of the wobble, the axis won't move up and down evenly. There's always one wheel that's not on the rail. I've thought of getting a 2nd z axis bar which may be the only solution but is there any way I can fix it?
one of the guide wheels should have a cam nut which you can adjust to make sure all the wheel are engaged evenly. the problem with 4 points of cantact is that only 3 will be fully engaged at any time. after a long period of use sometimes the nosels get worn and affect the initial layer height which is also a possibility and so need replacing. after a while the bed can lose adjustment from minor vibration and so periodically needs re leveling also. have you tried any of those points already? cheers J
@@joshuadelisle yes those nuts I have adjusted many times. Even if everything is tighten the way it should be and the x axis is even. The left side will go up first. It's like if the right side is to tight and the left is not. And if i lossen it the x axis just becomes uneven. I'll probably just go for the 2nd z axis upgrade since that seems to be the only solution besides replacing the nozzle. Are the creality z axis kits good to use with the Longer?
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How do you think about the Ender 5 plus? Better or same like the longer?
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Always printed on a fat borosilicate glass plate from the local glassmasters. petg and asa+ i use a wide brim with a 0.3 brim distance for easy peel off. abs i use a raft and a cardboardbox with a fan and outside vent duct. (as hillbilly as it sounds 😅but she works! ) tpu is a breeze like pla and is just a an xx lines of skirt for purge.
They all stick like mad! I have to wait till the plate cools off to roomtemp to get them off. but they are all mirror finished firstlayer ;) ppl dont believe me but i dont care about that, all i use is "jif universal" glasscleaner at 55c and wipe with cotton shoptowel. Fresh each time. no reuse. I swear by josef prusa on this. if u dont believe me u can come see for ur self 🙃
Is ventilation a safety issue with these machines or is it ok to do this in your room with a window cracked?
It depends on the filament. Pla is fine, others may not be. Cheers J
Just purchased one for $300. Hoping to print Mando parts
Nice well done 👍 cheers J
The Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo 3D Printer can be bought for £225 right now. Not sure what ender version you use.
The deals for the Longer are very close to that. Cheers J
BRACES GO ON THE BACK
I noticed you are in a coat and beeny... Just wondering if the temperature in the shop is too cold for printing. shrinking warping?
Possible. The air fans are very powerful on this machine and I think I needed to reduce them a lot. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I have a delta Predator , Huge, In the garage, caused all kinds of problems as winter came till I through blankets on the sides. I am now puting a 10x10 grow tent in garage for 3d printing only/no plants no moisture. just heat, air, fdm and resin.... Like your stuff, good luck!
@@tomyocom5886 great idea. Well done. Thank you so much. Cheers J
I use Autodesk 123, what is the exact product model name and where can you get it?
There should be a link in the description. Cheers J
A 3D printer which has 3D printer parts...sounds like the next step would be an auto repair function like the best space ships have (for instance Red Dwarf)
Yes although you'll want to print the parts before they fail otherwise you won't be able to when you need them. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Obviously...
i just got this printer as well, mine came with a giant ass load of issues. the PID wasn't tuned, one of the fans doesn't work, the gantry adjustment stripped the metal with nut loosened and 1 turn, the extruder is doing funky things as well. I have a older longer printer that worked out of the box, these new ones are gutter trash
That's disappointing to hear. They should refund you or replace the machine at least. Have you contacted their help page?
Might have to try their 4k resin printer against my wife's Mars 2 Pro
Nice 👍 I might as well. Cheers J
If you're gonna use a thermal camera stick a piece of electrical tape on the center of the glass panel and it will give you the temperature
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I have this printer and used it to print a hydroponic tower, just remember mistakes are the path to success
Awesome. Thank you. Cheers J
Most of the time I print with 1mm and 1,2mm nozzle and had the same problems. Had to reduce the speed, the pla just wasn't melting right.
bougt a cheap Chinese volcano Heatblock for 3€. Problem solved.
You have the hands of an 80 year old man, lol.
Seems like the head is installed with some strange angle to x axis....🤔
Bought the Longer LK5 Pro 3d printer and it didn't work right out of the box. The Z axis would only go up but not down, wouldn't home and was doing strange things. So, I contacted Longer support to find out that my printer had a bad motherboard. Then they told me they would ship me a new motherboard and to fix it myself. I guess they got the name LONGER for it want work long but takes longer to get it fixed. I wouldn't trust anything with the brand name Longer on it. I have three other 3d printers from three different manufactures and have had no issues. Again, I wouldn't trust anything with the brand name Longer on it.
That's a shame. So far all their machines have been great for me
@@joshuadelisle There help support is very poor not happy with there service. I have a Weedo X40 and just got an Ender 3 max and I'm really happy with them. The funny thing is I have an old Anet4 that was my first 3d printer and it still a great little printer.
My bed will no longer heat. The screen now reads "Error code 6 - Bed failed to heat" I checked all end cables and connectors, no luck. Anyone else having this issue...?
I havent but I would recomend getting in contact with LONGER about it. cheers J
So you're saying the filament head doesn't get hot enough therefore it was a weak vessel? Is this what caused the failure? Look forward to hearing from you. Bye for now, Ken
I think I had the cooling fans on too high. It has excellent cooling but I didn't manage it very well. More 3d printers are coming soon. Cheers J
Sometimes the slightest gust of wind will make a print fail. Doors swinging open, the a/c coming on, breathing wrong. lol
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printing the last vase upside down would have better results
There is a free version of Fusion 360...
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Seems like a lot of money for really slow printing lol! I built 3x 360mm plate 600mm height Deltas for same price as one of these.... I can't believe even watching a person use paper to level a 3d printer in 2022, I use optical switch auto levelers and that is considered dated even LOL
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This thing has no ABL with a bed size this big, no direct drive, a ptfe hotend etc.
There is no reason I can see to buy this over a Sovol SV03 or one of the bigger Neptune 3 Pro derivatives.
Get a PRUSA MK3S PLUS. One word- RELIABLE.
Layer adhesion on silk filaments is pretty poor as you found out!
The bulged corner is the seam - the slicer will do it's best to hide it - in this case on the angle
There's no seam as it's in vase mode. The bulge is on every corner but I believe I know how to fix it in the settings. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Ah of course! somethings with 3DP is a mystery!
So expect to waste lots of filament learning how to use one. Pellet printers should be cheaper to run once they get a bit cheaper.
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