Making Table Saw Inserts / Throat Plates (Dado & Zero Clearance Inserts)
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- čas přidán 25. 01. 2018
- We'll be showing how to make a table saw insert to fit different types of table saw blades. These inserts are also known as table saw throat plates and can be made for both single blades and Dado blades.
These Table Saw Inserts are necessary for the safe operation of the saw. Shop made throat plates often have their relief cut made by the blade they will be used with making a very close tolerance between the blade and the throat plate, hence the name "zero clearance", but they can also have a wider tolerance in which case they would simply be called "inserts" or "throat plates".
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That hot glue technique for leveling the plate is genius. So approachable and yet modifiable, whether you’re a hobbyist or professional. I’ve learned so much from you.
Never thought about using hot glue to level these inserts, great idea.
I'm glad you liked it Joe. Thanks for watching!
You can just use wood screws, just drill a hole and adjust height of each one in the "corners". Its simple and fast, works as good as glue.
The only issue with this method is that the insert ends up sitting a little bit below the table top (by the thickness of the painter's tape, once you remove it from the bottom of the insert). You could eliminate that error by putting a strip of the same tape on the table top on each side of the throat, and rest the two straight edges on the tape. This should make the height even more precise. Maybe 'too' precise?
My saw has threaded inserts on each corner. Adjust with allen wrench.
Hot glue - what a brilliant idea! I can’t count how many brilliant ideas you’ve taught me.
Much easier using a flush trim router bit. Probably takes under five minutes. Another thing to consider is that most plates also require a small pin in the front of the plate so that the blade can't lift the plate. Nail or a small screw works well for this.
Colin, thank you for your great advice. Making a zero clearance insert was a big improvement to my cheap table saw.
Hey Colin - thanks for taking the time to produce this great video tutorial on how to make a custom table insert - the hot glue is a easy way to compensate for the height of the new insert,
Hot melt glue is a great idea. I will definitely try this. I've always struggled to get it flush with the top. Thank you for the great tip
THIS WAS EXTREMELY HELPFUL
Great video. Here is one trick I use instead of the glue. Lay original insert on top of the one You’ve just made and adjust the four little set -screws that is used for leveling it to mark locations , then you can pre-drill and use four set-screws to level the new insert. It’ll be almost as the original and has worked quite well for me.😊
Just used this hot glue method to make two inserts for the same saw. Worked beautifully. Thank you!
I just made one but instead of the screw to hold down the plate in the saw, I used a rare earth magnet.. I used a Forstner bit to make a socket just deep enough to where the magnet would be flush with the bottom of my new plate. You must use a rare earth magnet for adequate holding power.
My DeWalt is not able to hold magnets. What other ideas for holding the plate in place?
Always great to learn new things especially when they are to ensure that you stay protected. Thanks so much Colin, as usual I love watch all of your videos and I’ve learned so from them.
I don't drill in a finger hole. Instead, I just press down the back end of the plate (where I've placed the hold down nail) and the front end just pops up.
Love the glue trick!
Thanks Colin!
Nice one Colin! Have made a few of these in the past but never thought about the hot glue for leveling to the surface......Brilliant!!...............Thanks for posting.............
You're welcome Steve!
Learning new stuff here all the time. I like the hot glue level trick. I used the plywood that formed the crate my motorcycle lift table came in to make a bunch of table saw throat plate blanks. Will use the hot glue trick next time I need to use one.
That's exactly what I was looking for, my table saw has a throat plate that's a couple of millimetres lower than the table so I must make my own inserts.
Thanks for the info, I just got a new bandsaw for Christmas from my kids and need to make these, now I know how.
Very useful video. Thanks for sharing.
Simplifying things as much as possible is the way to go. But only a few people know to explain how to do that.
You're definitively one of them and I am happy having discovered your channel about two years ago.
You're welcome Hans! Thanks once again for watching.
Colin, do you think you''re getting through to me when I'm looking forward to each and every one of your videos? I appreciate your simple profound wisdom!
Thanks! And I appreciate you watching and the great comments!
This is great. I need to make one today and you have detailed plans here. Thank you!
Thanks Colin, I have a Craftsman saw with different set up ..but your ideas are going to be useful..Thanks
I love the hot glue trick. Quick and easy and gets rid of the wobble. That trick must be useful to make other things level.
Thank you for sharing you wealth of woodworking knowledge. I know you saved me from making mistakes.
Like many of your videos, this was terrific information that was extremely useful. Thanks, Colin!
Several new tricks there. The Hot-Glue for leveling is golden!
I'm glad you like the tip, Jeremy!
You are so right, Jeremy. If I thought and pondered for a thousand years, I wouldn't think of that.
Your videos are super clear and to the point. Awesome work man.
Just what I needed today, thank you, to the point with tips, love your videos.
Very useful Collin. Thanks.
Awesome tips, thanks for sharing
Anthony Audain I
Reallly. Highly professional..
Manuvers....great work
Thank You!
Thank you for sharing. Sometimes things are so simple. Thank you for the tip on hot glue what a great idea.
You're welcome Eddie! Thanks for watching.
Wonderful video, as always.
Great video Colin! Thank you.
You're Welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great video, as usual, Colin! I really need to make one of these.
Thanks again. I was trying to use tiny wood shims but hot glue is so much easier lol. IDK how many tips I've used of yours, but I believe I'll be a subscriber for life!
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful.
Very good idea with the glue. Thanks!👍
Hi Collin, Nice job, explaining how to make throat plates (I call them inserts).
Good to see your site.
Charlie Berg
Thanks Colin. Again a very good video. I have to say it would be useful if we could see the whole process with cutting of the blade guard. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching Axel
+1 on this. I would think using the forstner bit would make an unnecessarily large groove for the riving knife/splitter/blade guard. How do we make the narrowest opening possible?
Hey Colin. Loves the videos with the tons of great info you are providing to give us non-professional types the benefit of your experience with less of the usual mishaps when I just "wing it".
I like the idea of a solid, non split master Lexan template for the inserts, as my original (Delta type) insert is cast metal, with the split at the rear, as does yours. I am (shortly) going to make a stack of insert blanks to have on hand for various applications, but I want to try the router template method to save some time.
One routing template method I have used before, discovered quite by accident, was the use of the heavy duty 3M double stick tape, which is approx 1/16+ thick, one inch wide and comes in a 10 foot roll. I was looking for my roll of the regular double sided stuff (thin variety) in my shop, without success. I found a partial roll of the thick stuff and used it to attach the template to the new work piece. Using the traditional pattern bit with a bearing worked well with careful adjustment, as the double stick tape is just thick enough for the clearance needed to avoid nicking the template. The downside of that 3M tape is the cost (approx. $6/ roll). I have found that you can cut the stuff in half lengthwise and still works well, as it is very sticky stuff. ATB
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Simple, easy and effective. Nice on
Thank you!
Well done! The hot glue level . Genius!
Thank you!
thanks colin
I made a plywood template using my original as a template. In order to avoid the flexible end I stopped half way through and swapped the ends. I was using a router table with a 1/2 inch flush cut bit with the bearing on the end. My saw is a Dewalt 745. I used your hot glue method of leveling.
You are good teacher!
Thank You!
This is great. Going to try and make some this weekend.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
I made four. Thanks again.
I really liked the hot glue on the plate what a great idea Well worth the price of admission... Thanks Collin
Great tips from England
Thank you for watching!
Awesome 👍
Excellent
Thank you sir great video
Good idea that, the hot glue to level up !
Cheers, Bram.
I'm glad you liked it. Thank for watching!
Thanks Collin!
You're Welcome, Eugen!
Genius idea with the hot glue!
Neat trick, leveling with hot glue. Thanks
Another great video Colin, thank you so much for all your fantastic tips! Love the trick with the hot glue!
Thanks. Jim
You're Welcome!
excellent
You Are The Man.
Wow....super video. Loved the hot glue trick.
Your glue idea is really slick.. Some genius Red Green show level stuff, except it works!! I use the ridgid hybrid saw so unfortunately my plates are very thin and I can't use your method but it sure was fun to watch!
Keep your stick on the ice.
-Red Green
Rob, find a solution yet? My Ridgid throat plate is also very thin.
That hot glue trick is a great idea. Do you recommend coating the throat plate with polyurethane or wax to help wood glide over the insert? Seems like it would help as you run wood through the blade.
Hey Collin I have an old Black and Decker table saw with a square insert and 3 offsets along the edges. Any ideas on how I can build an insert for this saw?
great video. for a dado insert, do you put a full stack in and slowly raise it up to cut the blade hole? or something different like cut one blade and then jig saw out the hole?
If your zero clearance insert has seen better days, tape off the top of the insert and pour epoxy onto the underside, filling the slot. Recut the slot and it's as good as new.
I've made a few out of 1/2 BB but I found they warped after a short amount of time.
Hi Colin, I’m new to woodworking. I’ve been watching your videos and I appreciate your tips on how to do certain things with the jigs. I have a question about using a dado blade. I have a Craftsman table saw that I bought in 2019. I want to make finger joints/ box joints. My saw has a writhing knife that can’t be removed. I want to make a zero clearance insert. My question is, will the writhing knife be in the way of dado blades when I make the cut ? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Good video.
Dumb question but do you have a video on making the plastic template?
You forgot to mention to use a smaller diameter saw blade such as a 7”-8”-9” to make the initial cut. A dado blade will work to. I rout a recess for my inserts. I usually make a bunch at once out of 1/2 mdf. Like you, I make a template for a tighter fit. I also tap and thread leveling scews right in the saw that only have to be adjusted once.cheers.
Now i know how to use hot glue, what a great idea, thank you for the tip....
Love the hot glue gun trick. Thanks Colin!
Use packing tape, its thinner and allows the insert to be closer to the plane of the table saw. There will be less of a lip on the outboard end so the work is less likely to snag on it.
so to accommodate the angle when the blade is tilted would you slowly tilt the blade while it is totally up and running or would you lower the blade tilt the blade totally over and re plunge it thru the plywood ?
great video. I s that a craftsman glue gun. If it is i have one just like it. got to be 50 years old. All american made
do you have experience with the chip formation above?
will that be less with the zero split insert?
If I make a throat plate for a dado set, do I just raise the blade up through the wood the same way as in a single blade? Also, do you then make a dado plate for each thickness or just make it to the thickest dado setting? Thanks
I need a zero clearance insert, so where do I look first ? Thanks Colin and the hot glue tip is a good idea
Many thanks, Bram
You just watched a video about how to make one
My original throat plate is made of metal and is less than 1/8" thick. What material should I use to make a zero clearance throat plate? Is it OK to use 1/2" plywood and thin the underside edge to fit the opening?
I am going to buy my first table saw, how do you make an insert for the inclined blade?
Well, I don't understand - earlier in the video you couldn't put the blank insert in because the blade couldn't be cranked down enough. Then you could to cut the kerf. Smaller diameter blade?
Can you make an insert with perspex?
Any thoughts on making a "clip" for the insert? I have a craftsman table saw 113 series and on one end it clips under the lip. haven't figured out how to tackel that issue.
I have the same issue.
James McGuire router! Leave just enough material where the tabs are then use a router to shave them down to the correct thickness.
sorry for the stupid question, what is the purpose of the insert and can you still make angle cuts with it inserted?
For a dado insert would you do the same thing, raising the dado blades up into the plate?
Ronald Zilli sane question, I wonder if it’s too think and will make the insert break?
Yes
I think I would leave the tape over the hot glue so that, should the glue soften, it won't stick the insert to the saw.
What does the screw do? Where is it screwing into?
Need one for 45 degree angle to make bevel cuts.
I've noticed that your blade is red which looks like a diablo blade, please advice me for some best table saw blade (of coarse considering the price and quality) to use for a new DIYer like me, thank you
Say one has a contractor's saw, the metal plate is ~1/8" thick, and that's all you have to support it. When plywood is thin enough to fit, the throat plate flexes. Any ideas of how to overcome this? I'd thought about casting a plate out of aluminum, but that's a lot of work.
RealRuler2112 Use thicker material and mortise out the areas that will contact the plate supports to fit. You can use a drill bit, router, or chisels to get just the areas that contact the saw to the right thickness.
Get a piece of aluminum flat stock
Also, look for Izzy Swans video about making a zero clearance insert out of PVC pipe. His saw also has a very thin lip on it. czcams.com/video/KeSJQQYu478/video.html
Well, I tried the hot glue method twice but it didn't work for me. Even though I used a square and a level to make sure the throat plate was flush as it dried, when I removed it and then put it back in, it was still just slightly too high at the back end. If I had to figure out why, I think it's because I just needed such a small amount of lift for it to be flush, I couldn't get a blob of glue small enough and that stuff dries so quickly that I think it was already too firm in the amount of time it took me to put four blobs down, put the glue gun in its holder, and put the throat plate in. The blobs were already starting to firm up and I couldn't press the throat plate down flat enough. That's my guess.
Also there are probably different types of glue sticks you can get. I noticed your melted blob was brownish but mine was clear. I think mine was for crafts and the glue didn't dry that hard. It was soft enough that I could pick it off and even the dried circle was kind of flexible. I had no trouble ripping it in half. So...set screws for me I guess.
Safety is important! A big fringe benefit is greatly reduced tearout on many materials...
Agreed. Thanks for watching Dave!
What species of plywood do you use?
Like many of the other comments, love the hot glue tip! Any chance for one of your 5-minute hacks videos on using hot glue? I don't own a hot glue gun. I think I need to get one and learn more about using them because I'm sure I'm missing out on some handy uses like in this video. Thanks again!!
I'll add the glue gun tips idea to the list of videos to make for the future. A glue gun is worth having in your toolset. Thanks for watching!
drill a couple of holes in the pattern and screw it to the roughed insert, then use the router to cut the extra wood away.....
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
if you never use the router what's the need for the plastic template? Why not just trace your factory insert?
Like
Thanks
Hey Colin !
For a dado insert, do you just run the dado stack up through?
How many dado inserts did you make for your stack? How many blades are in your stack?
I have the same question. I'm new to this and need to make a dado plate.
@@davidrocha9579 Hey David, if I don't find out before, my plan is to try about 3 inserts first (in hyper-safety mode), and if all goes well, move on up to 8 inserts.
What do you think?
My blade doesn't retract below the bottom surface of the throat plate. What's the best way to elevate the plate to get the blade started?
Put an 8" blade on your saw to make the cut
I don't have hot glue, but I wonder if a silicone caulk would be basically the same?
(Of course hot glue dries almost instantly, so that's a big advantage there.)
As it turns out, I just made a zero clearance and a 1/2 inch dado insert, and they were both perfectly level so I didn't even need to worry about the hot glue!