Camper Van Electrical Install | Start to Finish - Renogy Off-Grid System
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- In this video, you will learn How to Wire your DIY Camper Van to be Off-Grid using a mostly Renogy Setup. Diagram and explanation included!! As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or reach out to us on our website at zakandfal.com
Diagram:
Main Components:
⁃Victron Lynx Distributor - amzn.to/3j00Sqs + ⁃Copper Bar - amzn.to/3UTRFNU
⁃Arterra Distribution Panel - amzn.to/3Pkjyxs
⁃Renogy 60A DC to DC charger - amzn.to/3PpDSO4
⁃3 100AH Renogy lithium Batteries - amzn.to/3HzOAPV
⁃300Amp Blue Sea Systems Terminal Fuse - amzn.to/3iZjjLT
⁃400W Renogy Premium Solar Kit - amzn.to/3FLN2AV
⁃Renogy 3000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
⁃Victron BMV 712 Battery Monitor - amzn.to/3j02fW8
⁃10x1 NOCO GENPRO Shore Power- amzn.to/3W9gyGi
Wiring:
⁃100 feet 12/3 marine wire - amzn.to/3Yhks1K
⁃200 feet 14/2 marine wire - amzn.to/3hlEkA5
⁃4 AWG marine wire (30 ft red, 30 ft black)- amzn.to/3WapqLY
⁃4AWG copper lugs - amzn.to/3ULVp3W
⁃16 AWG wire - amzn.to/3FntfXk
⁃4/0 Marine Wire (10ft red, 10ft black) - amzn.to/3Htmu95
⁃4/0 Wire Lugs - amzn.to/3iM8f4L
⁃6 AWG Marine Wire (5 ft red, 5 ft black) - amzn.to/3uKH11b
⁃6 AWG copper lugs - amzn.to/3FoHEm1
⁃60 Amp Mega fuse - amzn.to/3iZukwK
⁃100 amp MEGA fuse - amzn.to/3WeKzV6
⁃100A ANL fuse - amzn.to/3iWR8xs
⁃Renogy fuse holder - amzn.to/3hhKRMn
⁃300 amp MEGA fuse- amzn.to/3FPeDBz
⁃Hammer Crimper - amzn.to/3hlMVD0
⁃Hammer - amzn.to/3Fnk8G3
Misc.
⁃ATM automotive fuse pack - amzn.to/3BubLr7
⁃ATC automotive fuse pack- amzn.to/3uMufzq
⁃Heat Shrink - amzn.to/3uIYXZY
⁃Terminal fuse holder - amzn.to/3Po9kvL
⁃AC plug for NOCO - amzn.to/3HrkUVb
⁃Master Kill Switch - amzn.to/3VQLqf9
⁃Metal Jigsaw Blade- amzn.to/3FMQThj
⁃Table vice -amzn.to/3HvYv92
⁃Socket Wrench set- amzn.to/3hgdV6V
⁃switch - amzn.to/3YhqP56
⁃Switch - amzn.to/3FgH2Pa
⁃Spade connectors - amzn.to/3YcYPQh
⁃Extension Cord Socket for Inverter- amzn.to/3uI5Fj0
⁃Outlets- amzn.to/3YlbZL5
⁃Junction boxes- amzn.to/3iXzWb3
⁃Split loom conduit - amzn.to/3Wbsibh
⁃Small Wire cutters - amzn.to/3uLhEwj
⁃Big Cable Cutters- amzn.to/3VRNIun
⁃Plastic Hanger Strap- amzn.to/3VS2Dot
Tools:
⁃Heat Gun - amzn.to/3W8wx89
⁃Drill - amzn.to/3FOr6FE
⁃Drill Bits- amzn.to/3PlvcrE
⁃Drive Bits- amzn.to/3WcthrP
⁃Jigsaw- amzn.to/3HwcsnJ
Camera Equipment:
⁃Tripod: amzn.to/3Bf9hxi
⁃Phone Tripod Mount: amzn.to/3oqjdMT
⁃Mic: amzn.to/3vcJy4Q
The links above are affiliate links, so we get a small kickback for anything you buy with our link at no additional cost to you. It’s a small way to support the channel if you plan to purchase these items anyways :)
All the best & happy exploring!
⁃Zak & Fal
DISCLAIMER: WE ARE NOT CERTIFIED ELECTRICIANS, AND THIS VIDEO IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT/INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. PLEASE CONSULT A CERTIFIED ELECTRICIAN BEFORE HANDLING HIGH VOLTAGE MATERIALS.
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Good video. It’s a good sized electrical system. Lots of connections.
I’m currently working on my own design and it’s very similar.
I’m sure you followed manufacturer recommendations on wire and fuse sizing. It’s interesting though that the dcdc converter has 4awg wire with a 80a fuse but your dc distribution panel uses 6awg wire and a 100a fuse. I expected the wiring to be reverse or both being 4awg, which is what I’ll be doing in my system.
Took me a moment to realize your distribution panel serves both ac and dc, so the panel has two separate inputs.
Here are the things that are slightly different in my system.
Dcdc converter: mine is a newer model that also handles up to 600 watt of solar input. This in turn allows for trickle charging of the starter battery. But the setup is otherwise the same.
MPPT: also a larger model, 60amp. Allows up to 800 watt solar on a 12v system. Also use a switch, but mine is a special PV switch for 2 strings with Arc protect.
Inverter: only a 2000 watt inverter. I felt that for a larger inverter I’d put too much strain on the batteries, which only have a 300a output in your configuration. With up to 250a load coming from 3000 watt inverter and 100amp from dc, you have the potential to push the limit. My 2000 watt inverter is only rated at 167amp, so I’m staying below battery ability.
Also, I don’t have a wired AC panel. I’m using a single outlet from the inverter to connect a surge protector power strip. While this might sound like I can use too much power, I also have a Kill-a-watt plugged in and can monitor all appliance draw from the inverter. Stay below 1800 watt, and I’m golden. However, the only items I will need the inverter for are a laptop (150 watt), rice cooker (200 watt), sous vide stick (750 watt), kettle (1500 watt), induction cooktop (1800 watt). I’ll never use them all at the same time.
Dc panel: I use a BlueSea dc panel with two circuits. It’s supposed to be one permanent and one switched. But just in case, I’ll be putting a switch into both. It’s good for 12 appliances, that should be plenty. And my dc fridge will bypass the panel altogether. However, I will have it all connected to a Victron low voltage disconnect. It’s rated at 100amp and protects me from running the batteries down by accident. The inverter is only turned in when needed but dc is always on.
Busbar: not using a Lynx, just two old fashioned BlueSea 600amp bus bars. Of course my bus bars will look more messy because I need to add fuses to it. That aside, connections look the same as your system.
Battery: I’ll be switching from 3x 100amp to 2x 200amp batteries. This increases overall capacity, increases output from 300 to 400amp and reduced battery cables by one set. And I could still add 2 more batteries without makes a total mess of my system. And now I could comfortably go with a 3000 or even 4000 watt inverter (not going to).
So our systems are very similar. Most components are the same. I’m using a mix of renogy and Victron, BlueSea, Ancor and Windynation and batteries from Ampere Time.
Good luck with your system and all the best for VanLife.
P.S. gotta steal that battery terminal fuse. Totally missed that in my planning.
P.S.2. Be aware that the outlet extension you selected for your inverter is only rated at 12amp or 1440 watt. Thats total for all outlets together. That’s less than a standard home outlet which should be rated at 15/20amp. Should be fine for most appliances though.
P.S.3. If it was not for the dcdc converter, I would have set my system up as 24v. That would reduce cable and fuse sizes. But it would add require a dc converter bring that 24v down to 12v so all my 12 volt appliances can run on it.
Yes, does seem like we have similar systems! Regarding the DC to DC vs Dist. Panel Wiring and fuses, we followed manufacturer for both, but Renogy has changed quite a bit even in the time that we've had it (just about a year)... So far, things have worked ok though.
Glad you're going with a slightly larger system. I wish we had 400 AH battery life.
Very nice system and good video.
thank you for the diagram
You are welcome! Hope it helps :)
Nice job !
Thank you Robert!!
The wires you have running from your DC to DC charger to the Lynx Distributor are much smaller than the 4/0 wires from the inverter to the Lynx Distributor. Tthe Renogy diagram shows 4 AWG wire size, so you got it right, just your audio track states 4/0 wire.
Thank you for the clarification here. We try our best to be as detailed as possible, but sometimes we make mistakes editing :)
i don't have a lynx thingy so where do i put my on/off kill switch? please?
Great video! How did you handle grounding? Did you run a grounding cable from the Lynx to the chassis? Where did you ground the inverter to?
I realize this is a bit late, and may no longer be needed for you but I hope this reply helps someone else. The Inverter was grounded to the chasis. You should see it in our diagram.
Both Positive and Negative wires coming from the solar panels should have a dual isolator switch, not just the Positive.
Interesting! We didn’t know that. Out of curiosity, can you explain why? You’d be helping us as well as anyone else who comes along too! Thanks so much! :)
Sure. In America, and I'm sure many other countries around the world, you need to disconnect both +ve and -ve wires. National Electric Code 2020 Article 690.13 states this... Also, the isolator switch you are using may not be rated high enough for the voltage.
I would toss the NOCO.. I had two melt the wires to the point it melted the connectors. So big Fire Hazard.... I bought a Renogy Inverter\Charger\Transfer Switch..That is rated for 75 amps on Shore Power.. Problem solved...
Good to know, thank you!
Is there a list of what you got for the distribution panel? What kind fo Breakers did you use and why?
Hi! So, we are definitely not electricians, and honestly, I don't really remember why we chose what we did but if you can message us on @zakandfal on instagram, I can send you the two photos of what we have. They have worked for us!
Also, if you are not qualified electricians or auto electricians, you should be warning viewers of this and that your videos are for information only. And that they should seek professional advice... Inverters and solar panels can be deadly.
Completely agree - we do mention this in the video but another reminder won't hurt. Pinning your comment.