Awesome explanation of feeds and circuits. You made it easy to understand and kept the drawings simple yet realistic for residential wiring. Thank you.
Thank you so much for all this information. This is the first video I came across that explained so much for me as I am trying to draw out my own plans on my own and am scouring the internet for direction.
Really good video, simple, well presented. I might add that with all the homeruns for circuits say in the kitchen and surrounds, viewers might consider a subpanel to facilitate the latter. Plus, you have circuits for washer/dryer, furnace (even if gas), etc., to think about in a general plan. Wired a home I built 20 years ago with a guy mentoring me. Getting into a new project, but a remodel of an entire home, not new construction. This video is a good refresher.
Recessed leds these days are probably about a half an amp. Cover multiple rooms with 15 amp light circuites and 20 for recepticals. Even if you did have all 15 amp circuites. Its best to seperate light and plug circuites incase either one ever goes out you still have one live Circuit in the room. So you still have either lights or recepticals likely to have a lamp pluged in.
Excellent video. Way better than these other videos with the fancy. Introduction and professionalism-ish looking type of acting. This is a no bullshit, linear delivered information. This video was 100% made by a man who knows what he’s doing. I’m not trying to brag on you. It’s just I get so frustrated with having to listen to people talk about their goal. Crap before you can actually get what you need to know“problem with the transmission is there’s this button and before I get to the button I’m gonna tell you about how we got the car how long we’ve had the car when cI get painted again when my sister borrowed that one time… “Yeah yeah yeah fine
Nice video. Thanks. I always run separate lighting and electrical circuits, and I use 14-2 wire. 12-2 wire runs costs too high when you're wiring several thousand square feet. I also use 14-3 to make my home run for the dishwasher and the disposal. I'm a new subscriber to your channel.
Why 1473 for dw and disposal? Also, what country are you in? Here we aren't able to use 14 only, because select circuits are required to be 20 amp ( US)
@@joncrosby8988 hi John. Sorry I'm only just realizing that you asked this question. So I live in North Carolina and all receptacles in kitchens must be on at least 2 seperate 20 amp GFCI protected circuits, EXCEPT, the dishwasher and the disposal which may be on 15 amp circuits. So I pull one cable of 14/3 wire from the panel. I install a 15 amp breaker on the black and the same on the red wire. Then in the kitchen I seperate the two hot wires and put them on switches, one switch for the disposal and one for the dishwasher.
Gotcha. I never considered a switch on dw but that's what allows for the single cable. I guess proximity to box , access and other factors determine if that's more practical...I'm nit an electrician but I guess you usually have 3wire left over from 3ways.
@@keatonbyron3328 I misunderstood ; I read your comment to mean you don't use 12/2 at all, but obv you meant that you only use it on the 20s, and use 14ga on lighting and other 15 amp curcuuts
@@keatonbyron3328 I am not an electrician, I don’t understand how those two circuits can use a common neutral. What allows you to use 14/3 in that case? If you can use 14/3 in that case, why couldn’t you use 14/3 for other general purpose outlets.
Kool man, i started as a helper electrician (comercial) in Ag/2017 and i were a month in residential line, and i liked it both, i am still learning, and i liked ur video, Thank u so much for sharing ur skills
Nicely done. I like to use 12 ga for everything you mentioned except 14 ga for switch loops. Also like to separate outlets from lights...thinking that if a receptacle trips the breaker, you don't have to fumble in the dark because the lights were on the same breaker. One 3-wire cable to fan/light and then I use a double switch on the wall.
Seems the 80% rule is out on the bedroom example.... on a 20a breaker the continuous load shouldn't be more than 16a..... which at 1.5a per device would be 11..... I also do not mix lighting and receptacles for the same reason.... I do know that at one time the likelyhood of all devices being used is low, but the calculations should be to cover that
Are you saying to have homerun wire to switch them seperat homerun wire for outlets? I ask because I'm about to start running wire to a bedroom and I'm not an election
14 ga for switch loops? That means your whole circuit is rated for 15 amps. Therefore, using 12 ga for the rest is a waist of money. Also, you can only use a 15 amp breaker.
Great video in explaining the rules as the apply to dedicated lines. Does a tankless water heater require a dedicated line? Are these codes applicable to the state of California?
HOLY MOTHER OF BABY JESUS! Was that so hard? Was it? THANK YOU SIR. . . I'VE BEEN trying to find this exact video for weeks. You sir desires a steak dinner some time off for hunting or what ever you do, I'm a disabled VET that has half a shell of a house from what i can tell (sub-termites) so in process of fixing this. I found everything was wrong. Fyi Knob and tube wiring
Also cast iron going into ground, leveling house, redid water lines, every floor in house has to get done 7 rooms tiny hallway that's 7 counting every room kitch, bath, bed etc. . . An if you know anything about VA THEY DON'T PAY US enough. 😥😾😢😂 One day at a time and one construction DUMPSTER dive 4 free materials at a time.
Thank you for doing the video! Easy to understand. I'm a newbie, but wouldn't 2 loads in the ceiling fan (light and motor) put you over your 20 amp limit? Thanks again.
What happens at the first receptacle and the run for the recessed lights? Is that a junction box or are you running off the first receptacle from the home run? Thanks!
NEC requirements for general lighting and receptacle load is 3 va a sq. ft. 2000 sq. ft. house x 3 VA= 6000 VA /120 Volts =50 Amps/ 20 amp cir= 2.5. all general use lighting and receptacles can be ran off of 3 20 amp circuits.
Great video, presentation and content. When speaking of requirements like "outlet must be within 6' of the door", would you share the overall governing source containing the requirements e.g. International Building Code or National Electrical Code in your references. Thank you for a great video. Regards.
Hi! In EU we have to multiply a constant 0,7 or 0,5 if the Mcb total up to 5 if more we just multiple by 0,7 to make sure that it's impossible to plug all sockets in simultaneously, which is preventing you for overloading and heating of cables
hello, i worked in remodeling construction years ago, and now i'm looking to brush up on things so i can rewire my new house (it's actually quite old)...
If the breaker trips you have a bigger problem than the lights going out. When you do separate them you're more likely overload an outlet circuit, and your panel schedules are trash. I've wired over 300 custom homes, and I've never had a customer complaint or failed an inspection due to the outlets and lighting sharing a circuit.
@@S33Electrical why are you more likely to overload an outlet circuit? Is the assumption that the outlet circuit would be shared between rooms? And similar with the lighting circuit?
@@VeloSol The lighting circuit is a stable load, meaning unless you change the wattage of your bulbs it will always draw the same amount of current. The outlets on the other hand the current draw changes depending on what you have plugged in the outlet, portable heater, vacuum cleaner ect...
@@AmericanOne9621 makes sense but I read what S33 Electrical had said as: separating outlet/receptacle and lighting circuits to separate breakers makes it more likely that you'll blow the outlet breaker. That's what wasn't adding up to me, a stable lighting load on a breaker should basically never trip unless you drastically change luminaire wattage. If you have other outlets (receptacles) on the circuit with the lighting load then there is less current available for the receptacles because of the base lighting load so why not split the receptacles off to their own breaker? In other words I don't see how separating lighting to one breaker and receptacles to another makes it more likely for the outlet breaker to trip than if the same space shared lighting and receptacles on a single breaker. That's how I understood the original reply and I figure I must be missing something.
Hello my name is Jim, your diagram is very helpful to me. My home is severely damaged by wind. I lost the roof and after that the house was flooded with the rain. Right now the house is gutted and I’m ready to start the rebuild process. I had all my plumbing redone and brought up to code. Now I’m ready to start the Ruffin electrical work. I’m having a very difficult time finding Electrician. So I’m gonna try to do it myself. I’m aware of the 612 rule. I’m gonna try to draw the diagrams for the bedroom. And the kitchen. What kind of wire do I need for the outlets. And the lights.
Code differs place to place. Check your city/state’s website to find electrical code. Also, GFI or GFCI Outlets would be ideal for wet locations like bathrooms and laundry rooms. Again check your city and state code before proceeding.
you have to stay in the safe zone of your ampacity no? which is ~75-80% of your total amps depends who you ask. 18 amps is 90% of 20 so would you have to split the circuit into 2 circuits?
@@WESTCOAST805SPARKYI don’t believe that’s a code violation. The receptacle is just rated for higher amps. The 15 amp breaker protects the conductors from damage.
Let me see if I have this correct, in the first room example: At A1, the home run will have: 4 Line pigtails (3 to each switch and 1 to outlet), 1 Neutral pigtail (to outlet) and 3 load pigtails (2 lights and 1 fan) and all grounds tied together?
Yea pretty much...cutting in this switch I’d go grounds 1st ( need 3) neu. 2nd ( all whites.) 3rd make my power leads with all my power in/outs (black wires) 4th , Before I began ..I took all my legs and put a little loop at the end to identify them later).
Thanks for the video, it was a really neat way of showing information. I do have a question, a single 20 amp circuit specifically and only for a garbage disposal seems like massive overkill to me, could you explain why I am mistaken?
it's a big-ass electric motor that pulls even more juice when you pour solids down into it and it has to work harder. you also wouldn't want that competing with a fridge when the compressor kicks on.
I have a room that has 1 switch. This switch controls one outlet (for lamps) on the wall. Could you diagram this? Im trying to change to 2 switches (1 ceiling fan light + 1 ceiling fan motor), and detach wall outlet from switch. Understanding current diagram would help me.
These R inside the circles are the ceiling lights control by just a single switch? :/ I am Civil Engineer but now learning electrical designing. It is very interesting to watch..!!
Hey man I’ve been following your channel for awhile and I’ve decided that I want to become an electrician. Can you do a video with tips or what I should do to have the best chance for a apprentice or helper job, since I have no electrical experience. I do have 4 years construction experience
technically you can't run all those on a 20 amp breaker considering that you need a .80 percent deduction for safety measures which would bring it down to 16 amps.
I’m new to electricity and still learning, but wouldn’t wiring the outlets and lights in series divide the voltage throughout? Why is this not a problem?
No issue. Connecting in series would allow for the same current to flow through all receptacles, etc...you will get a small voltage drop across each of the resistances
I have an older house built in 60's. I have 3 20amp circuits and 2 240amp circuits. I don't have space on the panel to run additional circuits. Is there a method to combine appliances on fewer circuits?
In Parker, Texas, building code specifies compliance with NEC 1999 and in our home built in 2012, every one of our bedrooms are on 20amp circuits and include all outlets and the lights. Same for game room, office, dining room. Your municipality might be different.
Lee Campbell I don’t disagree, but I’m on my third house in TX and they are all wired the same, as were both of my brother-in-law’s. I’m sure they do it this way simply because it’s cheaper.
@@tporter23 SAD , too bad they didn't consider this option B 4 wiring Bathroom . I'm poor myself , but you won't see me do that . I'll turn down the work first .
@@leecampbell5232 Actually now that I think about it: the main line from the breaker first comes into each bedroom at the lightswitch box. So the lights are always on even if we trip a GFCI in a bathroom. But in our other bedrooms, yes, if the circuit breaker for the room's circuit pops, yes, you're in the dark. Not so in the kitchen where it is code to have lights on a separate circuit from the outlets.
Plug Spacing = Distance between receptacles Outlet = Receptacle There is no measure of amps per device in residential dwellings in the NEC. That's just how I do it.
S33 Electrical Just want you to be very careful with terms. Especially since you call yourself S33 Electrical. It is receptacle spacing. Receptacles are part of a receptacle outlet but, not part of a light outlet. Correct on amps per receptacle. Commercial not dwelling. Dwelling is minimum circuits required according to square footage. I would never do minimum. If you ever need something explained or NEC explained, I would help you. Respectfully, Kevin. PS, feel free to delete my comments if you so desire.
80 % applies IF you are derating conductors . That is only necessary if you are operating a circuit continually for 3 hours or longer , or you are dealing with a circuit feeding a motor load that is cycled more than five times per hour . Heating circuits should be calculated for derating as needed .
greg berban The 80% you are talking about is the breaker raising for continuous loads. Check your NEC. There is a section that tells you exactly how many receptacles can be installed on different branch circuits. The 1.5 amperes is considered non-continuous, and can be connected up to the 15 or 20 ampere ratings. I'm not saying you should, just that you can.
you"ve put 12 devices on one 20 amp breaker with #12 wire. you cant do that. the 1.5 amps per is correct. it comes up to 18. you have to keep it within 80% due to code. which is 10 devices per 20 amp breaker. figure your devices at no more than 10 per 20 amp breaker to stay within code. cant go past 16 amps on a 20 amp breaker with branch circuitry.
This is totally false. The national electric code does not dictate how many receptacles are on a single circuit and the only place it talks about 80% is when it comes to continuous loads
Nice, straightforward explanation. No hype. No noisy background music. No tangents.
Awesome explanation of feeds and circuits. You made it easy to understand and kept the drawings simple yet realistic for residential wiring. Thank you.
Thank you so much for all this information. This is the first video I came across that explained so much for me as I am trying to draw out my own plans on my own and am scouring the internet for direction.
Really good video, simple, well presented. I might add that with all the homeruns for circuits say in the kitchen and surrounds, viewers might consider a subpanel to facilitate the latter. Plus, you have circuits for washer/dryer, furnace (even if gas), etc., to think about in a general plan.
Wired a home I built 20 years ago with a guy mentoring me. Getting into a new project, but a remodel of an entire home, not new construction. This video is a good refresher.
great video - I FINALLY have a simple to understand resource to wire my project - THANK YOU
Recessed leds these days are probably about a half an amp. Cover multiple rooms with 15 amp light circuites and 20 for recepticals. Even if you did have all 15 amp circuites. Its best to seperate light and plug circuites incase either one ever goes out you still have one live Circuit in the room. So you still have either lights or recepticals likely to have a lamp pluged in.
Excellent video. Way better than these other videos with the fancy. Introduction and professionalism-ish looking type of acting. This is a no bullshit, linear delivered information. This video was 100% made by a man who knows what he’s doing. I’m not trying to brag on you. It’s just I get so frustrated with having to listen to people talk about their goal. Crap before you can actually get what you need to know“problem with the transmission is there’s this button and before I get to the button I’m gonna tell you about how we got the car how long we’ve had the car when cI get painted again when my sister borrowed that one time… “Yeah yeah yeah fine
Excellent Video for apprentices to watch and learn more about how blue prints work in a sense.
THANK YOU!!!! Can you please do more videos like this one? From beginner to advanced wiring diagram planning
Very good examples, thanks!
Easy to understand and well presented
i would love to follow your posts it is very clear and details
Nice video. Thanks. I always run separate lighting and electrical circuits, and I use 14-2 wire. 12-2 wire runs costs too high when you're wiring several thousand square feet. I also use 14-3 to make my home run for the dishwasher and the disposal. I'm a new subscriber to your channel.
Why 1473 for dw and disposal? Also, what country are you in? Here we aren't able to use 14 only, because select circuits are required to be 20 amp ( US)
@@joncrosby8988 hi John. Sorry I'm only just realizing that you asked this question. So I live in North Carolina and all receptacles in kitchens must be on at least 2 seperate 20 amp GFCI protected circuits, EXCEPT, the dishwasher and the disposal which may be on 15 amp circuits. So I pull one cable of 14/3 wire from the panel. I install a 15 amp breaker on the black and the same on the red wire. Then in the kitchen I seperate the two hot wires and put them on switches, one switch for the disposal and one for the dishwasher.
Gotcha. I never considered a switch on dw but that's what allows for the single cable. I guess proximity to box , access and other factors determine if that's more practical...I'm nit an electrician but I guess you usually have 3wire left over from 3ways.
@@keatonbyron3328 I misunderstood ; I read your comment to mean you don't use 12/2 at all, but obv you meant that you only use it on the 20s, and use 14ga on lighting and other 15 amp curcuuts
@@keatonbyron3328 I am not an electrician, I don’t understand how those two circuits can use a common neutral. What allows you to use 14/3 in that case? If you can use 14/3 in that case, why couldn’t you use 14/3 for other general purpose outlets.
Great video. Presentation was great! 👍🏽
Thank you brother! This exactly what I was looking for! God bless !
Kool man, i started as a helper electrician (comercial) in Ag/2017 and i were a month in residential line, and i liked it both, i am still learning, and i liked ur video, Thank u so much for sharing ur skills
Theres nothin you dont know that u can learn. Except for maybe quantum mechanics.
Nicely done. I like to use 12 ga for everything you mentioned except 14 ga for switch loops. Also like to separate outlets from lights...thinking that if a receptacle trips the breaker, you don't have to fumble in the dark because the lights were on the same breaker. One 3-wire cable to fan/light and then I use a double switch on the wall.
Same thoughts. I’d like to separate my lights and the receps.
If you use 14 anywhere in the circuit you have to use 15 amp breaker
Seems the 80% rule is out on the bedroom example.... on a 20a breaker the continuous load shouldn't be more than 16a..... which at 1.5a per device would be 11..... I also do not mix lighting and receptacles for the same reason.... I do know that at one time the likelyhood of all devices being used is low, but the calculations should be to cover that
Are you saying to have homerun wire to switch them seperat homerun wire for outlets? I ask because I'm about to start running wire to a bedroom and I'm not an election
14 ga for switch loops? That means your whole circuit is rated for 15 amps. Therefore, using 12 ga for the rest is a waist of money. Also, you can only use a 15 amp breaker.
Great video. Question? The space where the door hinges are, if that's 2 ft. to the corner, I think you need an outlet there.
Great video in explaining the rules as the apply to dedicated lines. Does a tankless water heater require a dedicated line? Are these codes applicable to the state of California?
Ugh you should definitely teach!!!!!! Thank you thank you thank you so much.
Thanks for the video! I think you should have the ceiling fan's balance checked though if that's an as built drawing...
The small blue print is very helpful.
Thank you super easy to understand.
HOLY MOTHER OF BABY JESUS!
Was that so hard? Was it?
THANK YOU SIR. . . I'VE BEEN trying to find this exact video for weeks.
You sir desires a steak dinner some time off for hunting or what ever you do, I'm a disabled VET that has half a shell of a house from what i can tell (sub-termites) so in process of fixing this. I found everything was wrong. Fyi Knob and tube wiring
Also cast iron going into ground, leveling house, redid water lines, every floor in house has to get done 7 rooms tiny hallway that's 7 counting every room kitch, bath, bed etc. . .
An if you know anything about VA THEY DON'T PAY US enough. 😥😾😢😂 One day at a time and one construction DUMPSTER dive 4 free materials at a time.
Thank you for doing the video! Easy to understand. I'm a newbie, but wouldn't 2 loads in the ceiling fan (light and motor) put you over your 20 amp limit? Thanks again.
God bless you brother , thank you for helping me out , today
Great job, it helped me immensely.
Awesome video thank you for sharing
What happens at the first receptacle and the run for the recessed lights? Is that a junction box or are you running off the first receptacle from the home run? Thanks!
NEC requirements for general lighting and receptacle load is 3 va a sq. ft. 2000 sq. ft. house x 3 VA= 6000 VA /120 Volts =50 Amps/ 20 amp cir= 2.5. all general use lighting and receptacles can be ran off of 3 20 amp circuits.
Great video, presentation and content. When speaking of requirements like "outlet must be within 6' of the door", would you share the overall governing source containing the requirements e.g. International Building Code or National Electrical Code in your references. Thank you for a great video. Regards.
Hi! In EU we have to multiply a constant 0,7 or 0,5 if the Mcb total up to 5 if more we just multiple by 0,7 to make sure that it's impossible to plug all sockets in simultaneously, which is preventing you for overloading and heating of cables
How do you tie the neutral into the cans if all three conductors are being used for power off the light? How do you ground them?
hello, i worked in remodeling construction years ago, and now i'm looking to brush up on things so i can rewire my new house (it's actually quite old)...
Really like your video it helped a lot.
cOOL how about bathroom laundry room ect. Also can you explain the gfci basics
Don't put lights on the same circuit with outlets. If the breaker gets tripped for an outlet fault, you don't want the lights to go off.
If the breaker trips you have a bigger problem than the lights going out. When you do separate them you're more likely overload an outlet circuit, and your panel schedules are trash. I've wired over 300 custom homes, and I've never had a customer complaint or failed an inspection due to the outlets and lighting sharing a circuit.
You need to get a course before you say that you will understand why one circuit is fine
@@S33Electrical why are you more likely to overload an outlet circuit? Is the assumption that the outlet circuit would be shared between rooms? And similar with the lighting circuit?
@@VeloSol The lighting circuit is a stable load, meaning unless you change the wattage of your bulbs it will always draw the same amount of current. The outlets on the other hand the current draw changes depending on what you have plugged in the outlet, portable heater, vacuum cleaner ect...
@@AmericanOne9621 makes sense but I read what S33 Electrical had said as: separating outlet/receptacle and lighting circuits to separate breakers makes it more likely that you'll blow the outlet breaker. That's what wasn't adding up to me, a stable lighting load on a breaker should basically never trip unless you drastically change luminaire wattage. If you have other outlets (receptacles) on the circuit with the lighting load then there is less current available for the receptacles because of the base lighting load so why not split the receptacles off to their own breaker?
In other words I don't see how separating lighting to one breaker and receptacles to another makes it more likely for the outlet breaker to trip than if the same space shared lighting and receptacles on a single breaker. That's how I understood the original reply and I figure I must be missing something.
Hello my name is Jim, your diagram is very helpful to me. My home is severely damaged by wind. I lost the roof and after that the house was flooded with the rain. Right now the house is gutted and I’m ready to start the rebuild process. I had all my plumbing redone and brought up to code. Now I’m ready to start the Ruffin electrical work. I’m having a very difficult time finding Electrician. So I’m gonna try to do it myself. I’m aware of the 612 rule. I’m gonna try to draw the diagrams for the bedroom. And the kitchen. What kind of wire do I need for the outlets. And the lights.
On 20 amp circuits, go with 12/2
I like the lay out
Hey bro could you show how to wire bathrooms and what they are required by code and also the Landry
Code differs place to place. Check your city/state’s website to find electrical code. Also, GFI or GFCI Outlets would be ideal for wet locations like bathrooms and laundry rooms. Again check your city and state code before proceeding.
Bathrooms are outlets 20amp home runs
You just saved me 6k. Thanks bro.
where did you run for the lights, can lights? a separate circuit? Can the overhead light and range vent be on a shared circuit?
you have to stay in the safe zone of your ampacity no? which is ~75-80% of your total amps depends who you ask. 18 amps is 90% of 20 so would you have to split the circuit into 2 circuits?
i like it simple.. but i think 15 amp can work for everything is 20 amp required by the code?
you are fine as long as you don't install a 20 amp outlet on a circuit with a 15 amp breaker in it.
@@WESTCOAST805SPARKYI don’t believe that’s a code violation. The receptacle is just rated for higher amps. The 15 amp breaker protects the conductors from damage.
Great video, thanks for that
Any chance you draw one that has a walking in closet in that room addition with recess light and fan with half hot. Pretty please
Let me see if I have this correct, in the first room example:
At A1, the home run will have: 4 Line pigtails (3 to each switch and 1 to outlet), 1 Neutral pigtail (to outlet) and 3 load pigtails (2 lights and 1 fan) and all grounds tied together?
Yea pretty much...cutting in this switch I’d go grounds 1st ( need 3) neu. 2nd ( all whites.) 3rd make my power leads with all my power in/outs (black wires) 4th , Before I began ..I took all my legs and put a little loop at the end to identify them later).
Thanks for the video, it was a really neat way of showing information. I do have a question, a single 20 amp circuit specifically and only for a garbage disposal seems like massive overkill to me, could you explain why I am mistaken?
Code
it's a big-ass electric motor that pulls even more juice when you pour solids down into it and it has to work harder. you also wouldn't want that competing with a fridge when the compressor kicks on.
Why are you running 20 amp dedicated circuits to appliances that draw less than 10 amps?
Nice one sir
sfter you wall outlet you have t0 run 12 foot apart there to next outlet.. kinda new to home wiring..
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
hey would you use romex 14 gauge wire for anything in a dwelling unit?
I have a room that has 1 switch. This switch controls one outlet (for lamps) on the wall. Could you diagram this? Im trying to change to 2 switches (1 ceiling fan light + 1 ceiling fan motor), and detach wall outlet from switch. Understanding current diagram would help me.
Great video. One tip, if you make CZcams videos, please interact with your commenters.
These R inside the circles are the ceiling lights control by just a single switch? :/
I am Civil Engineer but now learning electrical designing. It is very interesting to watch..!!
Awsome video . Keep em coming.
Island outlets!
You should put out more videos if possible.
So if you have any tips on other stuff please help! Major thing leveling house. . . ????
do you still add 1.5 for LED recess lightening?
Great video thanks bro💪🏼👏🏼🛠⚡
Great video, what's a homerun?
Hey man I’ve been following your channel for awhile and I’ve decided that I want to become an electrician. Can you do a video with tips or what I should do to have the best chance for a apprentice or helper job, since I have no electrical experience. I do have 4 years construction experience
Look up your local ibew hall and go in and apply.
Can I go get a eletrical license
How can I get that diagram that you just laid out
Thanks a lot Sam. Great video!
technically you can't run all those on a 20 amp breaker considering that you need a .80 percent deduction for safety measures which would bring it down to 16 amps.
Technically you have to run it on a 20, if its more than 15 amps your have to go up to the next breaker size
Could I get one for a bathroom also
Nice work, thanks.
do you tie in the lights also or is that separate?
Good on explain this but all need is maybe 3 outlet and 4 recessed lights tops
What kind of pen is that?
I’m new to electricity and still learning, but wouldn’t wiring the outlets and lights in series divide the voltage throughout? Why is this not a problem?
No issue. Connecting in series would allow for the same current to flow through all receptacles, etc...you will get a small voltage drop across each of the resistances
@@jasonstevenson3631 and how is that voltage drop not a problem?
Very helpful Sam thanks
Why 3 switches in the bed room ? What does the 3rd switch for
One for recessed lightning , one for fan and another for fan light.
I have an older house built in 60's. I have 3 20amp circuits and 2 240amp circuits. I don't have space on the panel to run additional circuits. Is there a method to combine appliances on fewer circuits?
You need a subpanel added
You really should upgrade your panel if you want to add additional circuits.
So do you always wire to switch first then to outlets. I though it was wise to wire switches apart from outlets.
Everybody wires differently. Some electricians do that. Others separate outlets from lightning circuits
you can not install any receptacle behind the door and in bedroom we use AFCI receptacle
GFCI for bathrooms. AFCI is the breaker
Hey so let's say I'm working with a gas oven and all other applicanes listed as well. My question to you is does the power source has to be 120 amp?
120V. is standard residential. Some appliances use more, would be another cicuit of 120V. equaling 240V.
How much can get pay to do rough in
Question:
The wire runs in conduit from the panel to the first outlet.
Does the wire going from A1 to A2 also in conduit, or is it just the wire?
in GA and ma. we use no conduit
Conduit in residential never heard of it. Inless exposed outdoors.
15Amp breakers can go up to 8 outlets unless you know your load is heavy .
Thanks amigo!!
Thank you, sir.
You really inspired me to be a better electrician
Could you do residential codes
It's best to wire the outlets to 20A circuits, but NOT the lights. They should be on 15A circuits separate from the outlets.
In Parker, Texas, building code specifies compliance with NEC 1999 and in our home built in 2012, every one of our bedrooms are on 20amp circuits and include all outlets and the lights. Same for game room, office, dining room. Your municipality might be different.
@@tporter23 Unfortunate . IF you lose the receptacle circuit you are also in the dark . Better to have separate circuits for receptacles and lights .
Lee Campbell I don’t disagree, but I’m on my third house in TX and they are all wired the same, as were both of my brother-in-law’s. I’m sure they do it this way simply because it’s cheaper.
@@tporter23 SAD , too bad they didn't consider this option B 4 wiring Bathroom . I'm poor myself , but you won't see me do that . I'll turn down the work first .
@@leecampbell5232 Actually now that I think about it: the main line from the breaker first comes into each bedroom at the lightswitch box. So the lights are always on even if we trip a GFCI in a bathroom. But in our other bedrooms, yes, if the circuit breaker for the room's circuit pops, yes, you're in the dark. Not so in the kitchen where it is code to have lights on a separate circuit from the outlets.
can you me how to wiring bath and living room with 4 way switch?? thanx
You should only have to pull one wire to the fan not two
WRONG!!!!!
Rath McGrath is right actually. If you run 14/3 or 12/3 you get two ungrounded conductors. You use one for the fan and one for the light kit
@@jamesmichaelgoodwin8727 WRONG !
@@leecampbell5232
James is not wrong. You need a 3 or 4 or 6 wires depending on how it's ran.
Why would you not have a home run wire go straight to the switch then another homerun wire go to the outlets
Some people do 2 lighting circuits
In Russia no socket outlets are allowed underneath sinks, yet there are so many of them.
In Soviet Russia, outlets fork you!
Very helpful! Thx!
Thank you
I thought u needed two home run for a room. 1one for outlets and another for lighting
its best to seperate them, but no code saying you have to.
Supar bro😎
"Plug Spacing"? "Outlet" ? Please define these terms! Also, where do you get 1-1/2 amps per device for dwelling units?
Plug Spacing = Distance between receptacles
Outlet = Receptacle
There is no measure of amps per device in residential dwellings in the NEC. That's just how I do it.
S33 Electrical Just want you to be very careful with terms. Especially since you call yourself S33 Electrical. It is receptacle spacing. Receptacles are part of a receptacle outlet but, not part of a light outlet. Correct on amps per receptacle. Commercial not dwelling. Dwelling is minimum circuits required according to square footage. I would never do minimum. If you ever need something explained or NEC explained, I would help you. Respectfully, Kevin. PS, feel free to delete my comments if you so desire.
Jose A Jimenez What's code? Which are you saying is code?
What happened to 80% ?
80 % applies IF you are derating conductors . That is only necessary if you are operating a circuit continually for 3 hours or longer , or you are dealing with a circuit feeding a motor load that is cycled more than five times per hour . Heating circuits should be calculated for derating as needed .
greg berban The 80% you are talking about is the breaker raising for continuous loads. Check your NEC. There is a section that tells you exactly how many receptacles can be installed on different branch circuits. The 1.5 amperes is considered non-continuous, and can be connected up to the 15 or 20 ampere ratings. I'm not saying you should, just that you can.
May I be your friend?
you"ve put 12 devices on one 20 amp breaker with #12 wire. you cant do that. the 1.5 amps per is correct. it comes up to 18. you have to keep it within 80% due to code. which is 10 devices per 20 amp breaker. figure your devices at no more than 10 per 20 amp breaker to stay within code. cant go past 16 amps on a 20 amp breaker with branch circuitry.
This is totally false. The national electric code does not dictate how many receptacles are on a single circuit and the only place it talks about 80% is when it comes to continuous loads
Supar
please check the new syllabus of fire fighting drawing for submission.