Adam Savage's One Day Builds: The Matrix EMP Switch!
Vložit
- čas přidán 3. 05. 2022
- Adam returns to the world of The Matrix to challenge himself with an obscure prop replica project: recreating the Nebuchadnezzar's EMP switch seen and used at the end of the first movie (spoilers!). It's a prop that Adam has not seen anyone else try to recreate before, and he scratch builds his version of it after scouring through screenshots and finding the perfect switches and dials to match what was seen on screen. Let's dive into this deep cut One Day Build!
Adam Savage in Real Time: Weathering the Matrix EMP Switch: • Adam Savage in Real Ti...
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Josh Self
Music by Jinglepunks
Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks:
/ @tested
Tested Ts, stickers, mugs and more: tested-store.com
Subscribe for more videos (and click the bell for notifications): czcams.com/users/subscription_c...
Twitter: / testedcom
Facebook: / testedcom
Instagram: / testedcom
Discord: / discord
Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com/shop/adamsavage...
Savage Industries T-shirts: cottonbureau.com/stores/savag...
Tested is:
Adam Savage / donttrythis
Norman Chan / nchan
Joey Fameli www.joeyfameli.com
Ryan Kiser / ryan.kiser
Josh Self / puppetflesh
Kristen Lomasney / krystynlo
Jen Schachter www.jenschachter.com
Kishore Hari / sciencequiche
Sean Charlesworth / cworthdynamics
Kayte Sabicer / kaytesabicer
Bill Doran / chinbeard
Ariel Waldman / arielwaldman
Darrell Maloney / brokennerd
Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
#AdamSavage #EMP #TheMatrix - Věda a technologie
Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks:
czcams.com/channels/iDJtJKMICpb9B1qf7qjEOA.htmljoin
Tested Ts, stickers, mugs and more: tested-store.com
You could always have tigged the flange together.
The mystery switch may be some type of “Rotary Cam Selector Switch Handle”. Search images of the type show a center screw and some with extended lever knobs which this one may possibly be.
Unable to find the exact kind within about 20 pages deep of search results.
How the fuck are you not uploading a Star Wars video on Star Wars day when YOU WORKED ON STAR WARS?!?!
One thing I would do different is have the big red switch kill the power to the light when you flip it. It is after all supposed to kill all electronics
Does Adam Savage know about the Blade Runner RPG on Kickstarter right now by Free League Publishing?
Adam, if I heard you correctly that switch is rated for 110 volts? DUDE! You need to wire that in as the main switch for your shop lights in the front of the cave. Imagine hitting the EMP on the way home every night... and the lights go out!
if wired in to your lighting, which would be very cool. you should use a motor contactor with a 24/28 VDC coil. the switch should have a replicable bulb/LED. using a low voltage control circuit will keep any inspector happy and you safe.
@@jimnunn9232 A light switch would be the least of his concerns in that cave lol.
This comment needs more thumbs up!!!!
if it was attached to lights, it would need to have DIPs that control SCRs make it flicker then fade off ;)
Moreso to a switchable relay that is linked to the main breaker for safety. The amperage of the entire lighting system in the shop may overload the switch if it was carrying that load alone
"Everything was in whole numbers. 1/2 inch, 5/8, 3/8, that kind of thing." - Adam Savage 2022
Me, who measures in centimeters: 😮
@@SerGlushko Why the face? 5/8 inch is 1.5875 cm, and 3/8 is 0.9525, so easy, you need only 4 decimal digits
@@zetijeti sure thing 😅
Yeah, funny thing... We call those "fractions" in the UK. "Whole numbers" are a completely different thing. 😂
Gotta love those imperial units!
The only change I would do to this, though it's not completely accurate to the movie, would be to get an old camera flash capacitor and wire that in to charge when the cover opened. That steady build up sound as it charges would produce such a perfect complimentary sound effect.
And have the flash bulb discharge when the main switch is thrown... Even if it's hidden in the box, just for the noise alone.. Just for that little extra...
I LOVE where your head's at.
From what I gather it's not the capacitor, it was the charging circuitries in those days that made it noisy... Capacitors in external flash devices have only gotten more powerful in a much smaller form factor but I can't hear my modern flash device charge itself (which, given the stupid amount of power it can draw between 2 full-output flashes happens a lot faster than in the old flash devices), but if I grab my mom's old flash device I hear it immediately.
i was going to comment something similar
@@Dutch3DMaster yes, the coils of the dc/dc converter that converts the battery voltage to the high voltage to charge the capacitor, make these noises. The modern ones have the same noise but you can't here it, because the switching frequency is to high for human ears. Mostly 100khz and more. Old ones are in audio range.
"I'm not that crazy" YOU KNOW HE'S STILL LOOKING FOR THE CORRECT KNOBS.
Tbf I would too.
Hearing Adam actually say "*bandsaw noises*" totally made my day.
Shout out to The Editor; the "oof" on the garbage can miss was noticed & appreciated. Ask Adam for a raise-
...or maybe a cafe mocha on the house.
Regarding toner setting: Check if you have a PAPER WEIGHT settings in your printer profile. Heavier paper weight settings will increase the temperature, OR slow the feed down for that very reason (setting the toner on more heat-resistant substrates).
"I'm gonna weather the crap outta this!" should be a new t-shirt design.
My kids have that on a shirt just above a photo of my face.
@@vitaservo314 You sure it's a photo of your "face?" More of a question for a Mom.
@@vitaservo314 Funny, all of my kid's shirts are clean on the back and weathered on the front.
I like how the imperial units are so internalized that he calls "5/8" a whole number :D .
I don't know if there's anything better than hearing Adam laugh when he's got something right. :D
Ikr love the stuff he makes he probably has the best man cave ever😂
THIS is the sort of One Day Build I love the most. Really niche, nerdy, unapologetically enthusiastic
That turned out so cool!
the knob you were looking for and had to make, it looks a lot like the tip of the knob from an air pressure regulator.
Next time you need specific knobs, search for replacements for recording consoles or guitar pedals. There are many different styles but those are fairly common in that world.
I was also thinking of something in that direction, but more like amps rather than pedals.
Yup, I was thinking they were the exact dials from my 1990 Trace amp.
The whole box kinda looks like a guitar effects pedal!
They reminded me of the knobs on Boss and DOD pedals from the late 80’s/early 90’s. Then I realized every console manufacturer has their own style too so you can find almost anything in many different sizes and colors going the audio gear route.
Site like aliexpress do replicas of all the major ones, at a fraction of the price.
I just finished building a 1/3 scale Marshall stack (which sounds incredible!)
The fluted knob you made looks a lot like a gas appliance pilot/on/off knob. Like from a water heater or furnace.
Hi Adam, printer technician here (for a number of brands). Outright heat isn't the primary culprit here - time in the heat is.
Changing the paper type settings has more of an effect than people think. Thick 2 / Glossy not only adjusts the heat, it also slows the paper feed speed down. This means that there is more time for the sheet you're printing on (and thus the toner) to come up to fusing temp. Flash-fusing can be useful, but relying on that is not ideal (think low-n-slow vs searing).
For the best results, you'd be best to look at a printer that has better paper type options. Brother often has good options for this, as do Ricoh/Lanier/Gestetner. Oki aren't bad, but sometimes their colour matching isn't the best.
If you're just after a printer, I'd suggest something like a Ricoh SPC352 or a P C600. Both support up to 220gsm stock, have decent warm up times, and print at 1200x1200 dpi (so nice and crisp images). For Brother, I'd go with something like the HL-L3210CW. I don't get many of the HL series machines back in for repairs - we sell them, then often don't see them for ages. They're bloody reliable.
Does your printer driver have an option for printing on "thick" paper?
Most laser printers I've met has that option, and it slows down the fusing process and raises the heat a little to make sure the paper and toner is adequately heated.
Some kind "Cardstock" is the setting you are looking for in the printer driver for paper type. Good printers will have even different weight paper stock to choose from. Some sticky paper companies say use Label setting but that is often not enough for sticker paper like this. On my HP it is under Finishing and then Media Type and I choose Card Glossy 176g-200g.
Print settings for sure. I have an old Dell 1660 and it doesn't embed into the emulsion unless I have the settings right. Right paper right output settings and a warm printer.
Agreed need to set it for 110-150gm paper and it will print much slower and will set better.
I was just watching the Matrix: Reloaded, and noticed the EMP button featured on the operator's chair of the Nebuchadnezzar at 1:22:25. The knob/button on the front left hand corner of the box appears to be more like a full on handle that you could grab on to and turn. The prop could've totally been built different for each movie and each ship even. That's just something I noticed about this particular EMP button in Reloaded.
Really wish Adam would do a multi-month build of the self destruct station from the Nostromo. Yes, I'm aware it's an amalgamation of separate props pieced together on screen through the magic of editing, but the idea of making a representation of it as a singlular object would be so epic. And the fact that it could be made as an object that lives in a container/box seems to speak to one of Adam's favorite concepts. And the opportunities for incorporating sound, lighting, animated parts and ridiculous deep diving on the graphics would make it a master-class level build.
Awesome build. I remember visiting the movie museum at WB years ago shortly following the release of The Dark Knight Rises. All the Batman props were there and I was stunned at how shotty they looked in person (Joker’s suit was the exception, the tiny little squares within each of the hexagonal tesselations were individually stitched, when Joker said “this suit wasn’t cheap”, he wasn’t joking. That was fine European fabrication), the Harry Potter props were just okay but the Matrix props and the Watchmen movie props were insane. Particularly the Matrix. The level of detail was extraordinary. They looked genuinely futuristic and naturally worn. Super intricate with tiny facets a camera with a telephoto lens wouldn’t even appreciate. It was exceptionally crafted, and how fitting; for a film that was so transformative to the industry, to VFX, to sci fi genre, fight choreography, culture and more. Excellent work, Adam
If I'm not mistaking, due to some of the effects used in it, it was a movie shot in a higher resolution than previously was common, which does not allow for fixing things with light and the simple fact the camera or the displaying device can't make out more detail anyway.
It's surprising how much light, camera angles and distances away from props can do to their realism.
*shoddy
@@habeeb102 👍
Did they have the bug extractor device?
@@HonkeyKong54 I can’t remember, I think they did
I actually like the "rub off" issue with the stickers, for this reason: You can print them, cut them, put them on, then rub them a bit to add "weathering," then seal it with a clear-coat to lock it in.
I was thinking the same thing, it looked perfect for adding wear and tear!
Some kind "Cardstock" is the setting you are looking for in the printer driver for paper type. Good printers will have even different weight paper stock to choose from. Some sticky paper companies say use Label setting but that is often not enough for sticker paper like this. On my HP it is under Finishing and then Media Type and I choose Card Glossy 176g-200g. It makes the printer fuse at a slower speed so the toner gets warming and sticks better.
I was thinking he should’ve used his Cricut to cut out a stencil and then paint the stripes
@@theloneviking9145I absolutely hoped for painted stripes.. Because who wants to see the layer of the sticker paper? Still turned out great though.
@@MrRbabs look at the source material and you can clearly see it is *supposed* to have raised edges where the stripes are a clear printed sticker added after the lid has been moulded
No matter what Adam is building I always love the final product but I think I enjoy watching the thought process more.
Use your hot air gun to fully set partially set laser toner. Also an improvement would be to print the EMP and red strips on clear in reverse and apply to the inside of the clear dome. That way the toner won't move around and the stickers won't come lose from handling. I would also use a red LED to light the switch so you don't get the yellow center halo on video. BTW, burnt-sienna or sienna in an acrylic glaze makes a great aging/weathering effect that has a more organic look to it.
Omigosh been commenting this exact same thing, not knowing someone else posted. Great minds think alike!
I love weathering, it's so satisfying.
As far as I know, the main component in this piece was from an old submarine. Most of the switches/instruments on the ship/ships were purchased from a navy auction. After completion of filming Reloaded & Revolutions, many of these components were offloaded to Shad in Sydney, and still pop up in the odd film/TV production.
My thoughts exactly, I can recall seeing this knob on an old submarine I trained on, SSBN-635 Sam Rayburn
Shad in Sydney? Shadiversity? I thought he was in Victoria?
I bet Adam’s friends and family get some REALLY cool gifts!
Confirmed.
I think the rotary knobs you're looking for are Intellijel black knobs by Selco. They have no angle on the step, the caps are replaceable and available separately and come in 2 sizes.
That "notcher" tool is also often referred to as a nibbler and is not just an electronics tool. They are frequently used in a variety of sheet metal work. I also like that particular style. I learned to used them about 30 years ago in A&P school and was delighted to find a set at a surplus auction a few years later. Still use them on a regular basis.
He actually does refer to it as a nibbler in the cutaway before he starts talking about it
I feel like activating the EMP knob should kill the light in the switch, since, you know, EMP.
I was thinking something similar
It's not an electronic device, it is an analog electrical device, so EMP won't hurt it. Unironically, the build has no electronics in it :)
Technically, when they shut the systems down to escape the squids, the light stays on, if I remember correctly, which implies that that circuit is unaffected by the EMP...
Turning off would feel like it does something. Could even be timed to turn back on.
@@petertrast I thought EMP kills batteries?
I am four minutes into this video, and if it doesn't end with Adam 'activating' the EMP and knocking out the camera you've missed an opportunity.
Another ridiculously enthusiastic experience 👌 I've watched nothing but ODB & general tested stuff for pretty much a week now & it never gets old.
Also never fails to amaze me how much a dirty wash paint job ties everything together at the last second & makes the whole thing pop.
Never not gold 👌
this choice of prop suits the format of this show very well, the small start to finish + detailing projects are satisfying to watch.
Swap those screws holding the knobs for potentiometers. You’ll actually be able to turn the knobs.
Shoutout to the editor who tinted the "first attempt" shot in green a la the matrix (and classic cinema storytelling of showing things in green light that are unnatural or off).
😁
That little vacuform is really neat.
The button looks awesome!! I just "rediscovered" this channel and have been binging all the one day builds I missed since nearly two years, really great stuff
Its amazing how many engineering went into "box with a switch" :D ... it looked so simple at start ... wow
yeah ... there is an amazing amount of complexity in such a deceptively simple prop.
(then again : why the heck would they need knobs on an EMP button? ... 'cause it looked more cool and interesting that way ?)
@@NotTheStinkyCheese probably some scifi semi-nonsense like "frequency modulation" :D
This was so perfectly niche-but-not-elitist and an absolute delight. Thank you.
As always, excellent video. It’s always a joy to watch you work. You’re a genuine and passionate builder. Thanks for keeping it real! 👍
It is always fun to watch you make stuff. It is truly an inspiration to watch you make or remake stuff for the camera.
Adam, love the EMP box build, very cool. I was a little sad that you didn’t make it more functional. A light switch for the shop, or to turn on a tool or a power strip would be awesome
Can I just appreciate that the flashback to the first intro attempt was tinted green?
Glad someone noticed 😉
Adam, Man! You Nailed Those Sentinels with the one! Knocked out of the Ballpark!! Amazing!
Very nice build Adam! I love it when it's done from scratch! 😍😍😍
I love that Adam watches The Matrix often. It my favorite movie of all time! 😁
Adam, I’ve recently been working with clear laser printer paper, water slide. I had the same issue. first i would heat up the printer and print one sheet on plain paper. then I would set it to high quality, and set the printer to “label” setting. that made every print then perfect 👍🏻 give it a try next time
Also after your print, before you cut it out. seal it in with a clear spray paint. locks those colors in perfectly.
Water slide is the truth. I'll never go back to label paper. I also use water slide decal set solution I used for my scale models. Dissolves the substrait and leaves the art. So dope. Clear over that, it's basically silkscreen.
Your skill and experience are both really on display here. There are so many points in the video where I thought, “damn even if I had all the right tools, that’s gonna be tricky to get it just how I’d want it,” and you seemed to nail it the first try, every time. Great display of knowledge and experience man!
Hi Adam, just as you, I'm always short of a hand when dealing with the vacuum former, so I added a footswitch to power the fan. It works like a charm!
Just a thought, If the light is a "EMP fully charged" light then you should wire in the contact for the turning knob in series with the light.
So when you turn it the light goes off. since it is now discharged.
Adam, I work for a company that sells commercial copiers/printers. I am a certified HP technician as well. With that being said.... look at the HP Managed E876 series. It is offered in 40, 50 & 60 ppm configurations and is a color unit. You will not be disappointed.
I concur as another certified HD technician the E876 should do what you want and the reason when you look for "large format printer" your not getting laser printer is that is plotter/poster territory they use ink 11x17 is tabloid-style paper which is sold as A3/copier
he asked for a consumer grade printer.. any thoughts on that line?
@@sodapopjenkins you will not find a consumer grade printer that will handle large format. The consumer grade models are made for standard format.
@@jonz01 didnt catch the large format requirement... thanks for the reply
Thanks Adam, I was extremely happy all the while watching you create yet another masterpiece.
Love this one, one of my favorite builds you've done Adam! Also I would LOVE to see you do replicas of more Matrix stuff!!!
✌🏼 Love the One Day Builds!
For components like the red stripe stickers on the vacuform piece, consider the Cricut ( Pronounced CREE-CUT). It's basically like a CNC that does bladed cutting. It can cut out shapes like the pattern you want, then you can then transfer to it to the surface like a window decal using transfer paper. it can also be used to make stencils that you can paint the pattern through.
I think it's pronounced like "cricket"
@@MattBlank0 I reject your reality and substitute my own
I like your point about being an explorer and getting jazzed about making something that no one's ever made before. I am very compelled to only make props that no one else seems to notice.
That transition at 25:25.... Might be one of the smoothest things I've seen video wise on CZcams, bravo video editor, bravo!
🙏🏼
For decals like these I usually go for transparent water slide transfer paper, just print it with any laser printer or inkjet (need to use lacquer over top to prevent the ink from running in the water). Then just cut them out, dunk them in water and you apply then like the decals that come with any store bought model kit.
Thought the same thing! Old school plastic model building decals!
Also, I'm questioning why Adam didn't print everything in reverse and then adhere the stickers to the INSIDE if the dome. 🤔🤷🏻♂️
After watching several of your videos, I've developed a new appreciation for the people in my life that stop me from doing this kind of thing.
Really enjoyed this build. Learning something new each time. Thanks Adam 😊
To prevent clouding from glue on clear parts.. like model canopies, etc
soak the parts in "Pledge Revive it"
Makes the plastic look more like real glass, wont fog with glue vapor. I even used it on the resin water for a diorama I made. Try it!!
How long do you soak the parts before gluing? Do you use any other prep methods before using the clear materials?
@@ColonelSkills I dip it long enough to ensure coverage. So not long.. maybe a minute or so. Make sure it's clean.. no dust or fingerprints or that stuff will get sealed in. Let it dry for a few minutes and I dip a second time which may not be necessary but I do. Then let it sit for about 20 to 30 minutes as the bottle states.. then it's solid.. doesn't rub off or anything. Its like it becomes part of the plastic. Great stuff and makes it look more like glass than clear plastic.
@@jeffallen3598 awesome, thank you. I will give that a shot next time I am doing cockpits. Much obliged.
Great project as always, but you had me laughing out loud how you used the “helper” for the vacuum forming. Mostly because stuff like that happens to me as well, great plans but chaotic execution.
You truly are awesome!! The way you react to your build… the same way I do!! Imagining the finished project with sounds and expressions, fantastic!!!! Thank you for all that!!
I worked for a major printing and packaging company for 16 years, and now I run my own small printing company. I used and maintained 3 different 11x17 color laser printers. Xerox, Ricoh, and HP. The Ricoh was my favorite for cost and production printing a standard paper stock. The Xerox did well but it would cost over $25000 in toner a year. Now understand we would do about 190,000++ pages in a year. These machines are beasts though, they have a large footprint and usually way over 150lbs, however this can replace your current laser printer so it will not just be specialized to large prints. The Ricoh had the highest resolution a few years ago. Compare these Ricoh SP C840DN, HP CP5225n, and Xerox VersaLink C8000. There is also another option which may interest you. There are few (Xerox makes one) color lasers that also include white toner. These are primarily for used in transfer prints for clothes. This could be a good asset to give extra dimension to what you want to create especially on clear transfer or colored media. The Xerox C8000W has this option, however it almost doubles the cost.
Adam, Love your builds, such an awesome project. The numbered switch looks alot like the older C&K Series 3 Thumbwheel switche. It looks like a single switch was used with side plates. hope this helps, Cheers Simon
Looks awsome.. Would be cool if there was a small sound box that made the emp "swosh" when you turn the switch.. =)
id like to see it maybe vibrate too to simulate a burst or get crazy and have the knobs do things like volume, select sound on/off and switch modes. then add a speaker and put in sound effects and maybe funny sound clips from the movies.
I lost my meagre but fantastic workshop in a messy divorce, I used to sit and make and create and weld and solder and lathe and drill and glue and spray and chop and listen to the radio and just sit whilst my dog lay on his blanket......my wife was jealous and kicked me out and I lost it, even the dog....I now relive my creation lust through your work......thank you.
This is amazing. The first time I have seen this replicated. I truly think you are the first to do it:).
The attention to detail makes it worth it.
Hi. Once when you were leading us through your cave years ago, I saw a NEBUCHADNEZAR sign. please tell us the story behind it. is it the original ?
Greetings from Germany
What a delightful and inspiring One Day Build!
Hey Adam! Pro tip from your friendly neighbourhood print guy....When you load your paper the printer will usually ask what kind of paper you are loading. If you set the paper type to a heavier weight paper like a thicker photo paper or something similar, then the printer will either up the fuser temperature or feed the paper through slower. 👍
"Whole numbers" like 1/2, 5/8, 3/8.
Obviously I know what he means, and as a hobby machinist and fabricator myself I totally get it, but it's funny to call 3/8 a whole number.
The perks of the imperial measurement system.
@@pauloalvesdesouza7911 You can use fractions with metric as well.
When I'm printing stuff too thick for the printer I cover the fresh print with baking parchment and iron it. But it looked to me like you had toner sticking to the fuser roller which is a whole other thing.
With such love and infectious enthusiasm for what you do and achieve, “Retirement” is a meaningless word - it will never happen for you in the “true sense”. 👍👍👍😀😀😀
That knob you had to make looks like one from a classic Coleman propane stove!!!
Tonight's News Headlines ... "San Fransisco experiences mysterious power outage"
Question for Adam: Have you ever built a replica and then been in contact with the original creator or creation? I would think that, of all the makers, Adam would have the most contacts for such a scenario. Love the Matrix. Love the build.
I was thinking the same, also if I was the prop master I'd send him the original if I had it, so he could compare
Yes he did Terry English and excalibur was one of them look it up on here he took his sword over and they put them side by side
there's a few props he's built where he's either iterated or built completely new versions of the prop once he had better/additional reference material. Luke's Lightsaber comes to mind, also believe there's multiple blasters in this category.
If you check out the video for the Inglorious Basterds knife build, the original prop-maker that built the knife for the movie is the top comment.
The little "3 counter" @42:40 is a "BCD Pushwheel Switch" available at a lot electronics suppliers in different sizes and button styles
I'm a sign artist and we print on vinyl self adhesive substrates for outdoor use. We print the pump labels for Buc-ee's gas pumps.
The laser printer we use is called the Gerber Edge. They are pricey and very proprietary, but if you do volume work, they are worth those hassles.
Are you ever tempted to add a real utility to a prop replica like that ?
Like link it to your electric garage door and use it to open it or something ?
I know it would complicate the build a lot but it would be so cool to have prop replicas actually doing something in your home !
A quick fix we found for ensuring the setting of toner for clear prints and transfer prints is to run the sheet through a laminator after printing; we just run the sheet through the laminator, set at 10 mil, with a sheet of paper covering it, and haven’t had any issues with label/transfer prints degrading. A lot of printers can be tweaked regarding setting temp and duration; we’ve had good luck with HP MFCs but still get some piece of mind with the laminator.
Love these builds so entertaining, thank you 🧰🪛🔧🔨🪚🔩🔌
Adam what a brilliant video , your attention to detail is phenomenal , i am so impressed , fantastic job .
Great build, butI'm dissapointed that they didn't kill the video when Adam tested the switch.
You can always tell the difference between an experienced maker/engineer and a beginner or an artist (artsy artist). Those whole numbers, standardized parts and same sized fasteners, etc. I love my CRKT knives design by Carson, but after having to CAD one up for a class I was able to fully comprehend what the professors had been saying about design and manufacturing. There is a special place in hell for Carson and which ever poor bastards that had to figure out how to mass produce his designs should be lauded as a heroes.
after working in manufacturing for a while now my first thought is to always take a look and figure out how it was manufactured lol, you get an eye for clever manufacturing hacks after a while.
I love having your videos on while I craft! makes me feel like we're doing our own projects in the shop together haha loved the deep cut, will always love the matrix- amazingly cool work as always!!
Best one day build in awhile!!!!
Wouldn't it have been a cool edit, if he didn't throw the switch till the end of the video and when he tried it for the first time, the video went dark as if the EMP really worked?
12:20 the imperial measurement system in a nutshell...
"Everything is in WHOLE numbers"
*starts naming fractions*
Lmao, just use metric ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I'm glad I'm not the only person who watches the Matrix frequently.
More of this please !!!! I love the deep cut props!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My fav!
At 16:36 I watched Adam use a step drill bit. This is a great tool especially for drilling into thin sheet metal. During the drilling you see Adam check the size of the hole which is printed on the inside of bit. It's impossible to see the step size while drilling and you DON'T want to drill one step too big. So I use a black marker to mark the outside of the particular step I want. Voila, now it's very easy to see. My $0.02.
1/8“, 3/8“ are supposed to be whole numbers? 😂
The metric system (SI) does not have to mess with that.
They are not whole numbers. And the 1/2" circle template he used to make a 1/2" radius actually gave him a 1/4" radius.
@@agentspooky77 Yes :) that's what I said: at 12:19 Adam is saying "...everything was in whole numbers. Half inch, 5/8s." That are fractions, not whole numbers. For me who grew up with the metric system, I can never get my head around the imperial system.
Nevertheless, I just love Adam's builds and his enthusiasm - they inspire me to try my own teeny, feeble builds!
I said "bless you" to the sneeze...cracked me up you thought to say "thank you"!
Love the return to propmaking in the ODBs!
i dont think the dials are 100% perfect because the markings in the picture dont reach across the full radius; maybe the manufacture changed the markings? its close and im super surprised you found some that are near identical, keep up the good work!
Also, they don't have the little dot at the center. Fail 👎
(JK 😁👍)
@@M_Northstar I thought the dots we part of it too, but its paint
@@MrTinyLlama I stand corrected. Good eye 👍
I love the Matrix, the new one is great too. I don't understand the hate towards it, it's similar to the first where it's more about the story rather than the special effects.
I agree. It wasn't perfect, but it was still a decent sequel. I enjoyed it and my first viewing was a lot of fun.
The main thing that annoys me is the lack of Morpheus (I know he canonically died but hey so did Neo and Trinity).
I really enjoyed the music during the time lapse in this episode. Great video as always :)
The joy this man gets from just doing what he loves is such a joy to witness.❤❤
It's really amazing that Adam thinks the fractions 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" are "whole numbers." They aren't! They're fractions and it's a giant reason that using Imperial measurements are DUMB. Convert to metric people! Then he really would be talking in whole numbers. 12mm, 6mm, 3mm. Or the even more even and round numbers of 10mm, 5mm, and 2.5 mm because counting in tens is the natural way for humans to count.
Americans using Imperial is just stubbornness at this point. If the Nebuchadnezzar was built in Imperial the machines deserve to win.
We use the metric system pretty much exclusively at my job but then you get this one random tool or part that ONLY comes measured in inches. Throws you off bad!
I think a large percentage of Americans would be happy to change over, but the entire country is based on imperial units. Tools and materials are far, far more readily available in imperial units than metric. It's super easy to find a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel. It's not nearly as easy to find a 6mm piece. Until the supply chain commits to the change, consumers don't have a chance. In reality if you're any kind of decent maker, it doesn't matter if you're using imperial or metric. Just convert as needed. It's basic math.
It’s still frustrating to see someone slog through 0.49274727 inches trying to be “super precise”.
@@phantomsmithy because 12.51578066 mm is so much easier?
AWESOME BUILD! Love it.